powdered chalk sends it off quicker . i use this in colder weather. also i use hanson hydraulic lime. works perfectly. when building flint walls i throw in broken bricks to. i have also used old lime mortar to send it off aswell and also have reused old lime mortar by itself. i have been doing flintwork for about 25 years
Really Excellent video but it’s a shame that some very reasonable questions have been left unanswered or further discussed to continue and expand this very important subject (with so many variables admittedly) Yes you have to ‘suck it and see’ but these techniques are or can be physically demanding and you don’t want to be doing again! But...any result will be far superior to cement use in these traditional buildings...Anyone out there Ludlow ??
I use a mattock handle on it holding the mattock by the metal end and pushing it handle first into the mix in a bucket, really seems to squash it in, alternating with trowel mixing. I have tried both washed sand and kiln-dried sand. Washed sand seems to work best, with 3 parts sand to 1 part putty, hardens well over a few days. Kiln dried sand needed about 1 part sand to 0.55 parts putty to get a workable mixture, and takes lots longer to dry. This might be something to do with the higher putty ratio. I think the washed sand has less fine clay and organic material, but moisture content is rather high. Also the putty can have variable moisture content. Still learning how to do this.
One of the more detailed and informative videos out there. Thank you for sharing. It would be good to understand why you use the additional fine sand in your mix, is this for workability purposes or perhaps some other reason/reasons? Thanks Tom
I have found a potato masher and a household manual cake mixer quite handy for extremely small batches. Running over a mix to and fro on my skateboard has had the same effect as those large and much more expensive pan mixers.
great video thanks i am about to repoint a victorian cottage exterior gable wall. i have never re pointed before. The mixes you show here are they suitable for re pointing and if so what type of lime putty did you use?
With all of this work with brick dust to get the mortar to 'go-off' quicker. Wouldn't it just be easier to use hydraulic lime as that tends to go off faster anyway?
there is a lot of discussion lately about the inappropriateness of NHL's - one key point being that they continue to harden, sometimes to the point of being not far off cement. Check out Nigel Copsey's book; Hot Mixed Lime and Traditional Mortars
That is different in every application and you should use the advice of a local mason. The stone type, location, use, time of year etc. are all factors that need to be considered when determining mixes. I use well over ten types in one area.
Personally I think your mix is lime weak: Taken from Dr. G Lynch 'Myth in the mix': Misconceptions concerning the traditional method of gauging quicklime to sand have contributed to some mortar failures based on a volume ratio of 1:3 with ready-to-use lime, particularly where inexperienced personnel working with lime putty have not realised that a measure of lime within a ratio might not be one full unit of lime. Lime putty contains a sizeable percentage of water; thus reducing the actual binder content within that ratio further.
@@michaeljamesdesign that industry specified mortars have to be NHL as it has BN classification where as putty doesn't and can't as far as i'm aware. In practical terms it will never be an issue with putty either. The compressive strength of putty based mortars can vary widely with some of the older ones being ridiculously strong as they get stronger the more they calcify. They have nevr caused the problems you get with Portland/stone either as far as i know.
You have covered all techniques of lime mortar mixing. Great Effort. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks so much for this info especially on the use of the cementmixer and a pan mixer! I was pondering of which to buy!
powdered chalk sends it off quicker . i use this in colder weather. also i use hanson hydraulic lime. works perfectly. when building flint walls i throw in broken bricks to. i have also used old lime mortar to send it off aswell and also have reused old lime mortar by itself. i have been doing flintwork for about 25 years
Really Excellent video but it’s a shame that some very reasonable questions have been left unanswered or further discussed to continue and expand this very important subject (with so many variables admittedly) Yes you have to ‘suck it and see’ but these techniques are or can be physically demanding and you don’t want to be doing again! But...any result will be far superior to cement use in these traditional buildings...Anyone out there Ludlow ??
I use a mattock handle on it holding the mattock by the metal end and pushing it handle first into the mix in a bucket, really seems to squash it in, alternating with trowel mixing. I have tried both washed sand and kiln-dried sand. Washed sand seems to work best, with 3 parts sand to 1 part putty, hardens well over a few days. Kiln dried sand needed about 1 part sand to 0.55 parts putty to get a workable mixture, and takes lots longer to dry. This might be something to do with the higher putty ratio. I think the washed sand has less fine clay and organic material, but moisture content is rather high. Also the putty can have variable moisture content. Still learning how to do this.
Thank you.
One of the more detailed and informative videos out there. Thank you for sharing. It would be good to understand why you use the additional fine sand in your mix, is this for workability purposes or perhaps some other reason/reasons? Thanks
Tom
Its for plasticity and binding. Sharp sand is big and angular, you need something small and preferably round as well.
COULD YOU SHARE THE MIX RATIO OF THE MATERIALS USED. THANKS
You be better adding double amount of lime at that ratio of sand, with lime putty
Not many people know this do they? That its 1:3 when dry but the putty isn't dry so you need twice as much.
I have found a potato masher and a household manual cake mixer quite handy for extremely small batches. Running over a mix to and fro on my skateboard has had the same effect as those large and much more expensive pan mixers.
Crushed terracotta tiles are better than brick as old 19th century brick clay was grogged with all kinds of crap....slag mostly.
great video thanks i am about to repoint a victorian cottage exterior gable wall. i have never re pointed before. The mixes you show here are they suitable for re pointing and if so what type of lime putty did you use?
Sorry, ¿the second red sand bowl is clay?. ¿ It's possible to make plaster with lime, clay and sand?. Sorry for my english, I am catalan.
With all of this work with brick dust to get the mortar to 'go-off' quicker. Wouldn't it just be easier to use hydraulic lime as that tends to go off faster anyway?
there is a lot of discussion lately about the inappropriateness of NHL's - one key point being that they continue to harden, sometimes to the point of being not far off cement. Check out Nigel Copsey's book; Hot Mixed Lime and Traditional Mortars
Good video, So it's a 2 sharp, 1 soft & 1 powdered lime then aswell? 🤔
What ratio of ingredients do you use?
That is different in every application and you should use the advice of a local mason. The stone type, location, use, time of year etc. are all factors that need to be considered when determining mixes. I use well over ten types in one area.
Can u just use lime putty on gauged brick arch or add sand
Such a question. How long time can lime mortar last? Thanks
Did you make this lime putty yourself?
Hi, sir! I'm Saksham upadhayay from India! I want to know about the natural mortar in detail! How could I contact you sir?
Personally I think your mix is lime weak: Taken from Dr. G Lynch 'Myth in the mix':
Misconceptions concerning the traditional method of gauging quicklime to sand have contributed to some mortar failures based on a volume ratio of 1:3 with ready-to-use lime, particularly where inexperienced personnel working with lime putty have not realised that a measure of lime within a ratio might not be one full unit of lime. Lime putty contains a sizeable percentage of water; thus reducing the actual binder content within that ratio further.
Thank you for sharing this one! It helps!
Would porcelain tile dust work as a pozzolan?
Yes but you wouldn't know the eventual compressive strength of the mortar.
@@michaeljamesdesign He's using putty so you wouldn't know that anyway would you? Its not from NHL.
@@corindoyle And your point?
@@michaeljamesdesign that industry specified mortars have to be NHL as it has BN classification where as putty doesn't and can't as far as i'm aware. In practical terms it will never be an issue with putty either. The compressive strength of putty based mortars can vary widely with some of the older ones being ridiculously strong as they get stronger the more they calcify. They have nevr caused the problems you get with Portland/stone either as far as i know.