Thank you very much for this review. I’d love to refinish a dining room table with this paint ~ the table is real wood (maple I think), already painted (not by me, it came painted). I am wondering if I should prime any areas where I plan on painting and if yes, what primer do you suggest? I’m in the US so can get anything available in the states. I want it to be durable as it’ll be a kitchen table (chairs hitting the base, plates, cups on the surface once fully cured). I can get this paint local so I’d love to try it. Thank you.
Yes I would clean, scuff sand and prime - I love Lilly moon paint stainblocking primer, I like rustoleum 3 n 1 sandable filler primer, melange stain blocker and there are many more that will work just fine too 😀
Thank You for this video! This is exactly the brand and color I was looking at. I was debating between Fusion and Gereral finishes. Glad I found your channel! Im now looking at primer for an old antique piece that I think the tannins will blead through and the next project is our bathroom tiled fireplace!! primer, paint and stencil. Thanks again!!!
I've been trying to find a video for general finishes and how to effectively create crackle and chipped look with their milk paint. Can you recommend a video tutorial?
I personally don't do that finish. Keep in mind the GF milk paint is not a actual casein based milk paint intended to chip or give that old antique look - it is a water based acrylic paint. You may want to try Fusion Milk Paint - a true chippy milk paint (any that is in powder from that you have to mix with water is a chippy casein milk paint)
sylvia seri agreed! Although GF milk paint is self leveling which helps with brush strokes, as well as using any one of the three methods which can be used to help minimize the appearance of brush strokes. I personally use water with a mister when applying with a brush. I have used extender and floetrol. Extender will help you have a longer open time (not necessarily used as a thinner). Now, spraying - yes if you have a sprayer I would recommend spraying, this paint sprays flawlessly. Thinning with deionized water works best and I can’t tell you exactly how much to thin, as each color has its own consistency and will need more or less. Just start with a little water at a time.
Dave Morris I haven’t used that particular poly so I can’t speak to that brand exactly - are you using the water or oil based? I would not use an oil base top coat over paint as it will amber or yellow the finish. It will deepen the color a tad - I use GF high performance top coat (water based) in satin over all my painted projects and have no issues. You what to be carful over whites as well
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Thank you! I sanded the Minwax off and applied the GF high performance satin. I must say it is a lot easier to work with. I threw the Minwax in the trash and will only use the GF top coat from now on. Thanks again!
Dave Morris your welcome, yes it is - that is why it’s my favorite! I’m so glad it worked well for you. Thanks for the update, I love it hearing a good outcome!
You do not always need to prime. It depends on what you are painting over (cherry, mahogany, golden oak) those can tend to bleed and if painting a white or light color I would definitely prime or shellac to prevent that bleed through. You also want to prime when paining bare sanded wood to give the paint something to grab onto and not soak into the raw wood
I love all the paint reviews. I love that I found your channel! I’ve been doing my research on starting to redo furniture and your videos have been incredibly helpful to my newbie self!
Hi Olivia - I am so glad you found me too! I am glad that the videos are informative and helpful. I do them because I wish I had the same available to me when I first started out! If there is anything specific you want to see let me know! I take requests!
Amazing channel, it's great to see another small RUclipsr like myself building a strong subscriber count. Your videos are very professional, keep up the hard work. I have a few quick questions, though. I'm planning on painting a buffet with the General Finishes Milk Paint [Lamp Black] that was previously painted with a bright white water-based paint. Do I need a primer because of the color jump or can I get away with just sanding it a little and using 2 or 3 coats? Also, you recommend General Finishes Extender in this video but I've seen you talk about Floetrol in another video. Do you recommend one over the other when using this particular Milk Paint? Thanks, thanks, and more thanks.
Matthew Marquit Thank you very much! You don’t have to but if I’m painting over previous paint, I would scuff snd prime and I would use a gray tinted primer which will help that coverage from white to black happen easier as well as prevent any reaction from old paint to new paint that can happen. I have used both extender and floetrol - different price points and slightly different formulas, I prefer GF extender. The floetrol will reduce brush strokes and if spraying - reduce clogging in your spray gun. Extender is a setting additive used to improve flow and leveling and slow the dry time of water based paint. I hope this helps!
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Another hopefully quick set of questions, if it isn't too much. I bought two pints of this milk paint online and it took 2 days to ship. I live in AZ and it's VERY hot here. When I opened the box one of the pints was dented (but still sealed) so I'm assuming they were shaken, and they were both very hot. I'd imagine the paint was exposed to 90-120 degree temperatures off and on for the better part of the 2 days. Do you think the paint is still fine to use? If so, how long would you personally wait before using it? I'm worried both about bubbles and heat damage. I tried looking this stuff up on the internet but it's hard to find information on short term heat exposure. Thanks again.
Matthew Marquit hi. As far as the dent goes no problem, I have had many quarts and gallons a little dented in shipping. As far heat affecting your paint that is in a sealed container you should be ok to use, don’t shake but stir really well when ready to use.
Than you for the review and since I am new to furniture painting this is an excellent review and very helpful. Any way you can review the color spectrum of GF milk paint that would be awesome. :)
I’m looking at color combinations of colors and stains in the color spectrum in the GF line to see what has been used by others. I did check out their website as you suggested and did see completed projects. I’m thinking color combinations would be a good video anyway. Thanks
@@genna2586 Yes their website has a great gallery as well as they have a mixing lab (showing what colors you can mix to make custom colors). I and not sure I could make a useful/helpful video with that content, I'll have to think about that one! :)
Born in a Barn Boutique yes, to showcase the options. I am buying online and in person so seeing color options displayed is helpful. Not sure if you get samples etc. and your favorites would be nice to see and why.
Really appreciate your channel. Thank you! I want to paint my dining table and 4 chairs. What suggestion would you share as to the type of paint and topcoat that could stand up to plates dragging across, glasses with condensation and getting wiped down constantly?
Thank you. Well keep in mind no paint and topcoat are impervious to water. However, you definitely can paint, I would recommend the most durable products such as: General Finishes brushable white enamel (topcoat in formula) can be tinted), wise owl one hour enamel (topcoat in formula), fusion mineral paint with topcoat (I use GF high performance top coat).
Thanks for sharing this information. I have never used used milk or chalk paint before so everything is foreign to me. This was so helpful, I actually ordered the black General Finished Milk Paint from Amazon for an old armoire I found in the attic of a home we owned many years ago, I'm anxious to start my project! Your voice is quite soft and had a little hard time hearing. Thanks though! Very informative!
Donna Hulstein your welcome - lamp black is beautiful - I just finished a hutch in this and it came out beautiful! Yes this was with my iPhone (not the best mic when your s few feet away) before I got my new camera with a better mic! Thank you for watching and happy painting 😀
The Feathered Hag So to be safe you may want too. I would clean with (my preference is Krud Kutter - degreaser) which will not only clean but take down some of slickness/shininess. I have painted veneers without primer but I scuffed the surface first with a fine grit sandpaper to give the paint something to grab onto. It’s a total preference to prime and not always required. On laminate, any surface that isn’t wood I would for sure. Veneer is wood so you could degrease and scuff and you would be ok.
Born in a Barn Boutique yes I also use Krud Kutter, and sometimes a deglosser as well, but was wondering how well it adheres vs chalk. Thank you so much for responding 😊
I am looking into different paints. I want to paint a tall dresser turned into a hutch pink. Then I want to add a crackle and another bluish color in top. Is there a way to do this with General Finishes milk paint?
Sheri Karanasos I haven’t personally worked with a crackle finish other than once a long time ago, its not a look that I get requested ever. If you go the the GF page you can get more information on this. I’m not sure of the milk paint, but they used to make a chalk paint and you could apply crackle effect (valspar brand) over it - I’m not sure if the effect will work with their acrylic milk paint the same. They have a great website full of info.
I am a big fan of Cling On Brushes - I use the F50 for most of my projects. One of the best brushes hands down. Self Cleaning, they don't shed and they minimize brush strokes. I have an affiliate link and discount code for you if you want to use - www.wiseowlpaint.com?aff=12 - discount code: borninabarn
Decided I like dark chocolate milk water base more than java gel stain. I didn’t seal the gel stain and wanted to know if can I go over with the milk paint?
Tamara Leitte Yes but there are a few things to be aware of - that stain needs to dry for at least 72 hours before attempting to go over it. I have done this but sanded first and then primed over the stain, you have a water based product going over an oil based product and there could be adhesion issues if not prepped accordingly.
I went ahead and bought that F50 cling on brush and also this General Finishes. All because of your recommendations. I have done all the dresser drawers and I sanded it before and then I put the paint on and then it says that you're supposed to stand it in between but I really didn't think that was necessary but I did it. Your recommendation please, do you sand it after the first coat. I'm going to be doing the size of the dresser, the top of the dresser and a big mirror around it. eagerly waiting to hear from you. as always thank you so much
Hi! Thank you. I have done Annie Sloan, Fusion Mineral Paint, Rustoleum Chalked, Heirloom Traditions, Dixie Bell & Valspar. Coming up - Country Chic and yes Wise Owl - Paint on order for those videos!
Thank you for this great video! By far one of the most helpful I've seen. I have a piece of furniture that was previously painted with Fusion Mineral paint. Do I need to do anything special before covering with the General Finishes Milk Paint?
Thanks for this video. Would like your opinion for my next project. Redoing my dining room table and chairs and I would like to use a milk paint GF instead of chalk paint to get a more satiny finish. I will use a charcoal for the tables skirt and pedestals (2) and the 2 extensions and the chairs. I would like to keep the top in a stained natural wood (eg: gel stain?) it is a large piece with 8 chairs all of this set is solid ash wood. I will be working indoors because it is to cold in my garage (-10 C). Would you recommend prepping the top of the table with a low door gel stripper then light hand sanding for the table top and seats. Also can I do this with a quart or do I need more? Again thanks your videos are inspiring
Micheline Poulos-Gardner Hi there! So yes it would be best to work in the warmer temps when working with the products. If you are going to work indoors to prep as well, I would recommend Blue Bear Soy Gel Stripper. I have asthma and don’t like to use heavy smelling products, this is s good stripper and has a lower odor than most. A quart of gel should do it, but it depends on how many coats you plan on giving everything. I would say for this size table tops you should be good with the quart! As for using GF milk paint, great choice, it’s my top paint and on it’s own has great durability, since it has a top coat built in. For the best results, you want to get off all the existing finish that is going to be stained, so that you don’t get a painted on look, you get to see the beautiful wood grain, so you are on the right track with stripping and sanding! I’m so glad my videos are helpful and let me know how your project comes out!
I love your videos. My first few projects were small and I used Chalked paint from Home Depot. I ordered GF milk paint in Westminster Green and a Cling On F150 brush to do my big dresser - WOW, what a difference! Thank you for all your very helpful videos, I really enjoy them. I'm loving updating our home, again, thanks so much!
Thank you so much! Right? Huge difference when you use good products and tools! So glad you find them helpful and are having fun! You are more than welcome!
Blessed and Favored This was done with my iPhone (not that great of a mic) I have since upgrade to a better video camera with a better mic! Yes I will though pay attention to that though! 😀
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much for this review. I’d love to refinish a dining room table with this paint ~ the table is real wood (maple I think), already painted (not by me, it came painted). I am wondering if I should prime any areas where I plan on painting and if yes, what primer do you suggest? I’m in the US so can get anything available in the states. I want it to be durable as it’ll be a kitchen table (chairs hitting the base, plates, cups on the surface once fully cured). I can get this paint local so I’d love to try it. Thank you.
Yes I would clean, scuff sand and prime - I love Lilly moon paint stainblocking primer, I like rustoleum 3 n 1 sandable filler primer, melange stain blocker and there are many more that will work just fine too 😀
Thank You for this video! This is exactly the brand and color I was looking at. I was debating between Fusion and Gereral finishes. Glad I found your channel! Im now looking at primer for an old antique piece that I think the tannins will blead through and the next project is our bathroom tiled fireplace!! primer, paint and stencil. Thanks again!!!
Your so welcome, thank you for watching! Good luck on the next project, happy painting! 😁
Just bought GF Coastal Blue for a dresser. I've never used milk paint, so looking for advice and you've answered my questions. Thank you so much!
Diana oh you will love coastal blue! I’m so glad it was helpful! Happy painting! 😀
I've been trying to find a video for general finishes and how to effectively create crackle and chipped look with their milk paint. Can you recommend a video tutorial?
I personally don't do that finish. Keep in mind the GF milk paint is not a actual casein based milk paint intended to chip or give that old antique look - it is a water based acrylic paint. You may want to try Fusion Milk Paint - a true chippy milk paint (any that is in powder from that you have to mix with water is a chippy casein milk paint)
I just started a project for a desk with coastal blue color, my question to you is: can I use a sponge or what kind of brush should I use?
You can use a sponge, but I prefer a synthetic brush, my favorite is a Cling On F50, Zibra brushes are also great and a more economical choice.
I hate brush strokes. Would you advise spraying this on kitchen cabs? Should it be diluted with water, GF extender or floetrol? Thanks
sylvia seri agreed! Although GF milk paint is self leveling which helps with brush strokes, as well as using any one of the three methods which can be used to help minimize the appearance of brush strokes. I personally use water with a mister when applying with a brush. I have used extender and floetrol. Extender will help you have a longer open time (not necessarily used as a thinner). Now, spraying - yes if you have a sprayer I would recommend spraying, this paint sprays flawlessly. Thinning with deionized water works best and I can’t tell you exactly how much to thin, as each color has its own consistency and will need more or less. Just start with a little water at a time.
Born in a Barn Boutique. Thanks so much!
Please remind others that this is not a true milk paint. It is not chippy and doesn’t need any additives. Have you had luck spraying it?
When using GF Milk paint would applying Minwax Wipe on Poly clear satin change the color of the GF Finish?
Dave Morris I haven’t used that particular poly so I can’t speak to that brand exactly - are you using the water or oil based? I would not use an oil base top coat over paint as it will amber or yellow the finish. It will deepen the color a tad - I use GF high performance top coat (water based) in satin over all my painted projects and have no issues. You what to be carful over whites as well
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Thank you! I sanded the Minwax off and applied the GF high performance satin. I must say it is a lot easier to work with. I threw the Minwax in the trash and will only use the GF top coat from now on. Thanks again!
Dave Morris your welcome, yes it is - that is why it’s my favorite! I’m so glad it worked well for you. Thanks for the update, I love it hearing a good outcome!
Do you have to prime before applying?
You do not always need to prime. It depends on what you are painting over (cherry, mahogany, golden oak) those can tend to bleed and if painting a white or light color I would definitely prime or shellac to prevent that bleed through. You also want to prime when paining bare sanded wood to give the paint something to grab onto and not soak into the raw wood
@@BorninaBarnBoutique thank you!
Thanks for telling us about how much it will cover, I have been trying to figure that out and how much to buy
I love all the paint reviews. I love that I found your channel! I’ve been doing my research on starting to redo furniture and your videos have been incredibly helpful to my newbie self!
Hi Olivia - I am so glad you found me too! I am glad that the videos are informative and helpful. I do them because I wish I had the same available to me when I first started out! If there is anything specific you want to see let me know! I take requests!
Amazing channel, it's great to see another small RUclipsr like myself building a strong subscriber count. Your videos are very professional, keep up the hard work.
I have a few quick questions, though. I'm planning on painting a buffet with the General Finishes Milk Paint [Lamp Black] that was previously painted with a bright white water-based paint. Do I need a primer because of the color jump or can I get away with just sanding it a little and using 2 or 3 coats?
Also, you recommend General Finishes Extender in this video but I've seen you talk about Floetrol in another video. Do you recommend one over the other when using this particular Milk Paint? Thanks, thanks, and more thanks.
Matthew Marquit Thank you very much! You don’t have to but if I’m painting over previous paint, I would scuff snd prime and I would use a gray tinted primer which will help that coverage from white to black happen easier as well as prevent any reaction from old paint to new paint that can happen. I have used both extender and floetrol - different price points and slightly different formulas, I prefer GF extender. The floetrol will reduce brush strokes and if spraying - reduce clogging in your spray gun. Extender is a setting additive used to improve flow and leveling and slow the dry time of water based paint. I hope this helps!
@@BorninaBarnBoutique This helps a ton. Thank you for your great advice.
Matthew Marquit of course! 😀
@@BorninaBarnBoutique Another hopefully quick set of questions, if it isn't too much. I bought two pints of this milk paint online and it took 2 days to ship. I live in AZ and it's VERY hot here. When I opened the box one of the pints was dented (but still sealed) so I'm assuming they were shaken, and they were both very hot. I'd imagine the paint was exposed to 90-120 degree temperatures off and on for the better part of the 2 days.
Do you think the paint is still fine to use? If so, how long would you personally wait before using it? I'm worried both about bubbles and heat damage. I tried looking this stuff up on the internet but it's hard to find information on short term heat exposure. Thanks again.
Matthew Marquit hi. As far as the dent goes no problem, I have had many quarts and gallons a little dented in shipping. As far heat affecting your paint that is in a sealed container you should be ok to use, don’t shake but stir really well when ready to use.
Than you for the review and since I am new to furniture painting this is an excellent review and very helpful. Any way you can review the color spectrum of GF milk paint that would be awesome. :)
Genna25 your welcome! Thank you so much! What are you looking for as far as the GF milk paint color spectrum goes?
I’m looking at color combinations of colors and stains in the color spectrum in the GF line to see what has been used by others. I did check out their website as you suggested and did see completed projects. I’m thinking color combinations would be a good video anyway. Thanks
@@genna2586 Yes their website has a great gallery as well as they have a mixing lab (showing what colors you can mix to make custom colors). I and not sure I could make a useful/helpful video with that content, I'll have to think about that one! :)
Born in a Barn Boutique yes, to showcase the options. I am buying online and in person so seeing color options displayed is helpful. Not sure if you get samples etc. and your favorites would be nice to see and why.
Really appreciate your channel. Thank you! I want to paint my dining table and 4 chairs. What suggestion would you share as to the type of paint and topcoat that could stand up to plates dragging across, glasses with condensation and getting wiped down constantly?
Thank you. Well keep in mind no paint and topcoat are impervious to water. However, you definitely can paint, I would recommend the most durable products such as: General Finishes brushable white enamel (topcoat in formula) can be tinted), wise owl one hour enamel (topcoat in formula), fusion mineral paint with topcoat (I use GF high performance top coat).
This segment was very informative for me
I’m so glad, thank you for watching
Thanks for sharing this information. I have never used used milk or chalk paint before so everything is foreign to me. This was so helpful, I actually ordered the black General Finished Milk Paint from Amazon for an old armoire I found in the attic of a home we owned many years ago, I'm anxious to start my project! Your voice is quite soft and had a little hard time hearing. Thanks though! Very informative!
Donna Hulstein your welcome - lamp black is beautiful - I just finished a hutch in this and it came out beautiful! Yes this was with my iPhone (not the best mic when your s few feet away) before I got my new camera with a better mic! Thank you for watching and happy painting 😀
If it’s a wood/veneer piece, do you have to prime first?
The Feathered Hag So to be safe you may want too. I would clean with (my preference is Krud Kutter - degreaser) which will not only clean but take down some of slickness/shininess. I have painted veneers without primer but I scuffed the surface first with a fine grit sandpaper to give the paint something to grab onto. It’s a total preference to prime and not always required. On laminate, any surface that isn’t wood I would for sure. Veneer is wood so you could degrease and scuff and you would be ok.
Born in a Barn Boutique yes I also use Krud Kutter, and sometimes a deglosser as well, but was wondering how well it adheres vs chalk. Thank you so much for responding 😊
The Feathered Hag it has a very good adherence - I would scuff up the piece and go! You don’t have to seal GF milk paint but for more durability I do!
I am looking into different paints. I want to paint a tall dresser turned into a hutch pink. Then I want to add a crackle and another bluish color in top. Is there a way to do this with General Finishes milk paint?
Sheri Karanasos I haven’t personally worked with a crackle finish other than once a long time ago, its not a look that I get requested ever. If you go the the GF page you can get more information on this. I’m not sure of the milk paint, but they used to make a chalk paint and you could apply crackle effect (valspar brand) over it - I’m not sure if the effect will work with their acrylic milk paint the same. They have a great website full of info.
can you tell me the best brush to use please :)
I am a big fan of Cling On Brushes - I use the F50 for most of my projects. One of the best brushes hands down. Self Cleaning, they don't shed and they minimize brush strokes. I have an affiliate link and discount code for you if you want to use - www.wiseowlpaint.com?aff=12 - discount code: borninabarn
Decided I like dark chocolate milk water base more than java gel stain. I didn’t seal the gel stain and wanted to know if can I go over with the milk paint?
Tamara Leitte Yes but there are a few things to be aware of - that stain needs to dry for at least 72 hours before attempting to go over it. I have done this but sanded first and then primed over the stain, you have a water based product going over an oil based product and there could be adhesion issues if not prepped accordingly.
I went ahead and bought that F50 cling on brush and also this General Finishes. All because of your recommendations. I have done all the dresser drawers and I sanded it before and then I put the paint on and then it says that you're supposed to stand it in between but I really didn't think that was necessary but I did it. Your recommendation please, do you sand it after the first coat. I'm going to be doing the size of the dresser, the top of the dresser and a big mirror around it. eagerly waiting to hear from you. as always thank you so much
Thanks for doing this, I’ve been wondering. What other paint lines have you reviewed? Hoping to hear wise owl 🦉😉
Hi! Thank you. I have done Annie Sloan, Fusion Mineral Paint, Rustoleum Chalked, Heirloom Traditions, Dixie Bell & Valspar. Coming up - Country Chic and yes Wise Owl - Paint on order for those videos!
Thank you for this great video! By far one of the most helpful I've seen. I have a piece of furniture that was previously painted with Fusion Mineral paint. Do I need to do anything special before covering with the General Finishes Milk Paint?
I would scuff sand the piece and wipe down - as long as no wax, hemp oil or topcoat you should have no issues
Thanks for this video. Would like your opinion for my next project. Redoing my dining room table and chairs and I would like to use a milk paint GF instead of chalk paint to get a more satiny finish. I will use a charcoal for the tables skirt and pedestals (2) and the 2 extensions and the chairs. I would like to keep the top in a stained natural wood (eg: gel stain?) it is a large piece with 8 chairs all of this set is solid ash wood. I will be working indoors because it is to cold in my garage (-10 C). Would you recommend prepping the top of the table with a low door gel stripper then light hand sanding for the table top and seats. Also can I do this with a quart or do I need more? Again thanks your videos are inspiring
Micheline Poulos-Gardner Hi there! So yes it would be best to work in the warmer temps when working with the products. If you are going to work indoors to prep as well, I would recommend Blue Bear Soy Gel Stripper. I have asthma and don’t like to use heavy smelling products, this is s good stripper and has a lower odor than most. A quart of gel should do it, but it depends on how many coats you plan on giving everything. I would say for this size table tops you should be good with the quart! As for using GF milk paint, great choice, it’s my top paint and on it’s own has great durability, since it has a top coat built in. For the best results, you want to get off all the existing finish that is going to be stained, so that you don’t get a painted on look, you get to see the beautiful wood grain, so you are on the right track with stripping and sanding! I’m so glad my videos are helpful and let me know how your project comes out!
I love your videos. My first few projects were small and I used Chalked paint from Home Depot. I ordered GF milk paint in Westminster Green and a Cling On F150 brush to do my big dresser - WOW, what a difference! Thank you for all your very helpful videos, I really enjoy them. I'm loving updating our home, again, thanks so much!
Thank you so much! Right? Huge difference when you use good products and tools! So glad you find them helpful and are having fun! You are more than welcome!
Thanks!! can you speak a little louder?
Blessed and Favored This was done with my iPhone (not that great of a mic) I have since upgrade to a better video camera with a better mic! Yes I will though pay attention to that though! 😀