A couple of tips that you might like to make your work more efficient. Layout all of the lumber even at one end_Flush w/ the trailer frame and only trim all the boards once instead of from both ends. Also, use "Nylock" nuts on all of the vertical bolts. Road vibration will eventually loosen all of those deck boards. And, last but not least, you did a great job on the welding for a first timer! Enjoy your trailer
We have one of these at the apartment complex I work at. We have beat the hell out of it and hauled it over every curb in the complex a billion times and it's still going strong.
Hi Sam, I guess it is pretty tough. It's relative small at only 4' x 8' and perfect for utility work in a complex. I run it through my yard behind the tractor to haul mulch and brush. I don't have any curbs, but I do occasionally hit a tree :lol:
@8:50 I noticed this too when I was making my HF trailer. My solution was a bit less complicated, so I thought I would share it. I simply bought some PVC trim strips at Lowe's. I was able to get the trim in the exact thickness to fill that gap and prevent the deck from bowing. You simply cut it to length and mark it for the hole locations. It's PVC so it drills easily. Do this for all the cross beams. I also replaced the corner bolts as well as all the bolts on the top with galvanized fence bolts with round tops that counter sink when tightened. My deck when completed was 3/4" (pressure treated) with a smooth surface (rounded 'bumps' as opposed to hex head cap bolts) that allows me to roll or push stuff in easily. Again, keeping the weight down to maximize load capacity.
My solution was different. I used router to remove around 1/8 from the sides of the plywood (along the edges). Now the plywood sits nice and flat resting on all the metal bars.
These trailers are kind of fun to build as you can be creative. I used 3/4" CDX for the deck and haul 2 dirt bikes on it. Added an iron pipe from Lowes to the front for tie down points and tow 2 dirt bikes on it. Clean the wheel bearings and grease them well from the beginning, balance the unbalanced wheels and rock on. My OEM tires got old (have had the trailer 10 years) and put some Yokahama radial car tires on it, rides much better now, especially on rough surfaces.
Nice vid there vicos...I bought this model and put it together back in 2004 to haul a Harley Davidson from San Diego CA to Pensacola FL where I live when I retired from the Marines...held up good, but now the cheaply painted HF steel c-channels have rusted. For the price, I could not beat if. My only note to add to your vid, is that you can drill holes for the d-rings w/o worrying about degrading the strength of the metal...if worried, add a backup plate of same thickness behind the c-channel.
I guess some people just like to make things harder than they have to be!! I built this same trailer out of the box in 2005, and followed all the plans given, I did it for my A/c company I was starting. Here it is 2016, AND the trailer is still in use today, I've only replaced the 4X8, 3/4 inch ply I put down for the deck, Note even if you use pressure treated ply, once it dries in the sun for a week or so, PAINT IT with good high quality paint!!
What I do to my trailers is first I take out the stock trailing wiring. I got double insulated wire or u can use extension cords. I run them thru pvc pipe and will run and make all my connections in a box. then I run them out to my lights. some trailers I put 2 boxes 1 in front and 1 in back. For those running lights I usually slide them into a 3 inch tube and cut it out so I got protection. if I don't do that I usually find a way to break a light or two. but good work I redo most of my trailers after I buy them
Sounds like a good way to protect the wiring, especially if you're doing long haul or moving around in the woods where brush might snag the wires and do some damage.
Hi Kawi9893, The primary reason was that I would have had to drill many more holes in the frame that lined up with the 2x10s. This would have weakened the frame and introduced new points of rust. The 2x4 cross members allowed me to use existing bolt holes. I could also use just 2 bolts per 2x10 and screw the rest. Also raised the platform up level with the fenders so I could carry a load that extended over the wheels. Just the way I chose to do it, not right or wrong.
what an amazing review and an amazing job you did--based on your video I know exactly what to do and how to build my harbor freight trailer--And I want to teach myself how to weld as well thanks for an excellent video
You built a nice trailer I like that you changed the side pockets so it is a true 4 ft. wide ...Also like the 4 bolts on the hitch instead of the 2 long ones
I've found that if you change the tongue, and add rails these work great for small 12'-14' jon boats. A lot cheaper than a used worn out boat trailer that I usually have to modify anyway.
As an old retired welder I would advice you to be careful not to snag your self on one of your welds. LOL crank your heat up on the welder you are welding to cold to apply a smooth weld with proper penetration.
They had a sell on this trailer. After trying to get one for over two months I gave up. They can't seem to get this to the stores from China. So just went down to Lowe's and got a better trailer and saved my self 7 to 8 hours on putting this one together.
Thank you very much for your fine, hi res video of this trailer. It's the same model that I plane on picking up from Yuma, AZ. HF. in a month. I was mainly curious about how much room I'm going to need in the rear of my van for this kit and, from somewhere else probably, I'll need to see how much hassle and cost it will be to register this puppy in the state of Arizona. I'll check back here to see if there are any comments on this.
Like your approach to this whole project vicos....gives me some ideas to incorporate into my nice little Harbor Freight trailer...they are good engineering excercises aren't they...
Great video. I used a 3/4" X 4' X 8' sheet of plywood and replaced the bolts that held the plywood with carriage bolts. Suggestion: You might want to raise your tail lights, I bent my licence plate every time I tilted the bed.
You could always weld and bolt things on like the tongue hitch. That’s what I do. I figure the 2 types of connections are over kill but if 1 type fails I still have a backup
People say I sound like Owen Wilson (somewhat/sometimes) took me a minute to figure it out, but I closed my eyes on this video, and I heard batman, and mr. Mom!!! I felt like I was getting a tutorial from Michael Keaton (which is super awesome!!) I can't be the only one to think that!!!! Great video BTW, very informative:))
just an update, I've put about 2000 miles on the trailer with no bearing issues. The first trip was about 900 miles. I stopped about every 100 miles and checked the temp of the hub's with an IR thermometer, all is well.
we have over 10,000 miles on ours (search little hhr that could) with only one issue. the greese fitting on one hug was broke when I purchased it. HF sent me a whole new hub no questions asked just to replace the greese fitting. stock greese and bearing looked great about 500 miles ago.
4 bolts in the hitch. Yeah, only a few pennies, Better safe than Sorry!!! I'd also recommend some longer, stronger, safety chains. At a construction company years ago, we would criss-cross the chains under the tongue so IF the hitch let go the tongue wouldn't hit the ground but it would be cradled in the ''safety net''
Nice job. With those "D" rings, you could have filled in those bolt holes and made plug welds out of them. Just a thought. Also looks like you might have been able to run a little hotter with the welding, at least on the stake pockets. Next time! lol
Thanks for the constructive advice :) Being a noob to welding and having already warped that one cross member, I was constantly fearful of using too much heat. Maybe some day I can get some first hand instruction from a pro.
@@Vicos Man, that is for sure! Still make plenty of mistakes these days, but now instead of blaming it on "youth", I can blame it on "old age". NOT that I am aging gracefully, LOL!
Could the rails have been swapped or flipped so the stake cutouts were next to the inner faces? Would it be better to drill the retaining pin holes before welding on the external stake pockets? How about notching out the lateral 2x4s to clear the lip of the transverse rails and bolt heads?
..i currently have a 6x10 haulmark transport cargo trailer.reg says 2990 gvwr. it has 205/75d14 tires on it.,,,,,my problem is my garage door opening is 84 " high .but the trailer measure aprox 86 1/2 inches high. i was able to get it into my garage just barley by flattening the tire. but makes it very unpractical to use having to re-inflate and deflate with every use. have to keep it garaged due to HOA rules i'm thinking of changing the rims and tires from the 14 inch to a 12 inch in the homes of gaing the clearance i need to pull it in and out without messing with the tire inflation...... but can my trailer run safely on a 12 inch tire with a d rating ? also will the 12 inch give me the additional aprox i need to clear the garage height ?.......any thoughts or recommendations?
Depends on many things like how big and heavy your shed is and can you get it up on the trailer in the first place. You would have to compare the load capacity of the trailer to the estimated weight of the shed. Can you secure it safely so it doesn't fall off? If you don't have far to go, I've seen them use PVC pipe as rollers (probably 3" or 4"). Just push or pull it over the rollers and move the back piece to the front as you go.
Now glop some stuff in the deck holes you drilled so they don't rot out and your deck doesn't just go flying off in the first breeze.. Nice welding job for a first timer although I would have reinforced the steel around the welds, perhaps 8th" steel a few inches in either direction, but I like to do overkill on things of this nature. I'd also repaint the entire frame as they use some real crap paint.. Over all a decent job.. You may end up replacing the pine deck with something more substantial..white oak if you can lay your hands on it..
could one not get a heavier axle from a junkyard as to not worry as much about the weight as well as adding extra springs ? I have never owned a trailer and am in the beginning of research . Do you think that one could build a small camper on that trailer as is with no modifications as to suspension .
You could get a heavier axle and springs from a junkyard, but you're still limited to the trailer's declared GVWR by law. If you wanted to put more weight on the trailer than it is rated for, you'd have to essentially rebuild the entire trailer before registering it with your local DMV, and if you're going to do that you may as well build one from scratch. As for building it into a small camper, I don't see any reason why not. You may end up having to relocate some of the lights to remain DOT compliant, but as long as you keep it under the rated weight you can build whatever you want off of it.
I'm thinking of getting a Harbor Freight Trailer and using it to haul from Missouri to Alaska. People are warning me that the 12" tires and bearings may not be able to handle the 4,000 mile trip. Do you think the trailer can make such a trip?
What trailer (for a base of a tiny home on wheels is the most strongest 7' x 12' trailer to pull with a Grand Cherokee Jeep (Hemi engine - pull up to 7,200#s)?
The 2x10 bolts only thru the 2x4 which is bolted to the frame. The 2x4 is mounted flush to the edge of the frame member, which gives you a good 2-inches or so of wood you can bolt through w/o hitting the frame member. This also makes is easier if you have to replace one of the 2x10s in the future (U can just drill up from below thru the existing bolt hole in the 2x4). Don't forget to recess your bolt heads in the wood so they are flush with the surface.
@@Franksinatra96 You do in Maryland. I don't remember what it cost, but it was not cheap. I believe the cost was based on the size/capacity of the trailer. I never renewed the tags because of the cost and no longer use it off the property.
@@Vicos thank for the information now my other question was did you had to insure it cause I basically want to tow motorcycle as a business with mines so is it insured through your vehicle or you have to pay seperate
@@Franksinatra96 My policy covered it as part of my other vehicle's coverage. However, typically you can not use your private insurance to cover your business use. If you make a claim against your private insurance for an accident when you were conducting business, they will deny the claim and maybe even terminate your policy. Best to call your agent and tell them what you are thinking of doing and let them consult you on what you have to do. Better to be above board. If you ever had a bad accident where your trailer came loose and hurt someone and then the insurance denied it because it was business use, you could be in a world of hurt.
instead of welding my D rings to the side of the trailer. I'm drilling two holes through my plywood and cross bar fram. and running my flush D ring bolts through that.
+Jeremiah Almos I planned on doing the same thing. Let me know how it turned out? I don't have access to welding equipment, so was just going to go drill through 5/8" plywood and the frame to mount my 4 d-rings.
Hi Vicos, nice vid. I purchased this trailer by mistake but... I'm going to keep it. A couple of questions (1) would the "80 Amp Inverter Arc Welder" being sold by Harbor Freight be able to handle the soldering work on this trailer (installing the sidings)? (2) where did you get your sidings. The kit doesn't come with it and HF doesn't carry it either.
I'm just a newbie at welding, so probably not the one to recommend anything. I used a $140 110V welder from Northern Tool just so I could learn to weld. By sidings, are you referring to the stake pockets where you insert the 2x4's? If yes, this trailer has built-in pockets, but then you can't get a full 4-feet across---which is why I welded the pockets on the outside. got them from red trailers online. You can also get bolt-on pockets.
I'm not a pro welder but I know a little. The HF flux-core wire feed welder should be fine to weld the thin metal on this trailer. Check out chucky2009 s RUclips for basic newbie welding lessons.
7:02 Every 20% HF coupon I've seen has said they can't be used on trailers. You must have lucked out and gotten a cashier that pushed it through for you.
I saw the same thing and just discovered that HB has separate specials for the trailers on their website from time to time. I just missed the special for 1720 lb trailer and it was better than 20%. It ended 3/31/20 and the coupon was for 339.99. I am going to try to be a little patient and keep my eye out for the next time.
Great video, but you have to put a dollar sign on your time. Putting together the trailer, then the building the decking, ordering and waiting for parts, paint, and then welding you could have bought one new 10 times better then this. Always put a $ sign on your time kids! Cheers!
I would have use a piece of 4'x8', 4" thick steel plate. And used 3/4" x 5" grade 8 bolts. Then I could really freak out folks at the harbour freight parking lot.
Who can really say for sure if it is necessary. My take on it is this: the thing is manufactured in China, probably in sweatshop-like conditions. They don't always use the highest quality materials and the grease could very well be contaminated with dirt. Since the bearings are one of the critical elements of the trailer, why not take a few minutes to clean the bearings and repack them?
I (at first) took my wheels to a tire shop to have them clean out the original Chinese grease, and replace it with a high quality marine grease (I bought the HF boat trailer). Unfortunately, they bent one of the brass&rubber(?) seal, and I quickly found out that I could not find a replacement seal at HF, or anyplace else, due to the odd (metric) size. HF did finally send 2 seals 6 (!!) months later, after many calls to them. To finish the trailer, I finally had to just straighten out the brass part of the seal, and reuse it. So, be careful when removing and replacing the bearings, to not damage the seal! I also put on Bearing Buddies so I could be sure to keep the bearings greased properly. - and if you go that route, be sure you find the size that fits the odd size HF trailer axle.
It's a great idea to do that. These are popular trailer in the motorcycle track riding world. At least in the mid west area. A lot of friends are repacking the bearings just to extend the life. It's doesn't hurt. 😉
I've been using the original grease and bearing for over 10 years now without any issues. I use the trailer regularly nad haul a small ATV with it. I would do the bearing if I used it commercially, but for intermittent use, they should outlast the trailer.
Do you think that Trex composite decking could be used for the floor boards? I've borrowed a friend's trailer a few times and his floor boards are warped, cracked, and cupped like crazy. Just wondering if composite would be strong enough, that's all.
Composite or Synthetic, may be strong enough. I would check online to see how much weight the material can hold, considering the unsupported distance between cross braces. I know there are charts for wood that show how much pressure/weight it can sustain etc. so you should be able to find a scientific answer.
John Treble, what I did was get 3/4" outdoor plywood for the decking. I found at Lowe's a deck paint, that goes on thick, that is made for wood decks. Works pretty good
That lumber is way over the top. If that is oak you could've had them cut down to 1" thick and it would be more than enough. That probably takes away at least 100 lbs off of your capacity.
+Vicos Ya know, they tell you very specifically in the directions for impact wrenches(at least the one I have, a dewalt) not to use it as a drill. Whatever works though
+Soulman1282 That's what I was thinking, when you add heavy sideboards. Plus creating pockets around the bolt heads all over the deck will trap water and dirt. The Oak may be able to resist rot so that may not be a real issue. I got this trailer at Harbor Freight a couple years ago it was on sale and I had a 20% off coupon so it only cost $150. s8.postimg.org/vdruv0uad/i_Phone_Picture_389.jpg s9.postimg.org/xcz6jz0bj/i_Phone_Picture_391.jpg I think there is about 200lbs of wood and fittings in the 2.5 x 4 x 5 box but it really made it into a serviceable little utility trailer.
Not even close. He has a 1790 lbs weight load, the same as mine. For practically everyone that gets one of these trailers, you'll hardly ever come close to that load capacity
Guy H. So yah! Load it to the max ! And tow it with a Toyota Corolla! Live on the edge! What do you mean I can't weld across the frame? I did it, didn't I? ...... Drive safe.
Once you modify adapt a pre-engineered piece of equipment you void any warranty and accept liability for the structural integrity of the modification have a made. Many times two bolts are not better and four when you have drilled holes in metal which has made a sub-structure weaker than its intended purpose. I am not saying this is the case here but certainly big consideration before undertaking structural modifications.
This is what I purchased: /shop/tools/product_200403263_200403263 $190 now, but it was on sale for $140, plus I think I used one of those $50 off a $250+ coupons (bought a few other things at the same time). I'm a pretty patient shopper. I don't trust Harbor Freight when it comes to electrical items.
I know this is a late reply, but I built one in 1994 in Maryland, put a wood box on it, stuffed it full of belongings and drove it to Arizona. Never had an issue. I'm currently building another now for camping with a few modifications but as long as your wheel bearings are packed correctly and you don't overload it you should be good.
+Evandre Molina Illegal! Top speed for vehicles towing trailers in Ca used to be 45, It may be different now but you would never want to tow any trailer at 70mph, especially if loaded.
not much (or anything) that I have found. looking at part numbers on the acle, hubs, leaf... they are all the same. at just over 1000 pounds it's bottomed out. I have about 10,000 miles on mine and 1000 pounds is all I would do.
Hello AingonAtelia! I just posted the new video showing the near-finished results. All that remains is to weld on the new heavy duty Jack Stand I picked up from HF for $20. Watch here: v=LLKywADGFRo
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
A couple of tips that you might like to make your work more efficient. Layout all of the lumber even at one end_Flush w/ the trailer frame and only trim all the boards once instead of from both ends.
Also, use "Nylock" nuts on all of the vertical bolts. Road vibration will eventually loosen all of those deck boards.
And, last but not least, you did a great job on the welding for a first timer! Enjoy your trailer
We have one of these at the apartment complex I work at. We have beat the hell out of it and hauled it over every curb in the complex a billion times and it's still going strong.
Hi Sam, I guess it is pretty tough. It's relative small at only 4' x 8' and perfect for utility work in a complex. I run it through my yard behind the tractor to haul mulch and brush. I don't have any curbs, but I do occasionally hit a tree :lol:
You can buy those stake holders in the hardware section of Home Depot. They are used for doors or gates.
@8:50 I noticed this too when I was making my HF trailer. My solution was a bit less complicated, so I thought I would share it.
I simply bought some PVC trim strips at Lowe's. I was able to get the trim in the exact thickness to fill that gap and prevent the deck from bowing. You simply cut it to length and mark it for the hole locations. It's PVC so it drills easily. Do this for all the cross beams.
I also replaced the corner bolts as well as all the bolts on the top with galvanized fence bolts with round tops that counter sink when tightened. My deck when completed was 3/4" (pressure treated) with a smooth surface (rounded 'bumps' as opposed to hex head cap bolts) that allows me to roll or push stuff in easily.
Again, keeping the weight down to maximize load capacity.
My solution was different. I used router to remove around 1/8 from the sides of the plywood (along the edges). Now the plywood sits nice and flat resting on all the metal bars.
These trailers are kind of fun to build as you can be creative. I used 3/4" CDX for the deck and haul 2 dirt bikes on it. Added an iron pipe from Lowes to the front for tie down points and tow 2 dirt bikes on it.
Clean the wheel bearings and grease them well from the beginning, balance the unbalanced wheels and rock on. My OEM tires got old (have had the trailer 10 years) and put some Yokahama radial car tires on it, rides much better now, especially on rough surfaces.
I was just thinking about radial tires the other day. I'll bet the handling is night and day. Thanks for the input.
Nice job. You did a fine job welding too I must say. I need to try that myself.
Nice vid there vicos...I bought this model and put it together back in 2004 to haul a Harley Davidson from San Diego CA to Pensacola FL where I live when I retired from the Marines...held up good, but now the cheaply painted HF steel c-channels have rusted. For the price, I could not beat if. My only note to add to your vid, is that you can drill holes for the d-rings w/o worrying about degrading the strength of the metal...if worried, add a backup plate of same thickness behind the c-channel.
I guess some people just like to make things harder than they have to be!!
I built this same trailer out of the box in 2005, and followed all the plans given, I did it for my A/c company I was starting. Here it is 2016, AND the trailer is still in use today, I've only replaced the 4X8, 3/4 inch ply I put down for the deck, Note even if you use pressure treated ply, once it dries in the sun for a week or so, PAINT IT with good high quality paint!!
What I do to my trailers is first I take out the stock trailing wiring. I got double insulated wire or u can use extension cords. I run them thru pvc pipe and will run and make all my connections in a box. then I run them out to my lights. some trailers I put 2 boxes 1 in front and 1 in back. For those running lights I usually slide them into a 3 inch tube and cut it out so I got protection. if I don't do that I usually find a way to break a light or two. but good work I redo most of my trailers after I buy them
Sounds like a good way to protect the wiring, especially if you're doing long haul or moving around in the woods where brush might snag the wires and do some damage.
Vicos
They now put the stakes pockets on the outside of the frame similar to what you did. I bet they say this video and improved it by your feedbacks.
Hi Kawi9893, The primary reason was that I would have had to drill many more holes in the frame that lined up with the 2x10s. This would have weakened the frame and introduced new points of rust. The 2x4 cross members allowed me to use existing bolt holes. I could also use just 2 bolts per 2x10 and screw the rest. Also raised the platform up level with the fenders so I could carry a load that extended over the wheels. Just the way I chose to do it, not right or wrong.
what an amazing review and an amazing job you did--based on your video I know exactly what to do and how to build my harbor freight trailer--And I want to teach myself how to weld as well
thanks for an excellent video
Can you post the store you were talking about where they have extra parts for these trailers. Thanks
You built a nice trailer I like that you changed the side pockets so it is a true 4 ft. wide ...Also like the 4 bolts on the hitch instead of the 2 long ones
Hello, thank you for the compliment! I appreciate you taking time to stop by and post a comment.
Outstanding Job!!! Thanks for the build!!
I've found that if you change the tongue, and add rails these work great for small 12'-14' jon boats. A lot cheaper than a used worn out boat trailer that I usually have to modify anyway.
kirby lane, bearing buddies maybe?
As an old retired welder I would advice you to be careful not to snag your self on one of your welds. LOL crank your heat up on the welder you are welding to cold to apply a smooth weld with proper penetration.
They had a sell on this trailer. After trying to get one for over two months I gave up. They can't seem to get this to the stores from China. So just went down to Lowe's and got a better trailer and saved my self 7 to 8 hours on putting this one together.
Well done, very well spoken with great vocabulary.
Thank you! I always loved California (other than the LA traffic) and wished I had made a reason to live there.
Thank you very much for your fine, hi res video of this trailer. It's the same model that I plane on picking up from Yuma, AZ. HF. in a month.
I was mainly curious about how much room I'm going to need in the rear of my van for this kit and, from somewhere else probably, I'll need to see how much hassle and cost it will be to register this puppy in the state of Arizona. I'll check back here to see if there are any comments on this.
When bolting the frame together, you should measure from corner to corner to get it square before tightening the bolts.
Great job on the video. I had one of these Harbor Freight trailers a while ago, it worked well and was a great little trailer.
Gotta recommend using a drill with drill bits. Your impact driver can shear that paddle bit right off pretty easily. (Ask me how I know lol)
Holy cow! Amazing video! I love how you put the deck just about level with the fenders.
Like your approach to this whole project vicos....gives me some ideas to incorporate into my nice little Harbor Freight trailer...they are good engineering excercises aren't they...
I like your cheap insurance on those hitch mount bolts. That looks like a VERY good idea.
Thank you :)
Michael Keaton builds harbor freight trailer
franktib i thought that same thing...lmao
I AM BATMAN
220, 221...whatever it takes
🤣
I had the same thought! LOL
Great video. I used a 3/4" X 4' X 8' sheet of plywood and replaced the bolts that held the plywood with carriage bolts. Suggestion: You might want to raise your tail lights, I bent my licence plate every time I tilted the bed.
You could always weld and bolt things on like the tongue hitch. That’s what I do. I figure the 2 types of connections are over kill but if 1 type fails I still have a backup
People say I sound like Owen Wilson (somewhat/sometimes) took me a minute to figure it out, but I closed my eyes on this video, and I heard batman, and mr. Mom!!! I felt like I was getting a tutorial from Michael Keaton (which is super awesome!!) I can't be the only one to think that!!!! Great video BTW, very informative:))
mad you beat me 2 this
bannanapancake
Your voice reminds me a lot of Michael Keaton (in the upmost respect) great video, thanks for your time with this, I learned a lot!
That's it. Couldn't figure it out. Reminded me of the Duplicity movie.
From florida
I almost want to weld the whole frame together and save on the bolts use, plus free up some space and lighten up slightly.
Purple power is water based and is a good cleaner for bearings. Paid $250 for mine with a flyer ad.
What a great review! Thanks
I just got one and I would say yes definitely repack the bearings with some new grease because mine had basically none on there.
Yeah, the quality control of many Chinese-built products is not very consistent these days. But, on the other hand, it makes for a good project :)
just an update, I've put about 2000 miles on the trailer with no bearing issues. The first trip was about 900 miles. I stopped about every 100 miles and checked the temp of the hub's with an IR thermometer, all is well.
we have over 10,000 miles on ours (search little hhr that could) with only one issue. the greese fitting on one hug was broke when I purchased it. HF sent me a whole new hub no questions asked just to replace the greese fitting. stock greese and bearing looked great about 500 miles ago.
nbookie just wondering how does it tow behind your car? I’m thinking of buying one for my Ford Fiesta
Harbor Freight's 20% off coupons now explicitly exclude trailers....
4 bolts in the hitch. Yeah, only a few pennies, Better safe than Sorry!!! I'd also recommend some longer, stronger, safety chains. At a construction company years ago, we would criss-cross the chains under the tongue so IF the hitch let go the tongue wouldn't hit the ground but it would be cradled in the ''safety net''
Good advice. I always cross the chains. It is a habit I picked up many years ago, and now it is automatic on any trailer I hook up.
Nice job. With those "D" rings, you could have filled in those bolt holes and made plug welds out of them. Just a thought. Also looks like you might have been able to run a little hotter with the welding, at least on the stake pockets. Next time! lol
Thanks for the constructive advice :)
Being a noob to welding and having already warped that one cross member, I was constantly fearful of using too much heat. Maybe some day I can get some first hand instruction from a pro.
Do you think that you could get some metal and make a enclosed trailer?
""These days i'm getting a little bit mellow." ha. Best part of getting old for sure.
I refuse to get older, but I welcome more wisdom. I can't believe what a dumb as I was when I was younger.
@@Vicos Man, that is for sure! Still make plenty of mistakes these days, but now instead of blaming it on "youth", I can blame it on "old age".
NOT that I am aging gracefully, LOL!
Good info, I will use some of these ideas on my current teardrop camper build you just got a new sub
One thing about these trailers is the wheel hubs are only rated for 55mph because they are only steel cast iron ones are higher speed rating.
That heat-warp issue with welding makes it clear NOT to weld if you don't have to - practice elsewhere!
Could the rails have been swapped or flipped so the stake cutouts were next to the inner faces? Would it be better to drill the retaining pin holes before welding on the external stake pockets? How about notching out the lateral 2x4s to clear the lip of the transverse rails and bolt heads?
Very informative. Thank you.
..i currently have a 6x10 haulmark transport cargo trailer.reg says 2990 gvwr. it has 205/75d14 tires on it.,,,,,my problem is my garage door opening is 84 " high .but the trailer measure aprox 86 1/2 inches high. i was able to get it into my garage just barley by flattening the tire. but makes it very unpractical to use having to re-inflate and deflate with every use. have to keep it garaged due to HOA rules i'm thinking of changing the rims and tires from the 14 inch to a 12 inch in the homes of gaing the clearance i need to pull it in and out without messing with the tire inflation...... but can my trailer run safely on a 12 inch tire with a d rating ? also will the 12 inch give me the additional aprox i need to clear the garage height ?.......any thoughts or recommendations?
In virginia it was sales tax on trailer purchase price then there was registration fees. All that was around 120 bucks
I was thinking about picking one of those trailers up...... How does it work for getting that trailer plated.
Did you get the same grade bolts for the hitch that mfg provided.
I want to move a shed like you have in the background just on the property not the road. Do you think it would work as a "Dolly"?
Depends on many things like how big and heavy your shed is and can you get it up on the trailer in the first place. You would have to compare the load capacity of the trailer to the estimated weight of the shed. Can you secure it safely so it doesn't fall off? If you don't have far to go, I've seen them use PVC pipe as rollers (probably 3" or 4"). Just push or pull it over the rollers and move the back piece to the front as you go.
Dave WilliamsHow much did your trailer cost? From Harbor Freight and did you have to Modify it a lot to fit your boat? Dave
Is the placement of the brake lights still legal with the overhang and the box?
Got a question about the tongue of the trailer, can they be replaced with on that is for a A-Frame?
Good video.
Nice trailer upgrades New Sub here
All those 20 percent off coupons always have small print saying excludes the following and trailers is always listed.
So you have a trailer that you can put about 1k load?
Now glop some stuff in the deck holes you drilled so they don't rot out and your deck doesn't just go flying off in the first breeze..
Nice welding job for a first timer although I would have reinforced the steel around the welds, perhaps 8th" steel a few inches in either direction, but I like to do overkill on things of this nature. I'd also repaint the entire frame as they use some real crap paint..
Over all a decent job.. You may end up replacing the pine deck with something more substantial..white oak if you can lay your hands on it..
could one not get a heavier axle from a junkyard as to not worry as much about the weight as well as adding extra springs ? I have never owned a trailer and am in the beginning of research . Do you think that one could build a small camper on that trailer as is with no modifications as to suspension .
You could get a heavier axle and springs from a junkyard, but you're still limited to the trailer's declared GVWR by law. If you wanted to put more weight on the trailer than it is rated for, you'd have to essentially rebuild the entire trailer before registering it with your local DMV, and if you're going to do that you may as well build one from scratch.
As for building it into a small camper, I don't see any reason why not. You may end up having to relocate some of the lights to remain DOT compliant, but as long as you keep it under the rated weight you can build whatever you want off of it.
Does this trailer have a solid axle, or is it like the light duty version with two separate spindles in a C channel ?
Nice job!
is the 48x96 inches the length of the bed or the whole length from end to tongue?
Nice makita impact.
Um belo projeto nota 100 !!
Is there a reson you don't use bearing buddies on your axle?
I'm thinking of getting a Harbor Freight Trailer and using it to haul from Missouri to Alaska. People are warning me that the 12" tires and bearings may not be able to handle the 4,000 mile trip. Do you think the trailer can make such a trip?
Scott Turkington, make sure that your maintenance is kept up and you have no problems
What trailer (for a base of a tiny home on wheels is the most strongest 7' x 12' trailer to pull with a Grand Cherokee Jeep (Hemi engine - pull up to 7,200#s)?
Nice video! Great ideas and warnings. So what was the final result? What was your final weight with those massive decking planks?
The 2x10 bolts only thru the 2x4 which is bolted to the frame. The 2x4 is mounted flush to the edge of the frame member, which gives you a good 2-inches or so of wood you can bolt through w/o hitting the frame member. This also makes is easier if you have to replace one of the 2x10s in the future (U can just drill up from below thru the existing bolt hole in the 2x4). Don't forget to recess your bolt heads in the wood so they are flush with the surface.
Do you need a license plate for the trailer if so how much is it
@@Franksinatra96 You do in Maryland. I don't remember what it cost, but it was not cheap. I believe the cost was based on the size/capacity of the trailer. I never renewed the tags because of the cost and no longer use it off the property.
@@Vicos thank for the information now my other question was did you had to insure it cause I basically want to tow motorcycle as a business with mines so is it insured through your vehicle or you have to pay seperate
@@Franksinatra96 My policy covered it as part of my other vehicle's coverage. However, typically you can not use your private insurance to cover your business use. If you make a claim against your private insurance for an accident when you were conducting business, they will deny the claim and maybe even terminate your policy. Best to call your agent and tell them what you are thinking of doing and let them consult you on what you have to do. Better to be above board. If you ever had a bad accident where your trailer came loose and hurt someone and then the insurance denied it because it was business use, you could be in a world of hurt.
@@Vicos your absolutely right I'm gonna talk with them today thank you again
instead of welding my D rings to the side of the trailer. I'm drilling two holes through my plywood and cross bar fram. and running my flush D ring bolts through that.
+Jeremiah Almos I planned on doing the same thing. Let me know how it turned out? I don't have access to welding equipment, so was just going to go drill through 5/8" plywood and the frame to mount my 4 d-rings.
Hey, I'm doing it D rings tonight. I'll post some videos
Jeremiah Almos Awesome. Thank you sir.
I got about a minute into this video and it hit me...you sound just like Greg Stump. Blizzard of Ahhhs
I would have after getting the trailer together weld all the critical points that way you don't have to have bolts anymore holding that thing together
Hi Vicos, nice vid. I purchased this trailer by mistake but... I'm going to keep it. A couple of questions (1) would the "80 Amp Inverter Arc Welder" being sold by Harbor Freight be able to handle the soldering work on this trailer (installing the sidings)? (2) where did you get your sidings. The kit doesn't come with it and HF doesn't carry it either.
I'm just a newbie at welding, so probably not the one to recommend anything. I used a $140 110V welder from Northern Tool just so I could learn to weld.
By sidings, are you referring to the stake pockets where you insert the 2x4's? If yes, this trailer has built-in pockets, but then you can't get a full 4-feet across---which is why I welded the pockets on the outside. got them from red trailers online. You can also get bolt-on pockets.
I'm not a pro welder but I know a little. The HF flux-core wire feed welder should be fine to weld the thin metal on this trailer. Check out chucky2009 s RUclips for basic newbie welding lessons.
as a novice welder you did ok
The ply wood will warp i can tell you that from personal expirience! Oh well what can you do but learn from your mistakes!
7:02 Every 20% HF coupon I've seen has said they can't be used on trailers.
You must have lucked out and gotten a cashier that pushed it through for you.
I saw the same thing and just discovered that HB has separate specials for the trailers on their website from time to time. I just missed the special for 1720 lb trailer and it was better than 20%. It ended 3/31/20 and the coupon was for 339.99. I am going to try to be a little patient and keep my eye out for the next time.
Great video, but you have to put a dollar sign on your time. Putting together the trailer, then the building the decking, ordering and waiting for parts, paint, and then welding you could have bought one new 10 times better then this. Always put a $ sign on your time kids! Cheers!
do these come in wired with tail lights electrical hookups to the truck or does it have to be wired? thanks!
it comes with everything. you just hook it up.
nbookie thanks brother...
I would have use a piece of 4'x8', 4" thick steel plate. And used 3/4" x 5" grade 8 bolts. Then I could really freak out folks at the harbour freight parking lot.
GREAT JOB BROTHER GOD BLESS
can i use a better axle....maybe one from a junk yard...with bigger wheels...
One word came to mind when watching this video Overkill and one saying comes to mind weight equals enemy
Did you repack the bearings right out of the box? I just built one of these and I've read online that some folks have done that but is it necessary?
Who can really say for sure if it is necessary. My take on it is this: the thing is manufactured in China, probably in sweatshop-like conditions. They don't always use the highest quality materials and the grease could very well be contaminated with dirt. Since the bearings are one of the critical elements of the trailer, why not take a few minutes to clean the bearings and repack them?
I (at first) took my wheels to a tire shop to have them clean out the original Chinese grease, and replace it with a high quality marine grease (I bought the HF boat trailer). Unfortunately, they bent one of the brass&rubber(?) seal, and I quickly found out that I could not find a replacement seal at HF, or anyplace else, due to the odd (metric) size. HF did finally send 2 seals 6 (!!) months later, after many calls to them. To finish the trailer, I finally had to just straighten out the brass part of the seal, and reuse it. So, be careful when removing and replacing the bearings, to not damage the seal! I also put on Bearing Buddies so I could be sure to keep the bearings greased properly. - and if you go that route, be sure you find the size that fits the odd size HF trailer axle.
It's a great idea to do that. These are popular trailer in the motorcycle track riding world. At least in the mid west area. A lot of friends are repacking the bearings just to extend the life. It's doesn't hurt. 😉
I've been using the original grease and bearing for over 10 years now without any issues. I use the trailer regularly nad haul a small ATV with it. I would do the bearing if I used it commercially, but for intermittent use, they should outlast the trailer.
I've found that the quality of lubricants in HF items is often poor. I always change them, and never have any issues later on.
Do you think that Trex composite decking could be used for the floor boards? I've borrowed a friend's trailer a few times and his floor boards are warped, cracked, and cupped like crazy. Just wondering if composite would be strong enough, that's all.
Composite or Synthetic, may be strong enough. I would check online to see how much weight the material can hold, considering the unsupported distance between cross braces. I know there are charts for wood that show how much pressure/weight it can sustain etc. so you should be able to find a scientific answer.
+John Treble Composite works fine. Depending on what you're hauling. I use it on motorcycle trailers with no problems.
John Treble, what I did was get 3/4" outdoor plywood for the decking. I found at Lowe's a deck paint, that goes on thick, that is made for wood decks. Works pretty good
That lumber is way over the top. If that is oak you could've had them cut down to 1" thick and it would be more than enough. That probably takes away at least 100 lbs off of your capacity.
nice job using an impact to drill a hole....
You bet it was! It worked very well, especially considering I didn't have a 3rd drill handy
+Vicos Ya know, they tell you very specifically in the directions for impact wrenches(at least the one I have, a dewalt) not to use it as a drill. Whatever works though
@@Kami8705 that's to prevent shattering the heat-treated drill bits on metal... on wood I think it's ok
You've used up your trailer's weight limit with the wood frame...
+Soulman1282
That's what I was thinking, when you add heavy sideboards. Plus creating pockets around the bolt heads all over the deck will trap water and dirt. The Oak may be able to resist rot so that may not be a real issue.
I got this trailer at Harbor Freight a couple years ago it was on sale and I had a 20% off coupon so it only cost $150.
s8.postimg.org/vdruv0uad/i_Phone_Picture_389.jpg
s9.postimg.org/xcz6jz0bj/i_Phone_Picture_391.jpg
I think there is about 200lbs of wood and fittings in the 2.5 x 4 x 5 box but it really made it into a serviceable little utility trailer.
So
y
Not even close. He has a 1790 lbs weight load, the same as mine. For practically everyone that gets one of these trailers, you'll hardly ever come close to that load capacity
Guy H. So yah! Load it to the max ! And tow it with a Toyota Corolla! Live on the edge! What do you mean I can't weld across the frame? I did it, didn't I? ...... Drive safe.
TruAnRksT d
Once you modify adapt a pre-engineered piece of equipment you void any warranty and accept liability for the structural integrity of the modification have a made. Many times two bolts are not better and four when you have drilled holes in metal which has made a sub-structure weaker than its intended purpose. I am not saying this is the case here but certainly big consideration before undertaking structural modifications.
This is what I purchased: /shop/tools/product_200403263_200403263
$190 now, but it was on sale for $140, plus I think I used one of those $50 off a $250+ coupons (bought a few other things at the same time). I'm a pretty patient shopper. I don't trust Harbor Freight when it comes to electrical items.
Nice upgrade. HF stuff are seriously under sized and under built.
they keep telling me that this trailers are not to reliable for long trips with heavy loads,
is it true?
efrain avena people have thousands of miles on them. But it's not recommended to go over 55 with it.
I know this is a late reply, but I built one in 1994 in Maryland, put a wood box on it, stuffed it full of belongings and drove it to Arizona. Never had an issue. I'm currently building another now for camping with a few modifications but as long as your wheel bearings are packed correctly and you don't overload it you should be good.
Quick question.. how are the trailer on the highway at a speed 70/75 mph??
+Evandre Molina Illegal! Top speed for vehicles towing trailers in Ca used to be 45, It may be different now but you would never want to tow any trailer at 70mph, especially if loaded.
We tow a harbor freight trailer with an atv in it from pa to top of ny most highway ang go maybe 55-65 and don't have a problem.
TruAnRksT trailer speed limit is 55 in California, has been that for the 25 years I've been driving a truck
I used to tow mine here in washington at 70 to 80 mph with no problem.
Evandre Molina any trailer can go as fast as u can drive.
What's the grade on the stock bolts?
They were ungraded on mine.
What is the difference in the hf 1195 lb trailer?
not much (or anything) that I have found. looking at part numbers on the acle, hubs, leaf... they are all the same. at just over 1000 pounds it's bottomed out. I have about 10,000 miles on mine and 1000 pounds is all I would do.
SolarizeYourLife, the cheaper one is basically a 1/2 ton trailer and the more expensive one is a 3/4 T trailer
i need one for acouple of quads
Hello AingonAtelia! I just posted the new video showing the near-finished results. All that remains is to weld on the new heavy duty Jack Stand I picked up from HF for $20. Watch here: v=LLKywADGFRo
I'm sure the frame could hold more, but that axle looks weak
Those stake pockets inside the frame leads me to believe that this is a weak point in the trailer. That concerns me and is a reason I didn't buy one.
The newer ones have stake pockets on the outside that you have to bolt-on. The rails are now solid.
220-221....whatever it takes.