This is why things that don't require the "engineering design process" (such as a square box with dividers) cost so much in the real world. The design and finished product look great!
@@KKSHS11 Right, this should have taken less than an hour. I built a nearly identical weight plate storage box six years ago without dovetails and it’s absolutely fine after almost daily use years later. As an actual licensed engineer who works with contractors... this is why people who work in construction are often skeptical of “engineers.” Engineers with real world common sense are extremely rare.
You are correct - butt joints with screws and glue will hold just fine. I’ve been meaning to redesign this caddy to make it easier to construct. A point to consider - not all of engineering is about function. I designed this with dovetails because I wanted to challenge myself, and I wanted to know that I went the extra mile to over build it, every time I look at it. To that extent, I’m completely satisfied and it was worth the time. It’s the adage “if it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing”. My wife gets a kick out of making fun of me for that too, when we work out together. Unfortunately, the dovetails weren’t as tight as I would have liked (thus the nails), but I’m better at them now lol. Maybe next time.
Really great video! I went through the same process that you described in the beginning. Currently on Background Research! ... BUT please think twice about cutting like that on a table saw at 4:09. Super dangerous and can cause a kick back even with the best intentions. Great video still!
Thanks! Yea, I’ve learned a few things since I published that video :/
Год назад+1
Good video. IMO over engineered, glue and screws will do the job. No jointers needed. I would even remove the bottom plywood, if the plates are floating, there’s no need for it.
I’ve got build plans available (link in the description) if you want to make them yourself! Having the measurements planned out really saves time in the shop. It’s the reason I transitioned from a notebook to SketchUp in the first place.
A dado joint is simply a slot cut into a board to allow another board to fit tightly into that slot. You can google image search "dado joint" and "dado dovetail joint" to get a better idea of what I'm trying to describe. The regular dado joint is easier to cut into the frame / side pieces because you can use a table saw vs a router. Furthermore, you won't have to cut anything into the cross member to get it to fit into a regular dado joint, where as you have to cut the dovetails into the cross member for a dado dovetail joint. The benefit to a dado dovetail joint is that is resists pulling apart and is very strong - it's just a lot of effort to make lol.
Yes, the use of dovetail joinery definitely complicated the build. My original design intention was to use the side frame pieces to support the bumper plates, as opposed to the bottom plywood. I thought that dropping a 45lb plate from any height over time would eventually break the bottom off the frame. Because bumper plates are all the same diameter, theoretically they could all contact both side frames at the same time they touch the bottom plywood - three points of simultaneous contact. Dovetails in the frame would be the best way to strengthen against lateral forces. However, my measurements were just a hair off (limitations of using SketchUp) and the plates only contact the bottom when lowered straight down. Oh well. However, after months of use, the worry that the bottom would break off the frame has been unfounded.
Do you think if I just screwed together the frame and then cut pieces for the middle and screwed them in each side it would work? Like without any joint action because I don't have that kind of knowledge or tools
Absolutely. I used dovetail joinery because I wanted to challenge myself, and I wanted to ensure it would last - I hadn’t built a bumper plate caddy before. Having used my two for over a year now, they don’t take that much lateral forces from the bumper plates, as long as there is a plywood bottom (the bumpers hit the plywood first). If you decide not to use a bottom (which is definitely an option) the sides of the frame will begin to support the bumpers, which will introduce a lateral stress/force. I still think glue and screws would be fine for this application as well.
@@EngineeringWorkshop_hvw nice! I'm thinking of slamming one out. I'd just try to use whatever wood I could find so I already know it's not going to be nice looking like yours 😆
Lol, both of them have the dovetail joinery!! It must be a bad/fast camera angle. I actually wish I would have made one of them with dado joinery so I could provide both options for the build plans.
Looking up the dimensions for the 45lb Olympic Iron plate yields a thickness of 1.25" and diameter of 17.72" - compare this to the 45lb Echo Bumper Plate of 2.4" thickness and 450mm / 17.71" diameter. The Echo plates are larger than the Olympic plates, so the smaller plates should fit in a larger slot. However, each plate (by weight) is a different size for each brand. Bumper plates are usually the same outside diameter and only vary in thickness (from 2.40" for the 45lbs to 0.83" for the 10lbs). It appears the Olympic plates are the opposite, the same thickness (1.25") but vary in outside diameter (17.72" for the 45lbs to 9.13" for the 10lbs) This storage solution was designed for plates with the same outside diameter and varying thicknesses, giving a 1/8" tolerance (or excess) for ease in lifting the plate in and out of the caddy. The exception being the 5lb and 2.5lb plate that fit in the front. There is ~0.25" tolerance for diameter as well - the plates can slightly roll back and forth between the two outside frame members.
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This is why things that don't require the "engineering design process" (such as a square box with dividers) cost so much in the real world. The design and finished product look great!
Nailed dovetails? Plus screws, it's over engineered, butt joins and glue would be half the time and cost and just as strong for the purpose
@@KKSHS11 Right, this should have taken less than an hour. I built a nearly identical weight plate storage box six years ago without dovetails and it’s absolutely fine after almost daily use years later.
As an actual licensed engineer who works with contractors... this is why people who work in construction are often skeptical of “engineers.” Engineers with real world common sense are extremely rare.
You are correct - butt joints with screws and glue will hold just fine. I’ve been meaning to redesign this caddy to make it easier to construct.
A point to consider - not all of engineering is about function. I designed this with dovetails because I wanted to challenge myself, and I wanted to know that I went the extra mile to over build it, every time I look at it. To that extent, I’m completely satisfied and it was worth the time. It’s the adage “if it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing”. My wife gets a kick out of making fun of me for that too, when we work out together.
Unfortunately, the dovetails weren’t as tight as I would have liked (thus the nails), but I’m better at them now lol. Maybe next time.
Mad props if this was actually homework for a class! Nice product!
Love this mate - been making my own using ideas from your designs (without the dovetailing!)
Really great video! I went through the same process that you described in the beginning. Currently on Background Research! ... BUT please think twice about cutting like that on a table saw at 4:09. Super dangerous and can cause a kick back even with the best intentions. Great video still!
Thanks! Yea, I’ve learned a few things since I published that video :/
Good video.
IMO over engineered, glue and screws will do the job. No jointers needed.
I would even remove the bottom plywood, if the plates are floating, there’s no need for it.
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
I’ve got build plans available (link in the description) if you want to make them yourself! Having the measurements planned out really saves time in the shop. It’s the reason I transitioned from a notebook to SketchUp in the first place.
Great video! I know nothing about carpentry or wood work, you mentioned the next time u build this u will use a a day do?
A dado joint is simply a slot cut into a board to allow another board to fit tightly into that slot. You can google image search "dado joint" and "dado dovetail joint" to get a better idea of what I'm trying to describe. The regular dado joint is easier to cut into the frame / side pieces because you can use a table saw vs a router. Furthermore, you won't have to cut anything into the cross member to get it to fit into a regular dado joint, where as you have to cut the dovetails into the cross member for a dado dovetail joint. The benefit to a dado dovetail joint is that is resists pulling apart and is very strong - it's just a lot of effort to make lol.
@@EngineeringWorkshop_hvw oh a dado not day do. Now I have something to google. I might have to out source this job since I don’t have any tools
Very nice 😎🤙✨
Way more complicated and over kill then needs to be
But good design
Yes, the use of dovetail joinery definitely complicated the build. My original design intention was to use the side frame pieces to support the bumper plates, as opposed to the bottom plywood. I thought that dropping a 45lb plate from any height over time would eventually break the bottom off the frame. Because bumper plates are all the same diameter, theoretically they could all contact both side frames at the same time they touch the bottom plywood - three points of simultaneous contact. Dovetails in the frame would be the best way to strengthen against lateral forces. However, my measurements were just a hair off (limitations of using SketchUp) and the plates only contact the bottom when lowered straight down. Oh well. However, after months of use, the worry that the bottom would break off the frame has been unfounded.
sounds like it needs a Rogue sticker on it then.
very nice and simple design. those casters look too small/weak though.
needs more clamps, and more titebond 3, but got damn those dovetails sir.
Do you think if I just screwed together the frame and then cut pieces for the middle and screwed them in each side it would work? Like without any joint action because I don't have that kind of knowledge or tools
Absolutely. I used dovetail joinery because I wanted to challenge myself, and I wanted to ensure it would last - I hadn’t built a bumper plate caddy before. Having used my two for over a year now, they don’t take that much lateral forces from the bumper plates, as long as there is a plywood bottom (the bumpers hit the plywood first). If you decide not to use a bottom (which is definitely an option) the sides of the frame will begin to support the bumpers, which will introduce a lateral stress/force. I still think glue and screws would be fine for this application as well.
@@EngineeringWorkshop_hvw nice! I'm thinking of slamming one out. I'd just try to use whatever wood I could find so I already know it's not going to be nice looking like yours 😆
7:49 WHERE IS THE FANCY dovetail JOInt???? I assume u only did them on the left side one???????
Lol, both of them have the dovetail joinery!! It must be a bad/fast camera angle. I actually wish I would have made one of them with dado joinery so I could provide both options for the build plans.
Nice idea, over executed
Does it work for iron Olympic plates?
Looking up the dimensions for the 45lb Olympic Iron plate yields a thickness of 1.25" and diameter of 17.72" - compare this to the 45lb Echo Bumper Plate of 2.4" thickness and 450mm / 17.71" diameter. The Echo plates are larger than the Olympic plates, so the smaller plates should fit in a larger slot.
However, each plate (by weight) is a different size for each brand. Bumper plates are usually the same outside diameter and only vary in thickness (from 2.40" for the 45lbs to 0.83" for the 10lbs). It appears the Olympic plates are the opposite, the same thickness (1.25") but vary in outside diameter (17.72" for the 45lbs to 9.13" for the 10lbs)
This storage solution was designed for plates with the same outside diameter and varying thicknesses, giving a 1/8" tolerance (or excess) for ease in lifting the plate in and out of the caddy. The exception being the 5lb and 2.5lb plate that fit in the front. There is ~0.25" tolerance for diameter as well - the plates can slightly roll back and forth between the two outside frame members.
Just made a DIY Rack Attached Storage Peg Vid, check it out!
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