Better CHAINLINE??? 1 x 11, 1 x 12 Adjustment, Options🔥with Shimano XT M8000
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2015
- Chainline adjustment options when using a threaded BB #mountainbike or #road frame. Testing is
Based on a 1 x 11 drivetrain, Shimano XT M8000 but all this applies to 1 x 12 drivetrains as well.
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Shimano SLX CS-M7000 Cassette 11s, 11-46t - bit.ly/2xX8DCX
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Shimano SLX SL-M7000 11-Speed Shifter - bit.ly/2P7xqhk
But I would recommend the XT shifter
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Truvativ/SRAM Team GXP English Threaded BB for 68/73mm - bit.ly/2ZmPwBt
SRAM DUB Bottom Bracket English Threaded 68-73mm - bit.ly/2TVmcga
Park Tool CWP-7C Universal Crank Puller - bit.ly/2MJe956
Park Tool CCP-22C Crank Puller for Square Cranks - bit.ly/33UHOxM
Park Tool CT-3.3 5-12 Speed Chain Tool - bit.ly/2oZWSuz
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Park BBT-9 BB Tool Shimano Hollowtech II - bit.ly/2uNKcqv
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Try reducing front chain line. Best to achieve by moving chainring inwards by spacing it off the cranks. Can always cheat by moving BB spacers to non drive side, this is useful for 1x on 26ers
is there any extra space needed on the freehub body when switching from a 10sp to 11sp cassette, or is the "carrier" of the cassette the same length, just the biggest cog is moved out away from it closer to the spokes as u mentioned. new wheelset has 8,9,10sp freehub. the previous one supporting also 11sp had some additional spacer there used w 10sp, not sure if that was to accommodate for wider 8 and 9 speed cassette or also for wider 11sp. thx
I’m running a self converted 1x12 xt crankset with 52 mm chainline on my 2018 trek procaliber 9.7. Went from an 11-42 xt to an 11-46 Sunrace cassette but never jumped while backpedaling on either of them.
Hey, thanks for this video. I ride a Hei Hei and was thinking of doing the exact same thing. I’m now on 13speed and chain line is a real problem. You confirmed my thinking and gave me a good idea how to do it. Stay Rad! 🤙🏼
My chain does not drop while backpedaling on 51T cog with Shimano Deore M5100 11-51T cassette on 135mm OLD HG hub. 1x11. HG601 chain. Chainline set to 47mm using spacers. Short 425mm chainstay.
I run the 11-42 cassette with 32 tooth chain ring up front. I'm using the xt group set with Kmc chain and have know is with back pedaling. I also tried with 11spd xtr chain and no issue.
Did you try to put a spacer (or a bigger one if you aleady have one) between the freehub body and the cassette?
I have the same issue with my M7000 and i am interested in knowing if you were able to solve it.
Where and how do you measure the chain line ? is it the middle of the bb to the inside of the chain ring ?
Were you able to fix the chain dropping??? Please share the video how you fix it. Thanx
I had the back pedal issue with a kmc chain but changed to a shimano xt chain and it now doesn't happen - this is with xt 11-42 cassette and xt 30t chain ring
have you tried using a round chainring instead of the oval one just to see the difference
Hello LoveMTB, is it possible to mount a XTR FC-M9120 crank on a non boost frame. Background of the question is that I want to buy a new crank for a non boost frame. And wanna use possibly in some years at the next bike/frame. Greats and Thanks a Lot... ✌🏻😇
Hi, the ideal chainline for a xt m8000 transmision ? 49 or 52 mm. ? mi frame box motor is 92 mm. pressfit. and y use a chainring oval 32T one up conponents. and cassette 11-42
Hello, can I upgrade my deore xt M8000 from 11 to 12 speed microspline freehub
Heyy i just want to now how Many link on thé chaîn 116 or 138 ?
Is it normal that the lower chain line is a little closer on the rear wheel than the upper line when you are in the biggest cogs?
I tested a brand new bike with SRAM NX 12 speed and noticed dropped gears when backpedaling. I was amazed. If I spec the same bike with M8100 or M9100 I wonder what will happen.
I would like to move my chainline inward like you did here and I have 4mm to work with. But the bolts thread directly into the FC-m8000 spider. The bolts appear to be 10mm long so I would need to replace them with 14mm long chainring bolts but I can't find any. Do you know if that exists? Do I have any other option for spacing the ring from the spider?
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos BTW
i have this setup and when im on the 24t it always wants to go to 28t and wont stay
low and hi adjustments are good and b screw is good
any ideas
Very well explained video.
Hey do you know if the new shimano m8000 XT cogs will fit on a hub that had 9 speeds? (The brand is unknown so far)
Hi, I had the same problem on my m8000 drivetrain although mine is 2x11. I found the info on some forum that someone solved it by changing the chain into SRAM X1. So I did so and it really worked. Chain stays on the biggest sprocket while reverse pedaling.
Good luck ✌🏻
This is mostly in the cassette-chain combination. I have SRAM NX with the cheapest SRAM 11s chain and a much worse chainline than you have, and it mostly does not drop when back pedalling when chain is on the biggest sprocket, but when I tried a Sunrace cassette with the same size sprockets and all other things the same, the chain dropped every single time under the same condition as with NX. Needless to say, the Sunrace cassette did not stay on the bike for long.
Hello, I have my chain scratching on the monoplaten between the 1st gear and the 4th gear, I have an 11/42 cassette and a 28-tooth tray. mounted on an X0 at the back and a XX in front. it rubs especially when I'm climbing. Do you have any advices ? thanks.
I just purchased a kona process 111 2016 and i'm having the same issue. The chain line is too extreme for my taste. Like you proved there really isn't much room to play with compounded with a press fit bb. I thought of facing the bb and putting a spacer on the non drive side but I don't think I want to go through the hassle. I may just send the bike back. Maybe thats why there selling these bikes for 50 to 55% off msrp. They went with a shimano drivetrain on the 2017's. I wonder if they changed the chain line. I have a 2017 salsa pony rustler sram 1 by 11 with no such issues. It is also boost.
I just bought the XT M
8000 cassette and when I tried to fit all the cog's on a 10 speed free hub I could not get all of the cog's on. I just bought the shimano 11 speed shifter and the 11 speed GS M8000 derailleur as well. I was under the impression that the 11 speed cassette would fit onto a 10 speed free hub. Am I mistaken or did I complete the assembly improperly?
I think he cassette has a role in this, too. The cog is simply too thin to hold an angled chain at such extremes. However, it's really something that isn't a big deal IMO, I've had this issue before. I just let my chain break in a little and it eliminated some of the backpedal miss shift on the larger end of the cassette. Hope this helps.
I'm running 11-36 xt with 32 tooth chainring no back pedal issues. Chainline not perfect though. Do has some grinding
is it worth trying to size a chain to the length you need instead?
Thx for reply
On non clutch derailleurs the chain doesnt change on backwards
Dear Sir
I'm in trouble now
2x10 to 1x11
but my crankset maybe cassette 3 or 4th
Should I change anything?
Where did you get the shim i have the the same issue
I think it also depends on the size of the chainring. My 11-42 extended 10 speed cassette drops on the 42 with the 30T narrow wide ring. But it stays on with 34T in the front. I think thats becaus the angle of the chain gets better and than the chain is not touched by the teeth when pack paddeling....
in fact i am not able to push a 34 ....
Now it works also with the 30T.I just installed the 2,5mm spacer at the crankbearing from the drive side to the nondrive side. No backpedaling issue....
Are you planning on keeping it spaced at 48mm? I have a triple crankset with a chainline of 47.5mm on the middle ring and was just thinking of using that with a narrow wide chainring instead of buying a crankset with a 50.4mm chainline.
I bought the new KCNC 9-52 cassette from R2 Bike and the chain falls in the last 3 big cogs when doing backpedal. I put on a new chain and he keeps doing it. Crank at the front is a 32t boost 3mm offset. My bike is a Specialized Epic Expert 2018 1x12 full Eagle XX1 and had no issues with the Eagle 10-50. It seems as the chain looks crossed. Somebody told me to use a 6mm offset chainring other told me to use a 28t instead of a 32t. Also I don't know why the last 3 cogs skipped the chain on torque when the chain is new
If you have a non-boost bike, then swapping for boost chainring could cause issues. If you haven't swapped chainring, then it might have been derailleur tuning that was causing the chain to skip, or maybe your chain was already too worn for a new kcnc cassette. But if you mean chain was dropping on backpedal, then this could have been chainline change(different offset chainring) or teeth profiling that was particularly incompatible by coincidence with your current chain. LoveMTB did compare 3 chains for backpedal, and Sram PC-X1 series seem to deal best with the problem.
How is the durability on your drivetrain? (specially the cassette), I'm thinking in a 30t chainring with 10-42 Shimano cassette (adding a 10t sprocket of OneUp) but I'm worried about needing to change the chain and cassette too often. I like 1x drivetrains but I don't want to change the cassette every 6 months or something like that. Could you say that a 1x drivetrain wears 2 or 3 times faster than a 2x10?
Take advantage of reverse paddle chain slip to overcome derailleur shift delay.
Hey. The same problem at 1x11 and no solution. I will try the 6mm spacer.. will see. I have 10mm to frame. Have 32 to 52
Do you think a longer chainline (like on a 29er) will cause less of a problem somehow?
Front x2 and no problem. Ideal chainline. 1-7 rear - 2 front. 7-11 rear - 1 front.
Always!
Hi friend. I have an XT-M8000 group set and I put a spacer (2 mm) in left side of bottom bracked how you suggested. My chainline is upon 6th cog and only drops when in 42t cog. Thanks for the tip.
Hi again. My BB is pressfit too (BB 71-41A) but my frame has 89.9 mm. So the BB needs a spacer anyway but it came on right side. I just change side and ...voilà. Again, thanks.
hey, I don't know if you're riding this bike anymore, but it's possible to use cassette washer too if it's frame allows to do that and chain doesn't rub a chainstay/dropout while pedalling the smallest gear.
@@LoveMTB yeah, using of xdr driver with this spacer will be better in this case. What kind of problems you foresee see if its xd driver?
so whats the cut off 36,38,40 ect. 36 is fine 42 doesnt work, anyone tried find a middle ground?
muito bons seus videos....não posso ter uma bike dessas mais conhecer é sempre bom ..
set your chainline at the 4th cog down from the top.
meaning you need 2-4 mm chainring bolt spacers.
this seems to be a 11 speed issue, probably from these thin shains, mod the chainline or go back to 10 speed.
Same happened to me when I installed my 11-46 cassette. Chain would fall from the 46 sprocket. I played with the indexing a bit and now I've got it where it doesn't go back when back pedaling, had to waste some time and nerves though :D
What do you mean by indexing?
setting up the limit screws. It still falls from the biggest sprocket but only after a few revelations, so I can still backpedal a bit when climbing in the granny gear if needed.@@uncle-k3m
Question... is this a thing made from shimano? Or is a SRAM XX1 cassette as wide as a Shimano 11 speed? Because some of a mountainbike community say, that a 11 speed cassette from Sram work with a 11 speed RD. But if the trigger give more or less way that couldn't work.
Hi , can anyone tell me where I can buy a bcd96 chainring 32t or 34t for less than 40 dollars because I can only find nw bdc96 for lore than 60 dollars
I have the same issue with a 1 x 10 shimano xt ( 11x36) running a KMC with 36 t ( narrow Wide )
try to adjust the B- tension screw
if not maybe the Hanger is not 100 % Parallel to the frame ?
so you recommend i try a 11 speed chain ? on a 10 speed cassette
thanks for info .
was driving me nuts , i adjusted high and low and fiddled with b-tension screw ,
New SLX cassette 11-36 , New KMC chain Gold color , New ebay 36T DECKAS narrow wide chain ring ,
Used XT Derailleur
It drops because when you pedal backwards there is no guide pulley. Effectively the top of the chainring is the only guide and it is too far from the cassette with that chain angle.
You can also try a longer chain. This will reduce the chain tension on the bottom of the run. I wouldn't waste the money on it now but when it comes time to replace it, increase it by 3 links and see if the problem is solved and your shifting is still crisp.
It drops cause ramping on the sprockets,, tention on chain 10 and11 have too tention add a link till it don't drop[
I just upgraded. 1x11. 34 crank 11-52 cassette and a deore 5100 and the deore 11s shifter. It makes it all the way to the 40t on back pedaling, the 46 and 52 it's a hell nah 😆.. the derailleur also hates it
@@LoveMTB it's centered between 7,8. It's the LANXUANR on a normal 8-10 hg freehub
I got the cassette for $30 on Amazon, gonna try it first before getting the deore cassette.
I'm also still using a square taper bottom bracket, I'll probably invest in the deore crank in a year lol
what hub are you using?
This video feels like it's been made by me.
2010 Epic, switched from 3x9 to 1x11.
I have already:
- used the granny-gear, more inward fixation, with a 28T chainring;
- used 3(!!!!)mm spacers between the chainring and the crank arm;
- flipped the BB spacer to the opposite side.
End result - it stays on the 2nd, 37T sprocket. It still jumps off the 42T.
My guess is that this is caused by the ramps on the back of the 42.
There is a last option remaining, found online a 28T, 64pcd chainring, that is 5mm offseted inwards. That would solve the issue, but it costs a fortune, so not just yet.
The issue is that it's a girl's bike. Went to 1x11 to simplify life for her. Now, the following thing happens: she's climbing a ramp on the 42, she stops, for any reason. She wants to continue, so she backpedals half a crank turn (totally natural, normal and fine) to get ready for starting off a standstill. Then all hell breaks loose.
At least she has a great dad!
Thanks for the vid and the dialogue, all the best!
I just went from a 1x9 to 1x10 and now my chain drops off the chainring on the 2 lowest gears while pedaling forward. I have no bb spacers on the drive side and cant adjust the chainring cuz its center lock. I have a feeling I'll have to stick with the 1x9
@@LoveMTB idk how to explain but I walked away out of frustration then when I came back it all worked perfect. Well see how it behaves on the trail
I have the same problem, how I can solve it? Please help me
Im surely going to experience the same for a yelli screamy 2014 with a 32t AB oval. Chainline is at 55mm already, just to clear the CS. I haven't installed an m8k 11-42 yet. Great heads up. I'm thinking of instances of backpedalling in the extreme low gear range... can't think of any yet....
+LoveMTB Ive finally installed my 11-42 with 32t oval in a YS. Chain movement on backpedal only happens in 42t (ie gear 11). the rest are ok. my chain is hg-701.
Hi, in my bike is the XT M8000 1x11 and the chain doesn't drop even in the highest 42T. Backpedal or not. In front I have 30T. The chain is HG-701.
Trek Farley 5. Today it was freezing weather and I had dirt in the chain. The chain dropped on the backpedal so It happens in my bike too but it's less likely.
Did you attempt a 1x10 on your Kona Process? I have the same bike and am looking at moving to a 30t NW chainring and 11-42 10 speed from the stock 2x10 (XT M786 SGS). From your description of the problem, I'm hoping a 10 speed won't produce the extreme chain line that we see with the 11 speed.
@@LoveMTB Like you, I would like it to function perfectly. I'm hoping to avoid chain slippage when back pedaling. Thanks for the input!
@@LoveMTB I've actually watched that video, along with many of your other videos. Hopefully it won't be an issue, or at least an issue that I can't easily overcome. Thanks again for the help. Cheers!
Hoping someone will chime into this post. I'm running into this exact issue. Just converted from a 2x9 to 1x11 (Shimano SLX). I have a 73mm BB shell, and the Shimano instructions tell me to put the 2.5mm spacer on the drive side, none on the non-drive side. Does that mean I'm off center already and have room to play? Can I simply pull the 2.5mm spacer? Do I need to put it on the non-drive side? Or can buy some combination that adds up to 2.5mm? Thanks!
I believe Shimano sells 1.8mm and 0.7mm spacers so you can fine tune the spacers from left to right but as LoveMTB stated, you need it to total 2.5mm in order to fit the spindle width properly.
@@LoveMTB Just to clarify, You can actually put the 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive to able to get your chain line close to the center instead of putting the 2.5mm space on the drive side? Is this going to damage my drivetrain.
hm, will fit the sunrace 11-42 10 spd to my 2016 giant reign 27.5 2 ltd tomorrow. Already have the ab oval 34t. bike just a couple of weeks old, but wanted to ditch front mech.
tubeless and ditch front mech and oem chain rings saved about 800g. Think I will save some grammes on the sunrace too.
hope it will backpedal. I have a lowe mrp with bashguard, no top guide yet
Hi, turns out my chain is too short. Maxed out extender screw. So ill have to not do any jumps in 1st gear tomorrow 😂
It goes down when backpedal, need spacers as you did. Other than that it shifts good, works quite well with the clutch. Had to remove the mrp 2x chain device or it would lock up when upshifting several at once.
any update on how the 1x10 feels? I am right now converting to similar setip with AB Oval and Sunrace ;)
is there an option of adding a spacer behind the cassette? I think there are 1mm to 1.5mm spacers that some people use for lower speed sprockets. I have the same issue with my 1x11 speed and I'm thinking of ways to fix the issue aside from adjusting the chainring.
@@LoveMTB is this a fitting issue locking the sprocket? I'm planning to do both just to offset the crosschaining
You can try that, but check if its enough space from smallest cog to dropout first.
I use 2x11. No problem. Faster climbing.
Hey there, I have similar problem and was wondering if it would be possible to put a spacer behind the cassette? I have gone as close to frame as I can go with chainring
Cassette spacer is a no go unfortunately
@@LoveMTB thank you for the feedback
I've installed xt m8000 RD and 46 cassette with xtr shifter and chain with 48mm chainline with zero problem when back pedaling. I can't compare it with other chain like sram or kmc because I don't have them. The xtr chain is really worth it!
Edit: forgot to mention I run 46t narrow- wide chainring
LoveMTB your chain line is good. I hope that you compare this again with an XTR chain in the future. Maybe it will help us to make future purchases.
How do you measure which rear cog is your chainring lined with ? Just visually ?
@@LoveMTB one more question, in your opinion how much can you you safely shim the chainring? Is 6mm still ok or is it too much to handle the forces?
Hi Im wondering if its okay to just use 1 spacer on the non drive side of the bb would help the chain line? I'm currently on a 1 by 10 speed 11-42T with 32T chainring. BB shell is 68mm
Do I need to follow the standard on Hallowtech II, which is to add two 2.5 spacers on the right and one on the left?
The thing is that my mechanic removed the plastic resin which was supposed to be inside.
@@LoveMTB alright I'll do just that. Just that im only using one spacer on the non-drive side and that's it. No spacers at the drive side. That may be the cause of the grinding sound coming from the cranckset or my BB needs replacing?
I have a 1x11 SRAM nx drive chain and it's driving me nuts! The chain line is dead straight on the 6th gear (ie dead centre of the cassette). I have the same back pedalling issue in the two largest gears only, where the chain will drop on to the next adjacent smaller cog. This isn't the issue for me however. The main problem is the noise I get from the crank (raceface aeffect) when in these gears. It's a very audible noise in these gears when I have no noise in the other gears - clearly because of the distorted chain line. I cannot remove any chainline space to shift the crank pulley in towards the centre of the bike as even removing a 1mm spacer gives me play. Out of ideas!
@@LoveMTB no thanks ! I can only imagine the problem escalated ! I think I'm going to try and add a BB spacer to the non drive side crank arm and remove one of the chain line spacers from the drive side. If I can get 1-2mm in towards the centre of the bike I think this may resolve / lessen the noise
@@LoveMTB I will do. I'll get some videos uploaded. I think the smaller cogs are more forgiving. Worth a try. Just don't want the raceface crank teeth to wear prematurely !
Will the M8000 crank work with 10 speed xt? I will run the 11 speed chainring 32 tooth.
Chain line is good but now I have broke 2 sets of crank bolts! Because the use of washers to move that chain line in it weakens them. This is using the new xt / slx cranks I wonder using the older style crank it has more strength since the crank bolts goes all the way thru
I think the "ideal" chainline should sit around most used sprocket as in 1x there will be always an extreme on top and bottom.
True but if you mess up too much with it the chain/ cassette will get noticeably noisier at the extremes. Especially high gears/ smaller cogs.
Nice video, if you have longer bolts would it help instead of spacers ? or do longer bolts affect the chainline ? thanks
This is a custom chainring issue, cranset along with a chain. This doesn't happen with any of the 1x11 Shimanos wheather 9,8 or 7 series. BB spacers have to be right, goes from 135 to 150, they have a perfect function. Same with 2x (and 3x I guess).
Was this Kona non-boost? What is the optimal chain line for an M8000 1x11 11-42t cassette on boost rear end?
still 49 mm
Hi, do you have boost on the rear wheel,does this affect the chain line ?
LoveMTB Thank you
I am thinking about getting this set up for my hardtail would you recommend it for a budget 1 by 11 group has it been perforating good?
M5100 is brilliant for 120
I installed this on a Kona Honzo TI. I am not experiencing and of the back pedal issues you are showing in this video. I am using the top of the line Shimano chain, maybe that has something to do with it?
Thanks for the cool tutorial videos. You are sharing a lot of great info. The main reason I was replying is to share my findings as well. The Honzo TI has a shorter CS than your process, so the angle should be steeper. I would believe that would make the drop worse? I did set this up with the recommended 2 link removal, maybe thats it. I hope this doesn't happen when the chain starts to stretch.
damnn.. this is my problem with my shimano xt 11 speed too, my chainring almost very close to the frame and not advisable to put thin spacer to crank...but anyway it does not give any problem in climbing using biggest cogs..
Unfortunately it is pretty ccommon for 11s especially Shimano, has to do with cassette/ cog design also
Hello. Is it possible to use a sram cassette 11speed with a shimano derailleur?? thx
+LoveMTB thx!
queda muy cruzada parece ?
Hi, I have M8000 too...on my 46t dont drop... But on 37T is droping the chain, and when I'm backpedaling on 11 T and 13 T The chain want to get up.
@@LoveMTB 11speed cn hg701 11speed
@@LoveMTB Thank you, usefull video...yep...you really made me understand ...that problem of the shimano chain.
@@LoveMTB Do you still have shimano XT ? i want to know how your transmision is working on first and second sproket ( backpedaling) ( 11T and 13T )
Yes. Shimano instructs installers to set the center of the guide pulley so it’s aligned with the outer line of the smallest cog (not the center) using the high limit. I think this is to help keep the chain from rubbing on the 2nd cog as you mention. They instruct to center the guide pulley with the center of the largest cog when setting the low limit.
My trusted bike mechanic just installed and tested it already my new 1x12 xt shifter and rd and using 34 m7120 slx crankset with non boost microspline hub , everything working fine , so it is possible to use m7120 to a non boost hub , as u explained b4 that m7120 crankset is not compatible with non boost hub and frame men😀
I did not say not compatible I probably said less than ideal chainline😇
@@LoveMTB thanks 🙏🏻💚💚💚💚👍💪👍
Salut, Am vrut sa trec la 1x10 de la 3x10. Problema este ca pe cel mai mare pinion cand schimb imi cade lantul de pe foaie. Am renuntat la un "spacer" de la butuc incercand sa imping foaia mai spre cadru, dar cred ca o sa trebuiasca sa pun si eu niste distantiere. Foia de pe fata e ce a ramas de la 3x10 si e de 30 de dinti. O sa incerc sa pun distantiere de 2 mm si eu sa vad daca se imbunatateste situatia. Ce as mai putea schimba/verifica ? Multumesc!
@@LoveMTB Merci de raspuns. Am zis sa incerc cu actuala foaie dar dintii sunt subtiri si probabil si asta influenteaza caderea lantului. O sa cumpar un NW dar o sa incerc si cu niste distantiere pana imi gasesc foaie. Salutari!
I have a Sram GX 1x11 zero issues back-pedal.
You definitely want to use the correct chain for the correct cassette and tune the derailleur, period.
It's linked to the chain line you have
or you have a bent dérailleur or hanger
Im pretty sure the oval chainring exacerbates this issue
I would be so pissed if I had this issue. I just bought a new bike with an 11-42t 1x11 system and it only skips a little when back pedaling in the 11 tooth cogs. All gears seem to shift normally when riding forward and on the 11 tooth skips when backpedaling. I read that this is normal because there is no tension on the chain when backpedaling. Do you have any experience with this happening in a 1x11 system?
@@LoveMTB thank you and you as well. Keep up the good work making these videos.
Check your high gear limit screw make sure it is perfectly adjusted. Also when in your low gear grab derailluer cage and push it towards front of bike see how much it will move if you get a fair amount of play shorten the chain by a link or two. But first check limit screw.
Is it possible to run a GRX 1x on a rim brake bike? (Surly Cross Check)
@@LoveMTB Awesome! yes apparently a pair of 105 levers has the same lever pull for gear shifting as the new GRX, then coupled with the GRX 812 rear derailleur and Deore XT cassette 11-40T should work great, was just unsure of the chainline with a 130mm rear 11 speed road hub though. 🤔
@@LoveMTB will do :)
@@reddevil211287 how did you go with this? I’m considering the exact same thing: GRX 1x crank on a 130mm OLD rim brake road bike...
Maybe your frame's bb shell length is narrow.
Maybe the wolf tooth goat link might help
Hi, I am trying to find this info but still can not.
I have a full 3x10 XT 2015 setup. I want to change to 2x10 (possibly 2x11 later on). So my question is, Will the new XT M8000 2x11 crank and 8025 Front Derr will fork fine with the rest of the 10 speed setup? Keeping the 10 sp chain as well. and yes my XT shifter has the option to switch to 2x.
I have read that the chain line of the M8000 and the FC-M785 is the same, so It will possibly work but the Front Derr will?
Thanks alot in advance
greedyness haha. actually my main concerning was about being able to run the New m8k crank on my 10 speed setup, since mine is kinda old already. ok about the fd, but using the crank will be ok? are the m8k chainring crank teeths ready for the 10 sp chain?
this might be a really good thing to try. I get it, only plates are thinner at 11 sp. yea so I will tweak my fd to make it work on 2 speed and get the m8k crank. I will let you know how it ends. Thanks a lot
+Geeezass hope to hear it too! :)
I moved my BB spacer from right to the left and now I can backpedal on the pizza plate.
I'm running Sram 1x11.
+LoveMTB , not sure what you mean by unfortunately. I'm saying your technique worked and now my chain line is better and I can shift all gears and backpedal on the pizza plate without the chain skipping. I need that pizza plate more than I like to admit, lol
Howdy,
I just installed the 11x46 (1x) Sunrace on my Yelli and the Chain-line needs some TLC. Swapping the BB spacer looks as though it would help significantly, but are there any downsides to swapping the spacer from the drive side to non-drive side?
were do you get the chainring spacers from?
how do you need to shape them? thanks
I have exactly the same problem after converting a 2008er 3x9 SLX to 1x12 M7100 SLX. It is really dangerous as the chain gets stuck between derailleur and cassette if I don’t stop fast enough.
Was thinking that maybe one issue is also the fact that I have a 135mm rear axle, a wider one might ease the problem a bit.
The M7100 is supposed to be compatible with 135mm axles though. So not sure what the issue is here, but it’s really a massive problem that I am not sure how to fix it.
It is "compatible" in Shimano's words but with a 52mm chainline for non Boost bikes. Not ideal to say the least. See if you can push the chainline to 49ish mm, it will help.
@@LoveMTB I removed one spacer, now I have one 2.5mm spacer at each side. To be able to fully screw the BB in, I had to rework the plastic inner tube a bit as otherwise there would have stayed a gap between the bracket and the shell 😩
It’s much better now, but still the chain drops when pedaling backwards on the largest chainring. 😢
@@uncle-k3m for some bikes you cannot solve that problem completely but in real life you might not really run into it especially if it’s not dropping aggressively jamming the derailleur into the cassette. Enjoy your new drivetrain!🤘
I have a similar issue with m7100. Built the bike 5 yrs ago, haven't ridden in yrs, and recently noticed not just chain drop when back peddle, but also hear the loud clicking of chain trying to stay on the chainring. Frame is a nishiki colorado 135mm OLD. If I remove the spacer from the external BB bearing shell, the crank arm will contact with the chain stay. If I add spacers to the chainring, the lower part of the chain will contact the rear tire. Stock came with 27.5x2.8. I downgraded to 27.5x2.6, added 1.80mm spacer behind the cassette, and changed to a wolftooth chainring kinda solved the issue. It will now sorta stay on the 3rd gear while back peddling.
I have a 2016 Giant Anthem 2X 10 that I’m getting ready to convert to 1x 11. I have done some investigation about chain lines and I decided to try a SRAM DUB crankset with a Shimano XT 11 speed drive train. The stock spacing on the SRAM bottom bracket and crankset is specs at 48mm versus 52 or more on Shimano. Additionally there is more availability for offset chainrings on SRAM cranks. Anyone else try this?
This problem only Shimano XT 8000 or is it a problem any cassette 11 speeds with a number of teeth 42?
I have zero issue with Sram 1x11 GX/X1 when on the 42 tooth on the cassette with a 32 chain ring in front.
I have the same issue with a X01 1x11 on a GT zaskar, jumps on the 42 when back pedalling. Installed a GX 1X11 on a Specialized Crave and works like a charm...
Cool , 😎
oh man. i commented on the other vid. looks like your up against a frame geometry issue. good time to start looking into boost 148 bikes.
maybe try a different cassette? not to clear on this. your going to have to dig in and hunker down.
11-46 XT cassette, XTR Chain and RD and 34 t chainring Spidering OPI on a Cannondale FSI 2017 (AI system) No problems whatsoever ... if that can help. (I don't backpedal much anyways)
Thats pretty strange. Im ready to just to a 11x42 11 speed. Any recommendations? Going to run a 32 up front.
Wouldn't be surprised if you compare Sram and Shimano 11 spd cassette to find the cogs relative to their freehub mounting point different, thereby having the cogs closer or further away from the spokes. Also all frames are going to have a fairly large impact on chainline, boost with a normal 48-49 chainline (providing clearance) would help.
No back pedal no big deal
I have the 1×11 and 3x10 mtb I prefer the old system it's more flexible with no need to experiment with front ring size on the 1x11 that makes up for any negatives I've had
Getting new parts for the supereceded 3x10 etc will be a problem already online where everything is cheaper am finding that only latest components available WTF
Is the chain jumping down on brand new bikes that come with 1x11 ?
+LoveMTB nature of the beast then.
+Flatzout Yes, I can confirm that. SRAM 1x11 on my new Canyon Strive and the chain drops from 36t and 42t when backpedaling. Sometimes it's an issue but luckily not too often. I hope when the chain breaks in it will not jump from 36 just from 42...
+Tamas Varga My dad's does it on his SRAM 1x11 and mine as well on the XT 1x11
I have the exact same process 111. Do you think sram 11 speed would be any better or would it have the same issues?
+MyThinkin I have the exact same issue with SRAM 1x11 on my new Canyon Strive. The chainline is on the 5th cog and the chain drops from 36 and 42 when backpedaling. I have more room to play with the chainline as I have 6-7mm between the chainring and the chainstay although I can only move the BB spacer from the drive side to the non-drive side as the chainring is direct mount but luckily the BB is threaded. I think the "severity" of this issue also depends on the chain. When it breaks in I guess it will still drop from the 42 but will stay on the 36.
***** My bike came with X1 cassette and KMC X11-93 chain. On 10 speed I was really satisfied with the KMC chains and I don't have problem with shifting or noise on the 1x11 apart from the backpedaling issue. I think the 1x11 is a big compromise mechanically it's stretching the limits so I am not surprised by this problem but luckily it rarely causes any issues when riding. I'm yet to adjust the chainline as I am waiting for the tool to arrive to remove the BB (of course it's different to the HTII BB removal tool...).
Btw I like your channel, I will check out your other videos! :)
+LoveMTB Have you installed the SRAM chain? How is it? I replaced the KMC with SRAM X1 and it feels more smooth and more quiet. Also, it doesn't drop immediately from 42T when backpedaling which is great because I don't need more than a half rotation occasionally and that was a pain with the KMC.
my guess: it´s a Problem from the older 11x drive. in every forum or video with this Problem, it was a M7000 SLX or M8000 XT setup.
At that time nothing was old, but it was a bigger issues for those drivetrains. People still have the same problem on some 12s drivetrains
@@LoveMTB yup my 12 speed GX Eagle did it and now XT SP+ does it too but not as bad as the GX....but I did something similar to you where I moved the chainline in as far as it can go playing with BB spacers
@@LoveMTByes, I do. Still wondering what is causing the issue with the chain line, as everything is mounted as it should.
Maybe it’s because my chain stay is for 26”? But how much angle can 1-2cm difference make?
@@uncle-k3m Everything makes a difference unfortunately. If everything is brand new I would ride it a bit, sometimes it settles down considerably once there is a bit of ride on the chain/ largest cog.
Don't play with the BB spacers, you want the cranks to be dead center. Also you need to have a fair clearance for the chainwheel, because: mud.
I was thinking about the same
I'm running into this exact issue. Just converted from a 2x9 to 1x11 (Shimano SLX). Regarding dead center...with my 73mm BB shell, the Shimano instructions tell me to put the 2.5mm spacer on the drive side, none on the non-drive side...so am I not off center already? Can I simply pull the 2.5mm spacer? Do I need to put it on the non-drive side? Or can buy some combination that adds up to 2.5mm?
@@brianmbremer you could be OK even without the spacer(measure or just try it), but you can also find 1.25mm spacers. Depends on how the chain line is for your particular frame-wheel-crank setup.
@@dyzoly I can't seem to find 1.25mm spacers for this Shimano BB (MT800). What is confusing is instruction to use a 2.5mm on the drive side only. Does that 2.5mm center the cranks (because they are constructed with that offset)? Or would two 1.25 spacers truly center the BB? If you can point me to 1.25 spacers, I'd be grateful.
@@brianmbremer I can't find any at home, but I'm pretty sure I had some...don't know where I got them from though. It's not the end of the world if it's not dead center. I usually check the distance between the cranks and the chainstays to be sure I'm not too far off.