Bending over the forearm cut!! I’m am not gong to miss that! But then again, I never miss any of your videos, because I always want to start with excellence.
So great as always! With your experience as a teacher, you manage to answer 1000 questions that I wouldn't have even thought of. Thanks for the detailed test. I'm really looking forward to trying this out myself now!
tip for coloring epoxies, add the tint to the resin, mix, then add in hardener and mix. this allows for time to mix in the color well without cutting in to the working time.
So sweet brother! I'm torn...the "natural" looking ones are really nice looking, but you know I'm a sucker for the metallic stuff. (Hello "Barbie Blue Sparkle"!!!) I like 'em all. With that particular piece of wood, the gold you chose does look fantastic.
if you do any more tests, you should try some of that pearl powder I sent you! It does so great in epoxy and is the highest quality pearl pigment you can get! Just a suggestion. Killer video regardless.
If using pearl, less is more. I've tried this many times and pearl powder works best when you use just enough to get the epoxy opaque while keeping it translucent. I think you'll be surprised how much difference it makes. Again, suggesting my friend. ✌️
Great video as always Steve!! I seem to remember Fodera and I believe Alembic would have some kind of black veneer between the top and back (or core) of their basses. I was wondering if that was a died wood veneer or some kind of plastic. Rockler had black died veneer last I checked so I thought that might be it. Thanks much!!
It looks like some of the pores around the cracks are also filled with the gold epoxy. Might be cool to pore fill the whole top like that so the pores in the grain sparkle as well.
This is the video I've been waiting for!! Thanks a bunch for doing this one Steve. You and your videos are such an amazing resource for the community. Now that the cracks are filled, and sanded back to raw wood, of course the walnut exposes its open pores again. Will you ultimately be going for a high gloss finish? If so, would you use the same epoxy for pore filling (with scrape method application), or a different product altogether (like a simtec 28x50 or aqua coat)? Also, if this were hypothetically a maple burl top (i.e. much lighter in color), what option do you think you would have chosen?
I plan to seal with Simtec. I'm a huge fan of polyester coatings. I like contrast for crack filling. Something that stands out...yet compliments. It is all about the personal taste of the builder...or the customer. Testing in scrap wood is the key...as the answer is often obvious.
I think there are many ways to get the job done. However, it this case I don't think that CA would add any benefit. I like that the epoxy had more wood to penetrate and the texture for the epoxy to hold on to. But experiments will often prove theories.
I know it's a year later. With epoxies, you have to make sure when using a scale, 1:1 means weight also. Some epoxies will say 1:1 by volume. Like West system epoxies, are 1:1, and they mean one pump of resin and 1 pump of hardner. The pumps dispense the correct amounts of both resin and hardner. When mixing without the pumps and depending on the hardner, it can be 5:1, or 3:1, and will differ by weight or volume. Also, a mistake some people make is, they add the resin, the hardner, and the color or media together,, then mix. It's very important to mix the resin and hardner thoroughly, wait a few minutes, then add the media. Epoxy doesn't dry, it cures, like you said. It's an exothermic reaction.
I tried to fill some fretless slots with pearl mica power and ca glue, and it didnt work super great.. be careful with that baking soda, it can age the wood cause chemical reaction
This Strat will be the no-pickguard, rear cavity version...like our templates as seen here... maximumguitarworks.com/products/mgw-acrylic-template-system-h-s-h-strat-rear-rout-set
Bending over the forearm cut!! I’m am not gong to miss that! But then again, I never miss any of your videos, because I always want to start with excellence.
46 minutes!! Damn the YT metrics!! Thank you for doing proper duration videos....and the humor.
The walnut is so pretty, and the choice of the gold was spot on, going to look great - cheers from Canada
Steve that Gold foil fill looks fantastic on that Top
Thanks. I love it...need to finish that guitar and video series!
That top clamping jig is magic! Thanks for showing all the different options. The final result looks great!
I really enjoyed the statement that we as humans are not perfect. Almost philosophical. Thanks for this excellent video.
Thanks Wolfgang. Sorry took me so long to reply. I fight against social media...crazy for a guy with a RUclips channel. ;-)
Nice transformation!
Great video Steve!
Again, another good video Steve!
That is stunning!
So great as always! With your experience as a teacher, you manage to answer 1000 questions that I wouldn't have even thought of. Thanks for the detailed test. I'm really looking forward to trying this out myself now!
Hope all is well with you Thomas.
I wasn't sure I would like this but I really do. Much cooler than one of those epoxy table deals.
Oh and the Peanut Butter gag was brilliant
Looks great.
tip for coloring epoxies, add the tint to the resin, mix, then add in hardener and mix. this allows for time to mix in the color well without cutting in to the working time.
True fact...especially the resins that cure faster.
Excellence again!
Try to salvage some of the cutoffs, to book match sideways, to cap the headstock to match!
So sweet brother! I'm torn...the "natural" looking ones are really nice looking, but you know I'm a sucker for the metallic stuff. (Hello "Barbie Blue Sparkle"!!!) I like 'em all. With that particular piece of wood, the gold you chose does look fantastic.
Golden Steve, lol
Great info
if you do any more tests, you should try some of that pearl powder I sent you! It does so great in epoxy and is the highest quality pearl pigment you can get! Just a suggestion. Killer video regardless.
If using pearl, less is more. I've tried this many times and pearl powder works best when you use just enough to get the epoxy opaque while keeping it translucent. I think you'll be surprised how much difference it makes. Again, suggesting my friend. ✌️
Great video as always Steve!! I seem to remember Fodera and I believe Alembic would have some kind of black veneer between the top and back (or core) of their basses. I was wondering if that was a died wood veneer or some kind of plastic. Rockler had black died veneer last I checked so I thought that might be it. Thanks much!!
binging again
what do you use on an old spruce top?
It looks like some of the pores around the cracks are also filled with the gold epoxy. Might be cool to pore fill the whole top like that so the pores in the grain sparkle as well.
Could be cool. The options are pretty much endless.
This is the video I've been waiting for!! Thanks a bunch for doing this one Steve. You and your videos are such an amazing resource for the community.
Now that the cracks are filled, and sanded back to raw wood, of course the walnut exposes its open pores again. Will you ultimately be going for a high gloss finish? If so, would you use the same epoxy for pore filling (with scrape method application), or a different product altogether (like a simtec 28x50 or aqua coat)?
Also, if this were hypothetically a maple burl top (i.e. much lighter in color), what option do you think you would have chosen?
I plan to seal with Simtec. I'm a huge fan of polyester coatings.
I like contrast for crack filling. Something that stands out...yet compliments. It is all about the personal taste of the builder...or the customer. Testing in scrap wood is the key...as the answer is often obvious.
Have you yet posted the laminate top arm contour bend video? If so pls help me find it.
Also, creamy or chunky/Skippy or Jif?
ruclips.net/video/qwil_YHMAaU/видео.html
It is about half way through this very long video.
Would it be better to put a thin layer of the ca to seal the crack andcthen proceed to fill it?
I think there are many ways to get the job done. However, it this case I don't think that CA would add any benefit. I like that the epoxy had more wood to penetrate and the texture for the epoxy to hold on to. But experiments will often prove theories.
I know it's a year later.
With epoxies, you have to make sure when using a scale, 1:1 means weight also. Some epoxies will say 1:1 by volume. Like West system epoxies, are 1:1, and they mean one pump of resin and 1 pump of hardner. The pumps dispense the correct amounts of both resin and hardner. When mixing without the pumps and depending on the hardner, it can be 5:1, or 3:1, and will differ by weight or volume.
Also, a mistake some people make is, they add the resin, the hardner, and the color or media together,, then mix. It's very important to mix the resin and hardner thoroughly, wait a few minutes, then add the media. Epoxy doesn't dry, it cures, like you said. It's an exothermic reaction.
top tip. Make extra epoxy and fill silicon, bite-size, chocolate moulds with it. Let it cure and you have guitar knobs that match the filled cracks!
I tried to fill some fretless slots with pearl mica power and ca glue, and it didnt work super great.. be careful with that baking soda, it can age the wood cause chemical reaction
Yeah, epoxy seems to be much better to stuff like that.
Its a shame that the Stratocaster electronic/pick guard will cover up so much of that character. But that looks awesome.
This Strat will be the no-pickguard, rear cavity version...like our templates as seen here...
maximumguitarworks.com/products/mgw-acrylic-template-system-h-s-h-strat-rear-rout-set