+Second Sun Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
@@TRQ of course! I did have a question for you, my mustang is making a popping sound when I turn my wheels, but its only coming from the left front wheel, any ideas?
+Second Sun There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Once you know the cause, we'll be happy to see if we carry the parts and how-to videos needed for your repair.
@@SecondSunofficial I had that issue but the sound was coming from the passenger side. The issue was a damaged race on the top of the strut. The strut assembly turns as the wheel turns and there is a ball bearing race that allows the assembly to turn. I replaced the entire strut assembly but you can just replace the strut top mounting assembly. You would need to compress the spring to get the assembly off. hope this helps!
+@DiscyBoyo3000 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Video is informative but also very misleading. There is a cut/edit or swapping of the shock absorber with a regular bolt for the trunk torque of top bolt section. I can assure anyone watching this video, torquing that top bolt is NOT that simple. I have done the rear absorbers twice now, on my car ('07 GT). Instead of marking the shock at curb weight and transferring that mark to the new shock, I count the threads showing above the top shock bolt on the current installed and match with the new shock. Yes, you need to ensure the thread and design lengths are equal or you wont be at an exact 1:1. Both times I have done this, the top of the shocks were identical. The OEM rear or Motorcraft are superior in design both in the bushings (scored to prevent vacuum, formed with rounded edges on all sides, and do not lose function when matching previous absorbers position), circumference of absorber, and top shock bolt nut. The OEM's top bolt are a smaller 13mm or 15mm but the nut is a free-spin permanently attached type so you aren't going to have issues with forcing a 19mm nylon nut that has been over filled with nylon and therefore almost impossible to spin down on the threads of the shock absorbers top end where you tighten the bolt in the trunk. A 250ft/lb torque 1/2" air Impact Driver is NOT sufficient enough for this task either. You will NEED a 500ft/lb or better air driver with the appropriate tank, regulator, filter, Highflow fittings, and air tool oil. Or spend the money on the Motorcrafts and you wont have this problem.
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You guys, are great. Looks simple but when u try to do it ur self,it turns into a nightmare. .thanks .
Another very informative video from TRQ!! Before I start a replacement I always check for the appropriate video from TRQ...thank you so much!!!!
2:54 I have to add a technical critique, when he said flippy do thing, some people might say it's a cattywampus, but to me it's more of a curtailer
Love these videos, please don't stop making them! They're great!!
+Second Sun Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
@@TRQ of course! I did have a question for you, my mustang is making a popping sound when I turn my wheels, but its only coming from the left front wheel, any ideas?
+Second Sun There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Once you know the cause, we'll be happy to see if we carry the parts and how-to videos needed for your repair.
@@SecondSunofficial I had that issue but the sound was coming from the passenger side. The issue was a damaged race on the top of the strut. The strut assembly turns as the wheel turns and there is a ball bearing race that allows the assembly to turn. I replaced the entire strut assembly but you can just replace the strut top mounting assembly. You would need to compress the spring to get the assembly off. hope this helps!
The first time I have ever seen someone torque a shock bolt.
Thank you for this video. Others made it seem more complicated.
Great video, what type of lube do you prefer on the upper shock bolt?
Looks so easy. Ima do this next weekend!!!!
+@DiscyBoyo3000 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Very well detailed video thank you and Subscribed
is thread locker needed on either bolts/nuts?
Very informative and it helped me a lot.
torqued 👍🏼
When torquing the upper mounting nut. How do you do it if there is no space for the locking pliers under the car
Way easier looking than the front that's for sure
How else can you keep the strut from spinning when you torque it down at the top.
Video is informative but also very misleading. There is a cut/edit or swapping of the shock absorber with a regular bolt for the trunk torque of top bolt section. I can assure anyone watching this video, torquing that top bolt is NOT that simple.
I have done the rear absorbers twice now, on my car ('07 GT). Instead of marking the shock at curb weight and transferring that mark to the new shock, I count the threads showing above the top shock bolt on the current installed and match with the new shock. Yes, you need to ensure the thread and design lengths are equal or you wont be at an exact 1:1. Both times I have done this, the top of the shocks were identical. The OEM rear or Motorcraft are superior in design both in the bushings (scored to prevent vacuum, formed with rounded edges on all sides, and do not lose function when matching previous absorbers position), circumference of absorber, and top shock bolt nut. The OEM's top bolt are a smaller 13mm or 15mm but the nut is a free-spin permanently attached type so you aren't going to have issues with forcing a 19mm nylon nut that has been over filled with nylon and therefore almost impossible to spin down on the threads of the shock absorbers top end where you tighten the bolt in the trunk. A 250ft/lb torque 1/2" air Impact Driver is NOT sufficient enough for this task either. You will NEED a 500ft/lb or better air driver with the appropriate tank, regulator, filter, Highflow fittings, and air tool oil. Or spend the money on the Motorcrafts and you wont have this problem.
So you telling me you loosen the top bolt without it spinning.
What kind of lubricant is used?
do you need an aligment after replacing loaded struts and rear shock absorbers?
2006 Ford Mustang Rear Sway Bar Bushing Sway Bar Links
Torqued!