Your videos are absolutely superb. I can't thank you enough for making them, very detailed and very clear instructions. I have a 97 Prelude myself and I live in Ireland. I'm so glad you made these videos and shared them. Please keep up the great work. Best of luck.
Wow, GREAT tutorial! Clear, concise instructions, excellent lighting and camera skills. A professionally done video in every respect. This comment is from an ASE certified auto repair veteran who also happens to be a part time photographer.
awesome attention to the small details.. :-) suggesting some minor details/corrections. - The valve cover torque specs are 87 "inch-pound" and not 87 "foot-pound. 87 foot found will for a lug nut possbly. - Ensure the TDC is on the compression and not exhaust stroke , watching the extension level off doesn't tell which stroke it is on. It's better to match the cam pulley arrows. Also there is a dwell on the TDC after the extension levels off , its not true TDC, you will need a dial gauge or piston stop(risky) to figure out the true TDC. You will have to rotate the crank in opposite direction and reach same location, then take half the length to get TDC.. otherwise just use the cam pulley arrows. Awesome video and good job ... :-)
Bend the feeler gauge about an inch and eighth back at 90 then go between the adjuste and valve stem. lightly work the adjuster while moving the feeler tell a firm drag. hold the adjusterr while seting the lock nut: same time checking the drag on the feeler.
Good vid. i saw the paradox of the mechanic and the surgeon when you used the pick to remove the spark plug gaskets while wearing rubber gloves, the valve cover on the operating table and then lastly with the classical music softly playing in the background. Sometime its working on your ride is like performing open heart surgery.
Pretty basic video. If people went by this and nothing else they probably wouldn't have a very accurate valve adjustment or they could mess things up pretty bad. TDC should be found in a more accurate way than by just waiting for the piston to level off, also you have to make sure you are on the compression stroke. Those things should have been mentioned. If you are able to, also try and be right in the middle of the valve tolerances when adjusting. That way you won't have any out of spec for a long time. The video is helpful though for people aware of those things, thanks
Thanks +pablo henriquez I'm glad I could help out. That's awesome that you're wrenching on v-tecs! Hondas are so much fun to work on. I'll see what I can do about some stage 2&3 parts, so stay tuned!
Hellow Finbar Odwyer, If you are referring to the 10mm valve nut that tightens the valve in place, then you do not need a torque wrench for that nut. Just make sure to tighten it really well while keeping the valve in place to maintain proper adjustment. If you are referring to the 8 10mm nuts that mounts the valve cover to the engine head, then yes, I recommend using a torque wrench and to also tighten down the 8 nuts in the sequence that I have outlined in the video. The reason for using a torque wrench for the valve cover nuts is because it's easy to strip the nuts if too much hand torque is applied and second, you want an even pressure spread across the whole valve cover to ensure no leaks, thus improving reliability and performance. Cheers!
Great vid I'll be referencing this when I do my lash tomorrow. I'd like to add the valve adjustment lock nut torque spec is 14 ft lbs, per the helms manual
This is an awesome vid. THANK YOU FOR THE WONDERFUL WORK. i have an h22a4 with 173k miles in a 01 lude body. started off needing to do the egr and was fine for a while. i been kinda broke and struggling with misfire codes for cyl 123 and multi-random. have done plugs wire and distributor(since the seal was leaking oil anyway) and coil pack. comp test read 195 195 200 205. this vid poped up in my feed and will really help me save money insted of having a shop do this. thank you!
awesome video, but would you have any idea how to resolve a p1399 error code on a 2k prelude? 10k miles ago a full tuneup, cap/rotor/plugs/wires/valve adj/timing belt/crank sensor/waterpump/ and EGR port cleanout was done, now the car is misfiring out of nowhere. I'm baffled since everything is new and fresh... misfires on all cylinders randomly. thanks if you can help, but I'm stumped!!!
Jalil J have you fixed this issue?? I'm starting to have the same situation going on, i know you posted this years ago but i am Very curious as mine is acting the same way.. thanks!
99 Honda Prelude SH. Just what I needed, I have a new RED valve cover and I need to do the valves. Great video and easy to follow. Any others on Honda Prelude??
great tutorial. only thing i would have done differently would be, to remove the positive terminal instead of the ground so you dont accidentally bump the wire so it ends up grounding.
No offense Alan, but don't you have that backwards? You always remove the negative cable instead of the positive. If you pull the positive cable off and don't cover it with something, and the cable touches some bare metal, then you would short out the battery to ground, not the way you are thinking. Every single automotive procedure states to remove the negative cable, not the positive.
I just needed the numbers, it's almore the same as a 2jz .008 and .006(+/-.001 btw the exhaust is always the bigger numbers in tolerance as it heats up more from thermal expansion....anywho's u don't need that fancy tool to do this I did mine with a screwdriver and 10mm u just have to make sure the nut is snug before u stop holding the screw. Then always double check even if u think u got it check it again and again.
vtec cams make lands in the rocker arm pads ... they break into each other. using the feeler gauge between the cam and rocker gives a false read. The true way is between the valve stem and rocker adjuster.
Every other part is tec correct. The adjustment is the whole reason for this work. Take it from a VTEC owner from 1999. Ive messed this up allot. AAn acura Nsx tec told me what i did wrong.
Hello Uncle Johnie Plays! Between 30K and 50K miles. It also depends on how hard you drive the car. If the engine goes to 7,200 RPM quite often, then you'll want to adjust the valves more frequently. If the engine hardly goes past 5,000 RPM then you can go longer before adjusting valves. I hope this helps. Cheers!
Hi Vette963, Yes you want to have the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Start with cylinder 1 and use the arrows on the cam gears to confirm you're at cylinder 1 TDC. The arrows should point up at 12 o'clock.
Hi +Alvaresmaico20, I would recommend a good quality feeler gauge because the tolerance needs to be pretty exact. I use the Craftsman 40804 feeler gauge.
Your timing belt is covered in oil and is walking off the cams. could mean bad Tensioner which is common if your still running the stock auto tensioner
Hi,i have a 1999 honda prelude with check engine light on. HAS code p0303 cyl 3 misfire detected. I've replaced Ignition coil /spark plugs /spark plug weirs /distributor.could it be fuel filter/ clogged cat/fuel injectors/EGR valve/timing belt? any advice?
Hi +T.1.F.C THAT1FROMCALI, Misfires can be tricky. If you have a bad cat your car would tell you. What type of spark plugs are you using? The H22 is very picky when it comes to spark plugs. Sometimes it can be a bent valve or a scorched valve. If you think it's the injectors, you could test the voltage on them to see if they're all functioning properly. Try cleaning your EGR valve before purchasing a new one. and try doing a leak down test and compression test on all the cylinders as well.
champion double platinum power spark plugs and I recently cleaned the EGR valve and now there is no check engine light but every now and then now I get a sudden jerk on acceleration sometimes. other than that it runs better than it did
that's the plugs I put in mine. and people never believe me when I tell them the same plugs have been in the car for over 3 years! it still runs great. makes good power all the way through the rpm range
Hi! This video only covers the H22A4. I would check with your shop manual or ask around on the Honda-Tech forums here: honda-tech.com/ for further clarification. Cheers!
Hello Jxelll! You have an awesome engine! This video only covers the H22A4. I would check the forums on Honda-Tech for clarification here: honda-tech.com/ . Cheers!
and fail. never go between the cam and rocker. go between the adjuster and valve stem. and check out the timing belt this h22a4 has more probloms than a vavle adjustmant. Please go between the djuster and valve stem. the rocker pads wear in and get vallies. VTEC engines are a pain to get right.
Great video thanks for posting. I recently did a head gasket job on an h22a4 and had the rebuilt(shaved, new valve seals, cut valve seats, etc) and i remember the machinist telling me he would calibrate lash to .004(INT) and .006(EXH). The car runs smooth n idles fine with no misses but i noticed that it doesnt pickup power that good when VTEC kicks in n starts dying out right before redline when it would pull fine before. Also, my low oil pressure light comes ON when vtec was used before. Do you think this lack of power during VTEC is due to incorrect lash adjustment? Thanks for your help.....anybody.
Hi Jairo, Sorry to hear that your car isn't performing well after the rebuild. H22 motors are very sensitive. It's always best to use OEM replacement parts if you can. I would recommend that you find a few reputable machinist that specialize with H22 motors and see if they agree with the specs and then make a decision based on your findings. Hope everything works out for you.
ihateliberals I hooked up an oil pressure gauge where the sender behind the block goes n found out i have low oil pressure due to a bad oil pump once the oil thins up. This explains the vtec not engaging completely since it's dependent on oil pressure. Thanks for your help with the issue but seems the oil pump was the issue on my end.
JRG well, that's really the kind of issue I was thinking of. low pressure is a common issue with vtec engaging properly. with my prelude, occasionally it doesn't engage when the engine is cold. or sometimes, even if the oil is a little low(1/2 to 1 quart) is enough to cause it. glad you got it figured out. I'm having an issue with my charging system, and it's really pissing me off....damn cars
my battery kept dying on me...ended up being my positive terminal was kinda loose. I got a piece of perforated steel strap and wrapped it around the post inside the terminal and that made it a very nice, snug connection. Also, taking a wire brush to the terminal on the alternator could help as well.
Oil on the timing belt, replace it!!!!. Also no need to be scientific when deciding which lobes you can adjust. All you need to do is find out which lobes are facing 180 degree up and adjust them. Its not rocket science!
Heh I know what you mean but it's not that simple. My 4.7 v8 Grand Cherokee engine (chain timing) died after 219,000kms due to a dropped valve seat. I agree timing 'belts' apart from 'chains' suck but honestly the way modern engines are built it almost seems like pot luck. Meanwhile my 3.5 litre V6 timing belt engine on another car (Nissan Maxima) just keeps going after 300,000kms (never bothered to replace it because to be frank I just want it to die - but it never does and still does 0-100 in under 7 seconds).
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Hey family! Let me know how your engine runs after the valve adjustment.
Feel free to leave a tip 😊💲VENMO: @GarageDynamics
Does So I did my valves 1 through 4 in order. Do I have to adjust them in the firing order? Or 1,4,2,3? Or does this not matter? Thanks in advance.
i was 1 minute into the video and the clarity right off the bat told me this was the real deal so i paused and had to subscribe
Thank you for the kind words and subscribing! :)
Your videos are absolutely superb. I can't thank you enough for making them, very detailed and very clear instructions.
I have a 97 Prelude myself and I live in Ireland. I'm so glad you made these videos and shared them.
Please keep up the great work.
Best of luck.
Thanks Mutton Head! I appreciate the kind words :) Glad to see that this video could help you out. I'll keep up the great work! Cheers!
More Prelude DIY videos Great video!!!
Thanks salevtec More videos are on the way!
I wish I had prelude to do this, great video.
Thanks seekandestroy77
seekandestroy77 just got a 98 with half bad paint for 1300 from a family friend. The owner passed and I lucked out.
I just bought a 2000 prelude on OfferUp really clean in and out and Red for 1400
I have a H22 in my CRX and this video helped! Thanks a lot!!
Wow, GREAT tutorial! Clear, concise instructions, excellent lighting and camera skills. A professionally done video in every respect. This comment is from an ASE certified auto repair veteran who also happens to be a part time photographer.
Thanks fjsa0625,
It's good to see that we share the same interest. Thanks again for taking the time to watch and comment on my video!
That was an excellent video! Out of curiosity do you own a Prelude? If so when you change your timing belt please do another tutorial.
Seriously, great video. I'll be performing my valve adjustment this weekend thanks to finding this.
awesome attention to the small details.. :-) suggesting some minor details/corrections.
- The valve cover torque specs are 87 "inch-pound" and not 87 "foot-pound. 87 foot found will for a lug nut possbly.
- Ensure the TDC is on the compression and not exhaust stroke , watching the extension level off doesn't tell which stroke it is on. It's better to match the cam pulley arrows. Also there is a dwell on the TDC after the extension levels off , its not true TDC, you will need a dial gauge or piston stop(risky) to figure out the true TDC. You will have to rotate the crank in opposite direction and reach same location, then take half the length to get TDC.. otherwise just use the cam pulley arrows.
Awesome video and good job ... :-)
more videos!!! awesome video dude great job one of the best videos on RUclips more prelude videos
Thanks Deaththekidd30!
More videos are on the way. Thanks for watching.
Good video, the net needs more prelude fix up videos, too many people giving up on ludes, cause they are afraid to try fixing.
1 and 4 are tdc at the same time.. just on a different stroke
Bend the feeler gauge about an inch and eighth back at 90 then go between the adjuste and valve stem. lightly work the adjuster while moving the feeler tell a firm drag. hold the adjusterr while seting the lock nut: same time checking the drag on the feeler.
Excellent video! Please make a video about the replacement valve stem seals!
Ccomo puedo calibrar honda relude coupe bb2255 año 92
Good vid. i saw the paradox of the mechanic and the surgeon when you used the pick to remove the spark plug gaskets while wearing rubber gloves, the valve cover on the operating table and then lastly with the classical music softly playing in the background. Sometime its working on your ride is like performing open heart surgery.
wish my h22 was that clean i just got the car i got to clean it. like your video keep up the good work.
+bud morse Thanks! Good choice, the Prelude is an awesome car.
thanks.
Pretty basic video. If people went by this and nothing else they probably wouldn't have a very accurate valve adjustment or they could mess things up pretty bad.
TDC should be found in a more accurate way than by just waiting for the piston to level off, also you have to make sure you are on the compression stroke. Those things should have been mentioned. If you are able to, also try and be right in the middle of the valve tolerances when adjusting. That way you won't have any out of spec for a long time.
The video is helpful though for people aware of those things, thanks
thanks bro, you should show videos with stage 2&3 parts in it. you got crazy skill, I just started rebuilding hella v-tecs lately. You're a big help.
Thanks +pablo henriquez I'm glad I could help out. That's awesome that you're wrenching on v-tecs! Hondas are so much fun to work on. I'll see what I can do about some stage 2&3 parts, so stay tuned!
If you dont have a torque wrench handy is it realy important to torque the 10mm valve locking nut???
Hellow Finbar Odwyer, If you are referring to the 10mm valve nut that tightens the valve in place, then you do not need a torque wrench for that nut. Just make sure to tighten it really well while keeping the valve in place to maintain proper adjustment. If you are referring to the 8 10mm nuts that mounts the valve cover to the engine head, then yes, I recommend using a torque wrench and to also tighten down the 8 nuts in the sequence that I have outlined in the video. The reason for using a torque wrench for the valve cover nuts is because it's easy to strip the nuts if too much hand torque is applied and second, you want an even pressure spread across the whole valve cover to ensure no leaks, thus improving reliability and performance. Cheers!
@@GarageDynamics ok thank you.. what about the bolt that holds the cam pulley to the camshaft?? Would i need a torque wrench for that??
You're welcome Finbar Odwyer! Regarding the bolts that hold the cam gears to the camshaft, you do not need to torque those bolts down. Cheers!
Great vid I'll be referencing this when I do my lash tomorrow. I'd like to add the valve adjustment lock nut torque spec is 14 ft lbs, per the helms manual
Hello Dave Lyle! That's awesome! I'm glad this video could help. Thanks for the information. Cheers!
This is all what i needed to learn thanks!! this video was very helpfull
Thank you Rumercupcake21! I'm glad you found it helpful!
Great job on the video!
This is an awesome vid. THANK YOU FOR THE WONDERFUL WORK. i have an h22a4 with 173k miles in a 01 lude body. started off needing to do the egr and was fine for a while. i been kinda broke and struggling with misfire codes for cyl 123 and multi-random. have done plugs wire and distributor(since the seal was leaking oil anyway) and coil pack. comp test read 195 195 200 205. this vid poped up in my feed and will really help me save money insted of having a shop do this. thank you!
when do you need to do these valve adjustments/ what do you need to look out for> what are the signs?
awesome video, but would you have any idea how to resolve a p1399 error code on a 2k prelude? 10k miles ago a full tuneup, cap/rotor/plugs/wires/valve adj/timing belt/crank sensor/waterpump/ and EGR port cleanout was done, now the car is misfiring out of nowhere. I'm baffled since everything is new and fresh... misfires on all cylinders randomly.
thanks if you can help, but I'm stumped!!!
Jalil J have you fixed this issue?? I'm starting to have the same situation going on, i know you posted this years ago but i am Very curious as mine is acting the same way.. thanks!
gabe most likey its the ignition coil or i forgot whats it called but its in the dis
Same!!😒
check the lash before loosening the adjuster
great review bud. Im going to apply this review for when I do my H22A tomorrow. Thank You. Keep the prelude reviews coming!
Such a great tutorial video you make it look so easy! Thank you from the prelude clubs 😀
What is the downside and harm if tappets are a little loose? My h22 have a bit clicky noise.. specially when i press the pedal
Awesome. Keep. The. Videos. Coming.
Thanks bluelude2001 Will do!
This is a gooooooooood video
My god, look at the timing belt! Its ready to snap
Not just that, that belt was walking lol. Great quality video though
Dont forget to torque down to 15ft-lb after that part important
I miss my Prelude so very very much
Nice pro tip for the top dead center :D
99 Honda Prelude SH. Just what I needed, I have a new RED valve cover and I need to do the valves.
Great video and easy to follow.
Any others on Honda Prelude??
Geard J McCormack Thank you! I'm happy to hear the good news. Yes. I will have more videos coming so stay tuned!
great tutorial. only thing i would have done differently would be, to remove the positive terminal instead of the ground so you dont accidentally bump the wire so it ends up grounding.
Thanks for your time and input Alan Stengel
No offense Alan, but don't you have that backwards? You always remove the negative cable instead of the positive. If you pull the positive cable off and don't cover it with something, and the cable touches some bare metal, then you would short out the battery to ground, not the way you are thinking. Every single automotive procedure states to remove the negative cable, not the positive.
derp.. i feel dumb, never mind
i didnt think that all the way thru
I just needed the numbers, it's almore the same as a 2jz .008 and .006(+/-.001 btw the exhaust is always the bigger numbers in tolerance as it heats up more from thermal expansion....anywho's u don't need that fancy tool to do this I did mine with a screwdriver and 10mm u just have to make sure the nut is snug before u stop holding the screw. Then always double check even if u think u got it check it again and again.
0.17 for intake and 0.19 valve lash for exhaust. you have it swapped around here.
vtec cams make lands in the rocker arm pads ... they break into each other. using the feeler gauge between the cam and rocker gives a false read. The true way is between the valve stem and rocker adjuster.
Every other part is tec correct. The adjustment is the whole reason for this work. Take it from a VTEC owner from 1999. Ive messed this up allot. AAn acura Nsx tec told me what i did wrong.
Very good and nice clean job. Thanks a bunch dude!!
Superb video. Cheers!
Just what i was looking for. Great video
Thanks Brandon S. I'm glad you found it!
Does this apply to the H22A4? I have the tools, but I have no experience with car engines. Planes are very different!
How often does this need to be done in time or mileage
Hello Uncle Johnie Plays! Between 30K and 50K miles. It also depends on how hard you drive the car. If the engine goes to 7,200 RPM quite often, then you'll want to adjust the valves more frequently. If the engine hardly goes past 5,000 RPM then you can go longer before adjusting valves. I hope this helps. Cheers!
@@GarageDynamics thanks this dose help I appreciate you still check in after all the years
@@unclejohnieplays5651 You're very welcome and always brother!
So it must be tdc on compression stroke not exhaust correct? To verify this you simply inspect the position of the cams?
Hi Vette963,
Yes you want to have the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Start with cylinder 1 and use the arrows on the cam gears to confirm you're at cylinder 1 TDC. The arrows should point up at 12 o'clock.
Great video, I'm glad I found it. Help me a lot, THANK
Hi Adalberto Valentin Thank you! I'm glad I could help.
plus look at the timming belt its oiled and cut
does it matter what brand of feelers to use? if so what brand did you use?
Hi +Alvaresmaico20,
I would recommend a good quality feeler gauge because the tolerance needs to be pretty exact. I use the Craftsman 40804 feeler gauge.
the feeler gauge is suposed to go between the rocker and valve stem
Can you make a video for valve adjustment on the k24?
Hi The Doge,
Thanks for your interest. I'll look into your request for you.
great video.. please make videos about every small piece in 5th gen preludes :D
Good video mate!! thx u
Thanks Bobby Srisawas!
Where you sticking the little feeler gauge I can’t see
I usually go a little heavier on the gasket.
你分電盤第5孔插在哪 為何我的沒插 我是六代雅歌字牌改手排 台灣
Your timing belt is covered in oil and is walking off the cams. could mean bad Tensioner which is common if your still running the stock auto tensioner
Hi,i have a 1999 honda prelude with check engine light on. HAS code p0303 cyl 3 misfire detected. I've replaced Ignition coil /spark plugs /spark plug weirs /distributor.could it be fuel filter/ clogged cat/fuel injectors/EGR valve/timing belt? any advice?
Hi +T.1.F.C THAT1FROMCALI,
Misfires can be tricky. If you have a bad cat your car would tell you. What type of spark plugs are you using? The H22 is very picky when it comes to spark plugs. Sometimes it can be a bent valve or a scorched valve. If you think it's the injectors, you could test the voltage on them to see if they're all functioning properly. Try cleaning your EGR valve before purchasing a new one. and try doing a leak down test and compression test on all the cylinders as well.
champion double platinum power spark plugs and I recently cleaned the EGR valve and now there is no check engine light but every now and then now I get a sudden jerk on acceleration sometimes. other than that it runs better than it did
+T.1.F.C THAT1FROMCALI I'm glad to hear the good news! The best plugs for the prelude IMO are the NGK Platinum Model # PZFR6F-11.
that's the plugs I put in mine. and people never believe me when I tell them the same plugs have been in the car for over 3 years! it still runs great. makes good power all the way through the rpm range
ihateliberals you should definitely change the plugs lol
The valve adjustment tool from honda?
Hi Aldo Anaya,
The valve adjustment tool used in this video is from snap-on. It's a 10mm and the model number is YA8895.
2019
Alright great! thank you.
+Alvaresmaico20 Anytime!
Why you disconnet a alternator?
It's this video for every H22? Because i have H22A5 so i want to know if worth it.
Hi! This video only covers the H22A4. I would check with your shop manual or ask around on the Honda-Tech forums here: honda-tech.com/ for further clarification. Cheers!
I have a 2000 Accord Type R. H22A7, so i can use this Video right ? :-)
Hello Jxelll! You have an awesome engine! This video only covers the H22A4. I would check the forums on Honda-Tech for clarification here: honda-tech.com/ . Cheers!
and fail. never go between the cam and rocker. go between the adjuster and valve stem. and check out the timing belt this h22a4 has more probloms than a vavle adjustmant. Please go between the djuster and valve stem. the rocker pads wear in and get vallies. VTEC engines are a pain to get right.
quality video.
Thanks shaun bws
Thanks man
I don't think silicone on the gasket is necessary. For instance the original in your video clearly had none.
pause the video at 10:52, there's clearly silicone at the corners of the cam arches. Without the silicone you will spray oil all over the engine bay.
Great video thanks for posting. I recently did a head gasket job on an h22a4 and had the rebuilt(shaved, new valve seals, cut valve seats, etc) and i remember the machinist telling me he would calibrate lash to .004(INT) and .006(EXH). The car runs smooth n idles fine with no misses but i noticed that it doesnt pickup power that good when VTEC kicks in n starts dying out right before redline when it would pull fine before. Also, my low oil pressure light comes ON when vtec was used before. Do you think this lack of power during VTEC is due to incorrect lash adjustment? Thanks for your help.....anybody.
Hi Jairo, Sorry to hear that your car isn't performing well after the rebuild. H22 motors are very sensitive. It's always best to use OEM replacement parts if you can. I would recommend that you find a few reputable machinist that specialize with H22 motors and see if they agree with the specs and then make a decision based on your findings. Hope everything works out for you.
sounds more like a vtec problem, than a valve adjustment problem
ihateliberals I hooked up an oil pressure gauge where the sender behind the block goes n found out i have low oil pressure due to a bad oil pump once the oil thins up. This explains the vtec not engaging completely since it's dependent on oil pressure. Thanks for your help with the issue but seems the oil pump was the issue on my end.
JRG well, that's really the kind of issue I was thinking of. low pressure is a common issue with vtec engaging properly. with my prelude, occasionally it doesn't engage when the engine is cold. or sometimes, even if the oil is a little low(1/2 to 1 quart) is enough to cause it. glad you got it figured out. I'm having an issue with my charging system, and it's really pissing me off....damn cars
my battery kept dying on me...ended up being my positive terminal was kinda loose. I got a piece of perforated steel strap and wrapped it around the post inside the terminal and that made it a very nice, snug connection. Also, taking a wire brush to the terminal on the alternator could help as well.
but did you have to bend them?
+Alvaresmaico20
No, but I think I bent one on accident. You can measure the tolerance without having to make any bends to the gauge.
God Bless You
Ive run vtec for 18 years ya dont go cam ya go valve stem
Oil on the timing belt, replace it!!!!.
Also no need to be scientific when deciding which lobes you can adjust. All you need to do is find out which lobes are facing 180 degree up and adjust them. Its not rocket science!
Lol. Oil on the belt, so replace the belt? to fix the problem? Genius.
great job. but dude.. that timing belt.............
Your jacket is on backwards :)
Good shit son!! lol
Thanks Buzzydj!
Oh no ya went cam to rocker nooo. Ya have to go fvalve stem to adjuster
Looks like you need new seals .. I see oil on your timing belt...
WeightPull ChAmP which seals?
that timing belt is worn.
Your timing belt is done. To hell with a vavle adjusment your going to need a new engine soon
Nah
Heh I know what you mean but it's not that simple. My 4.7 v8 Grand Cherokee engine (chain timing) died after 219,000kms due to a dropped valve seat. I agree timing 'belts' apart from 'chains' suck but honestly the way modern engines are built it almost seems like pot luck. Meanwhile my 3.5 litre V6 timing belt engine on another car (Nissan Maxima) just keeps going after 300,000kms (never bothered to replace it because to be frank I just want it to die - but it never does and still does 0-100 in under 7 seconds).
1k me
Turned it off Didn’t even get thru the tools needed..... do a tool list
Your timing belt doesn't look very good
please do not use this video to do valve lash on any honda