@@vhp454 *Galaxie. Small block fords are far superior than chevies. Chevy Needed 4 bolts mains because they're so damn flimsy. Compare a 351w to a 350 sometime, the 350 crank looks like a toy.
nothing wright with it either big block ford the way to go power to wait ratio...being playing with ford v8s over thirty years bush aussie blue oval man
I think Craig is doing what he can afford to do and what he wants to do, And he has said in several videos that's he's not en expert mechanic, so instead of arguing about a ford and Chevy and criticizing everything they do just shut up and watch the damn video
vhp454 my point is what difference does it make? They're doing something that they like to do and trying to learn new stuff. You say they shouldn't get involved working on cars older than they are? Why not? Theyre a hell of lot cheaper and easier to work on. How would you feel if someone gave you shit for trying to learn something new and enjoy it? They should be applauded for being young guys that even consider doing some of the work on cars that they do, they could be like 95% of the kids now days that can't fix a flat on a bicycle, but instead you wanna offer your expert opinion on a ford being better than a Chevy and then criticize them on what they want do, I'm not talking about just you in general I'm talking about all these people that wanna talk about what they're doing in a negative way
Good job Man, I have 67 LTD in progress, & your work is preparing me for whats under the fenders, & other components. I like your approach to start from the inside, & work out to the exterior. These are the moments that you'll remember when you go cruising in her later. Keep pressin' Bro.!
Hey Craig, I went through the same thing with my F-100. The 302 was built with parts from different years, and was shot. I just wanted to mention that if you use your balancer, keep in mind that ford used two different counter weights, 28 ounce up to 1980 and 50 ounce after. If you buy a re manufactured short block make sure it has the crank that fits your balancer and flywheel. Also, if you call around to the local machine shops, you can usually swap your crank for a good one for like $130. and Ive seen a set of remanufactured rods for as low as $100. That might save you some money. Cool project, good luck.
I've always been a 4-speed guy but on my last build I went with a hot 460 motor and a C6 that I "tricked" by going thru, minimizing tolerances, and putting a shift kit in. After 150,000 tough miles beating on the thing......it still shifts like a champ and made a believer out of me concerning the C6......help yourself it you do this by putting a steel "girdle" on the C6 if you can locate one.
I bought a 1968 mustang 9 months ago that I was told had s good engine with it but it ended up being an anchor as well. Found an engine out of a 78 cobra mustang that I gt for $100 which ended up being a good engine and it’s currently at the machine shop being built. Luckily all the parts I had for my previous engine were still a lot of new in box stuff and it wasn’t just a bad block so it saved me a lot of money. I’m only 22 and work full time so I’m scraping for time and money as well to keep the project going
I rebuild VW and some of the older Porche engines, you almost could swap the two engines with a couple of different parts. Boxer engines they are called, even sold a couple for small general aviation aircraft. They are fun to build, light and easy to work on. But you guys sound like master mechannics on the Ford short block engine. Like to see you rebuild the 2.3L on a '90 Ford Ranger so I can get an idea what I'll be getting into. Thanks!
I think the answer is a 347 stroker. 302 block 3.40 crank(Summit Racing sells it Lunati 70534001 $570.99) fits standard blocks, uses standard parts. Summit is the best.
Stroking a 302 requires clearencing the bottom of the cylinders. The cost if the stroker assembly is not worth the 30hp in a non performance application.
Another problem you could be facing is the rod on the big end has a chamfer to keep oil up against the crank the flat sides go against each other on the journal. If they are not correct then it will let lose. So the rods are probably indexed wrong, and from there the pistons go in one direction. So its possible they are on the rods wrong.
There was a recall or service bulletin from Ford back in the late 80's that affected the Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, LTD, Marquis, and Town Car 302 engines. It applied to the mid to late 80's 302 engines. They had issues with main bearing noise. The first bulletin had the dealer replacing upper bearing shells in an attempt to make up for block warpage. Apparently they lightened the 302 blocks around the time they first went to a one piece rear main seal, it didn't show up as a problem until they added multiport fuel injection and serpentine belts. They replaced thousands of motors under this program, so many so that they were shipping motors out to dealers without paperwork, if it had the main rattle, it got a crate motor. The old motors were to be disposed of, they didn't call them back since return shipping to the plant wouldn't be worth the cost. Many of us took these junk engines and re-align bored them, installed a crank kit and ran them with no issues but never in a performance situation. I ran one in a truck for 30 years with no issues. They fixed the problem with the later motors, for some reason I think those were 1988/89 castings. I currently run a 1993 302 from a Mustang GT. I suppose with the number of engines they were replacing, a lot of them got out and were reused by unsuspecting mechanics who didn't know about the service bulletin or recall. I would think that many of the motors got picked up by the scrap guys at the dealerships and sold back as cores to the aftermarket. Mismatched rods and caps were common on run of the mill reman engines, but mismatched caps and rods are never a good sign of quality. Ford did sell replacement main caps back then, you could buy a new set of caps, then align bore the block back into spec. I did have one reman engine with a loose timing chain which ended up have a mis-align bored crank bore. The crank sat nearly .040" too high in the block after they align bored it with used bearing caps. These motors are getting old, the last 302 production motor was 1999 in the Explorer, but the official end of production was 1995, that's nearly 25 years ago. I suppose a lot of these engines now have been rebuilt many times over. I'm glad I saved a dozen new and low mile engines from my days with Ford.
For economy, a 390/406 with an AOD and 3:23/3:55 gears.... Small blocks in heavy cars don't give decent mileage, and the Galaxy is a heavy car. The torque of a big block with O/D and mid 3:00 gears will put the RPM low enough to get decent mileage while having enough torque to pull hills without down shifting.
Ah man, that sucks. Sorry you're having to go through all of that. I had something similar happen with a '56 Ford Fairlane project I picked up. Unfortunately the project stalled and I sold it at a loss. Keep plugging away at it and try to enjoy the rest of the build.
Same thing happened with me. My Pontiac 400 had to much wear in the cylinders. Had to bore it over .020. Now I’m just rebuilding the entire motor. Rods, pistons, studs, everything so now might as well do the top end as well. My planned $1,200 motor is now going to be $5.6k.
I had a 64 Galaxie convertable. Paint job was turquois white top. eng-289 v-8 aoto trans Always hated I let it go. I was 17 when I had it It is a fun car to drive A little later I bought a 63 4 door galaxie with a 4 something eng That car would haul ass I was working from 3 in the afternoon and got off at three in the morning and would bury the the speedomator needle every night going home for almost a year when I sold it I saw the guy who bought it and he still had it and had no plans to sell it, he said it was the best car he ever had.
I ran into a number of remanufactured engines, of a brand I won't mention, that were assembled with rods from other similar engines. I believe that you have one of those reman engines.
You guys are doing good work. That’s awesome! Here’s my suggestion, what I would do, actually what I did do; go on eBay and buy an eagle 347 stroker kit for 1000 bucks and put it in the block that you got right there. They come prebalanced and ready to assemble, bearings and all. Now ya got 45 more cubic inches to play with. Then you can port the heads you’re going to get for it (the GT40s) and have a decent little motor putting down 300 or so hp, probably. My stroker’s over 500 hp with AFR Heads and all the good stuff. Look into it and think about it. That’s the route I would take.
I agree with ya' about sticking with the small block, also with getting a reman. short block . There should be a pretty decent warrantee goes with that shorty too . I admire you for taking on a project of this size . Good Luck !! My wife has a 1960 T-Bird that I'm trying to get back on the road . it has good bones and a solid body , but all the little hash job repairs over the years makes it a nite'mare !! Every time ya' start to fix something ya' find something else needs attention !! Good Gravy it never ends !!!!!!! LOL!
Balancing is good but honestly, I’m an old guy who’s put a bunch of engines together without weighing or balancing anything. I’ve also fired up and ran engines that I’m sure were in worse shape than this one as far as corrosion. If the clearances were right (on the bearings) and things were torqued right, this collection of parts from the “saved parts bin” COULD have ran ok. It does look like it was assembled dry (wow) which makes it seem like whoever did the assembly didn’t have much knowledge and caused the wiped out main bearing.
Many years ago I was a parts washer/general flunky,in a garage.One of the mechanics put a 6 cylinder Dodge engine together,but put the rear main bearing halves in upside down.Top on bottom,bottom on top.Only difference was top half had o hole for oil to the rod bearings.Of course,the rod bearings burned out within a few minutes.Bastard tried to blame me for mixing up the bearings.
Toyota motors used to put rods anywhere , used to work in wrecking yard seen that many old Toyota motors with caps just put anywhere !! Must of though there machining was that spot on !!!
Get her done........F.E Big blocks are cool , but you need to get the 64 on the road, then you can decide , about the big block and collect parts to do it , most likely that would be the better plan and having the car driving and using it enjoying it is better then no engine. But this coming from a guy who had a 64 X/L with the bucket seats and 4spd super Borg W, T-10 for runner to the Top loader 390 3x2s carbs, 4:10 locker , put in 427 valves and springs and used the mech. adjustable rockers with anti pump up hyd. lifters ...this is a trick that Ford guys did the mech rockers gives you a little more lift ratio then the non adjustable do and using a 427 med. riser cam/or 428 Super Cobra Jet Cam , makes lots of power and pulls all the way through . The 427 valves intake and exhaust with the 64 big block heads ..these are big port heads stock on all F.E 390s back then ....in 1966 mid year GT cars early models had these big ports head later had the smaller port heads you can tell by the exhaust manifold bolt patterns big port had 2 bolts top and bottom small port 3 much like the 428 SCJ set up but for the 428 CJ they were the big port with the 427 valves so if you come across real SCJ heads and you plan down the road to do the big block thing grab them. 390 GT those years small port late 66-69. The only other thing you should do if you build someday a F.E is get the big 428 rods or 427 . even 390 GT is better then the 64 rods. And again build the small block and get the car running you may just want to keep the car as is .....and that is fine also..................the above info though works for FE BBs and works very well for horse power I'd not run less then 10 to 1 in fact back in the day I was running 10.5 to 1......all the best nice talking 64s and Fords with you. OH yeah use a 427 oil pump drive shaft or you can spin the shaft with a stock one.
You could do a stroker crank since you’re that far anyway and it’s not that much honestly. Give you more torque for that bigger car. A 347 stroker would be a good engine for that ol galaxie.
Are you the original owner? You sound like it. Did you not hear anything he said? That engine was SCRAP. I wouldn't have wasted anything on that boat anchor. face it, the thing had so much wrong with it.
Here's the deal,do what you want to do,it's your iron. There isn't anything wrong with a small block in a galaxy either. Automatic trans is what it came with. It ain't broke,so use it. Back in my day,I did more damage to the big block pukes,roadrunners/chevelle's etc with my 65 1/2 K model mustang,top loader,and my secret weapon? Factory welded on t-bars.Your galaxy has class and style.You'll love cruising in her.
i seen these blocks slapped together w/o even ball honing the cylinders they’ve ran ok with like 3 pistons from a 289 and maybe a rod or 2. Plus with like 1 e7 head and 1 e6 head with different chambers. the ford small block V8 is a work f art even though id gets hated on. its like the old 300 vs 302 debate the 300 is a gret engine but you can get so much more power and have more fun with the 302! I really wish ford would’ve made the 300 I6 a turbo diesel! It is perfect for it, I bet it would’ve rivaled the 6bt!
did you guys inspect the oil pump? seems like while the oil pan had plenty of oil but i didn't see any any sign that any oil had circulated anywhere in the engine.
YOur Galaxie looks like the one I had for my first car. It was a 289 with a 3 speed on the column and very unpredictable as to oil usage - might use a quart in 50 miles then go 1500 without using any oil. One never knew what it would do. Constant electrical problems.
After a certain year(1995?) a lot of bolts were produced like that. I remember that the first Vega I worked on had that type of bolts on it. As a mechanic it kind of pissed me off as well.
@@justinw.2376 I have done this exact swap to a 460. the 390 was what were originally in most of the galaxies. I know the tranny is different from the 302 but with how the engine was done, Id be hesitant on trusting the tranny anyway.
Forget that Boat Anchor and start with a stroked 390 ! Boy you need torque on that heavy full size car . They make a crank kit for a 445 using a 390 at around 500 hp on pump gas .
Enjoyed the breakdown and thought behind the engine build and the reason you're taking the route you are, Craig. Good call going with a new short block. Excited to see how it turns out.
I thought you took everything to the machine shop because they should’ve gauged everything before anything was done so that they would know what needs to be done or replaced as far as the crank heads engine block so on so forth
Match the engine to the vehicle, if the car is solid and free of rust, a new engine would be appropriate. There are a LOT of cars here in NY State that have engines still going strong while the Rust Monster eats the bodies out from around them.
Man, what a shame, a New short block is good, but it would be much cheaper to shop around for a good used 302, they are plentiful, and cheap, especially if you going to replace it with a big block.
Side of thrust bearings all look like that its not burnt. Now wearing on lower bearing shows block needs line bored are crank was ground wrong like egg shape or offset. They ground the crank 0.020 undersize nothing odd about that. Over torqueing on main bolt will not cause that you stretch bolt and never get it to torqued.....Did you get matching sets of heads? GT-40P head came from Explorer
I would never grind a crank that was already ground .020 under. Too much chance of a .030 under crank breaking. Rods typically don't need to be resized because you ground the crank, the bearings for your newly ground crank fit the stock rods as long as the old bearings weren't spun.
Just get a Ford explorer short are long block out of the junkyard.. for way less than getting that block machined and balanced use the extra money you save and put towards something else for the car... Like a cam upgrade
I'm sorry they are ripping you off a bunch. You have to resize all rods for every rebuild.. Get a Jegs engine and drop it in. I've built more engines than you can shake a stick at. I used to get full short blocks done for 5-600 and balanced for 800.
who is your engine machine guy? im working a few blocks out of hisparia and he keeps over or under boring my blocks. 454 to tight, toyota block to lose
That motor was never balanced. If it had been, some of the square pads on the big end of the rods would have been ground/sanded on. That is done to make the rods all weigh the same. Do yourself a favor and get a new set of connecting rods. They are only $210 from Summit Racing.
Your 302 block was definitely a 'late' model block... that accounts for your metric hardware. Sorry its such a nightmare for you... I think your seeing why crate motors are really appealing.
When I did my last freshen-up and engine transplant, we went to the junk-yard / bone-yard and for $400 I got a 302 roller motor for wifey's pink & purple '64 Ranchero. Machine shop $300 heads resurfaced, guides machined for Teflon oil seals, seats machined for 460 valve springs, 3 angle valve job awesome. $700 for built 302. + 220 degree / .485" (Boss 429 specs) FORD motor sports cam
If you don't have a buddy at a machine shop or have use of machine tools for yourself, get used to everything costing up to 50% more. Just the way it is. I've been a mechanic for 40+ years and I bought a lot of machines. If you are going to do this as a serious hobby or maybe a job, you should get a valve and seat grinder set first. then if you can find a portable boring bar and learn how to use them, you take about 30% off you jobs. Just to let you know restoring or even just getting old stuff running cost a mint.
sorry mate problery being a windsor fully rebuilt will spin a main bearing again....should have built a cleve o in first place ive been a ford man for over thirty years rebuilt all of them clevo the best ....in the bush aussie man
I completely understand about being economical and a small block is still awesome! You get power and gas mileage. It's amazing how you as a full time student can still find time and the big one, money, to do stuff like this. I'm sure your sleep is negligible, so hats off to you! I know I couldn't do it.
Too many folks, when they encounter this numerous problems with a project, either become overwhelmed and never start or just say screw it. You are keeping optimistic n not giving up. Please keep giving us that in these videos! You have the opportunity to show us how to take a poorly thrown together project and get it correct. Take advantage of that potential video content. Keep the cameras rolling n turn this into a solid build. Also, if you ever choose to sell it, you have lists and info of everything done to make the car a solid build but you also have video documenting such. This should increase the resell value. Also, consider the potential that your number of subscribers could possibly hit a high enough number that rather than buying this car because it's a cool car, someone could possibly one day be buying this car because it's built by the legendary Craig L! Hats off to ya bro, keep up the fine work n keep teaching us!
Wow who put it together the three stogies. Well at least you are putting in a another small block,to me small blocks are better and cooler with or with out a stick. both of my trucks have a small block with a stick and would not put in a big block they are just as cool as big block just the way they are.
Good logic on pretty much everything. A roller 5.0 is far too common to invest big machine shop bucks in when you can get a nice low mile used or competently rebuilt engine for less than the shop bill. I believe all '64 Galaxies had a 9" rear regardless of engine, I don't think that Ford ever made an 8" that wide. You might consider a 351W, as it will bolt in with all of the small block parts and give much better torque in a big heavy car.
Sorry but here is what i would have done,it's a small block ford,the only thing that screwed this motor was they left out the cam bolt. And i think the fuel pump cup on the cam gear?the rest was OK ,for a mad max motor.it would have run period.i know i have a 289/302 motor 65 mustang.sits for 30 years ,fire it up once a year.then i drain the WATER OUT completely.The machine shop quoted you as if you had a decent motor that you were attached too.right then you should have taken it home and did a lot more research.a 351 Windsor wrecking yard motor would have been a fair choice.Not the Cleveland 351 its to big.Your friend is good on the casting no's,he should have recommend something like that. ford small blocks and Chevy small blocks like 283/307 /327 350.are all great engines.The fun is learning about how they where developed.your best tool is knowledge and asking old timers questions.
Pistons are not balanced to a certain hole as you are saying as long as the piston is probably installed in the bore with the rod facing the proper direction it doesn't matter. Pistons are marked to face the front of the motor and rods are chamfered on one side of the big end to face to the outside of the rod throw on the crankshaft.
go to a AOD 4 speed automatic trans and a 373 gear for the 8" with that engine, might get 15 mpg or a little more on the hwy. I'd go 194 int and 154 exh. or 160 exh. if there's room. the Comp cams are good www.compcams.com/magnum-215-215-hydraulic-roller-cam-and-lifter-kit-for-ford-221-302.html might work good
Oil pump/distributor is driven off the camshaft, since it wasn't turning, there was no oil going to the motor, this was obvious looking at the dry innards, as well as the oil filter had different colored oil in it, there had never been any of the new oil flowing through the filter (and on to the rest of the motor). I'd replace the oil pump as well (if the new short block doesn't include one), from the quality of what I saw, I wouldn't trust any parts from that old motor.
Cam bearings are not toast and there not burnt either. Rod number don't mean anything just factory marked them to tell which side bearing tang goes and to know which rod and cap go together so they didn't mix them up. I could grind all numbers off and re stamp them all #2. But if you had them apart with 8 rods and rod caps sitting there would you know which one goes together NOOOO. Numbers are for assemble line guy that's all . All rods, bearings and pistons are the same and rod stamp number mean nothing. Most stock rebuilds are not balanced either
Glad to see someone using their brain first, instead of wallet first, headaches later. Im impressed with everything so far, and you are an engineering student to boot. Good things are headed your way my friend. Good luck, thats a bad-ass Galaxie.
If you ever make the mistake of wasting money to rebuild a SB Ford, always use an oil pump drive mounted on a drill to prime the oil pump. Before you install the distributor. Don’t waste the money on a static balance, you can do it yourself at home on a bench. Been there...
You sounded frustrated towards the end of the video.... and probably quite rightly so....your car, your money, i think you did it the right way. All the best from Oz !!!
It is not 1975 - wrecking yards are not full of cars that you can pick parts from; we codgers who were picking parts in '75 forget that sometimes - I reckon you are doing a exceptional job at this - and you are taking a rational approach to the cost/result/value challenges, driving a strong small block in a big car at the limit is fun, and not as hairy as a big car/ big block combination. Well done.
I enjoyed your heart-felt talk and your story so far and the sensible logic and thoughts you had. You make sense. Thank you. Comments are cheap here and people can make suggestions that are quite inappropriate. Kudos to you, who can sort it out and make sense out of it all.
I think you are doing the right thing with it. After seeing the top end and then just what you showed the rods all out of wack. A new short block is the only way to go. Keep up with videos like these and I'll be watching a long time!!! 👍
The car was already set up for the small block. It would be a whole lot of work to make it accept a different engine, and I mean A LOT. With Galaxies being pretty popular cars now then all those parts are likely to be expensive...
@@gosportjamie 351 is a small block engine and it wouldn't take anymore to make it work in the car and would of cost him less then a 302. Who's to say that once he gets the new engine in it the trans isn't shot or something else is just as bad as the 302 was. If the inside of the engine looked like that after sitting what do you think the inside of the trans and diff look like?
351 windsor is a small block and it is not be a lot of work to drop a 390 or 460 in that car if he wanted too those cars were built with 390's in it all it would take is motor mounts that's all
Staying with SB is very smart idea ......................also.....On an externally balanced small-block Ford, both the flywheel/flexplate and the balancer must have the correct amount of imbalance for the particular crankshaft being used.
The greater reciprocating mass of the FE is there for a reason. My parents had a 64 with a 352...ran pretty good, my uncle had a 64 with a 289...it was a dog...but it was pretty...white with a blue interior. Uncle sold the 64..and got a 75 Torino Sport..351C...quite peppy.
This is an honest view of classic car ownership, lots of time and money, sometimes it feels like its not worth it until you take it out for a good cruise, then all is forgiving. It a galaxie i would want at least a 5.7 liter.
Why don't you just pull the rotating assembly out, clean it up/replace it, get a ball hone, hone the cylinders, then put it all back together? Just an idea to save money on machining.
Sometimes you’re the windshield so,writes you’re the bug. I went through this with a Saturn we but cost me a mint to get the clutch, etc... sorted., butt, in the end, we needed up with a good reliable car. Good luck on the build
looks like this motor was put to gather with used parts from a few engines at least you will know whats been dun now sorry about the motor and the motor was thew together
It's nothing at all wrong with a small block in a Galaxie 👍🏻
@@vhp454 *Galaxie. Small block fords are far superior than chevies. Chevy Needed 4 bolts mains because they're so damn flimsy. Compare a 351w to a 350 sometime, the 350 crank looks like a toy.
nothing wright with it either big block ford the way to go power to wait ratio...being playing with ford v8s over thirty years bush aussie blue oval man
I think Craig is doing what he can afford to do and what he wants to do, And he has said in several videos that's he's not en expert mechanic, so instead of arguing about a ford and Chevy and criticizing everything they do just shut up and watch the damn video
vhp454 my point is what difference does it make? They're doing something that they like to do and trying to learn new stuff. You say they shouldn't get involved working on cars older than they are? Why not? Theyre a hell of lot cheaper and easier to work on. How would you feel if someone gave you shit for trying to learn something new and enjoy it? They should be applauded for being young guys that even consider doing some of the work on cars that they do, they could be like 95% of the kids now days that can't fix a flat on a bicycle, but instead you wanna offer your expert opinion on a ford being better than a Chevy and then criticize them on what they want do, I'm not talking about just you in general I'm talking about all these people that wanna talk about what they're doing in a negative way
@@edwardsgarage7427 shut your face ewards
Good job Man, I have 67 LTD in progress, & your work is preparing me for whats under the fenders, & other components. I like your approach to start from the inside, & work out to the exterior. These are the moments that you'll remember when you go cruising in her later. Keep pressin' Bro.!
Hey Craig, I went through the same thing with my F-100. The 302 was built with parts from different years, and was shot. I just wanted to mention that if you use your balancer, keep in mind that ford used two different counter weights, 28 ounce up to 1980 and 50 ounce after. If you buy a re manufactured short block make sure it has the crank that fits your balancer and flywheel. Also, if you call around to the local machine shops, you can usually swap your crank for a good one for like $130. and Ive seen a set of remanufactured rods for as low as $100. That might save you some money. Cool project, good luck.
I've always been a 4-speed guy but on my last build I went with a hot 460 motor and a C6 that I "tricked" by going thru, minimizing tolerances, and putting a shift kit in. After 150,000 tough miles beating on the thing......it still shifts like a champ and made a believer out of me concerning the C6......help yourself it you do this by putting a steel "girdle" on the C6 if you can locate one.
I bought a 1968 mustang 9 months ago that I was told had s good engine with it but it ended up being an anchor as well. Found an engine out of a 78 cobra mustang that I gt for $100 which ended up being a good engine and it’s currently at the machine shop being built. Luckily all the parts I had for my previous engine were still a lot of new in box stuff and it wasn’t just a bad block so it saved me a lot of money. I’m only 22 and work full time so I’m scraping for time and money as well to keep the project going
I rebuild VW and some of the older Porche engines, you almost could swap the two engines with a couple of different parts. Boxer engines they are called, even sold a couple for small general aviation aircraft. They are fun to build, light and easy to work on. But you guys sound like master mechannics on the Ford short block engine. Like to see you rebuild the 2.3L on a '90 Ford Ranger so I can get an idea what I'll be getting into. Thanks!
I think the answer is a 347 stroker. 302 block 3.40 crank(Summit Racing sells it Lunati 70534001 $570.99) fits standard blocks, uses standard parts. Summit is the best.
Stroking a 302 requires clearencing the bottom of the cylinders. The cost if the stroker assembly is not worth the 30hp in a non performance application.
Another problem you could be facing is the rod on the big end has a chamfer to keep oil up against the crank the flat sides go against each other on the journal. If they are not correct then it will let lose. So the rods are probably indexed wrong, and from there the pistons go in one direction. So its possible they are on the rods wrong.
There was a recall or service bulletin from Ford back in the late 80's that affected the Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, LTD, Marquis, and Town Car 302 engines. It applied to the mid to late 80's 302 engines. They had issues with main bearing noise. The first bulletin had the dealer replacing upper bearing shells in an attempt to make up for block warpage. Apparently they lightened the 302 blocks around the time they first went to a one piece rear main seal, it didn't show up as a problem until they added multiport fuel injection and serpentine belts. They replaced thousands of motors under this program, so many so that they were shipping motors out to dealers without paperwork, if it had the main rattle, it got a crate motor. The old motors were to be disposed of, they didn't call them back since return shipping to the plant wouldn't be worth the cost.
Many of us took these junk engines and re-align bored them, installed a crank kit and ran them with no issues but never in a performance situation. I ran one in a truck for 30 years with no issues. They fixed the problem with the later motors, for some reason I think those were 1988/89 castings. I currently run a 1993 302 from a Mustang GT.
I suppose with the number of engines they were replacing, a lot of them got out and were reused by unsuspecting mechanics who didn't know about the service bulletin or recall. I would think that many of the motors got picked up by the scrap guys at the dealerships and sold back as cores to the aftermarket. Mismatched rods and caps were common on run of the mill reman engines, but mismatched caps and rods are never a good sign of quality. Ford did sell replacement main caps back then, you could buy a new set of caps, then align bore the block back into spec. I did have one reman engine with a loose timing chain which ended up have a mis-align bored crank bore. The crank sat nearly .040" too high in the block after they align bored it with used bearing caps. These motors are getting old, the last 302 production motor was 1999 in the Explorer, but the official end of production was 1995, that's nearly 25 years ago. I suppose a lot of these engines now have been rebuilt many times over.
I'm glad I saved a dozen new and low mile engines from my days with Ford.
For economy, a 390/406 with an AOD and 3:23/3:55 gears.... Small blocks in heavy cars don't give decent mileage, and the Galaxy is a heavy car. The torque of a big block with O/D and mid 3:00 gears will put the RPM low enough to get decent mileage while having enough torque to pull hills without down shifting.
Ah man, that sucks. Sorry you're having to go through all of that. I had something similar happen with a '56 Ford Fairlane project I picked up. Unfortunately the project stalled and I sold it at a loss. Keep plugging away at it and try to enjoy the rest of the build.
Same thing happened with me. My Pontiac 400 had to much wear in the cylinders. Had to bore it over .020. Now I’m just rebuilding the entire motor. Rods, pistons, studs, everything so now might as well do the top end as well. My planned $1,200 motor is now going to be $5.6k.
I had a 64 Galaxie convertable. Paint job was turquois white top. eng-289 v-8 aoto trans Always hated I let it go. I was 17 when I had it It is a fun car to drive A little later I bought a 63 4 door galaxie with a 4 something eng That car would haul ass I was working from 3 in the afternoon and got off at three in the morning and would bury the the speedomator needle every night going home for almost a year when I sold it I saw the guy who bought it and he still had it and had no plans to sell it, he said it was the best car he ever had.
The barn find guys see a 63 galaxy that is axle deep in mud , they see an easy restore. I see something like this channel.
I ran into a number of remanufactured engines, of a brand I won't mention, that were assembled with rods from other similar engines. I believe that you have one of those reman engines.
You guys are doing good work. That’s awesome! Here’s my suggestion, what I would do, actually what I did do; go on eBay and buy an eagle 347 stroker kit for 1000 bucks and put it in the block that you got right there. They come prebalanced and ready to assemble, bearings and all. Now ya got 45 more cubic inches to play with. Then you can port the heads you’re going to get for it (the GT40s) and have a decent little motor putting down 300 or so hp, probably. My stroker’s over 500 hp with AFR Heads and all the good stuff. Look into it and think about it. That’s the route I would take.
The Oil that came out of the filter is an additive that is in the filter for high mileage engines, sort of like Slick 50. I've bought one before.
Filters do not come with oil in them.
I agree with ya' about sticking with the small block, also with getting a reman. short block . There should be a pretty decent warrantee goes with that shorty too . I admire you for taking on a project of this size . Good Luck !! My wife has a 1960 T-Bird that I'm trying to get back on the road . it has good bones and a solid body , but all the little hash job repairs over the years makes it a nite'mare !! Every time ya' start to fix something ya' find something else needs attention !! Good Gravy it never ends !!!!!!! LOL!
Balancing is good but honestly, I’m an old guy who’s put a bunch of engines together without weighing or balancing anything. I’ve also fired up and ran engines that I’m sure were in worse shape than this one as far as corrosion. If the clearances were right (on the bearings) and things were torqued right, this collection of parts from the “saved parts bin” COULD have ran ok. It does look like it was assembled dry (wow) which makes it seem like whoever did the assembly didn’t have much knowledge and caused the wiped out main bearing.
Many years ago I was a parts washer/general flunky,in a garage.One of the mechanics put a 6 cylinder Dodge engine together,but put the rear main bearing halves in upside down.Top on bottom,bottom on top.Only difference was top half had o hole for oil to the rod bearings.Of course,the rod bearings burned out within a few minutes.Bastard tried to blame me for mixing up the bearings.
I think you are making the best decision.
Toyota motors used to put rods anywhere , used to work in wrecking yard seen that many old Toyota motors with caps just put anywhere !! Must of though there machining was that spot on !!!
Get her done........F.E Big blocks are cool , but you need to get the 64 on the road, then you can decide , about the big block and collect parts to do it , most likely that would be the better plan
and having the car driving and using it enjoying it is better then no engine. But this coming from a guy who had a 64 X/L with the bucket seats and 4spd super Borg W, T-10 for runner to the Top loader 390 3x2s carbs, 4:10 locker , put in 427 valves and springs and used the mech. adjustable rockers with anti pump up hyd. lifters ...this is a trick that Ford guys did the mech rockers gives you a little more lift ratio then the non adjustable do and using a 427 med. riser cam/or 428 Super Cobra Jet Cam , makes lots of power and pulls all the way through . The 427 valves intake and exhaust with the 64 big block heads ..these are big port heads stock on all F.E 390s back then ....in 1966 mid year GT cars early models had these big ports head later had the smaller port heads you can tell by the exhaust manifold bolt patterns big port had 2 bolts top and bottom small port 3 much like the 428 SCJ set up but for the 428 CJ they were the big port with the 427 valves so if you come across real SCJ heads and you plan down the road to do the big block thing grab them. 390 GT those years small port late 66-69. The only other thing you should do if you build someday a F.E is get the big 428 rods or 427 . even 390 GT is better then the 64 rods. And again build the small block and get the car running you may just want to keep the car as is .....and that is fine also..................the above info though works for FE BBs and works very well for horse power I'd not run less then 10 to 1 in fact back in the day I was running 10.5 to 1......all the best nice talking 64s and Fords with you. OH yeah use a 427 oil pump drive shaft or you can spin the shaft with a stock one.
You could do a stroker crank since you’re that far anyway and it’s not that much honestly. Give you more torque for that bigger car. A 347 stroker would be a good engine for that ol galaxie.
Also, if you’re keeping that crank have it checked for straightness. 302 cranks have a tendency to bend...
Put it back together like it is.see how long it lasts.it might surprise you
Are you the original owner? You sound like it. Did you not hear anything he said? That engine was SCRAP. I wouldn't have wasted anything on that boat anchor. face it, the thing had so much wrong with it.
Here's the deal,do what you want to do,it's your iron. There isn't anything wrong with a small block in a galaxy either. Automatic trans is what it came with. It ain't broke,so use it. Back in my day,I did more damage to the big block pukes,roadrunners/chevelle's etc with my 65 1/2 K model mustang,top loader,and my secret weapon? Factory welded on t-bars.Your galaxy has class and style.You'll love cruising in her.
Jup, clearly not only a forgotten cam bolt, but also no oil pressure!
Had no oil pressure because the cam turns the distributor and it drives the oil pump.. not timing chain no oil psi .. scored bearings
i seen these blocks slapped together w/o even ball honing the cylinders they’ve ran ok with like 3 pistons from a 289 and maybe a rod or 2. Plus with like 1 e7 head and 1 e6 head with different chambers. the ford small block V8 is a work f art even though id gets hated on. its like the old 300 vs 302 debate the 300 is a gret engine but you can get so much more power and have more fun with the 302! I really wish ford would’ve made the 300 I6 a turbo diesel! It is perfect for it, I bet it would’ve rivaled the 6bt!
did you guys inspect the oil pump? seems like while the oil pan had plenty of oil but i didn't see any any sign that any oil had circulated anywhere in the engine.
I was wondering if they found the oil pump drive shaft
YOur Galaxie looks like the one I had for my first car. It was a 289 with a 3 speed on the column and very unpredictable as to oil usage - might use a quart in 50 miles then go 1500 without using any oil. One never knew what it would do. Constant electrical problems.
After a certain year(1995?) a lot of bolts were produced like that. I remember that the first Vega I worked on had that type of bolts on it. As a mechanic it kind of pissed me off as well.
what gets me in this day & age,is,THERES BOOKS,MATES,INTERNET,.
If it was me, I would find a 390 or a 429/460 for it. they are direct bolt ins with off the shelf motor mounts.
todd denio it more of a job than just motor mounts
Trans, wiring harness, exhaust, crossmember, driveshaft etc... it’s a big job. Not to mention cool springs
@@justinw.2376 I have done this exact swap to a 460. the 390 was what were originally in most of the galaxies. I know the tranny is different from the 302 but with how the engine was done, Id be hesitant on trusting the tranny anyway.
@@alanb2845 I have done this exact swap before and its NOT a difficult swap.
Forget that Boat Anchor and start with a stroked 390 ! Boy you need torque on that heavy full size car . They make a crank kit for a 445 using a 390 at around 500 hp on pump gas .
turbo it for torque
It seems that engine ran without oilpressure, so it maybe missing a certain plug in the block near the oilpump.
get a set of eagle rods,there could be 2 engines worth of rods in it.&,a stroker crank kit.
Enjoyed the breakdown and thought behind the engine build and the reason you're taking the route you are, Craig. Good call going with a new short block. Excited to see how it turns out.
Thank you! Much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed it.
V8 explorers have good heads roller cam.you could have done swap basically free.to rebuild stock 302 short block with new pistons max 450 dollars
I thought you took everything to the machine shop because they should’ve gauged everything before anything was done so that they would know what needs to be done or replaced as far as the crank heads engine block so on so forth
Wow what all did you replace everything
What was the company you found for that short block that sounds like a reaaaalllly good deal
Match the engine to the vehicle, if the car is solid and free of rust, a new engine would be appropriate. There are a LOT of cars here in NY State that have engines still going strong while the Rust Monster eats the bodies out from around them.
Man, what a shame, a New short block is good, but it would be much cheaper to shop around for a good used 302, they are plentiful, and cheap, especially if you going to replace it with a big block.
Strange.............................There were a lot of "big blocks" from the factory in those galixies. I know I was around in those years.
Side of thrust bearings all look like that its not burnt. Now wearing on lower bearing shows block needs line bored are crank was ground wrong like egg shape or offset. They ground the crank 0.020 undersize nothing odd about that. Over torqueing on main bolt will not cause that you stretch bolt and never get it to torqued.....Did you get matching sets of heads? GT-40P head came from Explorer
I would never grind a crank that was already ground .020 under. Too much chance of a .030 under crank breaking. Rods typically don't need to be resized because you ground the crank, the bearings for your newly ground crank fit the stock rods as long as the old bearings weren't spun.
It's ext balanced.
Just get a Ford explorer short are long block out of the junkyard.. for way less than getting that block machined and balanced use the extra money you save and put towards something else for the car... Like a cam upgrade
Merch would be sick
You need CHEVY 454 POWER
I think I know that shop,, it's called getter done,,😅
did you take the engine stand off the engine?
I'm sorry they are ripping you off a bunch. You have to resize all rods for every rebuild.. Get a Jegs engine and drop it in. I've built more engines than you can shake a stick at. I used to get full short blocks done for 5-600 and balanced for 800.
Great vid
who is your engine machine guy? im working a few blocks out of hisparia and he keeps over or under boring my blocks. 454 to tight, toyota block to lose
That motor was never balanced. If it had been, some of the square pads on the big end of the rods would have been ground/sanded on. That is done to make the rods all weigh the same. Do yourself a favor and get a new set of connecting rods. They are only $210 from Summit Racing.
Your 302 block was definitely a 'late' model block... that accounts for your metric hardware. Sorry its such a nightmare for you... I think your seeing why crate motors are really appealing.
When I did my last freshen-up and engine transplant, we went to the junk-yard / bone-yard and for $400 I got a 302 roller motor for wifey's pink & purple '64 Ranchero.
Machine shop $300 heads resurfaced, guides machined for Teflon oil seals, seats machined for 460 valve springs, 3 angle valve job awesome. $700 for built 302. + 220 degree / .485" (Boss 429 specs) FORD motor sports cam
86 block, 87 main caps, 83 heads. 87 rods mixed with 71 rods. What a cluster.
If you don't have a buddy at a machine shop or have use of machine tools for yourself, get used to everything costing up to 50% more. Just the way it is. I've been a mechanic for 40+ years and I bought a lot of machines. If you are going to do this as a serious hobby or maybe a job, you should get a valve and seat grinder set first. then if you can find a portable boring bar and learn how to use them, you take about 30% off you jobs. Just to let you know restoring or even just getting old stuff running cost a mint.
sorry mate problery being a windsor fully rebuilt will spin a main bearing again....should have built a cleve o in first place ive been a ford man for over thirty years rebuilt all of them clevo the best ....in the bush aussie man
I get 700 hp out of 302s its a good platform
I completely understand about being economical and a small block is still awesome! You get power and gas mileage. It's amazing how you as a full time student can still find time and the big one, money, to do stuff like this. I'm sure your sleep is negligible, so hats off to you! I know I couldn't do it.
Too many folks, when they encounter this numerous problems with a project, either become overwhelmed and never start or just say screw it. You are keeping optimistic n not giving up. Please keep giving us that in these videos! You have the opportunity to show us how to take a poorly thrown together project and get it correct. Take advantage of that potential video content. Keep the cameras rolling n turn this into a solid build. Also, if you ever choose to sell it, you have lists and info of everything done to make the car a solid build but you also have video documenting such. This should increase the resell value. Also, consider the potential that your number of subscribers could possibly hit a high enough number that rather than buying this car because it's a cool car, someone could possibly one day be buying this car because it's built by the legendary Craig L! Hats off to ya bro, keep up the fine work n keep teaching us!
Wow who put it together the three stogies. Well at least you are putting in a another small block,to me small blocks are better and cooler with or with out a stick. both of my trucks have a small block with a stick and would not put in a big block they are just as cool as big block just the way they are.
Why not just get a new crate motor ?
Good logic on pretty much everything. A roller 5.0 is far too common to invest big machine shop bucks in when you can get a nice low mile used or competently rebuilt engine for less than the shop bill. I believe all '64 Galaxies had a 9" rear regardless of engine, I don't think that Ford ever made an 8" that wide. You might consider a 351W, as it will bolt in with all of the small block parts and give much better torque in a big heavy car.
Why are some of those holes deep and some were shallow?
Sorry but here is what i would have done,it's a small block ford,the only thing that screwed this motor was they left out the cam bolt. And i think the fuel pump cup on the cam gear?the rest was OK ,for a mad max motor.it would have run period.i know i have a 289/302 motor 65 mustang.sits for 30 years ,fire it up once a year.then i drain the WATER OUT completely.The machine shop quoted you as if you had a decent motor that you were attached too.right then you should have taken it home and did a lot more research.a 351 Windsor wrecking yard motor would have been a fair choice.Not the Cleveland 351 its to big.Your friend is good on the casting no's,he should have recommend something like that. ford small blocks and Chevy small blocks like 283/307 /327 350.are all great engines.The fun is learning about how they where developed.your best tool is knowledge and asking old timers questions.
Why don't you find a FE 390 original type engine in it
Pistons are not balanced to a certain hole as you are saying as long as the piston is probably installed in the bore with the rod facing the proper direction it doesn't matter. Pistons are marked to face the front of the motor and rods are chamfered on one side of the big end to face to the outside of the rod throw on the crankshaft.
Damn I'm glad I can do this in my garage. Building bottom ends is expensive as fuck if you need the shop to build it. Fuck their thieves
It goes 1 3 5 7 on one side...
Nope. This ain't a Chevy. Looking from the front, Fords are 1-2-3-4 down the passenger side and 5-6-7-8 down the driver side.
Stroke and bore a 351w
go to a AOD 4 speed automatic trans and a 373 gear for the 8" with that engine, might get 15 mpg or a little more on the hwy.
I'd go 194 int and 154 exh. or 160 exh. if there's room. the Comp cams are good
www.compcams.com/magnum-215-215-hydraulic-roller-cam-and-lifter-kit-for-ford-221-302.html might work good
buy a scat stroker kit
Oil pump/distributor is driven off the camshaft, since it wasn't turning, there was no oil going to the motor, this was obvious looking at the dry innards, as well as the oil filter had different colored oil in it, there had never been any of the new oil flowing through the filter (and on to the rest of the motor). I'd replace the oil pump as well (if the new short block doesn't include one), from the quality of what I saw, I wouldn't trust any parts from that old motor.
no cam turning you got nothing
302+4300lbs = bad fuel mileage no matter how you cut it
Car weighs 3600 lbs
Get a FE. Throw a 390 in it
Cam bearings are not toast and there not burnt either. Rod number don't mean anything just factory marked them to tell which side bearing tang goes and to know which rod and cap go together so they didn't mix them up. I could grind all numbers off and re stamp them all #2. But if you had them apart with 8 rods and rod caps sitting there would you know which one goes together NOOOO. Numbers are for assemble line guy that's all . All rods, bearings and pistons are the same and rod stamp number mean nothing. Most stock rebuilds are not balanced either
Glad to see someone using their brain first, instead of wallet first, headaches later. Im impressed with everything so far, and you are an engineering student to boot. Good things are headed your way my friend. Good luck, thats a bad-ass Galaxie.
If you ever make the mistake of wasting money to rebuild a SB Ford, always use an oil pump drive mounted on a drill to prime the oil pump. Before you install the distributor. Don’t waste the money on a static balance, you can do it yourself at home on a bench.
Been there...
unlucky, unfortunately we all win some and we all lose some.
Greenish blue tongue hanging out of the motor... Sad -(
Cheapest way is buy a good running car for 5 to 6 hundred dollars.then you have plenty of spare parts.
Put an ls in it.
You sounded frustrated towards the end of the video.... and probably quite rightly so....your car, your money, i think you did it the right way. All the best from Oz !!!
It is not 1975 - wrecking yards are not full of cars that you can pick parts from; we codgers who were picking parts in '75 forget that sometimes - I reckon you are doing a exceptional job at this - and you are taking a rational approach to the cost/result/value challenges, driving a strong small block in a big car at the limit is fun, and not as hairy as a big car/ big block combination. Well done.
I enjoyed your heart-felt talk and your story so far and the sensible logic and thoughts you had. You make sense. Thank you.
Comments are cheap here and people can make suggestions that are quite inappropriate. Kudos to you, who can sort it out and make sense out of it all.
I think you are doing the right thing with it. After seeing the top end and then just what you showed the rods all out of wack. A new short block is the only way to go. Keep up with videos like these and I'll be watching a long time!!! 👍
Go to the junkyard and get a 351 roller from a 2000 Ford e250-350 van and build it. Way more power and better base to start with
The car was already set up for the small block. It would be a whole lot of work to make it accept a different engine, and I mean A LOT. With Galaxies being pretty popular cars now then all those parts are likely to be expensive...
@@gosportjamie a 351 is a small block. Same bellhousing patern, same engine mounts, same headers
@@gosportjamie 351 is a small block engine and it wouldn't take anymore to make it work in the car and would of cost him less then a 302. Who's to say that once he gets the new engine in it the trans isn't shot or something else is just as bad as the 302 was. If the inside of the engine looked like that after sitting what do you think the inside of the trans and diff look like?
@@gosportjamie 351 is small block, it is the same size as a 302, and is almost identical to 302 and 289
351 windsor is a small block and it is not be a lot of work to drop a 390 or 460 in that car if he wanted too those cars were built with 390's in it all it would take is motor mounts that's all
Staying with SB is very smart idea ......................also.....On an externally balanced small-block Ford, both the flywheel/flexplate and the balancer must have the correct amount of imbalance for the particular crankshaft being used.
The greater reciprocating mass of the FE is there for a reason. My parents had a 64 with a 352...ran pretty good, my uncle had a 64 with a 289...it was a dog...but it was pretty...white with a blue interior. Uncle sold the 64..and got a 75 Torino Sport..351C...quite peppy.
dude..... Summit or Jegs...get a catalogue
i could teach you ho to do the rods and numbers, looks like someone botched the box of rods and taught they was all the same
This is an honest view of classic car ownership, lots of time and money, sometimes it feels like its not worth it until you take it out for a good cruise, then all is forgiving. It a galaxie i would want at least a 5.7 liter.
Why don't you just pull the rotating assembly out, clean it up/replace it, get a ball hone, hone the cylinders, then put it all back together? Just an idea to save money on machining.
Sometimes you’re the windshield so,writes you’re the bug. I went through this with a Saturn we but cost me a mint to get the clutch, etc... sorted., butt, in the end, we needed up with a good reliable car. Good luck on the build
A stroker 351w will give you the torque of a FE or BBF, and will fit perfectly. Other than a bigger radiator, it’s plug-n-play.
Bubble Icious bigger radiator? For what? If it’ll cool an fe motor it’ll cool a 351w
The Galaxie was meant to be a cruiser, not a hot rod---a small block is fine.
They put 427s in them. They were hot rods. And police interceptor 390s ran pretty well, too.
looks like this motor was put to gather with used parts from a few engines at least you will know whats been dun now sorry about the motor and the motor was thew together