The question was actually about a finishing mower and not a rotary cutter, the brand is bush hog. The finishing mower has wheels to support itself. According to Bush Hog's website, the 72" finishing mower weighs 730lb and a HP range of 20 - 40hp. So, a BX should be able to lift it and is just below the recommended PTO HP.
Dude, you bought a really expensive lawn tractor. Do not put a 72 inch finish mower on that lawn tractor. It will bog way down and just be terrible for the tractor.
It would probably work fine for mowing a lawn with how short lawns typically are. The nice thing about finishing mowers is they are detachable and come off and you can continue using your tractor for all its other intended purposes. Growing up, we mowed with an AC WD and JD 950 with 6’ finish mowers all the time and it works great. The tricycle WD was phenomenal for maneuverability. Bottom line, you have a tractor already, might as well use it.
Great points Neil...always good to see someone reconsider their position. Granted, your initial position was "right", but nice to see you consider the nuances of various options.
I laughed so hard I almost hurt myself when you changed scenes to you sitting on that tiny little tractor with that masive Bushhog on the back. I love it!
As a kid, we had a 20 something HP Kubota and a 6' King Kutter finish mower. The Kubota could drive it but if you hit a mole hill or went too fast the RPM's would dip. I took it as a challenge and have some very fond memories to pushing the envelope. My father eventually wised up and downsized to a 5' mower (against my advice). It took much longer to mow with a 5', even if I could go a gear higher. Great memories. It can be done but you needed finesse!
My 1880 runs my 48” rotary cutter nicely. And talking about “ oversized” attachments, i ordered a 60” finish mower to run behind it. Its 60lb lighter than my rotary. And thinking about it, if the weaker pto ( mid) can run a 54” mid mower no problem, the stronger pto ( rear) should have no problem as well running a mower only 6” bigger. Thats about the only “ over sizing” ill do. Another awesome, funny, and informative video.
i have a 4' tater rotto tiller i run on my BX2350. it's the category 1 unit they sell at tractor supply "countryline" brand. it is over 400 lbs. my tractor does just fine with it IF i have the loader mounted on the tractor as a counter balance. without the loader if you go up hill it will get really light on the steering and even pick the front of the tractor up off the ground. the bx will do quite a bit but you have to be aware that this is NOT a particularly heavy tractor, and it has it's limitations. the 4' tiller is pushing it's limits a little but it's not as crazy as the large 72" rotary cutter.
I have a B2601 that I use my Woods HC60 5’ rotary cutter with. The cutter normally was used on my L6060 but I’ve kept the backhoe on my larger tractor more this year. To make the B2601 usable I had to add the extra weight bracket and add 5 suitcase weights to the front (I don’t have a loader). If the rotary cutter isn’t perfectly setup the wheels still come up on a hill. I have very limited steering with this setup, it’s not safe because when the cutter catches something it wags the tractor around in the direction the cutter wants the tractor to go. I have R14 tires not filled because I mow with the deck mower most of the time with it. Where I use it I am just very careful but a 4’ mower is really what I need but that’s too small for my L6060 so I make due. My rotary cutter weights 550#. The manual states the tractor can handle a 5’ at 550# I believe, but again without the weights it is impossible, and with the weights still not safe. The implement will easily drag the tractor around and if you are on a hillside this becomes a very large concern for rollover. I will say it can cut smaller brush fine and can cut grass by raising the cutter an inch or 2 higher than normal. The tractor is amazing, and maybe when I have covered space I will think about investing in a 4’ rotary cutter just for it.
I have a bx2350 (i have a 60" belly mower for my lawn) for cutting our ATV trail I have a72" finish mower that I use. It weighs the same as my 48" brush hog, it gives a better cut and I save time by only having to make one pass. Sometimes it would be nice to have a bit more HP, but I keep it in low and it does fine.
I have one of the bobcat 25hp tractors with a 72 rotary and it works great, use it to cut a 30 acre property every three weeks with alot of hills and haven't had any issues being able to lift it or power it.. usually in high range speeding around haha It does bog the machine down a little in grass over three feet but just slightly lifting the cutter makes all the difference
Machine size probably is a fair bit more important than the actual pto horsepower. There are some pretty dang big 25 hp tractors out there that can handle a lot of work.
@@phild9813 your totally correct about that it's quite a large frame,it's the ct2025 I think it's weighs in around 2800 pounds without the loader and the rear tires are taller than my waist. People are always surprised when I tell them it's 25hp most people guess 40hp
@@TheGunner11 I would love more power out of it, the salesman told me the only difference was a dpf filter and he steered me away from the 35hp because of that
I had a MF GC1725 (25hp sub compact)and while it could lift and operate at 6' finish mower and 5' brush hog, the problem is, it really couldn't lift it far enough off the ground lol. They are capable tractors if you work within your limits.
I've run a Avco New Idea kicker baler, kicking into a 9'x18' hay wagon with my little John Deere 870. I had to scoop up a load of dirt in the bucket to turn once the wagon had about half a load. I didn't have the ability to tilt the kicker either. I did it on flat ground, I wouldn't recommend NOT trying it on hills of any type.
I had a 17 hp grey Kubota with a single gearbox 7’ cutter. Worked 100x better once we changed the gearbox to a different gear ratio. Before that it would bog the engine down pretty bad in reg grass about knee high. No problems with swapped gearbox from old rusted out cutter
I have a Frontier GM1072R that I used behind my 1025r regularly. It handled just fine and all I had on the front was pallet forks as well as my rear tires were not filled. Picked it up just fine. I now have a 2025r (more weight and length) with filled tires and I mow just fine with it as well. I do admit I enjoy the 2025r with the higher speeds but I enjoyed the 1025r and GM1072r just the same. Oh I bought it to mow a field 3-4 times during the summer so grass was always 5-10” high in spots.
I think something else to think about is the additional stresses on other parts of the tractor that were not meant to move/carry such large implements. even if adding weights to the frontend allowed for better steering your adding alot more stress to the pins where the 3pt lower arms connect to the tractor and may even break them off.
Was waiting for the tractor to just snap in half LOL! It's a great example with loader tractors. Even with lots of ballast in the rear for balancing out the tractor for hauling heavy loads up front, where's the brunt of the stress at?
If the ground isn't too hilly, just disconnect the top link and let it ride on the rear wheel. All you really need in most applications is to lift the front.
I have a 42hp @ the PTO Diesel Ford tractor and a 72inch brush mower. The tractor can handle lifting and manuavering the mower safely without front weights, but I still run front weights. I find that in grass I am cutting less than 72inches because 42hp at the PTO is a little lacking. When the engine bogs down enough the blades often will not cut very well because they are swinging around a lot slower. Mowers depend on the blade speed for quality of cut, anything over 48inches and only 26PTO-HP is just stretching too far. I can't forsee anyone enjoying doing 1-2mphinstead of 5--6mph just to cut an extra 12-24inches of material. I also Can't see it being remotely efficient fuel wise. Don't forget that excessive load leads to increased wear and tear on your tractor for increased maintenance costs.k
I had the same question about flail mowers. The HP recommendations seem to be a bit high coming from the manufacturers. It seems like people get by with less PTO HP than what the manufactures say you should have.
It sure seems like this is the case. And you can definitely push up with mowing widths since weight is as close to the tractor as possible. The issue would arise in mowing really dense tall grass or large diameter material.
To me it's speed v's width. A narrow mower going fast, or a wide mower going slow. About the same amount of grass getting cut, but a wide mower going slow is a lot more comfortable on your body. Sure, if you go fast you'll bog it down. So don't go fast.
I run a 48 inch brush hog on my old BX2200. It's plenty of weight and I'm careful with it. I don't think it would go as well without the loader on the tractor.
Would like to see you do a video on bent loader arms or bracket got a lx2610 not sure how I did it or how to fix it can’t find any stress or obvious tweaks anywhere anybody do you or anybody out there know how to fix it
Another good video. I have a 66hp engine cab tractor (4x4) and 51.9 hp PTO. Tires are 84 inches wide. Which size of rotary cutter is suitable for this tractor...?
Your boy Tim puts bat wings behind 1025's seems ridiculous. The other detail often overlooked is pto shaft length. You can damage these smaller tractors in a big way if not fitted properly. Big difference cat2 or 3 to cat 1
Maybe a handful of times, I wouldn't try it, then again I have to pay for the repairs if I break something on my equipment, so I keep within the specs of the machine, and for the BX a 4 foot rotary cutter is the max recommended for the 23/26 horsepower machines...the 18HP machine if I recall the 42" rotary cutter is the max...although I bet one could run the 4 foot cutter on it if they were doing light duty work, which to be honest you ain't gonna go out and run over 3+ inch diameter trees/brush with a BX LOL.
I've got an L2501 and when I added the backhoe, some very sturdy frame supports were required even on the full sized frame. That's what made me think of it.
Kind of looks like the person asking the questing is asking about 2 different types of mowers even though it is worded poorly. Looks like a brush hog or a finish mower.
Or leave the 3pt in float with the rotary cutter attached, which still might deteriorate the ability to steer. Running that setup on a hill and or when it’s wet would be worse. Sometimes the machine is just telling you no.
I always thought that's the reason tractors have independent brakes. If your front end is pushing or off the ground you use the brakes to steer. Been doing it all my life.
I have the opposite question. I want to run something like a Del Morino Funny Top 158 62" Flail Mower on my L4701HST. The PTO output is about 39 HP, while the mower is rated for 12-30 HP. Give that mowers have shear pins or slip clutches, what are the real risks on running this on a PTO that makes about 25% more power than it's rated for?
Some additional pto-power shouldn't matter. The shear pins and clutches are there to protect against damage when hitting a rock. When the blade spin at X rpm it doesn't know how much power there is. But there is still no need to be silly. Even though the tractor can manage to keep up mowing at 15 mph, less can give better results and guard the machines...
@@JCWren I think that there is a bit of a safty-feature. A smaller implement is made of thinner steal and is not made for "real heavy work". If you put that implement on a bigger tractor you might go places and do things that are to hard for the implement. A rotary cutter can sometimes be moved from back to front if there is a hitch and a pto. But often in those situations the tractor is bigger (maybe 50hp and up?). Without knowing there can be much bigger stress on the implement that can wear it out more quickly. Hope that I made some sence and not just a mess 😋.
i have watched a lot of your video's, but the question in the text/email clearly stated/asked if this person could use a 72'' finish mower ?, you on the other hand hooked up a 72'' bush/brush/rotary mower up !..lol. stick with the facts, don't confuse the people here that are seeking answers.
ubiquitous yoo͞-bĭk′wĭ-təs adjective Being or seeming to be everywhere at the same time; omnipresent. Existing or being everywhere, or in all places, at the same time; omnipresent. Being everywhere at once: omnipresent.
Thought I was watching Tractor Time With Tim for a minute.
I like your setup - snowblower on the front and a mower behind. Now you can mow your grass without that pesky snow in the way.
Ohh the mighty BX and what it can do 💪🏻 Like I always tell my subscribers.. sometimes you just gotta use what you got when you don’t have a choice 😂
The question was actually about a finishing mower and not a rotary cutter, the brand is bush hog. The finishing mower has wheels to support itself. According to Bush Hog's website, the 72" finishing mower weighs 730lb and a HP range of 20 - 40hp. So, a BX should be able to lift it and is just below the recommended PTO HP.
Dude, you bought a really expensive lawn tractor. Do not put a 72 inch finish mower on that lawn tractor. It will bog way down and just be terrible for the tractor.
@@retired-pipefitter Dude, I'm not the one who asked the original question, I'm only clarifying what the questioner asked.
@@mrpips000 👍
It would probably work fine for mowing a lawn with how short lawns typically are. The nice thing about finishing mowers is they are detachable and come off and you can continue using your tractor for all its other intended purposes. Growing up, we mowed with an AC WD and JD 950 with 6’ finish mowers all the time and it works great. The tricycle WD was phenomenal for maneuverability. Bottom line, you have a tractor already, might as well use it.
My old Iseki SF333 which maybe has 25 HP at it’s PTO was factory fitted with a 72 inch finish mower.
Great points Neil...always good to see someone reconsider their position. Granted, your initial position was "right", but nice to see you consider the nuances of various options.
I laughed so hard I almost hurt myself when you changed scenes to you sitting on that tiny little tractor with that masive Bushhog on the back. I love it!
As a kid, we had a 20 something HP Kubota and a 6' King Kutter finish mower. The Kubota could drive it but if you hit a mole hill or went too fast the RPM's would dip. I took it as a challenge and have some very fond memories to pushing the envelope. My father eventually wised up and downsized to a 5' mower (against my advice). It took much longer to mow with a 5', even if I could go a gear higher. Great memories. It can be done but you needed finesse!
So glad to see stock start to build back up.
My 1880 runs my 48” rotary cutter nicely. And talking about “ oversized” attachments, i ordered a 60” finish mower to run behind it. Its 60lb lighter than my rotary. And thinking about it, if the weaker pto ( mid) can run a 54” mid mower no problem, the stronger pto ( rear) should have no problem as well running a mower only 6” bigger. Thats about the only “ over sizing” ill do. Another awesome, funny, and informative video.
i have a 4' tater rotto tiller i run on my BX2350. it's the category 1 unit they sell at tractor supply "countryline" brand. it is over 400 lbs. my tractor does just fine with it IF i have the loader mounted on the tractor as a counter balance. without the loader if you go up hill it will get really light on the steering and even pick the front of the tractor up off the ground. the bx will do quite a bit but you have to be aware that this is NOT a particularly heavy tractor, and it has it's limitations.
the 4' tiller is pushing it's limits a little but it's not as crazy as the large 72" rotary cutter.
I run a l2800 with 4 wheel drive and loader use a 6ft woods finish mower. It’s a great combo
I have a B2601 that I use my Woods HC60 5’ rotary cutter with. The cutter normally was used on my L6060 but I’ve kept the backhoe on my larger tractor more this year. To make the B2601 usable I had to add the extra weight bracket and add 5 suitcase weights to the front (I don’t have a loader). If the rotary cutter isn’t perfectly setup the wheels still come up on a hill. I have very limited steering with this setup, it’s not safe because when the cutter catches something it wags the tractor around in the direction the cutter wants the tractor to go. I have R14 tires not filled because I mow with the deck mower most of the time with it. Where I use it I am just very careful but a 4’ mower is really what I need but that’s too small for my L6060 so I make due. My rotary cutter weights 550#. The manual states the tractor can handle a 5’ at 550# I believe, but again without the weights it is impossible, and with the weights still not safe. The implement will easily drag the tractor around and if you are on a hillside this becomes a very large concern for rollover. I will say it can cut smaller brush fine and can cut grass by raising the cutter an inch or 2 higher than normal. The tractor is amazing, and maybe when I have covered space I will think about investing in a 4’ rotary cutter just for it.
I have a bx2350 (i have a 60" belly mower for my lawn) for cutting our ATV trail I have a72" finish mower that I use. It weighs the same as my 48" brush hog, it gives a better cut and I save time by only having to make one pass. Sometimes it would be nice to have a bit more HP, but I keep it in low and it does fine.
Nice One Neil used to use a 48'' finish mower on the BX 2350 with out front weights that wood lift the wheels off ground Thanks again
We run a 12’ Woods finish mower on our 3901. She does fine with it.
I have one of the bobcat 25hp tractors with a 72 rotary and it works great, use it to cut a 30 acre property every three weeks with alot of hills and haven't had any issues being able to lift it or power it.. usually in high range speeding around haha
It does bog the machine down a little in grass over three feet but just slightly lifting the cutter makes all the difference
Machine size probably is a fair bit more important than the actual pto horsepower. There are some pretty dang big 25 hp tractors out there that can handle a lot of work.
Yep. Kubota L2501, New Holland WM25, etc. Large frames. Horsepower means very little.
@@phild9813 your totally correct about that it's quite a large frame,it's the ct2025 I think it's weighs in around 2800 pounds without the loader and the rear tires are taller than my waist. People are always surprised when I tell them it's 25hp most people guess 40hp
It was also formerly the 35hp motor that was detained for emissions. Very easy to tune back up.
@@TheGunner11 I would love more power out of it, the salesman told me the only difference was a dpf filter and he steered me away from the 35hp because of that
I had a MF GC1725 (25hp sub compact)and while it could lift and operate at 6' finish mower and 5' brush hog, the problem is, it really couldn't lift it far enough off the ground lol. They are capable tractors if you work within your limits.
I've run a Avco New Idea kicker baler, kicking into a 9'x18' hay wagon with my little John Deere 870. I had to scoop up a load of dirt in the bucket to turn once the wagon had about half a load. I didn't have the ability to tilt the kicker either. I did it on flat ground, I wouldn't recommend NOT trying it on hills of any type.
I had a 17 hp grey Kubota with a single gearbox 7’ cutter. Worked 100x better once we changed the gearbox to a different gear ratio. Before that it would bog the engine down pretty bad in reg grass about knee high. No problems with swapped gearbox from old rusted out cutter
I have a Frontier GM1072R that I used behind my 1025r regularly. It handled just fine and all I had on the front was pallet forks as well as my rear tires were not filled. Picked it up just fine.
I now have a 2025r (more weight and length) with filled tires and I mow just fine with it as well. I do admit I enjoy the 2025r with the higher speeds but I enjoyed the 1025r and GM1072r just the same.
Oh I bought it to mow a field 3-4 times during the summer so grass was always 5-10” high in spots.
I think something else to think about is the additional stresses on other parts of the tractor that were not meant to move/carry such large implements. even if adding weights to the frontend allowed for better steering your adding alot more stress to the pins where the 3pt lower arms connect to the tractor and may even break them off.
I have an 84” Woods BB84.40 on a 1997 L3600 GST. Easily can run through just as much as my old 72” Howse unit. Run the Same gear, no problem.
Was waiting for the tractor to just snap in half LOL!
It's a great example with loader tractors. Even with lots of ballast in the rear for balancing out the tractor for hauling heavy loads up front, where's the brunt of the stress at?
There's one thing I do differently I've never connected the top part of the three-point link with only the bottom two connected it works perfectly
If the ground isn't too hilly, just disconnect the top link and let it ride on the rear wheel. All you really need in most applications is to lift the front.
Let's go with BAT WING mower on a bx25d, that would be cool 😀
There is a brand makes a 12' Batwing
@@BeingMe23 I still think that would be about 6 feet too big for a BX LOL.
I like your demonstration.
I have a 42hp @ the PTO Diesel Ford tractor and a 72inch brush mower. The tractor can handle lifting and manuavering the mower safely without front weights, but I still run front weights. I find that in grass I am cutting less than 72inches because 42hp at the PTO is a little lacking. When the engine bogs down enough the blades often will not cut very well because they are swinging around a lot slower. Mowers depend on the blade speed for quality of cut, anything over 48inches and only 26PTO-HP is just stretching too far. I can't forsee anyone enjoying doing 1-2mphinstead of 5--6mph just to cut an extra 12-24inches of material. I also Can't see it being remotely efficient fuel wise. Don't forget that excessive load leads to increased wear and tear on your tractor for increased maintenance costs.k
I had the same question about flail mowers. The HP recommendations seem to be a bit high coming from the manufacturers. It seems like people get by with less PTO HP than what the manufactures say you should have.
It sure seems like this is the case. And you can definitely push up with mowing widths since weight is as close to the tractor as possible. The issue would arise in mowing really dense tall grass or large diameter material.
To me it's speed v's width. A narrow mower going fast, or a wide mower going slow. About the same amount of grass getting cut, but a wide mower going slow is a lot more comfortable on your body. Sure, if you go fast you'll bog it down. So don't go fast.
and... that was my post. haha
Another great video, Neill!👍
I run a 48 inch brush hog on my old BX2200. It's plenty of weight and I'm careful with it. I don't think it would go as well without the loader on the tractor.
I thought the comment asked about a 72" finish mower and not a full on 72" brush cutter??
Would like to see you do a video on bent loader arms or bracket got a lx2610 not sure how I did it or how to fix it can’t find any stress or obvious tweaks anywhere anybody do you or anybody out there know how to fix it
My dealer had no idea what the pto HP range on a mower was. They kept coming back with the gearbox HP
Another good video. I have a 66hp engine cab tractor (4x4) and 51.9 hp PTO. Tires are 84 inches wide. Which size of rotary cutter is suitable for this tractor...?
Your boy Tim puts bat wings behind 1025's seems ridiculous. The other detail often overlooked is pto shaft length. You can damage these smaller tractors in a big way if not fitted properly. Big difference cat2 or 3 to cat 1
My question would be whether the frame of the little tractor can handle it.
Maybe a handful of times, I wouldn't try it, then again I have to pay for the repairs if I break something on my equipment, so I keep within the specs of the machine, and for the BX a 4 foot rotary cutter is the max recommended for the 23/26 horsepower machines...the 18HP machine if I recall the 42" rotary cutter is the max...although I bet one could run the 4 foot cutter on it if they were doing light duty work, which to be honest you ain't gonna go out and run over 3+ inch diameter trees/brush with a BX LOL.
I've got an L2501 and when I added the backhoe, some very sturdy frame supports were required even on the full sized frame. That's what made me think of it.
Kind of looks like the person asking the questing is asking about 2 different types of mowers even though it is worded poorly. Looks like a brush hog or a finish mower.
I'm interested in that 8' dual spindle offset mower
Surely on a 72" (single blade) brush hog, the center of gravity of the implement is > 36" behind the lift arms? So it's even worse than your 24" stat
Lol, this is a case of the tail wagging the dog.
Or leave the 3pt in float with the rotary cutter attached, which still might deteriorate the ability to steer. Running that setup on a hill and or when it’s wet would be worse. Sometimes the machine is just telling you no.
With the BX there isn't a float position on the 3 point, its either up or down or marginally in between.
Good info!
I’ve never heard anyone use the word “anymore” quite like he does. Lol
So with my smaller tractor I actually pull a 6-in cutter with it everyday
Where Tim from Tractor Time with Tim. He’ll show you how to do it
So use a draw bar bat wing.
This thumbnail looks like your invading Poland
We are BXSTEIN with attachments 😀
Can I pull a 10' rhino ag batwing behind my 1025R?
I always thought that's the reason tractors have independent brakes. If your front end is pushing or off the ground you use the brakes to steer. Been doing it all my life.
Is this the woods 72.30? I was looking at the 48.30 for my bx2380. Would the 48.30 be okay?
48 is pushing it, I lean towards a 42 personally.
Ok Neil I have an B7500 what size rough cut mower would you recommend?
48"
So would a BX25D handle a 48 inch rotary rear cutter?
Sure would.. won't have any problems at all.
I have the opposite question. I want to run something like a Del Morino Funny Top 158 62" Flail Mower on my L4701HST. The PTO output is about 39 HP, while the mower is rated for 12-30 HP. Give that mowers have shear pins or slip clutches, what are the real risks on running this on a PTO that makes about 25% more power than it's rated for?
Some additional pto-power shouldn't matter. The shear pins and clutches are there to protect against damage when hitting a rock. When the blade spin at X rpm it doesn't know how much power there is. But there is still no need to be silly. Even though the tractor can manage to keep up mowing at 15 mph, less can give better results and guard the machines...
@@johanneslaxell6641 Right. Which makes me wonder the attachments really have an upper horsepower rating.
@@JCWren
I think that there is a bit of a safty-feature. A smaller implement is made of thinner steal and is not made for "real heavy work". If you put that implement on a bigger tractor you might go places and do things that are to hard for the implement.
A rotary cutter can sometimes be moved from back to front if there is a hitch and a pto. But often in those situations the tractor is bigger (maybe 50hp and up?). Without knowing there can be much bigger stress on the implement that can wear it out more quickly.
Hope that I made some sence and not just a mess 😋.
i have watched a lot of your video's, but the question in the text/email clearly stated/asked if this person could use a 72'' finish mower ?, you on the other hand hooked up a 72'' bush/brush/rotary mower up !..lol. stick with the facts, don't confuse the people here that are seeking answers.
No, but lets see....
ubiquitous
yoo͞-bĭk′wĭ-təs
adjective
Being or seeming to be everywhere at the same time; omnipresent.
Existing or being everywhere, or in all places, at the same time; omnipresent.
Being everywhere at once: omnipresent.