@ awesome man I got to work on building my RUclips channel I relate a lot to you since I also am a stay at home day I’m having my second babygirl this month and watching your video where you talked about doing that and leather really inspired me again to get back into it and put in work . Appreciate sharing your knowledge for free for everyone wish you Goodluck and a lot of business .
I tried making something like this out of thinner oil tan leather and it always ends up looking like a Christmas stocking and doesn't really work. I'm going to give it another try with some veg-tan. Where you mention skiving the toe for better closure before sewing, I think it would look nice to stop the shearling just short of the toe, so it does close up nice and flat and then slick the toe for a nice look. Should look like the closed edge of a knife sheath. Great instructional video and great idea! Thanks!!
Your work is always impressive. Can I ask why do you use a taper maul and what weight is it? I have been using a round maul and thinking about going to a taper maul. Thanks
I use a 16oz maul for all of my tooling. I’d be lying if I said I use it for any other reason than I just thought it looked cooler when I bought it a few years ago 😂
It's funny how someone can look at a finished product and see great work, but if you ask the person who did the job, they can see the mistakes. It's all good, but that's how we strive to be better.
I always know where the skeletons are hidden on my projects lol, it’s just part of being hand made. Exactly right though, as long as we learn from it then that’s how we grow! I appreciate it!
Hey there! Love your work! I have a question but it doesn’t pertain to this video but antique finish. Did you use an antique finish one time that wasn’t Fiebrings? I’ve used Fiebrings dark brown on basket weave before, but it gives it a dirtier look. Don’t get me wrong it still looks good but not as clean as your work. Any pointers on what to use on basket weave stamp? Thanks!
I’ve used other products before but all I use anymore is the Fiebings paste. Geometric patterns can be challenging to keep a perfectly clean look, especially on large scale layouts. Any little deviation on the burnish mark that the tool leaves from inconsistent striking pressure can alter the coloration some when antiquing. Since every little stamp is individual, it’s easier to spot any variances from one to another. The leather is never perfect either and any little imperfection on the hide can alter the color some as well. I’d recommend just trying to keep the depth of each tool mark as consistent as possible and making sure when you antique to not let any build up occur in any one spot that could potentially stand out. I hope that helps!
Exactly what I’ve been wanting to make handmade golf club covers !
They’re a fun project, I’ve got a few more ideas I’d like to work on sometime soon!
@ awesome man I got to work on building my RUclips channel I relate a lot to you since I also am a stay at home day I’m having my second babygirl this month and watching your video where you talked about doing that and leather really inspired me again to get back into it and put in work . Appreciate sharing your knowledge for free for everyone wish you Goodluck and a lot of business .
@ I want to make some too for my clubs .
Love the colours
Thank you!
Great Master ,you are my inspiration
I really appreciate your support!!
What. Great gift ideas for Christmas
Good to see you've been puttering around
Thanks John! Haha yeah, I’ve been doing what I can!
Is an show see your passion in the worker
I tried making something like this out of thinner oil tan leather and it always ends up looking like a Christmas stocking and doesn't really work. I'm going to give it another try with some veg-tan. Where you mention skiving the toe for better closure before sewing, I think it would look nice to stop the shearling just short of the toe, so it does close up nice and flat and then slick the toe for a nice look. Should look like the closed edge of a knife sheath. Great instructional video and great idea! Thanks!!
I might try that out on one, I like that! Thank you so much!
Your work is very inspiring. Keep it up. Could you cover your needle and thread when using your sewing machine? Thank you!
Thank you! I used a size 22 needle and 138 bonded nylon thread. I tried to mention it in the video but it was probably hard to hear, sorry about that!
Your work is always impressive. Can I ask why do you use a taper maul and what weight is it? I have been using a round maul and thinking about going to a taper maul. Thanks
I use a 16oz maul for all of my tooling. I’d be lying if I said I use it for any other reason than I just thought it looked cooler when I bought it a few years ago 😂
It's funny how someone can look at a finished product and see great work, but if you ask the person who did the job, they can see the mistakes. It's all good, but that's how we strive to be better.
I always know where the skeletons are hidden on my projects lol, it’s just part of being hand made. Exactly right though, as long as we learn from it then that’s how we grow! I appreciate it!
Hey there! Love your work! I have a question but it doesn’t pertain to this video but antique finish. Did you use an antique finish one time that wasn’t Fiebrings? I’ve used Fiebrings dark brown on basket weave before, but it gives it a dirtier look. Don’t get me wrong it still looks good but not as clean as your work. Any pointers on what to use on basket weave stamp? Thanks!
I’ve used other products before but all I use anymore is the Fiebings paste. Geometric patterns can be challenging to keep a perfectly clean look, especially on large scale layouts. Any little deviation on the burnish mark that the tool leaves from inconsistent striking pressure can alter the coloration some when antiquing. Since every little stamp is individual, it’s easier to spot any variances from one to another. The leather is never perfect either and any little imperfection on the hide can alter the color some as well. I’d recommend just trying to keep the depth of each tool mark as consistent as possible and making sure when you antique to not let any build up occur in any one spot that could potentially stand out. I hope that helps!
@ sounds good! Thank you so much for the reply!! Definitely helps!!