Thanks, that was very helpful. I would like to use the Ikea butcher block and your comments on water based polyE and ongoing care have reassured me. Also - I now need to see how you installed it, after you mentioned your trick! Super helpful. Thanks again.
Thanks for your video. You seemed to read my mind with the concerns I was having. This is the second time I've used Ikea bb. First time was the really dense, very think beech colored onces from years ago. They were tough as nails. Now I've bought the Karlby walnut stained Ikea wood and particle board combination. I was worried that the darker stain would show water marks etc. Now I can be confident in doing the polyurethane stain and not worry about it again. I will make sure to have the sink top mounted and as far back as possible from the front edge. My friend who works at Ikea says to never miter the edges but to butt-mount them only. I love the warmth and feel of wood and it's a very old Mennonite look that reminds me of my upbringing. Take care and good work. Your kitchen is to be envied.
Yes, I really miss the old wood counters from Ikea! Our bathroom (a kid's bath at that) counter looked as good as the day we installed it 6 years previously when we sold. Our kitchen counters looked good, but there were slight buckles in places near the stove (heat maybe?). I still love a good wood counter. :)
Sorry you got that out of the video, as that's not what we were trying to say. We repaired them once in the 4 years we had them, the only warp was from installation, we had no staining, and the only maintenance was keeping them clean and dry (which is what I'd hope most kitchens would be).
YES! FINALLY PEOPLE THAT GET IT ! Don't pay any attention to any of the negative comments. You've made the right choice, and applied the right finish. I've watched a lot of these videos on people oiling , and ouling and oiling and oiling. 500 gallons of oil later and 8 years later they are still oiling lol These are people that do not pay attention. Cutting boards are always used to prepare food, so urethane is the wise choice. This is the main reason why most suggest oil.....I don't know anyone that directly prepares food on any type of counter. Always a cutting board. *** The people that oil their wood counters, don't cook, and if they do they use a cutting board LOL but yet they give advice on what to use as a sealer because they heard or read it online. Unbelievable. Everyone knows not to put a scorching pan or pot on ANY counter, so urethane is the wise choice. Yes it happens. And how many people put hot pans on a counter? There are 7 billion people on this planet and all 7 billion know this. They teach it in the hospitals as soon as a mother gives birth. Welcome to this earth little Isabella, don't put hot pans on the counter please. It's elementary. Warping, cupping, twisting, and bowing are impossible to prevent when it comes to wood. Period. It's wood, it's natural, it's fibers have grown together in a manner wher they are not in a permanent position for eternity. Its wood, thus is nature. Its wood it's what it does. This goes for all wood construction, from faming to finish, to furniture making. Floors, doors, and windows.....they all expand and contract. Granted, some too much, and even some not at all. The moisture content, and species, are the major factors. Did you guess that I'm a woodworker? I applaud your decision 100% Smart !! In fact very smart because just about all the advice you get online is to use oil. So you've managed to see thru the garbage. I'm not saying that is a bad choice, it's that a hard seller is the smart choice. You'd be even smarter if you ignore all negative comments. You can prevent as much damage as humanly possible by sealing all surfaces and edges. That's all we can do as humans using real aid in our homes. Water base poly is absolutely fine. It's perfect. You can live your life without clearing your counters of all that takes up that space. Applying more oil, letting dry, and putting every back every few months as some have suggested. Some so called experts say that you can never apply enough oil....they don't sound like experts to me. I already mentioned why urethane is a wise choice. Your counters look great and you're done. Well done !
''The people that oil their wood counters, don't cook'' Uninformed to say the least. A properly oiled butcher block counter is one of the best surfaces for preparing food directly on, for knife edges and for it's antibacterial properties (end grain preferably, face grain etc is alright) if the right wood species and proper pure oil is chosen, such as maple(very antibacterial). Not that that seems to matter for folks who choose wood countertops simply for looks, which there's nothing wrong with, but stating oiled wood countertops aren't for people who cook is actually opposite to the truth
What if I want something that is non toxic? Even if I don't cook on the countertop directly and use a cutting board, it is still a surface that is frequently touched and I think it very unlikely that one would never put a piece of bread or a veggie on the countertop for a moment. But if it contains toxic substances because of the finish, then it's not my preference for sure. Any "smart" and long lasting alternative that is also safe?
@@PuolikuuIrene : oiling your counter is non toxic at first, but even that oil becomes rancid at some point. Oiling your wood counter looks great yes. I like the look of that better myself. You give up durability for esthetics yes. If you don’t mind cutting up your counter the you can go with the oil but, but you’ll have to keep that one area very clean each time you use it. Every time you cook, first you clean the area you’ll be cutting on, then prepare your food, clean it, then apply oil again. The problem is that the knife marks will really scuff up that surface and it will be very difficult to clean. Applying more oil on that surface is bad idea. It saves the wood counter but you’ll end up with layers and layers of food and oil contamination in that area. Get a cutting board made of food grade plastics. It’s the best option to keep a cutting area as clean as possible. That’s what I have. Or a piece of granite just for cutting, because a knife won’t be able to destroy that hard surface but your knives will take the punishment. This is the best option, unfortunately you’ll be sharpening knives more often. Again you giving one of gain something else. You’re going have to decide what works for you. I also have a wood cutting board. Oak is hard but very porous, I still use it because I keep it clean. Maple wood readily available anywhere you go. Maple is very hard, harder than oak in fact and has an incredibly tight grain, and will stand up to sharpe knives longer than oak. I use sandpaper to clean up the rough surface. This is what I advise as a precaution and prevention of infection. The best medicine is preventative healthcare. Once you get sick it’s “really” difficult. Most people don’t worry about it. I worry because I’ve had a nasty stomach infection and it almost took my life. Good luck to you.
@@ginoasci sorry you misunderstood. I don't want to use it as a cutting board or for cooking. Just not have specifically toxic or plastic things since it is still a kitchen so no matter what some food will come in contact with it sometimes
Hello! It is very informative video, thanks for sharing! I have questions though! How is your worktop condition right now after i believe 8 years of usage? I am planning to buy this worktops from IKEA too. Cheers from Indonesia! :)
We used it for about 5 years before selling the home and they were perfect. They were solid oak, though, and Ikea doesn't sell solid wood counters anymore (at least not in the US), so I'd make sure what you're getting.
Generally water-based polyurethane is food safe if you let it cure fully for 30 days. It's essentially a plastic on top of the countertop and if you've been using plastic cutting boards or plastic utensils you have the same amount of chance of ingesting plastic.
Did you seal the timber end grain when you cut out the sink hole? I just paid the price for not doing so... the foam sink gasket attached to our IKEA sink is not entirely waterproof and some water found its way behind and to the timber cut edge. Overnight we had wood swelling issues and considerable heart ache to fix it. Eventually sealed it with an oil based (penetrates a bit more in end grain) polyurethane and some silicone either side of IKEA's gasket.
Did you stain the countertops before sealing them, or did they come in that beautiful color? Also, what did you do about the seams where 2 pieces came together? Did you glue them, attach them underneath, or just install them tightly! I’d be worried about stuff getting stuck in between. I’ve been wanting butcher block counters for awhile now and I’m just looking for some extra helpful info. Beautiful job!
Yes, I stained them, Margo! If you like this color, I would recommend Special Walnut by Minwax. Only do the oil based stain - I did water base and it's more like paint and wasn't happy with it. You can still use water based poly on top. We just made the seams as tight as possible and it was pretty easy to keep clean.
Great video. Very helpful information. I will look for more of your countertop videos. My wife and I just bought 3 pieces of 96 inch Ikea butcher block to do our kitchen countertops. They are sitting in boxes waiting for me to start the project. What do you think about using mineral oil or the Ikea brand oil for treatment ? Did you treat the underside ? Thanks !
Hi Guys, just found your channel, hows the countertops now? Im putting ours in this week and wanting thembto last as long as possible, your tips are awsome!!
Thank you! I wasn't super happy with this water-based stain since it covered up so much of the wood grain, which is why I didn't talk about it.😀 For a similar color, I have used oil-based 'special walnut' by Minwax which I love. Despite what the directions say, it's fine to top with a water based poly (which is what I've done on everything since) - you just have to let the stain dry very thoroughly, like a few days depending on how warm it is.
Thanks for the video! Is it easy to get molded? Especially the part where it contacts with the sink (if the water goes under the edges of the sink on the wood)? I’m considering change my countertop to wood but I’m worried about the hygiene and maintenance.
If water sits on it over a long time, yes mold will develop - my sister had this problem when she left a dish drainer constantly on the counter. If it's just the overspray from using the sink, that's wiped off and shouldn't be an issue with mold.
Thank you for this video... I am just having Ikea Black Walnut countertops installed in my new kitchen... I wonder... Did you put the polyurethane finish over the factory oil/wax finish?... I am debating about what to do as I have never had wood countertops before.
I installed a Kohler sink (Iron Tones 24 x 18.5 x 8-gloss black) and drilled holes in counter behind it for Delta waterfall valve, faucet, and spray (I skipped the soap dispenser for symmetry) This sink allowed for 3.5" of counter front and back. It looks amazing. I used Bally Block Hard Northern Maple which comes with a super durable factory applied finish. It ain't cheap thought-around $100 per linear foot. I used 1/8" x 3/4" anodized aluminum bar, where you used the quarter round. I also finish all cut ends and cutouts and holes with 3 coats of oil based poly. Oh, and where sections butt together, I attach a piece of 1x6 oak stock underneath to straddle the joint-keeps the butt joint flush.
I would also add that although water-based polyurethanes have come a long way (and I use them often), for a kitchen top I use oil based due to better smoothing and settling after brushing and slightly deeper penetration. Several coats and a wet and dry sanding with vegie oil to get beaut waxy surface.
Oh, wow. Good to know Richie. That's one of the reasons I'm pretty obnoxious about putting it away after only a few hours - we haven't had any warping, as you can see. :)
AnOregonCottage We've had ours for three years and finished with just tung oil and bi-monthly mineral oil rub downs. Aside from the burn marks, the biggest issue is mold around the kitchen sink. We made the mistake of cleaning with bleach regularly, then stopped that, but the damage had been done. Planning on the first resanding come spring, then re-oiling. Researching what to do about the sink area. Seen some people use epoxy in just the area around the sink.
Richie Sun I actually didn't know that could happen with bleach - good thing I don't use it. :) Sorry you're having to do all that. As you can see from our video, that monthly rub-down thing wouldn't go over with us, so we're pretty happy with our choice. Plus the sink area is still perfect. We had finished counters in our old house the same way and used them for 3 years with the same results, so we knew this was the way to go for us!
Hmm, I never had that issue Cindy. But for any scrape or discoloration, I would gently sand the area, restain if needed and then recoat with the poly. I did this in two areas over the years we had the counters and it worked well.
I don't think they sell it anymore - it was the cheaper style that everyone loved so they were always out of it :) But the stain I used was called Special Walnut (Minwax) and I really loved the look of it on any type of wood I used it on. It looks lighter on the bathroom counter than it did on our oak floors.
Hello from Damascus OR! Your house looks lovely. Could you do a house tour? Also where did you get that towel holder under the sink? Is that just a regular bathroom towel rod?
Thank you! You can find a tour of this house (our previous house) on my blog here: anoregoncottage.com/house-tour/ And that was a towel bar I found at Ikea - I just looked for a bar with rounded corners so it wouldn't jab me when I was working at the sink. :)
@@gladitsnotme once it has cured it will not give off any VOC’s so they are basically the same as eating off of plastic plates. As long as you do not cut on the counter and eat some of the poly if it chips off.
Ours came with an oiled type of finish, but not stained. I think there are different types now, though I know you can always stain darker with a good sanding first.
I have ordered an IKEA wood countertop. It is not installed yet but I already regret. I am the most careless person in the kitchen. I leave water on my counter top, I spill things that may stain and I am messy. I do not clean them right away. This counter top is absolutely not for me. I needed to invest in stone. My plan is to ruin the countertops this winter and change them with stone ones next summer. Why on the hell I bought them...
Can you return them? Since you know yourself well, that would be the best option! Be very careful when researching stone - much of it needs stains wiped up right away, too...
@@AnOregonCottage Thanks for your advice regarding stone countertops. I can't return mine because they said that waiting period for stone countertops is several weeks :(( I have to move in as soon as possible.
Forget polyurathane. I used a natural Osmo hardwax oil that is incredibly beautiful and durable. I've used it on my pine floors and on my oak countertop from Ikea. It's now been 6 years and I've had no problem with it. Should you ever need to repair an area, you only need to sand that small area down and apply the hardwax oil to it. Forget the Ikea oil for countertops. I tried it and it's garbage!
I have no idea. It is still looks really good, even around the sink where there's a lot of water spills it shows no sign of wear. I would suggest waiting to put on the baseboards until after you apply the oil, or protect the baseboards well. Osmo is very thin, almost a watery consistency and can be a bit messy because of that. It has to be applied with a natural brush. Follow instructions well! I had to repair the coating in one spot on the counter top, that was because I had left a squash on it, for a long time.. I mean weeks, which had rotted underneath. The rot had eaten through to the bare wood and left a moldy stain. I sanded that small area and applied new hardwax oil, and you wouldn't know it ever happened by looking at it now. I have pine floors that are receiving wear and tear, and unlike varnish, the hardwax oil does not crack where it is being dented. It is wearing beautifully and I don't see any need to reapply Osmo any time soon, and in time, probably only in spots here and there. I love it and would apply it again on any wood surface!
Wow, this is really wonderful to know Anne! I'm really going to look more into this when we are at this stage in our new farmhouse for any floors and counters we do. Thank you!
Lol, Very low maintanance? Im sorry i could not hold it to myself. I guess we have our own ways defining "very low" in this case. Having wood in the kitchen is not practicle as long as we use the kitchen for its purposes. Other than that, very much apreciated for your video and concerns. I guess i prefer making my own countertop out of more durable and really low maintanance materials.
To:+Necrodox. It all depends on people justification of "low maintanance". personally, I like cement counter tops, easy to make, very cheap, you can use a verity of colors, and really low maintenance.
Oil products are not what they were 30 years ago… The yellow you speak of doesn’t happen anymore Especially on clear coats.. Oil is by far a Superior product that’s why they cost so much more then water based
Yes, it was a lesson learned - do not use water-based stain, no matter what the package says. Oil-based stains show the wood grain better and work fine with water-based poly (I had other counters with this combo that were fine).
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Your wood countertops are just gorgeous. I can't believe they are 2 years old. Thanks for sharing your experience and tricks 😀 👍
You are so welcome!
Thanks, that was very helpful. I would like to use the Ikea butcher block and your comments on water based polyE and ongoing care have reassured me. Also - I now need to see how you installed it, after you mentioned your trick! Super helpful. Thanks again.
Thank you both. This video was insightful and straight to the point. Nice kitchen btw.
Thanks for your video. You seemed to read my mind with the concerns I was having. This is the second time I've used Ikea bb. First time was the really dense, very think beech colored onces from years ago. They were tough as nails. Now I've bought the Karlby walnut stained Ikea wood and particle board combination. I was worried that the darker stain would show water marks etc. Now I can be confident in doing the polyurethane stain and not worry about it again. I will make sure to have the sink top mounted and as far back as possible from the front edge. My friend who works at Ikea says to never miter the edges but to butt-mount them only. I love the warmth and feel of wood and it's a very old Mennonite look that reminds me of my upbringing. Take care and good work. Your kitchen is to be envied.
Yes, I really miss the old wood counters from Ikea! Our bathroom (a kid's bath at that) counter looked as good as the day we installed it 6 years previously when we sold. Our kitchen counters looked good, but there were slight buckles in places near the stove (heat maybe?). I still love a good wood counter. :)
Thanks for sharing those tips! I just purchased today since other options were just too pricey for now. I'm excited!
You are so welcome! Hope you love your counters like we do.
So, other than the warping, staining, constant maintenance and repairs, they are great?
CybreSmee these won’t last 2 months with my fiancé!
Sorry you got that out of the video, as that's not what we were trying to say. We repaired them once in the 4 years we had them, the only warp was from installation, we had no staining, and the only maintenance was keeping them clean and dry (which is what I'd hope most kitchens would be).
AnOregonCottage thanks for the clarification. It definitely looks nice.
YES! FINALLY PEOPLE THAT GET IT !
Don't pay any attention to any of the negative comments.
You've made the right choice, and applied the right finish.
I've watched a lot of these videos on people oiling , and ouling and oiling and oiling. 500 gallons of oil later and 8 years later they are still oiling lol
These are people that do not pay attention.
Cutting boards are always used to prepare food, so urethane is the wise choice.
This is the main reason why most suggest oil.....I don't know anyone that directly prepares food on any type of counter. Always a cutting board.
*** The people that oil their wood counters, don't cook, and if they do they use a cutting board LOL but yet they give advice on what to use as a sealer because they heard or read it online. Unbelievable.
Everyone knows not to put a scorching pan or pot on ANY counter, so urethane is the wise choice. Yes it happens. And how many people put hot pans on a counter? There are 7 billion people on this planet and all 7 billion know this.
They teach it in the hospitals as soon as a mother gives birth.
Welcome to this earth little Isabella, don't put hot pans on the counter please.
It's elementary.
Warping, cupping, twisting, and bowing are impossible to prevent when it comes to wood. Period. It's wood, it's natural, it's fibers have grown together in a manner wher they are not in a permanent position for eternity.
Its wood, thus is nature. Its wood it's what it does.
This goes for all wood construction, from faming to finish, to furniture making.
Floors, doors, and windows.....they all expand and contract. Granted, some too much, and even some not at all. The moisture content, and species, are the major factors. Did you guess that I'm a woodworker?
I applaud your decision 100% Smart !! In fact very smart because just about all the advice you get online is to use oil. So you've managed to see thru the garbage. I'm not saying that is a bad choice, it's that a hard seller is the smart choice.
You'd be even smarter if you ignore all negative comments.
You can prevent as much damage as humanly possible by sealing all surfaces and edges. That's all we can do as humans using real aid in our homes.
Water base poly is absolutely fine. It's perfect.
You can live your life without clearing your counters of all that takes up that space. Applying more oil, letting dry, and putting every back every few months as some have suggested. Some so called experts say that you can never apply enough oil....they don't sound like experts to me.
I already mentioned why urethane is a wise choice.
Your counters look great and you're done.
Well done !
Thank you so much, Gino - you're right we took the easy way for sure and I like to think it's the smart way, too. :)
''The people that oil their wood counters, don't cook'' Uninformed to say the least. A properly oiled butcher block counter is one of the best surfaces for preparing food directly on, for knife edges and for it's antibacterial properties (end grain preferably, face grain etc is alright) if the right wood species and proper pure oil is chosen, such as maple(very antibacterial).
Not that that seems to matter for folks who choose wood countertops simply for looks, which there's nothing wrong with, but stating oiled wood countertops aren't for people who cook is actually opposite to the truth
What if I want something that is non toxic? Even if I don't cook on the countertop directly and use a cutting board, it is still a surface that is frequently touched and I think it very unlikely that one would never put a piece of bread or a veggie on the countertop for a moment. But if it contains toxic substances because of the finish, then it's not my preference for sure. Any "smart" and long lasting alternative that is also safe?
@@PuolikuuIrene : oiling your counter is non toxic at first, but even that oil becomes rancid at some point.
Oiling your wood counter looks great yes. I like the look of that better myself.
You give up durability for esthetics yes.
If you don’t mind cutting up your counter the you can go with the oil but, but you’ll have to keep that one area very clean each time you use it.
Every time you cook, first you clean the area you’ll be cutting on, then prepare your food, clean it, then apply oil again.
The problem is that the knife marks will really scuff up that surface and it will be very difficult to clean.
Applying more oil on that surface is bad idea. It saves the wood counter but you’ll end up with layers and layers of food and oil contamination in that area.
Get a cutting board made of food grade plastics. It’s the best option to keep a cutting area as clean as possible.
That’s what I have.
Or a piece of granite just for cutting, because a knife won’t be able to destroy that hard surface but your knives will take the punishment. This is the best option, unfortunately you’ll be sharpening knives more often.
Again you giving one of gain something else. You’re going have to decide what works for you.
I also have a wood cutting board.
Oak is hard but very porous, I still use it because I keep it clean.
Maple wood readily available anywhere you go. Maple is very hard, harder than oak in fact and has an incredibly tight grain, and will stand up to sharpe knives longer than oak. I use sandpaper to clean up the rough surface.
This is what I advise as a precaution and prevention of infection.
The best medicine is preventative healthcare. Once you get sick it’s “really” difficult. Most people don’t worry about it.
I worry because I’ve had a nasty stomach infection and it almost took my life.
Good luck to you.
@@ginoasci sorry you misunderstood. I don't want to use it as a cutting board or for cooking. Just not have specifically toxic or plastic things since it is still a kitchen so no matter what some food will come in contact with it sometimes
We used the oak counters - they were the only type in stock at the time.
Hello! It is very informative video, thanks for sharing! I have questions though!
How is your worktop condition right now after i believe 8 years of usage?
I am planning to buy this worktops from IKEA too.
Cheers from Indonesia! :)
We used it for about 5 years before selling the home and they were perfect. They were solid oak, though, and Ikea doesn't sell solid wood counters anymore (at least not in the US), so I'd make sure what you're getting.
Generally water-based polyurethane is food safe if you let it cure fully for 30 days. It's essentially a plastic on top of the countertop and if you've been using plastic cutting boards or plastic utensils you have the same amount of chance of ingesting plastic.
Good to know!
Did you seal the timber end grain when you cut out the sink hole? I just paid the price for not doing so... the foam sink gasket attached to our IKEA sink is not entirely waterproof and some water found its way behind and to the timber cut edge. Overnight we had wood swelling issues and considerable heart ache to fix it. Eventually sealed it with an oil based (penetrates a bit more in end grain) polyurethane and some silicone either side of IKEA's gasket.
Yes, I sealed all edges and the undersides just to be sure. We didn't have any swelling issues in the 4 years we used the kitchen before we moved.
Did you stain the countertops before sealing them, or did they come in that beautiful color? Also, what did you do about the seams where 2 pieces came together? Did you glue them, attach them underneath, or just install them tightly! I’d be worried about stuff getting stuck in between. I’ve been wanting butcher block counters for awhile now and I’m just looking for some extra helpful info. Beautiful job!
Yes, I stained them, Margo! If you like this color, I would recommend Special Walnut by Minwax. Only do the oil based stain - I did water base and it's more like paint and wasn't happy with it. You can still use water based poly on top. We just made the seams as tight as possible and it was pretty easy to keep clean.
Great video. Very helpful information. I will look for more of your countertop videos. My wife and I just bought 3 pieces of 96 inch Ikea butcher block to do our kitchen countertops. They are sitting in boxes waiting for me to start the project. What do you think about using mineral oil or the Ikea brand oil for treatment ? Did you treat the underside ?
Thanks !
A lot of good information👍 Thanks guys!
So glad you found it helpful.
A little bit or warping adds character to the kitchen. I would never want an always perfect kitchen.
that's dumb.
Hi Guys, just found your channel, hows the countertops now? Im putting ours in this week and wanting thembto last as long as possible, your tips are awsome!!
We sold the house they are in a couple of years ago. But in the 4 plus years we lived with them, they were great. We plan on installing them again.
Thank you! I really value this advice!
looks good
Thanks!
i love your countertop. Can you share what brand and stain color you used?
Thank you! I wasn't super happy with this water-based stain since it covered up so much of the wood grain, which is why I didn't talk about it.😀
For a similar color, I have used oil-based 'special walnut' by Minwax which I love. Despite what the directions say, it's fine to top with a water based poly (which is what I've done on everything since) - you just have to let the stain dry very thoroughly, like a few days depending on how warm it is.
Thanks for the video! Is it easy to get molded? Especially the part where it contacts with the sink (if the water goes under the edges of the sink on the wood)? I’m considering change my countertop to wood but I’m worried about the hygiene and maintenance.
If water sits on it over a long time, yes mold will develop - my sister had this problem when she left a dish drainer constantly on the counter. If it's just the overspray from using the sink, that's wiped off and shouldn't be an issue with mold.
Thank you for this video... I am just having Ikea Black Walnut countertops installed in my new kitchen... I wonder... Did you put the polyurethane finish over the factory oil/wax finish?... I am debating about what to do as I have never had wood countertops before.
Yes, I sanded the surface to remove some of the finish, applied a stain, and then the poly.
great video. Thanks!
I installed a Kohler sink (Iron Tones 24 x 18.5 x 8-gloss black) and drilled holes in counter behind it for Delta waterfall valve, faucet, and spray (I skipped the soap dispenser for symmetry) This sink allowed for 3.5" of counter front and back. It looks amazing. I used Bally Block Hard Northern Maple which comes with a super durable factory applied finish. It ain't cheap thought-around $100 per linear foot. I used 1/8" x 3/4" anodized aluminum bar, where you used the quarter round. I also finish all cut ends and cutouts and holes with 3 coats of oil based poly. Oh, and where sections butt together, I attach a piece of 1x6 oak stock underneath to straddle the joint-keeps the butt joint flush.
That sounds beautiful, thanks for the tips - and how nice that your wood came finished!
Thanks going to tackle this in my cabin.how have they held up?
I would also add that although water-based polyurethanes have come a long way (and I use them often), for a kitchen top I use oil based due to better smoothing and settling after brushing and slightly deeper penetration. Several coats and a wet and dry sanding with vegie oil to get beaut waxy surface.
terrasprite a lot of veggie oils go rancid. Does using the poly in combination stop that?
What kind of water based poly did you use? I'm about to finish my maple countertops and I'm curious :)
Minwax Polycrylic
How is it today?? thanks for sharing!
Still good!
Nice video, but I really prefer oil-based poly. No water spots or warping.
Just a lot of smell and waiting for drying. :) (Oh and I had no warping.) It's nice to be informed and then make the decision that's best for you!
For us, warping came from excessive use of a drying mat. We got rid of it, and went to a normal dish drying rack and the warping disappeared.
Oh, wow. Good to know Richie. That's one of the reasons I'm pretty obnoxious about putting it away after only a few hours - we haven't had any warping, as you can see. :)
AnOregonCottage We've had ours for three years and finished with just tung oil and bi-monthly mineral oil rub downs. Aside from the burn marks, the biggest issue is mold around the kitchen sink. We made the mistake of cleaning with bleach regularly, then stopped that, but the damage had been done. Planning on the first resanding come spring, then re-oiling. Researching what to do about the sink area. Seen some people use epoxy in just the area around the sink.
Richie Sun I actually didn't know that could happen with bleach - good thing I don't use it. :) Sorry you're having to do all that. As you can see from our video, that monthly rub-down thing wouldn't go over with us, so we're pretty happy with our choice. Plus the sink area is still perfect. We had finished counters in our old house the same way and used them for 3 years with the same results, so we knew this was the way to go for us!
I left the dish detergent holder on the counter for less than 2 days and now there is a ring on the coating..I don't think it will go away..
Hmm, I never had that issue Cindy. But for any scrape or discoloration, I would gently sand the area, restain if needed and then recoat with the poly. I did this in two areas over the years we had the counters and it worked well.
Which style did you install in your bathroom? I am looking for the lighter stain like that
I don't think they sell it anymore - it was the cheaper style that everyone loved so they were always out of it :) But the stain I used was called Special Walnut (Minwax) and I really loved the look of it on any type of wood I used it on. It looks lighter on the bathroom counter than it did on our oak floors.
Hello from Damascus OR! Your house looks lovely. Could you do a house tour?
Also where did you get that towel holder under the sink? Is that just a regular bathroom towel rod?
Thank you! You can find a tour of this house (our previous house) on my blog here: anoregoncottage.com/house-tour/
And that was a towel bar I found at Ikea - I just looked for a bar with rounded corners so it wouldn't jab me when I was working at the sink. :)
Dovetail joint in worktop. Where?
It was in front of the sink
That's not a dove tail joint.
Thanks doing ti tomorrow
When your kitchen counters aren't food safe... there's a problem
No problem here!
what doesn't make them food safe?
@@PierrefMedina polyurethane duh
@@gladitsnotme once it has cured it will not give off any VOC’s so they are basically the same as eating off of plastic plates. As long as you do not cut on the counter and eat some of the poly if it chips off.
Unless you do what she is doing
What type of wood did you use Oak or Birch?
doesn't the IKEA countertops come already stained?
Ours came with an oiled type of finish, but not stained. I think there are different types now, though I know you can always stain darker with a good sanding first.
I'm not so sure the extra kid gloves needed to protect the counter is worth the look in my humble opinion. Great job on the video regardless!
Sure - everyone has their own limits on what is worth it!
@@AnOregonCottage true
I have ordered an IKEA wood countertop. It is not installed yet but I already regret. I am the most careless person in the kitchen. I leave water on my counter top, I spill things that may stain and I am messy. I do not clean them right away. This counter top is absolutely not for me. I needed to invest in stone. My plan is to ruin the countertops this winter and change them with stone ones next summer. Why on the hell I bought them...
Can you return them? Since you know yourself well, that would be the best option! Be very careful when researching stone - much of it needs stains wiped up right away, too...
@@AnOregonCottage Thanks for your advice regarding stone countertops. I can't return mine because they said that waiting period for stone countertops is several weeks :(( I have to move in as soon as possible.
Forget polyurathane. I used a natural Osmo hardwax oil that is incredibly beautiful and durable. I've used it on my pine floors and on my oak countertop from Ikea. It's now been 6 years and I've had no problem with it. Should you ever need to repair an area, you only need to sand that small area down and apply the hardwax oil to it. Forget the Ikea oil for countertops. I tried it and it's garbage!
That sounds really interesting and totally doable! How often do you have to apply it?
I have no idea. It is still looks really good, even around the sink where there's a lot of water spills it shows no sign of wear. I would suggest waiting to put on the baseboards until after you apply the oil, or protect the baseboards well. Osmo is very thin, almost a watery consistency and can be a bit messy because of that. It has to be applied with a natural brush. Follow instructions well! I had to repair the coating in one spot on the counter top, that was because I had left a squash on it, for a long time.. I mean weeks, which had rotted underneath. The rot had eaten through to the bare wood and left a moldy stain. I sanded that small area and applied new hardwax oil, and you wouldn't know it ever happened by looking at it now. I have pine floors that are receiving wear and tear, and unlike varnish, the hardwax oil does not crack where it is being dented. It is wearing beautifully and I don't see any need to reapply Osmo any time soon, and in time, probably only in spots here and there. I love it and would apply it again on any wood surface!
Wow, this is really wonderful to know Anne! I'm really going to look more into this when we are at this stage in our new farmhouse for any floors and counters we do. Thank you!
Lol,
Very low maintanance? Im sorry i could not hold it to myself. I guess we have our own ways defining "very low" in this case. Having wood in the kitchen is not practicle as long as we use the kitchen for its purposes. Other than that, very much apreciated for your video and concerns.
I guess i prefer making my own countertop out of more durable and really low maintanance materials.
Such as?
To:+Necrodox. It all depends on people justification of "low maintanance". personally, I like cement counter tops, easy to make, very cheap, you can use a verity of colors, and really low maintenance.
Cement? a cocktail of toxic chemicals permanently in your kitchen!
You're an idiot
I've watched videos on cement countertops. It's what I'd like to do.
Talk to me in 15 years
So, don't use your butcher block counter as a butcher block
No. 😂 In this case it just describes to look and not the function! You can, of course, keep a section to use as a true butcher block.
good-looking couple, am i getting distracted, lol.....
Ha! Thanks...
I'd NEVER use polyurethane on anything were food is to be consumed!
We don't eat off our counter. We only use cutting boards. But do what works for you!
@@AnOregonCottage I would hope you use plates of course.. but using poly anywhere near food is kinda crazy.. but it's your health.
Water-based anything is junk
Each to their own - I won't use oil based poly because of the smell, off-gassing, and yellowing over time.
Oil products are not what they were 30 years ago… The yellow you speak of doesn’t happen anymore Especially on clear coats.. Oil is by far a Superior product that’s why they cost so much more then water based
Then don’t smell bad anymore.
Water based aren't what they were, either. :) Definitely do what you want!
To bad about that awful stain.
Yes, it was a lesson learned - do not use water-based stain, no matter what the package says. Oil-based stains show the wood grain better and work fine with water-based poly (I had other counters with this combo that were fine).
I think it looks nice.