I'm glad I'm seeing more and more people using Fusion 360 with a darker background. Maybe they'll get around to making an actual dark mode for it at some point.
This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. A 100% end to end on how to create these light boxes before printing. You have made my day/week/Christmas! And hopefully, my wife's christmas!
That’s awesome to hear. I noticed other videos where to long. So I made a short and to the point video. Make sure to subscribe for more fusion and 3D printing stuff
@@TeagueTrollbaneI always do texture. The texture plate hides the lines from the layers when printing face down and is more forgiving on little imperfections.
@@TeagueTrollbane another suggestion is to use those new PEO/PEY sheets with nice patterns, I have been using them for my lightboxes and they are coming out beautiful.
It only took a month, but I finally built a computer capable of handling Fusion 360. Thank you for the tutorial, I'm very anxious to get my light box printing!
Made a few tweaks for what I needed but this was a super useful resource for me. Quite a few things that make way more sense than the way I initially did it. Thanks for the tutorial!
Using this video to slowly learn. Had to switch some positive numbers to negative and vice versa as i run off the back not the front. Thank you for taking the time to make it
This is so awesome! Thank you! Now, one thing you didnt cover was slicer settings. What layer height? how many walls? standard or arachne wallgen? etc. Can I get a full list of all of your settings?!
Great video. Had to to it over once I finished my first one because it built the box on the wrong side of the image but followed it all the way through with zero issues besides on my part
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a question. Since you extruded the box "walls" up from the back plate and the front panel down from the top (-1), I think the edges are overlapping by 1 mm. Is that correct? Would it be better to extrude the front panel by +1 instead of -1?
Wow Dude this is an amazing tutorial. Seriously hands down saved me so much headache. Subbed and looking forward to seeing what else you have to share.
Thank you soo much for your guidance on this video. Really helped me a lot. Can I also suggest, to someone who is new to Fusion 360, the shortcuts you use or buttons to pan around, and navigate would be great if they could be mentioned, as this would really help new people like myself learn better thank you! :)
Thanks for the video. Have you any tips to stop lightbox graphics or text from popping out of the print with slightest pressure? Currently 5 layers @0.2
Great tutorial. I have made numerous light boxes from this thank you. For some reason the last two are missing a layer/color after I slice. Like if I have 3 colors and I slice I will only have 2 colors and the slice stops at layer 2. Any ideas.
Hello, Great video. I have a question when i make the 2nd offset it does not let me highlight it but cant find a white dot to see where i not connected right any ideas..Thanks
Amazing video, learning so much from you. QQ, after setting the offsets when making the first extrude when I select all it includes all three offsets but as soon as I click "E" for Extrude only my original image is selectable and it won't allow me to select the offsets like in your video. Net net is that the extruded "back/component 1" is based on the original image size and not the offsets. Thanks again for making this video!
Nice video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Anyway I'd love to see how you install the LED strip. I'm not sure why you added the small cut out at the back. Its too thin for a cable. I understand, that this cutout is for your strip, but why do you want a cutout for the strip at the back and not for the cable? Thanks!
Good tutorial. Made some mistakes but got a finished result in the 2nd print. If you could add cc to your video that would be great. Also the negative number you put were reverse for me and I was not able to import the stl into different component to paint in bambulab so I exported the back and front separately and I painted it in bambulab. Thank again for the great video!
This is a great tutorial, but I had two issues and I'm confident it's my fault because I downloaded F360 for this tutorial. My front and back are exactly the same size, so that's good, but they don't fit together snug like I thought they should. There is a lot of wiggle room between the lip and the back. The other is, my black on the front printed fantastic, but white is super stringy and you can see all the lines and there actually appears to be holes in some spots, although the back side (not on the plate) looks much better. Any suggestions for either of these?
My print ends up great but the 2 colors are somewhat separated to the point that some parts will fall off. Am using a bambu x1c. Do you know what could cause this issue ?
very helpful. if only i was actually able to make a lightbox. fusion would crash everytime i tried to offset the svg. every.single.time hopefully ill find a fix for the issue.
Excellent tutorial, have you had any issues with it being too tight or not slotting in? Or is your printer just that dialed in? Normally I have to adjust tolerences to within .2 or something for lips and all that
thanks a lot for the information, would you help me please, i did my very first light box, but... the led strip i used melted the pla box, what is the best go to led strip o light set up for this proyects
there are basically two versions of lightbotxes.. the one from the video printd with the logo side ont he bed so the whole thing is flat and textured... AND ther also is a way to print the logo lines sticking out... this one here is easy the other ones takes a lil bit more work in fusion but it lets u print the colors better... no switchitng back and forth filametns...
Thanks for the video, I was able to create a lightbox successfully using this method. When I tried a second one though, I've hit a snag with the first offset not working right. It seems to be the same problem you had when creating the second offset in this video at around 4:12, but I don't see a white dot anywhere on the line like you did in yours. Any tips on how to find why that offset line isn't creating a separate area like it should? The weird thing is, if I create the second and third offsets, those do work right, but the separate area created by the second offset line runs from the original image line to the second offset line, ignoring the first offset line.
I figured out how to find the one point that isn't working. you have to hover above every single one until it doesn't display anything extra around it.
Great video. Everything went fine till I removed it from the build plate, some of the colours separated from each other😭 Any ideas on how I can fix this issue?
Your videos are super helpful but im having a major issue i cant figure out! I followed all these steps and was left with a pretty good looking model. So i printed just a test and, it came out pretty badly. Tons of gaps and open lines/dots where the light shines through. Its kind of a mess. I dont think its a slicer issue because i have a preset saved in bambu specifically for printing lightboxes, ive printed 3 flawlessly so my settings are definitely working. So it must be a fusion issue, or maybe the original picture i used had issues? Any idea on how i can get a cleaner result
I love this video. I just have one question. Why is it when I insert my SVG, it is backwards? I try to flip it the right way, but then when I put in all of the offset measurements, instead of it measuring outward, it measures inward. Any suggestions?
I'm having the same issue, I was able to rotate the image with the little hour glasses, but my offsets are going the wrong way unless I make them negative. Which I feel like is incorrect.
Thank you for the video. I managed to create a light box but right at the end when I slice it the slicer ignores the white bit and just leaves a gap!!! Any ideas what I've done wrong. It looks fine when I colour it in Orca
Great tutorial, I'm having problems with the offsets - I think it's down to the SVG quality - and some lines are disconnected and then Fusion is giving out errors. I've also made just a rectangle-shaped box - and then added the svg to the top area and that appears to have fixed the issues I was having with the offsets but the downside is the shape is a rectangle and not a nice controller like yours. Any tips I could try?
Love the tutorial very informative. When will you have a more multi color video? I have printed a couple light boxes but the walls are part of the faceplate. Can you show how that’s done? I think this gives a cleaner look 👀
Same way just flipped. I do it this way that way if their are any issues with the face you don’t waste the filament on the walls but I can make a video where the walls are apart of the front
How do you fix jagged edges? I’ve noticed I sometimes import my SVG and the edges aren’t a perfect circle. They have jagged spots. Not sure if this is my conversion tool or the original image.
Any advice if the face doesn't sit perfectly on the base of the lightbox? One of the corners of my face keeps lifting so it lets some light leak through.
Thank-you so much for this! You actually show what you are doing and don't go too fast! I am a complete newbie to Fusion 360, so I don't know where any of the menus are, or what they all mean, but I was able to work it out from your video without much trouble. I am still having trouble with the offsets and being able to select them separately from each other, I don't know if my designs were just too complex. Do you have any tips on how to make a stand? The bottom of my design isn't flat or even, so it's going to be tricky to balance.
Glad your video helped. Unfortunately each design is different. I learned some designs I need to add a stroke in photoshop to make ones solid boarder. I’m making a video on stands soon
@Ryanlit I might need to do that with some of the designs I want to make into lamps, I was almost to the point of freehanding the offset lines and scanning the thing. I just squared off the bottom of my lamp so fingers crossed. I just sent it printing now.
Yea a few different ways of doing it. I heard some people design in canva. I always used photoshop but if their is a free way I will explore it and make a video
@@Ryanlit there are a few free programs out there that are photoshop like, I have Krita but I use it mostly to make transparent background or resize images. I will look forward to new videos. I printed my lightbox, and it worked. I learnt that my hole for the LED strip I had was too small, but other than that, came out just how I wanted it to.
For some reason, not sure if its user error and I’m missing something, but my finished products are a mirror of what I want them to be. Whenever I extrude the negative, it puts the sketch behind the back.
Awesome video, I am going to try this out although I have to learn fusion haha. Any plans for a more complex multi color tutorial? Just wondering how much more complicated it gets if at all?
hey i seem to have a problem. The SVG im using seems to have to many curves. So when I go to outline fusion 360 just totally locks up for a good 5 to 8minutes. Do you happen to know how I can cut down in the curves on my svg?
Use a different SVG or before hitting finish sketch when svg is loaded in use the line tool and make your own outline of the svg, click finish sketch then offset that
Thanks so much, this is perfect for a noob like me haha. 1 question i have, usually when i see other lightboxes online they have a little mini stand that they sit on (depending on the shape of the box) how would i go about making a custom stand that sits perfectly flush with the model?
Utilize the offset command on the sketch from the beginning. Make a offset just the size of whatever size stand you want and square off the bottom to sit flat on a table and extrude just that piece. Then hide all other bodies/ components except that one and export. Now you have a stand that matches the contour of your box and can print it separately.
@@Brog420 I know sorry its hard to explain over text. 1. Go back to the original sketch of the whole body and click edit sketch. After you made the 3rd offset sketch of the WHOLE outline. (Note what distance you offset the 3rd, or outer most line) 2. You're going to make another offset line but don't select the whole perimeter line this time, only select a part of line on the bottom of the image (Not one of the 3 lines that you offset in the video but from the ORIGINAL imported SVG). In the example of the video, you can select the line on the bottom that goes between the 2 handles of the controller. 3. Offset this new partial line just 1-2mm PAST the distance i mentioned in step 1. Now constrain that line by drawing more lines to fill it in so that it is fully constrained. That will be the shape of your stand. Make this whatever shape you want as long as the bottom is flat. 4. Extrude that shape the same depth as your light box and you will have a stand that fits the contour of the bottom of your light box. ***This is just a rough and quick way, you can get more creative with it later. Hope this helps.
@@Brog420 One more add to Step 2 above. Depending on the shape, you won't be able to offset just a section of the line/curve. In that case, after the 3rd offset line like in the video, offset a 4TH LINE just like the others but make it 1-2mm greater than the 3rd line you offset. Then manually delete all the parts of that 4th offset line except for the parts that follow the contour of your light box on the bottom. Then follow the rest of the steps to make a square stand or whatever other shape you wish!
If anyone.can help I am having issues while printing the colors do not stick together and when they do their is still gaps between them that light can get through.
@@malcolm4k270 I highly recommend the AMS. I know some peoples budget can’t afford it. But definitely an upgrade to do if you can. So many things. I have 5 AMS units with 3 printers. 2x x1Cs with dual AMS and 1 p1s with single AMS.
Why would my version of Fusion not be seeing SVG files....they are downloaded on my drive but I go to import them but I cant not see them. I tried to change the drop down file that it was searching for and my only option is image files. Any help would be appreciated. I have the personal use license for fusion 360.
Can not click on image. You have to click on the drop down under image then click svg. If you click just image. It will only let you import png files not svg
Ok let me see if I can explain this. I do this EXACTLY how you do it except for one thing. First. I save as step. Then f3d. Step takes forever to load is why I don’t like it. Now. The one step I do after saving step and f3d. I click back ,save as mesh ,it saves as stl. The same with white then with black. I drop back.stl one plate two. black.stl and white.stl to plate one. It asks if I want to combine. Perfect. But no 5mm lip. The lip is on the back. But I had back off when I extruded the middle band to 5mm and clicked joined. I watched closely. When you extrude 5mm and click join ,black highlights. Did you highlight that? Cause my 5mm band is in a body above in the tree because we only clicked join. Not new component. I have to drag the 5mm band body to black and name it body 2 to fix it. Ok you remember I said I do exactly right? When I go the step route the 5mm band is attached to the back. Think I said that already. Really good tutorial. I’ll do it over and over to try and see what the difference is. Thank you. Doug
Super easy tutorial. Now I don't want to make this light box again if you can share the step file made by you. Little greedy but frankly I want to save my time..and spend time on your other make..
I had that issue and turned out to be an SVG file not converted right. Does fusion give an error? Also make sure its set to join or can even do new component
Whatever material you have. PLA is probably the easiest for beginners. PETG is good but it potentially strings if you don't have good filament / printer settings.
If you didn't noticed he planted the front cover face down on the plate in the slicer, which is in practice just an inversion of the object. This means everithing will turn out fine, even text. Instead of just glossing over the information in the video, pay a little bit of attention to the details. It's quite informative and filled with practical advice.
I am pretty sure you are right before you start you need to flip the image. I have watched this video a bunch and first one with text I tried it came out backwards. So pretty sure these guys haven't actually made one with text
I'm glad I'm seeing more and more people using Fusion 360 with a darker background. Maybe they'll get around to making an actual dark mode for it at some point.
Ive watched so many other tutorials and they are way harder for no reason. Thank you!
This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. A 100% end to end on how to create these light boxes before printing.
You have made my day/week/Christmas! And hopefully, my wife's christmas!
That’s awesome to hear. I noticed other videos where to long. So I made a short and to the point video. Make sure to subscribe for more fusion and 3D printing stuff
@@Ryanlit Quick question: Would you print the face on textured plate or on smooth plate?
@@TeagueTrollbaneI always do texture. The texture plate hides the lines from the layers when printing face down and is more forgiving on little imperfections.
@@TeagueTrollbane another suggestion is to use those new PEO/PEY sheets with nice patterns, I have been using them for my lightboxes and they are coming out beautiful.
This is probably the easiest tutorial I have come across. I am fairly new to Fusion so thank you! Keep up the good work. New subscriber here!!
This is so great. Thank you. This has kind of unlocked fusion for me. Didn't really get how to use it until now
Hands down the best tutorial I've seen. I feel like I finally understand, haha.
Glad to hear !
It only took a month, but I finally built a computer capable of handling Fusion 360. Thank you for the tutorial, I'm very anxious to get my light box printing!
If you don't mind me asking what did you get I'm looking to do the same. My computer works for fusion just so sloooow
Thanks! Everyone is getting light boxes for Christmas lol
Just followed along and done my own. Great video, thank you!
Made a few tweaks for what I needed but this was a super useful resource for me. Quite a few things that make way more sense than the way I initially did it. Thanks for the tutorial!
Great tutorial! Printed a pre-made one for my daughter, and had some requests for custom boxes. Thank you!🎉
Thanks for the video. Answered a lot of questions for me. Looking forward now to watching the other vids.
Great video, definitely will subscribe for more! 👍
Using this video to slowly learn. Had to switch some positive numbers to negative and vice versa as i run off the back not the front. Thank you for taking the time to make it
Thanks for putting this video together, Ryan. Was looking for something as detailed as yours.
Perfection, this was extremely helpful. Thank you!
This is a great tutorial. I am going to give this a try and see what I can produce. Thank you for taking the time.
This is so awesome! Thank you! Now, one thing you didnt cover was slicer settings. What layer height? how many walls? standard or arachne wallgen? etc. Can I get a full list of all of your settings?!
Great video. Had to to it over once I finished my first one because it built the box on the wrong side of the image but followed it all the way through with zero issues besides on my part
thank for the help ! best tutorial i've seen for light boxes !
Mate, your name is no lie. You are actually lit! Only thing now is to show us how to connect the LEDs 🤣
Ryan, love the message man. it is definitely all about having fun.
Exactly!
The best tutorial!!! Thanks.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a question. Since you extruded the box "walls" up from the back plate and the front panel down from the top (-1), I think the edges are overlapping by 1 mm. Is that correct? Would it be better to extrude the front panel by +1 instead of -1?
Wow Dude this is an amazing tutorial. Seriously hands down saved me so much headache. Subbed and looking forward to seeing what else you have to share.
Thank you soo much for your guidance on this video. Really helped me a lot. Can I also suggest, to someone who is new to Fusion 360, the shortcuts you use or buttons to pan around, and navigate would be great if they could be mentioned, as this would really help new people like myself learn better thank you! :)
Thanks for the video. Have you any tips to stop lightbox graphics or text from popping out of the print with slightest pressure? Currently 5 layers @0.2
Great tutorial. I have made numerous light boxes from this thank you.
For some reason the last two are missing a layer/color after I slice. Like if I have 3 colors and I slice I will only have 2 colors and the slice stops at layer 2. Any ideas.
Hello, Great video. I have a question when i make the 2nd offset it does not let me highlight it but cant find a white dot to see where i not connected right any ideas..Thanks
Why dont you use inkscape? One of my favorites for svgs :) also nice job 1:35
I use photoshop but was trying to show a simple way to do it without needing software other than fusion
I successfully drew this and it’s printed and lit up. Thank you
Glad it worked out!
This is an amazing tutorial thank you
Amazing video, learning so much from you. QQ, after setting the offsets when making the first extrude when I select all it includes all three offsets but as soon as I click "E" for Extrude only my original image is selectable and it won't allow me to select the offsets like in your video. Net net is that the extruded "back/component 1" is based on the original image size and not the offsets. Thanks again for making this video!
FUCKING PERFECT!!!!! Thank you so much for your help. I made a box for my wife for a Christmas present~
Glad it worked for you!
Fantastiche! Great video, cheers. Liked and subbed 👍
Nice video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Anyway I'd love to see how you install the LED strip. I'm not sure why you added the small cut out at the back. Its too thin for a cable. I understand, that this cutout is for your strip, but why do you want a cutout for the strip at the back and not for the cable?
Thanks!
Mine fits just enough for the cable to slide in and be a good tight fit
Good tutorial. Made some mistakes but got a finished result in the 2nd print. If you could add cc to your video that would be great. Also the negative number you put were reverse for me and I was not able to import the stl into different component to paint in bambulab so I exported the back and front separately and I painted it in bambulab. Thank again for the great video!
This is the best tutorial I have seen, but what if I have an image that is round and I want to put it in a square box, if that makes sense?
So I just end up making a square in fusion and putting imagine inside then use cut tool to remove circle outline
This is a great tutorial, but I had two issues and I'm confident it's my fault because I downloaded F360 for this tutorial. My front and back are exactly the same size, so that's good, but they don't fit together snug like I thought they should. There is a lot of wiggle room between the lip and the back. The other is, my black on the front printed fantastic, but white is super stringy and you can see all the lines and there actually appears to be holes in some spots, although the back side (not on the plate) looks much better. Any suggestions for either of these?
Excellent video, it helped me a lot, it is my first lamp, thank you
Glad it helped you!
My print ends up great but the 2 colors are somewhat separated to the point that some parts will fall off.
Am using a bambu x1c. Do you know what could cause this issue ?
awesome video, helped a lot!!
Great vid. Thanks for sharing your process.
Thanks for watching!
Soooooo helpful. TY!!!!
very helpful. if only i was actually able to make a lightbox. fusion would crash everytime i tried to offset the svg. every.single.time hopefully ill find a fix for the issue.
Excellent tutorial, have you had any issues with it being too tight or not slotting in? Or is your printer just that dialed in? Normally I have to adjust tolerences to within .2 or something for lips and all that
Most of my light boxes snap together well. For ones that have some play I just glue together.
Love you videos they are very easy to follow. 👌
Glad you like them!
thanks a lot for the information, would you help me please, i did my very first light box, but... the led strip i used melted the pla box, what is the best go to led strip o light set up for this proyects
I use hot glue
there are basically two versions of lightbotxes.. the one from the video printd with the logo side ont he bed so the whole thing is flat and textured... AND ther also is a way to print the logo lines sticking out...
this one here is easy the other ones takes a lil bit more work in fusion but it lets u print the colors better... no switchitng back and forth filametns...
Thanks for the video, I was able to create a lightbox successfully using this method. When I tried a second one though, I've hit a snag with the first offset not working right. It seems to be the same problem you had when creating the second offset in this video at around 4:12, but I don't see a white dot anywhere on the line like you did in yours. Any tips on how to find why that offset line isn't creating a separate area like it should?
The weird thing is, if I create the second and third offsets, those do work right, but the separate area created by the second offset line runs from the original image line to the second offset line, ignoring the first offset line.
I have the same problem with all the dots being black but this is on the first offset.
I figured out how to find the one point that isn't working. you have to hover above every single one until it doesn't display anything extra around it.
Which LED strips do you use? Install video?
Great video. Everything went fine till I removed it from the build plate, some of the colours separated from each other😭 Any ideas on how I can fix this issue?
Increase wall overlap. Also make sure there is not separation when you slice it
Your videos are super helpful but im having a major issue i cant figure out! I followed all these steps and was left with a pretty good looking model. So i printed just a test and, it came out pretty badly. Tons of gaps and open lines/dots where the light shines through. Its kind of a mess.
I dont think its a slicer issue because i have a preset saved in bambu specifically for printing lightboxes, ive printed 3 flawlessly so my settings are definitely working. So it must be a fusion issue, or maybe the original picture i used had issues? Any idea on how i can get a cleaner result
I do a flow rate of 1.04 for light boxes to prevent gaps. Make sure flow rate is 1.04-1.08 and Arachne is on with 24% wall overlap
Nice! Can you show the lights you used / installed and the finished product.
www.tiktok.com/t/ZPRcaRW5B/
Great tutorial. The offsets really screwed me up. You can’t see an unfinished line/node unless you’re in a dark environment on fusion
Great video! Do you have any issues with the front plate fitting into the back part with no tolerance offset?
Sometimes I do and I just add a dab of glue to close it
I love this video. I just have one question. Why is it when I insert my SVG, it is backwards? I try to flip it the right way, but then when I put in all of the offset measurements, instead of it measuring outward, it measures inward. Any suggestions?
I'm having the same issue, I was able to rotate the image with the little hour glasses, but my offsets are going the wrong way unless I make them negative. Which I feel like is incorrect.
Thank you for the video. I managed to create a light box but right at the end when I slice it the slicer ignores the white bit and just leaves a gap!!! Any ideas what I've done wrong. It looks fine when I colour it in Orca
Ok never mind. I was being a bit stupid and set the white extrude to 0.06 instead of 0.6. Hopes this helps anyone who makes the same daft mistake
Glad you got it figured out! Happens to the best of us sometimes !
Great tutorial, I'm having problems with the offsets - I think it's down to the SVG quality - and some lines are disconnected and then Fusion is giving out errors. I've also made just a rectangle-shaped box - and then added the svg to the top area and that appears to have fixed the issues I was having with the offsets but the downside is the shape is a rectangle and not a nice controller like yours. Any tips I could try?
Yea I can help you out. Reach out to on IG or maker world. Bearded Dad Designz
Is there any reason not to do one extrusion at the beginning and Shell it?
Love the tutorial very informative. When will you have a more multi color video? I have printed a couple light boxes but the walls are part of the faceplate. Can you show how that’s done? I think this gives a cleaner look 👀
Same way just flipped. I do it this way that way if their are any issues with the face you don’t waste the filament on the walls but I can make a video where the walls are apart of the front
How do you fix jagged edges? I’ve noticed I sometimes import my SVG and the edges aren’t a perfect circle. They have jagged spots. Not sure if this is my conversion tool or the original image.
I normally turn sharp edges into curves.
Hello, could help me? I can't doubt click and highlight all the lines to do the offset
Any advice if the face doesn't sit perfectly on the base of the lightbox? One of the corners of my face keeps lifting so it lets some light leak through.
I glue my light boxes together.
Thank-you so much for this! You actually show what you are doing and don't go too fast! I am a complete newbie to Fusion 360, so I don't know where any of the menus are, or what they all mean, but I was able to work it out from your video without much trouble. I am still having trouble with the offsets and being able to select them separately from each other, I don't know if my designs were just too complex. Do you have any tips on how to make a stand? The bottom of my design isn't flat or even, so it's going to be tricky to balance.
Glad your video helped. Unfortunately each design is different. I learned some designs I need to add a stroke in photoshop to make ones solid boarder. I’m making a video on stands soon
@Ryanlit I might need to do that with some of the designs I want to make into lamps, I was almost to the point of freehanding the offset lines and scanning the thing. I just squared off the bottom of my lamp so fingers crossed. I just sent it printing now.
Yea a few different ways of doing it. I heard some people design in canva. I always used photoshop but if their is a free way I will explore it and make a video
@@Ryanlit there are a few free programs out there that are photoshop like, I have Krita but I use it mostly to make transparent background or resize images. I will look forward to new videos. I printed my lightbox, and it worked. I learnt that my hole for the LED strip I had was too small, but other than that, came out just how I wanted it to.
I can’t highlight offset vs the image.
Nice video, Go Herd! :)
Thanks! 😁
When I import my SVG it has a bunch of green circles connecting lines???
The white is 0.6mm?
Ryan, for some reason when I click the eye for sketch one, the whole image disappears?? what am I doing wrong???
Make sure you click finish sketch before importing svg
For some reason, not sure if its user error and I’m missing something, but my finished products are a mirror of what I want them to be. Whenever I extrude the negative, it puts the sketch behind the back.
Also, in Bambu, how do you fill the gaps for the actual image? On my image, it has so many holes it won’t look all that great.
Awesome video, I am going to try this out although I have to learn fusion haha. Any plans for a more complex multi color tutorial? Just wondering how much more complicated it gets if at all?
It gets complicated with multiple different sketches on one. Just got a new mic so working on video soon and some coasters
cant get it to not attach to sketch 1 (mac).. i got it now i cant get the offset to go around the whole object
Can you add the link for the leds that tou use? Thanks! Also do you just glue them inside?
I just use 9ft LEDs for behind the TV and no need for glue. I have a few I cycle through such as Govee
What kind of lights for inside
😮
hey i seem to have a problem. The SVG im using seems to have to many curves. So when I go to outline fusion 360 just totally locks up for a good 5 to 8minutes. Do you happen to know how I can cut down in the curves on my svg?
Use a different SVG or before hitting finish sketch when svg is loaded in use the line tool and make your own outline of the svg, click finish sketch then offset that
Noce and to the point. But make your screen full screen. Makes.ot easier.to see.if its larger.
I started zooming in on the items I click now.
video is amazing
Glad you enjoyed it. Tried to make a simple to the point video for people that’s not over and hour long.
Thanks so much, this is perfect for a noob like me haha. 1 question i have, usually when i see other lightboxes online they have a little mini stand that they sit on (depending on the shape of the box) how would i go about making a custom stand that sits perfectly flush with the model?
Utilize the offset command on the sketch from the beginning. Make a offset just the size of whatever size stand you want and square off the bottom to sit flat on a table and extrude just that piece.
Then hide all other bodies/ components except that one and export. Now you have a stand that matches the contour of your box and can print it separately.
@@caseymiller8404 that honestly sounds confusing but, i also think i could figure it out thanks !
@@Brog420
I know sorry its hard to explain over text.
1. Go back to the original sketch of the whole body and click edit sketch. After you made the 3rd offset sketch of the WHOLE outline. (Note what distance you offset the 3rd, or outer most line)
2. You're going to make another offset line but don't select the whole perimeter line this time, only select a part of line on the bottom of the image (Not one of the 3 lines that you offset in the video but from the ORIGINAL imported SVG). In the example of the video, you can select the line on the bottom that goes between the 2 handles of the controller.
3. Offset this new partial line just 1-2mm PAST the distance i mentioned in step 1. Now constrain that line by drawing more lines to fill it in so that it is fully constrained. That will be the shape of your stand. Make this whatever shape you want as long as the bottom is flat.
4. Extrude that shape the same depth as your light box and you will have a stand that fits the contour of the bottom of your light box.
***This is just a rough and quick way, you can get more creative with it later. Hope this helps.
@@caseymiller8404 thanks alot !
@@Brog420 One more add to Step 2 above. Depending on the shape, you won't be able to offset just a section of the line/curve. In that case, after the 3rd offset line like in the video, offset a 4TH LINE just like the others but make it 1-2mm greater than the 3rd line you offset. Then manually delete all the parts of that 4th offset line except for the parts that follow the contour of your light box on the bottom. Then follow the rest of the steps to make a square stand or whatever other shape you wish!
Ryan can you do a video on stands? Thank you
I can add it to my list of video ideas.
Any chance of a custom name light box tutorial?
I am working on some more this week
If anyone.can help I am having issues while printing the colors do not stick together and when they do their is still gaps between them that light can get through.
Is this possible to do with no ams?
Maybe if you split the model into pieces and attach them after printing separately?
No.
There is a way to do it. However I’m not sure. You would have to set a pause for each layer that changes colors.
@@Ryanlit I just ordered the ams a couple days ago can’t wait to do multiple color with ezz
@@malcolm4k270 I highly recommend the AMS. I know some peoples budget can’t afford it. But definitely an upgrade to do if you can. So many things. I have 5 AMS units with 3 printers. 2x x1Cs with dual AMS and 1 p1s with single AMS.
Why would my version of Fusion not be seeing SVG files....they are downloaded on my drive but I go to import them but I cant not see them. I tried to change the drop down file that it was searching for and my only option is image files. Any help would be appreciated. I have the personal use license for fusion 360.
Can not click on image. You have to click on the drop down under image then click svg. If you click just image. It will only let you import png files not svg
Ok let me see if I can explain this. I do this EXACTLY how you do it except for one thing. First. I save as step. Then f3d. Step takes forever to load is why I don’t like it.
Now. The one step I do after saving step and f3d. I click back ,save as mesh ,it saves as stl. The same with white then with black. I drop back.stl one plate two. black.stl and white.stl to plate one. It asks if I want to combine. Perfect. But no 5mm lip. The lip is on the back. But I had back off when I extruded the middle band to 5mm and clicked joined. I watched closely. When you extrude 5mm and click join ,black highlights. Did you highlight that? Cause my 5mm band is in a body above in the tree because we only clicked join. Not new component. I have to drag the 5mm band body to black and name it body 2 to fix it.
Ok you remember I said I do exactly right? When I go the step route the 5mm band is attached to the back. Think I said that already. Really good tutorial. I’ll do it over and over to try and see what the difference is. Thank you. Doug
the middle offset if 5mm i join and the lip is not there when i drag all my mesh stls to bambu
I don’t export as stls you do it by components like the video shows
I'm must have missed something. I'm only able to create one offset from the original line. It wouldn't allow two
Always use the original line for the offset. Don’t offset from an offset
Super easy tutorial. Now I don't want to make this light box again if you can share the step file made by you. Little greedy but frankly I want to save my time..and spend time on your other make..
Don’t know how explain. I’ve started fresh 3 times. My first and second line won’t shade. I don’t see any breaks.
Feel free to reach out to me here instagram.com/ryanlitschauer_photography?igshid=OGQ5ZDc2ODk2ZA%3D%3D&
I am stuck at the 8:00 minute mark, when I hit ok it just goes away and doesn't make the lip.
I had that issue and turned out to be an SVG file not converted right. Does fusion give an error? Also make sure its set to join or can even do new component
Can I commission you to make a lightbox for me?
Can you make coaster flat please 🙏 tutorial this video Helps a lot 🎉😊
Yes I plan do be posting how to do flat coasters and 3D style coasters
@@Y33HawGamer thanks
@@CHACMOLTso I replied with an old account. Working on coaster video. Had to order a new microphone
What kind of material
Whatever material you have. PLA is probably the easiest for beginners. PETG is good but it potentially strings if you don't have good filament / printer settings.
Pla or pla plus
why isn't there an easier way?
this doesn't take into consideration light boxes with writing. Following this tutorial your writing will be backwards!
Never had an issue with writing being backwards
If you didn't noticed he planted the front cover face down on the plate in the slicer, which is in practice just an inversion of the object. This means everithing will turn out fine, even text. Instead of just glossing over the information in the video, pay a little bit of attention to the details. It's quite informative and filled with practical advice.
I am pretty sure you are right before you start you need to flip the image. I have watched this video a bunch and first one with text I tried it came out backwards. So pretty sure these guys haven't actually made one with text