Im finding it so interesting,just watching videos on the total restoration project,on your narrowboat,restoring the interior and exterior,so by giving the boat a new lease of nautical miles,to a old narrowboat,once again this lovely boat will be able to go on cruising the cut ,for many years to come.just awesome
Another subscriber. Brilliant. You two I mean. I will be starting our fit out soon, so great to find your channel. I also built my own house, and the biggest lesson I learned then was buy good tools, or lots of cheap ones!! In the end ALL my power tools were from Bosch, and they did not break down at all, then and not since.
Hi Trevor, thanks for commenting and I agree, we've done a bit of both, good tools for long lasting and cheeper ones for the odd job. Also agree with you over Bosch power tools. Keep in touch, best, Martin
Hi. Just discovered your channel. Love it. So we subscribed. 😃. Don’t think we’d like to be fitting out our boat ourselves..... Way too much stress. LOL. Looking forward to an update 👍
Hi Foxes Afloat, thanks for having a look at our channel and for your comment, we'll definatelt head over and catch up with yours though it sounds like your old hats at boating. Looking forward to seeing it finished and having a peek inside - we're not jealous, much :) best, Martin
Put the whole sheet up against the bulkhead and pin it into place go outside and use a 4/5inch round wood cutter and cut through from the centre, from there you can mark around and cut the port hole to size, your liner and porthole will fill in the gaps. Did it on my boat took me 10 minutes to do very easy and not complicated to do.
The Narrow Boat To The Deep North Hi, Martin, unfortunately I don’t think so. I have really enjoyed following your progress. We have been restoring a Seamaster 27 on the Norfolk Broads and we too stopped setting deadlines for getting back in the water. We would like to eventually move onto a narrow boat.
Hi David, boat time is definitely slower than everywhere else and not setting deadlines saves disapointment. We'd like to get the noise work (and painting the outside) done in the boat yard before moving to a marina closer to where we work and then finish the boat there. A Seamaster must have it's own challenges?
In my experience line the porthole with a template that you can use a copy router(bottom bearing) directly on you ash faced stuff(varnish all your ash faced stuff before handing) perfect alignment... incidentally timber port liners look great initially but stain badly in the long run..brass spun liners or grp a best for long lasting like new finish..hang in there..
Hi Chevy, thanks for watching and for the information, varnishing the ash ply before hand is a good idea and we did think about it but there was a lack of space to stain and varish 12 sheets. For the brass portholes, is that from the Black Country people? Best, Martin
Always enjoy your vlogs, always interesting and also inspiring - thought the porthole template was a sound idea as long as you’re happy it’s sitting square in the porthole frame - only thing I would have done would be to replace the long screw, once the backing block was secured, with a pilot drill using the original screw hole as the guide - but hey, if it works then don’t knock it
Good job. I think a few milimeters not being perfect at the portholes can be adjusted by the “framing” of the portholes. But I can ask someone who builts boat interiours for a living how he does it, if you like to know
The Narrow Boat To The Deep North ok, so I was told that he measures the location of the hole from the end of the last plywoodboard with an angle to locate the position in hight and distance to the edge of the board and then uses a zirkel (something you use to draw circles) for the diameter. A few milimeters can be easily covered by the trim of the porthole. The other possibility would be to cut the plywood boards to lenght that they meet in the middle of the porthole. All of them. So you just would need to cut the halves out which is easier as you could see what you are doing. But this would give you more joints for the plywood boards to meet.
Cool, thank you! We did try the first part of that but we didn't feel that confident and was how we came to use the circluar ply which worked, for us, very well. We did know about the half circles but didn't like the idea of all those joints and was something we'd already dismissed in the general design of the ceiling and sides so we could have the joints in specific places, where we wanted them. But, thanks for asking, best, Martin
Hi Andrew, thanks for watching, we've used cardboard templates for other things and they're good but not always perfect. With a large sheet of ply you have to get it right first time because it's an expensive mistake otherwise. Best, Martin
I will tell you what! You pay for my plane ticket, you see I am lead Tech at my job. And I will stay with you guys until the work is done. You wont even have to pay me. O.K. PLEASE!
![Chino Pacas - Smith (ft. Junior H & Fuerza Regida) [Video Visualizador Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BVK6k56X30Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Im finding it so interesting,just watching videos on the total restoration project,on your narrowboat,restoring the interior and exterior,so by giving the boat a new lease of nautical miles,to a old narrowboat,once again this lovely boat will be able to go on cruising the cut ,for many years to come.just awesome
Hi Anthinoy, we're glad that you're enjoying the videos and glad to have you with us on our journey, best, Martin
Another subscriber. Brilliant. You two I mean. I will be starting our fit out soon, so great to find your channel. I also built my own house, and the biggest lesson I learned then was buy good tools, or lots of cheap ones!! In the end ALL my power tools were from Bosch, and they did not break down at all, then and not since.
Hi Trevor, thanks for commenting and I agree, we've done a bit of both, good tools for long lasting and cheeper ones for the odd job. Also agree with you over Bosch power tools. Keep in touch, best, Martin
What a great idea for marking the portholes. Another excellent video and the boat is looking great. Thanks.
Thanks Sylvia! Glad you liked it. Best, Martin
Port hole idea is brilliant! Thanks veey much I've got 8 coming up! 😂
Hi Malcolm, glad you like, it did give us more confidence than just measuring. Thanks for watching. Best, Martin
Hi. Just discovered your channel. Love it. So we subscribed. 😃.
Don’t think we’d like to be fitting out our boat ourselves..... Way too much stress. LOL. Looking forward to an update 👍
Hi Foxes Afloat, thanks for having a look at our channel and for your comment, we'll definatelt head over and catch up with yours though it sounds like your old hats at boating. Looking forward to seeing it finished and having a peek inside - we're not jealous, much :) best, Martin
Put the whole sheet up against the bulkhead and pin it into place go outside and use a 4/5inch round wood cutter and cut through from the centre, from there you can mark around and cut the port hole to size, your liner and porthole will fill in the gaps. Did it on my boat took me 10 minutes to do very easy and not complicated to do.
Good job 👍
Hi Joy and Martin, thanks! and thanks for watching, glad you liked it! Best, Martin
Fantastic video. Many thanks
Hi David, thanks for your lovely comment and for watching! I know a David Smith, are yuo by any chance that one? Best, Martin
The Narrow Boat To The Deep North Hi, Martin, unfortunately I don’t think so. I have really enjoyed following your progress. We have been restoring a Seamaster 27 on the Norfolk Broads and we too stopped setting deadlines for getting back in the water. We would like to eventually move onto a narrow boat.
Hi David, boat time is definitely slower than everywhere else and not setting deadlines saves disapointment. We'd like to get the noise work (and painting the outside) done in the boat yard before moving to a marina closer to where we work and then finish the boat there. A Seamaster must have it's own challenges?
In my experience line the porthole with a template that you can use a copy router(bottom bearing) directly on you ash faced stuff(varnish all your ash faced stuff before handing) perfect alignment... incidentally timber port liners look great initially but stain badly in the long run..brass spun liners or grp a best for long lasting like new finish..hang in there..
Hi Chevy, thanks for watching and for the information, varnishing the ash ply before hand is a good idea and we did think about it but there was a lack of space to stain and varish 12 sheets. For the brass portholes, is that from the Black Country people? Best, Martin
Always enjoy your vlogs, always interesting and also inspiring - thought the porthole template was a sound idea as long as you’re happy it’s sitting square in the porthole frame - only thing I would have done would be to replace the long screw, once the backing block was secured, with a pilot drill using the original screw hole as the guide - but hey, if it works then don’t knock it
Hi Martin, yes I see where you're coming from and indeed a good idea (for next time... :) ). Thanks for watching, best, Martin
Good job. I think a few milimeters not being perfect at the portholes can be adjusted by the “framing” of the portholes. But I can ask someone who builts boat interiours for a living how he does it, if you like to know
Hi Esther, yes, we think so too but by all means ask! Thank you! Best, Martin
The Narrow Boat To The Deep North ok, so I was told that he measures the location of the hole from the end of the last plywoodboard with an angle to locate the position in hight and distance to the edge of the board and then uses a zirkel (something you use to draw circles) for the diameter. A few milimeters can be easily covered by the trim of the porthole. The other possibility would be to cut the plywood boards to lenght that they meet in the middle of the porthole. All of them. So you just would need to cut the halves out which is easier as you could see what you are doing. But this would give you more joints for the plywood boards to meet.
Cool, thank you! We did try the first part of that but we didn't feel that confident and was how we came to use the circluar ply which worked, for us, very well. We did know about the half circles but didn't like the idea of all those joints and was something we'd already dismissed in the general design of the ceiling and sides so we could have the joints in specific places, where we wanted them. But, thanks for asking, best, Martin
Best way to cut out the porthole apertures I would imagine is to make up cardboard templates
Hi Andrew, thanks for watching, we've used cardboard templates for other things and they're good but not always perfect. With a large sheet of ply you have to get it right first time because it's an expensive mistake otherwise. Best, Martin
I will tell you what! You pay for my plane ticket, you see I am lead Tech at my job. And I will stay with you guys until the work is done. You wont even have to pay me. O.K. PLEASE!
Why use an unreliable wobbly blade jigsaw when a router is far superior and easy with trammel bars or elliptical jig the proper way
Hi Stewart, we've never used a router but sounds like a good idea, thanks for commenting, best, Martin
Did you have a part 1??
Hi Stacieod, yes, it's here: ruclips.net/video/hAZ5byYNMZw/видео.html
nice jig template, fit out coming on good, giggling gets a little annoying tho
Hi Kev, thanks for watching and for commenting - sorry for the giggles, we'll try harder to keep it professional. Best, Martin