Famous molecules in perfumery - Coumarin
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
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IFRA Standards library: ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/li...
Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
00:30 - History of coumarin
01:30 - Coumarin in Fougères
02:35 - Usage in perfumery
04:05 - Safety & how to find the IFRA limit
07:16 - Bicyclononalactone / Octahydrocoumarin alternative
08:33 - Evaluations
12:09 - Outro
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I love the in depth way you explain things. Huge perfumery career ahead of you.
Thank you!
Sam, you are my fav youtuber.
Great video Sam. You made me reexamine bicyclononalactone as I thought I hated it. To me it was like C18 without the coconut - the waxy dry part. I've just compared the two and I think you are right about it being between coumarin and C18. I now see the dry herbaceous woody aspect. I think originally I was unhappy with it as I had been aiming for coconut.
Look forward to seeing your coumarin formulas. I recently used it to produce a powdery woody male talc-like accord with ethyl vanillin, sandalore, timbersilk, lyral and ethylene brassylate.
Glad that this prompted you to revisit it! Nothing better than finding a new aspect to a raw material you previously decided you didn't like.
Greetings Sam, I absolutely love your videos and your passion to share your knowledge. You make the world a better place! Watching the video I got inspired to investigate the chemical compound of different citruses by first downloading chemical analysis of different citrus EO's and then buying those AC's available. Start blending, building, and by that learning more about citrusses. Taking into account that the ratio of AC in EO's vary from different region in addition from year to year I think this might be an interesting project to pursue.
Thank you! That sounds like a nice project. You should check out my video on making a bergamot accord if you didn't already as I looked at that to some degree. Let me know how it goes!
Desde Argentina te leo(con el traductor 😂😂) Fabulodas tus explicaciones
Am learning a lot from your videos. thanks for this information.
The scent of coumarin is awesome. I love it and with labdanum they are my favourite notes. The IFRA is a bummer. The sweetness nowadays is done by exchanging coumarin with ethyl maltol in a lot of cases. Sweet as well, however not even close. Ps. the proposed bicyclononalactone + benzaldehyde smells great too.
I’ll have to try that combo, thanks! I can see it working
Great video man, love the history!
Cheers
Good information. Thank you.
No problem
Comprehensive video, loved the structure and topics covered, thanks for sharing! Coumarin usually comes in powder form, do you know why this is and how long can it be 'kept' once diluted with perfumers alcohol?
Thank you! Yes, just some raw materials are naturally solids; think of it more as there is no reason they must be a liquid. There’s no way to know how long something will keep in alcohol without testing it but many things will keep for well over a year.
Hello Sam, thank you for all your videos always touch on interesting and useful topics.
most formulas have many components and it is not possible to have them all at hand, I wonder if you will have some list of substitutes because I have not been able to get information about it.
thank you in advance for your help.
Thanks Javier. Unfortunately I don't have such a list. I don't think there's ever an ideal substitute but sometimes there can be fairly good ones. I don't use formulas I find online myself very often at all and this is one of the reasons. The only advice I can give is to focus on your own creations with what you have instead of making formulas you find.
@@sammacer thanks 👍
Thank you
Gracias !
I am big fan of perfume and big fan of you 😊💫
Thank you!!
Funnily enough the specific fern you showed actually does have a scent! It's a hay fern and smells kind of like hay if you crush it up in your hand.
Oh cool - obviously I just got an image from the internet. When I smell crushed ferns I find them to be very green.
Dzięki:)
Thank you so much for pointing out which of the IFRA categories to go by. I like to use coumarin in my blends but I never understood which of the IFRA categories to go by so I would always go with the most stringent just to be safe. It seems that I could've used a lot more.
Yep - it says deep in the guide somewhere 😅
To avoid problems and work more easily I always use coumarin diluted to 1%.
Yeah me too, I completely agree
I'm a Coumarin junkie! I love Alexandria II, which is full of it. Bycyclo is not my cup of tea, still looking for a good way to use it.
Yeah I knows what you mean - it is pretty different, probably the closest we have though unfortunately
I think I’m in love . Do you sell courses ?
Not at the moment - but maybe in the future!
Hello I was wondering if you know of any website that has perfumery ingredients and can tell you all known binary relationships between other ingredients (if it goes well with them or not) Something like a network of ingredients, maybe there could be voting on the relationships from other users. That would be really cool.
Just imagine you could put the ingredients you have into the website, and it would tell you which things go well with each other. Thanks for letting me know if there's something like this available publicly.
I don't know of anything like this that exists already. It's a great idea though. I think something like this would be cool to add in a website version of Formulair in the future if the current app gains enough traction
Hi Sam? Could you give me formula for reed diffuser?
I've never made one but you should be able to find something on google
🔥🔥
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good man make good video 👌
Thanks
Hello sir
I am a Ganpat University student. I study Msc organic chemistry.chemically made coumarin may or may not be used in cosmetic products.
What?
Not sure how the IFRA site is supposed to work but on my mobile it doesn't seem to. If you do get any hits on a search term the site will say so but doesn't display them. What am I doing wrong?
Strange, have you tried the desktop version?
@@sammacer Yep. ya did. Missed that one! :P
Hey may i know is that tonka bean makes allergic to several people?
Yes, it contains coumarin, a potential allergen
@@sammacer thank youu
Should I worry about toxicity at all while using coumarin??
Yes, check the IFRA guidelines for it
Where should I buy Coumarin from?
Mine if from Pell Wall but lots of suppliers sell it
Have you tried 6-methylcoumarin?
No I have not!
Sam ,deberías subtitular español para América Latina .
I tried in the past but it is just too time consuming
@@sammacer si es un trabajo que lleva tiempo , creo que tú labor es genial es un curso de perfumería espectacular de lo mejor que he visto .
You don't have any obligation to follow IFRAs ridiculous limits. I refuse to let IFRA destroy classical perfumery and I'd have hoped you did too.
You’re right that there’s no legal obligation, however I prefer to stick to them and recommend them out of care for my viewers safety