I was a mechanic when these engines came out and the engineers at the engine plant said that they were way more durable than the 5.0 engines they replaced when run in tests. I believe them. I also have never had a head off of a 4.6 (I have off of the 5.4 once) and never tore into the bottom of the engines. Just a recipe for disaster if you ask me. I've had 2 94 4.6 that went over 265k, one 2005 that went 295k and a 96 mark viii 4 valve 4.6 that went 315k miles and they all had original timing chains and no other engine work done other than intake manifold on the 2005 and some oil filter adapter gaskets and pan gaskets. One of my 94's had valves seals replaced (for smoking at idle).
I am glad to see you messing around with a 4.6 every engine you build you make great power I am sure you will do the same with the 4.6 thanks for the content and I do learn from this channel as well I am a 51 year old Ford guy myself and really appreciate the share of knowledge and tricks. I ever get the funds I would love to have you build me a 4v Cleveland for a Fox body I had one back in the 90's miss that car was a ton of fun. I replaced a few 5 speeds but they held up good on street tires lol.
You are so right about pulling on the torque wrench after set torque has been reached. Break away torque is "always" higher than pulling to a set point and yanking on it a second time does nothing.
I remember you starting a mod 4.6 awhile back you hard a hard time finding parts ,what kind of bore and stroke can be made and compression too . Andy from unity motorsports ran a mustang with a 4.6 he might be able to get information from,good luck and keep moving forward you’ll Master it .
Yes, dry gaskets on intake. May want to replace the oil filter adapter gasket as they tend to leak every 100k or so at least on the older 4.6's. The 4 valve oil pan doesn't like the dip stick in the down position when reinstalling pan. Don't ask me how I know. I have seen the coolant pipe develop leaks under intake. Sealed with an oring at fitting. May want to replace pipe or maybe not if you don't mind pulling intake to fix it.
at 17:53 i watched your video on this subject. Of course you are right. but as long as i can remember reading all sorts of car mags , it's always bin that way. ( I'm 66 ) in fact never heard it your way until about 3 years ago listening to RUclips videos. just weighting for the sbf cam challenge..
The heater return tube can unbolt and pull off the nipple in the block. You could put a small rubber plug and cap it there, or you could heat it up and pull it out and tap it for a pipe plug, but that’ll make it useless in the future for anyone else who may want it.
My thoughts were to look for heat on rods. But that was before we got to see how good everything else was. I'm with you on how it looks I would run it.
The only real torque to yield bolts that i replace are the head bolts. The rest, i have reused with no issues. I either give them another 10 foot pounds on the torque wrench, or a little blue lock tight. Crankshaft bolts get the lock tight.
The metal intake is made for built engines. It helps on top end but kills bottom end on the Mod engines. I took mine back off and put the Ford factory PI intake on. I bought a new one from the dealer.
Thanks for the video, and for jumping in with both feet on the 4.6 2V engines! The engine looks clean. The intake looks really good. So what cams are you going with Comp Cams or . . . ? And the Dominator carb does look killer! 😎👍🤜💥
Liked and Subscribed. I love anyone building fords. Very hard to find. My son is the one that showed me your videos to start with. He says that I should have my 1959 Thunderbird with a 352 special built by you. I'm wondering what that would cost it currently runs and drives
I know you don't want to and you probably hate the new stuff as much as I, but, MSD makes a system to use the unit coils I believe, that is probably alot cleaner and more powerful and more adjustable than the distributor
Not more powerful or adjustable, just a way to control the timing and such with a laptop. Not really interested in doing it that way, I think coil packs look hideous LOL
Number of bolts for the valve cover. I think almost everything else is interchangeable. A few other differences are number of bolts in crank for flywheel/flex plate, also cam gears, some were press fit I think.
1: Buy a used S/C kit off of Ebay 2: Bolt it on that 4.6L 2V 3: Run the piss out of it until it blows up 4: Move on to a better & much cheaper N/A engine to mod.
I was a mechanic when these engines came out and the engineers at the engine plant said that they were way more durable than the 5.0 engines they replaced when run in tests. I believe them. I also have never had a head off of a 4.6 (I have off of the 5.4 once) and never tore into the bottom of the engines. Just a recipe for disaster if you ask me. I've had 2 94 4.6 that went over 265k, one 2005 that went 295k and a 96 mark viii 4 valve 4.6 that went 315k miles and they all had original timing chains and no other engine work done other than intake manifold on the 2005 and some oil filter adapter gaskets and pan gaskets. One of my 94's had valves seals replaced (for smoking at idle).
I was a Ford master tech. These are great engines. Other then oil leaks and some odd ball stuff , they ran great.
I am glad to see you messing around with a 4.6 every engine you build you make great power I am sure you will do the same with the 4.6 thanks for the content and I do learn from this channel as well I am a 51 year old Ford guy myself and really appreciate the share of knowledge and tricks. I ever get the funds I would love to have you build me a 4v Cleveland for a Fox body I had one back in the 90's miss that car was a ton of fun. I replaced a few 5 speeds but they held up good on street tires lol.
You are so right about pulling on the torque wrench after set torque has been reached. Break away torque is "always" higher than pulling to a set point and yanking on it a second time does nothing.
I remember you starting a mod 4.6 awhile back you hard a hard time finding parts ,what kind of bore and stroke can be made and compression too . Andy from unity motorsports ran a mustang with a 4.6 he might be able to get information from,good luck and keep moving forward you’ll Master it .
I find this build to be very interesting. Thanks!
Yes, dry gaskets on intake. May want to replace the oil filter adapter gasket as they tend to leak every 100k or so at least on the older 4.6's. The 4 valve oil pan doesn't like the dip stick in the down position when reinstalling pan. Don't ask me how I know. I have seen the coolant pipe develop leaks under intake. Sealed with an oring at fitting. May want to replace pipe or maybe not if you don't mind pulling intake to fix it.
She's clean Brent. Time to make horsepower!
I got a 1997 Thunderbird recently and was considering changing to a Windsor motor. Maybe this could change my mind. Thank you and i love the videos!!
at 17:53 i watched your video on this subject. Of course you are right. but as long as i can remember reading all sorts of car mags , it's always bin that way. ( I'm 66 ) in fact never heard it your way until about 3 years ago listening to RUclips videos. just weighting for the sbf cam challenge..
You can tap and plug that hole in the valley. It's a slip fit seal with 2 o-rings.
The heater return tube can unbolt and pull off the nipple in the block. You could put a small rubber plug and cap it there, or you could heat it up and pull it out and tap it for a pipe plug, but that’ll make it useless in the future for anyone else who may want it.
my 2002 ford f-150 has a 5.4 two valve is a romeo engine and it has forged crank and all cross bolt mains windsers have cast crank
My thoughts were to look for heat on rods. But that was before we got to see how good everything else was. I'm with you on how it looks I would run it.
The Angry Octopus Intake manifold from Sea Serpent Performance is the best for the carburation of the modular engines.
Link?
Thanks Brent!
The only real torque to yield bolts that i replace are the head bolts. The rest, i have reused with no issues. I either give them another 10 foot pounds on the torque wrench, or a little blue lock tight.
Crankshaft bolts get the lock tight.
Dominator all the way !!!
The metal intake is made for built engines. It helps on top end but kills bottom end on the Mod engines. I took mine back off and put the Ford factory PI intake on. I bought a new one from the dealer.
Thanks for the video, and for jumping in with both feet on the 4.6 2V engines! The engine looks clean. The intake looks really good. So what cams are you going with Comp Cams or . . . ? And the Dominator carb does look killer! 😎👍🤜💥
Go for it Brent.
Great viewing brent. Thinking with the heater water pipe can you use a small core plug to close that off.
Liked and Subscribed. I love anyone building fords. Very hard to find. My son is the one that showed me your videos to start with. He says that I should have my 1959 Thunderbird with a 352 special built by you. I'm wondering what that would cost it currently runs and drives
If you want to go cheap on the rods ( NA ) you can use 2013+ coyote or boss rods. I think they're good for 600 HP or so.
2011+ Coyote rods would be an adequate upgrade and cheap as hell too!!!
You may want to check to see if it has plastic cam chain tensioners. Can't remember the years. They used them around that time for a couple of years.
Keep an eye on the 10mm socket. They seem to disappear.
They used to make an electric water pump with a dummy pulley so you could still run a conventional serp belt set up.
yes dominator
I'm guessing you're giving up lots of midrange torque with that intake vs factory big plenum intake.
The goal right now is to just get it running on the dyno. It takes a carbureted intake to do it. I'm not concerned about power.
Curious on the long-term hp goals are trying for? Thanks
550.
I know you don't want to and you probably hate the new stuff as much as I, but, MSD makes a system to use the unit coils I believe, that is probably alot cleaner and more powerful and more adjustable than the distributor
Not more powerful or adjustable, just a way to control the timing and such with a laptop. Not really interested in doing it that way, I think coil packs look hideous LOL
All you need know is 302 stroker assembly and TrickFlow top end in future......
Was the water pump well rusted out? Ive seen some so bad i had to replace the block.
A stroker 2v would be interesting .
Next on the bucket list, 5.3 navigator 4v?🤔🤔🤔
im old school what is a 5.3 navigator?
@LoneWrencher it's actually 5.4
Please tell us how to determine between a Romeo and the other 4.6 . Are the parts interchangeable ?
Number of bolts for the valve cover. I think almost everything else is interchangeable. A few other differences are number of bolts in crank for flywheel/flex plate, also cam gears, some were press fit I think.
some are,, some are not like main bearings,, heads,, timing chain set,,,
stick with efi t-body locks like a carb but runs better
where can someone get one of those 750 dominators?
Mine is fresh if you want to buy it. Everything is for sale here.
@@lykinsmotorsports did drew go thru it and what is the price and what other carbs do you have from 750-1000 cfms
Drew did everything to it, including color/rebuild. Email me if you're interested.
I don't think k rod bolts are torque to yield. I think they are torque to angle.
better take the chain cover off and replace the chain set,,,,,
Goal is to just get it running on the dyno and make sure all the support systems work. Then it comes apart.
1: Buy a used S/C kit off of Ebay
2: Bolt it on that 4.6L 2V
3: Run the piss out of it until it blows up
4: Move on to a better & much cheaper N/A engine to mod.
Nah…