Been stringing for 40+ years and attended many stringing seminars/workshops. Years ago when Lucien Nogues, now Director at Babolat, was merely their ATP stringer, he was asked about how long it took to string a racket. He would answer about 30 minutes if you're good, and 40-45 if you're really good. We all know the difference between static and continuous pull machines. The time you allow before clamping is a huge difference in tension loss. On continuous pull machines, the string continues to stretch for several seconds once tension is reached. Waiting to clamp means much of the stretch is out of that string before clamping and moving on to the next. Pluck the string and listen to the sound go down in only a couple of seconds. If a string job is done in 20 minutes, I can understands big tension loss. If it is completed in 45 minutes with time allowed between pulling and clamping, tension loss is dramatically reduced. I'm old now so my strings don't break like they used to. Even the lowly Stringmeter measures only 5 pounds lost over a month of playing. My first question to stringers is how long it takes them to lace one up. In my mind, their answer tells me how accurate the job will be. My two cents.
great videos. a question though - if this is the case, why do people not string their rackets with excess tension in order to compensate for this loss?
A different way to think about this... Let's say I choose to string a racket at 55lbs. I choose that tension because over time, I've found good success with it. Whether it actually is 55lbs is irrelevant if you ask me. Sure, let's say I lose 10%. That means I need to string at 61lbs to compensate, and therefore actually get 55... Well, now I'm a few lbs over for the characteristics I originally wanted.
Thanks for a great video. So if I get it right, someone like who does not break and plays 1/2 a week should go for a natural gut to limit tension loss. Correct? Also, I am owning and like switching rackets from time to time. So some might end up sitting home for a several weeks without a play. Do I understand that natural guts would also allow me to do that without having to restring every time I wish to play with a particular racket? Many thanks
I have some old racquets that have never been restrung, but they still sing (imo) when tapping on them. Anyone have an idea of what kind of string they may be...? They still seem to hit pretty well too.
I understand the tension loss. But let's say my target tension is 45lbs. So I string it at 60lbs. I expect it will lose tenssion 25% after one play, but after that it stabllized for a while. Does this strategy work? Does this strategy work? Or what is the difference if I string it 45lbs, and I just play one time. And cut it.
Exactly... I don't think anyone is answering your question properly. Let's say my ideal range of tension is 45 ~ 50. No point in stringing it at 50, when I know the tension will drop below 45 even before I take it to the tennis court. I might as well string it at 60 and hope that as the tension drops - it will eventually be in my comfort zone
No. To explain to you, first you have to understand string mechanics in mechanical engineering. The string under constant tension will constantly elongate hence lose tension until it becomes plastic-ish, no longer stretch further. It doesn't matter how initially was done. The loss tension he was talking about is out of the gate relatively after the string job.
I bought a Prince Textreme Warrior 100 with klip legend natural gut 17 string. what tension do you recommend for my wife who is a beginner, has somewhat good aiming but lacks a bit of power.
I am a 4.0 player. I used the Luxilon 4G 125 15L. After about 15 hours of solid play, I feel the tension dropped precipitously. After impact with groundstrokes, string bed gets uneven. I have to manually keep pulling strings back together after each point like they used to do it in olden days (which is a pain in the neck)...Obviously, its been only 10 days since I've been using them and it won't break but my CONTROL is gone. What do you suggest? If I go with natural gut (ur link) which I've never tried before, do you think it'll be value for money. ($45)...Also, do you suggest thinner strings (17 or 18)?
4G is known for having good tension maintenance for a poly so if you feel like the tension is not lasting long enough, it may be worth it to try natural gut just for the experiment. Since it's expensive I usually only do 16G but if you're not a string breaker you can do 17. I'm a proponent of using as thin of a string as you can without breaking your stringing budget. Thin strings offer several advantages with the only downside being durability in my view.
Are there any cons to playing with "dead" strings? I play with dead Luxilon ALU Power and I just notice a bit less spin due to the strings not snapping back as much but otherwise is fine and actually has more power. I don't have any arm problems either. So if I can control it, is it worth restringing?
If you don't feel like it's harming your game, I'd say stick with it. Many people will notice less control though as a result of the strings not having the snap back and responsiveness of a recently strung racket.
why does my 11 year old technfiber racket (never changed string) hits so hard .. i guess you can say trampoline but i can get more power out of it than a freshly new strung up racket at 55lb... ?
I'd focus on the main string for hybrids. The main string sets the tempo for how the racket will play. If you are not using a poly as the main, I'd say you can go until it breaks most of the time. If you use poly as the main, I'd play until the string bed felt "dead"
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Been stringing for 40+ years and attended many stringing seminars/workshops. Years ago when Lucien Nogues, now Director at Babolat, was merely their ATP stringer, he was asked about how long it took to string a racket. He would answer about 30 minutes if you're good, and 40-45 if you're really good. We all know the difference between static and continuous pull machines. The time you allow before clamping is a huge difference in tension loss. On continuous pull machines, the string continues to stretch for several seconds once tension is reached. Waiting to clamp means much of the stretch is out of that string before clamping and moving on to the next. Pluck the string and listen to the sound go down in only a couple of seconds.
If a string job is done in 20 minutes, I can understands big tension loss. If it is completed in 45 minutes with time allowed between pulling and clamping, tension loss is dramatically reduced. I'm old now so my strings don't break like they used to. Even the lowly Stringmeter measures only 5 pounds lost over a month of playing. My first question to stringers is how long it takes them to lace one up. In my mind, their answer tells me how accurate the job will be. My two cents.
great videos. a question though - if this is the case, why do people not string their rackets with excess tension in order to compensate for this loss?
That is a very good point!
Less power
A different way to think about this... Let's say I choose to string a racket at 55lbs. I choose that tension because over time, I've found good success with it. Whether it actually is 55lbs is irrelevant if you ask me. Sure, let's say I lose 10%. That means I need to string at 61lbs to compensate, and therefore actually get 55... Well, now I'm a few lbs over for the characteristics I originally wanted.
Think of the strings as a trampoline, the higher the tension, the lower the power
Thanks for all the great content
As a reference you mentioned polyester 10-15 hours, synthetic gut 15-20 hours, what about natural gut hours?
Thanks for a great video. So if I get it right, someone like who does not break and plays 1/2 a week should go for a natural gut to limit tension loss. Correct? Also, I am owning and like switching rackets from time to time. So some might end up sitting home for a several weeks without a play. Do I understand that natural guts would also allow me to do that without having to restring every time I wish to play with a particular racket? Many thanks
Yes
I have some old racquets that have never been restrung, but they still sing (imo) when tapping on them. Anyone have an idea of what kind of string they may be...? They still seem to hit pretty well too.
I understand the tension loss. But let's say my target tension is 45lbs. So I string it at 60lbs. I expect it will lose tenssion 25% after one play, but after that it stabllized for a while. Does this strategy work? Does this strategy work? Or what is the difference if I string it 45lbs, and I just play one time. And cut it.
there’s tension loss right after u string, so what u think of as 45 might not actually be 45
Exactly... I don't think anyone is answering your question properly. Let's say my ideal range of tension is 45 ~ 50. No point in stringing it at 50, when I know the tension will drop below 45 even before I take it to the tennis court. I might as well string it at 60 and hope that as the tension drops - it will eventually be in my comfort zone
No. To explain to you, first you have to understand string mechanics in mechanical engineering. The string under constant tension will constantly elongate hence lose tension until it becomes plastic-ish, no longer stretch further. It doesn't matter how initially was done. The loss tension he was talking about is out of the gate relatively after the string job.
I bought a Prince Textreme Warrior 100 with klip legend natural gut 17 string. what tension do you recommend for my wife who is a beginner, has somewhat good aiming but lacks a bit of power.
how and what kind of wax used to put on gut strings to give more durability?
I use both cyclone and 4G in my rackets!
I am a 4.0 player. I used the Luxilon 4G 125 15L. After about 15 hours of solid play, I feel the tension dropped precipitously. After impact with groundstrokes, string bed gets uneven. I have to manually keep pulling strings back together after each point like they used to do it in olden days (which is a pain in the neck)...Obviously, its been only 10 days since I've been using them and it won't break but my CONTROL is gone.
What do you suggest? If I go with natural gut (ur link) which I've never tried before, do you think it'll be value for money. ($45)...Also, do you suggest thinner strings (17 or 18)?
4G is known for having good tension maintenance for a poly so if you feel like the tension is not lasting long enough, it may be worth it to try natural gut just for the experiment. Since it's expensive I usually only do 16G but if you're not a string breaker you can do 17. I'm a proponent of using as thin of a string as you can without breaking your stringing budget. Thin strings offer several advantages with the only downside being durability in my view.
@@friscotennisstringing Noted. thanks a lot for your response.
Are there any cons to playing with "dead" strings? I play with dead Luxilon ALU Power and I just notice a bit less spin due to the strings not snapping back as much but otherwise is fine and actually has more power. I don't have any arm problems either. So if I can control it, is it worth restringing?
If you don't feel like it's harming your game, I'd say stick with it. Many people will notice less control though as a result of the strings not having the snap back and responsiveness of a recently strung racket.
You considered using luxilon 4g? Basically plays like 4 hours used alu power from first hit til breaking
why does my 11 year old technfiber racket (never changed string) hits so hard .. i guess you can say trampoline but i can get more power out of it than a freshly new strung up racket at 55lb... ?
That’s cause it’s at 55 lb lmao.
@@commondirtbagz7130 you some kinda goof? If I had it lower than 55lb it would have even more power
Captain Diabetes no shit Sherlock.
I dont no what poly you are talking about but they break on my all the time horrible
How about hybrids?
I'd focus on the main string for hybrids. The main string sets the tempo for how the racket will play. If you are not using a poly as the main, I'd say you can go until it breaks most of the time. If you use poly as the main, I'd play until the string bed felt "dead"
I can't tell if he is in his 50s or not
but lower tension is good for spin so loss of tension is good.
If every racket loses 5-10% every time, after stringing, it makes no difference.
All rackets will feel the same.
50% is too high!