How To Design a 3D Printed Overlapping Blade Mechanical IRIS in Fusion
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- Опубликовано: 17 янв 2025
- In our third video we are going to start looking at Mechanical Iris designs with overlapping blades. The type we will model in this video is probably the easiest one to understand but it will not close entirely. There are loads of variations of this design and we will focus on just the mechanics of it. If you want to make your own for 3d printing you will need to figure out how you want to hold everything together.
The version I 3d printed for the video can be found here, but could use a bit more work for better retention features or more space depending on how thick you plan to make your blades.
a360.co/4eAUazx
Great Job/Series on these Iris's.. Never paid much attention to them and they always seemed a bit rocket scientisty, but these are great tutorials you did and now you got me thinking 🤔
Thanks Billy!
Another great variation! 👍
Never thought that there are so many versions of this eye catching mechanism!
Glad you like it!
Hello!
Love the video, inspired me to do my own design.
Just wanted to ask, it looked like in the video that the blades were essentially intersecting? How would you make an iris that could overlap, as well as be physically printed? I tried some other designs and they didn't feel that great to use, sadly.
Thank you! I'm aware this came out five months ago, but I'd appreciate the help if you could reply!
yeah the tricky part with overlapping blades is their thickness. The ones in a camera iris are really thing. I found printing 1 or 2 print layers (.2 to .4mm) was the best route. The design you might want to go with (which i haven't done a video on) is something like this.
www.lomography.com/magazine/117722-making-a-diy-cardboard-aperture
It has 2 pins on the outside section. One rides in a slot and the whole thing swivels inward. Keep in mind with this and how ones in cameras work they won't lay flat. the tips will have this sort of start protrusion on them. That style is also a little bit trickier to get the shape/profile right. Will take a bit of practice. I do have plans to circle back and do more with these but it sad that it has already been 5mo :)
Good afternoon, great content seriously.
just wanted to ask referring back to your wide body kit series, would you design a bumper for someone ofcourse there will be a cost involved. thanks keep up the good work.
Possibly! It is not an easy task and there are a lot of factors involved. It would be months before I would have the time to even think about it. Feel free to email me support@caducator.com
the problem im having is when i click on the component and try to test the motion of the joints nothing happens. example 16:13 when you click and drag you see the joints move
since we did this video one of the Fusion updates pushed a "Ground to parent" that is on by default. Is there a component in your browser that has an Anchor icon? For this to work (manual drag of components) you will want to ground one component but the rest need to be driven by the joints
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign worked out perfectly thank you! another question is how did you have it so there is a black outline on all the bodies and components?
@@OfficialBloodsport hmm, I am guessing you mean the shading. You can go to display settings but that should be on by default. CTRL + 6 is the shortcut key for shaded with edges.
for me it does not let me save the extrudes as components
it does not show any option there.
Hmm. I haven't seen that one before. If you open a new file and just make a simple extrude is that option there?
Really Nice work!
I'll try to print this one later and see how it goes.
Now i have a kinda tricky question,have you seen the 2 strokes pipes? How would you approach modeling one of those?and a second question related to that,is there a way of taking the slices and unfold them to do a flat pattern and send them as a dxf to a laser cutting shop?sorry for the long question,thanks in advance
Thanks
Yeah I have had my fair share of 2 strokes. currently a ktm 250. The way they were done historically (not talking about all the pie cut ones) is with hydro forming, or hammer forming over bucks. To model one is probably going to be done with loft and a centerline path, but there is a bit of math involved. I used to make spacers for pipes at the head for yz 250s. 50mm spacing from the head changed the hit of the power band. On my ktms i actually have a bit more control with power valve springs and preload, but on a design where you don't have easy control over that the distance from the piston, the shape of the expansion chamber and location of the "stinger" where it necks back down are super critical.
If i remember right there are some calculators online where you can put in some basic parameters for the bore, rpm ranges etc.
As for making them. I did a video awhile back on making a buck for a fender.
ruclips.net/video/2sLDPpolLpA/видео.html
I would likely do something like this but you would need to do planes along the centerline path of the loft and cut a bunch of circles, then build a centerline path out of wood for the expansion chamber.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign thanks a lot for the detailed anwser!
@@nahuelise4055 My short answer suggestion... just call Mitch at PC and order one 😂
@@billyfrank6318 He can make a custom pipe just with his mind he is that good :)
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign kinda related,theres a way to save several flat patterns in a single DXF file?
Can you make a video on how to make a surfboard in fusion 360
are you trying to make one or just model something? I am not a surfer but I know the shaping of the board is critical and i don't have enough knowledge on the subject to know the shapes well.
@@LearnEverythingAboutDesign yes I’m trying to make one but I’m just stuck on trying to figure out the best design/modeling process to make a basic surf board shape and then make changes after
@@gagechamberlain7245 My guess would be cross section lofts from front to rear. Similar to how a boat hull or airplane wing is made.