Commenting for the Algorithm, and appreciating the info. Who knew Doctor Strange was would be so multi talented. Even in his side hobbies, like being a RUclips DIY Guru. He dose it with moxy.
FYI to all trailer owners. When attaching the safety chains to your vehicle they should be crossed so that the form an “X” under the hitch. Should the trailer become disconnected from the to vehicle the safety chains will act like a cradle and stop the trailer hitch from digging into the ground.
There are problems doing this. If your hitch bottoms out, it can break your chains. Once, I came out of a gas station exit that was so steep my hitch nut dragged on the pavement, pinched a chain, and the chain broke. Second, the notion crossing chains will keep your hitch off the ground is only true if tension is maintained. Once you stop, your tongue will be on the ground anyway. While this idea sounds good in principle, it is not in practice.
Two things I did for my trailer. I put a pressure treated (and sealed) plywood sheet on the ramp to protect the steel mesh. Also added a truck ladder stand to the front so that I can load longer pieces of lumber and other things on the level and clamp them securely.
Great list of add on items. Depending on what you’re hauling, bolting d-rings to the decking multiplies the number of available tie down points. These are especially useful if you haul equipment.
@@OutdoorCanadians the tie down strength depends on what type of wood the decking boards are made of. If you need 5K capability, I suggest 6/4 (38mm) or 8/4 (50mm) thick red oak at approximately 6” (150mm) wide. I suggest red oak since it’s generally less expensive than white. This might sound like over building, but overbuilding has never let me down. Hope this helps.
@@G.I.JeffsWorkbench no I totally appreciate you taking the time to help me out! Basically I got a Karavan 15’ x 6.8’ dual axle trailer. The deck is made of wood but I’m not sure what they used and that’s why I’ve been hesitant to secure any heavy loads to it. I’ve been bolting to the frame directly but that makes the tie downs a lot less useful. The deck boards are impressively strong 2”x6” and the trailer is rated for 5800 pounds but I’m just not sure of how well wood works with Drings. Thanks again!
Your voice and your presentation abilities are so impressive. At the beginning of your video I kept trying to figure out if you were a famous actor I'd not heard of. Your talents make this mundane subject far more interesting. Great tips as well. Thanks for sharing your talents and abilities with us ordinary guys out here who wish we had half your talent.
Good job on this trailer! Two minor suggestions: (1) For the tongue box, reverse the carriage bolts so they can't be removed from the outside. (2) Always overlap the safety chains (connect right chain to left side of hitch and vice versa) so that they catch and hold up the tongue if it gets separated from the hitch.
@@ManShed Agree that crossing chains is not only recommended, but legally required by many states. The theory is that if they're not crossed, the hitch drops right down between them, nose dives into the asphalt, and turns the trailer into a catapult.
@@jonmccormick6805 then that means the chains were either not connected properly to tow vehicle, too short or they weren't checked pre-flight or periodically through trip.
I have always liked the lift assist kits for the gate. They make it so easy to raise the rear gate. They also help with the lowering so it doesn’t slam to the ground.
When I ordered a custom enclosed trailer I thought I wanted attached jack stands but the salesman advised going to an auto parts store and getting a pair of inexpensive jack stands. His reason was if you forget to retract attached stands before driving away you are likely to damage your trailer. If you forget free standing jacks stands you can go back and pick them up.
I was thinking the same thing. I did the rookie thing he did and I got jack stands, loaded the quad and everything and the Jacks would not drop from the weight. Not sure how to fix that but I'd rather them not attached
Great ideas- one other remove cranking handle in front and weld on odd size bolt. Use your cordless drill/impact to lower and raise. It makes the job 10x faster and adds another layer of security.
Great tips! I have the same toolbox from Harbor Freight on my trailer. I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to fit in the bottom to reduce the noise and protect it from getting rusty from tools bouncing around. One thing I hated about the box is the lock. You can't leave it unlocked and take the key out when you're home. If you remove the key, you can't even shut the lid. So I replaced the lock assembly with a set from a company called Bolt. Their exact replacement lock comes without a key. You put your vehicle key into the lock and it is instantly matched to that key. They also offer the hitch lock and the receiver lock, so I use my truck key for everything. My trailer jack got bent after driving into a gravel lot with a little ditch, so I replaced it with a weld-on jack that I can remove in seconds and throw in the truck.
Here in Arizona, I find that Thompson's water seal just dries up and flakes off after a season in the sun. A better protectant is linseed oil. Once every spring, buy a gallon and roll or brush it on, let it sit for a half hour, then repeat. Keep applying every half our until it quits soaking in (usually 3-4 coats), then wipe the remaining wetness off with an old towel and you deck will last for decades. Thompson's doesn't really soak in, it just coats the surface like paint... Linseed oil will saturate into the wood keeping it from drying and splitting. If you can get at least one coat on the underside, you're ahead of the curve, as you're now protecting it from water splashing up from the road, but the focus is what is exposed to the sun. Great video and very helpful information!
What you call a clearance section is our entire wood sections at lowes. All slightly deformed and not perfect. Lol. Nice video. Thank you for that information.
I like the side pieces...for my utility trailer, I made quickly removable sides that are 2' high (happen to have a 5x8)...this turns my utility trailer into a decent box trailer for mulch/soil/branches etc quickly and back to the open sided utility trailer in about 5 mins...happy to share photos how I did this with anyone...cheers
How do you make quick removable sides for a 5x8 trailer? I have one myself but seems it would need to be bolted onto the side rails and not quickly removed….
@@johnnywishbone1349 yes mine bolts on to the side rails with three carriage bolts on the inside and I spin them on with a deep socket and a cordless impact ...then the front 2' end uses deck screws to screw into the 2x4 top rail of the side pieces...takes less than 10 mins to assemble and less than 5 to disassemble... it's not instant...but pretty quick
Add reflects white/red strips to the sides and back. Add the 3 red light bar to the back, even if not legally required, safety is important. Add side marker lights if yours does not have them, bonus to add one to the fender fronts so YOU can see the lights working without getting out. See examples of more safety functions on essentially any major trailer maker’s models.
Hi few things you might want to consider. 1, Put some rubber washers between your tongue box and trailer frame. This will prevent rubbing a rust on the box 2, You spent a lot of money on your locks. Personally I can defeat your locks with a Home Depot Ramset (.22 caliber). Put the Ramset against the lock pull the trigger and the lock breaks. This works for most pad locks too. 3, Treat your wood with used motor oil and kerosene. Do about a 75% oil 25% kerosene mix. This will preserve you wood a lot longer than anything else and keeps any bugs away. ( old farmer recipe).
Good info, also watch the Lock Picking Lawyer. He regularly picks those Master hitch locks with a simple rack tool in about 5 sec. There are some better hitch locks out there, Master is the worst.
If you look on the picture of the tongue box it shows bolts, washers, nuts and gourmets. I think he meant grommets which would seal water out. Of course if he were hauling a bbq grill he may want to have gourmets.
No motor oil! Anything petroleum esp oil will absolutely rot your wood! You pour motor oil on old tree stumps to quickly rot them away, why would you do that to your trailer!?
@@daverea372 wrong. I have 185 acres and I have a picket fence along 600 feet near the road. I been treating that fence with used motor oil and either diesel or kerosene for over 20 years. I also have a 6’ high by 420 long privately fence that is over 15 years old and show absolutely no wear and the bugs stay away. You need to be more informed. Farmers have been using this wood treatment for YEARS.
@@motoxman541 Why used? Wouldn't there be tiny metal shavings and such in there? Is there any reason (other than cost) why fresh oil wouldn't be better?
One thing you have neglected is a mounted spare tire and wheel. If you ever get a flat tire while hauling you’re kinda stuck until you take off the wheel, get the tire fixed or replaced and hopefully the trailer is still where you left it. And, put a lug wrench in the tongue box!
While I agree with the lug wrench in the box, I never mount my spare trailer tires, for a few reasons. One, when they are mounted, they are in the way when moving around the exterior of the trailer when securing the load. This might seem petty, but it's a pain in the butt, and wherever you mount it, it WILL be in your way. Two, they are constantly in the sun, whether you put a cover on or not... either the tire is rotting or the cover is rotting... covers last one season in Arizona so why spend the money. Three, they are just easier to steal, and having an extra lock is just one more hassle. My solution is to put the spare in the garage and toss it in the bed of the trailer when I am using the trailer further than a few miles from home. In the ultra rare event that I get a flat, I just unhook, jam home for the spare and an impact gun and jack, and the spare is swapped in no time. It makes daily use of the trailer much easier. On longer runs, I can tuck the spare into my load where it is convenient. That's just my take on it, after 35 years and half a dozen various trailers. Also, if you want to protect your tires, the best thing is to actually exercise them. They get dry when left still for too long, regardless of sun damage, so pull that anchor around once a month. And don't use Armorall or some other form of camel cum... this only dries them out faster. Soap and water, proper inflation, and exercise... that's all they need.
Matthew Peterson, Very good reasons you brought up. We don’t have to worry about the sun too much in the woods of North Georgia, but maybe it is something to consider locking up the spare until you use the trailer.
Great job, I added something nice to my 6x12. I've been pulling trailer and boats for many years. I got really tired of signals and lights not working. Wires getting damaged from road debris and such. So I ran 3/4" pvc from the front to back on top sides of the deck and fed the wiring through it and then safety wrapped where it comes out to the lights and the tongue. Problem solved.
That's how my flatbed trailer is as well. My car trailer the manufacturer ran the wiring through the frame of the trailer, nice now but a pain in the ass when you need to repair or replace it.
I am refurbishing a 5x10 and ran 1/2" conduit through tongue in front to the rear and tee'd at rear to the lights. Put wire wrap in front where it goes from trailer to vehicle and will seal the conduit ends with silicone. Used waterproof, epoxy- sealed solder splices on all connections.
I gave up on permanently installed trailer light. I now use portable magnetic stick on lights on my trailers. Take them off when I am done, store away, always work.
@@jerryschneider145 Interesting idea. I think the towing/recovery industry has something similar but they are wireless, rechargeable magnetic lights that stick on the trailer or vehicle, and a receiver in the truck somewhere that sends the light signals back to the lights, no wires to worry about.
Just a suggestion: use the wood sealer on the bottom of the trailer too. A friend of mine used an engine “cherry picker” to hoist the trailer onto its side, propped it up and then painted the underside (I guess he didn’t want to remove the factory wood). But the water sealer makes a big difference over time. I have a box trailer, which also has wheel chocks, of course. Mine actually saved the trailer from being damaged. I park the trailer facing up a slight grade, so the rear chocks are usually all that are necessary. I also park my trailer alongside a shed, which acts as a pretty good wind block on most days. But on one very stormy day we had, the wind actually moved my trailer forward at least 6 feet! In spite of the wheel chocks! If I hadn’t had front wheel chocks, the trailer might’ve been moved forward a lot more, out from behind the shed. That could’ve resulting in it being blown over, or up the length of my 80’ driveway and into the road! Wheel chocks… highly suggested!
Glad you like. I used it on a logging trailer to drag logs I'd cut from downed trees, to get them out of the woods, for firewood, without having a cardiac. Lol. Thanks for your bids. Great stuff !!!!
I didn't even know those rear jack stands existed! (Also keeps kids safe when they climb all over a detached trailer) I also never heard of people using the chains to steal the trailer! Thank you for sharing!
just make sure the tounge of the trailer is locked to hitch ball. myself included, never heard of anyone driving away with the safety chains latched onto the ball ?. if the front of trailer is locked to ball, and ball ( hitch ) is locked to tow vehicle ?, it should not go anywhere.
LOL really appreciate you showing the footage of you on the trailer w/o it connected... Something I never would have thought of but a great visual learning lesson!
I use a "Proven Industries" lock on my hitch to my car trailer, because the lock like yours is very easy to remove without a key. Also on your tongue box put the bolts in the other way around, and use lock nuts on the inside. Even with regular bolts then can be turned to loosen some, but the lock nuts prevent them from being unbolted, which is how yours can be removed right now. I do like the rear feet you put on your trailer.
@@alanshaw4655- True, all locks are really there to deter a thief. Enough time, and the right tools, and they'll get it. The point is to either have them move on to an easier target, or delay them long enough for me to intervene. Should all that fail- hello, insurance company!
I live in Louisiana and the first thing I bought was a spare trailer tire on rim for around 40 dollars online vrs $35 for just the tire locally. This was around 5 years ago but the tactics still apply.
I have a Carry On 5x8 trailer and I plan on using it to carry salvaged power sport vehicles. For this I have added a 3500lb ATV winch to help pull them onboard the battery is set up with a maintenance charging cord as well as my trailer wiring is set up to charge as I drive to make sure I have all the power I need when I get to the job. The winch has 2 control stations, one at the winch and one remote just in case I need to assist the vehicle as I’m pulling. Since my winch takes up the area for the tongue box, I instead am using a box on each side to hold the tie downs and stuffs needed.
When winter comes the days will be short, and some extra lights will be wanted. You already have the tongue box, you can hide a battery in there and then simply Mount the lights wherever it seems they would be most useful after dark. Couple of cargo lights for loading and unloading, and a couple of outward facing lights for working early evening or even well after dark.
Great video ManShed. One suggestion I have. The Trailer Stabilizer Jacks have one easy and sooth built in motion for enabling the jacks to engage with the pavement/concrete or ground. Because of this you have no backup safety on the jacks to keep them from accidentally being engaged and sliding down when you're on the trip. Let's say you hit a very odd series of bumps and potholes and because of a crazy series of movements one of the jacks is allowed to come down. You know what might happen. I suggest a small, light duty chain that loops under the jack when the trailer is in motion being pulled. I'm sure you can come up with a great system. Thanks, I sold my too big of a trailer years ago but need one the size you have now. Hang in there.
I like stabilizer jacks but not the reduced clearance in the back. I just keep jacks stands in the trailer box. I also added skid wheels to stop dragging the butt of my trailer.
Just a suggestion, rather than the type of stabilizers you have at the rear of the trailer, try using tongue jacks that can be swiveled up out of the way, this way when you lower them you can also use them as jacks to raise the side of the trailer in the event you get a flat tire, they wont just go to the ground and stop where as you also do that with the crank style tongue style jacks if you so choose but they have the extra use for using them as a jack for flat tires. Just thought I would throw that out there. Enjoy your trailer my friend.
Those type of jacks he has on there are capable of raising. You would use a half inch rod and push it through the holes above the locking lever and push down. These are very common with tent trailers and they allow you to level the trailer on uneven ground.
Actually if you put the trailer tongue jack all the way down then put the stabilizer jacks in the back all the way down, then crank the tongue jack back up itll lift the tires off the ground to change a flat
Cool 😎, thanks for, your video, can't wait to show this to my dad!. He's always helping me with my property,I want to be able to help him with his trailer. First vid I've seen of yours, looking forward to seeing more of your video s ,because I have multiple projects.
I'm considering buying my first trailer (once I decide which hitch to install) and was happy to see the algorithm suggest this. This is great for a n00b like me! Thanks for subscribed! Also, I was just looking at the tongue boxes at HF last week. Glad you're happy with them. I will likely buy one there as well. Lastly, I love the lock points. I had not thought of all of that yet!
Great ideas. The one thing I did when I got my trailers ( I have 3) was I bought a 3/8" steel Letter/Number stamp set and put my Vin# and my last name on the frame in a couple of places. The trailers had a sticker on them with that info but it can be just pulled off.
My trailer is a bit larger than what you are talking about, however, got a tongue box and had it modified to conceal the spare wheel. I had the bottom of the box opened up and a curved bottom welded in. The tire and rim neatly hidden with the lid closed and it also carries the electric safety brake battery and there was enough room for some tools and wheel chocks.
another good idea would be some type of non slip paint or something for the ramp when itts wet it so slippery ask me how i know ? im nursing a broken arm and a concussion from a slip and fall off the ramp
I bought a receiver (square tube) with wings to attach bolts. I put this on the front of my trailer, where your tool chest is. I bolted it down with “U” bolts. I then have a receiver for my bike rack, so I can carry things in my trailer and also have my bikes with me without taking space in my trailer or risking my bikes getting scratched up.
Wow! This was a great video. So many useful additions. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Not quite ready to get my trailer yet. However, once I do, I will be sure to use your links.
Floor and porch paint, 90 degree pivot jack stand mount, VIN number etched all over the place in hidden places, GPS tracker / airtag, e-track mounts, License plate reinforced steel, license plate wire cable retainer, tire covers for UV protection, tire rim locking lugs, spare lugs, lockable tire, spare tire, lug tool, tire puncture patch kit, air inflator, spare bulbs, fold flat ramp (for aerodynamics in transit), tire balance, tpms sensors, spare bearing kit, tools, LED bed lighting or wrap around LED rope lighting with switch for night work, extra reflectors, motion sensor alarm with remote notifications.
I just got a new 16 foot dual axle trailer yesterday and got excited when you showed the rear stands. Lol. I did research on the tongue lock and watched guy pick the one you have in 5 seconds so I went with one that uses a combination lock. Great video!
Very nice trailer and good ideas I didn't see a spare tire on it nowhere that's the only thing I think it was missing was the spare tire.........nice trailer nice work...
Nice video. One other point of safety is to always cross your safety chains. At one point in your video, they are not crossed. This is important, not only to prevent the trailer from breaking away from the vehicle, but also to prevent too much sway if the trailer does break away. Keep the videos coming.
It’s good to have your front Jack stand removable, & be able to attach it on the side rear. Then if you have a flat tire while going down the road, you can use that jack stand to jack the rear up to change the tire. The front will be attached to your car, so your stable on the front of the trailer.
I was thinking about that. Now in his case, Im wondering if you could just drop down those stabilizers he has on the rear and jack up the front to lift the wheels off the ground.
As a professional commercial helicopter pilot, and truck driver, always do a walk around check, before towing the trailer away, to spot any unsafe conditions, double check hitch connection and any ramp security with a few tugs. Then drive a short distance, and check again!!!
Nice video, I like your ideas. If you are a builder, scrap 2x4, 2x6, and 4x4 make good chock blocks and jack stabilizers, and are free. Scrap yards cars all have a jack that you can get for almost free. I've never paid over $5 for jack at savage yard, and some may never have been used.
Have you found that the jacks/stabilizers will scrap the ground if pulling the trailer up/down hills or slopes? Unless I use a hitch that can be adjusted, the trailer will already be pitched up a bit and seems like those will catch the ground.
Just an FYI your lock is only a deterrent. People who steal trailers don’t even bother with the lock. They have plenty of fixes for that regardless of your lock
@KDlGG but not all locks are as easy to get open as the master locks, I understand no lock is perfect with enough time but if all you need is to hit it and it's open then thats like it not being locked. And I'm sure anyone who steals trailers knows that these are easy to open and they plan on it and look for these.
@ManShed, on the topic of Trailer Locks. (Maybe this doesn’t apply to your car but many others, especially trucks.) There’s a company called Bolt Locks that makes a wide range of locks (receiver pin, tongue latch pin, cables, pad locks, and lock cylinders) that use your vehicle’s key. Very handy and tough. I no longer have to worry about searching for my “trailer keys.”
Just an another suggestion for pickup truck owners. Change the jack post to a side mounted one. It will save you from damaging the tailgate and give access to the truck bed with the trailer attached. I don’t know why trailer manufacturers like to align the post with the area needed to lower a tailgate. 😎
As a truck driver, I wouldn't invest in a single axle trailer. Seen to many blowouts/ unstable rollovers. 2nd axle increases load capacity and better opprotunity not to pizza cut the asphalt frantically trying to swerve to the shoulder and/or guardrail. Jacks were a great add. Suggest chock hanger outside the tool box saving more room for other items.
thanks for the suggestions. I agree that it's better to go 2 axle but I did put radial tires on this single axle because I don't trust regular trailer tires.
The big problem with all trailers is people either overloading the trailer or their tow vehicle, which are two different problems. Getting a trailer moving is easy, stopping it in a reasonable distance may not be. I see big, overloaded trailers being pulled by a small tow vehicle with an inadequate hitch regularly. Where I live a double axle generally puts the trailer into a weight class that requires trailer brakes and regular ( annual ?) inspections and possibly an in vehicle brake controller. I've also found that multi axle trailers practically require a tow vehicle to move them, especially for turning. What is "best"? I don't know, but I get the feeling there's a lot of folks with trailers who would get a lot of benefit by learning and following the basics.
So I love all of these, but another recommendation would be trailer ramps, just for whenever you need to put a mower or something on and the ramp is just a bit too steep, so you bottom out. The extra rampage allows for clearance 👌
I too added a trailer tongue tool box. However, I did NOT drill through the main support beams to attach any kind of fastener. I did not want to compromise the beam mechanical strength. Instead I used FLAT bottom U-Bolts that clamped the tool box to the beam without having to make any holes in the beams. My Wells Cargo Trailer owner's manual specifically states that making holes in the beams will invalidate the warranty. I am a building inspector and I know that you can make sideways holes in beams without compromising their mechanical strength, but the size and location of the holes is specified in the building code.
On my little trailer I cut a couple of holes in the mesh on the trailer floor so I could fold the ramp flat onto the floor (the latch plates protrude.) This allows a fork lift to easily place large objects (gun safe) into the trailer. The ramp on my trailer is not removable so this was really helpful.
Great job. Maybe put the carriage bolts on the tool box upside down, so the bolts are inside the toolbox, so no one can steal the toolbox. Other than that you did a awesome job.
Some things I use a lot are surface mount D-rings. By keeping them 2-3 inches from the sideboards on the floor I still have enough room to lay plywood down without marring it. Usually all I haul is a rider mower. When I'm done the rings fold down.
I turned a Boring Shed into an EPIC Minecraft Gaming Cave: ruclips.net/video/YQpRU_LcrS0/видео.html
Commenting for the Algorithm, and appreciating the info. Who knew Doctor Strange was would be so multi talented. Even in his side hobbies, like being a RUclips DIY Guru. He dose it with moxy.
What jack do you have for the trailer?
FYI to all trailer owners. When attaching the safety chains to your vehicle they should be crossed so that the form an “X” under the hitch. Should the trailer become disconnected from the to vehicle the safety chains will act like a cradle and stop the trailer hitch from digging into the ground.
There are problems doing this. If your hitch bottoms out, it can break your chains. Once, I came out of a gas station exit that was so steep my hitch nut dragged on the pavement, pinched a chain, and the chain broke.
Second, the notion crossing chains will keep your hitch off the ground is only true if tension is maintained. Once you stop, your tongue will be on the ground anyway.
While this idea sounds good in principle, it is not in practice.
@@Nic7320 I was thinking that… what happens when there is no tension
I wrap my chains twice around each other. It shortens the length and lifts the chains 3-4"
These are excellent words of advice probably some of the most important new trailer owners will ever hear i absolutely agree
@@Nic7320 You're wrong on everything. You should not have bought junk steel chinese chains. Good chains would never break like you described.
What did I like the best?
The rear jacks.... genius and worth it !
Two things I did for my trailer. I put a pressure treated (and sealed) plywood sheet on the ramp to protect the steel mesh. Also added a truck ladder stand to the front so that I can load longer pieces of lumber and other things on the level and clamp them securely.
Great list of add on items. Depending on what you’re hauling, bolting d-rings to the decking multiplies the number of available tie down points. These are especially useful if you haul equipment.
Is it secure enough to bolt 5k rated d rings to wood?
@@OutdoorCanadians the tie down strength depends on what type of wood the decking boards are made of. If you need 5K capability, I suggest 6/4 (38mm) or 8/4 (50mm) thick red oak at approximately 6” (150mm) wide. I suggest red oak since it’s generally less expensive than white. This might sound like over building, but overbuilding has never let me down. Hope this helps.
@@G.I.JeffsWorkbench no I totally appreciate you taking the time to help me out! Basically I got a Karavan 15’ x 6.8’ dual axle trailer. The deck is made of wood but I’m not sure what they used and that’s why I’ve been hesitant to secure any heavy loads to it. I’ve been bolting to the frame directly but that makes the tie downs a lot less useful. The deck boards are impressively strong 2”x6” and the trailer is rated for 5800 pounds but I’m just not sure of how well wood works with Drings.
Thanks again!
Your voice and your presentation abilities are so impressive. At the beginning of your video I kept trying to figure out if you were a famous actor I'd not heard of. Your talents make this mundane subject far more interesting. Great tips as well. Thanks for sharing your talents and abilities with us ordinary guys out here who wish we had half your talent.
thank you! I often get people telling me I look like Matthew Lillard. 😎
I thought it was just me who thought he was an actor 😮
@@timahluvmusic 🙂
Good job on this trailer! Two minor suggestions: (1) For the tongue box, reverse the carriage bolts so they can't be removed from the outside. (2) Always overlap the safety chains (connect right chain to left side of hitch and vice versa) so that they catch and hold up the tongue if it gets separated from the hitch.
Thanks for watching and the suggestions. : ) What would you say to the videos on RUclips where they say, "Never Cross Your Chains"?
Some states it is ILLEGAL to NOT cross your chains. I have a customer that got a $750 ticket for not crossing chains on an equipment trailer.
@@ManShed Agree that crossing chains is not only recommended, but legally required by many states. The theory is that if they're not crossed, the hitch drops right down between them, nose dives into the asphalt, and turns the trailer into a catapult.
@@ManShed When turning a sharp corner, one gets tight and the other very loose if they aren't perfectly connected.
@@jonmccormick6805 then that means the chains were either not connected properly to tow vehicle, too short or they weren't checked pre-flight or periodically through trip.
I have always liked the lift assist kits for the gate. They make it so easy to raise the rear gate. They also help with the lowering so it doesn’t slam to the ground.
I added a set to my 16' trailer and now my Bride can lift or lower the tailgate with easy and it is a 5 foot long ramp.
When I ordered a custom enclosed trailer I thought I wanted attached jack stands but the salesman advised going to an auto parts store and getting a pair of inexpensive jack stands. His reason was if you forget to retract attached stands before driving away you are likely to damage your trailer. If you forget free standing jacks stands you can go back and pick them up.
I was thinking the same thing. I did the rookie thing he did and I got jack stands, loaded the quad and everything and the Jacks would not drop from the weight. Not sure how to fix that but I'd rather them not attached
Great ideas- one other remove cranking handle in front and weld on odd size bolt. Use your cordless drill/impact to lower and raise. It makes the job 10x faster and adds another layer of security.
Great tips!
I have the same toolbox from Harbor Freight on my trailer. I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to fit in the bottom to reduce the noise and protect it from getting rusty from tools bouncing around. One thing I hated about the box is the lock. You can't leave it unlocked and take the key out when you're home. If you remove the key, you can't even shut the lid. So I replaced the lock assembly with a set from a company called Bolt. Their exact replacement lock comes without a key. You put your vehicle key into the lock and it is instantly matched to that key.
They also offer the hitch lock and the receiver lock, so I use my truck key for everything.
My trailer jack got bent after driving into a gravel lot with a little ditch, so I replaced it with a weld-on jack that I can remove in seconds and throw in the truck.
Here in Arizona, I find that Thompson's water seal just dries up and flakes off after a season in the sun. A better protectant is linseed oil. Once every spring, buy a gallon and roll or brush it on, let it sit for a half hour, then repeat. Keep applying every half our until it quits soaking in (usually 3-4 coats), then wipe the remaining wetness off with an old towel and you deck will last for decades. Thompson's doesn't really soak in, it just coats the surface like paint... Linseed oil will saturate into the wood keeping it from drying and splitting. If you can get at least one coat on the underside, you're ahead of the curve, as you're now protecting it from water splashing up from the road, but the focus is what is exposed to the sun. Great video and very helpful information!
Used motor oil and kerosene or diesel for the win. The most used wood floor protector anywhere.
What you call a clearance section is our entire wood sections at lowes. All slightly deformed and not perfect. Lol. Nice video. Thank you for that information.
I like the side pieces...for my utility trailer, I made quickly removable sides that are 2' high (happen to have a 5x8)...this turns my utility trailer into a decent box trailer for mulch/soil/branches etc quickly and back to the open sided utility trailer in about 5 mins...happy to share photos how I did this with anyone...cheers
How do you make quick removable sides for a 5x8 trailer? I have one myself but seems it would need to be bolted onto the side rails and not quickly removed….
@@johnnywishbone1349 yes mine bolts on to the side rails with three carriage bolts on the inside and I spin them on with a deep socket and a cordless impact ...then the front 2' end uses deck screws to screw into the 2x4 top rail of the side pieces...takes less than 10 mins to assemble and less than 5 to disassemble... it's not instant...but pretty quick
@@kirkthebeerslinger What's the 2 x 4 top rail for? Does it lay vertical or horizontal?
Add reflects white/red strips to the sides and back.
Add the 3 red light bar to the back, even if not legally required, safety is important.
Add side marker lights if yours does not have them, bonus to add one to the fender fronts so YOU can see the lights working without getting out. See examples of more safety functions on essentially any major trailer maker’s models.
Hi few things you might want to consider.
1, Put some rubber washers between your tongue box and trailer frame. This will prevent rubbing a rust on the box
2, You spent a lot of money on your locks. Personally I can defeat your locks with a Home Depot Ramset (.22 caliber). Put the Ramset against the lock pull the trigger and the lock breaks. This works for most pad locks too.
3, Treat your wood with used motor oil and kerosene. Do about a 75% oil 25% kerosene mix. This will preserve you wood a lot longer than anything else and keeps any bugs away. ( old farmer recipe).
Good info, also watch the Lock Picking Lawyer. He regularly picks those Master hitch locks with a simple rack tool in about 5 sec. There are some better hitch locks out there, Master is the worst.
If you look on the picture of the tongue box it shows bolts, washers, nuts and gourmets. I think he meant grommets which would seal water out. Of course if he were hauling a bbq grill he may want to have gourmets.
No motor oil! Anything petroleum esp oil will absolutely rot your wood! You pour motor oil on old tree stumps to quickly rot them away, why would you do that to your trailer!?
@@daverea372 wrong. I have 185 acres and I have a picket fence along 600 feet near the road. I been treating that fence with used motor oil and either diesel or kerosene for over 20 years. I also have a 6’ high by 420 long privately fence that is over 15 years old and show absolutely no wear and the bugs stay away. You need to be more informed. Farmers have been using this wood treatment for YEARS.
@@motoxman541 Why used? Wouldn't there be tiny metal shavings and such in there? Is there any reason (other than cost) why fresh oil wouldn't be better?
One thing you have neglected is a mounted spare tire and wheel. If you ever get a flat tire while hauling you’re kinda stuck until you take off the wheel, get the tire fixed or replaced and hopefully the trailer is still where you left it. And, put a lug wrench in the tongue box!
Agreed, this should be everyone's first modification.
While I agree with the lug wrench in the box, I never mount my spare trailer tires, for a few reasons. One, when they are mounted, they are in the way when moving around the exterior of the trailer when securing the load. This might seem petty, but it's a pain in the butt, and wherever you mount it, it WILL be in your way. Two, they are constantly in the sun, whether you put a cover on or not... either the tire is rotting or the cover is rotting... covers last one season in Arizona so why spend the money. Three, they are just easier to steal, and having an extra lock is just one more hassle. My solution is to put the spare in the garage and toss it in the bed of the trailer when I am using the trailer further than a few miles from home. In the ultra rare event that I get a flat, I just unhook, jam home for the spare and an impact gun and jack, and the spare is swapped in no time. It makes daily use of the trailer much easier. On longer runs, I can tuck the spare into my load where it is convenient. That's just my take on it, after 35 years and half a dozen various trailers. Also, if you want to protect your tires, the best thing is to actually exercise them. They get dry when left still for too long, regardless of sun damage, so pull that anchor around once a month. And don't use Armorall or some other form of camel cum... this only dries them out faster. Soap and water, proper inflation, and exercise... that's all they need.
Matthew Peterson,
Very good reasons you brought up. We don’t have to worry about the sun too much in the woods of North Georgia, but maybe it is something to consider locking up the spare until you use the trailer.
I'm having a hard time replacing my spare tire.
Thank you for posting this video. Informed decision on what items to purchase along with a trailer.
Thank you for being yourself and sharing this awesomeness.
Love the storage box. Carpet it.
Great job, I added something nice to my 6x12. I've been pulling trailer and boats for many years. I got really tired of signals and lights not working. Wires getting damaged from road debris and such. So I ran 3/4" pvc from the front to back on top sides of the deck and fed the wiring through it and then safety wrapped where it comes out to the lights and the tongue. Problem solved.
Thanks for sharing!
That's how my flatbed trailer is as well. My car trailer the manufacturer ran the wiring through the frame of the trailer, nice now but a pain in the ass when you need to repair or replace it.
I am refurbishing a 5x10 and ran 1/2" conduit through tongue in front to the rear and tee'd at rear to the lights. Put wire wrap in front where it goes from trailer to vehicle and will seal the conduit ends with silicone. Used waterproof, epoxy- sealed solder splices on all connections.
I gave up on permanently installed trailer light. I now use portable magnetic stick on lights on my trailers. Take them off when I am done, store away, always work.
@@jerryschneider145 Interesting idea. I think the towing/recovery industry has something similar but they are wireless, rechargeable magnetic lights that stick on the trailer or vehicle, and a receiver in the truck somewhere that sends the light signals back to the lights, no wires to worry about.
Building on my trailer now and the stabilizers are a must have! ordering now!
Yes!
Danke, dass du diese wertvollen Informationen teilst.
Just a suggestion: use the wood sealer on the bottom of the trailer too. A friend of mine used an engine “cherry picker” to hoist the trailer onto its side, propped it up and then painted the underside (I guess he didn’t want to remove the factory wood). But the water sealer makes a big difference over time.
I have a box trailer, which also has wheel chocks, of course. Mine actually saved the trailer from being damaged. I park the trailer facing up a slight grade, so the rear chocks are usually all that are necessary. I also park my trailer alongside a shed, which acts as a pretty good wind block on most days. But on one very stormy day we had, the wind actually moved my trailer forward at least 6 feet! In spite of the wheel chocks! If I hadn’t had front wheel chocks, the trailer might’ve been moved forward a lot more, out from behind the shed. That could’ve resulting in it being blown over, or up the length of my 80’ driveway and into the road! Wheel chocks… highly suggested!
Cut hole in front side board to attach a good come-along manual winch to be able to hook and pull/drag an object on board the trailer.
Hadn't thought of that one. On my list now. :)
Glad you like. I used it on a logging trailer to drag logs I'd cut from downed trees, to get them out of the woods, for firewood, without having a cardiac. Lol. Thanks for your bids. Great stuff !!!!
Sorry...not Bids...Vids......
Just bought a trailer for my Roof top tent and kayak. New trailer owner so this was very helpful video.
Glad to hear and enjoy your new trailer!
I didn't even know those rear jack stands existed! (Also keeps kids safe when they climb all over a detached trailer) I also never heard of people using the chains to steal the trailer! Thank you for sharing!
just make sure the tounge of the trailer is locked to hitch ball. myself included, never heard of anyone driving away with the safety chains latched onto the ball ?. if the front of trailer is locked to ball, and ball ( hitch ) is locked to tow vehicle ?, it should not go anywhere.
Grazie per aver condiviso queste preziose informazioni.
All upgrades two thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻
Great tips for modifications on many types of trailers. Thank You.
You have a captivating way of presenting information.
LOL really appreciate you showing the footage of you on the trailer w/o it connected... Something I never would have thought of but a great visual learning lesson!
I use a "Proven Industries" lock on my hitch to my car trailer, because the lock like yours is very easy to remove without a key. Also on your tongue box put the bolts in the other way around, and use lock nuts on the inside. Even with regular bolts then can be turned to loosen some, but the lock nuts prevent them from being unbolted, which is how yours can be removed right now.
I do like the rear feet you put on your trailer.
Yea, I have locking nuts and I’ve reversed them now. Thanks for the suggestions.
@@ManShed :)
I have a Ft. Knox that is very similar. Stealing the trailer would be VERY hard with these locks!
@@majerstud if some thief wants your trailer bad enough ?, there is no lock that will stop them !. locks only stop honest people.
@@alanshaw4655- True, all locks are really there to deter a thief. Enough time, and the right tools, and they'll get it. The point is to either have them move on to an easier target, or delay them long enough for me to intervene. Should all that fail- hello, insurance company!
Yeah,a winch would be nice for those heavier items . Love to see ya add one.👍
They are nice but usually you need to choose between a toolbox, a winch, a custom setup to have the winch below the box or to lose deck space.
I live in Louisiana and the first thing I bought was a spare trailer tire on rim for around 40 dollars online vrs $35 for just the tire locally. This was around 5 years ago but the tactics still apply.
I have a Carry On 5x8 trailer and I plan on using it to carry salvaged power sport vehicles. For this I have added a 3500lb ATV winch to help pull them onboard the battery is set up with a maintenance charging cord as well as my trailer wiring is set up to charge as I drive to make sure I have all the power I need when I get to the job. The winch has 2 control stations, one at the winch and one remote just in case I need to assist the vehicle as I’m pulling. Since my winch takes up the area for the tongue box, I instead am using a box on each side to hold the tie downs and stuffs needed.
When winter comes the days will be short, and some extra lights will be wanted. You already have the tongue box, you can hide a battery in there and then simply Mount the lights wherever it seems they would be most useful after dark. Couple of cargo lights for loading and unloading, and a couple of outward facing lights for working early evening or even well after dark.
great idea!
Trailer taillights multi color cool as all get out!
This video brings so much positive value.
I'm about to modify a HF trailer to haul dirt bike. You gave me some great ideas. Great video. Thanks for posting.
Questo video mi ha davvero toccato il cuore.
Great video ManShed. One suggestion I have. The Trailer Stabilizer Jacks have one easy and sooth built in motion for enabling the jacks to engage with the pavement/concrete or ground. Because of this you have no backup safety on the jacks to keep them from accidentally being engaged and sliding down when you're on the trip. Let's say you hit a very odd series of bumps and potholes and because of a crazy series of movements one of the jacks is allowed to come down. You know what might happen. I suggest a small, light duty chain that loops under the jack when the trailer is in motion being pulled. I'm sure you can come up with a great system. Thanks, I sold my too big of a trailer years ago but need one the size you have now. Hang in there.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Good idea!
I like stabilizer jacks but not the reduced clearance in the back. I just keep jacks stands in the trailer box. I also added skid wheels to stop dragging the butt of my trailer.
Just a suggestion, rather than the type of stabilizers you have at the rear of the trailer, try using tongue jacks that can be swiveled up out of the way, this way when you lower them you can also use them as jacks to raise the side of the trailer in the event you get a flat tire, they wont just go to the ground and stop where as you also do that with the crank style tongue style jacks if you so choose but they have the extra use for using them as a jack for flat tires. Just thought I would throw that out there. Enjoy your trailer my friend.
Those type of jacks he has on there are capable of raising. You would use a half inch rod and push it through the holes above the locking lever and push down. These are very common with tent trailers and they allow you to level the trailer on uneven ground.
Actually if you put the trailer tongue jack all the way down then put the stabilizer jacks in the back all the way down, then crank the tongue jack back up itll lift the tires off the ground to change a flat
@@landon803 Great Idea!
@@landon803 Break the lug nuts loose first and then raise it.
Just purchased my first trailer. This is very helpful. I also added a spare tire mount.
Looks good. I am starting the "restoration process" of a 20 year old 6x12 flat trailer.
Cool 😎, thanks for, your video, can't wait to show this to my dad!. He's always helping me with my property,I want to be able to help him with his trailer. First vid I've seen of yours, looking forward to seeing more of your video s ,because I have multiple projects.
Those sideboards with the cutouts were a great idea.
I'm considering buying my first trailer (once I decide which hitch to install) and was happy to see the algorithm suggest this. This is great for a n00b like me! Thanks for subscribed!
Also, I was just looking at the tongue boxes at HF last week. Glad you're happy with them. I will likely buy one there as well. Lastly, I love the lock points. I had not thought of all of that yet!
Great ideas. The one thing I did when I got my trailers ( I have 3) was I bought a 3/8" steel Letter/Number stamp set and put my Vin# and my last name on the frame in a couple of places. The trailers had a sticker on them with that info but it can be just pulled off.
My trailer is a bit larger than what you are talking about, however, got a tongue box and had it modified to conceal the spare wheel. I had the bottom of the box opened up and a curved bottom welded in. The tire and rim neatly hidden with the lid closed and it also carries the electric safety brake battery and there was enough room for some tools and wheel chocks.
Gorilla Lift Assist for heavy ramp gates. Great video, side boards are nice.
Recently bought a trailer and learned a ton of new things. Thanks for making this video
another good idea would be some type of non slip paint or something for the ramp when itts wet it so slippery ask me how i know ? im nursing a broken arm and a concussion from a slip and fall off the ramp
I like the rear stabilization on tl.
All so on the locking system with just one key ‼️👍🏻👍🏻
I bought a receiver (square tube) with wings to attach bolts. I put this on the front of my trailer, where your tool chest is. I bolted it down with “U” bolts. I then have a receiver for my bike rack, so I can carry things in my trailer and also have my bikes with me without taking space in my trailer or risking my bikes getting scratched up.
That’s a great idea!
Wow! This was a great video. So many useful additions. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Not quite ready to get my trailer yet. However, once I do, I will be sure to use your links.
Floor and porch paint, 90 degree pivot jack stand mount, VIN number etched all over the place in hidden places, GPS tracker / airtag, e-track mounts, License plate reinforced steel, license plate wire cable retainer, tire covers for UV protection, tire rim locking lugs, spare lugs, lockable tire, spare tire, lug tool, tire puncture patch kit, air inflator, spare bulbs, fold flat ramp (for aerodynamics in transit), tire balance, tpms sensors, spare bearing kit, tools, LED bed lighting or wrap around LED rope lighting with switch for night work, extra reflectors, motion sensor alarm with remote notifications.
😱
This video is incredibly inspiring.
I just got a new 16 foot dual axle trailer yesterday and got excited when you showed the rear stands. Lol. I did research on the tongue lock and watched guy pick the one you have in 5 seconds so I went with one that uses a combination lock. Great video!
I like those rear stabilizer jacks!!!!
Wow!! Thanks a million! I've had a similar trailer for years and can't believe I didnt have some of these items! Great ideas!!👍
You are so welcome!
Very nice trailer and good ideas I didn't see a spare tire on it nowhere that's the only thing I think it was missing was the spare tire.........nice trailer nice work...
Nice video. One other point of safety is to always cross your safety chains. At one point in your video, they are not crossed. This is important, not only to prevent the trailer from breaking away from the vehicle, but also to prevent too much sway if the trailer does break away. Keep the videos coming.
It’s good to have your front Jack stand removable, & be able to attach it on the side rear. Then if you have a flat tire while going down the road, you can use that jack stand to jack the rear up to change the tire. The front will be attached to your car, so your stable on the front of the trailer.
I was thinking about that. Now in his case, Im wondering if you could just drop down those stabilizers he has on the rear and jack up the front to lift the wheels off the ground.
I like the jacks and the wood around it, nice trailer, good work
As a professional commercial helicopter pilot, and truck driver, always do a walk around check, before towing the trailer away, to spot any unsafe conditions, double check hitch connection and any ramp security with a few tugs.
Then drive a short distance, and check again!!!
Love all of them.
Nice video, I like your ideas. If you are a builder, scrap 2x4, 2x6, and 4x4 make good chock blocks and jack stabilizers, and are free. Scrap yards cars all have a jack that you can get for almost free. I've never paid over $5 for jack at savage yard, and some may never have been used.
Have you found that the jacks/stabilizers will scrap the ground if pulling the trailer up/down hills or slopes? Unless I use a hitch that can be adjusted, the trailer will already be pitched up a bit and seems like those will catch the ground.
The music in the video is fantastic.
Lock picking lawyer really dislikes that master set because a quick jiggle and they're all open.... faster than with a key
Just an FYI your lock is only a deterrent. People who steal trailers don’t even bother with the lock. They have plenty of fixes for that regardless of your lock
Oh yes, he calls it "rollaway theft."
@KDlGG but not all locks are as easy to get open as the master locks, I understand no lock is perfect with enough time but if all you need is to hit it and it's open then thats like it not being locked. And I'm sure anyone who steals trailers knows that these are easy to open and they plan on it and look for these.
You probably don’t do much landscaping but I built some to buy to put long tools( shovels, rakes, etc using pvc pipes.
Just ordered me a set of the rear trailer jacks! GREAT Idea, THANKS!!!
This video changed my perspective on this topic.
Great video. Simple question. You painted the side rails and bottom then put the water seal on? Thank you!
yes I did.
The stabilizer stands where awesome. I’ve always used car jack stand, but the bars attach and I like that!
@ManShed, on the topic of Trailer Locks. (Maybe this doesn’t apply to your car but many others, especially trucks.) There’s a company called Bolt Locks that makes a wide range of locks (receiver pin, tongue latch pin, cables, pad locks, and lock cylinders) that use your vehicle’s key. Very handy and tough. I no longer have to worry about searching for my “trailer keys.”
Yea, they wanted to send me their products after seeing my video but they don't make it for Audi's 🤦🏻♂️ Love the idea though.
@@ManShed That’s awesome they reached out! I found their customer service to be excellent.
Just an another suggestion for pickup truck owners.
Change the jack post to a side mounted one.
It will save you from damaging the tailgate and give access to the truck bed with the trailer attached.
I don’t know why trailer manufacturers like to align the post with the area needed to lower a tailgate. 😎
As a truck driver, I wouldn't invest in a single axle trailer. Seen to many blowouts/ unstable rollovers. 2nd axle increases load capacity and better opprotunity not to pizza cut the asphalt frantically trying to swerve to the shoulder and/or guardrail.
Jacks were a great add.
Suggest chock hanger outside the tool box saving more room for other items.
thanks for the suggestions. I agree that it's better to go 2 axle but I did put radial tires on this single axle because I don't trust regular trailer tires.
Thanks for that mention. I don't need any grief when hauling.
The big problem with all trailers is people either overloading the trailer or their tow vehicle, which are two different problems. Getting a trailer moving is easy, stopping it in a reasonable distance may not be. I see big, overloaded trailers being pulled by a small tow vehicle with an inadequate hitch regularly.
Where I live a double axle generally puts the trailer into a weight class that requires trailer brakes and regular ( annual ?) inspections and possibly an in vehicle brake controller. I've also found that multi axle trailers practically require a tow vehicle to move them, especially for turning.
What is "best"? I don't know, but I get the feeling there's a lot of folks with trailers who would get a lot of benefit by learning and following the basics.
Dude your in a different class than this guy…. I mean he’s pulling it with his Audi electric car…. 🤷🏿♂️.
@@epicpaper3994 😂
Thank you for the advise.
I put 4 folding tie downs , down the center of my 14 ft trailer they help when I have to tie something long and narrow
Thomson's water seal is a must for any outdoor wood project
Thanks for the information 👍
Look into self-retracting straps. Total game changer! Also look at “Gorilla Lift” from Northern tool
looks great
You have a unique style of video-making.
I've watched this video multiple times already.
So I love all of these, but another recommendation would be trailer ramps, just for whenever you need to put a mower or something on and the ramp is just a bit too steep, so you bottom out. The extra rampage allows for clearance 👌
I too added a trailer tongue tool box. However, I did NOT drill through the main support beams to attach any kind of fastener. I did not want to compromise the beam mechanical strength. Instead I used FLAT bottom U-Bolts that clamped the tool box to the beam without having to make any holes in the beams. My Wells Cargo Trailer owner's manual specifically states that making holes in the beams will invalidate the warranty. I am a building inspector and I know that you can make sideways holes in beams without compromising their mechanical strength, but the size and location of the holes is specified in the building code.
Thanks for sharing, good information and the part with you in the trailer was a great bonus 😂.
LOLOL
I learned so much from this video.
On my little trailer I cut a couple of holes in the mesh on the trailer floor so I could fold the ramp flat onto the floor (the latch plates protrude.) This allows a fork lift to easily place large objects (gun safe) into the trailer. The ramp on my trailer is not removable so this was really helpful.
how about running your trailer wire through some kind of tubing for protection? trailer kept outside? if so how about stainless hardware?
Great job. Maybe put the carriage bolts on the tool box upside down, so the bolts are inside the toolbox, so no one can steal the toolbox. Other than that you did a awesome job.
This video is amazing!
Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome!
Some things I use a lot are surface mount D-rings. By keeping them 2-3 inches from the sideboards on the floor I still have enough room to lay plywood down without marring it. Usually all I haul is a rider mower. When I'm done the rings fold down.
How do you keep the tongue box dry? I've had issues with condensation in the box...maybe it's the kind of wet climate I live in.
Yea, haven't had any issues with moisture in the box here in the dry Arizona desert.
Great video! Thanks!
thank you Timothy! 😎