cut out rot, replace with new wood. use a marine caulking on the edges. fiberglass over everything. fill with new pour foam. new deck in either plywood, coosa board or if you really want rot proof, aluminum.
Bass Cat service department is awesome. When I redid my P2 they were a great help. I also needed new windshields for mine. Called them to order and in 5 days had them on my doorstep. Great company.
Makes one want to get a bass cat just off that. Great job Rick Pierce! Great work on the boat. One task at a time. Just cut out the wood, replace it and glass over it.
I would chip away all the rot. Make sure all stringers are completely dried out. Then put some kind of water repellent sealant over all stringers. Then sister boards on both sides of the rot. Screwing in the new boards 4-6 inches past the rot on both sides. Ripping the whole inside cap out is just nonsense. Great videos brother
In all reality it’s not hard separating the cap from the hull and in doing so you’re actually able to repair stringers and deck , you’ll never dry out rotted wood so doing it how you say is pointless just do the work and don’t cut corners
@@DriveWayMafia if he exposes all the stringers in the cockpit. And there's little rot here and there that he can get to. All he would have to do is chip/cut the rot section away. Make sure it's dry then put a sealant around the cut off rot peices. Your right you cannot dry out rotten wood. That's why u remove it. Then sister boards in between them. Do it all the time in construction. Removing cap is just ridiculous
@@jheiny1231 this isn’t a house it’s a boat. I build / do custom and structural composite repair , your idea is pointless im sorry it is not fixing anything just covering it up with what sealant ? Lol
The way I have done repairs on small sections of stringers is to cut only the top of the stringer off, then use chisels, drill bits, or even a chainsaw to remove the rotten wood. After all of the rot is removed glass over the top of the stringer keeping the inside hollow. Next drill a small hole in the bottom of the hollow stringer and a hole in the top of the stringer. Next find an empty caulk tube, west marine sells them, and fill it with arjay 6011 composite transom compound. Pump the hollow stringer full starting in the bottom hole until it starts coming out of the top, kinda like how you fill the oil in a lower unit. I have done this on a few different ocassions and it turns out great. The stringer will be very solid and the stuff will bond to the existing wood so you do not have to worry about cuting a piece of wood and getting it to fit perfectly.
Leave the cap on. If it's next to impossible to remove, it's going even be worst to reinstall. Option one. Glad you finally got that seat pole out of the way.
Use a spade bit on a drill and drill a few holes from the top of the stringer where the rot is. The rotted wood will be like powder and use your drill to drill out the rotted wood and use a shop vac to clean out the loose rotted wood after that. Then once clean fill the clean void with something like seacast, arjay, or even a very dense expanding closed cell foam. Then glass over your holes you drilled and remove along. Then you’re not compromising the outer strength and form of the stringers.
This is great advice!! Another idea for the test holes: drop some epoxy down there for structure before glassing over. A bit overkill but with a JB Weld two part epoxy syringe it should be straightforward and not too much of a mess.
Cit out the bad part. Scab and support the repair. Cut out the front drain. Glass the stew out of the whole thing making sure to make a water tight channel from the front to the back so that 50 years from now this will no longer be an issue. You have the talent and skills to handle this. You are my Champion!
I have a 1990 ranger bass boat. Cut the rot out drop some wood and glass it in . Put marine grade plywood down on the floor and glass it in as well. Put some in some new carpet, seats , and gages . That boat will last another 25 years
Keep putting these videos out! They are awesome! I say option 1 and keep on keeping on! No reason to take a chance on ruining the boat by ripping it apart!
The outer stringers look solid. My concern is this. The stringers run the length of the boat. The boat sits bow up on the trailer. Meaning that the front of the boat sits higher than the back. Water seeping into the stringer is going to work it’s way backwards. It’s difficult, if not impossible to tell how far back it’s gone without pulling the cap. First thing I would do is drill a few test holes in the transom to make sure it’s not compromised. The holes are easy to fill in. If you find rot in the transom then it makes the decision whether or not to pull the cap easier. If no rot in the transom I would try to address without pulling the cap. It’s a lot of work most people will never finish.
I had a 95 Skeeter Fish N Ski that the floor rotted out on. I cut it out just like you did, I bought some treated 2x8 boards used rafter fasteners to connect new board to old board, scuffed the inside hull of the boat and fiber glassed all of it. I used untreated plywood as fiberglass does NOT like to stick to it. However, I did treat the underside of it not getting fiber glassed. Once I got all the glass down I wanted/needed, I belt sanded it with rough sand paper for the gel coat. Once the gel coat was applied, I used wax paper with overlap duct taped and put about 4' of water on top of it. This gives the coat a smooth surface and the pressure of the water keeps it sealed from air to cure better. I then got a color matched epoxy and put some traction sand in it and painted it. But yours is white, so you wouldn't need to paint it. Wish I could post pictures of it here.. I found you on FB and sent you an PM with the pictures..
Fix and glass the stringers, you do not want to try to pull the cap. Like you said, that boat is not built to take apart. Really like the series, keep up the good work!
Lots of good suggestions on here from people that know way more than I do. Seems like best bet is to get rid of all the rot, seal and brace it, fiberglass around it to reinforce, add foam and redeck it. If you take your time, remove the rot, seal and brace it properly--it should be fine for many many years to come, so long as you take care of it.
I just came across your restoration. Funny thing is I'm doing similar work on a 2000 Bass Cat Sabre. Keep the updates coming, and any questions. I know this will be helpful to me, and I'll send you any tips I come across too. Bass Cat has a lot of original parts still available and the parts department is a great resource. The owners forum is a great place to network and find parts too. Thanks
Cut the damage out replace it and glass it, just like the guy said. best way to do it and do it properly. Wish you best of luck and many successful trips in this boat. you'll love it when its done. Keep on keeping on brother
Taking the cap off is probably not an option. The front fishing deck and the areas in the rear outside the gas tanks are secured with a marine epoxy. The ares are filled with flotation and the top cap is VERY securely epoxies to those foam boxes. Not a job anyone would want to tackle.
Yeah cut it out and replace it. Fiberglass it back and you should be good. Even if you have to go a foot or so it would be better than trying to take off the cap. I bought a 1988 Bumble bee last year but got lucky as the floor and transom are solid. Plan to do some work to it this spring but mostly cosmetic stuff. Good luck with the build that will be an awesome boat when your done!
Where the rot is on the stringer you can just sister new stringers on both sides. Starting from a good section on each one spanning over the bad section and then on to another good section of the stringer. Then repeat on the other side. Is it ideal no but will it give you the stability you need? If done properly yes.
I'm in the middle of cutting out the full stringer system on my '98 HydraSports after I separated the top cap from the hull. Cutting through the fiberglass on the stringers has proven to be a slow and tedious job. Most of the wood was either gone or just crumbled in your hands. I'm loving finding videos of people going through what I'm doing. How do you like the feel of those new seats you bought? They look great.
My suggestion would be to remove rotted area, fill with treated wood if you plan to glass over stringers. Strength will come from the channel you created over the stringers. I would round over the edges of the stringers and use a glass cloth as first layer, then mat, then cloth again. I would use West Systems 105 epoxy and 206 hardener for longer open time, but cure is 24hrs and may settle during cure. You might want to choose a different hardener for your area though. The absolute key it the prep! Overlap to existing glass must be roughed up and clean/dry. 2 to 3 inch overlap should be sufficient as long as the prep is done well. If you do any cross bracing be very mindful of additional weight and maintain proper water drainage. Also keep in mind thickness while glassing, thickness over a 1/4 in can generate heat and enough to cause heat fractures in your freshly laid glass. I've always used acetone as a cleaner. BUT it is extremely FLAMMABLE AND TOXIC to breathe. Note. fiberglass resin will work as well, cheaper and more readily available, but I prefer additional properties of the West Systems product. Happy glassing.
I don’t understand why you wouldn’t just drill a few hole in the top of the stringers and fill them with penetrating epoxy. When ruff them up and add a layer of new glass over the top. If the top cap is glassed to the bottom it’s a one piece boat at this point and you don’t have to worry about it breaking. Just make sure you get it as dry as you can before you add the epoxy. I’ve used it on transom’s that where toast and it made them solid as a rock.
Definitely don't cut the cap off. You'll just end up with more damage due to how it's designed. Just cut out the rot. Sister the stringers or add support on both sides like you said and then glass it.
It's a great boat. If you try to take the cap it will never be the same again. Notch those stringers and glass . Add a deck glass and go. I get it.. my ocd screams rip it to the bones. But there is no need too.Don't make a 1500 dollar boat project into a 6000 dollar project. My 83 ranger had similar issues I notched ,glassed, decked, glassed.carpeted and have been a fishing fool since.
Bass Cat really is a great company to deal with and they build a great boat. You're gonna love how that Pantera handles. I liked a Mercury Trophy prop best on mine but they're a screamer with a Tempest.
Very good that's all the rot!! Sell the blue boat. Remove past the rot, get the tightest fitting board you can in place of your removal, both ends sealed exceptionally well with marine grade caulk/glue. DO NOT screw from current stringers into replacement boards at an angle. Like the Service Tech said, scab the joints with a board using all the marine grade caulk/glue you can, scab on the board with very course thread brass screws using your caulk/glue under the heads before full tight. Foam it, floor it, glass it, coat it. Get on the water.
Cut out the rotted parts of the stringer and replace with good wood. Be sure to use the right kind of epoxy to attach the new wood to the old wood. Then glass over the repair. This kind of repair is pretty common on sailboats. You might have better luck searching for sailboat repairs like this.
Just sandwich the bad area between two pieces of marine plywood cut to fit, overlapping a way into the good area and bolt it all together with long bolts, nuts, and large washers. Squeezing it all together tight with wrenches. Then seal it with fiberglass or something other kind of wood sealer for more water proofing.
Never thought about calling basscat but dang good idea. I've lready started on the back end of mine and pulled one fuel tank out...once you get the lines off, they come pretty easily
Do it no big deal. I'm restoring a 1978 Ranger bass boat right now. I'll have some footage coming out soon. Cut the fiberglass off on top of the stringers. You might be able to dig the rotten wood out and side a peice of wood in. That's what I did on one came out great. you can also screw some 1x5 on each side and fiberglass over all 3.
Bass cat makes a pretty dam tough boat and I’d say that the problem you have is minor. The transom and things like that would be worse Jordan and they actually do have a very solid transom check out their video on youtube
I’m pulling the cap off my stratos right now, cause I had the same problem. It’s not the easiest thing but it’s do able, gonna take a lot of work, there aren’t many videos about it either so you just gotta send it
The floor and stringers look solid, I would say that's normal wear and tear around the drain... you have removed far more floor than I would have. Just cut out the bad part and re-glass it.
Patch the rot, then get some plumbing pipe and some fittings and plumb the drain kind of like a shower so the water can’t drop back in the boat it would just go straight to the back
I had to do this to a sill plate on my house under my front door. It was a pain to remove the rotted wood but once out and squared up I cut a new piece and glued it in and then I actually put fiberglass resin over the area. I did that for water proofing and not strength. I know its not a boat but the wood doesn't have a clue if its on a house or in a boat so it doesn't matter. If you've never used resin and fiberglass get a bunch of cheap brushes and mixing cups from Dollar Tree. They work fine in the resin and once it cures that brush is trash.
Don’t use wood to replace it. Cut pieces of Divinycell H60 foam to fit, fill gaps with thickened epoxy, and glass over with 1708. Then paint the inside with a bilge rated paint to prevent any future problems.
@@TightlineTV it's usually really small, take a flashlight and you should see the marking.. also you could take it to a boat mechanic, they usually have a full set and can figure out which key it is..
I would not try to take the top off! You will fix this with the sullution provided by basscat! Im sure of it👍 On a sidenote, how long rods fits in the rodlocker? Im seriously considering importing one of those boats to Sweden. But it must be a dual console for the wife😜
Cut out the rot, fill that as well as scab the opposite side and glass the hell out of it. Given how solid the rest of it looks and how structurally sound bass cats are to start, I wouldn’t be too concerned.
Personally, I would see how much rot there actually is. And then see about fingering in a patch. If it only the top 2 inches, cut that out and put in a patch. And then fiberglass it all. Should be very solid. And clean the drain cavity out totally and make repairs to it as needed. Check it all the way back too.
I would NOT attempt to remove the cap! You will hate yourself! Cut,chip,chisel or chew the rot out. Sand and clean it up the best you can and then do a little more. Put 3 or more coats of glass over the repair and use biaxial cloth and tab it in really good. Love the project and keep up the good work!
Go forward cut the rot out of ya find more rot then of course cut all rot out But if it works as a small patch then I would definitely run hose line to your drain all the way back to the billage hense no more standing water good luck 👍
At the end of the day, you just need to make sure that spot is braced and waterproof. Doesn’t have to be pretty, and there is probably no right or wrong way to tackle it at this point. I’d say leave the cap on unless the transom is shot
Absolutely don not split the cap it isn't worth it. Replace and glass in your repair. It will be better than what you've got and will most likely last longer than you'll own the boat. Look at the age of the boat, and how small the rotting is now. You'll be fine.
I said keep going what you doing i mean it's the easiest way to do it and like the guy said on the phone it'll work just give it to her coats that's all s*** hold it but yeah that's my that's my opinion but if i had the boat that's what i would do i'll bass pro bowt kind of guy but i've never never had a bass cat before so but it looks it looks like it's a pretty good boat though i might try one day just to try something different. Good luck.
I am restoring a 1989 bascat pantera 2 and split the cap and hull and it is a lot of work. If you end up having to go that route hit me up I can help ya with what you will need and have to do.
I would cut and replace! Even if not perfect it will last a long time. Not even a debate to me. No reason a 90s models needs to be perfect, just usable and safe
cut out rot, replace with new wood. use a marine caulking on the edges. fiberglass over everything. fill with new pour foam. new deck in either plywood, coosa board or if you really want rot proof, aluminum.
Bass Cat service department is awesome. When I redid my P2 they were a great help. I also needed new windshields for mine. Called them to order and in 5 days had them on my doorstep. Great company.
Makes one want to get a bass cat just off that. Great job Rick Pierce!
Great work on the boat. One task at a time. Just cut out the wood, replace it and glass over it.
I freaking love this show
I love that you love this
I would chip away all the rot. Make sure all stringers are completely dried out. Then put some kind of water repellent sealant over all stringers. Then sister boards on both sides of the rot. Screwing in the new boards 4-6 inches past the rot on both sides. Ripping the whole inside cap out is just nonsense. Great videos brother
If you put water repellent on the wood your poly urethane or epoxy won't stick to the wood and will leave a void. Clean dry wood is best
In all reality it’s not hard separating the cap from the hull and in doing so you’re actually able to repair stringers and deck , you’ll never dry out rotted wood so doing it how you say is pointless just do the work and don’t cut corners
On a sea cat the cap is glassed to the hull so its a lot more work than most boats that are just fitted together. Its glassed in every locker
@@DriveWayMafia if he exposes all the stringers in the cockpit. And there's little rot here and there that he can get to. All he would have to do is chip/cut the rot section away. Make sure it's dry then put a sealant around the cut off rot peices. Your right you cannot dry out rotten wood. That's why u remove it. Then sister boards in between them. Do it all the time in construction. Removing cap is just ridiculous
@@jheiny1231 this isn’t a house it’s a boat. I build / do custom and structural composite repair , your idea is pointless im sorry it is not fixing anything just covering it up with what sealant ? Lol
The way I have done repairs on small sections of stringers is to cut only the top of the stringer off, then use chisels, drill bits, or even a chainsaw to remove the rotten wood. After all of the rot is removed glass over the top of the stringer keeping the inside hollow. Next drill a small hole in the bottom of the hollow stringer and a hole in the top of the stringer. Next find an empty caulk tube, west marine sells them, and fill it with arjay 6011 composite transom compound. Pump the hollow stringer full starting in the bottom hole until it starts coming out of the top, kinda like how you fill the oil in a lower unit. I have done this on a few different ocassions and it turns out great. The stringer will be very solid and the stuff will bond to the existing wood so you do not have to worry about cuting a piece of wood and getting it to fit perfectly.
Leave the cap on. If it's next to impossible to remove, it's going even be worst to reinstall. Option one. Glad you finally got that seat pole out of the way.
Use a spade bit on a drill and drill a few holes from the top of the stringer where the rot is. The rotted wood will be like powder and use your drill to drill out the rotted wood and use a shop vac to clean out the loose rotted wood after that. Then once clean fill the clean void with something like seacast, arjay, or even a very dense expanding closed cell foam. Then glass over your holes you drilled and remove along. Then you’re not compromising the outer strength and form of the stringers.
This is great advice!! Another idea for the test holes: drop some epoxy down there for structure before glassing over. A bit overkill but with a JB Weld two part epoxy syringe it should be straightforward and not too much of a mess.
Remove rot, sister galvanized place on both sides, glass over.
Attach wide flex hose to floor drain and run to transom ( keeps water out of bad area)
Yooo it’s sweet how the guys at bass cat could help you out like that.
SO SWEET bro
Cit out the bad part. Scab and support the repair. Cut out the front drain. Glass the stew out of the whole thing making sure to make a water tight channel from the front to the back so that 50 years from now this will no longer be an issue. You have the talent and skills to handle this. You are my Champion!
I have a 1990 ranger bass boat. Cut the rot out drop some wood and glass it in . Put marine grade plywood down on the floor and glass it in as well. Put some in some new carpet, seats , and gages . That boat will last another 25 years
How thick was the plywood you glassed for the floor? I'm getting ready to do My Old VIP.
Keep putting these videos out! They are awesome! I say option 1 and keep on keeping on! No reason to take a chance on ruining the boat by ripping it apart!
I'm glad to see that the pipe wrench work on getting the seat post out
There customer service is amazing
The outer stringers look solid. My concern is this. The stringers run the length of the boat. The boat sits bow up on the trailer. Meaning that the front of the boat sits higher than the back. Water seeping into the stringer is going to work it’s way backwards. It’s difficult, if not impossible to tell how far back it’s gone without pulling the cap. First thing I would do is drill a few test holes in the transom to make sure it’s not compromised. The holes are easy to fill in. If you find rot in the transom then it makes the decision whether or not to pull the cap easier. If no rot in the transom I would try to address without pulling the cap. It’s a lot of work most people will never finish.
Look up boatworks today. Andy is the best source of fiberglass repair you’ll ever find.
The series is amazing!
Easy repair. See West Systems. No affiliation, just a happy customer for 35 years.
I had a 95 Skeeter Fish N Ski that the floor rotted out on. I cut it out just like you did, I bought some treated 2x8 boards used rafter fasteners to connect new board to old board, scuffed the inside hull of the boat and fiber glassed all of it. I used untreated plywood as fiberglass does NOT like to stick to it. However, I did treat the underside of it not getting fiber glassed. Once I got all the glass down I wanted/needed, I belt sanded it with rough sand paper for the gel coat. Once the gel coat was applied, I used wax paper with overlap duct taped and put about 4' of water on top of it. This gives the coat a smooth surface and the pressure of the water keeps it sealed from air to cure better. I then got a color matched epoxy and put some traction sand in it and painted it. But yours is white, so you wouldn't need to paint it. Wish I could post pictures of it here.. I found you on FB and sent you an PM with the pictures..
Love the series buddy! I would start by just cutting the rotten section out and re glassing the stringers.
digging this series!!
Thanks!
Fix and glass the stringers, you do not want to try to pull the cap. Like you said, that boat is not built to take apart.
Really like the series, keep up the good work!
Lots of good suggestions on here from people that know way more than I do. Seems like best bet is to get rid of all the rot, seal and brace it, fiberglass around it to reinforce, add foam and redeck it. If you take your time, remove the rot, seal and brace it properly--it should be fine for many many years to come, so long as you take care of it.
I just came across your restoration. Funny thing is I'm doing similar work on a 2000 Bass Cat Sabre. Keep the updates coming, and any questions. I know this will be helpful to me, and I'll send you any tips I come across too. Bass Cat has a lot of original parts still available and the parts department is a great resource. The owners forum is a great place to network and find parts too. Thanks
Here for it!!!
Sheesh let’s go tightline uploaded let’s gooooo
Let’s goooooo
I am enjoying the series so far. I would do like most have suggested. Remove rot and replace. Then glass over it. Yes caution for delamination.
That’s why it’s worth rebuilding the Bass Cat and the Tidecraft needs to go. Just repair the stringers and put down a floor
Cut the damage out replace it and glass it, just like the guy said. best way to do it and do it properly. Wish you best of luck and many successful trips in this boat. you'll love it when its done. Keep on keeping on brother
Taking the cap off is probably not an option. The front fishing deck and the areas in the rear outside the gas tanks are secured with a marine epoxy. The ares are filled with flotation and the top cap is VERY securely epoxies to those foam boxes. Not a job anyone would want to tackle.
Yeah cut it out and replace it. Fiberglass it back and you should be good. Even if you have to go a foot or so it would be better than trying to take off the cap. I bought a 1988 Bumble bee last year but got lucky as the floor and transom are solid. Plan to do some work to it this spring but mostly cosmetic stuff. Good luck with the build that will be an awesome boat when your done!
Where the rot is on the stringer you can just sister new stringers on both sides. Starting from a good section on each one spanning over the bad section and then on to another good section of the stringer. Then repeat on the other side. Is it ideal no but will it give you the stability you need? If done properly yes.
I'm in the middle of cutting out the full stringer system on my '98 HydraSports after I separated the top cap from the hull. Cutting through the fiberglass on the stringers has proven to be a slow and tedious job. Most of the wood was either gone or just crumbled in your hands. I'm loving finding videos of people going through what I'm doing. How do you like the feel of those new seats you bought? They look great.
My suggestion would be to remove rotted area, fill with treated wood if you plan to glass over stringers. Strength will come from the channel you created over the stringers. I would round over the edges of the stringers and use a glass cloth as first layer, then mat, then cloth again. I would use West Systems 105 epoxy and 206 hardener for longer open time, but cure is 24hrs and may settle during cure. You might want to choose a different hardener for your area though. The absolute key it the prep! Overlap to existing glass must be roughed up and clean/dry. 2 to 3 inch overlap should be sufficient as long as the prep is done well. If you do any cross bracing be very mindful of additional weight and maintain proper water drainage. Also keep in mind thickness while glassing, thickness over a 1/4 in can generate heat and enough to cause heat fractures in your freshly laid glass. I've always used acetone as a cleaner. BUT it is extremely FLAMMABLE AND TOXIC to breathe. Note. fiberglass resin will work as well, cheaper and more readily available, but I prefer additional properties of the West Systems product. Happy glassing.
I don’t understand why you wouldn’t just drill a few hole in the top of the stringers and fill them with penetrating epoxy. When ruff them up and add a layer of new glass over the top. If the top cap is glassed to the bottom it’s a one piece boat at this point and you don’t have to worry about it breaking. Just make sure you get it as dry as you can before you add the epoxy. I’ve used it on transom’s that where toast and it made them solid as a rock.
yeah BassCat support is awesome
Definitely don't cut the cap off. You'll just end up with more damage due to how it's designed. Just cut out the rot. Sister the stringers or add support on both sides like you said and then glass it.
MArk actually fixed the stringers on his old skeeter if you need any info he would be glad to help you out! Keep it up man
There is no way I would take the cap off. Cut, replace, fill....
Sick! Just got a 12 foot Jon boat from the 60s and I’m gonna restore it
Do it!! I love my 1955 jon boat
It's a great boat. If you try to take the cap it will never be the same again. Notch those stringers and glass . Add a deck glass and go. I get it.. my ocd screams rip it to the bones. But there is no need too.Don't make a 1500 dollar boat project into a 6000 dollar project. My 83 ranger had similar issues I notched ,glassed, decked, glassed.carpeted and have been a fishing fool since.
Heard! Appreciate it
Scab onto it on either side of the rotted wood fiberglass over or re foam and your gravy let her rip
Bass Cat really is a great company to deal with and they build a great boat. You're gonna love how that Pantera handles. I liked a Mercury Trophy prop best on mine but they're a screamer with a Tempest.
I’m ready to get it on the water! Haha
Hell yeah bass cat for the win. This is why they are a top notch company.
Basscat boats has the best customer service in the boat industry second to none hands down
Ive taken off a cap on a bass boat. dot do it. it will never be happy again
Very good that's all the rot!! Sell the blue boat.
Remove past the rot, get the tightest fitting board you can in place of your removal, both ends sealed exceptionally well with marine grade caulk/glue. DO NOT screw from current stringers into replacement boards at an angle. Like the Service Tech said, scab the joints with a board using all the marine grade caulk/glue you can, scab on the board with very course thread brass screws using your caulk/glue under the heads before full tight.
Foam it, floor it, glass it, coat it. Get on the water.
Cut out the rotted parts of the stringer and replace with good wood. Be sure to use the right kind of epoxy to attach the new wood to the old wood. Then glass over the repair. This kind of repair is pretty common on sailboats. You might have better luck searching for sailboat repairs like this.
Just sandwich the bad area between two pieces of marine plywood cut to fit, overlapping a way into the good area and bolt it all together with long bolts, nuts, and large washers. Squeezing it all together tight with wrenches. Then seal it with fiberglass or something other kind of wood sealer for more water proofing.
Never thought about calling basscat but dang good idea. I've lready started on the back end of mine and pulled one fuel tank out...once you get the lines off, they come pretty easily
Do it no big deal. I'm restoring a 1978 Ranger bass boat right now. I'll have some footage coming out soon. Cut the fiberglass off on top of the stringers. You might be able to dig the rotten wood out and side a peice of wood in. That's what I did on one came out great. you can also screw some 1x5 on each side and fiberglass over all 3.
Why open a bigger can of worms taking the cap off? Just cut out the rot and replace!
I'd do the first cut bad out fiberglass it up and it should be good fiberglass adds extra strength I'd say it be good
Option 1 for sure. Removing the cap is next to impossible to get it right after it’s off.
I have a 1990 nitro 185TF with a similar issue I’ll have to replace the floor on too
Bass cat makes a pretty dam tough boat and I’d say that the problem you have is minor. The transom and things like that would be worse Jordan and they actually do have a very solid transom check out their video on youtube
Option 1 for sure no need to take the cap off just replace, reglass it, refloor it, and them fishing baby !!!
I’m pulling the cap off my stratos right now, cause I had the same problem. It’s not the easiest thing but it’s do able, gonna take a lot of work, there aren’t many videos about it either so you just gotta send it
Keep moving forward
I just bought a 1986 bass cat pantera. I have called bass cat myself and they have been great.
The floor and stringers look solid, I would say that's normal wear and tear around the drain... you have removed far more floor than I would have. Just cut out the bad part and re-glass it.
I am assuming you’d fiberglass the replacement wood pieces.
Patch the rot, then get some plumbing pipe and some fittings and plumb the drain kind of like a shower so the water can’t drop back in the boat it would just go straight to the back
I’d do what the service man said do n let it ride
May try some git-rot epoxi repair.
I had to do this to a sill plate on my house under my front door. It was a pain to remove the rotted wood but once out and squared up I cut a new piece and glued it in and then I actually put fiberglass resin over the area. I did that for water proofing and not strength. I know its not a boat but the wood doesn't have a clue if its on a house or in a boat so it doesn't matter.
If you've never used resin and fiberglass get a bunch of cheap brushes and mixing cups from Dollar Tree. They work fine in the resin and once it cures that brush is trash.
Fix it!
JUST CUT OUT THE ROT I WOULDNT TRY TO TAKE THE CAP OFF GETTING INTO A REAL CAN OF WORMS THERE IF YOU ASK ME
Team Bass Cat. I need your help. Option 1 or option 2? THE BASS CAT WILL LIVE!
Option 1
Option 1
Don’t use wood to replace it. Cut pieces of Divinycell H60 foam to fit, fill gaps with thickened epoxy, and glass over with 1708. Then paint the inside with a bilge rated paint to prevent any future problems.
No brainier option 1
Option 1. You’re a bass fisherman and young which means you’ll have about 10 more boats after this one.
Galvanized plates
send it but Joe said what I would do
LOJO just replaced the stringers on his boat the other day! Check his channel out
The easy fix will be more than sufficient!
fix the area, it's not that bad. re-glass it and continue 😊
FYI, you can usually buy replacement keys instead of replacing the ignition. The key number should be on ignition. Ebay sells standard Evinrude keys..
I tried no dice :/
@@TightlineTV it's usually really small, take a flashlight and you should see the marking.. also you could take it to a boat mechanic, they usually have a full set and can figure out which key it is..
I would not try to take the top off! You will fix this with the sullution provided by basscat! Im sure of it👍
On a sidenote, how long rods fits in the rodlocker?
Im seriously considering importing one of those boats to Sweden.
But it must be a dual console for the wife😜
My vote would be to do what you can with the stringers
I would do what most everyone is saying about the repair, but would add a 3" PVC flex pipe to chanel the water to the back of the boat.
Option #1 Just repair the stringers
Do what you can with the problem. Cut out rot , repair, go fish
Just reapir the rotten parts simple easy and effective and will be as strong or stronger
cut the rot out like 3/4 add ply and glass it all
Cut out the rot, fill that as well as scab the opposite side and glass the hell out of it. Given how solid the rest of it looks and how structurally sound bass cats are to start, I wouldn’t be too concerned.
Good luck
Go with option 1
Personally, I would see how much rot there actually is. And then see about fingering in a patch. If it only the top 2 inches, cut that out and put in a patch. And then fiberglass it all. Should be very solid. And clean the drain cavity out totally and make repairs to it as needed. Check it all the way back too.
I think you know your answer. Don’t make it difficult. Lol
lol put the 159 on the tidecraft and lets go fishing and try another day on the basscat
I would NOT attempt to remove the cap! You will hate yourself! Cut,chip,chisel or chew the rot out. Sand and clean it up the best you can and then do a little more. Put 3 or more coats of glass over the repair and use biaxial cloth and tab it in really good. Love the project and keep up the good work!
🔥🔥🔥
Unless this is your forever boat, do not split it. Dry It, Notch It, Glass It and Fish It.
Go forward cut the rot out of ya find more rot then of course cut all rot out But if it works as a small patch then I would definitely run hose line to your drain all the way back to the billage hense no more standing water good luck 👍
At the end of the day, you just need to make sure that spot is braced and waterproof. Doesn’t have to be pretty, and there is probably no right or wrong way to tackle it at this point. I’d say leave the cap on unless the transom is shot
Absolutely don not split the cap it isn't worth it. Replace and glass in your repair. It will be better than what you've got and will most likely last longer than you'll own the boat. Look at the age of the boat, and how small the rotting is now. You'll be fine.
Easy call. Remove the damaged part and proceed with the repairs.
I said keep going what you doing i mean it's the easiest way to do it and like the guy said on the phone it'll work just give it to her coats that's all s*** hold it but yeah that's my that's my opinion but if i had the boat that's what i would do i'll bass pro bowt kind of guy but i've never never had a bass cat before so but it looks it looks like it's a pretty good boat though i might try one day just to try something different. Good luck.
I just fiber glass over it and fiber glass over that fiber glass until its hard as a rock
I am restoring a 1989 bascat pantera 2 and split the cap and hull and it is a lot of work. If you end up having to go that route hit me up I can help ya with what you will need and have to do.
Send me some pics on Instagram!!
I would cut and replace! Even if not perfect it will last a long time. Not even a debate to me. No reason a 90s models needs to be perfect, just usable and safe
Just replace the wood around the drain and call it a day!