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It depends on the leather thickness, tools, and the look you are trying to get out of the design. You start to develop a feel for how hard to strike each tool as you gain experience. You obviously would not want to penetrate completely through the leather but some tools could easily do so.

Thank you!

Appreciate it! I was working on a few belts at the same time, so all the dust on me was a bit dramatized for this video lol. But very accurate to how it always ends up!

I like that idea, thank you!

@@Girtyleathercono worries. I bet you could sell them too. I bet carpenters would appreciate a non-glove knuckle protection that doesn’t impact dexterity.

Generally 9/10oz main body and 3/4oz liner

I just use another piece of natural veg tan but I’ve seen people use all kinds of stuff honestly

If you check out the full length video I have over them, everything is listed in the description and the video covers it all in depth

@Girtyleatherco thank u

I’ve got the polished side covered with stickers and that was not the best idea lol. They got in the way more than I anticipated and I just haven’t taken the time to peel them off and clean it up. I’m still booked up with work but I ended up taking less “Christmas specific” orders than usual this year. I wanted to spend a little more time making videos and not be as stressed as I have been in the past with deadlines. It’s not financially smart lol but I honestly enjoy the process of trying to create content. These videos are my little side projects and I try to put as much as I can into them.

@Girtyleatherco I tried making a video on a snapping turtle tail inlaid holster. Seems I don't know what I'm doing with video. The lighting was all wrong, camera placement, angle... it just didn't come out like I was planning so it never got past me just recording the process haha. But I can take excellent pictures. Go figure. If I could do videos alongside my leather work, I would also cut back on orders to make videos. The exposure alone will pay for the lost orders.

I don’t have much experience with that so it’s hard to say. I’d like to think the 26 would be fine unless you just needed a large throat on the machine to fit the item through. I sew two pieces of 9/10oz leather together on mine fairly often, so it’s strong enough for somewhat thicker material.

Thank you!

This was one of my very first videos, only my second time talking on camera as well. I’ve been slowly learning and progressing as I can.

I’ve been tooling leather for coming up on 4 years now. Outside of a few RUclips videos and some books, I’m all self taught. I’d like to take some classes one day, but I haven’t up to this point. I try to share my experiences as best as I can on my channel to help out some. There are many other great makers that teach and put on classes. Tons of books out there too.

It measures both in ounces and mm, the outside number is oz and the red lines are mm.

It’s just two pieces of leather sewn together with metal BB’s inside

I watched a few RUclips videos when I first started and I’ve studied books but I’ve never taken any classes or anything, yet. I’d love to still. But I guess, mostly self-taught. There’s some great makers out there creating videos and providing in-person courses. It just takes a lot of time actually tooling to hone in all the skills get comfortable with it.

Got the scars to prove it 😂

@ oh dag, I thought you were being facetious 😆

Prolly needs 🍸

I’ve just always been like that 😂 I’m sure the caffeine was hitting pretty hard too

@Girtyleatherco ohh okay as long as you all good take it easy , I also have sumn similar but mine is less

I’ve used other products before but all I use anymore is the Fiebings paste. Geometric patterns can be challenging to keep a perfectly clean look, especially on large scale layouts. Any little deviation on the burnish mark that the tool leaves from inconsistent striking pressure can alter the coloration some when antiquing. Since every little stamp is individual, it’s easier to spot any variances from one to another. The leather is never perfect either and any little imperfection on the hide can alter the color some as well. I’d recommend just trying to keep the depth of each tool mark as consistent as possible and making sure when you antique to not let any build up occur in any one spot that could potentially stand out. I hope that helps!

@ sounds good! Thank you so much for the reply!! Definitely helps!!

If you don’t care to send me an email, I’d be more than happy to further discuss!

Done.

My base price on belts is $100 USD. Whether someone believes they are “worth” that or not is completely up to them. I’m a solo maker, married with children, with every single aspect of this business falling on me. I know what I have in my belts and I’m confident in the products I make with my hands. I know for a fact in my eyes they are worth that, based on my own experience using my products over the years. I make all my belts double layered with Hermann Oak full grain veg tan, which in itself is a more expensive leather being that it is tanned in the USA. On that same note, my personal labor cost is probably a lot more than someone in other countries that companies use to make those cheaper belts as well. There’s plenty of options out there for quality belts at whatever price someone is willing to spend. But my price is my price and anyone who has purchased something from me knows that I put my best foot forward to go above and beyond to provide as good a product and service as I can. The only competition I’m in is with myself, I have no hate towards anyone else doing it however they want.

I use a 16oz maul for all of my tooling. I’d be lying if I said I use it for any other reason than I just thought it looked cooler when I bought it a few years ago 😂