Was watching on your channel and thought I'd offer 2 possible solutions to the heater box problem. First and simplest is to use clip nuts after you remove the remnants of the old captive nuts. Second option is to use a rivnut of appropriate size, which is basically a pop rivet with a threaded center, that replaces the old captive nut. Both methods have worked for me on other projects in past.. hope that helps.
I did the same modification to the heater pipe, mine was to account for a pair of logo'd rocker cover bolts. Their OD was a tad larger than the original. Good luck on feed back regarding the heater box mounting...
Glad I came across you, nice to see another MG returning to the road. I have a 74 Roadster in the same colour as yours. In terms of the bullet connectors, I always put a male on the positive and female on the negative to stop accidentally connecting back to front. Also, rivnuts are brill, you can get all sizes. Keep up the good work 👍
Hi mate, so heater box.....bane of my recent lock down life. On deciding to take my shabby looking box out for a refurb (Jubilee GT) I had the problem of one bolt snapping on my and the other just giving up and not wanting to move. To this end I had to come up with a neat plan that was going to secure the front edge on my box without having a number of old holes. I thought bout the self tapping option but instead went for 2x heli-coils that could take a M5 or 6 (cant remember off the top of my head) and some loctite. Yes you are right there isn't much meat to hold a heli-coil but to give me a little more to play with I added a length of right angle metal over those existing/new holes (sprayed BRG obviously), drilled additional holes in that and bob is your uncle as they say. Its in, secure and that piece of angle just neatly covers up the front edge and the old bolts (which obviously I trimmed down out the way. I did attempt to drill out for a short period but that wasn't going well so I gave up). I also added just a thin length of foam underneath like around the heater and brake pedal box so as to have a nice fit, no metal on metal. As for getting the box in with the new rubber seal etc I am looking forward to see how easy you make it look because the air was blue under my bonnet. I tried to add a photo on here, but failed. Thanks.
Well done, I'm enjoying this series. I have a 65 Roadster with O/D and love the little thing. I've just restored the Smiths heater box these past few days and are experiencing same issue with you with the bolt holes. I was considering Paul Murphy suggestion however you are hooped if you ever want to remove the unit in the future. I tried Pauls method on another captive nut situation and the the nut spun away from the contact surface and created many headaches whilst addressing the issue. I'm still considering my options and will be reading suggestions here. Cheers again
Thanks for the comment. I've not bought a rivet tool so will give it a try. It'll be in the next film so you can see how I get on. Thanks for subscribing.
I always thought that my fuel pipe that fits to the rocker cover was incorrectly manufactured. It looks just like yours. I had assumed that the kink was originally meant to go around the filler cap.
Similar to others recently purchased a 1978 B, interested in how you go here. Would have been good to see the strip down and then the rebuild however in your situation not possible.. I thought the kink in the heater pipe was for the breather pipe which seems to be an option to have one or not, could be for expansion however not sure about that one. Good project, very interesting. Thank you..
For the heater box captive nuts, could proper sized nuts be epoxyed to the originals and use longer bolts? It's not a stress point and wouldn't require much torque. Just a thought.
That's what I thought, except I used the word Araldite which shows how old I am. You'd preferably use the bolts to draw the nuts into tight contact on the underside, to replace the captive nuts. ps. A bit surprised you didn't set the valve clearance on this unknown engine while you had the rocker cover off. Maybe that's just me.
Or.... cut two strips of sheet steel, and from the bolt holes on the heater box mark the places for the nuts. Drill the holes in the steel strips and attach the nuts to the strips. The strips complete with nuts can then be attached to the car with spot welds or even self-tapping screws, because they don't have to be very strongly fixed because the bolts will hold it all firm. I think using strips of metal will be less 'fiddly' to handle. Good luck.
Does the heater pipe have a kink in it so it fits around the filler cap somehow or do you have to turn and fit the rocker box with the filler at the rear. Have you not purchased or have a manual for the car so things like this can be rectified easily I would never attempt such a rebuild without one unless I'd rebuilt a few before hand. I owned a 71 MGB GT 40 years ago which finally needed some restoration work to be able to sell it after owning it for 5 years. I'm about to buy another one for a retirement project, hence your channel.....
I don't know if Rivet Nuts are available in the UK, but I have used them successfully for what you need to do on the heater box mount. I think they should be available on Amazon. Here's a link to the manufacturer: www.rivetnutusa.com/rivnut-rivet-nut/
im 3 yrs late but this mite help someone you could try sanding real good then putting JB weld on captured nuts in heater core frame when old one need replacement j
Was watching on your channel and thought I'd offer 2 possible solutions to the heater box problem. First and simplest is to use clip nuts after you remove the remnants of the old captive nuts. Second option is to use a rivnut of appropriate size, which is basically a pop rivet with a threaded center, that replaces the old captive nut. Both methods have worked for me on other projects in past.. hope that helps.
Just found you and have watched all the posts. Looking forward to seeing the progress and the final product.
The bend in the pipe is there for expension en shrinking of the pipe since its fixed between two bolts.
Hi just bought an MGB, love your work here its explained very well, for a novice like myself.
I did the same modification to the heater pipe, mine was to account for a pair of logo'd rocker cover bolts. Their OD was a tad larger than the original. Good luck on feed back regarding the heater box mounting...
Thanks Terry, great to hear from you!
Enjoying the rebuild. Keep going!! Very informative.
Again, loving this..
Love that rocker cover!
Glad I came across you, nice to see another MG returning to the road. I have a 74 Roadster in the same colour as yours.
In terms of the bullet connectors, I always put a male on the positive and female on the negative to stop accidentally connecting back to front.
Also, rivnuts are brill, you can get all sizes.
Keep up the good work 👍
Hi mate, so heater box.....bane of my recent lock down life. On deciding to take my shabby looking box out for a refurb (Jubilee GT) I had the problem of one bolt snapping on my and the other just giving up and not wanting to move. To this end I had to come up with a neat plan that was going to secure the front edge on my box without having a number of old holes. I thought bout the self tapping option but instead went for 2x heli-coils that could take a M5 or 6 (cant remember off the top of my head) and some loctite. Yes you are right there isn't much meat to hold a heli-coil but to give me a little more to play with I added a length of right angle metal over those existing/new holes (sprayed BRG obviously), drilled additional holes in that and bob is your uncle as they say. Its in, secure and that piece of angle just neatly covers up the front edge and the old bolts (which obviously I trimmed down out the way. I did attempt to drill out for a short period but that wasn't going well so I gave up). I also added just a thin length of foam underneath like around the heater and brake pedal box so as to have a nice fit, no metal on metal. As for getting the box in with the new rubber seal etc I am looking forward to see how easy you make it look because the air was blue under my bonnet. I tried to add a photo on here, but failed. Thanks.
Why not use the larger self-tapping bolts for the heater box. The kink in the pipe is to allow the choke cable to run over it without contact.
Well done, I'm enjoying this series. I have a 65 Roadster with O/D and love the little thing. I've just restored the Smiths heater box these past few days and are experiencing same issue with you with the bolt holes. I was considering Paul Murphy suggestion however you are hooped if you ever want to remove the unit in the future. I tried Pauls method on another captive nut situation and the the nut spun away from the contact surface and created many headaches whilst addressing the issue. I'm still considering my options and will be reading suggestions here.
Cheers again
Thanks for the comment. I've not bought a rivet tool so will give it a try. It'll be in the next film so you can see how I get on. Thanks for subscribing.
Nice project mate. Bought a B myself few months ago, that could do with a face lift. Good luck from Aus.
Thanks, you too!
I always thought that my fuel pipe that fits to the rocker cover was incorrectly manufactured. It looks just like yours. I had assumed that the kink was originally meant to go around the filler cap.
In Hull you say? Look forward to seeing this out and about!
Similar to others recently purchased a 1978 B, interested in how you go here. Would have been good to see the strip down and then the rebuild however in your situation not possible.. I thought the kink in the heater pipe was for the breather pipe which seems to be an option to have one or not, could be for expansion however not sure about that one. Good project, very interesting. Thank you..
For the heater box captive nuts, could proper sized nuts be epoxyed to the originals and use longer bolts? It's not a stress point and wouldn't require much torque. Just a thought.
Great idea Paul, I'll have a look and see if I can make that work. Thank you.
That's what I thought, except I used the word Araldite which shows how old I am. You'd preferably use the bolts to draw the nuts into tight contact on the underside, to replace the captive nuts.
ps. A bit surprised you didn't set the valve clearance on this unknown engine while you had the rocker cover off. Maybe that's just me.
Or.... cut two strips of sheet steel, and from the bolt holes on the heater box mark the places for the nuts. Drill the holes in the steel strips and attach the nuts to the strips.
The strips complete with nuts can then be attached to the car with spot welds or even self-tapping screws, because they don't have to be very strongly fixed because the bolts will hold it all firm.
I think using strips of metal will be less 'fiddly' to handle.
Good luck.
Does the heater pipe have a kink in it so it fits around the filler cap somehow or do you have to turn and fit the rocker box with the filler at the rear. Have you not purchased or have a manual for the car so things like this can be rectified easily I would never attempt such a rebuild without one unless I'd rebuilt a few before hand. I owned a 71 MGB GT 40 years ago which finally needed some restoration work to be able to sell it after owning it for 5 years. I'm about to buy another one for a retirement project, hence your channel.....
Perhaps you have positioned the metal pipe upside down, as the curve serves to avoid the valve cover plug
use rivit screw, it is a threaded rivet
I don't know if Rivet Nuts are available in the UK, but I have used them successfully for what you need to do on the heater box mount. I think they should be available on Amazon. Here's a link to the manufacturer: www.rivetnutusa.com/rivnut-rivet-nut/
Thanks Glenn, this is a great idea. I think the damage to holes is too much even for these but i'll check.
try rib nuts they are great.
I always thought the kink in the pipe was to allow for expansion.
Why not use plasterboard rawlplugs, metal toggles or plastic ones, available at any builders merchants.
Can you post the brand and model of your fuel pump?
same here i would like to know where he got it
@@andylee7164 same here
Any more videos coming?
that should say riv nuts
im 3 yrs late but this mite help someone you could try sanding real good then putting
JB weld on captured nuts in heater core frame when old one need replacement
j