Great work!!! If at first you don't succeed... Modified bikes are always a joy to figure out. I agree with you on the oil line screen. I doubt it was ever taken out of the frame. It's something most people miss. Rule #1...Service Manual.
I bought a 1987 XR600 from the original owner about 4 years ago. He had it stored in his garage under cover since 1996. He could not get it to start and sold it to me for cheap. I took the carbs out and went though them and found someone had swapped the bowls when putting them back on and the enrichment circuit was blocked off so it would not start. While I had them out I rebuilt both with Honda carb kits. Here is my setup: 128 primary 48 idle 125 secondary Pri needle - E2348D 4th groove from top Sec needle - E2049D 2nd groove from top I couldn’t tell from your video but it looked like your secondary carb is opening too soon. The service manual says it should start to open around 1/3 opening of the primary. Then the progressive linkage allows it to reach fully open at the same time as the primary. My bike runs perfect. Zero bog, zero hesitation. The dual carbs are amazing when they are set up right. I have stock air filter, stock engine, stock header, but FMF Quiet Core slip on muffler. I see yours has HRC kit so I’m not sure what mods that includes. The cold start up procedure for me results in 1 kick start every time whether it’s 40 degrees outside or 100. Enrichment lever full up, I turn the idle speed screw clockwise about 2 turns. Open the throttle fully, pull in decompression and kick through fast 8 times. I get it on compression and then use decompression lever to just get to TDC then jump on it. If it doesn’t start for some reason, I open throttle fully, hold decomp, and kick through 8 times again before trying to start. I’ve never had any issue starting it.
I can’t speak for early HRC kits but 90-up 628 power up kits came with a jet and needle kit with instructions in main kit manual. It also came with shims to move the needle 1/2 a position. My 92 changed needles and went from like a #152 main to a #165. An over size header required shimming the needle up a 1/2 notch and #168 main. I run White Bros exhaust with 12 discs at sea level and 16-18 discs for racing depending on temps. Just for perspective.
Good to know! Yeah this kit came with shims too but I luckily didn’t need them. I’ll be sure to tell the owner in case any adjustments are made down the road requiring more tinkering with the carbs.
Dang, you are playing chess with this bike when everyone else is going to play checkers with them. I thought oil in frame was reserved for old Triumph bikes and some mopeds. New info to me. Way to go on this fix. Runs like a top.
Thanks buddy. I think Yamaha also used the dry sump setup on some of their XT models but I might be mistaken. Good for cooling and it allows them to make smaller bottom ends too.
Cool generation! Ugghhh, they spray painted them, what a chucklehead. I had an 85 XL600. Carbs werent too finicky, but definitely a task made more complicated then needed with the set up. Yamaha liked em too, because they went dual carbs on their XTs.
@@Garage2Trail Yeah that exhaust definitely will need to fatten up the secondary side alot. Id of probably thrown a 145 main and ripped it to check for richness. But great job. Yeah those were great years in bikes and look amazing. Love the looks of the 80s machines. It seemed all manufacturers were continuously making changes every year or two, especially mx bikes. The 80s were my teen years with mainly CRs and definitely have a soft spot for me. Great job on that build (goldies look amazing).
Well done on getting it running right 👍. Nice looking bike. One thing i usually do when i change the oil normally in the garage is I'll drain it but then put the bottom main drain plug back in finger tight and kick it over with stop in around 8 times then release plug and heaps more oil comes out, i then repeat that procedure 2 more times you'd be surprised how much more oill comes out. By the time you do it three times you've got most out. It then gives it a proper oil change i find.
The other mod I did to my 87 was to replace that flex line on the bottom of the frame reservoir screen bolt to the engine. Mine looked like it almost had a kink in it and made me feel like the oil flow was restricted through it. I used a stock line from the 650L and it bolted right up. The bend section on the 650L line is steel.
I did as much research on these dual carb 600’s as I could. An interesting item I found was flat track racers preferred these dual carb heads because they flow more air in stock form than the single carb heads which gave higher top speeds on the straightaways. If you think about it, (2) 28mm carbs at full open is 56mm. I believe the single carb XR600 is a 39mm. Quite a bit more flow stock. Once these flat track racers starting hand porting, higher compression, better valve job, these things would make big power.
Sounds like it is running good now. I started riding XR's back in the late 1980's on a 1986 XR600R then I had a 1988, 1997, and now a 1999 and The Dual Carburetors on the 1986 seemed to have a little better throttle response and never had any problems with them.
Yes the carb bowl without cap on bottom is xl600 bowl, id find another xr600 bowl to be able to change main jets with out pulling carbs if you want to play around somemore
Thanks! The airbox snorkel was removed and running a UNI. Much more flow over stock. Headers are bigger too. The carbs did need richened up quite a bit to handle the extra air flow.
Not watched till end yet - end can missing nut and bolt. Edit - shared seat bolt? If you want to keep stock needle profile but want to go richer, you can use needle shims to raise 1/2 or 1 clip steps. S***! That frame screen has been in there a long time - got red paint, so frame repainted without removing it ....... good job you are thorough! Good work sir!
Did that in the first video. I think the video picks up acoustics that make it sound like it’s ticking. It always threw me off when I first started recording for the channel thinking I did something wrong lol
Now put a 145 main jet in it and see if it likes it or not,you won't know what it likes until you fine tune it,If its too rich it will bogg when you crack the throttle open and then go back down a size
On my TT600 l do the same trick with the manifold to make removal easier. Then l rig up a woodworking trestle with a flat piece of wood clamped to the top to make a bench. This means l can work close beside the bike and work on the carbs without messing with the cables. Sometimes on bikes you can fiddle with the choke while riding(carefully😁) to ascertain if richening helps the engine. Changes are best made one carb at a time, tedious but methodical.
Best bike Honda made!
It just goes to show a 'rebuild' requires careful assembly and optimising especially a modified one.
Well persevered sir.
That strainer!
You got that right! Thanks you! 👍
Great work!!! If at first you don't succeed... Modified bikes are always a joy to figure out. I agree with you on the oil line screen. I doubt it was ever taken out of the frame. It's something most people miss. Rule #1...Service Manual.
Thank you!
Right about the screen, many XR owners don't inspect it, it even can cause engine damage!
Well done With the carbs What a beast now 👏
Thanks Andy! She a strong runner!
Btw, thanks for all the entertainment you've given us this year.
Merry Christmas.
Thank you for always tuning in and offering pointers and tips. I really appreciate that. Merry Christmas to you too!
I bought a 1987 XR600 from the original owner about 4 years ago. He had it stored in his garage under cover since 1996. He could not get it to start and sold it to me for cheap. I took the carbs out and went though them and found someone had swapped the bowls when putting them back on and the enrichment circuit was blocked off so it would not start. While I had them out I rebuilt both with Honda carb kits.
Here is my setup:
128 primary
48 idle
125 secondary
Pri needle - E2348D 4th groove from top
Sec needle - E2049D 2nd groove from top
I couldn’t tell from your video but it looked like your secondary carb is opening too soon. The service manual says it should start to open around 1/3 opening of the primary. Then the progressive linkage allows it to reach fully open at the same time as the primary.
My bike runs perfect. Zero bog, zero hesitation. The dual carbs are amazing when they are set up right.
I have stock air filter, stock engine, stock header, but FMF Quiet Core slip on muffler. I see yours has HRC kit so I’m not sure what mods that includes.
The cold start up procedure for me results in 1 kick start every time whether it’s 40 degrees outside or 100. Enrichment lever full up, I turn the idle speed screw clockwise about 2 turns. Open the throttle fully, pull in decompression and kick through fast 8 times. I get it on compression and then use decompression lever to just get to TDC then jump on it. If it doesn’t start for some reason, I open throttle fully, hold decomp, and kick through 8 times again before trying to start. I’ve never had any issue starting it.
Awesome! Thank you for sharing all of that. Really appreciate it!
I can’t speak for early HRC kits but 90-up 628 power up kits came with a jet and needle kit with instructions in main kit manual. It also came with shims to move the needle 1/2 a position. My 92 changed needles and went from like a #152 main to a #165. An over size header required shimming the needle up a 1/2 notch and #168 main. I run White Bros exhaust with 12 discs at sea level and 16-18 discs for racing depending on temps. Just for perspective.
I would also recommend a oil temp dipstick as a tuning tool and keep it running under 300 degrees. Preferred under 270 for general riding.,
Those are nice. I have one on my XR400
Good to know! Yeah this kit came with shims too but I luckily didn’t need them. I’ll be sure to tell the owner in case any adjustments are made down the road requiring more tinkering with the carbs.
Dang, you are playing chess with this bike when everyone else is going to play checkers with them. I thought oil in frame was reserved for old Triumph bikes and some mopeds. New info to me. Way to go on this fix. Runs like a top.
Thanks buddy. I think Yamaha also used the dry sump setup on some of their XT models but I might be mistaken. Good for cooling and it allows them to make smaller bottom ends too.
I did wince a bit at times but great results of course you got the touch 😅
Oh what an example
Such a crazy design
Cool generation! Ugghhh, they spray painted them, what a chucklehead. I had an 85 XL600. Carbs werent too finicky, but definitely a task made more complicated then needed with the set up. Yamaha liked em too, because they went dual carbs on their XTs.
The do look spray painted but I’m pretty sure they were vapor blasted. Super clean. I love the orange plastic XRs of the mid 80s!
@@Garage2Trail Yeah that exhaust definitely will need to fatten up the secondary side alot. Id of probably thrown a 145 main and ripped it to check for richness. But great job.
Yeah those were great years in bikes and look amazing. Love the looks of the 80s machines. It seemed all manufacturers were continuously making changes every year or two, especially mx bikes. The 80s were my teen years with mainly CRs and definitely have a soft spot for me. Great job on that build (goldies look amazing).
Yamaha xt/tt had cv secondary carbs, rather have honda dual carbs
@evan1kx125 Yeah I much preferred Hondas setup. Never a big fan of CVs on a dirtbike. They make sense on the street, but not so much offroad.
Great Video
Thank you!
The more you watch this bike the more you want one
I can barely sling my leg over it but the more I rode it, the more I wanted it 😆
Great job brother. I love that bike. I would love that Green DT you have there too. Merry Christmas brother.
Thank you! I really need to get that DT360 hooked up with lights so I can get it out on the road too. And Merry Christmas to you too buddy! 🎄
Well done on getting it running right 👍. Nice looking bike. One thing i usually do when i change the oil normally in the garage is I'll drain it but then put the bottom main drain plug back in finger tight and kick it over with stop in around 8 times then release plug and heaps more oil comes out, i then repeat that procedure 2 more times you'd be surprised how much more oill comes out. By the time you do it three times you've got most out. It then gives it a proper oil change i find.
Thanks! I’ll have to remember that tip when I change oil next time. Appreciate you sharing. 👍
The other mod I did to my 87 was to replace that flex line on the bottom of the frame reservoir screen bolt to the engine. Mine looked like it almost had a kink in it and made me feel like the oil flow was restricted through it. I used a stock line from the 650L and it bolted right up. The bend section on the 650L line is steel.
I’ll let the owner know and give him a heads up. Thank you!
I did as much research on these dual carb 600’s as I could. An interesting item I found was flat track racers preferred these dual carb heads because they flow more air in stock form than the single carb heads which gave higher top speeds on the straightaways. If you think about it, (2) 28mm carbs at full open is 56mm. I believe the single carb XR600 is a 39mm. Quite a bit more flow stock. Once these flat track racers starting hand porting, higher compression, better valve job, these things would make big power.
Very cool 👍
Sounds like it is running good now. I started riding XR's back in the late 1980's on a 1986 XR600R then I had a 1988, 1997, and now a 1999 and The Dual Carburetors on the 1986 seemed to have a little better throttle response and never had any problems with them.
Thanks, yeah she’s very crisp now. I can wick that throttle open at any moment and it doesn’t hiccup or pop. Front wheel comes up a lot!
Do a sparkplug read to help dial in that jetting. Congrats on the restoration
Thanks!
I noticed clutch cable, both nut adjusters go on front end of cable. Alot of flywheel cover broke tab off because nuts on both sides
That’s some good info, thank you!
Would love to see some knobbies on it and a test on your loop! They say to never meet your heroes, sometimes "they" are wrong.
I plan on taking my XR650R on that loop as soon as I can get a new tire on the back of that. Been waiting for a cool dry day for that one!
The carby bowl with the pitting is not from a 1986 xr600. Probably doesn’t matter though as long as the fuel volume available is similar
Wow nice catch. I would never had known. I did notice the drain bolt on the bottoms was functional on one and not the other.
Yes the carb bowl without cap on bottom is xl600 bowl, id find another xr600 bowl to be able to change main jets with out pulling carbs if you want to play around somemore
@@evan1kx125Haha, he's probably 'played around' enough😁
Larry McGinley I had a 1975 Honda xl 250 a cousin of mine went 80 up the road once!😂
Beautiful bike, i loved the xr600s. If it's a 628cc, wouldn't it need a larger pwir of carbs and larger opening air box?
Thanks! The airbox snorkel was removed and running a UNI. Much more flow over stock. Headers are bigger too. The carbs did need richened up quite a bit to handle the extra air flow.
Not watched till end yet - end can missing nut and bolt. Edit - shared seat bolt? If you want to keep stock needle profile but want to go richer, you can use needle shims to raise 1/2 or 1 clip steps.
S***! That frame screen has been in there a long time - got red paint, so frame repainted without removing it ....... good job you are thorough! Good work sir!
Thank you! The richest jet I had in my kit was 140 so I’ll leave it up to the owner if he wants to change the needle and richer jets in.
Yeah,I like your videos,they said the last ts 185 Suzuki's would do 86 mph,I don't know.
Sounds like the valves need adjusted
Did that in the first video. I think the video picks up acoustics that make it sound like it’s ticking. It always threw me off when I first started recording for the channel thinking I did something wrong lol
Looks like someone spray painted those carbs? Ewww, lol.
Nahh I believe they were vapor blasted. Super clean looking.
@@Garage2Trail Ok, that's great. Nice job on the tuning and that foul oil screen. Someone should make a single carb manifold for that.
Thanks! I’ve heard a lot of people prefer the dual carb on this bike when it’s setup right. Better throttle response is normally the reason.
Now put a 145 main jet in it and see if it likes it or not,you won't know what it likes until you fine tune it,If its too rich it will bogg when you crack the throttle open and then go back down a size
Good idea!
On my TT600 l do the same trick with the manifold to make removal easier. Then l rig up a woodworking trestle with a flat piece of wood clamped to the top to make a bench.
This means l can work close beside the bike and work on the carbs without messing with the cables.
Sometimes on bikes you can fiddle with the choke while riding(carefully😁) to ascertain if richening helps the engine.
Changes are best made one carb at a time, tedious but methodical.