5 Tips for Building a Durable Deck
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- amzn.to/2LAJzG2 Joist Tape in Video 3" wide
amzn.to/2PHJWCh Another Joist Tape we use often (4" wide)
amzn.to/2MT3KE9 Spacer for Rim Joist
If you framed your deck using these tips you’ll get many decades of live from that structure! Big thanks to my local deck supplier TimberTown and YellaWood for sponsoring today’s video.
www.timbertown...
www.yellawood.c...
I'm definitely favoriting this video. I've seen soooo many decks that after just 4-5 years are already in need of some TLC.
Thanks for watching! Best, Matt
How to rack walls on a house
give a guy a hammer....
That's why it's Green looking!
Soaking the end of post in "end sealer" solution is new tip to me. I like it!!! Thanks for sharing.
I'm surprised he did not do such on all the lumber that is exposed to being wet. I do and never ever have any issues. The time to do it is before the wood is fastened up. Minimal cost (Relative)
Victor Eous, So I can wrap my head around this, are you saying you would put "end sealer" on the end of every board in the deck? I could see where that could be a wise suggestion.
You can also buy green treatment (a wood preservative) that does this as well. I treat all the ends, even the decking. Soaking is best; brushing requires two or three coats.
Every cut end, yes. Although I don't soak it, I just put it on with a foam brush, though the stuff I used wasn't white - it looks more like coffee. I put it on every cut - including stair stringers, blocking, joists, beams, ledgers, etc.
Yes Mark. . . . As others above have mentioned. On posts I set them in solution overnight, all other ends/cuts get a foam brush hit twice. Better safe than sorry. I really do want the customer happy and tell them of the extra steps we take in getting it right for them. As a result we've not advertised for about 20 years.
I did not know about copper in treatment and the joist tape. Learned something today. Thanks,
Thanks Joe! Always appreciate your comments buddy!
Great job. Years ago I had my local aluminum guy make me caps for the top of my deck joists. 2" X 1 5/8" X 2". I held them in place with a couple of galvanized roofing nails until the deck boards were installed. 35 years later and no signs of water damage. The other idea I had was to apply an aluminum "L" shape fascia piece on the backside of the ledger board against the wall side. It provides a continuous cap and moisture protection when affixing it to the wall. I finish it with a silicone bead where the aluminum meets the wall. Again, 35 years later and the ledger board has no sign of any type of water damage.
What about breathability under deck? No issues against ledger board.
I have been doing the joist tape for year using ice and water menbrane, I always get good complements from the inspectors .I like your method
Does the sunlight create any kind of damage to it?
Like the idea of the spacers. Worked homeowner claims for 30 years. Literally saw hundreds of rotted ledger board which in turn rot out the sills. Nice job.
Some of the nicest clean built decking I've seen 👍
Matt, you should do a video comparing the different types of pressure treated material.
Great job on that deck. It was a good bit of extra work but it looks like it got hammered out with ease. Appreciate the tips
How awesome. I am literally starting my deck framing for my dream home after Labor Day. 12” OC and joist tape will definitely be on mine! Thanks, Matt!!!
Great work, that deck is going to last a lifetime!
That’s a mighty fine looking deck!
Replacing my rotted siding and ledger board now. The idiot that built the deck nailed the ledger board to the house and never flashed or anything. These are all great tips that I plan to follow. Especially the Deck to Wall 5/8” ledger spacers.
Great video. That some heavy and expensive framing. What a solid deck. I'd love to see it 100% complete.
Coming soon!
I had to rebuild a section of my deck a couple weeks ago. When I saw this video pop up I was like, "Oh no, what am I going to regret that I did or didn't do"
I actually did all these things. Thank you so much for your videos.
I don't know if this knowledge was from other videos I've seen of yours or if you've just taught this guy to fish. I do know I was thinking moisture control first.
Thanks and keep them coming!
Great building RUclips channel that I pass on to family and friends!
Thanks for your show Matt and thanks for the research you do on best products and practices
Breathing protection probably good when cutting and making dust with high copper content, I've seen a lot of folks no being careful when removing antifouling bottom paint off boats on other social media feeds
Matt...beautiful project!
I've been watching several videos related to how built a deck , and you put all of them in one great video , nice job CAMO ( from old house great school) also one guy use deck spacers for the ledger
I like how at 6:15 you said its a little bit optional talking about the tape, while showing joist hangers without the nails being driven all the way.
As a drafter I'm taking your tips and running with it for all future projects that I do
Thanks Man, that's really a high compliment! Matt
Going 12" oc is so little extra money to have a deck with no bounce. Most decks you are talking 3 extra joists. Glad to see you show the joist tape in higher rain and snow conditions this is another inexpensive product with longevity. I have seen pressure treated framing rot in 2 years using above grade contact. I would only frame a deck with a ground contact product.
If it's composite deck boards you'll need it
it's one extra board for every 4 feet of deck.
it depends on the width of the board. It's better to have 2x10 16OC than 2x8s 12"OC ... way stronger the first one.
I live in upstate RAIN DOOM AND GLOOM New York, and I built a pressure treated 12x20 deck with 4x4's planted into the ground at the frost line (almost 3 feet deep) with 2x8 pressure treated joists 1 foot off the ground with pres treated 1x6x12 deck boards and they were NAILED with twist nails treated 2" and guess what? 34 years later, outside of normal fading to gray.....the deck looks like the day it was built. Not one board had to be replaced, no sagging, had enormously huge phat.....aunts and uncles all over it over the years, no "edge taping sealing", not extra treating over the years of the deck boards, no railings warping or getting loose, stairs look the day they went in. Nothing. Plain, old fashioned carpentry. OH, and 16" on center joists. No special "Yellawood" sold here or back then. Just...whatever Lowes was selling. Go figure.
chivone21 that’s how I build shit these guys building decks like this now days are paying way to much money for materials no one can afford this shit for high end inspections
The pressure treated wood you used 34 years ago is not the same that we use now. It was better back then. In 2004 the EPA banned the chemicals used to treat the old wood which is why these newer decks rot faster. Also, Yellawood is not some new company - they have been in the pressure treated business since the 70's.
That a really nice change of pace on the insulation show
Stay tuned for a framing walk through on Friday!
In my opinion azek makes one of the best deck products I’ve ever seen
Would have loved to see that space under the deck made usable. Imagine a sloped pavement, LED lighting from the stone to deck joint seam, a couple of beanbags, a small spiral stair on the side of the deck from above to down below, and a bottle of wine overlooking that view.
But at the very least, make it look attractive from the water.
Is it sad that I watch this channel sooo much...that I already knew all of this?
Thanks for the info video. I live in NC and on the process of replacing my house 2x 10 outer band and even replacing the second inner 2x10 in some area ! My deck is 12x60 ft long 🙁 they rotted from the ledger board flashing
I think of all the decks I've f'd up over the years lol. I've never used joist tape and I work in Seattle! Yikes!!! Although rot only occurs if it dries out so since it's always rainy I might be okay
I frame my decks differently but I like that you're oversizing and underspacing the joists. I also like that you're using ground contact lumber. Rated and unrated has been on shelves for years and nobody knew it. This may be changing since this video was produced. Nice hustle man. And, get 10 deck builders in a room and you'll get 15-ways to build a deck, some claiming joist tape is necessary and others not. Probably a number of variables go into this. Where I build, I add it to any deck I resurface.
Those are some SOLID tips
You kill me Risinger. Lol "Onnnnn! The Build Show!" Lol Great video. Thank you for the input! Would not have thought to put the spacers between the ledger and deck frame so that wood can air out. That definitely makes sense.
He's like a 12 year old when he says that and its getting really old!!
How come you didn’t install a flashing over top of the ledger board to prevent water from getting in there in the first place?
TSizzle; I agree..Also, the picture of the “ledger board” is shown going in backwards. Should always be “bark side up” so the board curves toward the home-structure. Same for band boards, deck boards. Look at the end grain and imagine the board coming from a tree..It’s easy to see which way the board will cup over time ;-) I’ve seen way too many failures because people don’t know..
Dude, you were awesome in Hi-de-hi! And you developed an American accent... and moved to America... and got younger.
Worst timing ever... just yesterday I finished extending my current 6x24 deck out to 18x24. Now Matt tells me how I should have done it 😭. If only this video had dropped last week...
The good news, the first 3 of the 5 tips I did anyway, and while I agree in theory with putting peel and stick on top of the joists I think it’s probably overkill (the existing 6x24 deck I built in 1988 without any joist protection and it’s still in excellent shape) and while 12” centers may be needed for Trex-like products, I’m using real wood decking and 30 years experience shows that 16” centers are fine in this application. Not saying that either tip is a bad idea, just that I’m ok with the fact that I didn’t do it.
The more I think about it, I suspect I *will* use joist protection if I ever build another deck...
John Early from my past 40 years experience in deck framing and tearout John is that if your deck is one that is in an area where water escapes quickly and your not in s rainforest type of environment meaning your not like my buddies deck on his cabin I just rebuilt that is in the Appalachian Mountains under a large canopy of mountains and it rains nearly ever day and it is literally a rain forest. In that application, following all of Matt’s recommendations really makes sense. But if your building a deck outside of San Antonio Texas and there is no tree cover close by and you only get 12” of rain a year then it’s not going to be as critical that all steps are followed so it sounds like your gonna be fine brother. You have the experience and knowledge to build a sound structure but it is nice to have Matt in our corner because he constantly makes us think and he brings awareness to new products that may take us another 3 years to hear about from our local lumberyards. I wish he would have been doing this 20 years ago but I, like you, always overbuild and go to the extreme and my projects still stand tall!!
Keep driving those nails john and thank you Matt for all the awesome info each week, homeowners all over the country are benefiting vastly because of you Matt, thank you!!!
16" centers feels bouncy with most decking products if you weigh over 180lbs. It's safe, nothing wrong structurally, but if you want a firm feel when walking, especially with guests, I'd recommend 12"
That also depends on what kind of post spacing you've got. Posts more closely spaced means 16" OC is firm as a rock.
My deck uses joists on 16" with Timbertech composite and it has a *tiny* amount of bounce, but it's only noticeable to me because I built it. Everyone who comes over thinks its rock solid. If you're using solid wood, you're absolutely fine. The issue comes if someone wants to run diagonally - then 12" OC is needed.
@@burtosis it also depends on what type of 2x lumber are you using for joists. 2x10 spaced 16OC is way stronger than 2x8s 12"OC
Beautiful deck and I love the view from it, but isn't there any code regulation for a safety railing, due to the height of the deck above the ground?
I’m sure they are gonna add railing next, that is way to high not to.
Code says you have to add railing to any deck that stands more than 30 inches high. Railing is done last, so I am sure they did it but just didn't show it on the video.
You can treat wood as much as you want it still will rot away in the end. Had it with my deck which became a death trap before I rebuilt it. Used recycled plastic wool and composit decking material. Seen plenty backyard fixes with wood on TV. Want to see what they look like in 5 years. Guaranteed not the same.
Great tips and great work with the video! Very well explained.
Actually, I can think of one reason why it might not necessarily be a good idea to use the more heavily copper impregnated, ground- contact lumber for all parts of a deck. I suspect that the ground-contact Lumber , with more than double the copper content, might be more corrosive and likely to interact with the Fasteners used. It might be best to use stainless fasteners everywhere if the entire deck is built of ground- contact rated, pressure-treated lumber. I foresee a problem with that approach as well, which is that your Simpson Strong-Tie joist hangers and other similar joist hangers for building decks are made of galvanized steel, so now you've got stainless Fasteners being used on galvanized steel joist hangers with heavily copper impregnated decking. Especially in a damp climate, this could be quite a recipe for hastening galvanic corrosion and leading to eventual structural weakening.
Thanks for the video.. learn something here, moisture and protecting.
Matt, I have important questions for you that are on my mind. Firstly, thanks for the tutorial
You provided a couple great tips which I hadn't known about. As the son of a mechanical engineer and myself a micro-mechanical engineer (virtually the same principles) I'd always been a builder and would just for educational purposes and fun would often bat the ball back and forth with my dad about all kinds of builds.
However, again I have a question for you, a specialist in the field and not some know-it-all weekend warriors, whom I'm sure will feel compelled to weigh in on nonetheless.
My question for you Matt, and for Matt alone, revolves around that I have never believed in the wisdom of tying in a deck into the inner beams of a house where you can't see the nature of how they're holding up over the many years lifetime of a properly, well built tie-in deck. Where I live there are indigenous aggressive termites well known about by the home builders before they built but not by me since I came from another town. However, here you put the deck tie-ins into the admittedly robust walls of a swimming pool on a hill. Beside what little that we could see of the exterior of the bolts what type of terminal ends were anchored into the side of the swimming pool walls, was the bolting system made of a non-rusting material, how deep did they go in and what do you think of the wisdom of putting stress concentrating points in a vital pool wall which previously was uniform (as much as it can be) in a swimming pool where each gallon of water weighs about 8 pounds. The weight of the water and the pull on the wall of the deck represent quite a bit of potential energy. If the deck should be used for purposes unplanned for, eg. too many people crowding on it, their jumping up and down such as at a fourth of July display (yes, I've seen this filmed and the deck collapsing) and or the owners (or next owners if sold) deciding to build on it, eg. a stone hearth or cooking grill, etc.will all the tie-ins embedded hold up against that degree of extra pull and especially not combine with the weight of the water at new stress concentrating points? Beside the loss of aesthetics, would you not do better by adding vertical 6x6 inch supports next to the pool and possibly adding some under deck cross bracing between 6x6's proximal to one another? If you don't have time to answer all these questions, I'd very much appreciate knowing the mechanics of the bolt tie-ins to the pool wall and if they're not merely galvanized but rust proof. Also, how would you calculate the number of tie-in bolts needed?
I'd greatly appreciate it if you could shine some light on the parts of the build which you didn't cover in your otherwise very good presentation. Thanks!
Most of the weight would be down wards , so it's more a question of sheer strength of the fasteners. Wall looks pretty thick, and would have re-bar/ trimmer bars.
🤦🏻♂️ 😆
Marvelous video! Thanks man
I’ve actually used roofing tar on my post and painted on heavily and then let it set up on it so that it’s almost dry then I put it in the hole And poured concrete around it and made sure that the concrete was below the top of the roof and Tara my posts and that’s given me over 20 years of life already counting what are your thoughts on that if you ever seen it?
Easy to tips and tricks etc etc That’s a great tip. I always do that to. Submerged posts have WAY less flex than than using those post stirrups
Good show
Kooshy job. Bet the carpenters are digging it
I dont agree with spacing your deck ledger board 1" off the the house (of what ever structure you are attaching the deck to) this puts all the stress on your bolts. In this case you used all threads which are not as strong sheer value. If you flash and seal the ledger to your structure properly and water/vapor barrier the building being attached to, then you will never have to worry about water getting in there. The bolts are designed to hold the desk from falling outwards not vertically. You should be using a 16D or greater nail or equivalent deck screw (concrete all threads in your case here) to secure it vertically to the structure.
Willis Cooper gotta love forti flash 😂👍👍
Also wondering up north in the winter where areas get freeze thaw freeze winters. Water gets behind there, doesnt drain, freezes and expands. Realize in Texas thats probably not an issue, but alos shows there is more than one correct way to build adeck
Willis Cooper P totally agree. The pressure of the ledger against the structure its connected too helps distribute the weight and a lil construction adhesive helps too... As long as you putthe flashing in rite with a lil clear silicone..... Its the best method by far
I was thinking the same thing. Even 1/8" of spacing puts added torque on the hardware.
The epoxy holding those bolts has me a little concerned. I would still probably bolt from the ledger thru into the structure.
Willis Cooper the sheer strength of the fasteners is much greater than any live or dead loads that be applied. I’ve built decks for 20 years and this is the only way I prefer to build my decks as well. I have pulled MANY decks from homes where the flashing was correctly placed but the ledger board and the band joist had retained water in between them. No one ever thinks that ground water can cause damage but it can. It just takes longer.
This is a very good job!
Matt, I am building a second floor deck and want dry space underneath without doing a under deck solution. Do you have a video for insulation. Thanx
Thanks great info. You verified a few things for me. 👍
Thanks for the helpful video! It is my understanding that stainless steel washers on galvanised bolts will cause some pretty nasty galvanic corrosion, and rust stains. Why not just use galvanised washers?
The chemicals and or salts from the pool will splash over the edge onto the galvanized hangers and bolts and cause them to deteriorate pretty quickly. They definitely will not last the 30-40 years you claim.
This is a very important point that really needs addressing.I have seen many near pool structures affected by corrosion that have obviously been built to normal standards with no thought given to the corrosive environment.
huh, never been in a salty pool before
Ryan Mader You’ve never been in a salty pool before? I’m not sure what that even means? You’ve never heard of them? Where I’m from salt pools & chlorine pools are 50/50. And yes, this guy should absolutely not have used gal hardware near a pool environment.
@doc hall you got that right! the guy who builds the thing is the most important engineer of all, because he's the last guy that makes the final decision on the specific material and hardware before its permanent, if you want shit done properly, do it yourself.
They should have all been STAINLESS
Wow! Great video. Thanks Ull use yr tips
Love your Deck tips!
spacers is a grat idea
Matt, I noticed the finished deck board layout is picture framed and has a mid span design to it... was this design driven or product driven? I seem to have noticed more builders doing this with composite decking due to the inherent movement.
Another great video.
butt joints on decks is ugly.... hence the picture frame.
also with new deck products coming in only a couple length options the picture frame reduces waste
Thanks ...Matt???
I think the viewpoint on but joints are relative.
Not Matt but but joints never ever ever ever line up in at least one plane. If nothing else I think it looks like a custom job, not we used cut off and scabbed it together even if it is top of the line work.
Haha. If the cut ends never line up wouldn’t that mean the material itself is irregular in widths?
@@scottbledsoe6918 not at all. It could be as simple as you tighten one side a little more than. The other or that joist underneath has developed a bow or one of the boards are longer so expand at different rates or one side is in the sun........
I think mostly I just don't like but joints. Anytime I see one I say to myself to bad they didn't plan that better. My personal pet peeve is siding with a vertical board every so often. Just looks cheep to my eye.
I hope the future vids show RAILING installed.......😱
Coming soon!
@@buildshow I'm in the biz too Matt. I was really just pulling your chain. But, on the serious side of safety, I did notice your guys not wearing harnesses walking the joists. I know, I know, we all do it but the way things are today, and you being a pretty bigtimer, some jackass could use that against you. I'd really hate that, I like what you do.
+Tim Pace Seriously? I was more concerned that the guys didn't have kneepads. Hard on your knees, and more importantly your pants!
@@walterbrunswick Ha! True!
@@timpace9777 you've never worked a day in your life timmy, harnesses and ropes are useless and make the jobsite 10x more dangerous, if you don't have the balance to walk the joists you simply should be no where near a jobsite, i'm a construction worker and foreman myself, and you my friend need to stay the fuck away from any jobsite if that's your legitimate complaint.
I’d love to see some fence tips. How would you set posts if not the standard hole with concrete? I’m debating between doing a fairly large fence by myself or paying for some of the work.
See my reply just above your comment on Robert Stark for some information
I hope you address stringer split. Every deck stair I see have the stringers split where to treads are screwed on typically splitting down to the riser portion. I suppose you could use end grain sealer on both cuts as well as joist tape under the tread. Anything else to keep the stringers/treads solid?
Have done a video on building decks using pedestal systems like Eurotech or Bison?
in a 6 x 8 shed will the doors open wide enough for a riding lawnmower?
Cmon man! the boards didn't even line up in the end! But I guess that the video was about building a durable deck, the structural aspects were brilliant. Even better to protect the ledger board would be to use DPC with stainless staples on the concrete face.
Great video! Thanks for all the tips.
Nice, clean workmanship. But did you use deck hold downs, or a deck tension device? Or do the steel post columns mitigate the possibility of the deck pulling away from the structure?
Do you have any tips for not being on the "fix " the build crew, where someone took it to gaptown....
GREAT episode!
Matt, what do you think about 2x6’s for decking boards vs. regular decking boards... Obviously, if they can afford the composite, that’s the ultimate better way to do it...
I really like a 2x6 Cedar or Redwood deck. Fells and looks awesome. Some of the composite decks feel fake to me.
How long have they been making this copper impregnated Wood? And I’m assuming this is safer and less harmful than the green board?
I just joined your community I’m new here I have a how to channel with a variety...
Tell me how it is a galvanized nails interact with the copper? Or screws for that matter do you know?
Look forward to hearing from you keep up the great work this is good information and something I haven’t heard it from till now bye for now God bless Ken.
Hello Matt.
I'm watching this lovely video over and over and I'm wondering what is the space between the concrete to the deck posts? 10feet 12 feet?
What your opinion about it? What will be the maximum space you're recommend? You know. .with 2×8 for stacking of course. .
Thanks
What materials did you use for that invisible rail? 100% air or is it a mixture?
the homeowners probably already fell off....
@2:44 except building codes (IRC & DCA6) do not allow for brick like that to carry any load except for the weight of the bricks above it.
Great deck tips, but is there a security fence for the deck?
Have you ever put stone or tile on the surface of a deck with a water proofing material under the tile over plywood?
Ditra system
Hey Matt! Love your content, thanks for sharing. We moved into a home in the Wimberley area and have a second floor deck with suspect framing. Do you have any recommendations for a local company that services Hill Country to inspect and reinforce a second-floor deck with a primary focus on safety and sound construction principles?
Question, When using 12" on center spacing do your carpenters use a track saw to make sure the joist don't have to high of crowns causing uneven floor decking.
Point of contact on wall.
Even though you have 3 ss washers crud will buildup in space.
You did not mention if rods embedded were ss !? Also I noted someone put quarter round trim on bottom to finish appearance... That will not aid any drainage there.......
paul dow rods looked like hot dipped G
They’re definitely gal. All that work and used gal hardware. Gal’s worst enemy is pool water.
I have to say that I don't care for the idea of hidden decking screws, underneath the lip of each decking plank. I'd rather have them visible in slightly countersunk, so that I have a shot at unscrewing a plank that becomes damaged with exposure to the elements. It would also be nice to see if anyone has done a comparison of coated decking screws to stainless screws, to see which one holds up better, or if the coated decking screws are any good at all for the long-term.
In nz we would use stainless steel everywhere for that deck it close to ocean and will get wet from pool water with its chemicals.. really like the joist tape would a dpc plastic stapled on do the same? Thinkn cost 👍 nice tips cheers
Yeah I'm building a deck right now in Dunedin, NZ. Was thinking to use DPC plastic on the joists, its a bit foreign for builders here to do that on a deck. Maybe our weather isn't rainy/consistenly damp enough to warrant it. Only difference I can see between DPC plastic and the decking/flashing tape is that if you make a penetration (i.e. nail/screw) the tape will seal up against the screw, whereas the DPC might just split a bit and let water sit between the joist and bottom of DPC... Where are you building in NZ?
Others have pointed out that he should have used SS because of pool chemicals, but rest assured...Matt's working in the Austin, TX area. That "ocean" is Lake Travis. Not salt water. :)
I noticed you used joist hangers on the end of the deck. Is it not better to have them sit on top of the end beam?
Would you recommend just using posts instead of attaching a deck to a house? I am thinking for sealing a house about not attaching it to the house and just use the posts and footers. Any thoughts?
Good info! Keep it coming! Thumbs up!
Great video!!! But seriously!!!!watch 4:00 to 4:30 with the sound off!!!😂😂 Nice Deck!
Guy found fancy ways to charge his customer an extra $12,000. I approve 👌
in new york, its code to put the post into the concrete in the ground...
When attaching a ledger to a house, if you use flashing over it should you still use a spacer?
Do you use NADRA certified contactors for your deck builds? The statistics on injury and death from deck, porch and railing collapse is staggering.
I sort of like the plastic deck boards. No need to re stain, paolint, sand etc
I noticed the use of the Camo screws. Do you recommend this as a hidden fastener installation? I've used them on a couple of projects, and I'm happy with the look.
Reminder to self: "When cutting lumber 'always' use eye protection gear." Likewise for fall protection. Thank you for the inspiration to be safe.
Matt, can you please add the link for those spacers you mentioned?
Sorry. Links in Description now.
ynpmoose home cheepo 😂
Matt Risinger sorry matt..Greay work tho thank you!
What’s that tool ur worker used to keep screws firmly still while drilling it in?
camo
If using the dry decking material for a under the deck dry install how do you keep the water from getting behind the ledger board?
That's a good little drop off the deck i would have put a rail
Would some of these tips work with making a patio cover? I want to lay down concrete and those lifted mounts on those concrete post make me rethink my layout.
great quality.
Since you mentioned fence posts, what is your recommended installation method there to extend life?
What about fall protection? Guard rails and FAS for workers.
Allen Stein At what point would you put guard rails up for workers? I think with the pool next to them, each worker should have a scuba mask and oxygen tank just in case they were to fall in 😉
PFD would work
Hey Matt I'm in the south getting my clay tile roof redone, do I have any options for ventilating the attic? It would either be mb a whirlybird in the time or a vent on the north wall. The other 3 walls are brick and there's no soffits.
What about a vapor barrier under the deck if its close to the ground?
Whats the name of the tool you use to secure the deck boards on a 45 degree angle on the sides?