Smooth Fender Aprons - Foxbody Mustang Restomod Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In this video I tackle replacing the stock factory fender aprons that are full of holes with LMR's smooth fender aprons (with mixed results). This was a huge learning experience for me as I've never really removed and replace sheetmetal panels before.
All of the welding I've done up until this point has been on much thicker metal. My 20 year old welder actually ended up failing to feed and I had to replace it. By the end of this project I think I was starting to get better.
Link to the part I installed, not sponsored or affiliated,
1979-1993 Mustang Front Fender Apron Pair w/ No Holes by 5.0 Resto
lmr.com/item/L...
Allstar ALL18222 1/8" Diameter Cleco Pin, (Pack of 10) a.co/d/h0XYw7j
13Pcs Spot Weld Cutter Set, 3/8" Double Sided Rotary Spot Weld Cutter, Sheet Metal Hole Cutter Saw, Spot Weld Remover Drill Bits Cutting Tools, Power Drill Welding Auto Work Tool w/Replacement Blade a.co/d/0BVlrQq
Restoration on my 1989 Ford Mustang GT continues...
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Outtro:
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You never know what You can do unless You make an attempt to do anything ! Great
job , next time You'll do it faster and better because You
took the time to do it Yourself.
Thank You👍🇺🇲🇵🇷
Totally agree! Thanks!
Swiss chese shock towers. I filled them also . It's what you want that's what matters.
Thank you! Yeah they're pretty gnarly. I did end up buying those patch panels for the shock towers but I didn't use them and just welded the holes directly in a later video.
Great job, getting ready to try this myself. bought the panels from LMR and am not looking forward to this part of the project. Again, I think you did a great job, especially being your first time.
Thanks! Yeah I've never really done any kind of sheet metal patching before this but I watched a lot on yt. Learned quite a bit and the second side really came out so much better than the first. Appreciate the feedback!
I stumbled across this video. I wish I would've thought about these inner fenders. Instead, I did the Scott Rod Fab inner fenders. I wish I would've done these, after the fact...especially since my car is going to be more of a race car than a show car. And I like the more OE look of these inner fenders!
It's funny, immediately after I put these in I kind of thought twice and considered if I should've done the scott rods. But iirc you can put them over the existing ones so I figured I didn't necessarily make a wrong move here if I wanted them instead. They grew on me though and I too prefer the OE look now. Thanks for the comment!
I'm going to box in lower frame rail as we'll on mine .did this a year ago beforehand.
That's a great idea. The scotrod panels cover it and I felt like I made a mistake choosing these. But you're right, you can always just patch over it.
Great job! Definitely can be a learning experience. I was going to smooth my engine bay until I got behind after having to repair the unforeseen strut tower rust. I’m still happy with my results though. i’ve never done anything like that, probably wouldn’t do it again either. But if I did it wouldn’t take so long this time. Great video!
Thank you! Yep, this was an awesome learning experience. I hear you, I went with a "partial smoothing" because of the amount of work/time it is. If I were to do it again, I'd definitely make some changes to my approach. No one likes doing things twice but we can always go back and change things later even if it becomes a much greater PITA. Second time always seems faster/better.
Nice how to video! Why did you replace the inner panels? Were they rusted?
Thanks! Purely cosmetic reasons. I want to eventually try to smooth it all out with some plastic filler and and then paint it. I'm sure I won't be able to get it show quality but just to clean it up a bit.
What size spot weld bits and Cleco pins?
I ordered the ones that say 3/8" 5/16" from Amazon and 1/8" clecos. I'll add links in the description.
Hey, did you have to push super hard to sink the bits? Im have a hard time drilling the hole
There's a trick to it, I found that spinning the drill on high and lightly touching it to the steel until it feels like it bit in and then pushing seemed to work. I talked about it a bit more in the video removing the sway bar mounts but also made a short out of it ruclips.net/user/shortsEfrE6LEW16A?si=79DWs0Fa1LhdAZhY
Why do you say you didn’t do it right?
This was a while ago but I think that was in reference to a few things. The first panel didn't go in as well as the second one because I didn't clamp it in as tightly. I think I didn't have the cleco pins yet. I also should've removed the pinch welds in the front corners from underneath instead of drilling through the metal I wanted to keep. And just as a matter of speed, I could've cut the bulk of the panels out instead of trying to surgically remove them. All in all a great learning experience though, I never replaced a sheet metal panel before this. Thanks for watching!
What drill bits did you use? Im doing yhis exact same thing
I used these 3/8" cutters a.co/d/0BVlrQq I think I found that they worked best at high speed on the drill. If you can make a semi deep pilot dent to start it even better. They walk pretty easily. What year/trim?
@@SleazysGarage thank you, I crashed my foxbody 87 lx 302 5 speed and fucked all that up but bumper fine
Everything fine except those fenders and hood
I'm going to have to add a headlight panel too
Ah, that sucks but at least you can fix it! Are you going to paint it yourself?