Check the head gasket for a blown gasket. That is often the cause of oil on the plug and low compression. Very common on small engines. Easy to fix and easy to inspect. Pull the head carefully to inspect the gasket. Thanks for great video's. P.S. I walked by some mowers in Lowe's, and some of the mowers had a label on them saying "never change oil" Can't believe a company would state that but we are in a throw away society.
I'm sorry to see that Snapper has been neglected. I have two of them with rear wheel drive and they are pricey machines. One of mine is nine years old and still starts on the first pull. That 190 cc engine is a strong work horse, but they must be maintained properly.
Well,I don't know what Briggs & Stratton were thinking when they started releasing their no oil change engines because that's what's going to happen to such a motor 12 months after it gets used , it will likely go like that. I would unbolt the cylinder head & check the condition of the cylinder bore before unbolting the bottom of the crankcase so I can check the piston ring gap,if the bore is damaged it will either need boring out oversized & honing out to fit an oversized piston & rings into it or otherwise scrap it My 32 year old 92500 model lawnmower engine tested at 75 PSI before I replaced the piston rings in it,the issue with mine is it was using oil but fitting a new set of Stens piston rings bumped it up to 80 PSI of compression,now it's at 95 PSI after the rings have seated. It runs the "Kool bore" engine which means that the cylinder is aluminium,it was in very good condition so a new set of piston rings is all It needed !
Hello I have a 4 year old Makita 3201S chainsaw, that looses power when applying the throttle when it even ran. I cleaned the carb out and it ran way better, but it didn't take long for the powerloss came back. So my question is: what do you think it could be? Cheers! :p
@@HomeGaragechannel I used to use a homemixed fuel, but that got drained and refilled with premixed 2%. it had a bit of flex to it still, but it wasn't as new that's for sure.
It depends on how much time you have on your hands, but given the time I'd check the valves, then check the piston rings and bore and if the bore is OK possibly see if I can get new rings. (Though with new rings you'd need to hone the bore to de glaze it as new piston rings don't like old bores.)
First the age and quality of the mower. Then I would check the cylinder for scoring. There was no knock so the bottom end is likely to be alright. This is where I decide, keep, sell or save for parts. I would most likely keep it and replace the rings, they're cheap, and then make it a spare time project. If it has good to excellent compression and runs strong I can keep it for a loaner or sell it out right. Probably sell.
I used a Sears mower for 30 years and never changed the oil. Started on first or second pull always. It's now 40 and still being used by second owner. Had to get new mower because self propelled function no longer worked and parts were not available.
good for parts but I noticed that the bolt for the air cleaner was different and wonder if the original was removed or lost and ran without an air cleaner and that would mess up an engine
I'd probably take the head off and inspect the bore & valves, also make sure the valve timing is 100% (sometimes the cheap plastic cam lobes slip a little and the valves don't seal perfectly on the compression stroke). If the cylinder walls aren't scored up and the valves are sealing I'd probably clean the head and the valves thoroughly, install a new head gasket, warm it up and change the oil to straight 30 weight like the manual says to do then re-check the compression. Might even put a little Lucas oil treatment in it to help improve the seal. If the cylinder walls are scored then it's a parts engine, go get a Harbor Freight Loncin engine and call it a day.
I'd start by changing the oil to Delo and see how that did. Delo, being diesel formula is a high detergent, high dispersant lube that keeps the insides clean and crud non-settling so it gets drained out instead of making sludge and the thicker viscosity helps the engine run cooler and also reduce the metal to metal contact by having a thicker film of oil between surfaces. One of my 85 mowers, the 11 horse Briggs on the old 38 inch cut rider smokes but has never fouled a plug like that did and always starts right up in spite of low compression. I always run stuff just to see how it's going to do and act later on if it needs something. That gives stuff to straighten out if it can. Thanks and Blessings!
The modern Briggs engines claim that you don’t have to replace your engine oil, they claim all you have to do is check and fill. That is a really bad idea, your mower will only work for three years at best if you follow those guidelines. I am sure they just want it to break down so you will buy another one from them. Don’t follow those guidelines and you will get much more seasons out of your machine
The stamp on that engine says March 2013. That oil was probably never changed even once. If I liked the Quantum engines a little better I'd take the time to put in new rings and hone the cylinder. However, my preferred fix is to scrap them and get a Honda GCV160 instead.
I would pull the head and check the cylinder bore. If the bore would live, I would replace the ring and possibly the piston, hone it out and reassemble. However you could probably find a used mower for very little that needs far less work.
@@HomeGaragechannel I understand. It doesn’t take much to pull the head though. It could be just a stuck ring. You can get a cheap inspection camera that plugs into your phone on eBay. Just put it in the spark plug hole.
Since it is a flathead, I would take it apart and put new rings in it I have a quantum bridge and Stratton. The connecting rod is bad so I’m gonna order another one and put in it.
Depending on what else is wrong with the machine I would check on the prices to rebuild after I checked the cylinder walls. If not worth the investment then take it apart and save the good parts and chuck the rest. Or give it to someone I don't like. hahaha
If i were to fix a mower in such a condition like that snapper mower i would drainthe old oil, tear the engine apart and replace the piston rings and when i would get that done i would make sure to give it a great maintance which not only includes changing the oil but also replacing the air filter depending on it's condition and also change the transmission oil and service the drive wheels if it's an self propelled mower like our husqvarna lc 247 sp and depending on their air filter if it is a foam air filter which our 1970 norlett mower and 1999 husqvarna 252rx trimmer uses i usually blow out any dirt in it and reuse it where as with an paper air filter which our Husqvarna 345FR trimmer and Husqvarna lc 247 SP mower uses i replace them when the condition is bad 😄 always give your equipment or vehicle an excellent annual service 😄 the better you service your vehicle or small engine equipment and take care of it the longer it will last and the less the repair and cost will be to keep it going 😄
I’d agree too. I love flipping equipment. Sadly those wheels range from $30-50. And by the time you pull out the cylinder and do all the work, you’re quite invested in it.
Oh my, the breather is howling. Piston blow by, and I’m only 1 minute in. When someone says it ran last week, Or a year ago, they forget or lie to you Parts mower. Not worth fixing.
That was about pointless. I thought you were going to repair. This was only about a 6 minute video. Would have been nice if you would have showed us how to help those wheels in this video. i guess your low on content and need to save that info for a future video? What did i just watch?! lol.!!!
There are more videos after this on the repair of this mower if you want to watch and comment on them too. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Most people don't.
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This would be a good candidate for a video with some type of engine restore product.
oh yes you're right. I'll have to consider doing that
Check the head gasket for a blown gasket. That is often the cause of oil on the plug and low compression. Very common on small engines. Easy to fix and easy to inspect. Pull the head carefully to inspect the gasket. Thanks for great video's. P.S. I walked by some mowers in Lowe's, and some of the mowers had a label on them saying "never change oil" Can't believe a company would state that but we are in a throw away society.
Thank you Waterman one for the comment. Yes I've seen the same labels and its completely unbelievable.
That’s Briggs these days...
I'm sorry to see that Snapper has been neglected. I have two of them with rear wheel drive and they are pricey machines. One of mine is nine years old and still starts on the first pull. That 190 cc engine is a strong work horse, but they must be maintained properly.
You are absolutely correct. Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
@@TheSeniorTaco yes you are correct about that
Well,I don't know what Briggs & Stratton were thinking when they started releasing their no oil change engines because that's what's going to happen to such a motor 12 months after it gets used , it will likely go like that.
I would unbolt the cylinder head & check the condition of the cylinder bore before unbolting the bottom of the crankcase so I can check the piston ring gap,if the bore is damaged it will either need boring out oversized & honing out to fit an oversized piston & rings into it or otherwise scrap it
My 32 year old 92500 model lawnmower engine tested at 75 PSI before I replaced the piston rings in it,the issue with mine is it was using oil but fitting a new set of Stens piston rings bumped it up to 80 PSI of compression,now it's at 95 PSI after the rings have seated.
It runs the "Kool bore" engine which means that the cylinder is aluminium,it was in very good condition so a new set of piston rings is all It needed !
there's a chance that its savable but its probably going to be replaced.
I have that same mower.
Nice I don't see this one very often.
Hello
I have a 4 year old Makita 3201S chainsaw, that looses power when applying the throttle when it even ran. I cleaned the carb out and it ran way better, but it didn't take long for the powerloss came back. So my question is: what do you think it could be?
Cheers! :p
Thank you Jesper Nissen for the comment. What kind of oil and gas are you using for fuel? How did the diaphragm look when cleaned the carb?
@@HomeGaragechannel I used to use a homemixed fuel, but that got drained and refilled with premixed 2%. it had a bit of flex to it still, but it wasn't as new that's for sure.
Okay try checking the spark arrestor screen on the muffler for carbon deposits.
It depends on how much time you have on your hands, but given the time I'd check the valves, then check the piston rings and bore and if the bore is OK possibly see if I can get new rings. (Though with new rings you'd need to hone the bore to de glaze it as new piston rings don't like old bores.)
Thank you Benedict White for the comment. Its definitely a candidate for rebuild
Model p21509b serial number 25066448
What type of oil do you used for the selfpropelled belt
First the age and quality of the mower. Then I would check the cylinder for scoring.
There was no knock so the bottom end is likely to be alright. This is where I decide, keep, sell
or save for parts. I would most likely keep it and replace the rings, they're cheap, and then make it a spare time
project. If it has good to excellent compression and runs strong I can keep it for a loaner or sell it out right.
Probably sell.
Thank you Tom Tom for the comment. Yes its still got some life in it so its going to be used till death. But I might replace the engine before then.
I used a Sears mower for 30 years and never changed the oil. Started on first or second pull always. It's now 40 and still being used by second owner. Had to get new mower because self propelled function no longer worked and parts were not available.
Wow that's amazing. Thank you Steven Sievert for the comment I appreciate it
good for parts but I noticed that the bolt for the air cleaner was different and wonder if the original was removed or lost and ran without an air cleaner and that would mess up an engine
You are absolutely correct about the air cleaner. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
Easy for me. Just replace the mower. The newer mowers may have more power and cut better. Besides, I love to purchase new power equipment.
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
I'd probably take the head off and inspect the bore & valves, also make sure the valve timing is 100% (sometimes the cheap plastic cam lobes slip a little and the valves don't seal perfectly on the compression stroke). If the cylinder walls aren't scored up and the valves are sealing I'd probably clean the head and the valves thoroughly, install a new head gasket, warm it up and change the oil to straight 30 weight like the manual says to do then re-check the compression. Might even put a little Lucas oil treatment in it to help improve the seal. If the cylinder walls are scored then it's a parts engine, go get a Harbor Freight Loncin engine and call it a day.
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it. All those are great options.
I like tearing into 'em! I want to see what failed. If it was mine, I'd probably repair it or repower it with a good used engine.
It will probably be empowered. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
I'd take head off check cylinder wall, if scored it would be done, if its rings and valves I'd maybe repair it.
those are great options with this engine. thanks for the comment I appreciate it.
Why is the lawn mower not starting?
Its worn out due to poor maintenance. It did eventually start but it's real tough
How you change the oil on this model I can’t find a drain plug
you have to tip the mower on its side
I'd start by changing the oil to Delo and see how that did. Delo, being diesel formula is a high detergent, high dispersant lube that keeps the insides clean and crud non-settling so it gets drained out instead of making sludge and the thicker viscosity helps the engine run cooler and also reduce the metal to metal contact by having a thicker film of oil between surfaces. One of my 85 mowers, the 11 horse Briggs on the old 38 inch cut rider smokes but has never fouled a plug like that did and always starts right up in spite of low compression. I always run stuff just to see how it's going to do and act later on if it needs something. That gives stuff to straighten out if it can. Thanks and Blessings!
interesting idea.
Rebuild
Thank you Wesley Hoehn for the comment I appreciate it
Take it for external parts for other jobs
Thank you Leo Ramirez for the comment. Yes that's a great idea
i have a mower that when it pulls it makes this weird moving noise
Thank you for the comment. Does it actually start and make the noise or does it make the noise while just pulling it?
@@HomeGaragechannel when trying to pull it
@@SamOverby hmm the bottom end of the engine might be knocking. Have you checked the oil?
@@HomeGaragechannel i saw a big ass hole on the side what ever that means
but the rope stills pulls just fine
Price on new Piston and rings?
about 100 dollars for pair but it is not in good condition so not worth the fix
you are absolutely correct
I would give it to you and buy a new one. Lol.
Thanks man for the gift. I have a couple of ideas for it.
The modern Briggs engines claim that you don’t have to replace your engine oil, they claim all you have to do is check and fill. That is a really bad idea, your mower will only work for three years at best if you follow those guidelines. I am sure they just want it to break down so you will buy another one from them. Don’t follow those guidelines and you will get much more seasons out of your machine
You are completely right. They just want the engine to last a set amount of time.
The stamp on that engine says March 2013. That oil was probably never changed even once.
If I liked the Quantum engines a little better I'd take the time to put in new rings and hone the cylinder. However, my preferred fix is to scrap them and get a Honda GCV160 instead.
nice choice. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it.
I had the exact same mower, and the flywheel shattered and destroyed the whole engine
Woah I've never seen that before.
Hey Google can you find out what type of oil a self propelled Snapper takes the oil is in the back of it
hey Google, what Is the model and serial number for my snapper mower?
I would pull the head and check the cylinder bore. If the bore would live, I would replace the ring and possibly the piston, hone it out and reassemble. However you could probably find a used mower for very little that needs far less work.
unfortunately I'm afraid what I would find, would not be good.
@@HomeGaragechannel I understand. It doesn’t take much to pull the head though. It could be just a stuck ring. You can get a cheap inspection camera that plugs into your phone on eBay. Just put it in the spark plug hole.
Since it is a flathead, I would take it apart and put new rings in it I have a quantum bridge and Stratton. The connecting rod is bad so I’m gonna order another one and put in it.
good idea
Storage for parts
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
Depending on what else is wrong with the machine I would check on the prices to rebuild after I checked the cylinder walls. If not worth the investment then take it apart and save the good parts and chuck the rest. Or give it to someone I don't like. hahaha
Thank you D Butler for the comment. Yes either a rebuild or replace the engine.
Is replace the machine. You gotta know when to move forward and I also hate having issues mid season. That’s for amateurs.
Very true.
Bad news: maybe it's compression issues
it definitely has something to do with it
If nothing else it would be used as a parts unit! Rebuild would happen if I really needed that eng.
Thanks for the comment I appreciate it. It will be used till it pops.
If i were to fix a mower in such a condition like that snapper mower i would drainthe old oil, tear the engine apart and replace the piston rings and when i would get that done i would make sure to give it a great maintance which not only includes changing the oil but also replacing the air filter depending on it's condition and also change the transmission oil and service the drive wheels if it's an self propelled mower like our husqvarna lc 247 sp and depending on their air filter if it is a foam air filter which our 1970 norlett mower and 1999 husqvarna 252rx trimmer uses i usually blow out any dirt in it and reuse it where as with an paper air filter which our Husqvarna 345FR trimmer and Husqvarna lc 247 SP mower uses i replace them when the condition is bad 😄 always give your equipment or vehicle an excellent annual service 😄 the better you service your vehicle or small engine equipment and take care of it the longer it will last and the less the repair and cost will be to keep it going 😄
very good point.
Poor engine sounded like it was whining when trying to start.....
Yes its definitely in rough shape.
well in this throw away society...put it on the curb...so I can get it, put new rings in it, put new wheels on it and flip it for $150 bucks.
You are absolutely correct. Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
I’d agree too. I love flipping equipment. Sadly those wheels range from $30-50. And by the time you pull out the cylinder and do all the work, you’re quite invested in it.
Stay driving her until she’s beth
I will thank you
@@HomeGaragechannel 😂😂
Give it away
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it and yes its gone.
Ditch it. Too many better options. Also on the air filter I hit them with a shop vac fairly frequently and only replace every few years.
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it
If it ain't broke don't fix it run it till is in the ground
I happen to agree with you.
I like the channel keep up a work
I would get rid of it....sad because Snapper mowers are expensive
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it. Yes snapper isn't cheap.
Oil is the life blood of the engine that why you should change it put a new engine on it
You are absolutely correct. Once it pops I'll make a video replacing the engine. Thanks for the comment.
@@HomeGaragechannel any time at least the mower frame is still.in.great shape
@@robertmailhos8159 yes I agree with you.
@@HomeGaragechannel i have a husquvarna awd mower paid $533.93 for it at lowes love it it has a honda 190 cc engiine with auto choke
That's a great mower.
Leave it alone n run it til the wheels fall off of it
will do, thank you John Baker
Oh my, the breather is howling. Piston blow by, and I’m only 1 minute in.
When someone says it ran last week, Or a year ago, they forget or lie to you
Parts mower.
Not worth fixing.
Thank you Jim S for the comment. You are completely correct.
Give it away. Or take it to the repair man to see if he would take a little off the price of another good used one.
Thanks Booths Wattha for the comment. Its savable but its going to cost a bit.
Junk👍👍👍
thank you for the comment I appreciate it.
Since it is a true Briggs & Stratton I would rebuild it The Chinese knock off‘s I don’t know I will probably send the Chinese motors down the street
that makes sense
That was about pointless. I thought you were going to repair. This was only about a 6 minute video. Would have been nice if you would have showed us how to help those wheels in this video. i guess your low on content and need to save that info for a future video? What did i just watch?! lol.!!!
There are more videos after this on the repair of this mower if you want to watch and comment on them too. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Most people don't.
Not worth fixing its a cheap mower to replace.
Thank you for the comment I appreciate it. Yes its definitely expendable.
Give it away and buy a new one. Not worth the work to rebuild it.
You are absolutely correct.