Thanks for your time in making this video. I tried this product and echo many of the uploader's comments on my walnut rocker. I sand to 400 or even 600. The higher grits honestly do not take much time. I apply it liberally, rub it in with a rag to even out the application, and let it sit for just a few minutes, like 3-4 minutes, and then start wiping it off. This stuff will ooze out of pores and joints, so wipe all of it off, every drop. Then wait 30 minutes and wipe it off again. Then wait 30 minutes and wipe it off again. Then wait another 30 minutes and wipe it off again. You will be surprised how much it oozes out even an hour later. Let dry until it no longer smells, which could be a day or two or even a week. Then reapply, but it will not soak in as much, but still wipe it down multiple times. The second coat dries much faster, usually a day or two. I go with four coats. I've never tried the oil/wax product only the poly/oil product.
I love this finish, it's got a smooth warmth to it, and I agree about not wanting a plastic look. What would you recommend to get a similar finish but on a table top that will likely encounter moisture?
unfortunately, I would not recommend this finish for a table where moisture is present. You have to use a polyurethane. The more coats the more protection you get. The only other option is if you want a glossy or matte finish. Most brands of poly are available in either finish. I would opt for a thinner finish and allow the scrapes and watermarks to simply add character and patina to a piece.
I used a small handheld router with roundover bit. This is easier with such thick boards like I use here. That left a missed area on the inside corners that I feathered with the random orbit sander when I sanded. I used a soft foam pad on my sander and then put a fine mesh sandpaper on the foam pad .... this made sanding the rounded edges much easier and seamless. Most importantly.. sand in many passes until you get to 400 grit. 320 won't do and more than 400 is unnecessary. This finish looks amazing with many thin coats on top of 400 grit sanding. patience pays off. The bookcases still look amazing today over 6 years later. I also love the really thick boards... Absolutely no bowing ...even with many heavy books on the shelves. I hate bookcases with thin shelves that sag over time.
@@sasuke671 I did not buff or sand between coats. I just wiped on and then wiped off excess .. which made a very thin coating and did this maybe 3-4 times in a day. Just be careful to watch out for dust settling on the surface.
I have to tell'ya. Your videos got me into purchasing and using Sam Maloof's products. I've found that the combination of Maloof's Poly/Oil and General Finish's Semi-Gloss worked best for my application when finishing Walnut. Note: Not actually combining the two together but using Maloof first and then applying General Finish as a final coat. Thanks so much for the inspiration.
thank god i came across this video. I was recommended varnish for my walnut, and was extremely hesitant in applying it because i do not want a plasticy feel/look.
It does require many applications and patience, but I think it is the most beautiful finish. Update: My bookcases are 5 years older and still look as good as the day I applied the finish. Just don't put a sweaty beer can or glass on the surface. The finish is relatively thin compared to varnishes and polys.
@@panofishI think for my piece (bedside lamp/tray) I would prefer to have a more beautiful, tactile finish and trade off some durability since it wont have much wear. I cant seem to find sam maloof in Canada, would you say that General Arm R Seal has almost the same appearance? thanks for the reply!
@@SH-kh4bq Check rockler .. do they ship to Canada? Arm R Seal is an excellent finish, but in my opinion it is more of a poly urethane finish and thicker and much more difficult to get a smooth close to the wood finish. The maloof finish is a 3 part mix of one-third linseed oil, one-third raw tung oil, and one-third semigloss urethane varnish. It goes on much more oily and thinner each coat. I think it enhances the look of the wood and adds a nice sheen. Arm R Seal will give you a more protective, durable, thicker, visible finish.
@@SH-kh4bq Sorry, I don't know of any other finish that is similar to the Maloof finish. There probably is something out there, but I don't know of it. You could try mixing your own version according to the 3 part formula or you could ask the same question on one of the popular woodworking forums.
For absolute durability the thickest polyurethane with the most solids that I love is epifanes varnish. You can get it through amazon. It's not cheap, but it is a great thick film finish which offers the best protection.
@@mick2spic Epifanes is thick and you can get it in glossy (no silica) or matte (fine silica), but in either case it will self level and look very smooth (like honey) ... just make sure the place your are letting it dry in ... doesn't have dust in the air ... .that will settle on the finish while it its drying..
@@panofish One other question if I may Panofish: with the Maloof’s oil poly, have you needed to make any repairs to a small defect years later on a piece? Like have you tried just using some more Maloof’s to one spot and seen how it blends? Wondering how well a repair spot might blend in, but I imagine it’ll be very hard to get it matching exactly without re-doing an entire piece. Thank you for any info you may have with that.
thks- I just built a maloof inspired rocking chair and am about to put this finish on it.It is sanded to 220 right now.....glad I watched this....bring it to 400 thks again!
Greetings from Kentucky. I've been a hobby blacksmith for 5 years or so. An old timer blacksmith told me a long time ago superglue is actually a great finish for small projects, like wooden knife handles. I've found it works great. Rub it on by hand, dry. Sand it with 800 grit, reapply, dry, lightly sand with 1000 grit, then polish with a dremel with the fine red polishing compound. Viola, a very pretty and durable finish that really brings out the wood. edit: important, Crazy Glue brand is the only kind to use for this. I've tried others but they get foggy, but crazyglue gets a glass-like shine and transparency.
Hello PanoFish. I know you published this years ago, but what about with pine? Would you give the pine a light seal first then apply this finish? Thank you for your video.
Very nice 👍. Do you feel this would be a good finish for a walnut gun stock? I prefer the sanded in finish with the pours filled do you think this work for a sanded in finish? Also should it give good protection and would I need to reapply for maintenance? Thanks for sharing
It would look just as nice or nicer with a pore filled finish. The durability should be ok because it contains poly with the oils. Just a lot of fine coats and you must start sand to 400 or better before you coat.
@@panofish If I sand to 400 should I still sand in the first few coats? Also should I cut the first few coats 50/50 ? Then finish with light coats and lightly buff in between? Thanks
@@brianlee6849 I don't know how that might affect the result. I didn't. I sanded to 400... then gradually applied many thin wiping coats over time. I was careful to avoid allowing dust to settle into the finish and I would wipe off any excess. Just keep applying many many coats. It took a while before the finish developed a consistent sheen.
I know I may be stepping on a lot of toes here but here goes!!! If the piece of furniture or object will never come in contact with moisture a oil wax finish like you favor such as the Maloof finish works well, however in my case I spent considerable time making a kitchen table from two wide boards of cherry , approx. 14" wide ,and two curly maple boards ( along the edge ) which produced a table about 40" wide and about 6 feet in length. I knew this table would be used every day ,and wiped with a damp cloth after each meal! So I chose polyurethane for my finish. The table finished up with about 15 coats of the finish, for lasting wear. So ok!, I have overhead water pipes in our single story house ,and guess what ? Yep a pipe broke in the attic ,water ran all night exactly on top of the table. Unbelievable though ,although water was running over the table ,full length and width for over 6 hrs. or so ,the finish held up ,as when the water was finally cleaned up and the table dried, none of the wood had really gotten wet ,and no further action was needed. If I had however used an oil finish, I am willing to bet the outcome would have NOT been the same. Tables that will at some time or another, come in contact with any kind of liquid ,water ,soda, liquor ,or anything else can and will ruin your oil finish. ps. The product I used was a spray on Polyurethane product. Stu.
+Stu Stewart Agreed. The title was a bit tongue and cheek. This finish is virtually useless against water... like a water glass or anything like that. I'd recommend poly as well for a table top finish. :)
+Nate Hamann ... You'd never find a piece like it to buy .. because the walnut is 1.25 inches thick. To build, the biggest cost is the wood and depends on where you can find 5 quarter or 6 quarter rough walnut lumber. I get mine from a local sawmill.
@@panofish Thanks. Do you know of an alternate finish that makes light colored grain pop, but darkens any less than Maloof's? I have a client very concerned about darkening.
@@michael.schuler I would try maloof, but test if for you client first. Check with woodworker forums like sawmill creek. You'll get a bunch more experienced answers there.
@@panofish I've been doing what you suggest. Many seem to like Odies Oil for my purpose. Just looking for more consensus before I experiment. I know I'll just have to try a few and get client approval. Thanks again for your reply. I love Maloof's work and also his wonderful craft and personal example for us all. Guess I'll start with his finish, per your recommendation.
Walnut is my favorite as well. I am cutting a bunch of circles out of logs to cover a wall and wanted to know which finish would you go with. Also wanted to know the difference between the ones that are listed as top coat vs. poly oil
I don't think there is any guarantee, but a quality polyurethane would be your best bet. Arm R Seal is good, but it depends on the look you are going for. The thickest quality polyurethane I have used is a product called epifanes. Great stuff, but you will get a thicker finish with something like that.
+gary24752 It takes great patience and a lot of wiping over many days. 3 or 4 coats will give a nice simple finish, but if you can repeat for many many more coats, like 10 or 12.. you'll see a more gloss like finish without a plastic look. I love it either way.
+gary24752 Yes. The difference between the 2 versions of finish are subtle, but I believe you are supposed to use the wax varnish as the final layer and the poly version underneath. I am still looking to play with both for a better comparison, but at the moment I like the wax varnish finish on top ... it looks very natural.
+Chad Cooper ... IMHO it isn't necessary, but I don't think it will be a problem. The Maloof finish comes in 2 different cans, a poly/oil can and a poly/wax can which is supposed to go on last. The can recommends about 4 coats of the first can and 2 coats of the second. In my limited experience, you can do any number of coats or use either or both cans with still very good results. The poly/oil can does appear to take longer to cure because it seems to have more tung oil which is notorious for slower curing. Good Luck!
I have a very ornate intricately carved nest of tables. At the corners and as a thin line around the centre of the table it has bee inlaid with solid brass. It catches the dirt in all the carved spaces and is lookinf dirty and tired but the main centre it is still lovely. I am not a professional. I think its cherry. Ive heard you can clean dirty wood with a mix of linseed and turpentine but I cannot remember the recipe. Can you give me any advice how to bring this lovely table back to life. It was my Mother's and I want to do her proud. Many thanks.
Use turpentine or mineral spirits only if you just want to clean the wood. After that see how it looks. If not satisfactory then go to a woodworking store and find a wax that doesn't dissolve lacquer because the tables may have a lacquer finish.. Or take the table to someone who restores furniture professionally and they can tell you what the finish is and how to refinish if the initial cleaning and waxing doesn't bring the tables back to life.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It is interesting when you explain the feel of touching the wood. We believe that wood furniture is a living being sharing our emotions. Hence, a good finish is a MUST to show our respect to them.
what does he mean by sand to 400 grit? I'm new to woodworking. Does he mean start at a higher grit and then stop at 400 or start with a lower grit and stop at 400?
TheBrothersCompound Thanks for asking... I mean start at the lower grit like 150 or so (depends how rough your board is).. then work your way toward the higher (finer) grit of 400 little by little (don't skip intermediate grits). Anything more than 400 as the final grit is unnecessary IMHO, but less than 400 (like 320) is insufficient for this type of finish.
rough sawn lumber from local sawmill. much cheaper than home depot or lowes prices, but you need more equipment like a table saw, planer and jointer to prepare the rough lumber.
@panofish Thank you for doing this video! That finish looks amazing on your walnut piece. When you are showing us the final result at the end, is that after just 1 coat? Or did you do several coats and follow up with the wax? Thanks again!
Ryan DeYoung I can't recall the exact number of coats... but I would guess it is around 4 or 5 coats. There seems to be a sweet spot .. too few and there isn't enough sheen and too many and it looks less natural. I just keep re-coating until I am happy with the look.
+smuggletrain Thanks... I do too... my recommendation is to make sure you sand to 400+, no less. Then I simply used the wax/oil Maloof finish. That's it. I did use a compressor to blow the dust after sanding before applying the finish.
that looks beautiful and I wish I could touch it! would this finish be a good idea for an ash guitar body? Also would it darken the ash enough or would I want to stain the wood first?
Tough question. Not sure, but I recommend testing some samples for yourself... since ash is so light in color. I have a ton of ash in my supply, but I haven't tried using this finish on ash yet. It is inevitable though, so I will eventually find out.
Nice. Thanks for the tip. I've recently upped my game in building to furniture and had minimal experience with hand applied finishes. I just completed a coffee table made from reclaimed mahogany and used Watco Danish Oil after block sanding to 400 grit. It's only the second time I've used it. I think I might give this a try if I can find it locally.
Great job.As beginning woodwrker i was looking for this kind of finish for a special project.Did you just use the poly oil or also the poly wax for this great result.
+Leo Schot , Both. The poly/oil goes on about 4 times and the poly/wax twice. Wait 24 hours between each application and use #0000 steel wool to burnish between coats.
“You will have to repeat the wiping several times over the next few hours; you have to wait at least 24 hours between coats.” This is a bit unclear to me. You first wipe on the finish, then wipe again and again without adding more finish? Then, the next day, repeat that process? Is this correct? Nice work, btw.
wipe on the finish... then check it several times about 30 minutes apart. you may find the finish (a slow curing oil) needs a wipe down with a dry cloth to ensure it is smooth and even. This is more likely to happen if you over soaked the finish into the wood and it bubbles back to the top.
I'm kinda new to this whole wood paint and finish thing, sorry I'm a bit confused. So after your paint dries you rub the finish on then you immediately wipe the surface, and again in 30 min intervals. What did you mean about the coats? Am I supposed to apply several fresh coats of the finish? And do I have to keep wiping through the course of 24 hours? I don't stay awake that long lol help. I'm just trying to see what I would do if I wanted to repaint bought furniture for a different look.
This isn't paint it's a oil / poly mix which is yellow/clear and has a consistency and appearance similar to olive oil. You put it on heavy to let it soak into the wood, but you must wipe the excess off later because some won't fully absorb and some will even slowly ooze back out of the wood over time... Hence the need to wipe repeatedly. After a few wipe downs over a couple hours... you can let it partially cure over night and repeat the process the next day... each day therefore is another layer or coat of finish. This type of finish takes much more attention and effort than paint and the beauty of the end result is in direct proportion to the effort. Good Luck
Excellent tutorial video, thanks! I add that directions on the Sam Maloof Poly/Oil can are confusing as to how best to prep between each of the four coats. Also be aware one cannot use this on exotic woods like teak, rosewood, padouk, etc--interferes with the natural resins of those woods. That said, I am getting good results staining some reclaimed teak with a oil-gel stain, sealing it with 1:1 diluted wax-free shellac, followed by four coats of Sam's poly/oil, lightly scuffing with 600 wet/dry between coats separated by 24 or more hours.
Hello- I am working with Cherry wood - planning sand to 220 - then sand 320 then apply 1 coat Indian Ink - sand 400 grit - was aiming to use sam Maloof Oil/Wax for a dull black velvet look - thoughts? suggestions? thank you for your time! Mira
+Mohamed Aly ... Most woods darken with age, but Black Walnut lightens, especially when exposed to sunlight. I don't think this finish contains any special UV inhibitors. I just keep my walnut away from windows and sunlight.
Can this finish be used on top of an oil based stain? I want to stain a pine amplifier cabinet and this is the finish I am looking for! Pine is a very light wood though and I want to go for a darker color. Sure hope I can get the exact finish you got on your project. Thanks
Good question. I prefer to sand with a random orbit sander aka ROS because it is fast and consistent and powered. A ROS by its nature will create the small micro circles.
You say you also like the minwax wipe on polys. How similar are they to this oil? Can I use them on properly dried water borne latex stains? Subscribed...
+Juan Cabrera ... many options, if the white table is white because of paint... then strip and sand to bare wood. If the bare wood is too light, then stain to taste and apply a top finish like this one.
I am looking for instructions on how to achieve an open pore surface like you have and how to lacquer/wax it. Is this only typical to certain types of wood, or can one achieve this from any type of wood. I am looking into buying a used, massive wood table and then creating my own finish. Thanks in advance for any kind of advice. Greetings from Germany
Generally you should sand dry, but there ARE techniques that use water to achieve a smoother finish. It involves sanding in increasingly fine-grit sandpapers, then spraying/wiping on a little bit of water to get the wood slightly damp. This raises the wood grain. Let it dry, re-sand, and finish. If you would like an even smoother finish, use a Fine Steel Wool to buff the wood surface before finishing. You can also buff with steel wool in between dried finish coats. Using a combination of 300-400 grit sandpaper, water grain raising techniques, AND buffing with steel wool will give you an ultra-smooth, almost glass-like finish.. If that's what you're going for. I've done it once on a gun stock, and it's a LOT of work, but ooh man was it worth it in the end.
+raymond jongeneel I haven't tried it, but I've heard great things about it. I reserve the right to change my mind, but for now... this maloof finish is still my personal favorite. :)
Some subtle variation of color is actually due to my camera, my lighting, video colorspace, and your monitor. That being said, I bet the color looks fairly accurate to reality (slightly reddish). The oil finish itself doesn't add much color, but the wood will "POP" and reveal a dark, deep color when you add an oil finish (or even water). All walnut woods are not the same color and mine just happens to have a slight reddish tint. I like it too.
Buy a good cup gun. Go to your local Sherwin Williams, buy some of their 'conversion varnish'. Kind of a pain in the hooty hooty to use, but durable beyond any wiping or rubbing finish. I have a table and 4 chairs that I finished 25 years ago, with Sherwin Williams Kemvar, and they still look good today, with minimal scratches. Don't spend 4 hours finishing one piece, spend 30 minutes of total time and get a slick finish that will last 50 years beyond any wiping finish.
+peter clifton ... Yeah.. LOL. For better or worse, I prefer to use power tools whenever possible. 400 grit does minimize the swirl scratches enough to create a buttery smooth finish when you apply the poly/oil.
Yeah , for many years I worked Restoring sports Cars doing body work and painting , I ten moved into doing furniture , I gave up using any sander that Rotates for that reason ,so i just stick to small palm vibrating sanders that don't rotate I found much more enjoyment restoring furniture than i did wit sports cars .. Just love timber I guess .. all the best to you
I'm new to woodworking and finishing but shellac wasn't considered? Why? Also, all you guys that love using walnut, well I like walnut as well but the cost is crazy. Are you all wealthy or is there some secret place to get walnut I don't know about? Or are you guys all out in the woods hunting for fallen trees?
I like your questions. I like shellac and it was one of my favorite finishes until I tried this one. The maloof finish is still my current favorite. Yes, walnut is expensive, but the cost of lumber is proportional to the distance from its origin in the woods to the standard retail. So the cheapest walnut is to cut it down and mill it yourself. Sadly this is not practical for most of us. The next cheapest option is to find a sawyer in your area. This is what I did. I know a local farmer who also runs a sawmill and sells the rough sawn lumber for much cheaper than you'd get at home depot or rockler type of place. Of course, you'll have to have a jointer, planer and tablesaw to create finished lumber from the rough sawn, but it is well worth it for price and quality of boards. Good Luck! :)
What are your thoughts on the Watco Danish Oil? I did a desktop using the Waterlox finish you have pictured but can't stand the glass buildup on the top of it. I was going to sand it down and try the Watco Danish Oil but after finding your video the Sam Maloof products are pretty interesting. Thoughts on the Danish oil vs Sam Maloof?
Love Watco Danish Oil. Fast & Easy. Darkens wood slightly as do all oils. Tried & True makes a lovely Danish as well. Not as fast as Watco, but smoother sheen & food safe.
The under coats should be the poly /oil and the top coats should be the oil/wax. But, when I shot this video I actually used all oil/wax for all coats and it turned out great. I lost count of the total number of coats applied, but it was a very very high number to reach the beautiful look. It still looks great even today.
Hi Panofish, would you say the sam maloof products are water resisitant. looking at using a wooden slab as a vanity top for a vessel sink and need some advice on water resistancy, really like the sam maloof products. Your help is gratefully appreciated...
+Vince Hughes There are 2 maloof products, poly/oil and oil/wax. If you apply enough coats of the poly/oil ... you will get some water resistance. I full poly finish will provide the most protection, but will look more plastic than the maloof. Not sure what advice to give, but personally I would go witht the maloof poly/oil multiple coats. I would also be careful to avoid standing water on the counter though.
How does this work on old walnut that has faded? I have a table that had faded and does not match the leaves, I want to put a finish on that is not that plastic, shellacked finish that does not look good. I want the natural oiled walnut look. However, I am not sure what was faded on this table the old stain, sprayed on lacquer, which was tinted or the wood its self. The finish I want is what you have here. In addition I want something that is easy to repair should some idiot leave a glass on the table and a ring result. I want it to be able to be sanded out and recoated easily buy the owner and recoated. I have had pieces where I had to repair a scratch and consequently marred the finish and had to do a light sanding & re-oiling to the entire table to get the finish to match. It was easy & I want to get that same finish on the table I am refinishing, is this the way to go? Is this a very protective oil finish? Also will I need to stain of dye the old wood to get it to match or will it come back with the finish applied?
+Sam W The secret to this finish is sanding to 400 grit or better. Since you need to sand, the finish for old walnut should look as good as new walnut. This poly/oil finish soaks into the wood and therefore makes the wood pop and look much nice than unfinished or coated with a plastic finish. This will not help you match the finish of other pieces finished with a different finish. It is potentially a lot more work, but you would need to sand and refinish all pieces you wish to match. This poly oil finish is a close-to-the-wood type of finish and although it contains poiy... it does not offer too much protection. The only way to offer protection is to build a film finish of poly and that will look more plastic. Hope this helps.
Thanks for your time in making this video.
I tried this product and echo many of the uploader's comments on my walnut rocker. I sand to 400 or even 600. The higher grits honestly do not take much time. I apply it liberally, rub it in with a rag to even out the application, and let it sit for just a few minutes, like 3-4 minutes, and then start wiping it off. This stuff will ooze out of pores and joints, so wipe all of it off, every drop. Then wait 30 minutes and wipe it off again. Then wait 30 minutes and wipe it off again. Then wait another 30 minutes and wipe it off again. You will be surprised how much it oozes out even an hour later. Let dry until it no longer smells, which could be a day or two or even a week. Then reapply, but it will not soak in as much, but still wipe it down multiple times. The second coat dries much faster, usually a day or two. I go with four coats.
I've never tried the oil/wax product only the poly/oil product.
Well said. Matches my sentiment exactly. I tried to convey this in my video. The finish is still amazing looking years later. Love this finish. :)
Was a furniture finisher for 25 years and love this, simple, easy and a rich end result. Thanks for sharing...
Thanks! :)
Walnut is a favorite of many and I don't blame anyone for the choice. Great look! Thanks for sharing.
I love this finish, it's got a smooth warmth to it, and I agree about not wanting a plastic look. What would you recommend to get a similar finish but on a table top that will likely encounter moisture?
unfortunately, I would not recommend this finish for a table where moisture is present. You have to use a polyurethane. The more coats the more protection you get. The only other option is if you want a glossy or matte finish. Most brands of poly are available in either finish. I would opt for a thinner finish and allow the scrapes and watermarks to simply add character and patina to a piece.
What is your technique for getting the corners and edges so perfectly rounded on this piece?
I used a small handheld router with roundover bit. This is easier with such thick boards like I use here. That left a missed area on the inside corners that I feathered with the random orbit sander when I sanded. I used a soft foam pad on my sander and then put a fine mesh sandpaper on the foam pad .... this made sanding the rounded edges much easier and seamless. Most importantly.. sand in many passes until you get to 400 grit. 320 won't do and more than 400 is unnecessary. This finish looks amazing with many thin coats on top of 400 grit sanding. patience pays off. The bookcases still look amazing today over 6 years later. I also love the really thick boards... Absolutely no bowing ...even with many heavy books on the shelves. I hate bookcases with thin shelves that sag over time.
Kudos! Straightforward presentation gets straight to the point. How absolutely refreshing!
Beautiful work! How many coats did you apply?
So many that I lost count. Probably 10 or more?
@@panofish oh okay Ill try this on my next project. Did you have to sand or buff between coats?? I'm a complete novice so thank you for your help!
@@sasuke671 I did not buff or sand between coats. I just wiped on and then wiped off excess .. which made a very thin coating and did this maybe 3-4 times in a day. Just be careful to watch out for dust settling on the surface.
I have to tell'ya. Your videos got me into purchasing and using Sam Maloof's products. I've found that the combination of Maloof's Poly/Oil and General Finish's Semi-Gloss worked best for my application when finishing Walnut. Note: Not actually combining the two together but using Maloof first and then applying General Finish as a final coat. Thanks so much for the inspiration.
I do the same when I want extra durability :)
love the matte finish. really makes the wood look natural, yet refined.
Me too
thank god i came across this video. I was recommended varnish for my walnut, and was extremely hesitant in applying it because i do not want a plasticy feel/look.
It does require many applications and patience, but I think it is the most beautiful finish. Update: My bookcases are 5 years older and still look as good as the day I applied the finish. Just don't put a sweaty beer can or glass on the surface. The finish is relatively thin compared to varnishes and polys.
@@panofishI think for my piece (bedside lamp/tray) I would prefer to have a more beautiful, tactile finish and trade off some durability since it wont have much wear. I cant seem to find sam maloof in Canada, would you say that General Arm R Seal has almost the same appearance? thanks for the reply!
@@SH-kh4bq Check rockler .. do they ship to Canada? Arm R Seal is an excellent finish, but in my opinion it is more of a poly urethane finish and thicker and much more difficult to get a smooth close to the wood finish. The maloof finish is a 3 part mix of one-third linseed oil, one-third raw tung oil, and one-third semigloss urethane varnish. It goes on much more oily and thinner each coat. I think it enhances the look of the wood and adds a nice sheen. Arm R Seal will give you a more protective, durable, thicker, visible finish.
panofish unfortunately they do not. What would be a second best finish close to maloof in that case?
@@SH-kh4bq Sorry, I don't know of any other finish that is similar to the Maloof finish. There probably is something out there, but I don't know of it. You could try mixing your own version according to the 3 part formula or you could ask the same question on one of the popular woodworking forums.
Very nice piece of furniture and finish.. I like the subtle rounded edges on the walnut.
Referring to your comment at 0:48.
What finish would you use if you were looking for more of a plastic look?
For absolute durability the thickest polyurethane with the most solids that I love is epifanes varnish. You can get it through amazon. It's not cheap, but it is a great thick film finish which offers the best protection.
@@panofish Thanks for this. How hard is it to get a smooth finish with Epifanes being so thick?
@@mick2spic Epifanes is thick and you can get it in glossy (no silica) or matte (fine silica), but in either case it will self level and look very smooth (like honey) ... just make sure the place your are letting it dry in ... doesn't have dust in the air ... .that will settle on the finish while it its drying..
@@panofish It sounds nice, thanks for the recommendation and tip
@@panofish One other question if I may Panofish: with the Maloof’s oil poly, have you needed to make any repairs to a small defect years later on a piece? Like have you tried just using some more Maloof’s to one spot and seen how it blends? Wondering how well a repair spot might blend in, but I imagine it’ll be very hard to get it matching exactly without re-doing an entire piece. Thank you for any info you may have with that.
I like the internal 3d effect of walnut but I don't like the pin hole grains. Is there a way to make the grain holes disappear?
pore filler ... search youtube for that
thks- I just built a maloof inspired rocking chair and am about to put this finish on it.It is sanded to 220 right now.....glad I watched this....bring it to 400 thks again!
Jack Chapman sand to 1000 grit and buff trough 3M pads.
Greetings from Kentucky. I've been a hobby blacksmith for 5 years or so. An old timer blacksmith told me a long time ago superglue is actually a great finish for small projects, like wooden knife handles. I've found it works great. Rub it on by hand, dry. Sand it with 800 grit, reapply, dry, lightly sand with 1000 grit, then polish with a dremel with the fine red polishing compound. Viola, a very pretty and durable finish that really brings out the wood.
edit: important, Crazy Glue brand is the only kind to use for this. I've tried others but they get foggy, but crazyglue gets a glass-like shine and transparency.
Can we use this finish on outside wood like cumaru?
Thanks
This finish is intended for a fine "thinner" finish on interior furniture. For outdoor finishes, I would look elsewhere.
I don't have a favorite wood but walnut is definitely beautiful. And that finish is nice.
+Boran Theki ... Thanks!
Hello PanoFish. I know you published this years ago, but what about with pine? Would you give the pine a light seal first then apply this finish? Thank you for your video.
Search for the wood whisperer on youtube on how to finish pine... he has good advice on pine finishing.
Nice Post, but anyway, is wax polish like this are water proof ?
I have the similar question and waiting for the answer?
Very nice 👍. Do you feel this would be a good finish for a walnut gun stock? I prefer the sanded in finish with the pours filled do you think this work for a sanded in finish? Also should it give good protection and would I need to reapply for maintenance? Thanks for sharing
It would look just as nice or nicer with a pore filled finish. The durability should be ok because it contains poly with the oils. Just a lot of fine coats and you must start sand to 400 or better before you coat.
@@panofish If I sand to 400 should I still sand in the first few coats? Also should I cut the first few coats 50/50 ? Then finish with light coats and lightly buff in between? Thanks
@@brianlee6849 I don't know how that might affect the result. I didn't. I sanded to 400... then gradually applied many thin wiping coats over time. I was careful to avoid allowing dust to settle into the finish and I would wipe off any excess. Just keep applying many many coats. It took a while before the finish developed a consistent sheen.
@@panofish Ok thank you
I know I may be stepping on a lot of toes here but here goes!!! If the piece of furniture or object will never come in contact with moisture a oil wax finish like you favor such as the Maloof finish works well, however in my case I spent considerable time making a kitchen table from two wide boards of cherry , approx. 14" wide ,and two curly maple boards ( along the edge ) which produced a table about 40" wide and about 6 feet in length. I knew this table would be used every day ,and wiped with a damp cloth after each meal! So I chose polyurethane for my finish. The table finished up with about 15 coats of the finish, for lasting wear. So ok!, I have overhead water pipes in our single story house ,and guess what ? Yep a pipe broke in the attic ,water ran all night exactly on top of the table. Unbelievable though ,although water was running over the table ,full length and width for over 6 hrs. or so ,the finish held up ,as when the water was finally cleaned up and the table dried, none of the wood had really gotten wet ,and no further action was needed. If I had however used an oil finish, I am willing to bet the outcome would have NOT been the same. Tables that will at some time or another, come in contact with any kind of liquid ,water ,soda, liquor ,or anything else can and will ruin your oil finish. ps. The product I used was a spray on Polyurethane product. Stu.
+Stu Stewart Agreed. The title was a bit tongue and cheek. This finish is virtually useless against water... like a water glass or anything like that. I'd recommend poly as well for a table top finish. :)
+panofish Thank you for your reply ! Keep the chips flying!!!
I always thought oil poly would be more durable from liquids than water based poly. What brand of Waterbased poly do you use?
@@panofish Do you agree with the other fellow above that water based poly offers better protection against liquids than oil poly?
Walnut is my favorite wood as well. I really like when you can see wood pores.
which finish was it, oil/poly or oil/wax finish?
That bookshelf is fantastic. What cost would i be looking at for a piece like that?
+Nate Hamann ... You'd never find a piece like it to buy .. because the walnut is 1.25 inches thick. To build, the biggest cost is the wood and depends on where you can find 5 quarter or 6 quarter rough walnut lumber. I get mine from a local sawmill.
AGREE!!! I took some Dark Walnut and used sandpaper down to 1500 grit. = such a quality finish after using Sam Maloof oil finish
Can you wax-polish this after the finish is done?
I don't see why not.
Nice workmanship
The joy of wood, it makes you want to touch it, finished or not!
On light colored woods (e.g. maple) does Maloof finish darken the wood much?
slightly, but not much
@@panofish Thanks. Do you know of an alternate finish that makes light colored grain pop, but darkens any less than Maloof's? I have a client very concerned about darkening.
@@michael.schuler I would try maloof, but test if for you client first. Check with woodworker forums like sawmill creek. You'll get a bunch more experienced answers there.
@@panofish I've been doing what you suggest. Many seem to like Odies Oil for my purpose. Just looking for more consensus before I experiment. I know I'll just have to try a few and get client approval. Thanks again for your reply. I love Maloof's work and also his wonderful craft and personal example for us all. Guess I'll start with his finish, per your recommendation.
@@michael.schuler I've heard good things about odies oil also, but never tried it. Let me know what you find out.
Walnut is my favorite as well. I am cutting a bunch of circles out of logs to cover a wall and wanted to know which finish would you go with. Also wanted to know the difference between the ones that are listed as top coat vs. poly oil
which finish won't leave a mark if a hot plate or dish is placed on it?
I don't think there is any guarantee, but a quality polyurethane would be your best bet. Arm R Seal is good, but it depends on the look you are going for. The thickest quality polyurethane I have used is a product called epifanes. Great stuff, but you will get a thicker finish with something like that.
hey walnut is my favorite wood to. Nice work, I'll have to look around for that finish and try it for myself.
What sheen is the finish? Is it possible to have a gloss product and with the wiping process end up with a satin finish simply by wiping it off?
+gary24752 It takes great patience and a lot of wiping over many days. 3 or 4 coats will give a nice simple finish, but if you can repeat for many many more coats, like 10 or 12.. you'll see a more gloss like finish without a plastic look. I love it either way.
+panofish What is the finish you are using. I cannot understand what the video is saying.
+gary24752 Sorry about that... it is the Sam Maloof Finish available from Rockler. It's a little pricey, but a little goes a long way.
+panofish Is this his wax varnish finish?
+gary24752 Yes. The difference between the 2 versions of finish are subtle, but I believe you are supposed to use the wax varnish as the final layer and the poly version underneath. I am still looking to play with both for a better comparison, but at the moment I like the wax varnish finish on top ... it looks very natural.
Dear Panofish, do you reccommend a final topcoat of wax on walnut? Will this look bad?
+Chad Cooper ... IMHO it isn't necessary, but I don't think it will be a problem. The Maloof finish comes in 2 different cans, a poly/oil can and a poly/wax can which is supposed to go on last. The can recommends about 4 coats of the first can and 2 coats of the second. In my limited experience, you can do any number of coats or use either or both cans with still very good results. The poly/oil can does appear to take longer to cure because it seems to have more tung oil which is notorious for slower curing. Good Luck!
tonight i finished my first live edge end table and i used maloof oil , its great stuff,ill apply a second coat tomorrow
I have to agree with you 100%, that's my favorite finish! and as you say, I want to touch it!
Excellent video. I also have a deep passion for Black Walnut.
Great video! I love walnut too!
Can I use this on outside furniture?
Damaso Hernandez no, use epifanes
Ok thanks
I have a very ornate intricately carved nest of tables. At the corners and as a thin line around the centre of the table it has bee inlaid with solid brass. It catches the dirt in all the carved spaces and is lookinf dirty and tired but the main centre it is still lovely. I am not a professional. I think its cherry. Ive heard you can clean dirty wood with a mix of linseed and turpentine but I cannot remember the recipe. Can you give me any advice how to bring this lovely table back to life. It was my Mother's and I want to do her proud. Many thanks.
I am not a restoration expert and I would be hate to mislead you and cause damage to your piece. Maybe someone else here can give advice?
Use turpentine or mineral spirits only if you just want to clean the wood. After that see how it looks. If not satisfactory then go to a woodworking store and find a wax that doesn't dissolve lacquer because the tables may have a lacquer finish.. Or take the table to someone who restores furniture professionally and they can tell you what the finish is and how to refinish if the initial cleaning and waxing doesn't bring the tables back to life.
I like the open pores on anything other than formal furniture. Looks great.
Thank you for sharing your experience. It is interesting when you explain the feel of touching the wood. We believe that wood furniture is a living being sharing our emotions. Hence, a good finish is a MUST to show our respect to them.
@Jim Here are some great woodworking plans if you're interested - WoodSun.xyz
what does he mean by sand to 400 grit? I'm new to woodworking. Does he mean start at a higher grit and then stop at 400 or start with a lower grit and stop at 400?
TheBrothersCompound Thanks for asking... I mean start at the lower grit like 150 or so (depends how rough your board is).. then work your way toward the higher (finer) grit of 400 little by little (don't skip intermediate grits). Anything more than 400 as the final grit is unnecessary IMHO, but less than 400 (like 320) is insufficient for this type of finish.
Great video! Sweet camera close-ups.
Where do you get walnut from?
Walnut trees. Home Depot, Lowes, or online or local mills.
rough sawn lumber from local sawmill. much cheaper than home depot or lowes prices, but you need more equipment like a table saw, planer and jointer to prepare the rough lumber.
panofish in stuck doing benches because my planner is only a 12"
Owl Lumber has great walnut planks. I got mine there.
Walnut trees
@panofish Thank you for doing this video! That finish looks amazing on your walnut piece. When you are showing us the final result at the end, is that after just 1 coat? Or did you do several coats and follow up with the wax? Thanks again!
Ryan DeYoung I can't recall the exact number of coats... but I would guess it is around 4 or 5 coats. There seems to be a sweet spot .. too few and there isn't enough sheen and too many and it looks less natural. I just keep re-coating until I am happy with the look.
Nice finish Mr Rogers
LOL... I've heard that before as well as Bob Ross comments :)
thanks for showing this, love Sam Maloof!!
Sam Maloof is such a legend! RIP young man.
I love the look of your end grain. What did you use to seal it up so that it looks so smooth? Glue & water mix?
+smuggletrain Thanks... I do too... my recommendation is to make sure you sand to 400+, no less. Then I simply used the wax/oil Maloof finish. That's it. I did use a compressor to blow the dust after sanding before applying the finish.
I always oil walnut before apply any other finish. Otherwise it can develop a reflective shine. I use linseed oil.
The maloof finish has BLO in it :)
that looks beautiful and I wish I could touch it! would this finish be a good idea for an ash guitar body? Also would it darken the ash enough or would I want to stain the wood first?
Tough question. Not sure, but I recommend testing some samples for yourself... since ash is so light in color. I have a ton of ash in my supply, but I haven't tried using this finish on ash yet. It is inevitable though, so I will eventually find out.
Thanks for the quick reply, I'll keep on the Internet for more info.
Nice. Thanks for the tip. I've recently upped my game in building to furniture and had minimal experience with hand applied finishes. I just completed a coffee table made from reclaimed mahogany and used Watco Danish Oil after block sanding to 400 grit. It's only the second time I've used it. I think I might give this a try if I can find it locally.
Great job.As beginning woodwrker i was looking for this kind of finish for a special project.Did you just use the poly oil or also the poly wax for this great result.
+Leo Schot , Both. The poly/oil goes on about 4 times and the poly/wax twice. Wait 24 hours between each application and use #0000 steel wool to burnish between coats.
do you need to sand back between coats to smooth out the raised grains?
Great video.
list of varnish or materials used please.
Just added the links to the video description
How well does this finish protect against non-major water damage?
“You will have to repeat the wiping several times over the next few hours; you have to wait at least 24 hours between coats.” This is a bit unclear to me. You first wipe on the finish, then wipe again and again without adding more finish? Then, the next day, repeat that process? Is this correct? Nice work, btw.
wipe on the finish... then check it several times about 30 minutes apart. you may find the finish (a slow curing oil) needs a wipe down with a dry cloth to ensure it is smooth and even. This is more likely to happen if you over soaked the finish into the wood and it bubbles back to the top.
I'm kinda new to this whole wood paint and finish thing, sorry I'm a bit confused. So after your paint dries you rub the finish on then you immediately wipe the surface, and again in 30 min intervals. What did you mean about the coats? Am I supposed to apply several fresh coats of the finish? And do I have to keep wiping through the course of 24 hours? I don't stay awake that long lol help. I'm just trying to see what I would do if I wanted to repaint bought furniture for a different look.
This isn't paint it's a oil / poly mix which is yellow/clear and has a consistency and appearance similar to olive oil. You put it on heavy to let it soak into the wood, but you must wipe the excess off later because some won't fully absorb and some will even slowly ooze back out of the wood over time... Hence the need to wipe repeatedly. After a few wipe downs over a couple hours... you can let it partially cure over night and repeat the process the next day... each day therefore is another layer or coat of finish. This type of finish takes much more attention and effort than paint and the beauty of the end result is in direct proportion to the effort. Good Luck
+panofish lol I didnt say it was paint but thank you very much for your vid and response. Could this be used over painted wooden furniture too?
This finish is only good on bare wood... and it is important to sand the bare wood to 400 grit before applying.
Can you polyurethane this After the blue finish? I want it to be water resistant
Really looks good, walnut alike color
Excellent tutorial video, thanks! I add that directions on the Sam Maloof Poly/Oil can are confusing as to how best to prep between each of the four coats. Also be aware one cannot use this on exotic woods like teak, rosewood, padouk, etc--interferes with the natural resins of those woods. That said, I am getting good results staining some reclaimed teak with a oil-gel stain, sealing it with 1:1 diluted wax-free shellac, followed by four coats of Sam's poly/oil, lightly scuffing with 600 wet/dry between coats separated by 24 or more hours.
Hello- I am working with Cherry wood - planning sand to 220 - then sand 320 then apply 1 coat Indian Ink - sand 400 grit - was aiming to use sam Maloof Oil/Wax for a dull black velvet look - thoughts? suggestions? thank you for your time! Mira
Nice video. Does this finish prevents the walnut from fading with time?
+Mohamed Aly ... Most woods darken with age, but Black Walnut lightens, especially when exposed to sunlight. I don't think this finish contains any special UV inhibitors. I just keep my walnut away from windows and sunlight.
Thanks for your answer. Do you think it can be used with a UV protection coat before applying the oil finish?
+Mohamed Aly ... I don't know... I have no experience with UV coatings. Might be worth investigating though.
Thanks. I will do more research on that.
Well done, I learned a lot in a couple of minutes, please post more informative videos.
Can this finish be used on top of an oil based stain? I want to stain a pine amplifier cabinet and this is the finish I am looking for! Pine is a very light wood though and I want to go for a darker color. Sure hope I can get the exact finish you got on your project. Thanks
Great vid Sir
Wow, thanks :)
I'll be finishing a 68''x25''x1.25'' tabletop. Is 1 quart enough for multiple finishes, or do I need more?
I think so. It will take a surprising number or layers, but each layer is very very thin. Patience and perseverance is key.
what would you recommend for for red oak
+Mobile E.R ... I haven't tried this with red oak, but this is the finish I use on all types of wood. I am not a fan of stains and dyes.
+panofish how long does the smell last? I just did the finish today currently had the wood out door might bring it in later the night
Why would you sand in a circular motion? 1:32
Good question. I prefer to sand with a random orbit sander aka ROS because it is fast and consistent and powered. A ROS by its nature will create the small micro circles.
I like the Watco danish oil it is quick and easy and looks natural
How did you round off the inside corners?
The round over router bit worked on most edges, but yes.. the inside corners need to be manually sanded to blend and match the round over.
Which finish is this? I am unabl to get.
It's available at rockler dot com
You say you also like the minwax wipe on polys. How similar are they to this oil? Can I use them on properly dried water borne latex stains? Subscribed...
Would this yellow over time?
Has never yellowed for me. My bookcase still looks same.
@@panofish Thank you sir!
how to make a antique white table to dark wooden look?
+Juan Cabrera ... many options, if the white table is white because of paint... then strip and sand to bare wood. If the bare wood is too light, then stain to taste and apply a top finish like this one.
Where do you get your wood from?
I usually buy from a local sawmill, but this huge slab of walnut was a lucky deal from a fellow local woodworker through a local woodworking forum.
I am looking for instructions on how to achieve an open pore surface like you have and how to lacquer/wax it. Is this only typical to certain types of wood, or can one achieve this from any type of wood. I am looking into buying a used, massive wood table and then creating my own finish.
Thanks in advance for any kind of advice.
Greetings from Germany
Perfect! Thanks from a new starter! Love it... 400 grit it is... better to use wet or dry? anyone?
Generally you should sand dry, but there ARE techniques that use water to achieve a smoother finish. It involves sanding in increasingly fine-grit sandpapers, then spraying/wiping on a little bit of water to get the wood slightly damp. This raises the wood grain. Let it dry, re-sand, and finish.
If you would like an even smoother finish, use a Fine Steel Wool to buff the wood surface before finishing. You can also buff with steel wool in between dried finish coats.
Using a combination of 300-400 grit sandpaper, water grain raising techniques, AND buffing with steel wool will give you an ultra-smooth, almost glass-like finish.. If that's what you're going for. I've done it once on a gun stock, and it's a LOT of work, but ooh man was it worth it in the end.
what about osmo hardwax
+raymond jongeneel I haven't tried it, but I've heard great things about it. I reserve the right to change my mind, but for now... this maloof finish is still my personal favorite. :)
Beautiful work
What paper towels are those
Got them at Home Depot
How did you do the joints for the middle shelf?
festool domino... it's an awesome tool
How did it come out a bit reddish? I like that actually:)
Some subtle variation of color is actually due to my camera, my lighting, video colorspace, and your monitor. That being said, I bet the color looks fairly accurate to reality (slightly reddish). The oil finish itself doesn't add much color, but the wood will "POP" and reveal a dark, deep color when you add an oil finish (or even water). All walnut woods are not the same color and mine just happens to have a slight reddish tint. I like it too.
Buy a good cup gun. Go to your local Sherwin Williams, buy some of their 'conversion varnish'. Kind of a pain in the hooty hooty to use, but durable beyond any wiping or rubbing finish.
I have a table and 4 chairs that I finished 25 years ago, with Sherwin Williams Kemvar, and they still look good today, with minimal scratches.
Don't spend 4 hours finishing one piece, spend 30 minutes of total time and get a slick finish that will last 50 years beyond any wiping finish.
you've use a rotating sander? ,, they love leaving marks ,,, nice workshop you have my friend
+peter clifton ... Yeah.. LOL. For better or worse, I prefer to use power tools whenever possible. 400 grit does minimize the swirl scratches enough to create a buttery smooth finish when you apply the poly/oil.
Yeah , for many years I worked Restoring sports Cars doing body work and painting , I ten moved into doing furniture , I gave up using any sander that Rotates for that reason ,so i just stick to small palm vibrating sanders that don't rotate I found much more enjoyment restoring furniture than i did wit sports cars .. Just love timber I guess .. all the best to you
I'm new to woodworking and finishing but shellac wasn't considered? Why?
Also, all you guys that love using walnut, well I like walnut as well but the cost is crazy. Are you all wealthy or is there some secret place to get walnut I don't know about? Or are you guys all out in the woods hunting for fallen trees?
I like your questions. I like shellac and it was one of my favorite finishes until I tried this one. The maloof finish is still my current favorite. Yes, walnut is expensive, but the cost of lumber is proportional to the distance from its origin in the woods to the standard retail. So the cheapest walnut is to cut it down and mill it yourself. Sadly this is not practical for most of us. The next cheapest option is to find a sawyer in your area. This is what I did. I know a local farmer who also runs a sawmill and sells the rough sawn lumber for much cheaper than you'd get at home depot or rockler type of place. Of course, you'll have to have a jointer, planer and tablesaw to create finished lumber from the rough sawn, but it is well worth it for price and quality of boards. Good Luck! :)
great job on the craftsmanship !
*Which wood type you have used in this vid??*
Walnut :)
Nice job.
Looks great !
What are your thoughts on the Watco Danish Oil? I did a desktop using the Waterlox finish you have pictured but can't stand the glass buildup on the top of it. I was going to sand it down and try the Watco Danish Oil but after finding your video the Sam Maloof products are pretty interesting. Thoughts on the Danish oil vs Sam Maloof?
Love Watco Danish Oil. Fast & Easy. Darkens wood slightly as do all oils.
Tried & True makes a lovely Danish as well. Not as fast as Watco, but smoother sheen & food safe.
Ted Tucker I like to mix some wipe on poly and mineral spirits into my danish oil
Hi, for this video, did you use Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish or Sam Maloof Oil/Wax Finish? thanks
The under coats should be the poly /oil and the top coats should be the oil/wax. But, when I shot this video I actually used all oil/wax for all coats and it turned out great. I lost count of the total number of coats applied, but it was a very very high number to reach the beautiful look. It still looks great even today.
You're my new favorite finish.
Hi Panofish, would you say the sam maloof products are water resisitant. looking at using a wooden slab as a vanity top for a vessel sink and need some advice on water resistancy, really like the sam maloof products. Your help is gratefully appreciated...
+Vince Hughes There are 2 maloof products, poly/oil and oil/wax. If you apply enough coats of the poly/oil ... you will get some water resistance. I full poly finish will provide the most protection, but will look more plastic than the maloof. Not sure what advice to give, but personally I would go witht the maloof poly/oil multiple coats. I would also be careful to avoid standing water on the counter though.
+panofish Thanks for your help...
How does this work on old walnut that has faded? I have a table that had faded and does not match the leaves, I want to put a finish on that is not that plastic, shellacked finish that does not look good. I want the natural oiled walnut look. However, I am not sure what was faded on this table the old stain, sprayed on lacquer, which was tinted or the wood its self. The finish I want is what you have here. In addition I want something that is easy to repair should some idiot leave a glass on the table and a ring result. I want it to be able to be sanded out and recoated easily buy the owner and recoated. I have had pieces where I had to repair a scratch and consequently marred the finish and had to do a light sanding & re-oiling to the entire table to get the finish to match. It was easy & I want to get that same finish on the table I am refinishing, is this the way to go? Is this a very protective oil finish? Also will I need to stain of dye the old wood to get it to match or will it come back with the finish applied?
+Sam W The secret to this finish is sanding to 400 grit or better. Since you need to sand, the finish for old walnut should look as good as new walnut. This poly/oil finish soaks into the wood and therefore makes the wood pop and look much nice than unfinished or coated with a plastic finish. This will not help you match the finish of other pieces finished with a different finish. It is potentially a lot more work, but you would need to sand and refinish all pieces you wish to match. This poly oil finish is a close-to-the-wood type of finish and although it contains poiy... it does not offer too much protection. The only way to offer protection is to build a film finish of poly and that will look more plastic. Hope this helps.
sand, seal, finish = brand new :)
Stunning
Very nice of you to say. Thanks.
Good job.
Are your woodworking skills available for hire?
Hi, thanks for sharing! I liked the camera work; nice clear quality especially showing the sanding swirls. What are you using for the video?
Thanks, Canon vixia hf g30
love this finish! But you think you could have used a smaller peice of wood !
I hate it when book shelves sag. These do not :)