OK I watched this vid and followed these instructions today, did cylinder 1, turned the crank 90 deg and went to do the next cylinder and one of the valves was already part compressed! Thought about how 4 stroke 4 cylinder engines work for a few minutes and realized it's supposed to be a 180 deg turn of the crank (it would be 90 degrees if you were turning the cam not the crank), you might need to mention that.
+the doge right. but number of teeth on crank and cam pulleys is different. that mean when you turn crank 90 degrees , you don't turn cam the same angle. just try in your bicycle ;)
+the doge The cam rotates at half the speed as the crank. 360° = one full cam rotation for all 4 strokes. This means 720° of crank rotation for full 4 stroke cycle on all 4 cylinders. Divided by 4 = 180° of crank rotation for each stroke.
He was giving credit to the 'genious'es for knowing that the crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cam because the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft axis is only about two inches in diameter. It's concealed at this point of component exposure. That relationship can be a bit confusing. In reply to your wiseass rhetorical question, if the belts are as tight as they should be, it's possible to much more conveniently and comfortably turn the engine by rotating the power steering pump pulley using a long, offset 19mm box-end wrench, especially if compression is relieved by removing or loosening the spark plugs. Now ya know, 'genious'. ; ]
Sorry to throw another comment in as a reply to yours, but it's as good a place as a couple of others are here as I revisit the video. ; ] I didn't want to be overly negative, but with an economy of words I often lack, I have to say that your thought is spot-on. This guy seems nice and genuine, and he's roughly 95% right in his instructions, but the 5% of misinformation represents a critical margin of error. Ha! I'm surprised this video wasn't reported, or was left up if it was flagged, despite presumed 'at your own risk' caveats. Worst of all, these guys must know by this point that they made a big blunder. They should have responsibly pulled this video, or edited it. Honestly, because of that, I'd never use their in-person services. Leaving this video active is a sign of their character and quality as 'professional' business owners. I'm tempted to suggest they rename their channel 'realfuckupsrealfast'.
The crank bolt should be turned 180 degrees counter clockwise for each cylinder and the cam gear up mark should be 12 o'clock for #1, 9 o'clock for #3, 6 o'clock for #4 and 3 o'clock for #2 valve adjustment
You reall should correct this demonstration of valve adjustment. As others have stated 1/4 turn on the crank pulley bolt is only 1/8 of a turn on the cam. Two full turns of the crank equals one full turn and one cycle of the camshaft. One half turn on the crank in the correct firing order and you would have been correct. This miss information is dangerous always be 100% or DIYers will mess up their engines.
Why is people putting so much thought into this ? the key point is to adjust ANY cylinder during the compression stroke at TDC with the cam lobes not touching the rockers right? after doing the #1 cylinder cause you have alignment marcks simply remove spark plugs from other 3 cylinders and place a long skinny screwdrive in hole to contact the top of the piston. then slowly turn crank till the screw driver comes up and stop before it starts to go down and fine tune till you get in the sweet spot where it doesnt go down or up. check your rockers if loose go ahead and adjust if tight you are on wrong stroke either repeat process till on compression stroke or do the opposing cylinder now as it is on compression stroke at TDC when #1 is on tdc compression stroke #4 is not . when #3 is on compression stroke TDC #2 is at tdc but not compression stroke this whole 90 degree 180 degree of crank /cam turns only confuses novice mechanics .. teach um what all the stuff actually means and keep it simple (kiss) keep it simple stupid method
After setting #1 (TDC on its compression stroke), the crank would turn 180 deg (not 90 deg) for setting the next one, cyl #3. Then, 180 deg turn of crank for setting #4, then 180 deg turn for setting #2. (F.O. 1-3-4-2). I hope you didn't screw up that Honda engine too bad the way you did it.
cant you just look at the high points of the lobes and then use the complete opposite side( rounded end of the lobe) for each arm and adjust from there instead of all this TDC stuff. also with the plugs out, cant you turn the power steering(easy access) instead of the pulley?
Yes. However i recommend adjusting the cam every time to face the lobe oppisite of the rocker your adjusting. In my case the cam turns to tdc, adjust the exhaust since its oppisite exhast rockers, then rotate the cam 90° approx to adjust intake on the same cylinders base intake lobe, while setting the next cylinders exhaust rockers on its base lobe. This gave me the best idle and running i have ever seen
he turned it too much... makes lots of diference on older cars didnt know that there was a mark in the inside of the camgear.. but anyway i have marked the camgear so... instead of taking the wheel of i take the timming belt out to see when its on TDC on cyl 2 and 4
this guy messed up.. You dont turn the ratchet a 45 degree turn, you turn the ratchet until the cam gears are about 45 degrees. Piston 1= up arrows on 12 oclock. Piston 3= up arrows 9oclock Piston 4=up arrows 6 oclock piston 2 up arrows 3 oclock
This video is SOOOO WRONG. First of all is .008 on the intake and .010 on the exhaust. The main thiing that is wrong is your suppose to rotate the Crankshaft 180 degrees which is a half a turn not a "1/4 of turn" as you mention here. The only thing that is a 1/4 turn is the the camshaft. When you turn the crankshaft 180 degree or a half a turn it rotates the camshaft 90 degrees or a quarter of a turn.
I would not do it that way. The best way and correct way is to verify lobe position per per cylnder. The process depends solely on lobe position and nothing else, by not verifying the lobe position you're asking for failure.
@garrett6699 actually you don't, all you need to do is be sure the cam lobe is not in contact with rocker, but for the unexperienced i agree it would be best for them to do it the proper way.
hello I have CRV 2009 ex 4wd 209000 km. there is no check engine light. the engine make some noise and vibration at idle and hard accelration power . the cylindre compresion is correct I have change spark plugs. there is no leake and coil , injector are correct. After scan honda say ther is misfire in cylindre 4 at idle. after check they propose first a valve ajustment and if the problem stay there propose chain kit change. what you think . if i change chain kit does the engine will be correct or it is better change engine. thank you
The cam gear will turn 90 degrees counter clockwise but the crank bolt has to turn 180 degrees counter clockwise for the cam gear to 90 degrees counter clockwise
if the gauge of the gap is too small or too big how does it work? like does have to be touching thr gauge checker , like if you can't pull out the gauge meter thing?
do you have any videos on vale or upper engine carbon cleaning I h ave a 207 dodge nitro with 3.7 needs the carbon removed from valves keeps pooping rockers is there effective way to do it without teardown?
Didn't catch this guy telling to do this cold ? reason you do it cold is warm engine things expand which is why there is a clearance to compensate for expansion .. not sure but if you did this on a hot engine you might end up with some valves through pistons as this is an interference engine and if you get shit wrong you just made a paperweight.
I'm having the same problem with my #3 intake valve. I'm baffled why I can't adjust my #3 intake valve. I can screw the adjustment up and down but it does not provide any clearance. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. (I've followed the valve adjustment to the T, so I know what I'm doing, fairly, because of this problem) Help.
It should be noted here that the valves need to be done while its in the compression stroke. To verify this you can remove your distributer cap and make sure the rotor is in the correct position. My valve adjustment took 3 trys to get it right because I disregarded removing the distributer cap.
@RichardEllisxyz the Snap on tool you mention is the tits I don't do much on SOHC motors any more and you can get away with using a wrench/screwdriver but for the B- series it is a must I even made one way back before I could afford the snap on tool is a MUST HAVE
you're supposed to use the feeler gauge, like he did...torque wrench like he didn't, lol...he made it look easy though, and to be honest, I know what he means tight, but not crazy tight...
(6:28) I'm not a pro by any means and I may have missed something, but I think you need to turn the crankshaft 180 degrees (camshaft pulley turns 90) to get the next cylinder at TDC. I'm an amature, but that's what the honda technician's manual says.
didi he ever i like to use the oil dipstick in each cylender n i barley bump my key n it starts on point n iv dont many other cars the same way been good so far
information under hood in my civic D15B7 is Valve Lash IN : 0.20mm +- 0.02 mm ( from 0.0070866in to 0.0086614in ) EX : 0.25mm +- 0.02 mm ( from 0.0090551in to 0.010630in )
valve adjustments are SO MUCHER EASIER when you use the PEDAL-IT from Ciccarone Racing Products. It's one of the best tools you don't have. You can buy it on their website.
Thank you, I was taking auto class and my team mates only focused on the exhaust valves in the front and said that one is exhaust and the other is for intake. And they ignore the real intake valves in the back. Me not being an expert ask what the other two valves were for.(the two intake valves in the back). I guessed semi right, saying two must be for exhaust and two is for intake.
I did this once and I needed shims, this looks much simpler than an overhead cam. It's sort of amazing valves like this stay in adjustment but what do I know.
When you move the feeler gauge back and forth you are feeling for some drag but not forcing it to were it hardly moves or is extremely loose. For these 4 cylinder Civics the tolerance on the exhaust valves is .007 to .009. Normally if a vehicle has a range like that I will adjust them to .008 so I have a .001 wiggle room. After Im done with the adjustment Ill run a .007 feeler in there and is should go in with no drag then a .009 feeler and you should have some difficulty inserting it in the gap.
Great video. Forget taking the tire off, and turning the crank manually. Use the Pedal-It automatic valve adjuster. You simply attach it to the starter and step on a pedal. Every time you step on it, it will turn the motor to your next set of valves, in the proper firing order. You can buy it from Ciccarone Racing Products.
omg he used a air rachet on a ffucking valve cover, the block is aluminum and those bolts are VERY common to snap and break off inside, fucking genius guy right here
thank u your video was helpful, really liked the closeups. I loosened all the spark plugs to make turning crank much easier. I was able to turn power steering pulley nut w/ 18mm wrench and avoid removing tire. The closeup of TDC marks on cam sprocket was very clear. I opened distributor cap to verify which cylinder. Your warning not to set clearance too tight was very valuable.
Thanks this is really helpful. I'm guessing my '95 accord with a F22B1 engine is done the same way pretty much. I'll double check the firing order and the gap specs first though.
thank you for the time into these videos, you have made me save $$$. I'm a bit scared to turn on the engine as I didn't noticed that you were turning the Power Steering Pulley counter-clockwise and I just saw your video again to make sure I don't miss anything and I'm afraid to have bent valves. PLEASE HELLPPPPP!Read moreShow less Reply ·
On my CRV the belt and crank is on the passenger side, so I turn it clockwise. At this point I'm not sure who to believe - but I know I'll be double checking my valve job I did last weekend. I used the Eric The Car Guy video as my reference.
2 Things, in a 4 cylinder engine you have to rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees to get the next cylinder on compression, second and more important thing never turn an engine to the left, always clockwise only!!!
Gt35rv12 is correct. The procedure that works is ensured by setting the cam on its most base lobe. Essentially facing 180° from the rocker contact point on EVERY rocker. Since the lobes are staggered you will have to adjust your exhaust and rotate the camshaft 90° approx to adjust the intake.
OK I watched this vid and followed these instructions today, did cylinder 1, turned the crank 90 deg and went to do the next cylinder and one of the valves was already part compressed! Thought about how 4 stroke 4 cylinder engines work for a few minutes and realized it's supposed to be a 180 deg turn of the crank (it would be 90 degrees if you were turning the cam not the crank), you might need to mention that.
Not because it is a 4cyl. The cam is driven at half the crankshaft speed so you need to turn the crank 180° to turn the cam 90°
Honda should use an allen style head on the adjuster screw.
The slot style is truly primitive.
I wonder how many people messed up their cars following this video? The cam needs to turn a quarter turn every time not the crank. Thanks.
+the doge right. but number of teeth on crank and cam pulleys is different. that mean when you turn crank 90 degrees , you don't turn cam the same angle. just try in your bicycle ;)
+the doge
The cam rotates at half the speed as the crank. 360° = one full cam rotation for all 4 strokes.
This means 720° of crank rotation for full 4 stroke cycle on all 4 cylinders. Divided by 4 = 180° of crank rotation for each stroke.
He was giving credit to the 'genious'es for knowing that the crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cam because the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft axis is only about two inches in diameter. It's concealed at this point of component exposure. That relationship can be a bit confusing.
In reply to your wiseass rhetorical question, if the belts are as tight
as they should be, it's possible to much more conveniently and
comfortably turn the engine by rotating the power steering pump pulley using a long, offset 19mm box-end wrench, especially if compression is relieved by removing or loosening the spark plugs. Now ya know,
'genious'. ; ]
Sorry to throw another comment in as a reply to yours, but it's as good a place as a couple of others are here as I revisit the video. ; ] I didn't want to be overly negative, but with an economy of words I often lack, I have to say that your thought is spot-on. This guy seems nice and genuine, and he's roughly 95% right in his instructions, but the 5% of misinformation represents a critical margin of error. Ha! I'm surprised this video wasn't reported, or was left up if it was flagged, despite presumed 'at your own risk' caveats. Worst of all, these guys must know by this point that they made a big blunder. They should have responsibly pulled this video, or edited it. Honestly, because of that, I'd never use their in-person services. Leaving this video active is a sign of their character and quality as 'professional' business owners. I'm tempted to suggest they rename their channel 'realfuckupsrealfast'.
The crank bolt should be turned 180 degrees counter clockwise for each cylinder and the cam gear up mark should be 12 o'clock for #1, 9 o'clock for #3, 6 o'clock for #4 and 3 o'clock for #2 valve adjustment
Should also be noted that you do this with the engine cooled overnight
You reall should correct this demonstration of valve adjustment. As others have stated 1/4 turn on the crank pulley bolt is only 1/8 of a turn on the cam. Two full turns of the crank equals one full turn and one cycle of the camshaft. One half turn on the crank in the correct firing order and you would have been correct. This miss information is dangerous always be 100% or DIYers will mess up their engines.
Why is people putting so much thought into this ? the key point is to adjust ANY cylinder during the compression stroke at TDC with the cam lobes not touching the rockers right? after doing the #1 cylinder cause you have alignment marcks simply remove spark plugs from other 3 cylinders and place a long skinny screwdrive in hole to contact the top of the piston.
then slowly turn crank till the screw driver comes up and stop before it starts to go down and fine tune till you get in the sweet spot where it doesnt go down or up.
check your rockers if loose go ahead and adjust if tight you are on wrong stroke either repeat process till on compression stroke or do the opposing cylinder now as it is on compression stroke at TDC
when #1 is on tdc compression stroke #4 is not . when #3 is on compression stroke TDC #2 is at tdc but not compression stroke
this whole 90 degree 180 degree of crank /cam turns only confuses novice mechanics .. teach um what all the stuff actually means and keep it simple (kiss) keep it simple stupid method
You shouldn't have to find exact TDC as you're describing unless I'm missing something. It will be off the cam for most of the stroke.
When you say TDC, does it have to be in a specific stroke?
After setting #1 (TDC on its compression stroke), the crank would turn 180 deg (not 90 deg) for setting the next one, cyl #3. Then, 180 deg turn of crank for setting #4, then 180 deg turn for setting #2. (F.O. 1-3-4-2). I hope you didn't screw up that Honda engine too bad the way you did it.
great video everything is legit exeeept for the degrees and ratios. cam turns Half the speed of crank so 180' crank= 90' cam rotation VERY IMPORTANT.
cant you just look at the high points of the lobes and then use the complete opposite side( rounded end of the lobe) for each arm and adjust from there instead of all this TDC stuff. also with the plugs out, cant you turn the power steering(easy access) instead of the pulley?
Yes. However i recommend adjusting the cam every time to face the lobe oppisite of the rocker your adjusting. In my case the cam turns to tdc, adjust the exhaust since its oppisite exhast rockers, then rotate the cam 90° approx to adjust intake on the same cylinders base intake lobe, while setting the next cylinders exhaust rockers on its base lobe.
This gave me the best idle and running i have ever seen
he turned it too much... makes lots of diference on older cars
didnt know that there was a mark in the inside of the camgear.. but anyway i have marked the camgear so... instead of taking the wheel of i take the timming belt out to see when its on TDC on cyl 2 and 4
this guy messed up.. You dont turn the ratchet a 45 degree turn, you turn the ratchet until the cam gears are about 45 degrees. Piston 1= up arrows on 12 oclock. Piston 3= up arrows 9oclock Piston 4=up arrows 6 oclock piston 2 up arrows 3 oclock
Very bad information... And this has been up for 11yrs... SMH
This video is SOOOO WRONG.
First of all is .008 on the intake and .010 on the exhaust.
The main thiing that is wrong is your suppose to rotate the Crankshaft 180 degrees which is a half a turn not a "1/4 of turn" as you mention here. The only thing that is a 1/4 turn is the the camshaft. When you turn the crankshaft 180 degree or a half a turn it rotates the camshaft 90 degrees or a quarter of a turn.
I would not do it that way. The best way and correct way is to verify lobe position per per cylnder. The process depends solely on lobe position and nothing else, by not verifying the lobe position you're asking for failure.
@garrett6699 actually you don't, all you need to do is be sure the cam lobe is not in contact with rocker, but for the unexperienced i agree it would be best for them to do it the proper way.
hello I have CRV 2009 ex 4wd 209000 km. there is no check engine light. the engine make some noise and vibration at idle and hard accelration power . the cylindre compresion is correct I have change spark plugs. there is no leake and coil , injector are correct. After scan honda say ther is misfire in cylindre 4 at idle. after check they propose first a valve ajustment and if the problem stay there propose chain kit change. what you think . if i change chain kit does the engine will be correct or it is better change engine. thank you
The cam gear will turn 90 degrees counter clockwise but the crank bolt has to turn 180 degrees counter clockwise for the cam gear to 90 degrees counter clockwise
@youreadork buy a haynes manual it's the bible for each car, and harbor freight for cheap tools, yeah theyre chinese but they are cheap.
i think 1stardragon's right..... u gotta turn 180 degrees on the CRANK to move 90 degrees on the CAM...
boy this video goofed it.
this job is expensive for Honda Fit 2007?
so what was he turning 90 degrees??? and how would i know whe to i just my valves???any please????would be nice
Dear Sir, why the colors change to brown inside engine? Is it because not changing oil frequently?
So easy to adjust compared to the B and H series cam lobes..
Thanks for this! Finally makes since to me vs other videos
Thats why you take it to a Certified Technician, Not a Shade Tree Mechanic
Great video well explained 😊👍
Would this work for a 98 civic lx?
ECU must be reseted after this
Good video. Helps a lot of people complete this job. Keep up the good work.
where's Duane? he's better with instruction
if the gauge of the gap is too small or too big how does it work? like does have to be touching thr gauge checker , like if you can't pull out the gauge meter thing?
do you have any videos on vale or upper engine carbon cleaning I h ave a 207 dodge nitro with 3.7 needs the carbon removed from valves keeps pooping rockers is there effective way to do it without teardown?
Awesome video!! Time to tackle my '98 Prelude! Thanks for posting.
I can't adjust my 3rd valve because the screw head is worn out and I can't loosen the lock nut. Does anyone know the measurements of this screw?
Didn't catch this guy telling to do this cold ? reason you do it cold is warm engine things expand which is why there is a clearance to compensate for expansion .. not sure but if you did this on a hot engine you might end up with some valves through pistons as this is an interference engine and if you get shit wrong you just made a paperweight.
I'm having the same problem with my #3 intake valve. I'm baffled why I can't adjust my #3 intake valve. I can
screw the adjustment up and down but it does not provide any clearance. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
(I've followed the valve adjustment to the T, so I know what I'm doing, fairly, because of this problem) Help.
how do you know when it "feels good" ? lol im serous though. im going to do the same thing on my 01' TL >.<
so the screw tightens down the gap that the feeler gauge is in? then the wrench locks it in place?
It should be noted here that the valves need to be done while its in the compression stroke. To verify this you can remove your distributer cap and make sure the rotor is in the correct position. My valve adjustment took 3 trys to get it right because I disregarded removing the distributer cap.
@RichardEllisxyz the Snap on tool you mention is the tits I don't do much on SOHC motors any more and you can get away with using a wrench/screwdriver but for the B- series it is a must I even made one way back before I could afford the snap on tool is a MUST HAVE
you're supposed to use the feeler gauge, like he did...torque wrench like he didn't, lol...he made it look easy though, and to be honest, I know what he means tight, but not crazy tight...
Can this valves adjustments line ups can be use in a 2.0l Honda crv 2000?
(6:28) I'm not a pro by any means and I may have missed something, but I think you need to turn the crankshaft 180 degrees (camshaft pulley turns 90) to get the next cylinder at TDC. I'm an amature, but that's what the honda technician's manual says.
i give you props for the camera
didi he ever i like to use the oil dipstick in each cylender n i barley bump my key n it starts on point n iv dont many other cars the same way been good so far
information under hood in my civic D15B7 is
Valve Lash IN : 0.20mm +- 0.02 mm ( from 0.0070866in to 0.0086614in )
EX : 0.25mm +- 0.02 mm ( from 0.0090551in to 0.010630in )
just remember 90 degress on the CAM GEAR. the cranks kind of confusing because u cant really see it just use the lines the on cam gear to guide you...
how do I adjust the alternator to tighten the belt.??99 Honda accord vteck 3.0 v6
Pro..... what you say about not to tight the 10mm bolt so the valve don't burn?
valve adjustments are SO MUCHER EASIER when you use the PEDAL-IT from Ciccarone Racing Products. It's one of the best tools you don't have. You can buy it on their website.
I want to thank the persons who took their time off and demonstrate this knowledge for the ones who have little information about this. Thank you.
for some reason I always assume valve adjustments were not a DIY job. bought some feeler gauges and I will be adjusting my D15B2 tomorrow, 267K miles
Super informative, I'm going to go it on my 02 Accord now. Thanks!
Thank you, I was taking auto class and my team mates only focused on the exhaust valves in the front and said that one is exhaust and the other is for intake. And they ignore the real intake valves in the back.
Me not being an expert ask what the other two valves were for.(the two intake valves in the back). I guessed semi right, saying two must be for exhaust and two is for intake.
I did this once and I needed shims, this looks much simpler than an overhead cam. It's sort of amazing valves like this stay in adjustment but what do I know.
Holy varnish, batman!
what happens if the clearance is too small like .002 will it destroy the valves
19mm socket.
what are you feeling when youre moving the feeler gauge back and forth? Should it have some tension on it??
When you move the feeler gauge back and forth you are feeling for some drag but not forcing it to were it hardly moves or is extremely loose. For these 4 cylinder Civics the tolerance on the exhaust valves is .007 to .009. Normally if a vehicle has a range like that I will adjust them to .008 so I have a .001 wiggle room. After Im done with the adjustment Ill run a .007 feeler in there and is should go in with no drag then a .009 feeler and you should have some difficulty inserting it in the gap.
It should have a bit of drag. Not enough to lock it down but your feeler guage shouldnt fall out if you let go.
Great video. Forget taking the tire off, and turning the crank manually. Use the Pedal-It automatic valve adjuster. You simply attach it to the starter and step on a pedal. Every time you step on it, it will turn the motor to your next set of valves, in the proper firing order. You can buy it from Ciccarone Racing Products.
Hey thanx.....This was a very well explained video. Helped clear up a bit of confusion I had. Keep up the good work!
lazy man garage
omg he used a air rachet on a ffucking valve cover, the block is aluminum and those bolts are VERY common to snap and break off inside, fucking genius guy right here
thank u your video was helpful, really liked the closeups. I loosened all the spark plugs to make turning crank much easier. I was able to turn power steering pulley nut w/ 18mm wrench and avoid removing tire. The closeup of TDC marks on cam sprocket was very clear. I opened distributor cap to verify which cylinder. Your warning not to set clearance too tight was very valuable.
Good VID ? How was this car running before the adjustment,then how did it run after the fix??
Thanks this is really helpful. I'm guessing my '95 accord with a F22B1 engine is done the same way pretty much. I'll double check the firing order and the gap specs first though.
Someone hasn't been keeping up on oil changes..
Use Pedal-It for much easier, faster valve adjustments, on any make of car.
i have a 2009 honda fit with a 1.5L motor. when should i have this done?
each DTC position is 180 deg (1/2 turn) - NOT 90 deg (1/4 turn)
@redoxon305 Yes, the compression stroke, so all the valves are closed.
great video, i'll do this on my 96 Civic as soon as i get a minute ... thanks !
watch eric the car guy, he has a valve adjustment vid on a honda
Do you have to remove the spark plugs before u set the valves?
Good stuff bro. I need to do this forsure. Thanks for showing us with good quality and sound with great instructions!
Is there a video this detailed but for B16/B18 with DOHC ?
I have a 04 rsx type s... Anyone know how much this would run me
does this restore some lost hp by getting it retuned to spec?
That motor looks sludge-tastic. Poor guy. Probably got 10k OCI.
Kinda unsafe without a jack stand
¢
thank you for the time into these videos, you have made me save $$$. I'm a bit scared to turn on the engine as I didn't noticed that you were turning the Power Steering Pulley counter-clockwise and I just saw your video again to make sure I don't miss anything and I'm afraid to have bent valves. PLEASE HELLPPPPP!Read moreShow less
Reply
·
On my CRV the belt and crank is on the passenger side, so I turn it clockwise.
At this point I'm not sure who to believe - but I know I'll be double checking my valve job I did last weekend. I used the Eric The Car Guy video as my reference.
Steve Schwinghammer yes you do counter clockwise only if your pulley on the other side like the honda in the video , so in your car always clockwise
Those power tools remind me of the dentist =/
i own a 94 civic dx and this video was very good info
im a honda fun! and i always fix my car, love your video man!!!
2 Things, in a 4 cylinder engine you have to rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees to get the next cylinder on compression, second and more important thing never turn an engine to the left, always clockwise only!!!
Are you serious? This year of Civic tells you to rotate counter clock-wise per Honda Service Manual.
Honda baby. Honda.
NICE JOB, WELL DETAILED VIDEO. THANKS
can valve seals cause low compression?
that look so easy only you need all the tools
you don't adjust exhaust at same time with the intake exhaust cam is on it's lobe big fail
You do if its on its compression stoke, as both exhaust and intake valves will be closed.
And the fail award goes to you.
As long as the piston is at TDC you can adjust both sets of valves at the same time, as both sets of vavles must be closed when the combustion occurs.
Gt35rv12 is correct. The procedure that works is ensured by setting the cam on its most base lobe. Essentially facing 180° from the rocker contact point on EVERY rocker. Since the lobes are staggered you will have to adjust your exhaust and rotate the camshaft 90° approx to adjust the intake.
Every helpful! Thanks!
good work! Thanks
goood write uP!
thank you soo much.
he did a better job than Ericthecarguy. Ericthecarguy made it complicated
Yea he really does n some things he forgets to explain
eric at least knows what he's doing.
EXELENT! TNKS A LOT FOR SHARE!
im doing mine tomorrow
Great video! Thank you.