So, what they don't warn you about is the need to have several accessories that go along with a mid rise. Like the self-calibrating wheel balancer that you'll maybe use once a year. Or, perhaps, the hydraulic bead breaker that you haven't yet used. The worst part is you'll have to wake up early in the morning to brush the snow from your wife's car cause her car no longer fits in the garage.
Well, if you really needed those accessories then you would be a professional mechanic. A hobbyist like me doesn't, so no issue. The lift fully collapsed is only about 4" high, so unless you are driving a Corvette, Porsche, or a car that is bagged and slammed a normal car will not have an issue with it. I know as my Impala, 20 year old Lexus and my Mustangs fit over it.
Hi Richard, when a human is on hand it is easier, but I also have another way to make sure I don't go too far. The concrete in the garage has concrete stress relief cuts, and when I park the car I took a piece of blue painters tape and put it on the door sill. When the blue tape and the stress relief cut lines up I know to stop. Of course I have the door open a bit so I can see when everything lines up.
Great video Thanks for explaining everything.Couple of questions do you need an air supply to shut off the safty catch and if so will a smaller compressor work.Also if your garage floor cement is old will any uneven spots cause you any problems ,if so what could I do to remedy that problem. Could you oil coat the underbody of your car with this hoist or is there to many tings in the way. Any feedback you could give me would be greatly appreciated Thanks Dale
Hi Dale, The safety catch is mechanical so no air compressor is necessary. Yes, uneven spots on the garage floor could cause stability issues. I've seen others put down 1/8" to 1/4" thick steel plate to make everything level. Since this is not an open center lift it will get in the way, but there is a possible solution. One way you could to do this is to create wood tire cribs to fit under the tires once the vehicle is up in the air. I would say use jack stands but the lift is now taking the same space as where the jackstands would normally go. If you have built ramps like I did you'll need to remove the ramps and make sure the tire cribs are placed on the concrete only. Google "Wood Tire Cribs" or just watch this video on how to build them that I just found. ruclips.net/video/aCqfHligDSQ/видео.html The ones in the video are 15" tall, and others that I've seen at Good Guys shows were the same height, so don't exceed that height. The tires cribs will fit under each tire, lower the lift down so that each tires is fitted onto the tire crib. Ensure safety is taken to make sure everything is stable. Once the lift is fully down take off the lift blocks from the yellow arms, and I would put a 1" piece of plywood down on top of the Yellow lift arms, putting 2x4's under any section that might flex . This will allow you to crawl under the car and do any undercoating. If you have a heavy vehicle I would not use the wood tire cribs. Of course if you do not feel comfortable or safe doing it this way, don't as it is all about safety. Good luck. Peter
@@gearheadpeter Thanks again Peter for all the information, the tire cribs are a terrific idea Thanks for the link I purchased a lift on the weekend and can't wait to use it. Thanks again Dale
@@daleramage7389 You are very welcome Dale. Enjoy the lift as it makes wrenching so much easier. One thing to consider is how high the lift goes with you vehicle on it and your ceiling height. I have a 9' ceiling, but found that with the lift on the 3rd stop and given the height of my car the total lift would have caused my car roof to contact the ceiling, which is never a good idea. Also consider that to get the lift to come down you have to lift it up about 2" past the stop, which would put the car even higher. Measure the car height from the roof to the where the lift will contact to give you an idea of what you are working with to make sure you won't have any issues lifting the car and not hitting your garage ceiling.
Hello Peter. I'm looking at mid-rise lifts and discovered your video. Questions for you... When you have your Gen 1 Mustang lifted, could you remove the transmission, or would the lift structure be in the way? I have a Gen 1 Camaro and desire to upgrade to a 5-speed over the winter. Do you have any pictures you could share of the lift with a car on it?
Hi David, The only negative of the lift is that I can't do any transmission work as the center is blocked. What I came up with is putting tire cribs at all four corners and resting the car on them. This way the car is high enough to take out the tranny. I also built a box that goes over the lift when it is in full down mode. Yes, I do have an image of the car on the lift, but I can't upload it on RUclips.
Excellent review. I have a BendPak MD-6XP and this Dannmar appears to be identical except for paint color. I'm wondering what the corporate connection is.
Thanks. They are two different companies. The difference with the Dannmar is that it has 3 stops whereas the BendPak has 4 stops, and the other difference is the cost of the Dannmar which is about $400 less than the BendPak.
As long as it doesn't exceed the weight limit of 6000 lbs. it should. The lift arms articulate so it should be able to hit the lift points of your truck, but to be certain measure where the lifts points are, and look at the specs for the lift. You can also call Dannmar at 1-877-432-6627 and they will be able to help.
GVWR is how much weight your truck can hold safely. I'm guessing your truck weighs around 5 to 5.5k lbs. You need to verify this yourself, but you need to look for "curb weight" not vehicle capacity.
Sorry, I should have done this before. The system I got is 110 volts AC. I also figured anyone interested would go to the Dannmar website and look at the specs. Here is the link to that model www.dannmar.com/car-lifts/specialty-lifts/dmr-6/#specs
this lift is a piece of shit..... have to have boards on the floor that you trip over....in order to get a honda on the lift.... dont waste your money.... I have a mid rise that is 3 inches lowered and requires no stupid planks
I’d put a much larger thicker washer on those arms. Spread the strain out.
So, what they don't warn you about is the need to have several accessories that go along with a mid rise. Like the self-calibrating wheel balancer that you'll maybe use once a year. Or, perhaps, the hydraulic bead breaker that you haven't yet used. The worst part is you'll have to wake up early in the morning to brush the snow from your wife's car cause her car no longer fits in the garage.
Well, if you really needed those accessories then you would be a professional mechanic. A hobbyist like me doesn't, so no issue.
The lift fully collapsed is only about 4" high, so unless you are driving a Corvette, Porsche, or a car that is bagged and slammed a normal car will not have an issue with it. I know as my Impala, 20 year old Lexus and my Mustangs fit over it.
Get video Nice job going over and explaining everything
Love those substantial end blocks Peter. Better have a human guide on hand!
Hi Richard, when a human is on hand it is easier, but I also have another way to make sure I don't go too far. The concrete in the garage has concrete stress relief cuts, and when I park the car I took a piece of blue painters tape and put it on the door sill. When the blue tape and the stress relief cut lines up I know to stop. Of course I have the door open a bit so I can see when everything lines up.
Great video Thanks for explaining everything.Couple of questions do you need an air supply to shut off the safty catch and if so will a smaller compressor work.Also if your garage floor cement is old will any uneven spots cause you any problems ,if so what could I do to remedy that problem. Could you oil coat the underbody of your car with this hoist or is there to many tings in the way. Any feedback you could give me would be greatly appreciated Thanks Dale
Hi Dale, The safety catch is mechanical so no air compressor is necessary. Yes, uneven spots on the garage floor could cause stability issues. I've seen others put down 1/8" to 1/4" thick steel plate to make everything level. Since this is not an open center lift it will get in the way, but there is a possible solution. One way you could to do this is to create wood tire cribs to fit under the tires once the vehicle is up in the air. I would say use jack stands but the lift is now taking the same space as where the jackstands would normally go. If you have built ramps like I did you'll need to remove the ramps and make sure the tire cribs are placed on the concrete only.
Google "Wood Tire Cribs" or just watch this video on how to build them that I just found. ruclips.net/video/aCqfHligDSQ/видео.html The ones in the video are 15" tall, and others that I've seen at Good Guys shows were the same height, so don't exceed that height.
The tires cribs will fit under each tire, lower the lift down so that each tires is fitted onto the tire crib. Ensure safety is taken to make sure everything is stable. Once the lift is fully down take off the lift blocks from the yellow arms, and I would put a 1" piece of plywood down on top of the Yellow lift arms, putting 2x4's under any section that might flex . This will allow you to crawl under the car and do any undercoating. If you have a heavy vehicle I would not use the wood tire cribs.
Of course if you do not feel comfortable or safe doing it this way, don't as it is all about safety. Good luck. Peter
@@gearheadpeter Thanks again Peter for all the information, the tire cribs are a terrific idea Thanks for the link I purchased a lift on the weekend and can't wait to use it. Thanks again Dale
@@daleramage7389 You are very welcome Dale. Enjoy the lift as it makes wrenching so much easier. One thing to consider is how high the lift goes with you vehicle on it and your ceiling height. I have a 9' ceiling, but found that with the lift on the 3rd stop and given the height of my car the total lift would have caused my car roof to contact the ceiling, which is never a good idea. Also consider that to get the lift to come down you have to lift it up about 2" past the stop, which would put the car even higher. Measure the car height from the roof to the where the lift will contact to give you an idea of what you are working with to make sure you won't have any issues lifting the car and not hitting your garage ceiling.
Hello Peter. I'm looking at mid-rise lifts and discovered your video. Questions for you... When you have your Gen 1 Mustang lifted, could you remove the transmission, or would the lift structure be in the way? I have a Gen 1 Camaro and desire to upgrade to a 5-speed over the winter. Do you have any pictures you could share of the lift with a car on it?
Hi David,
The only negative of the lift is that I can't do any transmission work as the center is blocked. What I came up with is putting tire cribs at all four corners and resting the car on them. This way the car is high enough to take out the tranny. I also built a box that goes over the lift when it is in full down mode. Yes, I do have an image of the car on the lift, but I can't upload it on RUclips.
Great review Peter. Looks like you're going to be doing some more serious car work. Another muscle car?
No, same 65 Mustang Fastback, but with this I won't have to crawl around under the car, and it will make doing maintenance much easier on all my cars.
Excellent review. I have a BendPak MD-6XP and this Dannmar appears to be identical except for paint color. I'm wondering what the corporate connection is.
Thanks. They are two different companies. The difference with the Dannmar is that it has 3 stops whereas the BendPak has 4 stops, and the other difference is the cost of the Dannmar which is about $400 less than the BendPak.
Both made in China
Having mine delivered on Saturday. How are you liking it now that you've had it for awhile?
Hi Bruce. I still love mine and it makes maintenance on my 65 Mustang Fastback and other cars so much easier. You'll love it also.
@@gearheadpeter Thanks!
Why not just use the hydraulic pump with the hitch to move it an inch or 2 why use a crowbar to wreck your concrete?
I love it but you obviously cant remove a transmission ,but still a cool product.
Will a Chevy Silverado 1500 fit on it ??
As long as it doesn't exceed the weight limit of 6000 lbs. it should. The lift arms articulate so it should be able to hit the lift points of your truck, but to be certain measure where the lifts points are, and look at the specs for the lift. You can also call Dannmar at 1-877-432-6627 and they will be able to help.
Would it lift my half ton? GVWR 6400lbs.
Hi Marcus, the lift is rated at 6000 lbs so I would think not. I would buy one rated at 7000 lbs or larger to make sure it can safely lift your truck.
GVWR is how much weight your truck can hold safely. I'm guessing your truck weighs around 5 to 5.5k lbs. You need to verify this yourself, but you need to look for "curb weight" not vehicle capacity.
How come you never tell us if this is 110v or 220v ?? don't you think it's kind of important?
Sorry, I should have done this before. The system I got is 110 volts AC. I also figured anyone interested would go to the Dannmar website and look at the specs. Here is the link to that model www.dannmar.com/car-lifts/specialty-lifts/dmr-6/#specs
looks fuckin dangerous
this lift is a piece of shit..... have to have boards on the floor that you trip over....in order to get a honda on the lift.... dont waste your money.... I have a mid rise that is 3 inches lowered and requires no stupid planks