I myself have worked with and alongside the "fast" builders and often they have to double back and fix stuff all the time . I couldn't agree more with this comment . I say to guys I'm teaching do it right always speed comes later .
I saw one example of the joists laid out flat on the ground as a grid in this vid. That's how I've always done it, peg your joists down flat so you can hang piles 100 off the hole bottom and it gives you heaps of places to brace from, works of surprisingly sloped sites too. Oh, and use your 75mm gold lumberlok screws to fix it all together then reuse in the build, they don't get clogged with concrete. Wellinton builders have dug deeper holes and carried more bags of concrete around than most builders from anywhere else.
The other fundamental reason for 100mm concrete under the pile is to limit decay of the pile from soil contact. Embedding in concrete make a huge difference, which you really see when removing old H4 fence or retaining posts. Wherever there is direct soil contact is where you see decay of the timber.
@@TheStrathmoreChannelYes that’s where they rot worst and fail. Invariably because the concrete hasn’t been poured right to the surface, usually for aesthetic reasons. But it happens too at the base, and right down the post when they’ve been installed hard against one side of the hole where it’s not actually in concrete. I pull a lot of old posts with landscaping redos. If you’re talking fence, retaining or other posts, vertical load is far less important if at all. With a pile, rot or softening at the bearing end cannot be good.
Great video! As a keen DIY guy I've made some really dumb mistakes with foundations. I can't agree more that if you get those right then the rest is much easier!
All the fences, decks and floors I do I use 6 inch galv nails 4 of per post into concrete. Got taught by an old school builder. Cheap reinforcement that works.
One thing councils like to pick up is the dimension out of the ground is from Cleared Ground Level (CGL) NOT Natural Ground level (NGL) or Finished Ground Level (FGL), an important point when you have a large layer of top soil as it needs to be removed first or if you have got any back fill the height is taken from the bottom of the fill. As outlined in the definitions of 3604 and section 6.4.1.1 (b)
It's not always essential to remove topsoil, (or soft shallow soil) just to ignore it.. Ie. For ordinary piles, just make them deeper. Anchor piles must be embedded in 900mm of good ground... And "cleared ground level" taken as the bottom of the rubbish. (So by the time you've got more than a couple of hundred mm of topsoil, you start running out of room below your joists. Same applies to braced piles, but you quickly end up with the braces too close to the ground, so it all ends up with the engineers... Driven cantilever piles are great on dodgey sites, but need good plant and good operators to keep them straight.
9:25 looked like the posts are cut very low, min 150mm above ground level for any cuts or penetrations (e.g . holes for bolts) was my understanding. 6" bearers on top and joists fixed between bearers gives you the 300mm deck height.
Really helpful, and couldn't come at a better time for me.. one question of course - you mentioned trimming the piles to height? I thought i would somehow need to get them all level using a plumb or similar? Thanks..
Very informative. We are planning to build an 11.5m tall structure, that only has a footprint of 25 sqm. We will need 9 piles, but those piles will need to be driven or drilled to a depth of 10m. We are about to embark on the engineering stage, so we are not sure how much structural steel we will need? We have very soft land and the hardpan is 10m down. Have you ever worked on a building with these extreme parameters?
H4 timber treatment is for ground contact while H5 is superior with a higher level of treatment for the marine environment or areas of high moisture content. You can use H4 in most ground contact areas but H5 is more expensive.
H4 is pretty much just a landscaping timber treatment. NZ building code requires min 50 year durability for structural elements, and H4 is only about 15 years in ground contact
@@wekavpossumTis true. Ensuring H4 posts are fully set in concrete including right to surface level makes a big difference to their lifespan. Ditto isolating retaining timber from direct soil and moisture as much as possible with drainage, polythene or polystyrene. You see the remarkable differences when removing 10, 20, 30 year old constructions.
Answer me this question and I’ll subscribe as a thank you. I’m going to be building a deck over Christmas. It is going to be going over an old section of concrete driveway. Driveway is in sound condition. Do I need to cut the concrete out of my driveway to dig a hole for a pile? Or is there a way to use some sort of metal fasteners/brackets and bolt them to the existing concrete? Deck is going to be no higher than 400mm.
Bolt to concrete mate, wether its small posts then bearers or bearers straight on concrete with spacers, depending on finished height. Never cut through concrete to dig a post hole.
Josh, what are your thoughts on screw piles? I've seen a bunch of North American videos that used them and I know they're available in NZ (though I believe they're a little pricey).
Never bothered with bracing all the piles up, as it wastes timber and creates a maze to try and barrow through. Just use low slump concrete or put it in the hole, leave it a bit then push the pile in using the string line as a guide, then level up, while checking back to the line. Leave them long and trim to height using a laser level.
Concrete piles are an option in the building code he referred to with the diagrams but the relative price of timber here in NZ plus the ease and versatility of handling and fixing to the floor structure make them an uncommon choice for new builds. They are however used a lot for repiling of old houses.
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"Slow is smooth and smooth is fast" such a good line mate 👌
I myself have worked with and alongside the "fast" builders and often they have to double back and fix stuff all the time . I couldn't agree more with this comment . I say to guys I'm teaching do it right always speed comes later .
Great Video! Just finished building a deck with my Dad. Fantastic fun. great tips, looking forward to the next video
Really good video Josh - Hopefully you continue this series through from foundation to finishing touches. Will be a good series.
Love the content Josh you’re representing Nz builders well and providing great educational content.
Keep up the good work!
SO MUCH stuff I didn't know. I'm ******* glad I watch this first!!!
I saw one example of the joists laid out flat on the ground as a grid in this vid. That's how I've always done it, peg your joists down flat so you can hang piles 100 off the hole bottom and it gives you heaps of places to brace from, works of surprisingly sloped sites too. Oh, and use your 75mm gold lumberlok screws to fix it all together then reuse in the build, they don't get clogged with concrete. Wellinton builders have dug deeper holes and carried more bags of concrete around than most builders from anywhere else.
Well done, good job with the video - and surprisingly timely, LoL.
The other fundamental reason for 100mm concrete under the pile is to limit decay of the pile from soil contact. Embedding in concrete make a huge difference, which you really see when removing old H4 fence or retaining posts. Wherever there is direct soil contact is where you see decay of the timber.
In my experience fence posts usually rot just below ground level where air and water both affect the wood. The bottom of the post is OK.
@@TheStrathmoreChannelYes that’s where they rot worst and fail. Invariably because the concrete hasn’t been poured right to the surface, usually for aesthetic reasons. But it happens too at the base, and right down the post when they’ve been installed hard against one side of the hole where it’s not actually in concrete. I pull a lot of old posts with landscaping redos.
If you’re talking fence, retaining or other posts, vertical load is far less important if at all. With a pile, rot or softening at the bearing end cannot be good.
Great video! As a keen DIY guy I've made some really dumb mistakes with foundations. I can't agree more that if you get those right then the rest is much easier!
Love ya work, great to have a better understanding of building in Aotearoa!!
I always thought SED was Specific Engineering Design, learnt something and I'm only a minute in - thanks!
It is also that ;)
It is both. SED is only small end diameter in relation to poles.
In all other situations on drawings, SED is as you say, special engineered design.
All the fences, decks and floors I do I use 6 inch galv nails 4 of per post into concrete. Got taught by an old school builder. Cheap reinforcement that works.
One thing councils like to pick up is the dimension out of the ground is from Cleared Ground Level (CGL) NOT Natural Ground level (NGL) or Finished Ground Level (FGL), an important point when you have a large layer of top soil as it needs to be removed first or if you have got any back fill the height is taken from the bottom of the fill. As outlined in the definitions of 3604 and section 6.4.1.1 (b)
It's not always essential to remove topsoil, (or soft shallow soil) just to ignore it.. Ie. For ordinary piles, just make them deeper. Anchor piles must be embedded in 900mm of good ground... And "cleared ground level" taken as the bottom of the rubbish. (So by the time you've got more than a couple of hundred mm of topsoil, you start running out of room below your joists. Same applies to braced piles, but you quickly end up with the braces too close to the ground, so it all ends up with the engineers... Driven cantilever piles are great on dodgey sites, but need good plant and good operators to keep them straight.
Love the video, Hope you do a whole series from foundations to finished house. Can you include points where council inspections happen too? 👍
awesome josh, going thru my 2nd year apprentiship at the moment
Great video mate, great to know when I start to build my deck
Good info Josh Thanks for Posting love your videos
Excellent content, thanks!
Very educational, thanks
Josh you rock man. TU.
9:25 looked like the posts are cut very low, min 150mm above ground level for any cuts or penetrations (e.g . holes for bolts) was my understanding.
6" bearers on top and joists fixed between bearers gives you the 300mm deck height.
Really helpful, and couldn't come at a better time for me.. one question of course - you mentioned trimming the piles to height? I thought i would somehow need to get them all level using a plumb or similar? Thanks..
I used to draw little decks on high school desks all the time
Very informative. We are planning to build an 11.5m tall structure, that only has a footprint of 25 sqm. We will need 9 piles, but those piles will need to be driven or drilled to a depth of 10m. We are about to embark on the engineering stage, so we are not sure how much structural steel we will need? We have very soft land and the hardpan is 10m down. Have you ever worked on a building with these extreme parameters?
great video thanks!
Great video! How did you make it with the standards highlighted?
H4 timber treatment is for ground contact while H5 is superior with a higher level of treatment for the marine environment or areas of high moisture content. You can use H4 in most ground contact areas but H5 is more expensive.
If you're building to 3604 all timber piles have to be H5. It's about durability and lifespan. Marine piles need to be H6.
H4 is pretty much just a landscaping timber treatment. NZ building code requires min 50 year durability for structural elements, and H4 is only about 15 years in ground contact
@@wekavpossumTis true. Ensuring H4 posts are fully set in concrete including right to surface level makes a big difference to their lifespan. Ditto isolating retaining timber from direct soil and moisture as much as possible with drainage, polythene or polystyrene. You see the remarkable differences when removing 10, 20, 30 year old constructions.
Great video thanks - what do you use to backfill the ordinary piles once in place - the original soil?
Thanks !
Answer me this question and I’ll subscribe as a thank you.
I’m going to be building a deck over Christmas. It is going to be going over an old section of concrete driveway. Driveway is in sound condition. Do I need to cut the concrete out of my driveway to dig a hole for a pile? Or is there a way to use some sort of metal fasteners/brackets and bolt them to the existing concrete?
Deck is going to be no higher than 400mm.
Bolt to concrete mate, wether its small posts then bearers or bearers straight on concrete with spacers, depending on finished height. Never cut through concrete to dig a post hole.
@@shaunray6660yeah I thought it didn’t make sense to cut it out just to add it in again.
Josh, what are your thoughts on screw piles? I've seen a bunch of North American videos that used them and I know they're available in NZ (though I believe they're a little pricey).
Hey mate, have you ever built entire external walls and stood them with all the RAB shot down and taped? Why don’t we do that in NZ?
have you considered using helical screw piles?
Never bothered with bracing all the piles up, as it wastes timber and creates a maze to try and barrow through. Just use low slump concrete or put it in the hole, leave it a bit then push the pile in using the string line as a guide, then level up, while checking back to the line. Leave them long and trim to height using a laser level.
Any chance on a Bathroom creation video ? we are very limited of instructional videos for the NZ market.
Cheers
I remember my first time trying to say diameter too
hahaha I heard it too... die-a-meter
Do u use concrete stumps
Concrete piles are an option in the building code he referred to with the diagrams but the relative price of timber here in NZ plus the ease and versatility of handling and fixing to the floor structure make them an uncommon choice for new builds. They are however used a lot for repiling of old houses.
Driven piles are by far the best for bad soil. No fussy concrete and multiple wasted steps.
No suitable for everything off course.
wish I had seen this before I built my deck....
GET AN ENGINEER ...FOR A DECK?? What... for an Aircraft Carrier "DECK"? Dick!
New Zealand beating Australia at another thing 😂
We're really trying to beat them on costs-to-build but no matter how much build prices increase here the damn Aussie tradies keep 2 paces ahead!!
Those Aussie Deck ads are the best lol