Hello, Can you help me with the circuit diagram. I have been trying to build it, but im not so sure what the things connected in 8 and 9 of the arduino board are. also, can you do this with an arduino nano?
Hi @@fernandolagos2587, certainly you can do this with an arduino nano. just you need to find correct pinout. pin 8 & 9 are for the buttons to adjust the temperature.
Its impressive that you managed to get printable filament with a seemingly simple set up. I think one of the best things to come from this video is that it is possible to make your own home-brew filament using electronics and mechanical parts which are relatively easy to access. Thanks for sharing, looking forward to seeing what people do with this information :)
This is a great solution to recycling plastic bottles. My misses must get through 8 2lt bottles of water every month and I've been thinking about how I could turn that to my advantage, when it comes to 3D printing, I've seen many videos pop up on here on the subject, but never watched any until now. What an ingenious solution to the problem. Gotta give it a try.
I have been searching for making diy filaments and this was the simplest and most efficient i have seen. It encourages people like mo who has absolutely zero knowledge on electronics or arduino. I might actually give this one a try.
I like the way of making strips connection as I'm seeing this method for the first time and surely try it out as it seems the best I have seen so far. But the way you shaping bottles seems not the best option and I suggest to search other methods. I personally just start making filament and I shape bottles with simply hair dryer. To make inside pressure I've simply fixed valve of bike stick to the cap so the pressure is provided by bike pump. Works well, quick, safe and controlled - 1minute all process. But I feel that there is other methods even more reliable to achive our needs.
I also recommended using warm water instead of ethanol in the next video. However still indeed this method can be improved. But I couldn't figure out any other method which is easier than that. Certainly it works quite fast compared to other methods that I saw on the internet, but you need to manually check it.
But one question thought dont yoi get under extrusion because instead of the extruder pulling a ready made filament which is not that heavy. Now your extrudee has to pull heavier because it has to pull the filament from another hot end? I mean there will bi friction right? And so i imagine the printinh wont be that fast?
Amazing job, this is just what I needed, do you have an idea maybe on how to make the bottle heating process faster (which you currently do over your stove). For example if you want to prepare quickly 20-30 bottles.
Himm, and interesting requirement, But anything I would recommend would be too risky to try at home, so I dont want to give any advice. Pet bottles are first came with a pre-form plastic shapes (it is as small as a pill bottle, but thick), and bottle manufacturers put them in an oven to a certain temperature for a certain time, and blow pressurized air in a bottle mold with (around 7-10 bar ). I am not hinting you anything though.. it is just a manufacturing method that I am sharing with you ;)
Is it true for every bottle? Because In Netherlands, it is only applicable to soft drink bottles. But we dont have it (as far as I know)for vegetable oil bottles for example.
@@tigre3droyce771 Of course buying sunflower oil just for this purpose would be absurdly expensive lol. But they have a lot more material than soda and water bottles.
Could you show how to put the electronic components together. I have no experience working with electronics or soldering but I think I could use a bread board if I have the steps to follow. Thanks
Hi, I actually made another video for answering the most common questions for this project. I believe I might have answered your question as well. ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Hi , me again , i have second problem : in the circuit plan isn't connected power suply whitch's really important , so i don't know where is a place for it. And are every three IRLB 8721's "feets" connected to something ? Can you please upload photo of your functional electric circuit to gythup or prusaprinters under your project ? Thatk you very much . P.S. When you'll send me your post adress i'll send you very big chocolate 😁.
Hi, You need an Arduino board, 100 K 3950 NTC thermistor , 12-24V dc heater, irlb 8721 Mosfet. these are essential. For graphical interface, an lcd, and if you would like to use 3d printer's power supply, or an old laptop power supply like I did, a buck converter is necessary. I put all relevant parts under the description.
I've tried this before but the material doesn't feed. what temperature do you use? i think i need to reshape my heating block because I drilled the hole to deep and it doesn't go through the nozzle.
it's rather high: 253 degree Celsius. Also keep in mind the PET strap thickness. if you cut mineral water straps 5 mm, then it becomes hollow, and material does not feed. (it should be 7 mins for the mineral water straps as I put in video)
@@makersfunduck when I first tried this project I ran it off of my old 3d printer I salvaged the parts from. it doesn't reach a high enough temp so I could run it off a power supply but all I have besides the 3d printer power supply is a 12v 10A max lab power supply. would that be enough? or should I try to get the 3d printer power supply to work if I do what you did and use a mosfet and Arduino instead of using the 3d printer board?
Hello @Jozsef Ienciu, I have also failed quite a few times after finding what works, and what does not. But the trick is making 2-3 mm sized holes, and cutting the other strip in a way that it tightly fits (you should be able to fit it with a pliers) . also bending the remaining strip is important, because it welds the strip from both sides. And first holed size should enter the nozzle and 2. the new strip. Please check the video @7:25. Also 3 holes are enough.I dont like uploading repetitive content, but I can do a new video if other people also fails. Please let me know if these tips helps. Take care.
Hey! My name is Chelsea. I'm going to be recreating one of these machines for my senior capstone project. Is there an email I can contact you by? I'd love to know your input. Thank you!
How can your seemingly stock Ender 3 reach 270C with a Bowden setup? I was kinda intrigued and wanted to try but I heard you shouldn't go higher than 240C on Bowden.
I have used Cura Ultimaker slicer software for the temperature settings. You can set specific value in there. Also, fans are working @ 50 percent while printing (default PETG settings), so feeder tubes are not affected. I checked the temp. I am using this setup for a while, and it didn't create any issues for me. If you are worried about that, you can use default PETG settings without any modifications. But I like the surface quality when I print @ 270C.
@@makersfunduck I knew how to set it up in software, I just wondered how your Bowden didn't break down because, allegedly, it's supposed to at around 240C. I'll read up a bit now, thanks
@@GoTVm_ If he has an all metal hot end then the Bowden is back far enough that it wont be in the hot zone. Or hes jsut playing it fast and loose and hoping for the best. I cant see his hot end but I know set ups like that exist as drop in components for the ender 3.
Hi @goTVm & @Marrett Gilfus, After seeing your comments, I checked the hot end temperature levels while recording my latest video. You can watch it with this link as well BTW :) ruclips.net/video/QAf5GFs8Ytk/видео.html While printing, maximum temperature I saw on the reading was 38 degrees C. which happened during printing initial 3 layers.after the first 3 layers, it never went above 35 degrees. To be sure, I checked it with PLA @240C. Temperature while printing PLA is around 35 degrees during the initial layers, and it drops to 30 degrees. I understand your valid concerns. However, the tube is made out of PTFE, and the glass temperature of the PTFE is around 115C. In my opinion it is quite safe to use this settings. But it is safe to follow 100% fan speed as mentioned did in the video. If you still feel uncomfortable, you can always use default PETG profile of course. it prints fine. Thanks for the lovely discussion.
Thanks for this video. I have had a plastic bottle cutter that I 3D printed for a long time but never got it to work. Heating the bottle over the stove seems to be the trick. I only used a bit of water inside and held it pretty high over the flame being overly cautious but it still didn't take very long. I'm still experimenting to see if it is worth buying the parts to make actual filament but your method looks like the easiest I have seen yet. Subscribed!
Not sure if mentioned what i did was use a bicycle tubeless stem drilled a hole on top of cap fit it on and screw it tight under cap and then used bike air pump to pump air in bottle. Nothing will come out if it pops.
Hi, 5 mm for thick (like cola bottles,) and 7 mm for mineral or other bottles. you can find relevant spacers in the description if you need them. In the code, it is set to 253 C. You can adjust it with the buttons if you need it.
@@Evilslayer73 then it might be tolerance issue on the sensor. you can try to reduce it significantly, and increase it step by step. then re-upload your code with the optimized temp.
I've tried drilling 3 holes and slotting the ends of the strips but it gets stuck at the hotblock and pulls apart... is there a certain trick to it ? Smaller holes? Or thinner pointed strip that goes thru the slots ? It broke off 2x so I'm not getting the hang of it .. any tips please ? 🙏
Indeed there is a trick to it. simply 2 strips needs to pass through together, and basically material which is flowing at the same rate. Once you figure it out, it works flawlessly. You can check the tips and tricks for this below ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Braaaa come on I thought it was posible and I also have a broken ender pro3 that I was thinking to modify but this is gonna be the best update that I can to to my printer thank u for ur video 10 out of 10
could you make a video on the EE side of this project? I have ordered everything but I am struggling putting it together. I also recieved an lcd from a kit, but I don't have that other middle component that you have connected to it.. Is there a workaround? Very new to this. Thanks.
Hello Jon, I made a tips & tricks video which answers most of the questions (including electric part.) I think you might consider it helpful. ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html Also you can also probably use the LCD that you have. you just need to change variables and define codes. Before starting this project, just search "arduino 16x2 lcd" in google, and try to use it. afterwards you just need to change 3 lines in the filament makers code. Have fun! :)
Thank you for sharing. This doesn't look like a process you will be saving money. All this hassle and waisted time just to save $20 for the spool of already made fillament. Not worth!
Yeah, that is true, however sometimes I still find this more convenient. because I already did cut 2 spoons of bottles one go, I can make also it any color that I want, and I dont need to wait for a few days for a new color. thanks for sharing your opinion. ruclips.net/video/QAf5GFs8Ytk/видео.html
Hi Kajn, I agree that it would be safer, and I even tried using a pump to pressurize the bottles. If you can manage to do it, I think it would be a preferred approach. However it was pretty hard for me to make the same thickness on the bottle. Nowadays I only use water, and it provides much uniform thickness across the bottle.
It's so much easier and faster to get yourself a couple tire valve stems from a car parts store and drill a hole big enough in the bottle lid for the valve stem to get a good seal, put it back on the bottle and then pressurize the bottle with a bicycle pump and then stick the valve stem still attached and chuck it up in a cordless drill and hold it over your stove.
Hello @soham jagtap, I put all necessary parts under the description if you need others as well. And, I am putting the nozzle link for you :) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9iz2o1
I wish you went a little more in depth on the electronics part but the rest the video was pretty good. It’s been hard to find videos on RUclips on this topic that are coherent that actually explain stuff really well like you.
I’ve seen other people try to use this kind of filament in their Ender 3 printers, and they say that the ender 3 doesn’t get hot enough to melt pet plastic. Did you mod your 3D printer? Or what model 3d printer is this?
Hi @rachinc, First I did not modify it. However after doing a bit of research, I replaced stock hot end with all metal hotend just to be on the safe side.
@@makersfunduck after seeing this guy say his Creality Ender 3 wasnt hot enough to print PET filament, i told myself that I shouldnt get that 3d printer. ruclips.net/video/M-d1Gmwq_O0/видео.htmlsi=M0dWYTCw9YpDfp9X&t=310 but it sounds like you made it work, with a different hot end. Swiss?
Hello maker's Fun Duck thank you for sharing your video I'm 99.9% there but I'm getting a different reading on my lcd right at the start of the video your lcd displays as Maker's Fun Duck ST253.0 ST275.9 My displays as Maker's Fun Duck Sat253.0 ST24.9ish My resister colours are brown black black orange brown over a blue body slightly different but still a 100k resister also after reading in your comments to see if anyone else was having the same problem I read about the hot end wiring to the MOSFET witch has thrown me I'm is wired up as from the hot end both wires to the middle pin of the MOSFET is this correct if you help me please and she'd some light into were I'm going wrong it would be fantastic cheers again
Can you please just upload a picture of your wiring IRL? Your diagram is really misleading. I posted it on reddit and nobody can agree on what going on in it. The power source and buck converter aren't even in it.
Hello Jon, I think I understand your confusion. The software that I used did not have a buck converter, and I assumed it would be straightforward (so it is not in the circuit diagram). The LED in the circuit diagram is the heating element. (where it says 12 V). also upper side of the breadboard rail is 5 volt and it is how arduino is powered. You have countless options to provide 5 volts. What I did was, using a buck convertor from 12V power supply, and adjusting it to 5 volts.also if this is your first project, I recommend you to use a multimeter and verify 5v before connecting it to arduino. that would prevent your arduino from frying. Was this where you stuck? Good luck!
Hi, is it possible to use other mosfet to control de hotend? If so, how do I search for one? I want to try this project and the mosfet is the only thing I don't have and searching online looks like buying from china is the only option for me but that will take a while time to arrive :/
Is it fine for a stock ender 3 to print at such high tempreature? Because i heard that the ptfe tube won't last long if u do so. So have u run into any of these problem yet because i wanna give it a go
Hey, for safety just add a SMALL bit of water (1 tsp.) put it in the freezer with the lid on but not sealed for about 30 min. to 1 hr. immediately tighten the lid as you remove it and put it on the counter to warm up to room temp. Then start heating it. Be safe my friend.
@@makersfunduck yes I noticed this phenomenon when i put an empty bottle sealed in my truck on a cold night. I came back to find that the next day it was warm and hard as a rock. just a little heating would pressurize it more.
Thank you for the video. I have a question that do you use full metal throat or throat with the teflon isolation to print the recycled pet filament? Because, AFAIK, the teflon material can not resist up to 270 celcius.
Hello Serkan, I used full metal throat. Also if you are interested, I created tips&tricks video for troubleshooting: ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Hello @Nico Said, Yes you can use Arduino uno. I released a new video and make sure to watch that one as well if you are interested in some tips & tricks ;) ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
It might be helpful especially for the printers that can withstand higher nozzle temperatures. But with Ender-3, I dont want to go above the specs, and that's why my print speed is a little slow, and filament finds time to cool down naturally.
@@makersfunduck i was meaning after the first nozzle taking the raw material to 1.75 most setups have a small pc fan after it. but whatever works for you. good build though
@@Evilslayer73 in the video, I used an old laptop power supply. however 3d printer power supply is perfectly capable off providing enough power for filament making and 3d printing at the same time.
They are quite common. Take a look at this link for example: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkCdpaT I believe you can find one in one of local hardware stores as well.
Love the video and i got the whole set up together and the LCD is working but i don’t know why the extruder nozzle is not heating up, i have the one red cable connected to the center pin of the mosfet and the other connected to ground. But nothing is happening
How do you get a square strip of plastic to go through a round hole consistantly? Sounds like a good way to gun up your printer. Good luck with all that.🙄😏😐
Everything was so good until the alcohol advice, this is so so soooo bad. like super bad... its just a matter of time until you'll make a bomb... dont do that, it isn't worth it.
Don't forget to check out tips&tricks for this project here:
ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Hello, Can you help me with the circuit diagram. I have been trying to build it, but im not so sure what the things connected in 8 and 9 of the arduino board are. also, can you do this with an arduino nano?
Hi @@fernandolagos2587, certainly you can do this with an arduino nano. just you need to find correct pinout. pin 8 & 9 are for the buttons to adjust the temperature.
Its impressive that you managed to get printable filament with a seemingly simple set up. I think one of the best things to come from this video is that it is possible to make your own home-brew filament using electronics and mechanical parts which are relatively easy to access. Thanks for sharing, looking forward to seeing what people do with this information :)
I also look forward to it :)
Isn't that the whole point of the video?
This is a great solution to recycling plastic bottles. My misses must get through 8 2lt bottles of water every month and I've been thinking about how I could turn that to my advantage, when it comes to 3D printing, I've seen many videos pop up on here on the subject, but never watched any until now. What an ingenious solution to the problem. Gotta give it a try.
glad that you enjoyed it :)
I don't even own a printer, and this was interesting. What a cool way to recycle.
I have been searching for making diy filaments and this was the simplest and most efficient i have seen. It encourages people like mo who has absolutely zero knowledge on electronics or arduino. I might actually give this one a try.
looking forward to your results :)
I like the way of making strips connection as I'm seeing this method for the first time and surely try it out as it seems the best I have seen so far. But the way you shaping bottles seems not the best option and I suggest to search other methods. I personally just start making filament and I shape bottles with simply hair dryer. To make inside pressure I've simply fixed valve of bike stick to the cap so the pressure is provided by bike pump. Works well, quick, safe and controlled - 1minute all process. But I feel that there is other methods even more reliable to achive our needs.
I also recommended using warm water instead of ethanol in the next video. However still indeed this method can be improved. But I couldn't figure out any other method which is easier than that. Certainly it works quite fast compared to other methods that I saw on the internet, but you need to manually check it.
But one question thought dont yoi get under extrusion because instead of the extruder pulling a ready made filament which is not that heavy. Now your extrudee has to pull heavier because it has to pull the filament from another hot end? I mean there will bi friction right? And so i imagine the printinh wont be that fast?
You might be right, but stock step motor was powerful enough to perform same speed.
This is really what i need for my project. Thank you for your guide.
Glad to hear that!
where can i buy the lowest priced PLA PELLETS.?... THANKS FOR ANY HELP
Amazing job, this is just what I needed, do you have an idea maybe on how to make the bottle heating process faster (which you currently do over your stove). For example if you want to prepare quickly 20-30 bottles.
Himm, and interesting requirement, But anything I would recommend would be too risky to try at home, so I dont want to give any advice. Pet bottles are first came with a pre-form plastic shapes (it is as small as a pill bottle, but thick), and bottle manufacturers put them in an oven to a certain temperature for a certain time, and blow pressurized air in a bottle mold with (around 7-10 bar ). I am not hinting you anything though.. it is just a manufacturing method that I am sharing with you ;)
Also I recommend my tips&tricks video before starting your build. here--> ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Hello, thank's for this video. Just could you indicate to me what is the R1 resistor in sketch. Is the value of the thermistor ? Thank's
Hello @Bruno JACQUET. it is 100 kΩ thermistor and resistor is also 100kkΩ ±1%
I was thinking to do this project, but here in Germany we have a 0.25€/deposit fee for every pet bottle. 1kg would cost 12€, energy cost excluded
Is it true for every bottle? Because In Netherlands, it is only applicable to soft drink bottles. But we dont have it (as far as I know)for vegetable oil bottles for example.
@@makersfunduck , only for soda and water. Oil bottle not. But with 5€/L sunflower oil...?
@@tigre3droyce771 Of course buying sunflower oil just for this purpose would be absurdly expensive lol. But they have a lot more material than soda and water bottles.
Could you show how to put the electronic components together. I have no experience working with electronics or soldering but I think I could use a bread board if I have the steps to follow. Thanks
Hi,
I actually made another video for answering the most common questions for this project. I believe I might have answered your question as well.
ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Awesome idea!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi , me again , i have second problem : in the circuit plan isn't connected power suply whitch's really important , so i don't know where is a place for it. And are every three IRLB 8721's "feets" connected to something ? Can you please upload photo of your functional electric circuit to gythup or prusaprinters under your project ?
Thatk you very much .
P.S. When you'll send me your post adress i'll send you very big chocolate 😁.
Hi, it is already in the description. Check the Github link.
Hey I’m about to build this did you end up finishing
hi , what electric parts i will need ?
@Maker's Fun Duck
Hi,
You need an Arduino board, 100 K 3950 NTC thermistor , 12-24V dc heater, irlb 8721 Mosfet. these are essential. For graphical interface, an lcd, and if you would like to use 3d printer's power supply, or an old laptop power supply like I did, a buck converter is necessary. I put all relevant parts under the description.
I've tried this before but the material doesn't feed. what temperature do you use? i think i need to reshape my heating block because I drilled the hole to deep and it doesn't go through the nozzle.
it's rather high: 253 degree Celsius. Also keep in mind the PET strap thickness. if you cut mineral water straps 5 mm, then it becomes hollow, and material does not feed. (it should be 7 mins for the mineral water straps as I put in video)
@@makersfunduck when I first tried this project I ran it off of my old 3d printer I salvaged the parts from. it doesn't reach a high enough temp so I could run it off a power supply but all I have besides the 3d printer power supply is a 12v 10A max lab power supply. would that be enough? or should I try to get the 3d printer power supply to work if I do what you did and use a mosfet and Arduino instead of using the 3d printer board?
@@levistrnad2965 I have used an old laptop charger and I think 3d printer power supply should be more than enough to power this.
Hello. Can you make a sort video how you join the filament i try few times but everytime broke. Thanks.
Hello @Jozsef Ienciu, I have also failed quite a few times after finding what works, and what does not. But the trick is making 2-3 mm sized holes, and cutting the other strip in a way that it tightly fits (you should be able to fit it with a pliers) . also bending the remaining strip is important, because it welds the strip from both sides. And first holed size should enter the nozzle and 2. the new strip. Please check the video @7:25. Also 3 holes are enough.I dont like uploading repetitive content, but I can do a new video if other people also fails. Please let me know if these tips helps.
Take care.
Thanks i will try a few times, but as you see not many people watch this kind of videos, hope many will subscribe.
Hey! My name is Chelsea. I'm going to be recreating one of these machines for my senior capstone project. Is there an email I can contact you by? I'd love to know your input. Thank you!
Can you make a video on how to build a DIY filament machine where I could dump in recycled scraps of plastic and it’ll convert it to filament for me
How can your seemingly stock Ender 3 reach 270C with a Bowden setup? I was kinda intrigued and wanted to try but I heard you shouldn't go higher than 240C on Bowden.
I have used Cura Ultimaker slicer software for the temperature settings. You can set specific value in there. Also, fans are working @ 50 percent while printing (default PETG settings), so feeder tubes are not affected. I checked the temp. I am using this setup for a while, and it didn't create any issues for me. If you are worried about that, you can use default PETG settings without any modifications. But I like the surface quality when I print @ 270C.
@@makersfunduck I knew how to set it up in software, I just wondered how your Bowden didn't break down because, allegedly, it's supposed to at around 240C. I'll read up a bit now, thanks
@@GoTVm_ If he has an all metal hot end then the Bowden is back far enough that it wont be in the hot zone. Or hes jsut playing it fast and loose and hoping for the best. I cant see his hot end but I know set ups like that exist as drop in components for the ender 3.
@@Kiever_Sloane it looked like the normal red hotend, I don't think it's all metal.
Hi @goTVm & @Marrett Gilfus,
After seeing your comments, I checked the hot end temperature levels while recording my latest video.
You can watch it with this link as well BTW :)
ruclips.net/video/QAf5GFs8Ytk/видео.html
While printing, maximum temperature I saw on the reading was 38 degrees C. which happened during printing initial 3 layers.after the first 3 layers, it never went above 35 degrees.
To be sure, I checked it with PLA @240C. Temperature while printing PLA is around 35 degrees during the initial layers, and it drops to 30 degrees. I understand your valid concerns. However, the tube is made out of PTFE, and the glass temperature of the PTFE is around 115C. In my opinion it is quite safe to use this settings. But it is safe to follow 100% fan speed as mentioned did in the video.
If you still feel uncomfortable, you can always use default PETG profile of course. it prints fine.
Thanks for the lovely discussion.
Thanks for this video. I have had a plastic bottle cutter that I 3D printed for a long time but never got it to work. Heating the bottle over the stove seems to be the trick. I only used a bit of water inside and held it pretty high over the flame being overly cautious but it still didn't take very long. I'm still experimenting to see if it is worth buying the parts to make actual filament but your method looks like the easiest I have seen yet. Subscribed!
Glad I could help
Not sure if mentioned what i did was use a bicycle tubeless stem drilled a hole on top of cap fit it on and screw it tight under cap and then used bike air pump to pump air in bottle. Nothing will come out if it pops.
which size is the strip of bottle? and which temperature you have set up the hot end?
Hi,
5 mm for thick (like cola bottles,) and 7 mm for mineral or other bottles. you can find relevant spacers in the description if you need them. In the code, it is set to 253 C. You can adjust it with the buttons if you need it.
@@makersfunduck i try a pepsi bottle but it melt too fast
@@Evilslayer73 then it might be tolerance issue on the sensor. you can try to reduce it significantly, and increase it step by step. then re-upload your code with the optimized temp.
@@makersfunduck i use a w1209 maybe it my problem
Time to make a life size version of The Rock's head out of water bottles
lol
Hi , i have every parts and small question : where is a place (on electric circuit ) for thermistor and heater ? Thank you a lot
Hi,
You can check 6:13 in video, or the github page in the description
Hi !! what is the flow rate you print with the filament??
Hi, In Cura, I have selected regular PETG profiling, and set the flow rate to %150 for all layers.
I've tried drilling 3 holes and slotting the ends of the strips but it gets stuck at the hotblock and pulls apart... is there a certain trick to it ? Smaller holes? Or thinner pointed strip that goes thru the slots ? It broke off 2x so I'm not getting the hang of it .. any tips please ? 🙏
Indeed there is a trick to it. simply 2 strips needs to pass through together, and basically material which is flowing at the same rate. Once you figure it out, it works flawlessly. You can check the tips and tricks for this below
ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
would it be possible to mix colours from different bottles
Indeed you can do that. orrr watch this video to make any color you want :)
ruclips.net/video/QAf5GFs8Ytk/видео.html
Braaaa come on I thought it was posible and I also have a broken ender pro3 that I was thinking to modify but this is gonna be the best update that I can to to my printer thank u for ur video 10 out of 10
Thanks mate.
could you make a video on the EE side of this project? I have ordered everything but I am struggling putting it together. I also recieved an lcd from a kit, but I don't have that other middle component that you have connected to it.. Is there a workaround? Very new to this. Thanks.
Hello Jon, I made a tips & tricks video which answers most of the questions (including electric part.) I think you might consider it helpful. ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Also you can also probably use the LCD that you have. you just need to change variables and define codes. Before starting this project, just search "arduino 16x2 lcd" in google, and try to use it. afterwards you just need to change 3 lines in the filament makers code.
Have fun! :)
Thank you for sharing. This doesn't look like a process you will be saving money. All this hassle and waisted time just to save $20 for the spool of already made fillament. Not worth!
Yeah, that is true, however sometimes I still find this more convenient. because I already did cut 2 spoons of bottles one go, I can make also it any color that I want, and I dont need to wait for a few days for a new color.
thanks for sharing your opinion.
ruclips.net/video/QAf5GFs8Ytk/видео.html
Hi I recommend to try what I saw on cap Put the ventylek on the bike to close And pressurize with a pump it will be 100% Safer
Hi Kajn, I agree that it would be safer, and I even tried using a pump to pressurize the bottles. If you can manage to do it, I think it would be a preferred approach. However it was pretty hard for me to make the same thickness on the bottle. Nowadays I only use water, and it provides much uniform thickness across the bottle.
Is it possible to use 8x2 LCD? I'm newbie with arduino, will it be hard to change program?
Hi, if the LCD has a Hitachi driver, then you can re-use the same code without any modification.
It's so much easier and faster to get yourself a couple tire valve stems from a car parts store and drill a hole big enough in the bottle lid for the valve stem to get a good seal, put it back on the bottle and then pressurize the bottle with a bicycle pump and then stick the valve stem still attached and chuck it up in a cordless drill and hold it over your stove.
It sounds like a viable solution. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing all the files.
can i use a touch screen for that and how do i code it
you can, but why do you even need a touch screen? once you set it right, it is good to go, and no adjustment is necessary.
I will be doing this thanx
Have fun :)
Plz send link of nozal
Hello @soham jagtap, I put all necessary parts under the description if you need others as well. And, I am putting the nozzle link for you :)
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9iz2o1
I wish you went a little more in depth on the electronics part but the rest the video was pretty good. It’s been hard to find videos on RUclips on this topic that are coherent that actually explain stuff really well like you.
I’ve seen other people try to use this kind of filament in their Ender 3 printers, and they say that the ender 3 doesn’t get hot enough to melt pet plastic. Did you mod your 3D printer? Or what model 3d printer is this?
Hi @rachinc, First I did not modify it. However after doing a bit of research, I replaced stock hot end with all metal hotend just to be on the safe side.
@@makersfunduck after seeing this guy say his Creality Ender 3 wasnt hot enough to print PET filament, i told myself that I shouldnt get that 3d printer. ruclips.net/video/M-d1Gmwq_O0/видео.htmlsi=M0dWYTCw9YpDfp9X&t=310 but it sounds like you made it work, with a different hot end. Swiss?
It's a STRAW Making machine 😅
well technically you are not wrong :) filaments are straws
Hello maker's Fun Duck thank you for sharing your video I'm 99.9% there but I'm getting a different reading on my lcd right at the start of the video your lcd displays as
Maker's Fun Duck
ST253.0 ST275.9
My displays as
Maker's Fun Duck
Sat253.0 ST24.9ish
My resister colours are brown black black orange brown over a blue body slightly different but still a 100k resister also after reading in your comments to see if anyone else was having the same problem I read about the hot end wiring to the MOSFET witch has thrown me I'm is wired up as from the hot end both wires to the middle pin of the MOSFET is this correct if you help me please and she'd some light into were I'm going wrong it would be fantastic cheers again
what do you see?
How to make low budget printer at home
They are pretty low priced I think nowadays. And even the entry segment ones give nice results
Can you please just upload a picture of your wiring IRL? Your diagram is really misleading. I posted it on reddit and nobody can agree on what going on in it. The power source and buck converter aren't even in it.
Hello Jon, I think I understand your confusion. The software that I used did not have a buck converter, and I assumed it would be straightforward (so it is not in the circuit diagram). The LED in the circuit diagram is the heating element. (where it says 12 V). also upper side of the breadboard rail is 5 volt and it is how arduino is powered. You have countless options to provide 5 volts. What I did was, using a buck convertor from 12V power supply, and adjusting it to 5 volts.also if this is your first project, I recommend you to use a multimeter and verify 5v before connecting it to arduino. that would prevent your arduino from frying. Was this where you stuck? Good luck!
Waiting good news from you :) Keep me posted on your progress.
@@makersfunduck it's coming along. It works but I need a stronger power supply for my heating element then it should get hot enough. Thanks
Hi, is it possible to use other mosfet to control de hotend? If so, how do I search for one? I want to try this project and the mosfet is the only thing I don't have and searching online looks like buying from china is the only option for me but that will take a while time to arrive :/
Sure. You only need to get one with the similar specs. or a better one.
Is it fine for a stock ender 3 to print at such high tempreature? Because i heard that the ptfe tube won't last long if u do so. So have u run into any of these problem yet because i wanna give it a go
you can print with default petg settings as well
Very helpful for the most part, do you have a video of how you set up and wired all the electronics though?
I have one for common problems, whicj might help. ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
Hey, for safety just add a SMALL bit of water (1 tsp.) put it in the freezer with the lid on but not sealed for about 30 min. to 1 hr. immediately tighten the lid as you remove it and put it on the counter to warm up to room temp. Then start heating it. Be safe my friend.
Thanks for the tip :)
@@makersfunduck yes I noticed this phenomenon when i put an empty bottle sealed in my truck on a cold night. I came back to find that the next day it was warm and hard as a rock. just a little heating would pressurize it more.
Thank you for the video. I have a question that do you use full metal throat or throat with the teflon isolation to print the recycled pet filament? Because, AFAIK, the teflon material can not resist up to 270 celcius.
Hello Serkan,
I used full metal throat. Also if you are interested, I created tips&tricks video for troubleshooting: ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
@@makersfunduck thank you. I'll check it too.
@maker's fun duck what are the values of resistor and the two capacitors you used?
Hi,
10 kΩ ±5% & there are no capacitors. They are buttons.
Hello!! it's a very good video. one question, is it ok if i use an arduino uno, the lcd, the thermistor, the hotend and a mosfet?
Hello @Nico Said, Yes you can use Arduino uno. I released a new video and make sure to watch that one as well if you are interested in some tips & tricks ;) ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html
should consider placing a small pc fan directly after the nozzle. good work
It might be helpful especially for the printers that can withstand higher nozzle temperatures. But with Ender-3, I dont want to go above the specs, and that's why my print speed is a little slow, and filament finds time to cool down naturally.
@@makersfunduck i was meaning after the first nozzle taking the raw material to 1.75 most setups have a small pc fan after it. but whatever works for you. good build though
Free ??
except electricity of course :)
another question why the buck converter??
buck converter is for arduino board to work. it reduces voltage efficiently to 5 v. otherwise your Arduino board will fry.
@@makersfunduck Ok so you pull the current from the 3d printer power supply or an independant power supply?
@@Evilslayer73 in the video, I used an old laptop power supply. however 3d printer power supply is perfectly capable off providing enough power for filament making and 3d printing at the same time.
Where did you get the 1.74 drill bit from, can a 1.5 drill bit also work?
I used 1,8 mm drilling bit
They are quite common. Take a look at this link for example: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkCdpaT
I believe you can find one in one of local hardware stores as well.
@@makersfunduck Thx! out of curiosity the nozzle you used is 0.4mm right?
@@ads3q yep
@@makersfunduck Thank you! Also, last question, but what do you mean by five mm spacer? Does this mean spacer space between board and cutter?
Love the video and i got the whole set up together and the LCD is working but i don’t know why the extruder nozzle is not heating up, i have the one red cable connected to the center pin of the mosfet and the other connected to ground. But nothing is happening
maybe you did not done the connections properly.
How do you get a square strip of plastic to go through a round hole consistantly?
Sounds like a good way to gun up your printer. Good luck with all that.🙄😏😐
I made a cutter with spacers and a knife. I also shared spacer 3d files in case you want to print it.
Is there a pilot light in that stove? You almost became a YT statistic. I don't know if you had any success after that because I shut it off.
Yeah, it worked like a regular 3d filament. But I have warned you in the video about not trying that in your home :) Just use water for your sake.
Everything was so good until the alcohol advice, this is so so soooo bad. like super bad... its just a matter of time until you'll make a bomb... dont do that, it isn't worth it.
you are totally right. thats why I dont recommend it, and told it in the video many times. and I recommend using water instead.
Hi i see nobody is interested in this
Thanks for your idea. If I can find time from other projects, I might actually make a video about your ides :)
@@makersfunduck Thank you
@@jozsefienciu2325 I made a video and tried to show a bit more detailed. ruclips.net/video/xNtrQQ42WG4/видео.html