That remote starter thing should be connected between battery positive and the solenoid trigger connection (one of the small ones) if you connect it across the solenoid's large terminals it will burn out very quickly.
Well done getting it driving . If it's working leave the points in. Great believer in "if it ain't broke........ " Can't wait to see what you turn up in on wed. Cheers Mitch
Cheers Mitch! Yeah think I will just leave the points in for now anyway. Don't get too excited about the new project but hopefully might make for a few entertaining vids 😀👍
Sound of that is ohv engine and trans takes me way back to when I started driving, when had my first ever Vauxhall, I remember the points on it in distributor , the play on that rotor spindle was normal on mine at the time, not sure if it was meant to be like that, also a pain I ass in heavy rain make sure you have either a cover or ignition sealer on it.
Good job getting the viva running. Like to see them like that good honest condition. Good sense of humour you have makes it more enjoyable thanks ruth😂
Stick with the points for now, good to see it start up, usually timing chain making the timing marks jump around, looking forward to Wednesday mate, great vid.
As I said earlier the first viva I had was from 1970,I got it seven years later and the wings were rotten through but I got it cheap worth it though just to get them cattied up was peanuts back then.
Good to see the Viva working again. I would say up and down movement of the cam in distributor is fine, if it was me I would leave the points in. Lovin the channel.
The timing mark bouncing around like that is normally the timing chain whipping around like mad - best to replace when you get a chance it’s amazing how much it quiets and smooths out the engine. But also check the rocker shaft for heavy wear on the underside they can allow the valves to bonce around as well.
For the remote starter switch, they can't pass any significant current- it's just meant to be used activate the relay or solenoid, not to power the starter itself.
Yes, the remote switch should be connected power (battery + or permanent "live" brown or purple wire) to solenoid "trigger" wire terminal (thin usually white with red tracer) not battery feed terminal to starter feed terminal (thick wires).
On the Vivas i've worked on there was a button the the solenoid, it's underneath and has a rubber cap over it this allowed remote starting you might want to check if your has it.
I think when you were adjusting the timing with the timing light, it sounded to me like the idle was pretty high.. you want to make sure the RPMs are down where they should be at idle in order to set the initial timing. Otherwise it might be a little off due to the mechanical advance in the distributor, which kicks in as the engine speed goes up.
You could add also a high idle (caused by the air from the vacuum line not being plugged) with the inevitable wear in the centrifugal advance mechanism (springs, weights and pivots) will change the firing point, also contributes to the timing "dancing about" when using the strobe lamp.
Hello Steve, when starter clicks, its stuck, rock car forward and back in 2nd gear, handbrake and ignition off, if starter spins usually bendix needs cleaning, sorry if previous message caused confusion. Personally i would check dwell angle on points, using that tester you have. you may have to bring points gap in to account for wear, then once dwell angle is set, you must check and readjust timing.(points cap should be 22 i think, mine is set to 17) Doing this makes a huge difference, plug gap is done isn't it. Ps I bought same remote starter and it melted like yours. I made one out of a door bell button, thicker wire and 2 insulated crocodile clips.
Up and down play is normal in that distributor, good that you have no side to side play. It still sounded like the idle speed was very high for setting dynamic timing.
It's another great video and to hear it run again, if the light does not go out it could be it is too close, as the light only comes on when it is near a magnet or metal object. it is called a proximity switch.
Glad you got it running,when it's running check your feed voltage to the coil see if your ballast wire is still working at 6v ish. Ballast coil is correct for the standard set up. If it's 12v it will burn the points and kill a ballast coil. You can fit a new power feed from the ignition switch with a ballast resistor box in place of the resistance wire if it has failed. Up and down movement of the shaft is a little worn but as long as the weights work OK should run good enough.been chasing the failed resistor wire on my mk1 cavalier for a while and resorted to fitting an electronic dizzy from a manta gte along with a 12v non ballast coil. Intrigued to see what the new car is now!
Sounds grand to me on the points, seemed to drive well too. I'd forgotten how light the steering was on Vivas, you really drove it well. Get your money back on that useless starter thing, you have it on vid how bad it was. So glad you got her running again, thanks for sharing.
Thanks mate, steering isn't too bad compared to other classics I have driven. I am going to try again with the remote starter, though I'm sure I tried every combo 👍
You made a statement.....you buy cheap you buy twice........you wee electronic ignition module. That's probably why Luminition Electronic ignition systems are expensive. But at least you've had the time, patience and perseverance to stick with it. As for the play, it's a bit much in my experience as the shaft on the distributer on my VX490 turns the oil pump. Glad she's going again bud....your a star.
@Retro Rebuild there was another on the market years ago, I might be wrong but I think they were called sparkrite or something along those lines. But luminition are top class bud.....tried and tested. Keep up the great work mate.....Best channel on youtube 👏 👍 👌
I remember that the older HB vivas had an adjustable timing chain , you had to start the engine , and slowly turn the adjuster screw ( on the side of the timing chain cover) until the timing " scatter " stopped and the engine became less rattly . You could only do this up to a certain point of course ! The latter HC and Chevette engines had automatic adjusters, and this might be the case with yours , I which case you cant really do much about it . As regards your remote starter button , I think you had it wrongly connected ? It should go from the battery pos to the small tag on the solenoid , I think you had yours clipped to the big connection on the starter motor itself, this would mean the full starter current ( 100s of amps! ) would be going through it .
Thanks mate I'll check it out but I think mine gas an auto adjuster aswell. I think I tried every combo with the starter button but going to try it again 👍
Hello Steve,one thing it starts and drives,I might know what the other car is and passed my test in one.i thought it might have been the old coil.great video.
Regarding the distributor shaft: there’s a certain amount of play that allowable. In many engines the up & down movement of the dizzy shaft could through the timing off becomes as the cam turns it forces the distributor drive gear up which force the distributor drive shaft up. As the dizzy shaft moves up, the two gears don’t mesh properly (backlash) making the timing erratic. I don’t know about your engine & I don’t know what amount of play is acceptable.
The distributor post is good its supposed to move like that. The timing mark bouncing around like that is most likely the timing chain thrashing about, are the valves set correctly? Also check the wear on the underside of the rocker shaft if it has a wear step on it it needs replacement, you can bodge them by rotating it 180 degrees - not sure if the GM engines allow this its been many years but I am sure there is a way!
The distributor post looks good, the timing mark scatter looks like the chain has worn out I am afraid. Are the valves set correctly is the rocker shaft OK check for a bis wear step on the underside - replace that if it has. You can bodge them by rotating them half a turn to see if tat helps, not sure if you can on a GM engine its been to long!
@@RetroRebuild so much to do so little time! I understand butty! You will be amazed how smooth and quiet an engine with good timing gear runs - and much more economical as well as you can run more advance and lean it off a little then. Also if you get the rockers off have a look at the tips (that bear on the valves) and see if they are grooved - I’ve often reground these on a wet stone and despite all the complaints you will get it’s never given me any problems apart from smooth running!
When you have it started on points and timed summat like get a dwell meter on it, those delco dizzys wear bad and its best to set the points gap using a a dwell meter, you will probably find the points gap is different to the manual, when youve got it set with the dwell then time it up with the timing light 👍
Always good to see what’s going on with the Viva! Bth don’t know much about switching the bits out on the distributor but I can say I’d be doing exactly what you are doing 😂 that’s what makes it fun and memorable 🎉 Sexy Viva 😂😂😂
One step forward, two back mate! Strange how it was still sounding advanced when the cap was off 🤔 Check the voltage to the coil, if its 12v it has no resistor, with a resistor its around 8v or 9v if I remember right! Electronic ignition may need to be 12v but check the destructions 🤣 obviously a lone wolf 100 that one 🤣 but it should connected from the live on the battery to the switched terminal on the solenoid, not sure which way you had it wired 🤔 you'll get there mate, looking forward to seeing the new project 👍
Well you got it running and took it for a short spin around the block 👍🏻 that’s a huge milestone, hmmm 🤔 you got me all aroused thinking about the new project 😂, maybe I’m STRANGE too 😂👌🏻.
Yeah mate it was nice taking her for a quick spin! Don't get too aroused about the new project but hopefully there will be a few entertaining vids from it if nothing else 🤣
Steve, on Facebook, there is a nikki carb and inlet for viva 1.3 I think, they are better than the strongburg, better running, economy and increased power. Unless you want to keep the car stock.
Morning Steve , a little progress from last week mate , at least she started and drove ..! And any hints for us on the next car you are getting ..? Very intrigued 🤔 Looking forward to the next one as always ❤👍🏻
The engine likes that, take the disi cap off when static timing, its just seeing when the points open with the aid of a light bulb, the accuspark if I remember right should be timed with a timing light and not left on with just the ignition on, up and down with the disi not to bad sideplay is of course . Still the vivas a runner, timing chains, camshafts all the rest an be checked later, its not misfiring or making loose chain noises I think. Lots of smoke on starting, maybe oil seals.
Take the distributor off check the drive side if its a dog leg version not a cog version check how loose the fit is as wear on this part makes the timing alter as the car warms up and runs... I had the same problem with mine... I managed to buy a new one 20 years ago lol good luck lad
IIRC Viva doesn't have a ballast resister, but if it does you'll be trying to run the electronic ignition off 6 volts (which I don't think it will like) once you release the key from the cranking position. 😕
@@RetroRebuild Food for thought. Fit a known good 12v coil, hot wire from fuse box (to bypass resistive wire). Run with points. If all OK fit electronic ignition as it will now be getting 12v all the time. If it runs OK it's the ballast causing the problem. If not OK, you still have the ballast coil and points to run it on. Don't leave the hot wire in (like when having a brew and chocky bar :-) as it can burn out the coil if the engine isn't running. Likewise if you hot wire the ballast coil you could damage it. Good luck..
i think you had the remote starting switch connected up wrong it should be from large terminal on solenoid (live side) to small terminal on solenoid, your distributor shaft bushes are very worn that's why you are seeing the timing light move about erratically, from what i can hear of your engine the timing chain doesn't sound bad normally you can hear them rattling away on tick over when the engine is hot .
Hi will you offer this for sale. I am a, fan of these as owned a 1972 K HC 4 dr (orange colour). Then a 1976 P 4 dr in silver. Then a, 2 dr Coupe white with vinyl roof on R plate 77.
Just keep her on points for now, nothing wrong with them on a standard engine. You need to sort that exhaust blow out though lol. Got absolute delight in my head now. Thanks for that 🙄
Seems to run nice other than the tickover is a bit high, do you have the instructions for the electronic ignition? I guess whoever made it is long gone, how long before a real shake down run??
Two things come to mind.. The blip in the light when static timing could be a earthing problem with the advanced retard. The paper gasket under the plate might have burned or wore a hole with a piece of dirt sliding back and fore. The video where you had the strobe going was intermittent flashing... This could be the camera missing the flash. I had that problem on a Lucas 24D distributor and it took weeks to find the fault as it was only at a tiny point of contact. It was easier for me to replace the distributor as I had a spare engine.
There is clearly something wrong with your dizzy cap. In one shot engine had spark to a cylinder where you did not have the cap on at all. And it seems to that the electric spark module gives double amount of sparks. That dizzy will always have vertical play but that amount is close to exessive. No horisontal play is great news. Repair manual gives you correct amount of vertical play to the distributor shaft. There is always some jitter with the spark advance angle. That is because there is nominal play in the timing chain and drive gear between distributor and camshaft gear. There is something wrong with the carb too. That is one reason why manufacturers switched to spark timing straight from the crankshaft. And remote starter switch is wired paraller to a ignition switch. Not to the high current side of the starter. It is not uncommon to have worn down camshaft in the ohv engine. That will cause what ever symptoms too.
Can't static time 'lectronic ignition like ya can points. Magnet has to be rotating at some speed so's to trigger the Hall effect sensor. (Same as turning a dynamo very slowly) With ya ballast resistor coil, ensure points are closed & ignition on. 9 Volts across the coil means there's a ballast resistor, 12-ish volts, there ain't. If ya don't got a multimeter, use something like a tail lamp bulb to visually assess the voltage by glow intensity. If ya got the combo wrong, coil will run excessively hot, but will have no effect on performance in the short term. Science, ain't it?
@K I've had a few people tell me they were realy whiny and you could hear them coming back in the day😄 I haven't changed the oil in it yet so that may improve it but I also have a replacement box if need be 👍
Hay I really love your content mate crack on with more like this and rhe rescues
Thank you mate appreciate it, will do👍
That remote starter thing should be connected between battery positive and the solenoid trigger connection (one of the small ones) if you connect it across the solenoid's large terminals it will burn out very quickly.
I'll check it out but I'm sure I tried every combo 👍
Great vid as always.
Thank you mate 👍
I know you've got a ton of stuff to do on the Viva but I'd love to see a really good wash and brush up to make it look good.
I'll see what I can do! 😀
Well done getting it driving . If it's working leave the points in.
Great believer in "if it ain't broke........ "
Can't wait to see what you turn up in on wed.
Cheers Mitch
Cheers Mitch! Yeah think I will just leave the points in for now anyway. Don't get too excited about the new project but hopefully might make for a few entertaining vids 😀👍
Sound of that is ohv engine and trans takes me way back to when I started driving, when had my first ever Vauxhall, I remember the points on it in distributor , the play on that rotor spindle was normal on mine at the time, not sure if it was meant to be like that, also a pain I ass in heavy rain make sure you have either a cover or ignition sealer on it.
Think I'll get myself a cover,you've just reminded me I have coil cover to borrow off my other viva too 👍
Good job getting the viva running. Like to see them like that good honest condition. Good sense of humour you have makes it more enjoyable thanks ruth😂
Thank you! 👍
Stick with the points for now, good to see it start up, usually timing chain making the timing marks jump around, looking forward to Wednesday mate, great vid.
Thank you! I am sticking with the points for now mate, and I think a new timing chain is on the cards too, 👍
As I said earlier the first viva I had was from 1970,I got it seven years later and the wings were rotten through but I got it cheap worth it though just to get them cattied up was peanuts back then.
Great channel! Some great content fella!
Thank you mate, back at ya! Keep up the good work 👍
Good to see the Viva working again. I would say up and down movement of the cam in distributor is fine, if it was me I would leave the points in. Lovin the channel.
Thank you mate! 👍
I feel your pain brother. Sometimes what should be so simple turns up in to a real battle. We all appreciate you showing the highs and lows.
Thank you mate, nothing is ever straightforward 👍
Great to see the Viva running again,looking forward to seeing your latest purchase.
Thank you mate, don't get too excited about the new project 🤣👍
The timing mark bouncing around like that is normally the timing chain whipping around like mad - best to replace when you get a chance it’s amazing how much it quiets and smooths out the engine. But also check the rocker shaft for heavy wear on the underside they can allow the valves to bonce around as well.
Thanks mate, yes I think a new timing chain is on the cards 👍
wow, afternoon delight, the starlight vocal band ... one of my fave songs as a kid back in the early 70's.......
For the remote starter switch, they can't pass any significant current- it's just meant to be used activate the relay or solenoid, not to power the starter itself.
Yes, the remote switch should be connected power (battery + or permanent "live" brown or purple wire) to solenoid "trigger" wire terminal (thin usually white with red tracer) not battery feed terminal to starter feed terminal (thick wires).
On the Vivas i've worked on there was a button the the solenoid, it's underneath and has a rubber cap over it this allowed remote starting you might want to check if your has it.
I'll check that out mate, thank you! 👍
Ah, we knew you'd get her going. What's wrong with a good points set-up anyway. Great to see you driving the ol' Viva again.
Thank you mate! Good to have her back on the road! Theres a lot of fans of the original points so might just stick with that for now 👍
Years since I have driven a car w/o power steering, you handle it well, strange because I had three and it never felt like that.👨👩👧👦💚
I think when you were adjusting the timing with the timing light, it sounded to me like the idle was pretty high.. you want to make sure the RPMs are down where they should be at idle in order to set the initial timing. Otherwise it might be a little off due to the mechanical advance in the distributor, which kicks in as the engine speed goes up.
You could add also a high idle (caused by the air from the vacuum line not being plugged) with the inevitable wear in the centrifugal advance mechanism (springs, weights and pivots) will change the firing point, also contributes to the timing "dancing about" when using the strobe lamp.
I'll check that out mate, thanks very much 👍
Hello Steve, when starter clicks, its stuck, rock car forward and back in 2nd gear, handbrake and ignition off, if starter spins usually bendix needs cleaning, sorry if previous message caused confusion. Personally i would check dwell angle on points, using that tester you have. you may have to bring points gap in to account for wear, then once dwell angle is set, you must check and readjust timing.(points cap should be 22 i think, mine is set to 17) Doing this makes a huge difference, plug gap is done isn't it. Ps I bought same remote starter and it melted like yours. I made one out of a door bell button, thicker wire and 2 insulated crocodile clips.
Be nice if you made him one 🤗
Thanks for the info mate, I'll check it out! I like the sound the sound of your door bell button starter, very creative! 😀👍
Entertaining video again mate! Keep them coming can’t wait to see the next project
Thank you mate, don't get too excited about the next project 😆 👍
Up and down play is normal in that distributor, good that you have no side to side play. It still sounded like the idle speed was very high for setting dynamic timing.
Cheers mate, I'll check it out 👍
Great to hear it running. Sounds good 👍
Thank you mate! Just glad I got her running 😀👍
Still looking for the earth lead for the engine block to chassis Steve, must rewind your video.👍👌💚
I'll show you on the next vid 👍
@@RetroRebuild Thanks Steve, looking forward to it already 😀
It's another great video and to hear it run again, if the light does not go out it could be it is too close, as the light only comes on when it is near a magnet or metal object. it is called a proximity switch.
Thank you mate. I'm going to research it more before I attempt to put it back in, for now the points are doing their job 👍
@Retro Rebuild It is good to see that you got sorted the static timeing sorted.
steve, get that blowing exhaust sorted, might help with ur running bud.
😀 I've been meaning to, I'll get there eventually! 👍
Minted you got her moving again man 🥳 must have been doing your box in 😁
Thank you mate, yep it was! 😀👍
Glad you got it running,when it's running check your feed voltage to the coil see if your ballast wire is still working at 6v ish. Ballast coil is correct for the standard set up. If it's 12v it will burn the points and kill a ballast coil. You can fit a new power feed from the ignition switch with a ballast resistor box in place of the resistance wire if it has failed. Up and down movement of the shaft is a little worn but as long as the weights work OK should run good enough.been chasing the failed resistor wire on my mk1 cavalier for a while and resorted to fitting an electronic dizzy from a manta gte along with a 12v non ballast coil. Intrigued to see what the new car is now!
Thank you mate, I will look into that! 👍
Sounds grand to me on the points, seemed to drive well too. I'd forgotten how light the steering was on Vivas, you really drove it well. Get your money back on that useless starter thing, you have it on vid how bad it was. So glad you got her running again, thanks for sharing.
Starter thing was wired incorrectly.
Thanks mate, steering isn't too bad compared to other classics I have driven. I am going to try again with the remote starter, though I'm sure I tried every combo 👍
I tried a few different combos
You made a statement.....you buy cheap you buy twice........you wee electronic ignition module.
That's probably why Luminition Electronic ignition systems are expensive.
But at least you've had the time, patience and perseverance to stick with it.
As for the play, it's a bit much in my experience as the shaft on the distributer on my VX490 turns the oil pump.
Glad she's going again bud....your a star.
Thank you mate! I've been checking out those Luminition ignitions, they look like some good kit! 👍
@Retro Rebuild there was another on the market years ago, I might be wrong but I think they were called sparkrite or something along those lines.
But luminition are top class bud.....tried and tested.
Keep up the great work mate.....Best channel on youtube 👏 👍 👌
I remember that the older HB vivas had an adjustable timing chain , you had to start the engine , and slowly turn the adjuster screw ( on the side of the timing chain cover) until the timing " scatter " stopped and the engine became less rattly . You could only do this up to a certain point of course !
The latter HC and Chevette engines had automatic adjusters, and this might be the case with yours , I which case you cant really do much about it .
As regards your remote starter button , I think you had it wrongly connected ? It should go from the battery pos to the small tag on the solenoid , I think you had yours clipped to the big connection on the starter motor itself, this would mean the full starter current ( 100s of amps! ) would be going through it .
Thanks mate I'll check it out but I think mine gas an auto adjuster aswell. I think I tried every combo with the starter button but going to try it again 👍
Hello Steve,one thing it starts and drives,I might know what the other car is and passed my test in one.i thought it might have been the old coil.great video.
Thank you mate! Yes at least she is running again! 👍
Regarding the distributor shaft: there’s a certain amount of play that allowable. In many engines the up & down movement of the dizzy shaft could through the timing off becomes as the cam turns it forces the distributor drive gear up which force the distributor drive shaft up. As the dizzy shaft moves up, the two gears don’t mesh properly (backlash) making the timing erratic. I don’t know about your engine & I don’t know what amount of play is acceptable.
Thanks for the info mate I'll check it out 👍
The distributor post is good its supposed to move like that. The timing mark bouncing around like that is most likely the timing chain thrashing about, are the valves set correctly? Also check the wear on the underside of the rocker shaft if it has a wear step on it it needs replacement, you can bodge them by rotating it 180 degrees - not sure if the GM engines allow this its been many years but I am sure there is a way!
Thanks mate, I'll check it out. I think a new timing chain will be on the cards though 👍
@colinwest5294 - the Viva engine doesn't have a rocker shaft = the rockers are on threaded studs instead.
@@BlueSteel331 well that saves you a job then! It’s been so long since I pulled a viva engine out I can hardly remember probably 40 years!
The distributor post looks good, the timing mark scatter looks like the chain has worn out I am afraid. Are the valves set correctly is the rocker shaft OK check for a bis wear step on the underside - replace that if it has. You can bodge them by rotating them half a turn to see if tat helps, not sure if you can on a GM engine its been to long!
Thanks for the info mate, I haven't set the valves yet 👍
@@RetroRebuild so much to do so little time! I understand butty! You will be amazed how smooth and quiet an engine with good timing gear runs - and much more economical as well as you can run more advance and lean it off a little then. Also if you get the rockers off have a look at the tips (that bear on the valves) and see if they are grooved - I’ve often reground these on a wet stone and despite all the complaints you will get it’s never given me any problems apart from smooth running!
When you have it started on points and timed summat like get a dwell meter on it, those delco dizzys wear bad and its best to set the points gap using a a dwell meter, you will probably find the points gap is different to the manual, when youve got it set with the dwell then time it up with the timing light 👍
Thanks mate, I've been meaning to check the dwell for while now, I'll get round to it eventually 👍
As ever, quality viewing cheers, keep it up Steve!
Cheers mate! 👍
I have no idea what you’re doing? But.. I love the content. Crack on mate.
Thats ok, neither do I mate! 🤣🤣 Thank you! 👍
I have experienced a few electronic ignition kits on classics that dont work,i work on classics,and i think some kits are rubbish.
I think you're right mate, unless it's just me doing it wrong 😆
Good work, keep the points in for now and get some miles under your wheels!
Thanks mate, that will possibly happen 👍
from what i remember remote starter switch one wire to battery feed on solenoid the other to small spade terminal on solenoid
I think I tried that mate, but I'll give it another go 👍
Check the slack in the timing chain first Steve.
Well done so far me man!
Will do, thank you mate 👍
Always good to see what’s going on with the Viva! Bth don’t know much about switching the bits out on the distributor but I can say I’d be doing exactly what you are doing 😂 that’s what makes it fun and memorable 🎉 Sexy Viva 😂😂😂
😆 thank you mate 👍
Temperature guage feed should be cable tied to fuel line to keep it away from viscous fan.🍺🍻🥃
One step forward, two back mate!
Strange how it was still sounding advanced when the cap was off 🤔
Check the voltage to the coil, if its 12v it has no resistor, with a resistor its around 8v or 9v if I remember right!
Electronic ignition may need to be 12v but check the destructions 🤣 obviously a lone wolf 100 that one 🤣 but it should connected from the live on the battery to the switched terminal on the solenoid, not sure which way you had it wired 🤔 you'll get there mate, looking forward to seeing the new project 👍
Thanks for the info mate, my electronic ignition didn't come with any instructions 😀 I tried every combo with the starter switch 👍
Well you got it running and took it for a short spin around the block 👍🏻 that’s a huge milestone, hmmm 🤔 you got me all aroused thinking about the new project 😂, maybe I’m STRANGE too 😂👌🏻.
Yeah mate it was nice taking her for a quick spin! Don't get too aroused about the new project but hopefully there will be a few entertaining vids from it if nothing else 🤣
Steve, on Facebook, there is a nikki carb and inlet for viva 1.3 I think, they are better than the strongburg, better running, economy and increased power. Unless you want to keep the car stock.
Thanks mate,I'll check it out
Morning Steve , a little progress from last week mate , at least she started and drove ..! And any hints for us on the next car you are getting ..? Very intrigued 🤔
Looking forward to the next one as always ❤👍🏻
Thank you mate! Don't get too excited about the next project but hopefully there will be a few entertaining vids from it! 😆👍
The engine likes that, take the disi cap off when static timing, its just seeing when the points open with the aid of a light bulb, the accuspark if I remember right should be timed with a timing light and not left on with just the ignition on, up and down with the disi not to bad sideplay is of course . Still the vivas a runner, timing chains, camshafts all the rest an be checked later, its not misfiring or making loose chain noises I think. Lots of smoke on starting, maybe oil seals.
Thanks for the info mate - the smoke clears well but I'll look into it more 👍
Take the distributor off check the drive side if its a dog leg version not a cog version check how loose the fit is as wear on this part makes the timing alter as the car warms up and runs... I had the same problem with mine... I managed to buy a new one 20 years ago lol good luck lad
Thank you mate, will do! 👍
IIRC Viva doesn't have a ballast resister, but if it does you'll be trying to run the electronic ignition off 6 volts (which I don't think it will like) once you release the key from the cranking position. 😕
The Viva has some sort of wire that burns out instead of a ballast, but I'll be looking into it more thanks mate! 👍
@@RetroRebuild Food for thought.
Fit a known good 12v coil, hot wire from fuse box (to bypass resistive wire). Run with points.
If all OK fit electronic ignition as it will now be getting 12v all the time. If it runs OK it's the ballast causing the problem.
If not OK, you still have the ballast coil and points to run it on.
Don't leave the hot wire in (like when having a brew and chocky bar :-) as it can burn out the coil if the engine isn't running.
Likewise if you hot wire the ballast coil you could damage it.
Good luck..
@@rolyb197 👍
i think you had the remote starting switch connected up wrong it should be from large terminal on solenoid (live side) to small terminal on solenoid, your distributor shaft bushes are very worn that's why you are seeing the timing light move about erratically, from what i can hear of your engine the timing chain doesn't sound bad normally you can hear them rattling away on tick over when the engine is hot .
I tried every combination with the starter switch mate, but I'll give it another go, I've got another distributor to try, so that might be better 👍
Hi will you offer this for sale. I am a, fan of these as owned a 1972 K HC 4 dr (orange colour). Then a 1976 P 4 dr in silver. Then a, 2 dr Coupe white with vinyl roof on R plate 77.
This ones not for sale, though sounds like a cool collection of Vivas you owned!👍
Keep the points
I am for now 👍
@@RetroRebuild alot less hassle and they are easy enough to adjust
Just keep her on points for now, nothing wrong with them on a standard engine. You need to sort that exhaust blow out though lol. Got absolute delight in my head now. Thanks for that 🙄
😆 Will do mate and yes been meaning to get round to that exhaust blow! 👍
Seems to run nice other than the tickover is a bit high, do you have the instructions for the electronic ignition? I guess whoever made it is long gone, how long before a real shake down run??
Thanks mate, no there were no instructions with the electronic ignition 😀 and shouldn't be too much longer for a real shake down run 👍
The remote starter switch is supposed to go on to the pull in terminal on the solenoid not srtraight on to the starter motor
I tried a few different combos mate 👍
You've only gone and done it 👍🏻
😀 Getting there mate! 👍
Lone wolf 6000
😆 thats the one!
I'm not an expert but I don't think the driver's side wiper is right!
😆
Here we go MUNCH !!!! We are your munch bunch ahahahha
That electronic ignition looks like its not switching the coil hence no spark
Thanks mate, I'll check it out 👍
Might need to add an extra windscreen wiper on your side 😂
Or I could just take the one from the other side 🤣
@@RetroRebuild : you could....!
Two things come to mind..
The blip in the light when static timing could be a earthing problem with the advanced retard. The paper gasket under the plate might have burned or wore a hole with a piece of dirt sliding back and fore. The video where you had the strobe going was intermittent flashing... This could be the camera missing the flash.
I had that problem on a Lucas 24D distributor and it took weeks to find the fault as it was only at a tiny point of contact. It was easier for me to replace the distributor as I had a spare engine.
Thanks for the info mate, I'm going to research it all more before putting the electronic ignition back in 👍
Oh goody, now I've got 'Starlight vocal band' as an earworm.....never mind. Keep cracking on buddy, enjoying the content.
😆 Thank you mate! 👍
Stick with the points, nothing wrong with old technology
There is clearly something wrong with your dizzy cap. In one shot engine had spark to a cylinder where you did not have the cap on at all. And it seems to that the electric spark module gives double amount of sparks. That dizzy will always have vertical play but that amount is close to exessive. No horisontal play is great news. Repair manual gives you correct amount of vertical play to the distributor shaft. There is always some jitter with the spark advance angle. That is because there is nominal play in the timing chain and drive gear between distributor and camshaft gear. There is something wrong with the carb too. That is one reason why manufacturers switched to spark timing straight from the crankshaft.
And remote starter switch is wired paraller to a ignition switch. Not to the high current side of the starter. It is not uncommon to have worn down camshaft in the ohv engine. That will cause what ever symptoms too.
Thanks for the info mate, I'll be looking into all of that 👍
Still as entertaining x
Thank you mate 👍
"Maybe there's something wrong with me..."
(Your words)
You think?? 🤪🤪🤣🤣
nah theres something wrong with everyone else🤣
@@RetroRebuild 🤣🤣
I would suspect the electronic igitnion is faulty
China?
could be! 👍
Its an accuspark one, not sure where its made (probably China 😆)
Can't static time 'lectronic ignition like ya can points. Magnet has to be rotating at some speed so's to trigger the Hall effect sensor. (Same as turning a dynamo very slowly) With ya ballast resistor coil, ensure points are closed & ignition on. 9 Volts across the coil means there's a ballast resistor, 12-ish volts, there ain't. If ya don't got a multimeter, use something like a tail lamp bulb to visually assess the voltage by glow intensity. If ya got the combo wrong, coil will run excessively hot, but will have no effect on performance in the short term. Science, ain't it?
Thanks for the info mate! Yep science 😀👍
Go back to point and condenser, a lot simpler 👍👍
I have for now mate 👍
I bet £10 its the timing chain.
You have something wrong with youre transmission it's very whiney
They were known for being very whiney 👍
@@RetroRebuild what that noisy I've never been in one I remember them well in the 80s as a kid these and the chevette.have you had the box looked at
@K I've had a few people tell me they were realy whiny and you could hear them coming back in the day😄 I haven't changed the oil in it yet so that may improve it but I also have a replacement box if need be 👍