I just did mine... took me about 3.5 hours to do both on the ground in driveway. I was solo. To get bolts out without moving steering rack, swing entire shock and spindle assembly forward. I also squeezed back the steering boot. Took only a few minutes to wiggle bolts out after I did so. I took nothing else (other than mentioned in video) apart. I should add that a helper to realign ball joint into spindle makes the job a lot easier.
This is a good video with good advice, but it's only going to take you three hours if you have a lift, good lighting, and car that is entirely free of corrosion. It took me about 3 1/2 hours to remove one control arm. [Part of it was that I had to move the steering rack.] Installation was pretty quick. The second one went a lot faster. One of the things that takes a long time is the flag bolts at the rear of the arm. The Ford shop manual says you can invert the bolts so the nuts are on the bottom. That makes it possible to use a socket, and it dramatically speeds installation.
Thanks Bill. GREAT video. Very helpful. And the 2 wrench trick - where has that been all my life??? To avoid removing the rack, I took the clamp off the boot on the tie rod and compressed the boot (I wedged a 6" piece of 2x4 between the boot and the frame to hold it). Then I loosened the nut on the tie rod (at the wheel) and let it drop down about 1/2 inch (do not remove the nut completely, just thread it up the shaft about 1/2 inch). Find a RUclips video on how to remove a tire rod. Thanks again.
A TECH TIP FOR ALL AS I JUST DID THS - 1) YOU DO NOT have to loosen the rack for the long bolt 2) Have a helper and it goes very smooth 1) Remove the control arm to spindle bolt first but don't try to pop the arm out of the spindle yet 2) Loosen almost all the way the two rear bolts (yes, you have to use the two wrench trick for now, no way around it but it works) 3) Loosen the large bolt but don't try to remove yet 4) NOW pull the control arm to spindle (ball joint) out now that you have some play to move the control arm 5) Remove the spring clip holding the rubber tie rod boot (slide it down ) and CLIP the one time boot clamp near the inner tie rod and slide the boot down out of the way - THIS IS GOING TO HELP YOU GET THE LONG CONTROL ARM BOLT OUT 6) Two people - One person pushes the whole spindle assemble AWAY from the bolt (Grab the caliper for grip and PUSH ). The other person wiggles the long bolt out while you hold the assemble away 0 Note, the bolt WILL slide out under ball of the inner tire rod 7) now you can remove the two remaining back bolts all the way and remove the control armTo reassemble - Follow in reverse order EXCEPT THIS KEY NOTE When you are putting the long bolt back in make sure you don't insert the ball joint end in until you have TORQUED the bolt (again you are going to PUSH the assemble away to get a torque wrench in The two back bolts are a pain in the original orientation BUT Ford says flip upside down with the NUTS on tope and bolts underneath. This is great because it now allows you to get a torque wrench on them for proper toque. Its easy if as I say, you have a helper and don't be afraid to do this upgrade.
Robert Arco I'm a Pro Mechanic read your procedure I did it about same way. Couple things I Did different on the Steering Rack Arms I removed both Clamps on the Rack Boot than slide the boot to outer joint Removed Nut outer joint to steering knuckle you can press it out special tool or place brass hammer top of outer joint stud and with another big hammer hit the brass hammer hard take few times if joint has play or boot torn replace outer joints now you can get the front control arm bolt out with ease without man handling Strut assembly. you can reuse boot and clamps or use Zip Ties but if there worn or split replace the Rack boots. Also on the rear control arm nuts on the inside nut access threw engine compartment I used long 3 ft 1/2 in extension 1/2" impact swivel joint and 1/2" long 21mm socket and impact gun takes those nuts off real fast beats two wrench method outer nut use ratchet wrench. I'm installing both Prothane bushings front control arm been a pain takes a lot of time the rear bushing is a mother F to remove and the bushing is not solid rubber it's almost hallow once you get the rubber part off the big Steel sleeve is stuck on control arm I have used heat or cut a groove in sleeve also using 20 ton shop press. replacing blower ball joint with Moog w/ grease fitting. I'll follow up on that procedure later
For those wondering about having to move the steering rack or not - if you remove the top not for the tie rod ends then turn the wheel to full lock it should give you enough room to remove the bolt or another way is if you're doing inner tie rods when you have them removed and then turn the steering wheel to full lock there will be plenty of room to get those bolts out on both sides
The best tutorial video and also a lot tips. I learned a lot from this tutorial. now im able to repair my own car and also to share my videos with all you.
Just did my 2010 Mustang V6. You have to take off the outer tie rod bolt and unscrew the inner tie rod with a wrench to get access to the front bolt. It's too long to remove it with the steering to the right or left method or keeping the wheel unlocked
Can ANYONE answer about getting that back bolt off without removing the rack ? Bill did it okay yet ; so many said they had to unbolt the rack ...so ? Can it be done without unbolting the rack?
I had to remove the inner tie rod from the rack and pinion to get that bolt out. Now my steering wheel isnt straight. I dont know how, I didnt change anything, just unscrewed it and screwed it back in until it stopped.
Hey man your videos are alot of help but I’m working on the end which has the tire rod. and every time I push down on it the control arm goes with it and it takes at least 300 pounds just to move it one notch what could be going on here
Is there a "preload" required during reassembly? I've viewed a few lower control arm procedures and some say it's mandatory and others don't mention it. Help?
I have an 08 GT, I have the suspension clunk in the front when going over bumps. I've replaced both struts with complete strut kit, sway bar links, and sway bar bushings. And the clunk is the same and just as loud. I've been told told that if I replace both lower control arms, this would take care of the clunk. Any help would be great. Thanks..
Hey guys Tha KS so much for adding this video, I just changed the control arms myself, about 3 hr and some knee caps later, it's done, question, after putting the car on the ground and driving it a bit do I need to raise it back up and re tighten all bolts? I put the main bolt at 130 lbs ft torque as I read somewhere else. But the big 21 mm bolts and the bolt behind the brake I tighten as much as I could on the location. They are. Any advice on those? Thanks again for the know how sharing.
I had these installed on my '06 GT 2yrs ago and ever since I get a "popping/clunk" sound from the passenger side when the suspension gets compressed. It usually happens when making left turns . I took it back and had the LCA replaced again, but its still there. I have also replaced the strut mounts with the GT500 upgrades when I replaced the struts last yr. I have also replaced the sway bar and end links, and the inner & outer tie rod ends; basically the entire front suspension. Still have the issue. I have read on several forums of similar issue and a Ford TSB. Has anyone else experienced this issue?
I Have this same issue on a 05 V6. All I have done is outer tie rods which helped for awhile but its back to clunking and shaking badly when making a sharp left turn at speeds higher than 50 mph. It also shakes the wheel pretty good when this happens. I Read on forums that it could be control arm bushings or inner tie rod but I haven't replaced those yet.
I gave up trying to figure it out. I've replaced every wearable part on the front suspension and still its there. The clunk/pop I get only happens when making left turns such as in to a drive way.
Check the sway bar bushings that's where my noise was coming from they were both ripped through for some reason. Spent 1400 with Ford as they were chasing the sound it would make over lets say like a speed bump just horrible sound. They nver figured it out so I went under there and found it myself after just sick of listening to it.
jrwou1 i got the EXACT same issue! i replaced everything up front...Gt500 strut mounts, Ford racing a arms, inner and outer tie rods, and struts. mine also only makes thay clank - pop noise when turning left on driveways or just off drive ways. one thing left to change: front sway bar bushings. i hope it's it. did you ever find the issue?
Amazing that these upgrades do not have grease fittings. even the premium ones will dry out and wear out. I will be putting Detroit Axle greaseable ball joints in but will be removing the arms to do the pressing. much easier than fumbling around with the strut, brake caliper and bracket. need to be bead blasted and refinish anyway. I know all the old wives' tales about them not being replaceable.
من در ایران زندگی میکنم و برای نگهداری و تعمیرات موستانگ مدل ۲۰۱۳ مشکلات زیادی دارم ولی با ویدیوهای شما تتها تونستم موفق به نگهداری ماشینم باشم. اذت ممنونم مرد
BILL !! :-) So how do you get those back bolts to torque spec using an open end wrench or do you just muscle them on and call it good? Serious question...thanks
I find it a little weird when I clicked on a totally different video description and keep going back to this? Well maybe not totally because it was a lower control arm but not on a Ford strange🤔
@@carterbusby239 aww man, sorry to hear that, thats what i was worried about too, was fuckin mine up, but i got her done, i was like the video makes it look easy, which i really aint
I was under the impression ford uses torque to yield hardware for their suspension hardware looks like the old stuff was reused Shouldn’t an instructional video at least make a note to install new critical fasteners ?
3:27 "You don't have to worry about the nut on the other side, as it's welded to the frame". For the love of all that is holy, WHY???? You could just hit that from the back with no problem if it was a free bolt.
Yeah I'm doing this right now and I'm mad they kinda skip over how hard it is to take that bolt out, it gets all the way to where it's about to pull out and I cant get it, I will try it with a pry bar tmrw
Gotta love how the cut every time there's a hard part
Facts
Right the 18 bolt is tough to get out even with the wheel turnt
Thanks for not abandoning us early S197 owners!
GA08GT dude ur car looks like mine hahah
I just did mine... took me about 3.5 hours to do both on the ground in driveway. I was solo.
To get bolts out without moving steering rack, swing entire shock and spindle assembly forward. I also squeezed back the steering boot. Took only a few minutes to wiggle bolts out after I did so.
I took nothing else (other than mentioned in video) apart.
I should add that a helper to realign ball joint into spindle makes the job a lot easier.
This is a good video with good advice, but it's only going to take you three hours if you have a lift, good lighting, and car that is entirely free of corrosion. It took me about 3 1/2 hours to remove one control arm. [Part of it was that I had to move the steering rack.] Installation was pretty quick. The second one went a lot faster. One of the things that takes a long time is the flag bolts at the rear of the arm. The Ford shop manual says you can invert the bolts so the nuts are on the bottom. That makes it possible to use a socket, and it dramatically speeds installation.
Yeah I had to invert mine in order to be able to torque them to spec.
Super Informative thank you! You just convinced me to save 400-600 in labor.
Thanks Bill. GREAT video. Very helpful. And the 2 wrench trick - where has that been all my life??? To avoid removing the rack, I took the clamp off the boot on the tie rod and compressed the boot (I wedged a 6" piece of 2x4 between the boot and the frame to hold it). Then I loosened the nut on the tie rod (at the wheel) and let it drop down about 1/2 inch (do not remove the nut completely, just thread it up the shaft about 1/2 inch). Find a RUclips video on how to remove a tire rod. Thanks again.
Best video on changing these control arms out... I pulled the rack, good to know you may not have to do that. Thanks !!!
A TECH TIP FOR ALL AS I JUST DID THS - 1) YOU DO NOT have to loosen the rack for the long bolt 2) Have a helper and it goes very smooth 1) Remove the control arm to spindle bolt first but don't try to pop the arm out of the spindle yet
2) Loosen almost all the way the two rear bolts (yes, you have to use the two wrench trick for now, no way around it but it works)
3) Loosen the large bolt but don't try to remove yet
4) NOW pull the control arm to spindle (ball joint) out now that you have some play to move the control arm
5) Remove the spring clip holding the rubber tie rod boot (slide it down ) and CLIP the one time boot clamp near the inner tie rod and slide the boot down out of the way - THIS IS GOING TO HELP YOU GET THE LONG CONTROL ARM BOLT OUT
6) Two people - One person pushes the whole spindle assemble AWAY from the bolt (Grab the caliper for grip and PUSH ). The other person wiggles the long bolt out while you hold the assemble away 0 Note, the bolt WILL slide out under ball of the inner tire rod
7) now you can remove the two remaining back bolts all the way and remove the control armTo reassemble - Follow in reverse order EXCEPT THIS KEY NOTE
When you are putting the long bolt back in make sure you don't insert the ball joint end in until you have TORQUED the bolt (again you are going to PUSH the assemble away to get a torque wrench in
The two back bolts are a pain in the original orientation BUT Ford says flip upside down with the NUTS on tope and bolts underneath. This is great because it now allows you to get a torque wrench on them for proper toque. Its easy if as I say, you have a helper and don't be afraid to do this upgrade.
Robert Arco I'm a Pro Mechanic read your procedure I did it about same way. Couple things I Did different on the Steering Rack Arms I removed both Clamps on the Rack Boot than slide the boot to outer joint Removed Nut outer joint to steering knuckle you can press it out special tool or place brass hammer top of outer joint stud and with another big hammer hit the brass hammer hard take few times if joint has play or boot torn replace outer joints now you can get the front control arm bolt out with ease without man handling Strut assembly. you can reuse boot and clamps or use Zip Ties but if there worn or split replace the Rack boots. Also on the rear control arm nuts on the inside nut access threw engine compartment I used long 3 ft 1/2 in extension 1/2" impact swivel joint and 1/2" long 21mm socket and impact gun takes those nuts off real fast beats two wrench method outer nut use ratchet wrench. I'm installing both Prothane bushings front control arm been a pain takes a lot of time the rear bushing is a mother F to remove and the bushing is not solid rubber it's almost hallow once you get the rubber part off the big Steel sleeve is stuck on control arm I have used heat or cut a groove in sleeve also using 20 ton shop press. replacing blower ball joint with Moog w/ grease fitting. I'll follow up on that procedure later
Bill, Thanks for the reply. Your help is greatly appreciated! 👍🏻
For those wondering about having to move the steering rack or not - if you remove the top not for the tie rod ends then turn the wheel to full lock it should give you enough room to remove the bolt or another way is if you're doing inner tie rods when you have them removed and then turn the steering wheel to full lock there will be plenty of room to get those bolts out on both sides
i love how they skip the hard important part of getting the front bolt .
You pull like hell on tie rod and use a few nice words. Bolt comes out.
likewise. i can get access to the bolt with a sock and extension, but impact won't budge it, neither will a breaker bar.
He said turn the wheel. To lock. Plenty of room for the front bole after that.
The video is 7 minutes but this took me 7 hours 💀
I’ll leave this to the pros next time
just did a 2010, so far one of the easiest cars I worked on. Way easer to remove the TRE to get enough room to remove the front bolt.
I noticed that you didn’t Torque anything, is some blue loctite and a heavy hand close enough for govt work?
is amazing how a lift like that make your job so much easier ! I am here destroying my back under the car lol
The best tutorial video and also a lot tips. I learned a lot from this tutorial. now im able to repair my own car and also to share my videos with all you.
Anybody else notice him using the ball joint fork at 2:09 even though he never mentioned it or lists it in the required tools?
We often use tools you don't necessarily need but make life easier.
Thanks for the video install. Was a little tricky at first but easy.. from Puert Rico. Thanks...
I just did mine right now,.Took me since 1:30 to 6:30 🤔.... But then again, I replaced the whole front end.
Great job, guys as always guys. A big brake upgrade demo would be great on ecoboost, hoping that's on your plans to shoot.
I just did mine the same way he did without taking the steering rack off and it was hard as hell to get that through
Hey TJ..sounds like you did get the bolt out though...any suggestions ?
tj hoff - disconnect the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle and this will allow the inner tie rod to swing away from the bolt....
Just did my 2010 Mustang V6. You have to take off the outer tie rod bolt and unscrew the inner tie rod with a wrench to get access to the front bolt. It's too long to remove it with the steering to the right or left method or keeping the wheel unlocked
Thank you for the very clear easy to understand instructions as I'm doing mine tomorrow, how necessary is it for an alignment ?
is this the same procedure for 2011-2014 mustang?
Do you have to grease the ball joints before installing the control arms? I don't see a grease fitting anywhere.
Can ANYONE answer about getting that back bolt off without removing the rack ? Bill did it okay yet ; so many said they had to unbolt the rack ...so ? Can it be done without unbolting the rack?
Robert Arco running into this problem myself currently on my 2014. Can’t get the one bolt by the steering rack out
Thank you. May God in Christ bless and keep you.
Thanks.. for good procedures. Very helpful
Is the 2011-2014 install very similar?
Are there torque specs for the bolts when you reinstall them ?
No
Nice work great video 👍🏿
Thanks 👍
What happened to tighten on curb height?
I had to remove the inner tie rod from the rack and pinion to get that bolt out. Now my steering wheel isnt straight. I dont know how, I didnt change anything, just unscrewed it and screwed it back in until it stopped.
Hey man your videos are alot of help but I’m working on the end which has the tire rod. and every time I push down on it the control arm goes with it and it takes at least 300 pounds just to move it one notch what could be going on here
On that outer tie rod end … is that cover supposed to be on it??
Is there a "preload" required during reassembly? I've viewed a few lower control arm procedures and some say it's mandatory and others don't mention it. Help?
+Jim Farrell Ford never mentioned it being necessary and we have never done it on any installs.
I know this is old, but for anyone looking. The FSM 100% states to preload before torquing the front bolt on the arm.
Awesome video!!!!!
I see a lot of people say they cant quite get that last bolt free...what if you moved the boot down toward the tie rod ?
I have an 08 GT, I have the suspension clunk in the front when going over bumps. I've replaced both struts with complete strut kit, sway bar links, and sway bar bushings. And the clunk is the same and just as loud. I've been told told that if I replace both lower control arms, this would take care of the clunk. Any help would be great. Thanks..
Inner tie rods man , I thought the same and it ended up being the inner tie rods.
The bolt isn't hard just turn wheel opposite of side being worked on
Im actually about to replace my control arm as well because when I turn the steering wheel my ball joint pops out of its socket
If you turn the steering wheel to the opposite side it's easier to get front bolt
Hey guys Tha KS so much for adding this video, I just changed the control arms myself, about 3 hr and some knee caps later, it's done, question, after putting the car on the ground and driving it a bit do I need to raise it back up and re tighten all bolts? I put the main bolt at 130 lbs ft torque as I read somewhere else. But the big 21 mm bolts and the bolt behind the brake I tighten as much as I could on the location. They are. Any advice on those? Thanks again for the know how sharing.
What is a reverse-L front lower control arm? It's what my 2008 Bullitt has, and I can't seem to find any info or further description of it.
What is the size of the bolt that goes through the bushing? I had to cut it out. And where can I get one?
Needs more music, I can still hear the verbal instructions.
Rock on
I don’t think the music is loud enough.
does this require wheel alignment afterward?
I would get it checked out, if your originals were badly worn your alignment could be off.
Do you need a alignment after?
I like your work. Should be wearing safety glasses though
I had these installed on my '06 GT 2yrs ago and ever since I get a "popping/clunk" sound from the passenger side when the suspension gets compressed. It usually happens when making left turns . I took it back and had the LCA replaced again, but its still there. I have also replaced the strut mounts with the GT500 upgrades when I replaced the struts last yr. I have also replaced the sway bar and end links, and the inner & outer tie rod ends; basically the entire front suspension. Still have the issue. I have read on several forums of similar issue and a Ford TSB. Has anyone else experienced this issue?
I Have this same issue on a 05 V6. All I have done is outer tie rods which helped for awhile but its back to clunking and shaking badly when making a sharp left turn at speeds higher than 50 mph. It also shakes the wheel pretty good when this happens. I Read on forums that it could be control arm bushings or inner tie rod but I haven't replaced those yet.
I gave up trying to figure it out. I've replaced every wearable part on the front suspension and still its there. The clunk/pop I get only happens when making left turns such as in to a drive way.
Check the sway bar bushings that's where my noise was coming from they were both ripped through for some reason. Spent 1400 with Ford as they were chasing the sound it would make over lets say like a speed bump just horrible sound. They nver figured it out so I went under there and found it myself after just sick of listening to it.
jrwou1 i got the EXACT same issue! i replaced everything up front...Gt500 strut mounts, Ford racing a arms, inner and outer tie rods, and struts. mine also only makes thay clank - pop noise when turning left on driveways or just off drive ways. one thing left to change: front sway bar bushings. i hope it's it. did you ever find the issue?
Never did. Already did sway bar bushings too.
Amazing that these upgrades do not have grease fittings. even the premium ones will dry out and wear out. I will be putting Detroit Axle greaseable ball joints in but will be removing the arms to do the pressing. much easier than fumbling around with the strut, brake caliper and bracket. need to be bead blasted and refinish anyway. I know all the old wives' tales about them not being replaceable.
Are they lowers front of the car?
من در ایران زندگی میکنم و برای نگهداری و تعمیرات موستانگ مدل ۲۰۱۳ مشکلات زیادی دارم
ولی با ویدیوهای شما تتها تونستم موفق به نگهداری ماشینم باشم.
اذت ممنونم مرد
I replace one of them and the tie rods I wanted to get a alinement but I wanted to buy the other control arm would it make a difference
I replace one u think I should do the other side would it matter
@@remybrooklyn8075 for a alignment and the sake of if your doing one side just do the other so you don’t have it work later on
Okay thanks
i already installed Steeda Bumpsteer Kit , are these front arms compatible with it ? before i spend some money on them
Its the same size as oem so i donf see why not
Getting the 2 bolts is hard asf one of then is next to the oil pan
So no torque bar?
BILL !! :-) So how do you get those back bolts to torque spec using an open end wrench or do you just muscle them on and call it good? Serious question...thanks
If you can't fit a torque wrench in you just have to get as close as you can.
How different is the install on a 2012 gt, Please help I want to do mine cause I'm getting a horrible noise
+Raf Orr For the most part it's the same install.
+Bill Tumas thank you! Btw your videos are awesome thanks
anyone else do it his way and get past the boot ? Or did you have to pull the rack? If so what year ?
Robert Arco we
These control arms are literally the same ones used on the v6 and gt. I used to make them.
Caleb Shonk so moog controls arms for a stock mustang gt are the same as ford performance gt 500 ?
And just like thst. I'm rolling
Is this fit to ford mustang 2011 v6?
Jay Exconde nope.
Torque specs?
I find it a little weird when I clicked on a totally different video description and keep going back to this? Well maybe not totally because it was a lower control arm but not on a Ford strange🤔
how much i need lower c arms
+ovniusa15 A link to our website is in the description. They are $350 pair
ok thanks
I can get that bolt out by the inner tie rod, any suggestions?
Did you manage to get it?
@@carterbusby239 yeah, i had to shimmy the bolt out and while putting pressure on the inner tire rod, was a pain in the ass but finally got it
20 savitout88 I like fucked up mine.
@@carterbusby239 aww man, sorry to hear that, thats what i was worried about too, was fuckin mine up, but i got her done, i was like the video makes it look easy, which i really aint
20 savitout88 I can’t get the control arm. Along with the outer tire rod off either
nice music
My mustang gt is squeaking I don’t is it cause of Rack opinion
Tie rod is bent
I was under the impression ford uses torque to yield hardware for their suspension hardware looks like the old stuff was reused
Shouldn’t an instructional video at least make a note to install new critical fasteners ?
My mechanic quoted me $140 per side..
Gotta say, I hate the background music on this video.
No torque specs just tighten the piss out of it. Lol. Awesome
3:27 "You don't have to worry about the nut on the other side, as it's welded to the frame". For the love of all that is holy, WHY???? You could just hit that from the back with no problem if it was a free bolt.
Yeah I'm doing this right now and I'm mad they kinda skip over how hard it is to take that bolt out, it gets all the way to where it's about to pull out and I cant get it, I will try it with a pry bar tmrw
does this require wheel alignment afterward?
Bryan Nunez although you can get away with out it I’d highly recommend it just to be on the safer side if you really love your car you’ll do it