All the counter knowledge is lost now too due to time. I've had a 1983 Case 580F since 1990 and being a 'Gray Market' tractor it has certain things that are specific to it. Luckily a friendly parts person years ago gave me a wealth of information that I wrote down (he's long since died) so now I can at least tell the new people at the counter 'not correct' when they order something that isn't right.
@@joecummings1260 yes the outriggers are in a frame that allows the hoe to move from side to side for close work against a building. More of a gimmick I think seeing I have never loosened the pucks to shimmy it to either side. I'd be afraid to even try it now. I don't think that was just the 580F tho cause I think the E & C had the option also. It was different hoe altogether.
I'm dealing with this exact same issue... I pulled my great grandfather's 71 Barracuda convertible out of the barn after 27yrs... Only thing that was bad when stored was the master... Well I ordered from Rock Auto the all drum master... Picture on their website was wrong. Crazy thing was the part number (NM1493) was correct on the box and part... Ordered one from AutoZone (for double the price)...EXACT SAME THING! In fact it was probably produced in the exact same factory!
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage yep, I get it. Fortunately I got a NOS on the way now. Crazy that you posted about the same issue right when I thought I was going crazy
I had it happen twice now with Rock Auto, where even though you select all the correct information for your specific model, they will still list parts for the same car that are from different models. Second time was an expensive alternator, I'm now on their naughty list! oh boo hoo guess I'm back to supporting local haha
I got into it with Rockauto a few years ago when I was working on the engine for my Trans Am. I ordered a flexplate for a pontiac 400 and they sent me a flexplate for an oldsmobile 403. I went through a bunch of back and forth. I even used the flexplate manufacturers own website that states specifically, that the part number RA has listed for a Pontiac 400 is actually for an Olds 403. They refused to listen even though I provided links and screenshots and they denied my return.
They pull these parts from "member" warehouses, like a cooperative. If the warehouse shows stock and what should be the right part, RA has it shipped without even looking at it.
After a crash I needed the plastic M/C reservoir for a 03 Safari. Went online and nobody listed that; I'd have to buy a new M/C or find one in a junkyard. What the heck, it's old and a new M/C would be a smart move. All the 'cheap three' parts houses listed the same number so I went with the one I've had the best luck with. Got it here and the fitting size was too large on one line. They rechecked the listing, even trying a year older and newer but it was the same and there were no brake options on those cars so all used one MC. The other stores had the same wrong part as did NAPA and Rock Auto. Looking closely it seemed the reservoir was the same so I swapped it over and it worked. Don't know what I'll do when the M/C wears out since the internal parts were different too. What I've found time and again is that the 'parts catalogs' are now being compiled by idiots who don't cross-check with the OEM people and they list an incorrect part as fitting when it doesn't. Nobody does anything about it when you point that out, even if you show them the OEM numbers are different than theirs. Nobody knows how to fix their own mistakes anymore and nobody even tries. There used to be at least one knowledgeable person at a parts store but now none of them know diddly other than how to look up stuff on their computer, and many of their staff have trouble doing even that much. You have to be your own expert now.
Just order a line size adaptor from mc master. Fit the new unit to the original lines with said adaptor. I had to adapt a few lines on my bmw when I replaced all the current hard lines. (Adapted to the top of the abs)
It's the same way with the fuel tank on a 1964 Galaxie. There's like a hundred dozen listings for a wagon tank, which is filled from a fender mounted filler... but they ALL use a picture of the tank from a sedan, which is rear-filled. There's no way they're compatible from what I can tell.
Someone needs to start a made in usa classic part manufacturer. If i wasnt in such sht medical shape id be rebuilding classic chicken trucks with quality of life updates like open source spyware data collection free gps, heated seats, and theft prevention transponders for the more top end items. Granted most people are sheep so probably not enough demand. Ffs id love to buy the license for subaru brats or el caminos, im sure the gov would never let em be sold now though. P.s. The gov is not your friend, youll never vote yourself out of tyranny.
Nobody is willing to pay for quality. Even flag waving mouth breathers. Ask that crowd to put their money where their mouths are and you’ll get a bunch of excuses and rationalizations.
Rock Auto sent me a “rebuilt” one with completely stripped threads for the brake line fittings and gave me a hard time that it was somehow my fault. First and last fine dealing with Rock Auto.
There is not much difference between a disc brake master cylinder and a drum brake master cylinder. They function identical. There may be a bore size difference. It's something you should easily be able to measure
You should do a lot more learning about brake systems before for making such false definitive statments. There is also the fact one has the residual valves, and the other doesn't. Run a disk brake M/C for a 4 wheel drum setup, and your wheel cylinders will constantly leak & left atmospheric moisture in to the system. One or 2 rain storms and you will be replacing your entire brake system, including hard lines due to rust. Hope you like replacing wheel cylinders every few months as they rust up solid. Plus due to the constant leak you will have a spongy pedal in the best case, or have to pump your brakes in order to stop in the worst case.
It used to be easy to return stuff to them but scam artists ruined it for everyone. Its possible the master you want is NLA and superceded to what you received.
I think I’ve ordered my last parts from Rock Auto. I just ordered rear brake pads for my pickup and they were about half the price of what the local parts chains/stores wanted to charge. By the time they tacked on shipping I was pretty much at the price of the local parts stores. The only way it would be worth ordering from Rock Auto is if the sales tax was eliminated.
A big problem I found is that the digital parts books don't have alternates quite often, or just wrong listings and those folks that keyed in those parts years ago, their mistakes stick. Went to the ford dealer for a part because nobody had the correct part, they had one in stock yay. guy brings it out and its the same wrong part. Chat with the guy about all these parts irregularities and why ford even shows the wrong part for a ford of all things even though the questions asked are correct regarding equipment installed. Turns out theres a 3rd party company that compiles these digital catalogs, and everybody who uses them (so Ford, Rockauto, Napa, Carquest) will have the same wrong parts listed. Add in mid-year changes and you got a real problem when old parts books show the little foot notes to reference that say hey, if its this, use that instead. All nearly all those foot notes never made it to the digital versions. Great.
It's not just them, I purchased a a/c receiver dryer from a chevy store. I went by my original part number and the picture on their web site. Needless to say I received one that was completely different and wouldn't work. Thanks GM
Worked there Saint Joesph Michigan plant 1974 - 2000 slapped a whole bunch of them castings. 1978 we ran foundry OT in cooler months and had huge piles out in back field that we used magnet on crane to fill totes for later production. Unfortunately rain caused pitting in bores so that was stopped. Then if 75 degrees out side it was a 138 in cool areas of foundry. And lots of OT. Did 10hr days 7 days for 2 months. Worked in all departments over years from machining , all parts of foundry, building and testing,maintenance.
Who has a computer to order the parts on Rock Auto but doesn't have a printer to make a return label? Do you also not have indoor plumbing or a microwave oven?
I have a computer but no printer. I had one years ago, every time I went to use it (which wasn't that often) it was no end of issues and then inevitably the ink cartridges had always gone dry - it was then usually cheaper to just replace it than to just get new cartridges. If I need to print something I do it at work. Although being in the UK for as much as we do indeed get wrong the postal services here have a "print and bring a label with us" on collection option when sending an item. It's completely free and I do it quite often.
@@atikovi1 did it occur to you that SUPERFIFTHgear and myself are actually two different people? He is in the UK, I am in Tennessee. If you can't keep up with the conversation it's best not to join at all.
I don't have a pc or printer...I order my parts on my tablet and can use the printer at my local library to print labels, etc. Rock Auto is usually my last ditch effort, I get the majority of my parts thru 1AAuto.
That's a TOUGH master cylinder to find. I had a '71 Satellite Sebring Plus back in '90 or '91 with 10" manual brakes and needed to find one then. Took a while! Finally got a re-man at Pep Boys but it wasn't easy. Rock did the same exact thing to me on a M/Cyl back in 2016 or maybe 2015. It was for a power disc brake '71 Charger R/T. All the 'new' ones were the obvious Chinese ones like you got there. Noticeably so. The OE one I had was rounded at the front. I decided to get a re-man that looked just like my original one and lo and behold I got a brand new Chinese replacement instead. I didn't want it so I called support (they still had live cust.svc. then) and I told the guy it was defective, and they took it back. Generally, they won't argue about brake parts for safety concerns. It worked out anyway, I found an NORS Bendix from the '80's on ebay for about $30. Looked the same as the OE and new. BTW, on the papers I got from Rock then, there was a statement from them about being able to substitute parts that look different than the picture but 'function' the same. That's how they get out of it and why I had to claim it was defective to return it. Rock used to be able to get some nice quality old parts that were sitting on a shelf in Mom and Pop parts stores. That's all gone now. They just mostly sell off shore junk.
Yeah, we've all run into this situation. I am VERY leary of product photos now! But, it is very cool that you found that NOS Reman! Any concerns about the seals/grommets in that kit being so old? Can you find a rebuild kit for it?
EVERY single 'mom & pop' small parts store around me has been driven out of business over the last 10-12 years by Advance Auto, Vato Zone, or O'Reilly's. Carquest was absorbed by Advance and NAPA has the same junk as the other 3 but more expensive.
that's the problem with restoring old cars, is finding parts that are original, I was supposed to get my dad's model A when he died, my mom wouldn't let me have it, my brother took it apart and told me that I would have to figure out how to put it back together, then my mom passed in 2023, and my brother died in 2023, and my sister was given executor of the estate and she supposably give it to someone for $100 and I priced parts for that car, it was only good for parts, because to buy just brake parts was really high, and I have enough projects already that I don't need another, and the last time the car was on the road was about 45-50 years ago because my dad couldn't find parts for it so it sat in the garage and I have no idea where it is now I was not kept updated on anything
Some of that stuff is still available or could be fabbed up. I believe those had mechanical brakes. That the problem with stuff that old. The people that had it or know or want it are dying off. It's ALWAYS best to leave it together until you know you're going to work on it. A long time ago in the '80's I was in the Navy at San Diego. I used to go to the 'Auto Hobby Shop' on base to work on my car. It was like a fully equipped shop with multiple bays you could rent really cheap, they provided all the tools and you worked on your car. This one nut job dude there decided he was going to 'rebuild' his whole car. It was a GTO, nice shape, '68 or '69. Took the whole car COMPLETELY apart and left it in the stall. I'd watch him while he was doing it. Crazy! So I don't see him for over like 2 weeks. He ended up getting kicked out of the Navy and sold the car to some guy working there for like $50. In pieces! It was 'All there' just stripped down to a shell. Otherwise it was a nice running car, before he started. I mean you probably could have just reassembled it. People taking cars apart is the death of a lot of cars. Parts get lost, people forget.
@@vincemajestyk9497 if I would have got my dad's model A when he died like I was supposed to I would have tried to fix it up, but when my brother decided to take the engine out and tear out the interior, for me it would have been a waste of time, the old cars like that were not made like the later cars, they had a torque tube in them that I had never worked on, so I have no idea how it works, and the car was original, it had never been worked on other than my dad would drain the water out of it in the winter, the cars from the past were way easier to fix then they are now, the car I have now I had to take the front of the car apart just to get one bolt out of the intake, unfortunately where I live the cars I liked are all gone and I have seen people bring cars from the south and if they drive them in the winter within a couple of years they are all rusted out, I am now thinking of building my own car and making it easy to fix and comfortable to drive, we will see how things go in the near future
I had the same thing happen to me in the 90s with NAPA.... Only in reverse they gave me the drum master I needed the disc master... Lesson here now in 2024... You have to be smarter than your supplier cause they no longer have competent people with actual car knowledge working at there places...the few whom do have good people.... the part prices reflect the fact that they have to pay such people well to retain them.
Is it possible that the manufacturer is simply using the same body for the disk and drum brake master but changing the piston set up for the drum brake car?
No, the master cylinders are physically different, but to address the piston size, the piston sizes are different between drum and disc and early and late drum, late being ,70 up on an A-body.
That's what I think is going on. I think the pedal effort would be too high with the disk bore like 1 1/32 or 1 1/16 vs the 15/16. Easy to change the RPV inserts. The extra fluid volume intended for the disk calipers won't hurt anything. Those are easy MFR changes to make rather than a unique casting to sell MAYBE 100, just doesn't look right, but can be made to function. Although the parts look the same I believe they are different.
I find bargains, and I also find occasional stumbling blocks in that I have to search out exact part numbers that are valid for what I want. Help is about pitiful these days in some reseller/warehouse locations - all it takes is one bad label. How many vendors does RA have to interface with? Probably hundreds, if you drill down. I forget who does it, but there are one or two boutique services doing master cylinder work: get it bored, sleeved, honed and cleaned up - ready for a "rebuild" plunger assembly kit. Anyway, discs need pressure most, drums need volume - can't have a puny reservoir.
As the cars 'age out' or to minimize production costs they'll try to consolidate the catalog of parts wherever possible. I believe that part he got 'may' have worked if they used the correct piston and bore size for manual brakes and used residual valves either in the MC or WC's (They could be in either location by year or application). So, they can make one basic casting for a whole variety of applications and just change a few machining operations, add a couple press in brass inserts, you can cover 100's if not 1000's of applications. I recognized that as the 'standard' Mopar power disc brake Chinese casting that's been around since the '90's. You can tell by the little divot on the front where they mount it for the machining operations. NONE of the OE or '60's '70's or '80's parts have that. Besides, that is a COPY of a generic replacement form factor used on multiple makes.
Rock auto. We offer good better best parts. I wanted the cheap stuff for a car I was gonna scrap within a year. So i tallied up all my cheapest parts,and with shipping from all those sources it cost more than the "better" parts. I ended up going local and paid like 25$ more for about 350$ in parts,but I had them in my hand on the spot.
Why didn't you go with the remaned Cardone master cylinder? it's on closeout. You have to be careful when you buy new parts on rock auto especially with the old iron.
Because I couldn't be sure they wouldn't ship me the wrong unit again. Remember, that one also had the generic picture. I saw the actual Bendix unit I ended up purchasing.
Cardone is awful! Every single reman I ever got from them was a leaker. These things have been rebuilt a bazillion times by now. There are places where you can just take your OE and have the bore sleeved.
Rock Auto sucks! Some one at work had ordered a fuel pump assembly and the punch in the wrong country but right address and zip. They shipped it to some island in the East Indies, you would think that with the right zip code state and address that they would know that there is no zip or address of that nature in that country and not allow it to be shipped, there is no one to talk to, to correct it. It should have never been sent, costed me $135 dollars in shipping and another $16 dollars in international calls. They also sent me a recalled part on another order ( the new version was an update from the old) that must have been the last one on the shelf. Their customer service is nonexistent because you have no recourse and even the credit card company would let me dispute the charge because they can’t even communicate with them. Will never buy any of there shat parts again or use or recommend them ever ! FRA
Yeah i have a 90 honda and i need a Fuel Pressure Regulator ... its about as big as your thumb .. got one shipped to me had to be 4 times as big... no possible way it would fit. really hard to find parts anymore and they made millions of these cars. I'd do an LS Swap on it buy my state doesn't allow any type of engine swaps has to be the same as what came with it. heh nah couldn't do an LS Swap on it ... or maybe... heh .. count yourself as lucky you probably have the last one in the world
They don’t have a “referee” ? I’m in California and we can do engine swaps but it must retain all original smog equipment from the donor car. Then we call this referee thing and they inspect it and document the vin of the donor vehicle. They prefer that it be a California specific donor car but I’ve seen people use federal cars as the donor. It’s then smogged as the car the motor came from.
@@SpecialAgentJamesAki yeah i don't know this guy i know had a tiny v8 maybe 267 in a 81 monte carlo.. wanted to drop a 350 in it and they said no.. same with upgrading V6 Camaros to V8s .. they just won't let you unless its built before 1968
Yeah, I never cared much for buying from Rock Auto because they charge for shipping, which usually makes the “great prices” not so great … plus the aforementioned hassle return anything! I usually just stick with Amazon Prime. Good timely info as I was considering upgrading the MC to a “two pot” from a single on my ‘64 Barracuda. If it’s going to be a parts hassle, maybe I won’t.
I find that the places that don't charge for shipping have a higher price that equals $2 to $3 more then the RA part plus shipping. It comes down to a psychology thing. Can you feel good about a good price plus shipping, or do you feel better about an "all inclusive" price that is more expensive. I prefer to just pay the shipping. I don't expect a company to give me anything for free, including shipping. The company will recover the cost of shipping from you any way, one way or another.
Probably woulda been less trouble to rebuild the old one with new seals. Glad ya found one that works tho
Go ahead find a rebuild kit. Rebuilds are very rare in this day an age. I much prefer to rebuild, I just can't find the rebuild kits.
Yes, not only will they not sell a rebuild kit anymore, but the master cylinder had corrosion damage.
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage starting to wonder if tech has advanced enough to more easily reproduce older parts in a smaller scale.
hmm...perfect time to do a disc conversion, Mr.Tyler!
It's even better When you end up getting 3 master cylinders in and all three were pre-installed and all rusty in the boxes..
The first master cylinder is made out of chinesium.
All the counter knowledge is lost now too due to time. I've had a 1983 Case 580F since 1990 and being a 'Gray Market' tractor it has certain things that are specific to it. Luckily a friendly parts person years ago gave me a wealth of information that I wrote down (he's long since died) so now I can at least tell the new people at the counter 'not correct' when they order something that isn't right.
That was the one with the odd outriggers and the arm slid from side to side right? I've only ever seen 3 or 4 of them and that was years ago
@@joecummings1260 yes the outriggers are in a frame that allows the hoe to move from side to side for close work against a building. More of a gimmick I think seeing I have never loosened the pucks to shimmy it to either side. I'd be afraid to even try it now. I don't think that was just the 580F tho cause I think the E & C had the option also. It was different hoe altogether.
I'm dealing with this exact same issue... I pulled my great grandfather's 71 Barracuda convertible out of the barn after 27yrs... Only thing that was bad when stored was the master... Well I ordered from Rock Auto the all drum master... Picture on their website was wrong. Crazy thing was the part number (NM1493) was correct on the box and part... Ordered one from AutoZone (for double the price)...EXACT SAME THING! In fact it was probably produced in the exact same factory!
I'm pretty sure if it is described as new, it will be a disc master regardless.
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage yep, I get it. Fortunately I got a NOS on the way now. Crazy that you posted about the same issue right when I thought I was going crazy
Keep the master cylinder and get rid of the car !
It works everytime !
I had it happen twice now with Rock Auto, where even though you select all the correct information for your specific model, they will still list parts for the same car that are from different models. Second time was an expensive alternator, I'm now on their naughty list! oh boo hoo guess I'm back to supporting local haha
I got into it with Rockauto a few years ago when I was working on the engine for my Trans Am. I ordered a flexplate for a pontiac 400 and they sent me a flexplate for an oldsmobile 403. I went through a bunch of back and forth. I even used the flexplate manufacturers own website that states specifically, that the part number RA has listed for a Pontiac 400 is actually for an Olds 403. They refused to listen even though I provided links and screenshots and they denied my return.
They pull these parts from "member" warehouses, like a cooperative. If the warehouse shows stock and what should be the right part, RA has it shipped without even looking at it.
After a crash I needed the plastic M/C reservoir for a 03 Safari. Went online and nobody listed that; I'd have to buy a new M/C or find one in a junkyard. What the heck, it's old and a new M/C would be a smart move. All the 'cheap three' parts houses listed the same number so I went with the one I've had the best luck with. Got it here and the fitting size was too large on one line. They rechecked the listing, even trying a year older and newer but it was the same and there were no brake options on those cars so all used one MC. The other stores had the same wrong part as did NAPA and Rock Auto. Looking closely it seemed the reservoir was the same so I swapped it over and it worked. Don't know what I'll do when the M/C wears out since the internal parts were different too.
What I've found time and again is that the 'parts catalogs' are now being compiled by idiots who don't cross-check with the OEM people and they list an incorrect part as fitting when it doesn't. Nobody does anything about it when you point that out, even if you show them the OEM numbers are different than theirs. Nobody knows how to fix their own mistakes anymore and nobody even tries. There used to be at least one knowledgeable person at a parts store but now none of them know diddly other than how to look up stuff on their computer, and many of their staff have trouble doing even that much. You have to be your own expert now.
Just order a line size adaptor from mc master. Fit the new unit to the original lines with said adaptor. I had to adapt a few lines on my bmw when I replaced all the current hard lines. (Adapted to the top of the abs)
It's the same way with the fuel tank on a 1964 Galaxie. There's like a hundred dozen listings for a wagon tank, which is filled from a fender mounted filler... but they ALL use a picture of the tank from a sedan, which is rear-filled. There's no way they're compatible from what I can tell.
Someone needs to start a made in usa classic part manufacturer. If i wasnt in such sht medical shape id be rebuilding classic chicken trucks with quality of life updates like open source spyware data collection free gps, heated seats, and theft prevention transponders for the more top end items. Granted most people are sheep so probably not enough demand. Ffs id love to buy the license for subaru brats or el caminos, im sure the gov would never let em be sold now though.
P.s. The gov is not your friend, youll never vote yourself out of tyranny.
Nobody is willing to pay for quality. Even flag waving mouth breathers. Ask that crowd to put their money where their mouths are and you’ll get a bunch of excuses and rationalizations.
So Rock Auto doesn't "rock"! 😅
As one guy once said, "Two words: 'Made in America!'" LOL
Rock Auto sent me a “rebuilt” one with completely stripped threads for the brake line fittings and gave me a hard time that it was somehow my fault. First and last fine dealing with Rock Auto.
I suspect all the new ones use the disc brake casting, but with the correct residual valves for your application.
There is not much difference between a disc brake master cylinder and a drum brake master cylinder. They function identical. There may be a bore size difference. It's something you should easily be able to measure
You should do a lot more learning about brake systems before for making such false definitive statments. There is also the fact one has the residual valves, and the other doesn't. Run a disk brake M/C for a 4 wheel drum setup, and your wheel cylinders will constantly leak & left atmospheric moisture in to the system. One or 2 rain storms and you will be replacing your entire brake system, including hard lines due to rust. Hope you like replacing wheel cylinders every few months as they rust up solid. Plus due to the constant leak you will have a spongy pedal in the best case, or have to pump your brakes in order to stop in the worst case.
THE R 1 BEFORE THE PART # 1516 MEANS R FOR REBUILT AND THE 1 MEANS FIRST TIME REBUILD.. JUST THOUGHT YOU MIGHT WANT TO KNOW, TAKE CARE.
That's very informative. Thank you.
It used to be easy to return stuff to them but scam artists ruined it for everyone. Its possible the master you want is NLA and superceded to what you received.
I think I’ve ordered my last parts from Rock Auto. I just ordered rear brake pads for my pickup and they were about half the price of what the local parts chains/stores wanted to charge. By the time they tacked on shipping I was pretty much at the price of the local parts stores. The only way it would be worth ordering from Rock Auto is if the sales tax was eliminated.
That disk/drum cylinder does not have a RESIDUAL CHECK VALVE in the front section, required for 6psi wheel cylinder cup to wall retention.
Correct.
A big problem I found is that the digital parts books don't have alternates quite often, or just wrong listings and those folks that keyed in those parts years ago, their mistakes stick. Went to the ford dealer for a part because nobody had the correct part, they had one in stock yay. guy brings it out and its the same wrong part. Chat with the guy about all these parts irregularities and why ford even shows the wrong part for a ford of all things even though the questions asked are correct regarding equipment installed. Turns out theres a 3rd party company that compiles these digital catalogs, and everybody who uses them (so Ford, Rockauto, Napa, Carquest) will have the same wrong parts listed. Add in mid-year changes and you got a real problem when old parts books show the little foot notes to reference that say hey, if its this, use that instead. All nearly all those foot notes never made it to the digital versions. Great.
R1 means ' real one'!
It's not just them, I purchased a a/c receiver dryer from a chevy store. I went by my original part number and the picture on their web site. Needless to say I received one that was completely different and wouldn't work. Thanks GM
Worked there Saint Joesph Michigan plant 1974 - 2000 slapped a whole bunch of them castings.
1978 we ran foundry OT in cooler months and had huge piles out in back field that we used magnet on crane to fill totes for later production.
Unfortunately rain caused pitting in bores so that was stopped.
Then if 75 degrees out side it was a 138 in cool areas of foundry.
And lots of OT.
Did 10hr days 7 days for 2 months.
Worked in all departments over years from machining , all parts of foundry, building and testing,maintenance.
If its pigeons on the roof, they're probably doing that thing with their necks......
I thought about that...
Who has a computer to order the parts on Rock Auto but doesn't have a printer to make a return label? Do you also not have indoor plumbing or a microwave oven?
I have a computer but no printer. I had one years ago, every time I went to use it (which wasn't that often) it was no end of issues and then inevitably the ink cartridges had always gone dry - it was then usually cheaper to just replace it than to just get new cartridges. If I need to print something I do it at work. Although being in the UK for as much as we do indeed get wrong the postal services here have a "print and bring a label with us" on collection option when sending an item. It's completely free and I do it quite often.
@@SuperFIFTHGEAR In the UK? I thought the video says Tennessee?
@@atikovi1 did it occur to you that SUPERFIFTHgear and myself are actually two different people? He is in the UK, I am in Tennessee. If you can't keep up with the conversation it's best not to join at all.
He just wrote, "I have a computer but no printer." as if he posted the video. No problem.
I don't have a pc or printer...I order my parts on my tablet and can use the printer at my local library to print labels, etc. Rock Auto is usually my last ditch effort, I get the majority of my parts thru 1AAuto.
Tyler, what brake fluid do you recommend?
That's a TOUGH master cylinder to find. I had a '71 Satellite Sebring Plus back in '90 or '91 with 10" manual brakes and needed to find one then. Took a while! Finally got a re-man at Pep Boys but it wasn't easy.
Rock did the same exact thing to me on a M/Cyl back in 2016 or maybe 2015. It was for a power disc brake '71 Charger R/T. All the 'new' ones were the obvious Chinese ones like you got there. Noticeably so. The OE one I had was rounded at the front. I decided to get a re-man that looked just like my original one and lo and behold I got a brand new Chinese replacement instead. I didn't want it so I called support (they still had live cust.svc. then) and I told the guy it was defective, and they took it back. Generally, they won't argue about brake parts for safety concerns. It worked out anyway, I found an NORS Bendix from the '80's on ebay for about $30. Looked the same as the OE and new. BTW, on the papers I got from Rock then, there was a statement from them about being able to substitute parts that look different than the picture but 'function' the same. That's how they get out of it and why I had to claim it was defective to return it. Rock used to be able to get some nice quality old parts that were sitting on a shelf in Mom and Pop parts stores. That's all gone now. They just mostly sell off shore junk.
Yeah, we've all run into this situation. I am VERY leary of product photos now! But, it is very cool that you found that NOS Reman! Any concerns about the seals/grommets in that kit being so old? Can you find a rebuild kit for it?
The rubber seems fine. You can still find master cylinder kits with some extensive searching.
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Do you think you'll rebuild the original at some point?
Why not convert it to disc brakes?
Costs $$ and I'd rather do that on a 2dr with a V8.
I guess I'm lucky, we have a couple of small local chain stores that still have the old school counter's staff. I try to buy from them when I can.
EVERY single 'mom & pop' small parts store around me has been driven out of business over the last 10-12 years by Advance Auto, Vato Zone, or O'Reilly's. Carquest was absorbed by Advance and NAPA has the same junk as the other 3 but more expensive.
A true brand new old stock unit ! Too few and far between for these old gems ! ✌
Why I do not use Rockauto
Read about to many dissapoints
that's the problem with restoring old cars, is finding parts that are original, I was supposed to get my dad's model A when he died, my mom wouldn't let me have it, my brother took it apart and told me that I would have to figure out how to put it back together, then my mom passed in 2023, and my brother died in 2023, and my sister was given executor of the estate and she supposably give it to someone for $100 and I priced parts for that car, it was only good for parts, because to buy just brake parts was really high, and I have enough projects already that I don't need another, and the last time the car was on the road was about 45-50 years ago because my dad couldn't find parts for it so it sat in the garage and I have no idea where it is now I was not kept updated on anything
Some of that stuff is still available or could be fabbed up. I believe those had mechanical brakes. That the problem with stuff that old. The people that had it or know or want it are dying off. It's ALWAYS best to leave it together until you know you're going to work on it. A long time ago in the '80's I was in the Navy at San Diego. I used to go to the 'Auto Hobby Shop' on base to work on my car. It was like a fully equipped shop with multiple bays you could rent really cheap, they provided all the tools and you worked on your car. This one nut job dude there decided he was going to 'rebuild' his whole car. It was a GTO, nice shape, '68 or '69. Took the whole car COMPLETELY apart and left it in the stall. I'd watch him while he was doing it. Crazy! So I don't see him for over like 2 weeks. He ended up getting kicked out of the Navy and sold the car to some guy working there for like $50. In pieces! It was 'All there' just stripped down to a shell. Otherwise it was a nice running car, before he started. I mean you probably could have just reassembled it. People taking cars apart is the death of a lot of cars. Parts get lost, people forget.
@@vincemajestyk9497 if I would have got my dad's model A when he died like I was supposed to I would have tried to fix it up, but when my brother decided to take the engine out and tear out the interior, for me it would have been a waste of time, the old cars like that were not made like the later cars, they had a torque tube in them that I had never worked on, so I have no idea how it works, and the car was original, it had never been worked on other than my dad would drain the water out of it in the winter, the cars from the past were way easier to fix then they are now, the car I have now I had to take the front of the car apart just to get one bolt out of the intake, unfortunately where I live the cars I liked are all gone and I have seen people bring cars from the south and if they drive them in the winter within a couple of years they are all rusted out, I am now thinking of building my own car and making it easy to fix and comfortable to drive, we will see how things go in the near future
I had the same thing happen to me in the 90s with NAPA.... Only in reverse they gave me the drum master I needed the disc master... Lesson here now in 2024... You have to be smarter than your supplier cause they no longer have competent people with actual car knowledge working at there places...the few whom do have good people.... the part prices reflect the fact that they have to pay such people well to retain them.
Is it possible that the manufacturer is simply using the same body for the disk and drum brake master but changing the piston set up for the drum brake car?
No, the master cylinders are physically different, but to address the piston size, the piston sizes are different between drum and disc and early and late drum, late being ,70 up on an A-body.
That's what I think is going on. I think the pedal effort would be too high with the disk bore like 1 1/32 or 1 1/16 vs the 15/16. Easy to change the RPV inserts. The extra fluid volume intended for the disk calipers won't hurt anything. Those are easy MFR changes to make rather than a unique casting to sell MAYBE 100, just doesn't look right, but can be made to function. Although the parts look the same I believe they are different.
I find bargains, and I also find occasional stumbling blocks in that I have to search out exact part numbers that are valid for what I want. Help is about pitiful these days in some reseller/warehouse locations - all it takes is one bad label. How many vendors does RA have to interface with? Probably hundreds, if you drill down.
I forget who does it, but there are one or two boutique services doing master cylinder work: get it bored, sleeved, honed and cleaned up - ready for a "rebuild" plunger assembly kit.
Anyway, discs need pressure most, drums need volume - can't have a puny reservoir.
These companies are being told to phase out older parts cause people will not buy this new crap because it's so unreliable unlike the older stuff
As the cars 'age out' or to minimize production costs they'll try to consolidate the catalog of parts wherever possible. I believe that part he got 'may' have worked if they used the correct piston and bore size for manual brakes and used residual valves either in the MC or WC's (They could be in either location by year or application). So, they can make one basic casting for a whole variety of applications and just change a few machining operations, add a couple press in brass inserts, you can cover 100's if not 1000's of applications. I recognized that as the 'standard' Mopar power disc brake Chinese casting that's been around since the '90's. You can tell by the little divot on the front where they mount it for the machining operations. NONE of the OE or '60's '70's or '80's parts have that. Besides, that is a COPY of a generic replacement form factor used on multiple makes.
Wrong auto 100% sux.
Appears to be cast aluminum.
Probably is. Didn't know they were doing them in aluminum.
Rock Auto Part: $80.
Shipping $38.
Part arrives in torn & crumpled factory packaging.
Part looks questionable.
Rock auto.
We offer good better best parts.
I wanted the cheap stuff for a car I was gonna scrap within a year.
So i tallied up all my cheapest parts,and with shipping from all those sources it cost more than the "better" parts.
I ended up going local and paid like 25$ more for about 350$ in parts,but I had them in my hand on the spot.
Why didn't you go with the remaned Cardone master cylinder? it's on closeout. You have to be careful when you buy new parts on rock auto especially with the old iron.
Because I couldn't be sure they wouldn't ship me the wrong unit again. Remember, that one also had the generic picture. I saw the actual Bendix unit I ended up purchasing.
Cardone is awful! Every single reman I ever got from them was a leaker. These things have been rebuilt a bazillion times by now. There are places where you can just take your OE and have the bore sleeved.
U try nm1493?
That's why i quit using rock auto. too many wrong parts and difficult to return, plus you have to wait. rock auto is a joke.
Rock Auto sucks! Some one at work had ordered a fuel pump assembly and the punch in the wrong country but right address and zip. They shipped it to some island in the East Indies, you would think that with the right zip code state and address that they would know that there is no zip or address of that nature in that country and not allow it to be shipped, there is no one to talk to, to correct it. It should have never been sent, costed me $135 dollars in shipping and another $16 dollars in international calls. They also sent me a recalled part on another order ( the new version was an update from the old) that must have been the last one on the shelf. Their customer service is nonexistent because you have no recourse and even the credit card company would let me dispute the charge because they can’t even communicate with them. Will never buy any of there shat parts again or use or recommend them ever ! FRA
Yeah i have a 90 honda and i need a Fuel Pressure Regulator ... its about as big as your thumb .. got one shipped to me had to be 4 times as big... no possible way it would fit. really hard to find parts anymore and they made millions of these cars. I'd do an LS Swap on it buy my state doesn't allow any type of engine swaps has to be the same as what came with it. heh nah couldn't do an LS Swap on it ... or maybe... heh .. count yourself as lucky you probably have the last one in the world
They don’t have a “referee” ? I’m in California and we can do engine swaps but it must retain all original smog equipment from the donor car. Then we call this referee thing and they inspect it and document the vin of the donor vehicle. They prefer that it be a California specific donor car but I’ve seen people use federal cars as the donor. It’s then smogged as the car the motor came from.
@@SpecialAgentJamesAki yeah i don't know this guy i know had a tiny v8 maybe 267 in a 81 monte carlo.. wanted to drop a 350 in it and they said no.. same with upgrading V6 Camaros to V8s .. they just won't let you unless its built before 1968
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Hmmm Chinese parts deception, say it ain't so! 😮
Yeah, I never cared much for buying from Rock Auto because they charge for shipping, which usually makes the “great prices” not so great … plus the aforementioned hassle return anything! I usually just stick with Amazon Prime.
Good timely info as I was considering upgrading the MC to a “two pot” from a single on my ‘64 Barracuda. If it’s going to be a parts hassle, maybe I won’t.
I find that the places that don't charge for shipping have a higher price that equals $2 to $3 more then the RA part plus shipping. It comes down to a psychology thing. Can you feel good about a good price plus shipping, or do you feel better about an "all inclusive" price that is more expensive. I prefer to just pay the shipping. I don't expect a company to give me anything for free, including shipping. The company will recover the cost of shipping from you any way, one way or another.