I should not think that any woodworker requiring the precision you discussed would need plans for such a simple device. Your description of the shooting board in the video provided more than enough information for the construction.🙂🙂
@@glencrandall7051 Yes, I try to provide enough information for someone to build a project without the plans if they choose. I also like to provide the plans if someone would like to have them. Some people like having the plans in the shop with them for a quick reference. Other people get the plans not because they need them, but because they like to support the creator.
Nice video, as always. Just built my first miter shooting board last year and it is so much better than any of method of making accurate miters (like a power saw). The two differences were that I cut the miter on the platform first (I think doing it second like you can be more accurate) and my fence sits on told of the platform towards the end of my shooting board and is wider. Again, thanks for the informative and clear video.
It will cut into the shooting board at first, but just a little. The bottom of the platform and the fence extend beyond the blade and support the sole of the plane. This works because the plane blade doesn’t go all the way across the sole and through the sides. The material is removed just where the blade travels and the rest supports the plane as you use the shooting board. Hope that helps to explain it!
I built a similar jig several years ago. One hint to fine tune the angle. Fine movements of the lateral adjusting lever of a standard plane can be used to get that 45 degree angle exact. Probably can be done with the low angle plane.
Great tip! Can’t do that with a low angle jack plane though. At least not the one I have. No lateral adjustment lever at all. I really should get a couple more planes for more options. Thanks for watching!
Awesome work! I have a bunch of scrap wood I just made that I want to turn into some small boxes and this would be perfect for that. Well to help build them that is.
It will cut into the shooting board at first, but just a little. The bottom of the platform and the fence extend beyond the blade and support the sole of the plane. This works because the plane blade doesn’t go all the way across the sole and through the sides. The material is removed just where the blade travels and the rest supports the plane as you use the shooting board. Hope that helps to explain it!
You provided a very complete description of shooting board construction. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂 PS ditch the music. It is annoying.
Can you please put a link of the plane on the description? Ive always stayed away from hand planes (because I started using them before RUclips and couldn't figure them out) but I think im ready for a few including this one
Yes, you should know your tools, but also their limitations, and how those limitations can affect your work. If you aren’t building anything that requires a high degree of accuracy, then maybe a digital gauge is perfect for you. Thanks for watching!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Just an observation and some constructive criticism: when using the angle gauge, you should zero it out on the table saw surface first so that its reference is set and then check the blade tilt, otherwise it is measuring 45 degrees to level, which your saw table may not be (exactly).
No problem! The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
Ok, this really looks like an awesome tool and would like to build one but I'm confused. What keeps the shooting board itself from getting cut down by the plane also when being used?
The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig. Be sure to grab the plans with all the dimensions and step-by-step instructions! www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/products/p/shooting-board
The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig.
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
@@biscuittreewoodworksThanks, it sort of makes sence. Are you saying ........ the mouth of the plain in the sole is not accross the whole width of the sole. Lets say the mouth is accross 90% of the sole, so at each end of the mouth 5% of the sole remains, lets call each of those 5% bits of the sole 'the sholder'. In which case the first time the plain runs along the guide groove it shaves off a sliver of the groove below the sole (and the workpiece) until the lower 'shoulder' comes to slide along the lower side of the groove beneth the sole. In which case, so long as the side of plain is kept tight to its side of the groove, the blade won't shave off any more of the groove below the sole...BUt...it will shave off more of the workpiece if it is fed into the path of the blade. If correct it is very important for users to keep the side of the plain tight to its side of the guide groove. Is that correct? Alternatively.... IF the plain has a long sole THEN none of that matters, so long as the length face of the workpiece which is beind chamfered is much shorter than the sole. Wow...I hope that makes sence....
I address that more in the next video where I build a keepsake box using this jig, but basically you need to use a stop block when cutting your parts. Then at the shooting board you can count how many strokes you make so you take off the same amount from each board. Finally, you can check by holding the opposing sides back to back to check that they are the exact same length.
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
Baltic birch? Why look for that when I can go down and pick up the very wet, knotty, sappy, and warped choice pine from Home Depot? You can really show off your talent with a plain trying to work with that wood. My generation calls that sweat equity and It makes you feel like you really accomplished something!
Wouldn't the tape wear through and have to be replaced frequently? How does that build deal with the plane iron shaving down the 3/4" BB plywood deck? It will quickly change the angle at the deck, it may be a moot point, it may not. My 90 degree shooting board has a deck that is just below the iron so the only contact point with the iron is on the material to be planed.
The tape should last a while since it's just being rubbed by the side of the plane. After you add some wax it shouldn't wear away that fast. The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig. The platform and the fence have areas that won't be cut by the blade and keep the plane in position.
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
I guess I missed something, what prevents the plane from cutting into the plywood surface it is sliding on. Love the video. Nice lighting, good narration voice but the music could be somewhat lower.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback! The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig.
@biscuittreewoodworks could you give us a close up on the actual board. I'm new to this and don't quite get it. Video is cool btw. All the way from Scotland.
@@TheDocster5unfortunately not at this point. RUclips doesn’t allow me to add anything to the video or post pictures in the comments. I do have some photos and the build plans on my website. biscuittreewoodworks.com You can also use the contact form there to ask questions and I can respond to those messages with photos.
I'm a novice, but isn't the cut @3:49 a little risky? I might have started with wider stock, sneak up on the perfect 45, then the do the easy/safe 90 to width...
It's fine if you have enough stock to have a sturdy base and a good push stick. You could start with much wider stock to cut the 45, then trim off the extra width at 90.
This looks fine and should work well. But why not just use your regular shooting board with a donkey's ear attachment? That's what I did a few years ago. Works well and fewer jigs to store.
Would work fine if I had a regular shooting board and donkey ear attachment. Plus, I think the donkey ear attachments are too big and cumbersome compared to this jig. But feel free to use whichever works best for you.
You could use a track saw or a circular saw with a good guide for straight cuts. Otherwise, you can build them the same way they have for the last few hundred years which is completely by by hand using hand saws and planes.
Very extensive research which involved watching a handful of other RUclips videos and talking to several people. During this time I also learned that 97.6% of all statistics found online are made-up. Based on the comments I've gotten and the people I've talked to I'm at least 89.3% correct.
That is a good thing to keep in mind, but no I didn't calibrate to gravity. I always zero the digital gauge out on the table saw top before putting it on the blade.
The shooting board has several advantages over the table saw. First, you don't have to recalibrate the shooting board. When you move the table saw blade, you may not come back to exactly 45 and be slightly off again. Second, the shooting board won't leave burn marks, blade marks, or tearout. Third, with the shooting board you can literally take off less than 1 thousandths of an inch at a time to get your parts the exact same size. If none of those things are a concern to you, then you might not need a shooting board. I don't use it for 90% of the cuts I make. It's just for the really precise work like jewelry boxes or humidors where the tiny details matter.
The table saw generally leaves a good 45 but variances in the way you push, blade vibration, and difficult wood make minor misalignment that may not be noticeable on bigger projects but are noticeable on detailed projects. It really depends on whether or not the miter will be part of a focus point on a piece. I use the table saw for 95% of cuts but I have actually freehanding 45s with my handplane and a very good miter square.
your problem with the angle cube is probably due to you not referencing the blade angle to you table surface. If that is not done then the cube will reference the Earth's surface rather than the table surface. ALWAYS zero the cube on the table FIRST then it will always give the relative angle of the blade to the table. I have NEVER found the cube to give an incorrect angle when foll0wing this method.
@@biscuittreewoodworks If the digital cube has a resolution of 0.1° then it has an uncertainty of 0.05° which is far better than your eye can detect with that metal protractor even if the pivot is placed EXACTLY at the center of the circle and there is no parallax error, the indicator arm is straight. I just think the thumbnail is wrong, a cynical person might even suggest it is clickbait. I am not saying this applies to your channel BUT there seems to have been an explosion of 'misleading' channels posting 'dubious' content of late on YT and, while I keep adding them to the 'don't recommend' file, they seem to keep coming; I suppose that is the penalty you pay for a 'free' platform.
@@michaellinahan7740call it clickbait if you like, but before you do you should check out the specifications on the Wixey website. The accuracy is +/- 0.2 degrees. The repeatability is +/- 0.1 degrees. This combined gives you a tolerance of +/- 0.3 degrees. That’s 6X the inaccuracy you thought you were getting with this gauge. That said, if the Wixey works great for you that’s fantastic! You don’t have to change anything just because some goof on RUclips has a different method. Thanks for watching and thanks for your feedback!
Measuring the diagonals is a guarantee of square ONLY if opposite sides are exactly equal. e.g. a trapezoide has equal diagonals. That's not to take away from the top quality of your video.
I wish woodworking video guys could think of something new to tell us, this method is as old as the hills and has been done to death on youtube for years. I was watching this technique 15 years ago. It's just a rehash of some other people's videos that's been on RUclips for all those years.
It's great that you already knew about this, but from the feedback I've received, many people are just seeing this for the first time. While I try to provide content that is relevant to woodworkers of all stages, a lot of what I share is directed at helping people just getting started and haven't been consuming woodworking content for the last 15+ years like you and I have. But thanks for watching and for providing the feedback. If you have any ideas on what you'd like to see, let me know and I'll try to make a video on a more interesting topic for you!
First, win the lottery, then buy an aircraft hanger. Fill it with the most expensive, state-of-the-art woodwork machines, including dust extraction, and then make this huge, heavy shooting board. Don't worry, you'll have plenty of space to store it because you've bought the aircraft hanger. Oh, I almost forgot, you might need some hand tools too.
It might look impressive on camera, but I'm just in a regular garage. My tools are pretty basic mid-entry level and definitely on the lower cost end, some of them I bought used. I've collected them slowly over many years saving up and buying them one at a time. If you're tool envious, I"m sorry. We all start somewhere. If this is something you want to do, you'll get there one day as well. Thanks for watching, and I hope you were able to learn something from the video.
The strange thing about this video that I saw was this, you would rely on two pieces of equipment that probably cost less than fourty dollars for both pieces, rather then rely on a table saw that was probably pretty close to maybe TWENTY FIVE, TWENTY SIX, TWENTY SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARDS, That makes absolutely no sense to me.
Power tools are for ripping through material very quickly, but they aren't exactly the most accurate. Hand tools can be extremely precise and are used a lot for fine tuning joinery. I can shave off 1/1000th of an inch with a plane, but not a table saw. A good woodworker should know their tools and their limitations. Also, if you are lumping my Lie-Nielsen No 62 Low Angle Jack Plane into that $40 of equipment, then you are greatly underestimating the cost of quality hand tools! That's a $300 plane. ps. you're also about $1000 too low for the cost of that saw!
@@stainlesssteellemming3885exactly! I’d love to get a few more planes but they are so expensive! I’ll just stick with my reconditioned planes for a little while longer.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Yep, got a working set (#3-#7) of vintage Stanleys. though vintage 5 1/2's are now expensive enough to justify going for a new one. Same for my Veritas router. So, if the LN #62 has no lateral adjustment, how do you compensate for any slight skew in the blade after multiple sharpenings?
Get the plans to build your own shooting board and MORE here: www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/products/p/shooting-board
I should not think that any woodworker requiring the precision you discussed would need plans for such a simple device. Your description of the shooting board in the video provided more than enough information for the construction.🙂🙂
@@glencrandall7051 Yes, I try to provide enough information for someone to build a project without the plans if they choose. I also like to provide the plans if someone would like to have them. Some people like having the plans in the shop with them for a quick reference. Other people get the plans not because they need them, but because they like to support the creator.
Nice video, as always. Just built my first miter shooting board last year and it is so much better than any of method of making accurate miters (like a power saw). The two differences were that I cut the miter on the platform first (I think doing it second like you can be more accurate) and my fence sits on told of the platform towards the end of my shooting board and is wider. Again, thanks for the informative and clear video.
Quite a few ways you can build these, and definitely worthwhile! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Great video! Nice shooting board. Think I have run out of excuses and will have to build on with this method.
Go for it! They’re a great tool to have around the shop!
Nice Jig. But one thing I am wondering is how come the plane is not shaving material off of the shooting board ?.
It will cut into the shooting board at first, but just a little. The bottom of the platform and the fence extend beyond the blade and support the sole of the plane. This works because the plane blade doesn’t go all the way across the sole and through the sides. The material is removed just where the blade travels and the rest supports the plane as you use the shooting board. Hope that helps to explain it!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Yes that does help. I could not picture it in my mind's eye and now I get it. Thank you for that explanation.
Thank you for all your time and effort. 1in7
My pleasure!
Beautiful! I’ve never really used any planes, but I think I’d like to make this jig and get some practice. Thank you for the video!!!
Go for it! Hand tools open up a whole new world of woodworking!
Thanks. I've been looking for a miter shooting board for some time now. Great job!
Glad I could help! Be sure to grab the plans as well! www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/products/p/shooting-board
I built a similar jig several years ago. One hint to fine tune the angle. Fine movements of the lateral adjusting lever of a standard plane can be used to get that 45 degree angle exact. Probably can be done with the low angle plane.
Great tip! Can’t do that with a low angle jack plane though. At least not the one I have. No lateral adjustment lever at all. I really should get a couple more planes for more options. Thanks for watching!
Awesome work! I have a bunch of scrap wood I just made that I want to turn into some small boxes and this would be perfect for that. Well to help build them that is.
Go for it! It’s an awesome jig to have!
Great video. One question though, when sliding the plane to cut the work piece, don't you also cut into the 45 degree guide block?
It will cut into the shooting board at first, but just a little. The bottom of the platform and the fence extend beyond the blade and support the sole of the plane. This works because the plane blade doesn’t go all the way across the sole and through the sides. The material is removed just where the blade travels and the rest supports the plane as you use the shooting board. Hope that helps to explain it!
Thanks for another great video - I need to start working on my hand tool skills!
Definitely! Hand tools opens up a whole new world of possibilities!
Very well done! You really did a great job!
Thank you so much!
Best thumbnail
I thought so too, it came in dead last during my first test! Running another test now and it's #2 so far.
You provided a very complete description of shooting board construction. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂 PS ditch the music. It is annoying.
Thanks for the feedback
Yes! I LIKE it. You earned my subscription. Let's see what else you've got. Thank you very much.
Awesome, thank you!
Nice work, very informative. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Can you please put a link of the plane on the description? Ive always stayed away from hand planes (because I started using them before RUclips and couldn't figure them out) but I think im ready for a few including this one
Sure, adding it now!
Nice presentation!
Glad you liked it!
Great job. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Great job brother.
Thanks!
I've had zero issues with my digital angle meters. I guess it helps to know your tools and how to use them.
Yes, you should know your tools, but also their limitations, and how those limitations can affect your work. If you aren’t building anything that requires a high degree of accuracy, then maybe a digital gauge is perfect for you. Thanks for watching!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Just an observation and some constructive criticism: when using the angle gauge, you should zero it out on the table saw surface first so that its reference is set and then check the blade tilt, otherwise it is measuring 45 degrees to level, which your saw table may not be (exactly).
@@paulwittlock937 Absolutely agree! I always reset it to zero on the cast iron top before checking the angle of the blade. Thanks for sharing the tip!
Great video~! I'll be building one of these for sure. Not sure how this is the first video of yours that I've seen, but chalk me up as a subscriber. 👍
I been flying under the radar! Thanks for the sub and hope you enjoy the videos!
That’s really cool. Forgive my ignorance, but what keeps the plane from cutting into the jig?
No problem! The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
Ok, this really looks like an awesome tool and would like to build one but I'm confused. What keeps the shooting board itself from getting cut down by the plane also when being used?
The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig.
Be sure to grab the plans with all the dimensions and step-by-step instructions! www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/products/p/shooting-board
Very helpful, thank you. Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Good Video, Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Nice jig but doesn’t shaving also takes each time a minor part of the ply so the jig gets fast inaccurate?
The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig.
If you're planing the end grain you can wet it a little with a mister and that makes the cut much easier and also less chance of chip out.
Thanks for sharing the tip!
At 8:50 when plainig the miter on the work piece, why is the guide groove not being plained as well?
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
@@biscuittreewoodworksThanks, it sort of makes sence. Are you saying ........
the mouth of the plain in the sole is not accross the whole width of the sole. Lets say the mouth is accross 90% of the sole, so at each end of the mouth 5% of the sole remains, lets call each of those 5% bits of the sole 'the sholder'.
In which case the first time the plain runs along the guide groove it shaves off a sliver of the groove below the sole (and the workpiece) until the lower 'shoulder' comes to slide along the lower side of the groove beneth the sole. In which case, so long as the side of plain is kept tight to its side of the groove, the blade won't shave off any more of the groove below the sole...BUt...it will shave off more of the workpiece if it is fed into the path of the blade. If correct it is very important for users to keep the side of the plain tight to its side of the guide groove. Is that correct?
Alternatively.... IF the plain has a long sole THEN none of that matters, so long as the length face of the workpiece which is beind chamfered is much shorter than the sole.
Wow...I hope that makes sence....
Nice man! Great work!
Thanks!
Great tip man, I didn’t know about that.
Thanks, happy I can help!
Could you possibly make a short on how to make the conditioner for cutting boards?
Very simple! 4 parts mineral oil; 1 part beeswax. Melt them slowly together in a crock pot.
Ok, so that makes a nice miter. 4 perfect miters don’t come together well if the lengths aren’t dead on. How do address that?
I address that more in the next video where I build a keepsake box using this jig, but basically you need to use a stop block when cutting your parts. Then at the shooting board you can count how many strokes you make so you take off the same amount from each board. Finally, you can check by holding the opposing sides back to back to check that they are the exact same length.
Great video thx - Question - why doesn't the plane eat into the shooting board?
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
Baltic birch? Why look for that when I can go down and pick up the very wet, knotty, sappy, and warped choice pine from Home Depot? You can really show off your talent with a plain trying to work with that wood. My generation calls that sweat equity and It makes you feel like you really accomplished something!
Only the best HD curly pine!
What is the screw countersink that you are using?
Thanks in advance!
Amana Countersink Tool: amzn.to/3AWcmVa
Wouldn't the tape wear through and have to be replaced frequently? How does that build deal with the plane iron shaving down the 3/4" BB plywood deck? It will quickly change the angle at the deck, it may be a moot point, it may not. My 90 degree shooting board has a deck that is just below the iron so the only contact point with the iron is on the material to be planed.
The tape should last a while since it's just being rubbed by the side of the plane. After you add some wax it shouldn't wear away that fast.
The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig. The platform and the fence have areas that won't be cut by the blade and keep the plane in position.
How does the part of the plane blade that rides below the level of the plywood not shave the edge of the plywood and throw off the 45 degree angle?
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
@@biscuittreewoodworks Makes perfect sense. Thank you. Now I need toi make one of these.
I subscribed based pn your lefthandedness alone, as i am too!
Thanks! Hope you enjoy the videos!
I guess I missed something, what prevents the plane from cutting into the plywood surface it is sliding on. Love the video. Nice lighting, good narration voice but the music could be somewhat lower.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
The plane blade doesn’t run all the way across the bottom of the plane from one edge to the other. The jig is built so the sides of the plane sole rides on the platform and fence of the jig and doesn’t cut into it. The portion of the jig platform and fence that are directly in line with the blade do get cut away but just a little until the sole comes into contact with the jig. Hope that makes sense!
Thy great addition mine need a replacement.
Always good to have one in the shop!
Can I ask does the blade not damage the shooting board as it runs along.
The blade doesn't go all the way across the sole of the plane. The blade does cut the parts of the jig directly under the blade, but the sides of the sole where the blade doesn't reach keeps the plane from cutting any further into the jig.
@biscuittreewoodworks could you give us a close up on the actual board. I'm new to this and don't quite get it. Video is cool btw. All the way from Scotland.
@@TheDocster5unfortunately not at this point. RUclips doesn’t allow me to add anything to the video or post pictures in the comments.
I do have some photos and the build plans on my website. biscuittreewoodworks.com
You can also use the contact form there to ask questions and I can respond to those messages with photos.
@@biscuittreewoodworks thanks mate 👍🏻
I'm a novice, but isn't the cut @3:49 a little risky? I might have started with wider stock, sneak up on the perfect 45, then the do the easy/safe 90 to width...
It's fine if you have enough stock to have a sturdy base and a good push stick. You could start with much wider stock to cut the 45, then trim off the extra width at 90.
He's having burn marks as well...
This looks fine and should work well. But why not just use your regular shooting board with a donkey's ear attachment? That's what I did a few years ago. Works well and fewer jigs to store.
Would work fine if I had a regular shooting board and donkey ear attachment. Plus, I think the donkey ear attachments are too big and cumbersome compared to this jig. But feel free to use whichever works best for you.
What if you don't have a table saw??
You could use a track saw or a circular saw with a good guide for straight cuts. Otherwise, you can build them the same way they have for the last few hundred years which is completely by by hand using hand saws and planes.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Thank you!
I have the same 25 pound clamp in my shop 😂
Always handy to have around!
How did you figure 93% did you do a survey?
Very extensive research which involved watching a handful of other RUclips videos and talking to several people. During this time I also learned that 97.6% of all statistics found online are made-up. Based on the comments I've gotten and the people I've talked to I'm at least 89.3% correct.
You calibrated the saw blade angle to gravity, not the saw tabletop. Two different things.
That is a good thing to keep in mind, but no I didn't calibrate to gravity. I always zero the digital gauge out on the table saw top before putting it on the blade.
The thing i dont understand is that youve cut all your 45's on the table saw so if they are accurate then your mitres would be accurate surely?????
The shooting board has several advantages over the table saw.
First, you don't have to recalibrate the shooting board. When you move the table saw blade, you may not come back to exactly 45 and be slightly off again.
Second, the shooting board won't leave burn marks, blade marks, or tearout.
Third, with the shooting board you can literally take off less than 1 thousandths of an inch at a time to get your parts the exact same size.
If none of those things are a concern to you, then you might not need a shooting board. I don't use it for 90% of the cuts I make. It's just for the really precise work like jewelry boxes or humidors where the tiny details matter.
The table saw generally leaves a good 45 but variances in the way you push, blade vibration, and difficult wood make minor misalignment that may not be noticeable on bigger projects but are noticeable on detailed projects. It really depends on whether or not the miter will be part of a focus point on a piece. I use the table saw for 95% of cuts but I have actually freehanding 45s with my handplane and a very good miter square.
your problem with the angle cube is probably due to you not referencing the blade angle to you table surface. If that is not done then the cube will reference the Earth's surface rather than the table surface. ALWAYS zero the cube on the table FIRST then it will always give the relative angle of the blade to the table. I have NEVER found the cube to give an incorrect angle when foll0wing this method.
Yes, I’m aware. I always zero the gauge on the table saw top before put it on the blade. It’s very minor, but the digital gauge does have a tolerance.
@@biscuittreewoodworks If the digital cube has a resolution of 0.1° then it has an uncertainty of 0.05° which is far better than your eye can detect with that metal protractor even if the pivot is placed EXACTLY at the center of the circle and there is no parallax error, the indicator arm is straight. I just think the thumbnail is wrong, a cynical person might even suggest it is clickbait.
I am not saying this applies to your channel BUT there seems to have been an explosion of 'misleading' channels posting 'dubious' content of late on YT and, while I keep adding them to the 'don't recommend' file, they seem to keep coming; I suppose that is the penalty you pay for a 'free' platform.
@@michaellinahan7740call it clickbait if you like, but before you do you should check out the specifications on the Wixey website.
The accuracy is +/- 0.2 degrees.
The repeatability is +/- 0.1 degrees.
This combined gives you a tolerance of +/- 0.3 degrees.
That’s 6X the inaccuracy you thought you were getting with this gauge.
That said, if the Wixey works great for you that’s fantastic! You don’t have to change anything just because some goof on RUclips has a different method.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your feedback!
Dang I thought it was 91.72% of woodworkers, I guess I was way off.
Sooo close!
Left handed! You can’t possibly be a wood worker, all of your profound come out backwards 😂
Projects, (I hate auto correct)
😂
Does every woodworking in america have a set of dumb bells in their workshols
Yes! We are also required to have a treadmill or stationary bike that is covered in clothes and/or boxes and hasn't been used in months!
Measuring the diagonals is a guarantee of square ONLY if opposite sides are exactly equal. e.g. a trapezoide has equal diagonals.
That's not to take away from the top quality of your video.
Fair point. Thanks for watching!
I wish woodworking video guys could think of something new to tell us, this method is as old as the hills and has been done to death on youtube for years. I was watching this technique 15 years ago. It's just a rehash of some other people's videos that's been on RUclips for all those years.
It's great that you already knew about this, but from the feedback I've received, many people are just seeing this for the first time. While I try to provide content that is relevant to woodworkers of all stages, a lot of what I share is directed at helping people just getting started and haven't been consuming woodworking content for the last 15+ years like you and I have. But thanks for watching and for providing the feedback. If you have any ideas on what you'd like to see, let me know and I'll try to make a video on a more interesting topic for you!
Trump needs to end the war in Ukraine. We need that Baltic birch.
Make Baltic Birch Affordable Again!
@@GB-mu9ue LOL. Meanwhile, Ukraine is not in the Baltics. It comes from Russia, Estonia, etc .
First, win the lottery, then buy an aircraft hanger. Fill it with the most expensive, state-of-the-art woodwork machines, including dust extraction, and then make this huge, heavy shooting board. Don't worry, you'll have plenty of space to store it because you've bought the aircraft hanger. Oh, I almost forgot, you might need some hand tools too.
It might look impressive on camera, but I'm just in a regular garage. My tools are pretty basic mid-entry level and definitely on the lower cost end, some of them I bought used. I've collected them slowly over many years saving up and buying them one at a time. If you're tool envious, I"m sorry. We all start somewhere. If this is something you want to do, you'll get there one day as well. Thanks for watching, and I hope you were able to learn something from the video.
The strange thing about this video that I saw was this, you would rely on two pieces of equipment that probably cost less than fourty dollars for both pieces, rather then rely on a table saw that was probably pretty close to maybe TWENTY FIVE, TWENTY SIX, TWENTY SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARDS, That makes absolutely no sense to me.
Power tools are for ripping through material very quickly, but they aren't exactly the most accurate. Hand tools can be extremely precise and are used a lot for fine tuning joinery. I can shave off 1/1000th of an inch with a plane, but not a table saw. A good woodworker should know their tools and their limitations.
Also, if you are lumping my Lie-Nielsen No 62 Low Angle Jack Plane into that $40 of equipment, then you are greatly underestimating the cost of quality hand tools! That's a $300 plane.
ps. you're also about $1000 too low for the cost of that saw!
@@bobhobbs9369 you’re obviously not doing any fine woodworking, because you’d already know what he showed in the video.
@@biscuittreewoodworks $300 is surprising low for a Lie-Nielsen *anything* :)
@@stainlesssteellemming3885exactly! I’d love to get a few more planes but they are so expensive! I’ll just stick with my reconditioned planes for a little while longer.
@@biscuittreewoodworks Yep, got a working set (#3-#7) of vintage Stanleys. though vintage 5 1/2's are now expensive enough to justify going for a new one. Same for my Veritas router.
So, if the LN #62 has no lateral adjustment, how do you compensate for any slight skew in the blade after multiple sharpenings?
mandated RUclips woodworking shitty blues/rock
Oh yes, only the best!