I watched your other video, about leveling the bed by adjusting the Z axis worm gear connection. But based on this video, I designed and printed a pair of snap-on jigs for the Adv4. ruclips.net/video/iQX2112NiFU/видео.html Here's the STL file for my jig (download from Windows OneDrive using any browser, print two): 1drv.ms/u/s!Arf1YeMUEh5Gm7Rt_8Mw0vnugbkWbQ?e=IDfHc4 These snap on to the 2 Z axis gantry rods, as shown in the video. The left side is definitely lower than the right. Very obvious with my jigs attached. I was just about to figure out the easiest way to get the screws out of that worm gear connector, then saw this video. This product on Amazon seems to be metalic tape with Adhesive. Do you think this would work? I like the adhesive idea, so things don't move or slide around. www.amazon.com/dp/B097HHJQPS/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_171?pd_rd_plhdr=t&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVjhCR1BUMzNUNkwwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODA5MzE5VEExM1hSMVJORldCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MDQ4MTQxMkpEQjdUMzJKVVdOJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c2Rfb25zaXRlX2Rlc2t0b3AmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1 I can't believe 9pt calibration takes the Average... this means each of us must go though the exact same Leveling Ordeal you are experiencing. Thanks for everything so far! - Don
@@dondec I think that metalic copper tape could work to help you level your bed rather than trying to take apart your printer and adjusting the gears from up top. I have yet to do that and am still using the shims. Seems like now only my left side is wildly off from the rest of the bed. Note that adjusting the brass nut on the leadscrew only allows increments of around 0.75mm (assuming a 3mm pitch screw from what I measured) which is almost 3 layer heights. But if you use the tape on the bed instead, that would work. One thing to note about the tape is that if you ever plan to take it off, you might be left with some nasty residue. I'll have to try out your snap-on jig!
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Really appreciate what you've done, this sort of research is hard to find. I have an engineering background too, though mine is software/firmware dev in the telephony industry (AT&T, Bell Labs, Lucent, Avaya, Verizon Wireless), now retired. As a sw developer I was really shocked to learn they average the 9pts, because that's "so not me"... haha. I would have automatically designed mesh leveling into the firmware. Since they didn't, I have to believe this is some sort of marketing strategy for later products. Anyway, getting back to the brass nut/leadscrew discussion, I may only need 1/4 turn to get close enough, then shim out the fine details with some sort of tape. My biggest concern is dropping the screws, and "seeing" back there. I was told I can take the whole top off by undoing 4 screws. That may simplify things. I'll mess with that tomorrow.
Yeh I got the same instructions from support about undoing the 4 screws and the top should come off. That levelling method to me seems like it will produce the best results. Along the way, I’ll probably learn a few more things as well! Funny enough, I am in the middle of a transition from hardware engineering to software right now :)
I don't own an adventurer 3d printer, but UBL is what saved me hours of fail printings and recalibration. Just let ubl do the leveling and store 1 mesh per each material (abs, pla and petg), proper z-offset and inicial gcode to load the saved mesh before each printing. G29 L1 to load the mesh and G29 J to adjust it before the print starts. I haven't touched the knobs of my printers bed for months since this. My next step is to try the solid mounts instead of the springs. Great video, love your work and tinkering on things.
Thanks, I was just going crazy trying to level Adventurer 3 pro bed. No matter what values i set in the 9 point calibrations, the print/bed is always tilted one way. This helps.
I've reverse engineered Adventurer 4 firmware code and it does contain the 9 Point Calibration calibration code. They have the code which preprocesses the gcode lines before sending the gcode for execution. 9 Point Calibration calibration code works the following way: it spits the coordinates into 4 quadrants and uses the calibration points as vertices of these quadrants. So when gcode line is analyzed it determines at which quadrant the extrusion is going to happen. Then it uses these vertices offsets to adjust the head position at this gcode line using the mean value of Z offsets for this specific quadrant. Apparently such methon won't work if the head needs to travel more than one quadrant while extruding a long line. But in most cases it works. So you can't say that it's total scam. And yes, if you switch to "expert mode", you just use a single offset value for the whole plane
I managed to level the bed on my adventurer 4 using brass shim between the aluminum build plate and the linear bearing underneath it. It took a 0.05mm packer under the left front and 0.25 under the right back. The variation in height across the bed has dropped from 0.4 mm ( intolerable when printing large objects ) to 0.15 which is not good but is usable. I was worried I would be introducing load on the rails under the bed but this does not appear to be a problem. We could probably get it closer, but I figured I would stop while I was ahead.
Great video! I have 4 of these in my classroom. I have one that runs near perfectly. Then I have two that no matter how I calibrate it to stick the first layer prints to far down and is difficult to get the part to release without damaging the build plate. The last one boggle my mind, I can get a perfect print but the next couple won’t even stick to the bed. Wish I knew this before I made my switch from the Axioms to the Flashforges.
Great video! I wonder if you can unscrew the build plate and add washers to give it a lift? I haven't looked at how the screws come off but just an idea I have?
There is a way to level the leadscrews which I will be attempting. Adding washers to the bed is not ideal and those would need to sit on top of the linear guiderails
flashforge is careening downhill, they're also calling this a "lower end printer" its 800 bucks, and 800 dollar printer should have decent calibration. I actually stopped selling these because of this principle. Between that and the internal problems they're having they've gone from a company that I used to love to a company I"m embarrassed by.
Prusa cost around 800 USD, Ender 3 V2 with BL-Touch (Original), Ender 5 Plus, Prusa mini+ etc... Has bed level calibration the right way when they are talking about 9 point leveling. FlashForge is a joke.
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 When watching your videos, it feels more like you want to buy an Creality printer. Its a tinker machine that can be modified for all your needs, Direct Drive, BL-Touch, Own firmware, New LCD, Octoprint, Klipper, New screen etc... It would be cool to see you go from like an Ender 5 Plus to a maxed out modded Ender 5 Plus, or an Creality Ender 3 V2! GL & HF
@@NotDoingThisToday Could you give me advice about what you think is the best printer for a beginner? Price range is anything under $1000. Edit: I would love to have something that is easy to use.
what you understand about 9 point calibration is the real calibration which you can find on Prusa. so I wonder why you pay 1199 on this printer but not Prusa MK3S+...
I definitely could have but initially The flashforge adventurer 4 just looked better with the full enclosure and 9 point levelling which now I found out was a bit of a scam. A part of me also doesn’t like the idea how a printed that uses 3D printed parts is that expensive
![The secret to 3D printing PETG [Adventurer 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqwWs6xCnvQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![The secret to 3D printing PETG [Adventurer 4]](/img/tr.png)
Did you experience something similar with your flashforge adventurer 4?
Yeah. Leveling the Z-axis solved a bunch but my right side of the bed still prints too high, so might put some tape/shims there.
I watched your other video, about leveling the bed by adjusting the Z axis worm gear connection.
But based on this video, I designed and printed a pair of snap-on jigs for the Adv4.
ruclips.net/video/iQX2112NiFU/видео.html
Here's the STL file for my jig (download from Windows OneDrive using any browser, print two):
1drv.ms/u/s!Arf1YeMUEh5Gm7Rt_8Mw0vnugbkWbQ?e=IDfHc4
These snap on to the 2 Z axis gantry rods, as shown in the video. The left side is definitely lower than the right. Very obvious with my jigs attached.
I was just about to figure out the easiest way to get the screws out of that worm gear connector, then saw this video. This product on Amazon seems to be metalic tape with Adhesive. Do you think this would work? I like the adhesive idea, so things don't move or slide around.
www.amazon.com/dp/B097HHJQPS/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_171?pd_rd_plhdr=t&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVjhCR1BUMzNUNkwwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODA5MzE5VEExM1hSMVJORldCJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MDQ4MTQxMkpEQjdUMzJKVVdOJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c2Rfb25zaXRlX2Rlc2t0b3AmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1
I can't believe 9pt calibration takes the Average... this means each of us must go though the exact same Leveling Ordeal you are experiencing. Thanks for everything so far! - Don
@@dondec I think that metalic copper tape could work to help you level your bed rather than trying to take apart your printer and adjusting the gears from up top. I have yet to do that and am still using the shims. Seems like now only my left side is wildly off from the rest of the bed.
Note that adjusting the brass nut on the leadscrew only allows increments of around 0.75mm (assuming a 3mm pitch screw from what I measured) which is almost 3 layer heights. But if you use the tape on the bed instead, that would work. One thing to note about the tape is that if you ever plan to take it off, you might be left with some nasty residue.
I'll have to try out your snap-on jig!
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Really appreciate what you've done, this sort of research is hard to find. I have an engineering background too, though mine is software/firmware dev in the telephony industry (AT&T, Bell Labs, Lucent, Avaya, Verizon Wireless), now retired. As a sw developer I was really shocked to learn they average the 9pts, because that's "so not me"... haha. I would have automatically designed mesh leveling into the firmware. Since they didn't, I have to believe this is some sort of marketing strategy for later products. Anyway, getting back to the brass nut/leadscrew discussion, I may only need 1/4 turn to get close enough, then shim out the fine details with some sort of tape. My biggest concern is dropping the screws, and "seeing" back there. I was told I can take the whole top off by undoing 4 screws. That may simplify things. I'll mess with that tomorrow.
Yeh I got the same instructions from support about undoing the 4 screws and the top should come off. That levelling method to me seems like it will produce the best results. Along the way, I’ll probably learn a few more things as well!
Funny enough, I am in the middle of a transition from hardware engineering to software right now :)
I don't own an adventurer 3d printer, but UBL is what saved me hours of fail printings and recalibration. Just let ubl do the leveling and store 1 mesh per each material (abs, pla and petg), proper z-offset and inicial gcode to load the saved mesh before each printing. G29 L1 to load the mesh and G29 J to adjust it before the print starts.
I haven't touched the knobs of my printers bed for months since this. My next step is to try the solid mounts instead of the springs.
Great video, love your work and tinkering on things.
Thanks, I was just going crazy trying to level Adventurer 3 pro bed. No matter what values i set in the 9 point calibrations, the print/bed is always tilted one way. This helps.
Thanks for making great Adventurer 4 content ! I love mine! Also, cute cat 🐈!
I've reverse engineered Adventurer 4 firmware code and it does contain the 9 Point Calibration calibration code. They have the code which preprocesses the gcode lines before sending the gcode for execution. 9 Point Calibration calibration code works the following way: it spits the coordinates into 4 quadrants and uses the calibration points as vertices of these quadrants. So when gcode line is analyzed it determines at which quadrant the extrusion is going to happen. Then it uses these vertices offsets to adjust the head position at this gcode line using the mean value of Z offsets for this specific quadrant. Apparently such methon won't work if the head needs to travel more than one quadrant while extruding a long line. But in most cases it works. So you can't say that it's total scam.
And yes, if you switch to "expert mode", you just use a single offset value for the whole plane
Hi! Can you link to the print bed you're using?
I managed to level the bed on my adventurer 4 using brass shim between the aluminum build plate and the linear bearing underneath it. It took a 0.05mm packer under the left front and 0.25 under the right back. The variation in height across the bed has dropped from 0.4 mm ( intolerable when printing large objects ) to 0.15 which is not good but is usable. I was worried I would be introducing load on the rails under the bed but this does not appear to be a problem. We could probably get it closer, but I figured I would stop while I was ahead.
thanks for this, I thought i was going mad when my new printer failed to level, the y-axis is off flat relative to the gantry by about 1-2 layers
Thank you for this video!
Has this happened anymore since then? Did it stay level this whole time?
Great video!
I have 4 of these in my classroom. I have one that runs near perfectly.
Then I have two that no matter how I calibrate it to stick the first layer prints to far down and is difficult to get the part to release without damaging the build plate.
The last one boggle my mind, I can get a perfect print but the next couple won’t even stick to the bed.
Wish I knew this before I made my switch from the Axioms to the Flashforges.
The bed is indeed flexible... you remove it with the print and can bend it in all directions to loosen the print a little.
Great video! I wonder if you can unscrew the build plate and add washers to give it a lift? I haven't looked at how the screws come off but just an idea I have?
There is a way to level the leadscrews which I will be attempting. Adding washers to the bed is not ideal and those would need to sit on top of the linear guiderails
I don’t buy the excuse for not having proper compensation on the z and only going for the mean, you get it on printers that are cheaper than the adv4!
I totally agree! In a way, I feel lied to when they advertised 9 point calibration. But what can we really do...
flashforge is careening downhill, they're also calling this a "lower end printer" its 800 bucks, and 800 dollar printer should have decent calibration. I actually stopped selling these because of this principle. Between that and the internal problems they're having they've gone from a company that I used to love to a company I"m embarrassed by.
Prusa cost around 800 USD, Ender 3 V2 with BL-Touch (Original), Ender 5 Plus, Prusa mini+ etc... Has bed level calibration the right way when they are talking about 9 point leveling. FlashForge is a joke.
Yeh, sadly it’s past my return period
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 When watching your videos, it feels more like you want to buy an Creality printer. Its a tinker machine that can be modified for all your needs, Direct Drive, BL-Touch, Own firmware, New LCD, Octoprint, Klipper, New screen etc...
It would be cool to see you go from like an Ender 5 Plus to a maxed out modded Ender 5 Plus, or an Creality Ender 3 V2!
GL & HF
@@NotDoingThisToday Could you give me advice about what you think is the best printer for a beginner? Price range is anything under $1000.
Edit: I would love to have something that is easy to use.
what you understand about 9 point calibration is the real calibration which you can find on Prusa. so I wonder why you pay 1199 on this printer but not Prusa MK3S+...
I definitely could have but initially The flashforge adventurer 4 just looked better with the full enclosure and 9 point levelling which now I found out was a bit of a scam. A part of me also doesn’t like the idea how a printed that uses 3D printed parts is that expensive
U lost me at the shim sizes and how that changes anything I'm so lost