How to Assemble an ICF Wall for Beginners
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- Опубликовано: 25 мар 2021
- How to Assemble an ICF Wall for Beginners;
In this video we run through all the practical advice and tips we would give to an ICF beginner. In fact, we plan to use this video as an introduction to all our future new-hires!
Over the course of setting 3 rows of ICF blocks we'll cover placement, corners, fasteners, form-lock, spray-foaming and more!
Thanks for watching - stay tuned for the next batch of tutorials and tips, focusing on ICF building practices, tips, tricks and all the rest.
And If there's anything you'd like me to explain further, or cover in another video - please leave me a comment below and I'll get back to you.
**************************************
I'm Kody Horvey, owner of Up To Kode; a full service carpentry, contracting and consulting company that proudly serves Red Deer and all of Central Alberta.
We are committed to being Central Alberta’s most sustainable and energy efficient builder with a strong focus on quality and innovation.
Our vision is to continually implement and increase the use of high efficient building practices and products to create sustainable, multi generation structures.
Here on RUclips, we hope to share our work, get you inspired, and give you the knowledge to plan and execute your own projects.
Questions? Just ask! Email kody@uptokode.com
➤What to Watch Next:
IKEA Kitchen Cabinet Course: (www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjdCY...)
ICF 101: (www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_bxd...)
Drywall for Beginners: (www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I0WF...)
Advanced Drywall Course: (www.youtube.com/watch?v=RycwY...)
Carpentry Fundamentals: (www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPnpU...)
Build a Deck with Integrated Pergola (www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC0Zw...)
Nudura One Series (www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTH7V...)
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Хобби
Love the foam sounds lol
Haha. I figured someone would.
Yes! Please continue this as a series!
It’s on the list. Just need a bit of time.
Great video! I enjoyed it from start to finish. It's great to see how to put it together. I'm looking forward to more how-to videos!
Awesome!
Great sound effects with foam.
love the sound effects!!!
Thanks for the Vid...! what type screws are you using in the 1x4's at the joints?
Thank you it really helps me.
You’re welcome. Share the video with other beginners
Great video! Does it need any bracing at the very bottom where it meets the footing to prevent lifting?
Great video. Thank you
You are welcome!
It is really a very good technique.
Pretty good for beginners.
I'm curious on the wood scabs at the joints, what are you screwing into? Just the foam? Or into the black plastic parts? Using screws I would guess?
Awesome content I’d like to see how you approach window and door openings. Including bracing and prep for concrete 🤘🏻💪🏻👌🏻
It’s on my list to do.
What is the spacing of the vertical rebar coming out of the footer ?
Thanks!
You’re welcome
Hey Kody, great to see you back to making videos more regularly. I think I'm finalized on using Nudura. The ability to ship more in less space is a big deciding factor. My only issue is I want to use the Fox blocks bucks. I want to eliminate the thermal bridge. Do you see any issue with using the Fox buck with the Nudura block?
I’m sure you can mix the systems but I don’t know enough about the fox bucks to give you a definite answer.
I’m guessing that if the total wall thickness is the same with both block then it should work.
Thank-you
No worries! Share the video with others if you don’t mind.
What is the max wall height you can pour in one shot? I see a lot of 'builders' breaking up the pours (one pour for each floor). That seems like a waste of time/money, but I can see how stacking would be easier.
I subscribed to your channel when I saw the ACH value of one of your latest buildings was 0.23, super impressive. That ACH value made me interested in ICF because it made achieving such low values possible with little effort. I will like you to go into details the steps you took when building that house to achieve such a low ACH value. I am very interested in the ACH value you can achieve if you really focus on getting the lowest value. Hope to meet you one day, stay blessed.
Hi Daniel! I’m glad the video helped you realize how easy it is to achieve an air tight home. That was my goal!
I will make a video someday on how I achieved that number. It wasn’t that hard.
what is ACH?
@@topbuilders3440ACH air changes per hour and is a measure of how many times the air within a defined space is replaced. The lower the number of air changes, the less energy is required to keep that air at a comfortable temperature. If you cool/heat a house with a lower ACH the temperature is maintained for longer because that cooled or heated air is trapped in the building.
Ty
Why not clip the lower level on the second course? It is just little clips. And I didn't see the vertical rebar getting tied. Do they snap in too?
Hi, Kody. Thanks for the video. Did you screw the scabs on cut ends to the foam or to something solid inside the foam or inside the form?
The scabs are fastened to the snap-ties that are embedded in the foam, I think every 8 inches - which are then fastened to each other "through" the concrete via the slide-in webs. The webs are variable size to allow different core depth.
I see Greg answered that.
@@gregfitzpatrick1824 Thank you
@@uptokode Thank you
Way better than Nudura's own videos!
🙏
I need some cheesy 80’s music for the next ones!! Haha.
Kody if I am doing slab on grade with a frost wall 42" into ground with ~1.5 to 2' out of ground how do you stagger rebar? Is it same way as if you had a basement?
Yes exactly. Rebar placement would be the same but because you have fill on both sides of the wall it doesn’t matter if you bar is to the inside or outside anymore. I would keep it the same as a basement.
I have questions, is there a way to cantilever a second floor 2 ft over with using ICF forms? Thank you for your response!
We’ve offset the 2nd floor back from the main floor walls so I don’t see why you can’t over beyond the main floor to the outside.
For our situation, the space from the bottom of the floor system to the bottom of the windows (54” high) was the header or lintel that allowed the 2nd floor to span over the main with no support. You’re going to need an engineer
Hi, I'm in the process of building our house. No engineerings been done, just 20+ years in construction and research to help get to this point. I tend to over build to make up for lack of technical knowledge so I've used heavier bars and thicker footings. Me and my wife have already poured a monolithic slab above grade 20" and planned on ICF. My original design has me overhanging ICF 2" off the slab as sort of a drip edge and eventually a stopping point for a stone veneer skirt. It also helps hide some of the formwork issues we had on the stem walls.
My question is, should I have any issues with the 2" overhang? The foam is 2-5/8" so i will still have 5/8" bearing on the slab. I'm hoping this isn't an issue prior to pour day or on pour day. Any advise is appreciated and because of your experience I felt it was a worthy question for my 1st ever comment on RUclips.
Thanks!
I can’t see there being an issue with the foam overhanging that 2”. Every horizontal break needs a drip cap so the water doesn’t follow its way back underneath the foam and toward the slab. The metal lip of the drip cap is what allows water to break off and fall away.
Thanks, I was thinking about a flashing at the bottom of the ICF! I was more worried about the ICF block bowing out and releasing the concrete.
How much overlap you need for bars in vertical directions? For example for second floor walls over first floor wall.
The rule is 40 times the diameter of the bar you are using. We just go 2 feet to keep it easy.
Hi Kody.., 👋 Can you also do a segment instructing how to do an ICF floor system integrated into a wall solution..??? 😉 I'm referrng to the image in the large poster at the back of your shop toward the left.??? 🤔 It has a car on an elevated ICF floor slab..!!! 👍💯😎 Thanks..!!!
That system is called “Fortruss”. I have yet to do one but when I do there will be footage on it!
Once a row of block is clicked onto another,how can they be taken apart in case of a mistake ?
Would love to see how to check for level and level the blocks after the 2nd or 3rd row as I know that can be an issue if your footings aren't dead level. Maybe that's the better route, is to ensure your footings are all dead to rights level.
Just take some extra time to make your footings deadly level. 👌👌
If you were building a shop/garage or other tall wall (say 16-20’) would you pour it in one shot?
I like to pour 10 feet at a time. Hard to vibrate much taller than that. But I know guys who would pour those heights in one shot.
How long does it take to build an ICF house if all equipment are on site and the weather is perfect?
That depends on a lot but no more time than any other build. It takes care of more steps at one time.
Have you tried Helix Steel in lieu of rebars? If so, would you recommend it?
I’ve never tried. My one supplier ran the math and said it’s honestly not worth it. Below grade where you need more strength you almost can’t put enough helix in the wall. Let alone the expense.
Maybe it has its place if you want to do a 4” above grade wall where there’s no room for rebar and a place to run a vibrator down when pouring.
@@uptokode helix micro rebar has received engineering approval and been installed in concrete for millions of cubic feet of walls.
Consider doing research on a product before dismissing it.
@@uptokode Regarding Helix micro rebar;never trust a supplier who does not handle a product to give an unbiased opinion on that product.
Good video
Kody can you do a video on the attachment of interior finish trim around windows and doors. The way i see it now there is not enough material on window buck to catch a 4" or 6" trim piece around windows or doors.
Hi Dan. 4” trim is easy to attach. The buck is about centre of the trim after you account for the window jamb and the insulation gap, etc. Now if you want to install big trim like the 6” you mentioned, then here are a few options for you.
For me I would just keep the standard block and glue the trim to the drywall. There’s no shooting in an ICF so all you need is attachment so the glue can set.
All these other options add time and money,
You can decide to add extra lumber to the buck so it has 3” of wood all the way around… OR… router 1/2” deep on the inside and remove that foam so you can install strips of 1/2” plywood around the buck , flush with the foam. Then drywall. Now you have lots of attachment in behind.
@@uptokode Kody thanks for the detailed response.
You’re welcome!
Why do you not have a starter bar for fixing the vertical rising wall
I’m not clear on the question. Sorry.
I want to build my new apartment complex out of ICF but there are so few options for architects and builders here in Houston, TX who can reliably get it right. Any contacts in this area?
I hope you can get it built the way you want it. I would start by phoning a rep from Nudura, Logix, Amvic, Fox or any manufacturer. They will know some people.
If you find yourself a practical engineer or architect they will realize this system is super easy to use
How do you feel about the Fast Foot monopour system? Can you do a video on that?
Is that where they pour the footing and wall at the same time? If so I am not familiar with that system
@@uptokode Yep, it's by a company called Fab-Form.
Why not cut your blocks to have a common vertical seam for the side that didn't come out to a standard length?
That’s a good question
In the planning ahead department, knowing the block dimensions for corners and full blocks, couldn't the footings be designed to land on the proper 2" increment? This would minimize any funny cuts.
Can an ICF wall be poured in stages? Like the bottom 4' then the top 4' a few weeks later?
We pour a 10 ft wall in 2 stages but all in the same day. You pour the 1/2 half and then come around an top up the 2nd half.
For additional floors or wall height then yes we set up another 10’ height (or whatever it needs to be) and pour on top of the concrete below that’s been sitting there for a week or so.
The key is to leave rebar dowels sticking through the 1st pour so the 2nd pour can be bonded to the 1st and it keeps all structural integrity.
@@uptokode how much the rebars have to stick out in this case? Also, is pouring 10' the same day be structurally better than 2x5' in different days?
Hello Kody! Where can I find the Patreon?
Hello ! I don’t have it set up yet. If you need anything specific just email me for now. kody@uptokode.com.
This is off topic but I have a question. Has anyone ever measured the temperature of the concrete in a ICF wall? The ICF wall is sitting on a concrete footing. In colder climates, how much thermal transfer is there from the concrete footing up the concrete? If the footing is 50 degrees fahrenheit, that would the temperature of the concrete be above ground?
Can y’all demonstrate how to do gable ends on a house
Yes we will. Added to the list. Thanks for the suggestion
@@uptokode I agree. A gable end video would be amazing. Love the videos so far
Ok perfect I’ll be looking for the video
Great suggestion. My first ICF home was built in 2000 and the installer convinced me the ICF wall must terminate flat on the sill. I argued and argued, he went flat and I ended up with frame and stucco gables. Dorks!!!
Do you have a paetron account or link?
Thanks be to the Lord, Jeovah.
such a problem , in cold regions -15, there is waterlogging of the walls inside, the solution is to remove the inner layer of foam, and if you do not remove the foam layer , then the water separator and forced ventilation ... good luck to you!!!!
Never seen or heard of this before. You definitely need good ventilation and fresh air in the building but it never gets into the walls.
Anybody " contractors" in USA do this kind of building north Carolina
I’m sure there is. Ask you local ICF distributor to start. I like Nudura so check out www.Nudura.com.
A
Do you think ICF is a beyineer DIY project? If yes, why most ICF video done by contractors say: ICF is not a DIY job? If no, then what is the use of posting how to videos? (Apart from generating income for poster)!! Can you make another video explaining whether ICF is a DIY or not?!
I don't think Nudura says to spray foam corners. Why are you?
He's giving us extra tips to make it go easier for us first timers
Watch the video again. He explains why.
Watch the video again.... No explanation about any deviations from Nudura SOP.... Which is what the commentator wants to know about...
@Warren S That did not answer the question.... Or address, what I said did it????
Sorry for confusing you....
Obviously termites are not getting through poured concrete, but I have heard they like to eat and tunnel into this foam. What are the facts please??
I think they make ICF that is termite resistance and If you put a good barrier I think itd be hard for termites to get into the foam
I don’t know the answer to this. I keep getting more questions on it so I best do some learning.
We don’t have termites where I’m from.
@@uptokode yes please do. Big swaths of the USA are termite areas.
I built ICF in Florida back in 2000. Lived in the home for 10 years with no worries about termites. The outside was finished with stucco though, which probably mitigated the issue.
hey guys, is there an easy way to hang shelves on ICF? i have drywall over mine now and no why to find the plastic bars
Great question. You can use drywall anchors. And if you do find a plastic tie all the rest should be 8” spacing. That’s the most common. There’s the odd ICF block that has 6” centres.
@@uptokode awesome thanks Cody, i was thinking if all else fails ill use 8" tapcons haha
Haha. Yes that is worst case.
I failed to say,my block are 8 inches of concrete within the form .
gonna buy you a mic ... this is toooo good of content to be hard to hear
No wall is exact and you did not show a wall from ground up that may be in the middle of the lines, let's say if a home owner wants to build the basement walls but leave the house to a contractor who built it to the plans and your way was not quite to the plans. most beginners would not know want to do with a wall that didn't line up because they built it to match the plans proper.
You can make the dimensions exact but sometimes growing or shrinking the building slightly allows for a much easier install.
But if dimension was your priority you could do it. Might just take additional time to scab a “vertical joint” as we call it.
You have a valid point though
The short corner long corner makes no sense
Fair enough. Hard to describe sometimes
I didn’t like the spray foam sound,…it was annoying.
And you forgot to install Form-Lock in the 2nd row.
You can add it to the 2nd or 3rd, depending on wall height. Also, if it goes in the 2nd row it may interfere with window/door bucks. If I've understood that all correctly...
@@gregfitzpatrick1824 You should read the Nudura Installation Manual
neustif: You need, to watch the post again... he explains why.... ("And" learn why not to start a 1st sentence with the word and)
BTW "You should" get a life... so good luck with that...
@@nc3826 You should learn how to read, so good luck with that. Maybe you could enroll in a night class, reading can open up a new world for you.
neustif: thx for proving my point... and good luck with the meds you need to take... so you will be able to say something of value someday, Sir...
Don’t use these total rubbish and expensive. Just built one for a customer, never again
What went wrong ?
I wondering the same thing? If you don’t look at the big picture it can seem expensive but certainly not when you factor in all the steps that ICF covers at one time. Factor in overall efficiency and it will begin to make sense