Lower CPU Temperatures Just Need THIS!
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2021
- A simple, easy and cheap way to lower CPU temperatures has been something everyone looks for. Especially when it comes to lower ITX case temperatures. Now Noctua is launching the NA-FD1, a series of foam connectors that create a funnel between the side of your case and CPU cooler. Technically that should work but does it really lower CPU temperatures??
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Hey guys. Sorry about the audio at the beginning. Our primary mic crapped the bed and we only realized it mid-way through filming. We did everything we could to compensate in the edit but my apologies since no, this doesn't live up to our standards but it won't happen again since we found the culprit. :)
I don't even notice anything. Mic quality is a little less, we'll survive 🙂
Don't mind that, audio just fine compared to others
would be awesome to adapt something similar for gpus, sure will help with temperatures too. Major hardware already tried some duct for the gpu in an ATX case, and improved temps a lot
This looks like a joke product. Grabs black Friday extra packaging and opens knife 🔪. Cut to fit.
Hi please can u do a review for Decoche Gaming Headset Stereo Surround Sound Gaming Headphones thx
I'm reminded of old cases in the 90s and early 2000s that would have a plastic funnel on the side panel funnelling air from the cpu
Yeah, sometimes these were even spring-loaded.
I had a case like that but shame it didn't line up well so I just put a fan there.
Damn, is my case that old, lol
I had one of those
@@globalist1990 same
as many others mentioned, its old tech. but with a modern approach. i like it. its definitly a niche product, but for those few cases (ha, cases!) where its useful, its worth it.
Modern approach would be to 3d print exactly the size and shape funnel you need.
@@CJICantLie True, that would be great but they would probably need to study a lot of ITX cases to get the measurements right and even then, it most likely wouldn't work for every case due to height differences. Using a bit of armaflex insulation though, that's an easy diy. 😉
Not only is it showing 6°C lower temps, it also shows 100 to 250MHz higher clocks. Gonna consider such a solution.
It's showing that on the slower cores. For gaming.. this wouldn't help. I would be curious to see how the higher boosting cores respond as that effects gaming performance.
great that u noticed, that is important too.
@@christophermullins7163 True, but if the slower cores get a boost, I expect the faster ones to get a boost too.
I have an LH-l9i on a R5-3400g, in a tiny case without intake fan. It's not remotely comparable in terms of power dissipation, it's not even reaching 70°C under gaming load. I'll post results if I ever do add foams, for comparison's sake.
@@ujiltromm7358 I would expect the slower ones to get a huge boost compared to the faster ones. Running 3ghz takes 1/3 of the energy as running 4.7ghz.
Another benefit would be lower fan speeds. If it's getting feed "cool" air, the fan wouldn't need to ramp as much, albeit probably only 50-150rpm.
Can we just appreciate the great job that mike is doing in covering cooling stuff. it is awesome to have you on camera mike.
Thanks! - Mike
@@HardwareCanucks That's why I am still waiting for a review of the Noctua NH-U12A Chromax Black, which has been launched in October 2021. None of the "major" reviewers have taken a look at it and an answer as Gamers Nexus of "It's made by Noctua and it's a refinement of an existing model, so it will be good" doesn't cut it.
Used to make "ducts" like this with tape and milk cartons back in the mid 90s 😀. There was no science back then, but good to get the consept confirmed 30 years later 😜
Ha! I did the same in a Gigabyte 3D Aurora. - Mike
@@HardwareCanucks Turned my Jet engine XBOX360 into a purring pussycat and prevented the dreaded Red LED of Death from ever happening. Blew my Warranty within days of buying my 360 of course. Dismantled, re-timmed with whatever the TIM du jour was back in 2005 and was flabbergasted to see no shrouding/ducting around the heatsinks and rear pair of 80mm fans which remember where the only fans in the 360. ie. in otherwords those fans were pulling air from the sides of the chassis not from the front through the CPU and GPU Heatsinks. In effect the Heatsinks were almost like Passive heatsinks but with the rear exhaust fans pulling thqat passively heated air out of the 360 chassis. So I fabricated some Ducts with a breakfast cereal box and some duct tape from the front of the chassis over the heatsinks to the fans in the back. Put her back together and I had a near silent 360 and never suffered the dreaded RLOD like I said.
@@ca1ib0s All that and cutting out entire sections of the interior metal frame surrounding it underneath the plastic cover for more air flow.
I use rolls of adhesive foam strips from hardware stores. It’s cheap, sticky, and flexible. Easy to cut and stack. It also comes in various thicknesses. This means you can also use it on gpu’s.
Foam board from an arts and crafts store works pretty good too, gotta cut it yourself but as long as you get a seal between your fan and case it works pretty well
8:08 it's not only 6°c cooler, the clocks speeds are 200/250Mhz higher, a little oversight to talk about the actual performance and value imo...
This is true. However, when you average out all the cores (the others were cut off) the actual difference on average was about ~150MHz but good catch!
Cpu package Power looked same . Not sure how accurate the number is
@@mistakenotou7681 power leakage reduces when a chip is cooler, but sure there's variance in the power and clock values anyway
Air ducts work. That is if the case design allows for it to make sense.
Way back, probably 20 years now, I experimented with making an air duct for my CPU. I discovered a few interesting things. My first version consisted of a piece of air conditioning hose that was just a hair larger than the fan diameter. I thought that would be about the perfect size and wouldn't restrict the airflow. Well I was wrong. I based that conclusion on the fan speed. Thing is that just putting that duct on the heatsink made the fan spin faster, and it was set at full speed from the get go. What happened was that the funnel reduced the air pressure immediately in front of the fan. This reduces the drag on the fan and it will spin slightly faster at the same power input, and yet move less air. The restriction consisted of putting a barrier up that restricted air from rushing in for the sides.
I ended up with a airduct that was significantly larger in diameter than the fan in order to keep it feed with fresh air without strangling the performance. Then I put the side panel on and the fan speed went up again...
Well at least that was easily explained as the intake consisted of a lot of round holes stamped in the side panel. These are notoriously bad for airflow. Now I had the choice of just living with it, making an even larger funnel design or but out a large hole for the duct. Note that even though the fan was being starved the CPU temp had actually gone down. Even so I decided on cutting a hole and I put an old style wire fan grill over it.
It also used to be that a lot of small cases came with an air duct attached to the side panel. Problem with these were that a lot of the time you ended up using a motherboard with the processor placed just slightly offset from that airduct, which usually was made of hard plastic.
For a while a lot of cases, both small and large, came with a fan or fans attached to the side panel. For CPU cooling it was a good thing, but it could make a mess of the cabling and I'm sure a lot users resorted to harsh language when tangling with these. Fortunately this was before it got popular to make your computer case into a viewing cabinet so as long as you kept the cables from getting into the fans or something like that nobody really cared what it looked like inside.
I just picked up one of these old school side panel fan cases and I love it. 1 and a 1/2 120mm fans aimed right at the gpu and the 1/2 that goes over top of the gpu goes around the tower cooler and onto the motherboard components that the tower fan is neglecting. I just had to get a shorter tower cooler by 20mm to fit the side panel back on with the fans on the inside lol. The poor PSU is breathing CPU exhaust but oh well it only runs around 200-300 watts in games.
Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. My previous build was in the Node 202. I fixed my thermal issues by installing an AIO and routing the rad on the GPU side on top of my miniGPU, then installed a slim noctua 120mm fan as an exhaust on the CPU side shroud. Worked really well. But this would've been a much easier and cheaper solution.
My previous build featured both a SpinQ VT cooler, and a Storm Scout chassis; it was really nice because the top end of the cooler (which was half of its intake; other half was the base of the cooler) was nearly right up next to where an intake fan would be installed on the side panel, so what ended up happening was that a decent enough chunk of its intake air was.....fresh air.
I loved that cooler, and all the work that went into that build's airflow pattern; cooling an FX-6100 to sub-ambient on an aircooler :D
Reminded me of my 1st ever case..early 2000. Antec NSK 4400 with a 'telescopic' funnel. Just goes to show that old 'revisited' tech always comes back at ya. ^^
This could work well on HTPC's or office-desktops. Well implemented and nice work from Noctua.
I feel uncomfortable how Your monitor is judging content of my second monitor.
Bruh
I chose my Cooler Master NR200 for a similar reason in that it allows you to have a fan right by the side of the case channeling outside air right onto the Noctua NH-L12S heatsink I use. Really helps keep temps down.
My first modern gaming PC was one of those slim ~2008 Acers and I replaced the CPU cooler on it. Since the new one had lights, I made a similar extension by hacksawing off a section of plastic mayo jar and hot gluing it to the fan.
Good find today sir. I am impressed with your results.
I wonder if other CPU heat sinks will follow suit.
Wow..never even thought of that before, good to know...thanks!
I am not a computer expert and have not been following the PC industry as some of the other commenters below so this is new to me lol. Thanks for sharing.
I used to make them out of cardboard or pringles cans that I would spray paint flat black back in the early days !! Still running my 3950x, love this low power 16 core beast !!
08:52 I have a quick question in this shot: how much clearance is there between the CPU fan header and the "top" side panel when it's closed? Will it be enough for a 40*10mm fan?
I have this ASUS B550i mobo and a Sentry 2.0 clone case, and some Noctua A4*10mm fans to exhaust the downdraft cooler's heat. Not sure if they will fit. Not be able to start the build in a few weeks.
People spend a lot more than $17 cad for a lot less than 5c difference
Exactly! I find it a bit weird how many reviewers are asking if it's worth your money when most people end up spending tens of dollars for miniscule decreases in temp performance by buying a new cooler. 5 degrees for under 20 dollars seems to be quite amazing tbh
So true. Ofcourse the price is not worth it for something you can DIY. And yet people will pay hundreds for some very fancy looking gadget that does less.
The thing is it is easy to DIY but if you don't want to ti's is a no-brainer.
While true the pennies worth of materials included can make $17 bucks pretty hard to swallow. Most folks could fashion something out of junk they have around their house, or hit up the dollar store and achieve the same result for far less. At least noctua might inspire some folks to give it a whirl on their own, if anything.
We used to do this 20 years ago. With PVC piping and some foam on each end to seal it. Back when there were grills on the side panel, and you only used the stock HSF that came with the CPU
It is a cool product. 10 years ago cases had air funnels on side panels. I think it is great if cooler manufacturers provide such an option.
Dell and HP professional workstations have been using cpu airflow tunneling for decades. This way the heat from other components doesn't affect cpu so much. This is a good option
Directed or ducted air flow makes sense. Years ago some PC case manufactures included external fan to CPU fan ducts. Critics deemed it unsightly and felt it didn't justify a slight drop in temperature. I never ran across any any substantial research to justify throwing the concept under the bus. Having been reminded, I will make a few 'ducts' for my pc to experiment.
It's a passive improvement. it's about time a kit like this was released for DIY
Tip for mounting for this config, just put on the 10mm, cut a little bit above them, then take off the 10mm and put the 4mm on the bottom. you'll have plenty of clearance to avoid the straws and it'll still be super solid.
I was thinking the same, flip the foam spacers, meaning if you make the straw 2 mm shorter, you’ll still have 8mm on ‘penetration’ on the spacer, versus 2mm on the 4mm. If you get me!!
@@stevengrace6712
separating hot and cool air by a barrier with such shrouds also works great around a GPU. I got a 10K drop by a wide shroud around my GPU, fixed power and fixed fan speed. Often more effective than additional fans. The air from the exhaust fan (high pressure) takes the shortest path to the intake (low pressure), which is often just 1cm in typically GPU coolers. Sure, air flow momentum does reduce this effect, but still, a centimeters of shroud have a huge influence on temperature. Same reason ducting is so effective.
Great review Mike! It was only a matter of time before these came back for the smaller cases. I mean, there's a reason they used them in the past. If only the industry didn't switch side panels, I think companies would still be using them. Except for HP, they would have removed it ages ago in favour of more money, than better prepared hardware =P
On my node 202 i've had L9a-AM4, stock 5600X, and Shuriken 2 and tested them all (Shuriken 2 current winner). I have a Shuriken 3 on order and now I can get the NA-FD1 for comparison! Can't wait, thanks HC.
I definitely like the design of these more than the old accordion or telescoping ducts. I was thinking of putting a 92mm duct on my NH-L9i just last night.
Some may not even want to use it to lower the temps, but to keep the same temps by lowering the fan speed and therefore have a quieter system.
Seems like a mini dryer hose type deal I had back in the 90's. Basically a flex hose like a clothes dryer only miniature that mounted to the cpu fan and plummed to the case side.
Thank you for this! I'm trying to get temps under control on my PC, and just wanted to verify this was even a good idea (my shroud will be 3D printed).
This is exactly what i'm looking for for my Velka 3 build upcoming for the 12400.
this so reminds me of fan ducts you used to be able to get in the early 2000s or the ducted fan risers of the same era
I put a thicker fan on by drilling the top holes slightly bigger in the fan case. Dropped the thumb screws in and with a pair of snout nose pliers I could tighten them up. Just helped with air flow in the node 202
This video gave me the idea to 3D print a duct going from the graphics card fans running to the front of the case. Since my case has a PSU basement, it can just set right on top of it. It will be interesting to see if that has any effect on temperature
I actually 3D printed a custom vent for my cougar case and cpu cooler. The vent connects the cpu fan to the back of the case. The Fan is set to suck cool outside air. Did stress testing at 100% for 30min and my results were a 6C cpu drop with the vent. Not only that, but temps seemed WAY more stable and increased at a slower rate. Highly recommend those with a 3D printer and a sff pc to do the same.
There were cases in early 2000s which came with tube attached to side of case to aid with stock coolers reduce temps
This gives me an idea for a 4.5" NACA duct I found in my junk boxes the other day... 😁
Meanwhile, the automotive world has been well aware of and regularly implementing this airflow management technique for ages.
This should include those custom screws for 25mm fans also....
(I have changed 14mm to 25mm fan for even better cooling vs. low noise level.)
It makes sense as it's the same principle that car manufacturers use to get cool air into the air box and engine.
Given my recent embrace of SFF systems I am very keen to seen this in other sizes (especially 120). TBH I am bad at cutting these out myself so will happily buy a cheap competitor if it does the same thing at a low price.
*I have a 3700x in the Node 202 on an Asus Strix X470-I Gaming with two of their Noctua NF-A4x20 PWM fans sucking air out of the case.*
It looks like the NA-FD1 is currently out of stock but I'm definitely gonna pick these up when they're back.
Would be interesting to see a way to route cold air to a cpu in a larger case that doesn’t already have venting a couple inches in front of it. As in a larger case where there is not typically venting on the side panel. If you could route to wherever you have intake fans. Would probably see a more significant temperature change. That would obviously be unsightly and larger cases stay cooler in general, but it would still be an interesting experiment.
I actually fabbed a cheap shroud for my fractal Node 202 using some hot glue, and an old broken cd case. I saw temps consistently drop under synthetic load a considerable amount (I think at the top 10C, on games about 6-7C.) on a heavily overclocked 3600.
This thing can be done diy with the same foam or 3d printed part and a bit of solidified hotglue
Okay now I am curious how this compares to sticking the thicker 92mm Noctua fan to this cooler in this case and that way reducing the distance to the side panel.
I'm asking since I have a similar case ("console" form factor upright) and use that cooler with the 25mm thick redux fan and it is working well.
Noctua came out with the regular "non- redux" chromax 92mm one like a month after I made that build, so I feel a bit salty about my fan choice actually :p /j
Barebones cases had plastic "accordion" funnels that had to be fixed to the side panel... and much more simple to install
I have a DIY mod laptop table with duct and 12mm corsair PC FAN on/off rocket switch for my Alienware M17x 2013 which I made it so the little stands fit right into a purposly made fit holes and the holes for the intakes which I have it connected to my room AC unit (not a portable one, a wall setup)
Most amazing 7 pieces of foam!!
Cool tweak gizmo. I wonder if you put a few between the fan and the cooler, if that would reduce the hot spot. You know, the shadow of the motor. 🤔😎
I've seen a review of this product before and I believe I remember it raising the temps of some other part of the PC as a trade off.
The end result (hot air) also needs to be pulled out directly from the heatsink, if not of course the hot air will be pulled by another heatsink inside the case.
I think another way you could snip the posts would be to put the pad that's 1mm thinner than you need on first, snip it flush then put on the proper size after. That would leave the plastic a little lower than the full height and give you some smoosh room, if you need it, so the side of the case doesn't hit the plastic.
what I did was use a large fan from my broken power supply. I think it's 120mm. and mount it on the inside (u can do outside) of the grate. those holes make it convenient, and then I added a controller pwm so I can manually adjust how much air or noise going into the side of the case, which is blowing right on the cpu fan. I got this idea from my custom built one from 20 years ago with clear side cover that had a case fan built right into the side. that mostly blew onto the video card but still. it effectively cools the cpu and everything else directly rather than the case fans which blow perpendicular.
I went to home depot and got some 3/8x1/2inch rubber foam weather stripping. $2.50 for 10 feet and it's adhesive.
i would really like something like this for 140mm fans to move them away from the top grill so that i can reduce the turbulence noise a little bit.
If you want to test if air funneling will have any benefit without initially buying these, you can wrap blue painters tape around the fan, being careful to get the height right.
If you used this, or something like it, to space your fans away from your radiator, so the blades aren't so close to the fins, would this let the fan move more air? Removing the effect you get when a window curtain is to close to window box fan & that is blowing or sucking side.
Great work. Just a fast question. I have the LG 27GP850 144HZ monitor pluged in an nvidia 1660 super. I cant turn on the G-SYNC. Is it cause i m still on windows 7 64bit? If not, what s the way to do it?
Does the foam compresses against the panel grills which lets in the fresh air? Also, any noticeable noise increase?
No noticeable noise increase. BUT this could technically reduce turbulence between the side panel and in situations where the fan blades are closer to the panel.
Damn, why did you not add the part where you install the side panel back.... I was waiting for that...
This is a great idea implemented by noctua, 6 degree reduction in temperature while allowing for increased frequency of additional 200Mhz in this particular case
I wonder if you 3d print an adapter from the 92mm to say 120mm and just tall enough to where it doesn't touch the side, could it suck in more fresh air (due to the small holes in the panel) whilst also preventing it from sucking in warm air.
You could have cut 12mm studs by combining the 7mm + 5mm spacers, and then after you were done cutting the correct length, put on the 4mm + 10mm spacers.
Does noise increased with this upgrade? Thank you .
They need to make 120mm versions of these, And let us use them on our radiators, but not as a duct to get fresh air in, but as a gap between the fan and the radiator, to get rid of the dead zone that's directly under the fan hub. I usually do this myself by using an old gutted out fan, and just using the frame as a spacer. But something like this would be a lot nicer, and would seal much better against the radiator.
As fan typically blows onto VRMs, reducing a temperature by 5 deg means cooler VRMs also.
I see a lot of comments suggesting other ways of doing this like, using cheaper materials, or this and that. The thing is, did the idea occur to you first before seeing this video? Or is your solution as efficient/elegant as this in terms of fit, finish and appearance? It's easy to take another's idea and suggest improvements to it, whether cheaper or more efficient or better-looking design. But to actually have the eureka moment and come up with the idea and design the working, good-looking product for it is another matter altogether. Give credit where credit is due. At least Noctua thought of a good-looking, efficient way of doing this.
And sure, the foam is probably cheap. But the research to ensure it worked before production, the tooling required to make the moulds, the manufacturing process to ensure correct tolerances, density of foam etc etc aren't cheap. If you're making it for your own system, you can use whatever cheap foam you want. But if you're a company and you're launching a product line for the masses, you better ensure your product's quality is consistent, even if consumers are going to say the materials used are cheap. I give Noctua kudos for this.
Maybe I'll be called a Noctua fanboy for this, but tell me, how many failed products have Noctua produced? How much time and research does Noctua put into a product before they actually launch it? Case in point, black versions of their cooler fans. Everyone thinks it's just simply changing the colour. But changing a colour dye isn't that simple cos different colour resin have slightly different properties and that might affect performance and fitting tolerances. Can anyone think of another cooler company that puts that much effort and pride into their products?
By the way, I love the brown and beige.
Jesus, dude, can you just leave a pamphlet for your weird religion on the porch next time? :)
This idea is nothing new, just nice little package.
Prebuilds back in the 90's did this to stock intel/AMD coolers but instead it was a plastic funnel... the use-case nowadays though is so minimal/niche that no one really bothered coming up with a "solution" like this.. if you want to spend $13 on this, go for it.
From the concept of it, the better air flow ur case has, the less this little thing can do to lower the temp. Basically, It could be a good solution for cases that cannot discharge heat actively.
Noctua brought back the bellbottoms! What's old is new again. I wonder how long it'll take for the foam to start breaking down.
this will work nice in my Dan case I'm sure!
might try it.
It was actually designed with Dan, NR200, etc. in mind.
looks just like the old school stuff. used to do this all the time ... cases had it built in or you could buy one
My old hp did this
Noctua's installation video says to cut the plastic tubes off at the top of the foam, remove the top lay of foam, and trim them back a little so that when you put the foam back on, the plastic tubes will be below the surface of the foam but still position it properly. That way, you don't risk cutting the foam.
One step too much for me but I appreciate the logic of that! - Mike
With that little cooler on top of a 3900x , I would say it's priceless !
👍👍👍 Would love you to check the new Silverstone KL07E. Would love to know if the asphalt sound deadening material actually works and how airflow is for air cooled and AIO builds. It's just an interesting product
Nice review but is there any side effects on other components that are no longer getting as much air as before?
Not that I could see - Mike
yup theyll only recieve positive air. and given all the mobo makers have decided passive cooling is a thing again its the wrong time to try this. also seeing ddr sticks with fans on like back in the 90's, its all poor design circling poor design and roping people in for profit.
this might be very interesting even for bigger cases specially if you have a ryzen wraith cooler - or anything similar - since that cooler is always catching the hot air from the gpu. granted this set wont directly fit that cooler, but any handyman can work their way around that
It seems like you should put the slimmer ones BELOW the thick ones, especially if you compress them to cut the straws, the straws will have a better grip on the thick one where the thin one might be prone to slipping off. Noctua's official images even all show that, the thinner ones mounted closest to the fan.
Yeah that's what I said. :)
why don't you have a 25mm fan on that L9?
at just 11mm taller than the stock fan... that will help on the airflow (cfm) side too.
idk, just a thought
5~6, wow, time to DIY one
me first PC case had a system like this to move the hot air directly to the outside of the case. a big plastic tube.
I never tested with / without, but its not a new concept ;-)
Exactly. Certainly not a new concept.
This review misses a little context... The product is for cases that lack the space to actually FIT a larger cooler... A format envelope where the L9 series is still one of the top performers. With the addition, this actually places it solidly in the lead.
What it isn't is some magic equalizer that makes it perform as well as a larger format cooler, but if you have the space to fit one, then that's still the go to solution.
As someone who's using an S4 mini(not even skyreach mini, which would let me use a larger cooler), this is an absolute godsend product. If you've got just 10mm more, that already opens up an extra class of cooler and another 20-30TDP. It doesn't sound like a big deal if you've got the headroom for larger coolers, but it's massive when space is at such a premium
Those ducting tubes used in air conditioners would work if this works. And they can bend directly to an in-source air -flow anywhere in the case
That was an interesting video to watch, and quite off-beat and I like it.
Thanks!!
I think it's an accessory that would be interesting in all cases just to add a bit of buffer between your fan and whatever it is stuck to. Wouldn't it be beneficial, if not for the cooling, for your fan being less stessed ?
or you can buy a fan thats designed to work well in that scenario. no point in you paying extra to patch up the manufacturers poor design.
Why not fit an thicker fan on that cooler aswell? :)
We had stock coolers whit funnel on core2duo era some 14years ago.
Now I sort of wonder about something like this for a video card.
i remember when CPU fan ducts were common place on pre built PCs
Honestly any laser cut shop can do this, I did the CAD for my 4090 + meshlicious and laser cut it a foam with adhesive from aliexpress.
will this be compatible to thermalright axp90 x53?
If you look at older pre-built PC's, I actually still have one from about 2003, They have a Direct Feed from the Vent on the side of the Case in the shape of a "Bellow or Ram Tube" that almost touches the Cooling Fan of the CPU.
So not such a new idea....
It looks like such a potentially successful product line for casual modders! Imagine 120mm versions for the L12S, with compatibility with other brands.
3d printing these out of tpu could easily be done. you could even make it more of a velocity stack design to get even more fresh air to it.
your pc reminds me of a turret from portal. I like it
When pc builders discover a ducted fan ^
Nothing was "discovered". We've actually covered ducted fan prebuilt systems before. ;)
in SFF cases 6C is amazing