Lots of people crap on these engines because of the FRM liners but the NSX and S2000 also used FRM cylinders,it worked well as it’s extremely hard wearing but once it’s scratched up,it’ll burn oil.
@@juanarqueros5241 there’s no crosshatching on the cylinders so they’re smooth walled, nothing for the oil to hold onto. If you don’t keep up with oil changes and it gets dirty, it will scratch the walls even though it’s a super hard wearing material. Once that happens, you will burn oil. I have an 01 prelude that doesn’t burn oil even at 177 thousand kms but it does have a couple small leaks here and there but they’re easy to fix 😎
First off. Wanted to say, I love your vids and have been following for about 4-5 years now. Second, I am favoriting this vid, since I still have my H22A swapped 97 Prelude till this day. This december marks 20 years of me being its second owner from when it had 53k, and now it has 282k on the body. I still love the car till this day. 😊
@@speedkar99 I think my old motor could have lasted longer if I had taken better care of it. I was young, and didnt know as much as I know now. The motor was swapped when I had 186k, due to a missfire. I realized I never did figure out what thr missfire was, so I bought a JDM H22A and its been going strong ever since. I of course have taken better care of it. I also have a K24A4 in my TSX, and my wife has a Scion tC (2AZ FE). I know you did maintenance on a 2.4l Camry, but I havent seen a teardown yet.
@@fun_ghoul Miles. 😊 Sorry I should have specified, since we say for example, 1k for 1,000 miles here in America, or at least some us old people still do. 🤣
One of them makes literally 100hp per litre and with some mods can be easily a touch over 100/l. Great fun but it is the reason people say Hondas have no torque haha
@@ReubenHorner i think they mean hondas have no *low end torque*. If an engine makes 100HP and only 90Nm of torque, while another one makes 100HP and 180Nm of torque, both engines make 100HP. HP is HP. The torque DOESN'T MATTER. The engine which makes less torque will run at HIGHER RPM to compensate for the lower torque. The gearbox can convert that high RPM through gearing into more torque.
@@dieselgeezer18 Yes I fully understand this. Its all about where the power comes in. My car makes similar power to say a v6 or maybe an oldschool v8 but at 3000rpm the v8 makes much more power (and torque of course) Horses make you go fast and the torque makes it feel fast (off idle acceleration etc)
@@speedkar99 In a 5th gen prelude, these cars are not the lightest and might not come with the most powerful drivetrain but they sure are a blast to drive! I want to fully restore it so It'll stay by my side the rest of my life.
The lining of the cylinders and oil pumps always fail under boost…you get more power all motor with a B series any day… if you want the best then you would be shopping for a B, K or J series motors for dependability and how modification friendly they are…H series is a waste of time. Unless you want to spend a fortune to upgrade and I guarantee it will still fail.
but how bad is the vibration? i dont want it to rattle like a race car or break my motor mounts, as im just making it a street car, should i get solid motor mounts?
@@cloakedgt so If you were to use this kit, what you’re doing is removing a pulley from the engine which minimizes power output because essentially the timing belt is not moving as fast as it could. If you were to use this, it’s not the your car would vibrate so much, it’s the shafts that are being deleted, giving the cam gear and crank pulley a more clear and quicker sense of movement. For my F22a4 build, I’m going to have my crankshaft balanced, a new crank pulley, new cam gear, new water pump/timing belt, and the balance shaft eliminator kit. Along with the other internals but that’ll help keep the motor with no vibration. Also, depending on your power output, quality motor mounts will also help relax the motor.
Those two rails running the length of the camshafts on top of the cam caps are actually oil sprayers. Each one has two separate oil feed passages with 5 sprayers per pair-of-valves drilled into it them. One feed sprays oil onto each cam lobe at all the times, and the other sprays extra oil when VTEC kicks in..............yo! This is why it's SUPER important you replace the 3 o-rings underneath the cam caps whenever they are removed. Both the B-series and NSX C-series have these same oil rails as well.
I'd like to see this guy do a teardown of a Ford Barra - a fantastic inline 6 turbo engine that rivals the 2J's and RB's for those who haven't heard of it.
I had a 1992 Prelude with this H23 engine, non Vtec though. Still it was a beast, sold it in 2003 with 231,000 km on it, never touched it except the oil changes, and I did not drive it like an old lady, I was in my twenties. Miss it to this day.
I respect those motors over the H22 or H23 VTEC block any day…especially the JDM version…Serously can take all the abuse…we dropped one in an integra…turbo was set at 14 psi all day and it lasted 4 years…until the oil pump destroyed itself…🤣🤣🤣🤣 back to the boosted B Series we went… This was in 1995… years before the K series came out. Today we all run K Series…but I’m looking into a boosted J Series AWD…
Forgot to state that this motor only is available in Japan and is an import motor, was in the Accord wagon over there. The normal 2.3 liter H series in the US is non-Vtec. This video might confuse a lot of people. H and F series are stout as heck though I can agree, all the way from the F22a to the F23a and the H series which is pretty much the same thing as the F series. I've worked on them both. First car I owned had F22a1. F20B which is also an import motor from Japan does not include fiber reinforced cylinder liners, so I think that motor is loved by turbo enthusiasts. F20B is literally a smaller H22.
0:50 this statement really holds no weight since RHD cars exist. Honda just started out making engines that spin backwards (counterclockwise) and it stuck to when they made cars. So the engine is placed the other way around in the bay to avoid using an intermediate shaft in the gearbox. Fun fact: Mitsubishi evo 1-3 had the engine on the left side of the car similar to hondas, but their engine spun clockwise
I had an Accord with this engine. It performed perfectly but the block developed a hairline vertical crack which leaked oil. I traded it in immediately for a newer one with the K24 series engine. Hundreds of thousands of miles later and no problems at all.
I have a 1997 Honda Prelude SH. I have converted it to base and obd1 with hondata s300. Engine is fully built. Money was not an issue. Has a gt25-660 turbo and dynos at 637 whp. It is a daily driver. I retained ac and ps with a minimani. Fully upgraded suspension and wider tires on front. I have a daily tune at 450 hp and a playtime tune at 645.
Hey! Just dropping a line to praise you for this amazing channel. Please keep up the awesome work, it is super informative and helps us the DIY guys tremendously. You have a lot of technical knowledge and know how to put it in simple terms. I really dig the humor and the fact that you don't take it too seriously. One small ask, I've been looking to buy a Mazda Rx8 since they are pretty cheap and have a great chassis. Can you please do a rotary video?? I understand they are not super easy to come by, but I have faith in you! Best!
🔥🔥That’s because it’s a Evolution of the B20a from the 3rd gen prelude, Also a Fórmula 3 Block!!! from the late 80s and a mix of the Single Cam F series Motors, Plus Vtec. Even my F20C block shares bearings and Rod lengths. Amazing Honda 🔥🔥
I miss my 2000 Prelude with the H22A4. The VTEC was awesome. The only work I had to do on it was change the oil filter in the VTEC solenoid. The first time the dealer saw me was at 160K to change the timing belt. I banged every shift at redline for 12 years, until it started to burn oil. I sold it to someone who could do the TLC it needed at that point. It's still running great as far as I know.
I replaced it with a VW since I couldn't find a Honda with a stick. This was right after the tsunami. After multiple repairs my wife begged me to sell that POS before the warranty ran out. I went back to Honda and it's been 6 trouble free years
@@fun_ghoul no, there wasn't. It was a stick shift VW CC with the 2.0T gas engine. In less than 3 years 1 coil pack and 1 intake plenum went bad. There were also 4 problems with the water pump. Glad I sold it.
@@smalldenergy5139 my friend still has the Acura Type R with some spices in it. Somehow I'm more convinced how they handle than some the newest SiR Civics.
@@speedkar99 Yes, they both burned oil, about a liter/quart per 1000 miles. Only minor or no leaks. My 2003 Acura RSX-TypeS also burns oil and the valve-cover leaks (240k miles). I recommend 5k oil changes, not the Honda recommended 10k - it may or may not make a difference, but worth trying, IMO.
@@cernejr Honda K-Series seems to have a common issue with burning oil. Had an 07 Accord, 200k, all highway miles, very well maintained, oil changed every 5k, still started burning a quart every 500-1000 miles at 200k miles.
@@zuhayrali4202 I mean, 200k miles is a lot. Also, mileage isn't as good an indicator of blow-by (IMO) as number of engine starts...but nobody counts that! Even so, a lot of engines have died as engine oil gets thinner and tolerances tighter. Big Auto doesn't GAF! The sooner it dies, the sooner you give them more money!
I saved an h22a1 from the junkyard by slapping a new harmonic balancer, snout bolt and snout woodruff in a 285k miles 95 vtec Milano red 5spd. I paid $400. Came with harm balancer. Spent like $50 bucks in parts and redid the timing and ignition and she ran like a beaut.
I've watched this video more than once, every time makes me want to search the ads for a well-kept, unmolested VTi Prelude to buy (once again) and take good care of it
I have the engine that is most common for oil burning issues. It's preventable with regular oil changes and not cold thrashing it. My car has done 280,000km and needs 1l/8,000km.
@@mechanicundercontract7752 for this specific engine h22a7 it's a very low amount of consumption. No smog here. I keep up on the maintenance. Plugs are expensive in my country, still replaced them last year tracing down a missfire.
Something important to note is that the h22 is only an interference engine while in vtec. Don't take my word for it check for yourself. I personally scored a 400 car after guy swore up and down it was shot. I put 50 bucks in parts at it after the harmonic balancer and crank key fell out due to UNDER TORQUED CRANK SNOUT BOLT. ran great. 285k miles BTW. Crazy how well that car was maintained
14:28 thats what makes your videos so much better than other car channels. I don't know anything about cars and parts but when i see actual visual representations of why certain models are better than others, It makes so much more sense!
The vtec and non vtec have different heads but are similar. b18c's have a crank girdle, while b16a-b20z do not. Intake manifolds differ quite a bit, with the b18c1 having a unique multi-runner design with an extra butterfly. The b16b and b18c5 were the type-r engines with 45' cut valves, bigger cams, and built for a higher redline. Beware if building one, the b20 (crv) engines have no baffles in the oil pan (not recommended!), an integra one fits and has them.
I think the item i would hate the most is having an oil filter at the rear under intake manifold. That being said, the oil cooler I found interesting and tubular framing for oil passages. Neat stuff
0:43 - What's interesting is that you've got that backwards because Honda is from Japan where they know the steering wheel should be on the right side of the car :)
Nice review 👍 Interesting to see the changes with modern engine design compared to these overbuilt engines to prioritize low friction, low mass, low cost, and economy.
It would have been perfect if not for the silly idea of using spray on cylinder liners which deteriorate and cause insane oil burning problems. They should have kept the cast iron sleeves of the F22.
9:12 many (if not all, made after the mid 80s) dirt bikes engines are like that but I'm not sure it's the same thing. They call it Nikasil. It lasts a lot longer than a cast iron sleeved cylinder, has better heat transfer and are able to work with tighter tolerances but the downside is when they get damaged or wear out, you have to bore the cylinder and replate it or depending on the damage, replace the whole thing. Some say they can also produce more power because the coating is more "slippery" than a cast iron bore. I had NO IDEA something like that was being used on a regular car engine.
This was used on H-series engines and C-series engines for the NSX, and also on the F20 from the S2000. Complicates the choice for aftermarket pistons as they had to be compatible with the FRM liners. Still with OEM or properly made pistons these cylinders never went out of shape or wear out despite sustaining high rpm and high compression on some of the models. The piston rings would get worn instead.
Depends on what block you use. Outlaw Pat mentions one of the more involved, but better builds. I think they called it the g23 back in the day (between f and h). There are a few diffrent blocks, but anything with FRM liners will need to be sleeved or low mile, hence using the f20 block, which has conventional liners iirc.
@@nobodynoone2500 I have a 95 Honda Accord w an f series block but 300k miles on it. Was planning to do H22a or H22b engine swap but not sure where to get best parts to mod the engine out properly.
These are beautiful engines, very responsive. I owned a prelude with a H22A1 engine that I got for $3,000AUD a few years back when I was starting my machanic apprenticeship When I was driving the car hard on the highway and being an absolute hoon the 3rd big end bearing seized to the crankshaft due to a blocked oil channel to the bearing and being new to the trade I didnt thing much of it and scrapped the car to a wrecker. Been kicking myself for getting rid of the car ever since
Drove the piss out of a k20a3 from 130k all the way to 205k miles.. super solid motor when stock.. I replaced it in my driveway with another one for $400 only because the valve guides started leaking a little oil
Love your channel!!! I have an s2000 f20c motor with 149k miles, piston slap on cylinder 1. Still runs and drives, I'm pulling the motor for the new one here next month. If you want it for your channel shoot me an offer. I'm sure the f20c would be a hit. It would be an honor to see you take it apart😁
Had the JDM H23A in my 5th gen prelude. That thing(at least to ME) was a torque monster! Despite the hefty 3000lbs, it pulls really nice, literally pulls you back a bit when VTEC hits. Miss that car!
@@speedkar99 lol i know it sounds ridiculous, but coming from a 92 honda hatchback dx with a 1.5L that could..to an jdm H23A swap 5th gen lude, that was plenty fast to me lol.
For all Honda 80's and 90's engines (B, D, F, H): All the parts that should be metal ARE metal. All the parts that should be solid state are solid state (not electronic) All the parts that should be stand alone are stand alone (not "Big Brother" computer controlled/monitored) No crazy plastic application No over complicated convoluted designed to deter DIY and justify large fees No planned obsolescence.
I love my Honda engines, but even I do have to say that Honda did screw the pooch on good oil cooling on some of their high power vehicles. Someone I know was having oil foaming issues while on the race track because of excessive oil temperatures. He had to rebuild his B16 because of the foaming issues after just a few track days. I recommended an external oil cooler, which he thought was dumb because he isn't turbocharging his engine, and because there was already the factory "cooler". He did listen to me, added an external cooler for his oil and suddenly his oil foaming issues were gone and the engine was eat hot lap after hot lap. Non-VTEC Honda B and H series engines do not tend to get even the small, factory oil coolers, at least in my experience.
The problem with h22 preludes is the heders they are very close to the oil pan is a gap like a 3/8 of an inch or may be half inch ..and that h22 engine gets so hot more than an normal temperature plus valve seals ..and intake pasages gets cloged mix of oil grase...
Wow. That impact gun removed that crank shaft bolt without breaking a sweat. Did you already break it free with a breaker bar and the Honda crank tool? It was a real pain to get it off my D-Series.
When VTEC kicks in yo
Thank you for that
Yeah yo
VTEC? My Honda Motor has MTREC. :P
Yo
Heard that, and looked for this comment right away 😅
this guy is low key hilarious
Lots of people crap on these engines because of the FRM liners but the NSX and S2000 also used FRM cylinders,it worked well as it’s extremely hard wearing but once it’s scratched up,it’ll burn oil.
What causes this?
@@juanarqueros5241 there’s no crosshatching on the cylinders so they’re smooth walled, nothing for the oil to hold onto. If you don’t keep up with oil changes and it gets dirty, it will scratch the walls even though it’s a super hard wearing material. Once that happens, you will burn oil. I have an 01 prelude that doesn’t burn oil even at 177 thousand kms but it does have a couple small leaks here and there but they’re easy to fix 😎
First off. Wanted to say, I love your vids and have been following for about 4-5 years now. Second, I am favoriting this vid, since I still have my H22A swapped 97 Prelude till this day. This december marks 20 years of me being its second owner from when it had 53k, and now it has 282k on the body. I still love the car till this day. 😊
Wow that's awesome! The Hondas sure can take high mileage
@@speedkar99 I think my old motor could have lasted longer if I had taken better care of it. I was young, and didnt know as much as I know now. The motor was swapped when I had 186k, due to a missfire. I realized I never did figure out what thr missfire was, so I bought a JDM H22A and its been going strong ever since. I of course have taken better care of it. I also have a K24A4 in my TSX, and my wife has a Scion tC (2AZ FE). I know you did maintenance on a 2.4l Camry, but I havent seen a teardown yet.
Is that miles or km, Keith?
@@fun_ghoul Miles. 😊 Sorry I should have specified, since we say for example, 1k for 1,000 miles here in America, or at least some us old people still do. 🤣
@@Kantoh22 It's all good. Just had to clarify, as we use the same lingo for kilometres up here. Cheers.
My goodness, now i know why i have always loved this engine. It was built like a TANK!
"These engines were actually pretty powerful for their time, producing almost 100hp"
😂
"...per liter."
😯
One of them makes literally 100hp per litre and with some mods can be easily a touch over 100/l. Great fun but it is the reason people say Hondas have no torque haha
It gave me an excuse to keep the revs up, and stay close or in that sweet VTEC
@@ReubenHorner same with the F20B DOHC VTEC 2000cc/200hp= 100hp P/l
@@ReubenHorner i think they mean hondas have no *low end torque*. If an engine makes 100HP and only 90Nm of torque, while another one makes 100HP and 180Nm of torque, both engines make 100HP. HP is HP. The torque DOESN'T MATTER. The engine which makes less torque will run at HIGHER RPM to compensate for the lower torque. The gearbox can convert that high RPM through gearing into more torque.
@@dieselgeezer18 Yes I fully understand this. Its all about where the power comes in. My car makes similar power to say a v6 or maybe an oldschool v8 but at 3000rpm the v8 makes much more power (and torque of course)
Horses make you go fast and the torque makes it feel fast (off idle acceleration etc)
I'm going to do my very first engine rebuild alone on a h22a4, I'm VERY thankful of seeing this analysis pre operation. You just gained a new sub!
Glad I could help, all the best on your build. What's it going into?
@@speedkar99 In a 5th gen prelude, these cars are not the lightest and might not come with the most powerful drivetrain but they sure are a blast to drive! I want to fully restore it so It'll stay by my side the rest of my life.
No way I just found your channel and you post this next day. I got a 1992 Honda prelude with a JDM imported h22a swap. I love h series engines
Way!
Joe The Eurosquatter lol this man a legend
Damn, no wonder you can build these to make 1000hp. Everything about it looks stout as fuck.
Honda makes the best 4 cylinder engines without a doubt just look at the video done by haltec on the Honda k series
@@pinytenis420 I often make the joke that Honda is a company that sells engines, that just so happen to come with a free car attached to it
@@accordinglyryan very true
The lining of the cylinders and oil pumps always fail under boost…you get more power all motor with a B series any day… if you want the best then you would be shopping for a B, K or J series motors for dependability and how modification friendly they are…H series is a waste of time. Unless you want to spend a fortune to upgrade and I guarantee it will still fail.
@@mechanicundercontract7752 I dailyed my boosted at 270whp for two years the only oil burning was from the turbo
Tip for those who are going to be building an F/H series engine, the Kaizenspeed Balanceshaft Eliminator Kit will, with a good tune, free up 15-25 hp.
but how bad is the vibration? i dont want it to rattle like a race car or break my motor mounts, as im just making it a street car, should i get solid motor mounts?
@@cloakedgt I did the belt delete, no elminator kit, and NVH is not noticable
@@killingmeman oh ok thanks
@@cloakedgt so If you were to use this kit, what you’re doing is removing a pulley from the engine which minimizes power output because essentially the timing belt is not moving as fast as it could. If you were to use this, it’s not the your car would vibrate so much, it’s the shafts that are being deleted, giving the cam gear and crank pulley a more clear and quicker sense of movement. For my F22a4 build, I’m going to have my crankshaft balanced, a new crank pulley, new cam gear, new water pump/timing belt, and the balance shaft eliminator kit. Along with the other internals but that’ll help keep the motor with no vibration. Also, depending on your power output, quality motor mounts will also help relax the motor.
@@trackshun oh ok thanks, im not familiar with nonda motors just learning it all now, i started with classics first
Nice vid, as an H23a bt guy I appreciate you taking the time.
Those two rails running the length of the camshafts on top of the cam caps are actually oil sprayers. Each one has two separate oil feed passages with 5 sprayers per pair-of-valves drilled into it them. One feed sprays oil onto each cam lobe at all the times, and the other sprays extra oil when VTEC kicks in..............yo! This is why it's SUPER important you replace the 3 o-rings underneath the cam caps whenever they are removed. Both the B-series and NSX C-series have these same oil rails as well.
Good to know. I sure was surprised and how it's set-up under the valve cover
I'd like to see this guy do a teardown of a Ford Barra - a fantastic inline 6 turbo engine that rivals the 2J's and RB's for those who haven't heard of it.
The unfortunate thing is that its only really available here in Australia.
Yea I like barras as well but do they make 100hp Per litre without a turbo.
These cranks can hold 1000hp easy as a 2.2.
Crazy
I had a 1992 Prelude with this H23 engine, non Vtec though. Still it was a beast, sold it in 2003 with 231,000 km on it, never touched it except the oil changes, and I did not drive it like an old lady, I was in my twenties. Miss it to this day.
I respect those motors over the H22 or H23 VTEC block any day…especially the JDM version…Serously can take all the abuse…we dropped one in an integra…turbo was set at 14 psi all day and it lasted 4 years…until the oil pump destroyed itself…🤣🤣🤣🤣 back to the boosted B Series we went… This was in 1995… years before the K series came out. Today we all run K Series…but I’m looking into a boosted J Series AWD…
Love my 5th gen prelude. Funnest car ive ever owned,and when that vtec kick in yo! 😍 Excellent teardown 👍🏻
Forgot to state that this motor only is available in Japan and is an import motor, was in the Accord wagon over there. The normal 2.3 liter H series in the US is non-Vtec. This video might confuse a lot of people. H and F series are stout as heck though I can agree, all the way from the F22a to the F23a and the H series which is pretty much the same thing as the F series. I've worked on them both. First car I owned had F22a1. F20B which is also an import motor from Japan does not include fiber reinforced cylinder liners, so I think that motor is loved by turbo enthusiasts. F20B is literally a smaller H22.
I found out later this was actually an H22
@@speedkar99 i was gonna say this looks a lot like the H22A in my '93 prelude lol
0:50 this statement really holds no weight since RHD cars exist. Honda just started out making engines that spin backwards (counterclockwise) and it stuck to when they made cars. So the engine is placed the other way around in the bay to avoid using an intermediate shaft in the gearbox.
Fun fact: Mitsubishi evo 1-3 had the engine on the left side of the car similar to hondas, but their engine spun clockwise
@@atomicforcegaming2867 righty-o, you got me man!
Weakest comment I’ve seen yet
4:52- That's just a gearset that reverses the rotation of the balance shaft so it spins in the right direction.
It looks oily so I thought it was a pump but that makes sense
@@speedkar99 I can see definitely see how it might look like an oil pump. Love these teardowns, btw.
That engine is a paid actor! That balancer bolt came out way to easy!
Stunt bolt
Waiting for a R series video or a modern L series. Great video as always.
I have an R series here with a cracked block. Stay tuned!
I had a JDM H22A engine I swapped into a 92 Prelude Si. It wasn't the fastest car, but it was fun and the VTEC crossover sounded so good!
Nice. Good old cars of the 90s
I've been waiting for this.
Thanks
Same!
@@speedkar99 ⁰0⁰00⁰0
@@speedkar99 ⁰0
@@speedkar99 00⁰00
I have 2000 Prelude with ~120K miles. It does leak oil. I have to check the level about once a month. But other than that, it has been so reliable.
Prelude on top bro
You better be checking your oil more often than that, no matter what you own.
I had an Accord with this engine. It performed perfectly but the block developed a hairline vertical crack which leaked oil. I traded it in immediately for a newer one with the K24 series engine. Hundreds of thousands of miles later and no problems at all.
I have a 1997 Honda Prelude SH. I have converted it to base and obd1 with hondata s300. Engine is fully built. Money was not an issue. Has a gt25-660 turbo and dynos at 637 whp. It is a daily driver. I retained ac and ps with a minimani. Fully upgraded suspension and wider tires on front. I have a daily tune at 450 hp and a playtime tune at 645.
I just came 😅
Surprised it made that hp with the mini mani
All that money spent and it's still Wrong Wheel Drive.
@@TheBb6prelude 850fab said they have pushed the mini mani up to 800 before the welds cracked on it.
@@idokwatcher2062 hate to break it to you but there are 7 second front wheel drives out there. And I am converting to all wheel drive within 5 years.
Can you do a mechanical review on Honda's L15B turbo engine (AKA dilutiongate engine)?
Ok
Hey! Just dropping a line to praise you for this amazing channel. Please keep up the awesome work, it is super informative and helps us the DIY guys tremendously. You have a lot of technical knowledge and know how to put it in simple terms.
I really dig the humor and the fact that you don't take it too seriously.
One small ask, I've been looking to buy a Mazda Rx8 since they are pretty cheap and have a great chassis.
Can you please do a rotary video?? I understand they are not super easy to come by, but I have faith in you!
Best!
Gotta say Vtec is one heck of an invention, very clever.
It sure is!
🔥🔥That’s because it’s a Evolution of the B20a from the 3rd gen prelude, Also a Fórmula 3 Block!!! from the late 80s and a mix of the Single Cam F series Motors, Plus Vtec. Even my F20C block shares bearings and Rod lengths. Amazing Honda 🔥🔥
They sure make good motors
I miss my 2000 Prelude with the H22A4. The VTEC was awesome. The only work I had to do on it was change the oil filter in the VTEC solenoid. The first time the dealer saw me was at 160K to change the timing belt. I banged every shift at redline for 12 years, until it started to burn oil. I sold it to someone who could do the TLC it needed at that point. It's still running great as far as I know.
I replaced it with a VW since I couldn't find a Honda with a stick. This was right after the tsunami. After multiple repairs my wife begged me to sell that POS before the warranty ran out. I went back to Honda and it's been 6 trouble free years
Great video as always BTW
@@ccloutiutube Is there a big premium on Veedubs on your side of the pond? I sure hope not! Lol
@@fun_ghoul no, there wasn't. It was a stick shift VW CC with the 2.0T gas engine. In less than 3 years 1 coil pack and 1 intake plenum went bad. There were also 4 problems with the water pump. Glad I sold it.
@@ccloutiutube Yep...sounds like a Veedub! Lol
I have a 2007 1.8 ivtec. It's slow but bullet proof. Overkill in engineering. So much respect for Honda.
My old Accord Type R had a H series, I really miss that car.
I had a integra Gsr that a deer took out. Ive owned many cars. I drive an abarth now but theres nothing like that b18c1.
These were the car's I was around growing up. Things have changed drastically
@@smalldenergy5139 my friend still has the Acura Type R with some spices in it. Somehow I'm more convinced how they handle than some the newest SiR Civics.
Really nice video. I had 2 of these engines, loved them, even with their flaws.
Thanks. Did yours burn or leak oil?
@@speedkar99 Yes, they both burned oil, about a liter/quart per 1000 miles. Only minor or no leaks. My 2003 Acura RSX-TypeS also burns oil and the valve-cover leaks (240k miles). I recommend 5k oil changes, not the Honda recommended 10k - it may or may not make a difference, but worth trying, IMO.
@@cernejr Honda K-Series seems to have a common issue with burning oil. Had an 07 Accord, 200k, all highway miles, very well maintained, oil changed every 5k, still started burning a quart every 500-1000 miles at 200k miles.
@@zuhayrali4202 Good to know, thank you.
@@zuhayrali4202 I mean, 200k miles is a lot. Also, mileage isn't as good an indicator of blow-by (IMO) as number of engine starts...but nobody counts that! Even so, a lot of engines have died as engine oil gets thinner and tolerances tighter. Big Auto doesn't GAF! The sooner it dies, the sooner you give them more money!
You know your stuff man Fr fr thanks. I have a eg hatch since 2009. Still in my garage
Thanks! Good luck on your build
Nailed it - 1:54
Came to the comments looking for this. hahahaha
😀
Love how that crank bolt busted loose so easily usually that’s not the case. Finally a H22 my favorite Honda motor
I cracked it free before filming but it wasn't that difficult
@@speedkar99 Aha! A stunt bolt!!!!!1!!!
@@speedkar99 Ahhhh that's why. Jesus. Had my mind blown.
I saved an h22a1 from the junkyard by slapping a new harmonic balancer, snout bolt and snout woodruff in a 285k miles 95 vtec Milano red 5spd. I paid $400. Came with harm balancer. Spent like $50 bucks in parts and redid the timing and ignition and she ran like a beaut.
THANK YOU i have a h22a jdm swapped integra and ive been looking for breakdown videos
Awesome
I really like the H series engines. I had a 96 civic with an H22 swap and I really miss that car. Great video!
If I could buy a brand new 4th gen, then I'd be a Prelude owner all over again. Vintage perfection!
I've watched this video more than once, every time makes me want to search the ads for a well-kept, unmolested VTi Prelude to buy (once again) and take good care of it
Good point. These were really well built
I have the engine that is most common for oil burning issues. It's preventable with regular oil changes and not cold thrashing it. My car has done 280,000km and needs 1l/8,000km.
All older Honda’s burn a “little” oil…just add more…change the plugs every oil change…they still last but won’t pass smog
@@mechanicundercontract7752 for this specific engine h22a7 it's a very low amount of consumption. No smog here. I keep up on the maintenance. Plugs are expensive in my country, still replaced them last year tracing down a missfire.
Wow your subscriber count is going up fast! That's expected from a great RUclips channel like yours!
Something important to note is that the h22 is only an interference engine while in vtec. Don't take my word for it check for yourself. I personally scored a 400 car after guy swore up and down it was shot. I put 50 bucks in parts at it after the harmonic balancer and crank key fell out due to UNDER TORQUED CRANK SNOUT BOLT. ran great. 285k miles BTW. Crazy how well that car was maintained
14:28 thats what makes your videos so much better than other car channels. I don't know anything about cars and parts but when i see actual visual representations of why certain models are better than others, It makes so much more sense!
Big fan of your channel. I've used it to understand my Maxima drivetrain and it's been insanely helpful
You're a big fan? Why no G3*, then? Lol
Why do the best engines have the worst oil filter locations? This brings back memories of oil pouring on me from my gsr.
Lol yea man. To change my oil requires me to put the car on the lift which is a pain. Also oil goes all over which is fun
I am looking forward to a B Series breakdown.
Just buy one and take it apart
The vtec and non vtec have different heads but are similar. b18c's have a crank girdle, while b16a-b20z do not. Intake manifolds differ quite a bit, with the b18c1 having a unique multi-runner design with an extra butterfly. The b16b and b18c5 were the type-r engines with 45' cut valves, bigger cams, and built for a higher redline. Beware if building one, the b20 (crv) engines have no baffles in the oil pan (not recommended!), an integra one fits and has them.
I think the item i would hate the most is having an oil filter at the rear under intake manifold. That being said, the oil cooler I found interesting and tubular framing for oil passages. Neat stuff
Thanks. At least the oil filter isn't under the exhaust!
Like a newer Chevy v6. Right beside the cat. And them cats are hot.
JDM H22 owner here
Pure ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️with my h22 93 lude u spanked type r integras. B18c swap delsol all day.
Nice
Good engine
Had a prelude with h22a and man did third gear tecn rock the boulevard
I love all ur vdos and I watch them all. I'm a huge h series fan. Was surprised when I saw u do this great job at explaining for noobs
thank a lot for information about f4m dupont coat at cylinder liner and when it wear out will cause engine oil consumption.
And that's the case with most of these h23
0:43 - What's interesting is that you've got that backwards because Honda is from Japan where they know the steering wheel should be on the right side of the car :)
Ohhh hahaha duh! 🤦🏻♂️ Thank you 😅
Maaaaan, my buddy with an MX-6 V6 *HATED* those 'ludes so much! Lol
Bro I miss the Mazda MX-6. Smallest v6 I ever seen in a road car, besides the Mitsubishi FTO
@@suzumr2754 Well that little six couldn't touch even a stock VTEC Prelude, from a light or on the highway.
Nice review 👍 Interesting to see the changes with modern engine design compared to these overbuilt engines to prioritize low friction, low mass, low cost, and economy.
Yeah it's interesting to see the evolution
Another informative engine tear down video...Thank you sir
Welcome
It’s a blue top not black the only h23 w vtec were the jdm blue tops that came out of the accord wagons I believe
It would have been perfect if not for the silly idea of using spray on cylinder liners which deteriorate and cause insane oil burning problems. They should have kept the cast iron sleeves of the F22.
True. They like to try different things in the name of efficiency
9:12 many (if not all, made after the mid 80s) dirt bikes engines are like that but I'm not sure it's the same thing. They call it Nikasil. It lasts a lot longer than a cast iron sleeved cylinder, has better heat transfer and are able to work with tighter tolerances but the downside is when they get damaged or wear out, you have to bore the cylinder and replate it or depending on the damage, replace the whole thing. Some say they can also produce more power because the coating is more "slippery" than a cast iron bore. I had NO IDEA something like that was being used on a regular car engine.
This was used on H-series engines and C-series engines for the NSX, and also on the F20 from the S2000. Complicates the choice for aftermarket pistons as they had to be compatible with the FRM liners. Still with OEM or properly made pistons these cylinders never went out of shape or wear out despite sustaining high rpm and high compression on some of the models. The piston rings would get worn instead.
Nice teardown! If someone were to boost one of these, what upgrade to the engine would you recommend to handle the psi?
Cylinder support system a f20b block and forged pistons and rods and keep it under 600whp on water meth injection
Depends on what block you use. Outlaw Pat mentions one of the more involved, but better builds. I think they called it the g23 back in the day (between f and h). There are a few diffrent blocks, but anything with FRM liners will need to be sleeved or low mile, hence using the f20 block, which has conventional liners iirc.
@@nobodynoone2500 I have a 95 Honda Accord w an f series block but 300k miles on it. Was planning to do H22a or H22b engine swap but not sure where to get best parts to mod the engine out properly.
Listen here now... the BP series in the miata is a trooper too!
Alright if I can find one
I have an R series engine, it's certainly not a beefy as the earlier series, but still a pretty good design.
I will tear one down next
These are beautiful engines, very responsive.
I owned a prelude with a H22A1 engine that I got for $3,000AUD a few years back when I was starting my machanic apprenticeship
When I was driving the car hard on the highway and being an absolute hoon the 3rd big end bearing seized to the crankshaft due to a blocked oil channel to the bearing and being new to the trade I didnt thing much of it and scrapped the car to a wrecker.
Been kicking myself for getting rid of the car ever since
Like your work. Waiting for the 2022 honda civic technical review for both 2.0 and 1.5T
Man I wish I can get a Honda to review
I’m really impressed mn. Love our videos.
That block is fixable with some welding especially since you found the piece
Solid narration, top job as always. Thanks, mate.
Great video as always you deserve much more subscribers
Drove the piss out of a k20a3 from 130k all the way to 205k miles.. super solid motor when stock.. I replaced it in my driveway with another one for $400 only because the valve guides started leaking a little oil
Love your channel!!! I have an s2000 f20c motor with 149k miles, piston slap on cylinder 1. Still runs and drives, I'm pulling the motor for the new one here next month. If you want it for your channel shoot me an offer. I'm sure the f20c would be a hit. It would be an honor to see you take it apart😁
Thanks, where located?
@@speedkar99 Utah!
Great video man I love h series
Had the JDM H23A in my 5th gen prelude. That thing(at least to ME) was a torque monster! Despite the hefty 3000lbs, it pulls really nice, literally pulls you back a bit when VTEC hits. Miss that car!
Honda? Torque?
@@speedkar99 lol i know it sounds ridiculous, but coming from a 92 honda hatchback dx with a 1.5L that could..to an jdm H23A swap 5th gen lude, that was plenty fast to me lol.
Amazing video as always! I would love to see you break down the Hyundai 1.8 nu engine!
I have an h22a4 that I swapped into a 94 accord and turbocharged. Hopefully going to be making around 500hp.
For all Honda 80's and 90's engines (B, D, F, H):
All the parts that should be metal ARE metal.
All the parts that should be solid state are solid state (not electronic)
All the parts that should be stand alone are stand alone (not "Big Brother" computer controlled/monitored)
No crazy plastic application
No over complicated convoluted designed to deter DIY and justify large fees
No planned obsolescence.
Yep thats why they lasted so long
I'm curious, what do you do with the engine parts after a teardown?
scrap pile to be recycled
I'm sure they don't cost him much and sure as hell won't be rebuilding them all
Sell it on ebay. I would buy it
He makes coffee tables out of them. You should check them out.
Lol, he obviously throws them away instead of selling them.
Shoppin for one of these engines now...
Those cam plates are actually oil gallies. If you flip them over youll see oiling holes for every rocker/lobe.
Thanks good to know
when VTEC Kicks in yo’ 👍🏻
Looking forward to the R-series video 🙏🙏
Soon enough
That's the 1st time I've seen a Honda crank bolt come out that easy LoL
Awesome! Thanks for the teardown. Can you do H22a4 teardown ?
Hey, thanks for the content. What do you with the parts after you disassemble the vehicle? 🤔🤔
I'll make a coffee table if it's interesting. Otherwise scrap
What an awesome tear down! Got a follow here
That engine was neglected.
A Honda engine with good care over the years even with a lot of miles will be perfect and show no wear at all. 👍
My 2001 honda prelude is getting up there in millage and yeah, they leak oil. I like to rebuild it this is helpful.
Does yours burn oil too?
@@speedkar99 I don't think it burns, if it does is not much. I think I need to change all seals, did changed vtec seals, that's where leaked most
Like speedkar never die!
Love your Vtech kick in yo😂
Great Engine... Simple and Strong!!!
Honda are the King's of internal combustion 💪
I love my Honda engines, but even I do have to say that Honda did screw the pooch on good oil cooling on some of their high power vehicles. Someone I know was having oil foaming issues while on the race track because of excessive oil temperatures. He had to rebuild his B16 because of the foaming issues after just a few track days. I recommended an external oil cooler, which he thought was dumb because he isn't turbocharging his engine, and because there was already the factory "cooler". He did listen to me, added an external cooler for his oil and suddenly his oil foaming issues were gone and the engine was eat hot lap after hot lap. Non-VTEC Honda B and H series engines do not tend to get even the small, factory oil coolers, at least in my experience.
Honda should’ve put an H series engine in the itr and ctr back in the 90s
ITR?
Only reason why is they had better blocks however i think the B16A was better...Didnt make good HP but could handle boost and lasted for years
I'd like to teardown a B series to compare
Hey we gotta get a Audi 4.2 on the channel. They are a PITA to tear down though
I've got a 3.2 V6 Audi here, from what I can see the timing belt is on the back of the engine 👀
@@speedkar99 Good ole' German engineering Lool
The problem with h22 preludes is the heders they are very close to the oil pan is a gap like a 3/8 of an inch or may be half inch ..and that h22 engine gets so hot more than an normal temperature plus valve seals ..and intake pasages gets cloged mix of oil grase...
Oh I didn't realize that since I didn't get the header
Wow. That impact gun removed that crank shaft bolt without breaking a sweat. Did you already break it free with a breaker bar and the Honda crank tool? It was a real pain to get it off my D-Series.
The d series is tough, no match for my dewalt 350lb ft breakaway torque electric impact. Make sure you get a beefy socket. Thicker, the better
An impact is gold in the junkyard. Mine is an old DeWimp clunker, and it's made me thousands of dollars.
@@youngb1ood Good to know. I just got a new Dewalt impact. Haven't had a chance to test it out.
Someone else commented and he replied that yes, he did break it free with a breaker bar before shooting the video
Usually the carbon build up is from a never replaced pcv valve sucking oil from the valve cover
Potentially
H22A good memories
Man this vid makes me miss my Prelude 😅
Preludes are great so are their motors, however the K series is just so much more versatile.
K series is better in all the ways imo. My h22a7 is great fun though
Anytime I see a Honda video, I wanna buy another Honda. Sometimes I miss my shitbox CD5.