The only video of these plastic units that even begins to explain how they work. This video gave me enough information to make a "guess" where to begin looking for my particular problem. Bullseye...Parts are on the way. Decided to remove it out of the machine to completely clean it and inspect everything. If you have more than a couple hundred hours on yours, it's worth it. Hubby acts like I'm an alien from another planet when I'm in the shop tinkering with my mower. Bought it 6 yrs ago at a yard sale for $150. Best money I ever spent. Wouldn't buy one new though. Thanks so much for the video...
I was going to buy another one for $2,300 the first one was bought for $1,500 in 2014 . Got 10 years out of it . I used it to pull trailer around the yard and the older kids drove around our 3/4 acre yard. It was used hard but did once of year total maintenance on it and garage kept. After watching your video I now am purchasing a new transmission and drive belt and pulleys for it for $550 total. Thank you for explaining how it works and the issues . You saved me here I was not wanting to buy another one now.
Very interesting video. I have replaced both pulleys, the clutch cam and all 3 belts. As a result, my D105 will now move in forward and reverse gears. However, on starting it will only crawl slowly in forward and reverse modes, but eventually with much coaxing picks up to a brisk walking speed. Engaging the mower does not appear to reduce the speed, so I have been able to cut the grass twice. However the tractor struggles to climb a modest incline. The motor is powerful and does a great job cutting the grass, without any loss in speed. I've noticed that fully depressing the "gas" pedal does little to speed up the tractor, in fact the speed may even slow down somewhat. I am coming to the conclusion that the trans itself may have been damaged by wear and tear over the past 11 years and 328 hours of operation. I would value your opinion and anyone else who has faced the same problem.
Good video! My D105 with only 86 hours is just now starting to complain when going up the slightest inclines or when turning sharp. It's fine on the straightaways. I just need to now figure out how to get it apart to see what may be wrong based on your video.
Thanks for the video. I have the same transaxle in my mower, which failed exactly the same way...bearing siezed up and plastic melted. I was given the mower so I don't feel too bad about dropping $150 for new parts. I read a post somewhere that recommended replacing that bearing(in the new parts) with a high quality verson from Timken or similar.
The main problem with those Transmissions is grass building up on top of them and jamming those moving parts up there. You would not believe how hard it can pack down into the groves on the top and jam everything. You need a screwdriver to loosen it up! I take out my battery every couple of years and get all the grass off the top, & out of the control levers up there. Use vacuum or air pressure, NOT water, since water will get in the bearings which are poorly sealed. Reach under the back of the transmission & take any grass out of there too. If you have a leaf blower blow the grass out every time you mow. Stick it above the rear wheel and blow toward the top of the transmission. Do the deck too. Blow the grass out of the engine cooling fins occasionally. Check the 2 or 3 plastic idler pulleys under the frame to make sure they spin freely with the parking brake on. If they feel rough when you turn them, change them before they ruin your drive belt. The same with the ones on the mower base. Don't get them wet either. Blow everything clean with air, or shop vacuum it off once in a while. Bearings hate water in them. When you change the axle grease seals, go around the joint where they go into the transmission with any kind of caulking or gasket maker so that they can't walk their way out again, which is what usually happens. You can ignore leaking around the axle unless it gets excessive. That entire trans is filled with a huge amount of grease from the factory. Never work near belts on a mower with the engine running. It is like a lathe. Your clothing or even long hair can get caught in there and get you killed. It recently happened to a hobbyist near me while using a small lathe in his garage. Even rings on fingers have gotten people killed by getting caught on rotating machinery & pulling them into rotating parts.
Great video Dude!!! My buddy's mower has locked it's diff totally, the left foot floor lever won't depress, the wee rear push/pull lever to move the mower makes no difference, you can rock the mower forward and backward a small amount but that is a real good clunk clunk.......is I possibly a fully seized bearing??? 😉😎
Thanks for the comment. Regarding your issue I think there may be another problem you are experiencing. It could be the mechanism on the transmission that changes the forward and reverse that could be jammed or there is even a possibility of internal damage. Either way you will have to drop transmission to inspect everything.
@@mr_fixit hi Man and thanks for replying ! Yes the forward and reverse lever is activating just fine , it's shaft into the trans looks fine , the thing that has me scratching my head is it's locked up , the start lever won't depress , there is no nuetral ... I'm sure something inside has gone real not good 😎🙃😉 thanks again !!!
@@mr_fixit hello again, yes the more I've thought about it, I remember laying under it shifting the lever forward/backward and it felt too smooth like no form of engagement noise/feel. I double checked to be sure the lever was still locked to the shaft and it was so I think you might be on the money... currently it's with my buddy's son in-law who's an awesome young engineer......phew I dodged that job 👏 Thankyou for your help!!! Very appreciated 😁 regards Deane and love from New Zealand 😉😎
Question - What size screw do I need for the spring and washer fix? Mine popped off in the yard and it’s highly unlikely I’ll find it. 🤪 Thankfully I found the washer.
Ug, started this journey looking for a muffler. Now I see there was a recall if the d105 for tranny parts, etc. hum so now I'm here. Lol good video. -) I don't want to be a mechanic. Lol, Ms. Johnson. :/
I love the video I love how you explained it. But what is the name of that part that fails that plastic piece with the bearing in it?What is the name of that park
Well it's not just JD, companies figured out that if they make something to last they'll go out of business so that's why alot of them are making junk nowadays.
Hey man I just replaced the plastic gear selector plate on top of my d105 transmission like you pointed at in this video. To get it off I had to remove the metal brake/clutch lever with the spring to the right of the gear selector plate. When I did that a bunch of air came out of the transmission. I noticed the brake/clutch lever has an o ring on it to keep everything air tight I guess. Anyways I put the transmission all back together and now it won’t move. Both the belts spin whenever I press on the gas but nothing happens. I made sure to take off the parking brake and checked the level in the back of the mower multiple times. Any ideas what I did wrong and how do I fix it ?
Would replacing the primary pulley (furthest one back) fix the D105 not going up hills? I've replaced the secondary pulley spring, the long drive belt from the engine back to the primary, and it does not want to go up even the smallest incline. Everything is clean, the brake isnt obstructed, and other than that the tractor runs well. It hits a normal top speed in reverse and forward on a flat surface... 270 hours.
@@mr_fixit I don't think the belt was original, and I'm not sure it looked absolutely terrible, but I replaced it and the secondary variator (came as a kit with the secondary spring and hardware on Amazon). Blew it all off with a leaf blower, although it wasn't that dirty (I keep it clean and in the garage when not in use). After getting it back together, it climbed hills great on my short test ride - maybe the belt was junk after all. We'll see how it does once i get the deck re-attached, and it's mowing while climbing the hills. Thanks man!
@@sunapeelakers check for fine black dust in the area and make sure everything is moving freely. I did once before threw a secondary belt on there cause original broke and was fine at first but rear pulley bearing was starting to seize and was wearing belt down little bit at a time till it made it almost half the original thickness and it would barely move.
My D105 goes in reverse and moves but does not go forward. The selector arm is really rough to put it in reverse but it will go but it won’t go into drive or move. What do you think is stuck or broken? Thanks.
There is a selector guide piece that may have jumped too far. That would be my best guess and transmission will have to probably come out to confirm that's the problem.
Do you know if the replacement parts are upgraded? It would stink to go through all that work, and then have to do it again, because the parts aren’t reinforced
That's a good question but unfortunately I don't know. I do know that so far I haven't replaced an after market one but only the oem ones that have failed.
Excellent instructional video. I spent way too much time,effort and worry trying to diagnose my mowers issue. I just did not want to think that a transmission with so few hours would fail and the cost of a replacement was a real issue! I am relieved to see that 4 screws and $100 part solved all of my problems. Thank you!
Yep, unfortunately more and more brands are making junk these days since they know there is no money to be made if they sell you a product that lasts 10, 15 or even 20 years. That's becoming a trend with everything to be less reliable and poorly made ... cars, electric, etc.
Having a jd just means you got a cheap plastic junk trans JD should be ashamed of themselves for saleing this junk I usually just buy both of them and after that they need to get rid of it
I believe it's only the 100 and 105 jd that had the plastic transmission set up but regardless you are right, JD should be ashamed of charging people premium $ for a crap product.
Either the belt is worn or there could be excessive wear on the plastic selector piece and not fully engaging reverse but not common issues unless it has a ton of hours on the machine.
Yes, the hydro or manual is the way to go. Craftsman, Husky, Troy Bilt and Cub Cadet had a similar set up but very simple design and never had an issue other than the belt getting old and dry and start slipping up hill or tensioner pulley freezing up from sitting.
The only video of these plastic units that even begins to explain how they work. This video gave me enough information to make a "guess" where to begin looking for my particular problem. Bullseye...Parts are on the way. Decided to remove it out of the machine to completely clean it and inspect everything. If you have more than a couple hundred hours on yours, it's worth it. Hubby acts like I'm an alien from another planet when I'm in the shop tinkering with my mower. Bought it 6 yrs ago at a yard sale for $150. Best money I ever spent. Wouldn't buy one new though. Thanks so much for the video...
Glad I can help. Your husband is a lucky man to have an 👽 mechanic 😆
@@mr_fixit great Job, clear, and to the point... Thanks.
Nice description of the transmission. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I was going to buy another one for $2,300 the first one was bought for $1,500 in 2014 . Got 10 years out of it . I used it to pull trailer around the yard and the older kids drove around our 3/4 acre yard. It was used hard but did once of year total maintenance on it and garage kept. After watching your video I now am purchasing a new transmission and drive belt and pulleys for it for $550 total. Thank you for explaining how it works and the issues . You saved me here I was not wanting to buy another one now.
Glad I can help. Thank you for watching.
Very interesting video. I have replaced both pulleys, the clutch cam and all 3 belts. As a result, my D105 will now move in forward and reverse gears. However, on starting it will only crawl slowly in forward and reverse modes, but eventually with much coaxing picks up to a brisk walking speed. Engaging the mower does not appear to reduce the speed, so I have been able to cut the grass twice. However the tractor struggles to climb a modest incline. The motor is powerful and does a great job cutting the grass, without any loss in speed. I've noticed that fully depressing the "gas" pedal does little to speed up the tractor, in fact the speed may even slow down somewhat. I am coming to the conclusion that the trans itself may have been damaged by wear and tear over the past 11 years and 328 hours of operation. I would value your opinion and anyone else who has faced the same problem.
Good video! My D105 with only 86 hours is just now starting to complain when going up the slightest inclines or when turning sharp. It's fine on the straightaways. I just need to now figure out how to get it apart to see what may be wrong based on your video.
Thank you for sharing information 😊
No problem. Thank you for watching
Thanks for the video. I have the same transaxle in my mower, which failed exactly the same way...bearing siezed up and plastic melted. I was given the mower so I don't feel too bad about dropping $150 for new parts. I read a post somewhere that recommended replacing that bearing(in the new parts) with a high quality verson from Timken or similar.
Thanks for sharing and thank you for watching.
Useful information very well explained thank you
Thank you for watching
The main problem with those Transmissions is grass building up on top of them and jamming those moving parts up there. You would not believe how hard it can pack down into the groves on the top and jam everything. You need a screwdriver to loosen it up! I take out my battery every couple of years and get all the grass off the top, & out of the control levers up there. Use vacuum or air pressure, NOT water, since water will get in the bearings which are poorly sealed. Reach under the back of the transmission & take any grass out of there too. If you have a leaf blower blow the grass out every time you mow. Stick it above the rear wheel and blow toward the top of the transmission. Do the deck too. Blow the grass out of the engine cooling fins occasionally. Check the 2 or 3 plastic idler pulleys under the frame to make sure they spin freely with the parking brake on. If they feel rough when you turn them, change them before they ruin your drive belt. The same with the ones on the mower base. Don't get them wet either. Blow everything clean with air, or shop vacuum it off once in a while. Bearings hate water in them.
When you change the axle grease seals, go around the joint where they go into the transmission with any kind of caulking or gasket maker so that they can't walk their way out again, which is what usually happens. You can ignore leaking around the axle unless it gets excessive. That entire trans is filled with a huge amount of grease from the factory.
Never work near belts on a mower with the engine running. It is like a lathe. Your clothing or even long hair can get caught in there and get you killed. It recently happened to a hobbyist near me while using a small lathe in his garage. Even rings on fingers have gotten people killed by getting caught on rotating machinery & pulling them into rotating parts.
Man I appreciate you… great video
Thank you for watching.
Thanks very helpful video
Happy to hear that. Thank you for watching.
Great video Dude!!! My buddy's mower has locked it's diff totally, the left foot floor lever won't depress, the wee rear push/pull lever to move the mower makes no difference, you can rock the mower forward and backward a small amount but that is a real good clunk clunk.......is I possibly a fully seized bearing??? 😉😎
Thanks for the comment. Regarding your issue I think there may be another problem you are experiencing. It could be the mechanism on the transmission that changes the forward and reverse that could be jammed or there is even a possibility of internal damage. Either way you will have to drop transmission to inspect everything.
@@mr_fixit hi Man and thanks for replying ! Yes the forward and reverse lever is activating just fine , it's shaft into the trans looks fine , the thing that has me scratching my head is it's locked up , the start lever won't depress , there is no nuetral ... I'm sure something inside has gone real not good 😎🙃😉 thanks again !!!
@@mr_fixit hello again, yes the more I've thought about it, I remember laying under it shifting the lever forward/backward and it felt too smooth like no form of engagement noise/feel. I double checked to be sure the lever was still locked to the shaft and it was so I think you might be on the money... currently it's with my buddy's son in-law who's an awesome young engineer......phew I dodged that job 👏 Thankyou for your help!!! Very appreciated 😁 regards Deane and love from New Zealand 😉😎
That's crazy with those low hours having that issue! My L110 has 968 still rolling glad I don't have the new shiny ones.
Yep, unfortunately the saying "they don't make them like they use to" is very true when it comes to John Deere
Question - What size screw do I need for the spring and washer fix? Mine popped off in the yard and it’s highly unlikely I’ll find it. 🤪 Thankfully I found the washer.
Ug, started this journey looking for a muffler. Now I see there was a recall if the d105 for tranny parts, etc. hum so now I'm here. Lol good video. -) I don't want to be a mechanic. Lol, Ms. Johnson. :/
I love the video I love how you explained it. But what is the name of that part that fails that plastic piece with the bearing in it?What is the name of that park
John Deere has a habit of punching themselves in the face.
Well it's not just JD, companies figured out that if they make something to last they'll go out of business so that's why alot of them are making junk nowadays.
Good thing there was a recall on these transmissions. Junk
👍
Hey man I just replaced the plastic gear selector plate on top of my d105 transmission like you pointed at in this video. To get it off I had to remove the metal brake/clutch lever with the spring to the right of the gear selector plate. When I did that a bunch of air came out of the transmission. I noticed the brake/clutch lever has an o ring on it to keep everything air tight I guess. Anyways I put the transmission all back together and now it won’t move. Both the belts spin whenever I press on the gas but nothing happens. I made sure to take off the parking brake and checked the level in the back of the mower multiple times. Any ideas what I did wrong and how do I fix it ?
Would replacing the primary pulley (furthest one back) fix the D105 not going up hills? I've replaced the secondary pulley spring, the long drive belt from the engine back to the primary, and it does not want to go up even the smallest incline. Everything is clean, the brake isnt obstructed, and other than that the tractor runs well. It hits a normal top speed in reverse and forward on a flat surface... 270 hours.
You may need to replace the short belt it could be glazed if original or worn down so it's skinnier and slipping on the pulleys
@@mr_fixit I don't think the belt was original, and I'm not sure it looked absolutely terrible, but I replaced it and the secondary variator (came as a kit with the secondary spring and hardware on Amazon). Blew it all off with a leaf blower, although it wasn't that dirty (I keep it clean and in the garage when not in use). After getting it back together, it climbed hills great on my short test ride - maybe the belt was junk after all. We'll see how it does once i get the deck re-attached, and it's mowing while climbing the hills. Thanks man!
@@sunapeelakers check for fine black dust in the area and make sure everything is moving freely. I did once before threw a secondary belt on there cause original broke and was fine at first but rear pulley bearing was starting to seize and was wearing belt down little bit at a time till it made it almost half the original thickness and it would barely move.
Whats the best trick to get that spring to go down with the medal top
No trick really just push it hard
@mr_fixit does the screw need to be all the way down tight?
@@typhoonmichael7742 yes
Zip ties spring to compress then when screw seated cut ties to release spring
good video, does anyone know the bearing numbers for the primary clutch
Sorry, I don't.
Could the problems you discussed in the video cause the rear wheels to not want to turn or roll. I can not push the mower?
Did you pull the pin in the back to disengage the transmission before trying to push the mower.
I looked all around there and saw the sticker showing how to do that. But I couldn't find any pin to pull.
@@VintageNomad0275 that's strange. Unless someone already messed around with the transmission and never put the pin back...
@@VintageNomad0275 Only held on by a small cap nut. If it came off the pin itself will just fall out from vibration.
My D105 goes in reverse and moves but does not go forward. The selector arm is really rough to put it in reverse but it will go but it won’t go into drive or move. What do you think is stuck or broken? Thanks.
There is a selector guide piece that may have jumped too far. That would be my best guess and transmission will have to probably come out to confirm that's the problem.
Would u happen to have part numbers to those 2 parts. Mine drives really slow.
I'm sorry I do not. You can call your local JD dealer and ask for the part number. Thank you for watching.
What is name of the part that I need to order for the back pulley system?
What could be the problem on a D105 that is not variable, seems like it only goes about 2mph max?
Is it slow in both forward and reverse? If that's the case, most likely the main drive belt is stretched or worn.
@mr_fixit yes sir both directions. Thanks for the help. I'll check that out!
How to replace a rear axle seal on a D105 John deer lawnmower
I have noticed sometimes it doesn't want to engage in reverse. :(
Do you know if the replacement parts are upgraded? It would stink to go through all that work, and then have to do it again, because the parts aren’t reinforced
That's a good question but unfortunately I don't know. I do know that so far I haven't replaced an after market one but only the oem ones that have failed.
Excellent instructional video.
I spent way too much time,effort and worry trying to diagnose my mowers issue. I just did not want to think that a transmission with so few hours would fail and the cost of a replacement was a real issue!
I am relieved to see that 4 screws and $100 part solved all of my problems. Thank you!
Chris, where did you order your part from?
Made with plastic on purpose, to not last and non serviceable plastic transmission so youll have to buy new one when it breaks.
Correct 😢
Yep, unfortunately more and more brands are making junk these days since they know there is no money to be made if they sell you a product that lasts 10, 15 or even 20 years. That's becoming a trend with everything to be less reliable and poorly made ... cars, electric, etc.
Good video on 105 tranny.
Thank you 👍
Oh wow my went out today freaking junk lol
Definitely not the best choice that JD made for transmission on these units.
Having a jd just means you got a cheap plastic junk trans
JD should be ashamed of themselves for saleing this junk
I usually just buy both of them and after that they need to get rid of it
I believe it's only the 100 and 105 jd that had the plastic transmission set up but regardless you are right, JD should be ashamed of charging people premium $ for a crap product.
I have no reverse, seems like slipping
Either the belt is worn or there could be excessive wear on the plastic selector piece and not fully engaging reverse but not common issues unless it has a ton of hours on the machine.
just don't buy the d105,the d100 is cheaper and better with a manual transmission,the d110 has a true hydrostatic trans which is good
Yes, the hydro or manual is the way to go. Craftsman, Husky, Troy Bilt and Cub Cadet had a similar set up but very simple design and never had an issue other than the belt getting old and dry and start slipping up hill or tensioner pulley freezing up from sitting.
Wake up, JD is not a good company and therefore they make junk😢
Most box store JD are trash. You need to go to JD dealership and get the X series I believe. That's completely different class.