TURBO Problem Disables AWD? (Acura RDX)
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2022
- This 2007 Acura RDX at 210k miles is throwing a check engine light that DISABLES the All-Wheel-Drive system, and the owner wants it fixed.
The only code set is: P2263-Turbocharger Boost System Performance Problem
Lots of issues can cause this code...
A secondary customer complaint is an intermittent NO-CRANK condition...
Let's focus on the turbo system and see what the root cause of the issue is.
THINK TOOL PROS:
www.amazon.com/dp/B08XXWHQVJ?...
Enjoy!
Ivan 
Авто/Мото
Ivan, what I love about your work is that you are an actual Degreed Scientist... and one hell of a Mechanic! You blend the two seamlessly. Very motivating and educational! Thank you!
Wow, turbocharger issues. I've heard about them going bad with loose linkages. But interesting to see how you diagnosed the problem with Scan tool! Love the bonus footage! Awesome video
You are really good describing how the turbo work on this car and thas the key to find the problem flowing the steps. Thanks Ivan
I've got an '08 RDX with 198k and it's still on it's OEM wheel bearings, axles, driveshaft, struts, literally everything except the sway bar end links. Battery, brakes, and tires have been done multiple times which is just maintenance. Oil changes every 3500 and trans fluid drain and fill every 30k. Easily the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Purchased for $9000 with 90k on it 8 years ago.
Mine has 360k🥵
@@audearing27 Love it, any major issues?
@@tylermartelle7041 I’d say that a lot of the DTCs on these cars are caused by something else. Most often I’ve found that the car is EXTREMELY sensitive to battery/alternator voltage. Lower than expected voltage can trigger transmission codes, AWD codes, airbag codes, etc. I always check that first. So much in this car is electrical. The old Bluetooth module was killing my battery. (Parasitic drain) Disconnect it and you’re good to go again.
@@aharbis mine is a 07 sh awd no Bluetooth thankfully
Sunroof just failed on me tho😞
Ivan you my man are otherworldly, lol, your mind blows me away! Even when you've never worked on something before, you always manage to figure the system and understand how it works! Kudos Ivan!!!!
I love learning about new systems and sharing that with everyone 🙂
Thank you for taking the time out of your life to do this video🎉❤
And Ivan, that No Crank/No Start Bonus Footage could be its own video. Great information!
I just had this same problem with my RDX and this video was valuable showing how the turbo system works and the graphs of all the sensor readings, pressure and throttle position. I wish I had a scanner like the one in this video. The repair of just adjusting the eye bolt isn’t repairing this problem though. With the gap shown at the actuator eye bolt the turbo variable flow isn’t under good control anymore. The play in the pivot pin area of the actuator control causes the exhaust flap opening, which controls the exhaust flow to different areas of the twin scroll turbine wheel, to be delayed or it may even prevent the flap from fully opening. This delays the response of the boost pressure and you get the P2263 code. The play in the pivot point is not just from the eye bolt either, the pin it pivots on also wears so replacing just the eye bolt is a temporary fix at best. The worn pin though is rivetted onto the flap control arm so it’s difficult (but not impossible, I managed to do it) to replace so the worn pin and eye bolt must be replaced for a solid, long-lasting fix. The alternative is replacing the turbo.
It also did sound like there was air leakage through the variable flow actuator diaphragm, but I cringe seeing shop air being used on these actuators, normal max operating pressure is in the 10-15psi range, not sure what psi the diaphragms inside the actuator can actually tolerate.
Turbo related issues are very interesting. Thanks Ivan!
Man, you get ahold of some complicated stuff! I would have to sit down and study those solenoid operation descriptions for quite a while to follow what was happening. And those full-throttle turbo tests! Wow!
Good repair Ivan! The turbo code causes the AWD shutdown. THAT'S definitely a new one!
Very thorough diagnostic on this P2263 turbo wastegate linkage issue. After viewing this video, I tightened my linkage on my 2010 Acura RDX, cleared the code, drove it and.....drum roll...Problem Solved! Thank you Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics!! RG
How do you tighten it am I missing something in the video? Did he show us how in the video?
You are a phenomenal RUclips Mechanic extraordinaire. You are so detailed in your work and it helps a ton. Thank you so much for all that you do.
once again youcome thru. i wasnt sure what you were going to do if you had not fixed it. admire your determination on someone;s car.
Thanks Ivan for a fast and great repair! And a great video!
My pleasure Andy!
Nice diagnosis, Ivan! Another No Parts Required -- other than the crappy starter but it wasn't driven in for that reason.
Sir, thank you. Wife has 2008 RDX and your video explains an awful lot. Local dealers (Colorado Front Range area) only say, "Too bad, turbo charger has failed, happens all the time, $8,900 and we can fix that". Current mechanic is also a teacher and we will see if we can get more mileage out of it for the wife, thanks for the education.
Learned my lesson with aftermarket starters on our 08 CRV. Lasted about a year. Shelled out on a Honda reman second time. Much more expensive but job done. Shoulda just bit the bullet the first time. Not the easiest job since it's under the intake manifold so didn't even try and claim a warranty. Worth the extra $ just to be done with it.
I'm surprised that all the blow-by is okay. Good repair, enjoyed tagging along. Thanks.
Yeah it’s not supposed to have that, it’s clearly got a torn diaphragm
Hi Ivan. 6 Month update. The Diaphragm did actually fail completely last week. I have a new one that I'm planning on replacing this weekend. 100% tighter in the linkage (no slop) and zero blow-by.
NICE! It's a good day when you don't really get your hands dirty! Nice work as usual!
Wow ! I’m so impressed of your work you did it no noise well done 👍👌😄💕💕💕❤️
G'day Ivan; I have a request to make. I'd like for you to compile a series of tutorial videos on the correct operation and usage of the Think Tool Pros. I believe that the average Joe could greatly benefit from your expertise and technical knowledge. There appear to be a great number of functions that may be better exposed and explained by you. For your consideration; Many Thanks.
I would also enjoy that because at times I fumble with the think tool pros
There should actually be a pre load on the WG actuator , it's fairly hard to over come that spring when properly installing WG actuator with a good pre load. 👌
when i was younger i put a turbo kit on a non turbo model eagle talon and it would not build boost,i had to shim the wastegate mounting plate to tighten the pre load and that fixed it.now days most wastegate actuator rods have a adjusting nut you loosen and can extent the rod out or in.
Very Nicely done Ivan, I really appreciate your research before jumping to conclusions. 1 thing i would've done differently, that nut vibrates alot, I would've used some thread locker, or a second nut to lock it in place.
A second nut to lock the lock nut? Then it will be harder to adjust the next time 😁
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 🤣 I don't know what to say hhhhh but through experience with bikes on bumpy gravel roads, two nuts locked together never come loose on their own. So hopefully no future adjustments would've been needed 😁
@@aranhaydar9195 The design already has two nuts. the adjuster, and a second jam nut that locks the adjuster in place.
@@kain0m thanks for the info, i haven't noticed that :)
Always a follower of this channel. Thanks PHAD
Thank you for your support Richard!
Great video!! Thanks for the info
Great video. Very in depth for troubleshooting this turbo. Just curious, what model scanner are you using in this video??
It’s great to know that in this day of tech, a simple “tightening” of the linkage can fix a problem! Great work!
This helped me out very much thank you
Fantastic work Ivan! Mechanics have a tough job in that there are so many different vehicles with their own unique systems and designs. Tom Magliozi said that it would be easier to be a physician because they only have to deal with one make and two models.
Tom Magliozi should probably talk to a physician and see how they feel about that sentiment, lol!
That's why any mechanic that wants to make his life easier as well as be most competent will specialize in one or two makes.
So this is what is causing my 2012 rdx to have problems thank god I found this video hopefully it don’t cost a pretty penny😂
Good diagnosis on the turbo vehicle...you need to understand the principal and layout beforehand.
Ivan, fantastic job! I have always had a concern about HONDA/ACURA Turbocharging in recent years. Looks like 200 K miles when issues start?
Great repair plan. There should be a resource to determine which aftermarket brands have reliable parts that they sell. Not all brand parts are good, some are and some are junk which means another maker would be a better choice. Example, Gates is reliable rubber parts (radiator hoses, heater hose, belts etc.) but are they selling reliable belt tensioners and pulley's.
I agree with a vehicle part database, but with the amount of junk out there nowadays, there's only so much room a website can fill with junk crap, ill start- Moog u-joints are now TRASH, used to be one of the best, not anymore!
Thanks for the great video! Just a comment... that's intercooler on top of the engine looks dirty. Owner needs to "carefully" clean it and not crush anymore of the fins....errr...ummm nevermind. Saw the broken rear hatch lamp and torn headliner. LOL Still... Always good to see a high mileage car in good shape still being enjoyed!
I blew it off with compressed air lol
There is a little “comb” tool available to straighten out those bent fins. Not sure how a top-mount got so beat up.
The car apparently had some previous front end damage, I discovered that when I pulled the bumper cover to replace a broken fog light.
The headliner… this is my daughters car, and her 3 year old grabbed the dome light and pulled…. Toddlers are really rough on cars…😂
Great Job Ivan! I'm New to the Channel but have a Acura RDX, what is the name of the diagnostic tablet you're using and is it available on Amazon?
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Was the rattling noise resolved? If so, how? Thank you, great video! My Acura makes the same rattling noise.
Regarding the starter, another way that I've seen someone check electric motors for dead windings is to scope the current draw. Zoom right down to a short time base and you can see each winding drawing current as a half-sine shaped pulse. If there's a flat spot, there's a dead winding.
owner upgraded actuator clevis to hardened steel but what happens is the actuator pin it slip onto wears out instead, it requires a hardened sleeve over the pin if you use a hardened clevis. He moved the problem to the next weak point in the chain .of connections. Its better to wear out the clevis connector than the wastegate pin, thats why its made from softer material, its a sacrificial consumable.
Good video thanks for sharing it
That Car Quest starter is Lifetime. 🤟🏻🇺🇸
A lifetime of getting stranded and annual starter replacement 🤣
Makes sense why the AWD would shut down. Prevention of engine and drivetrain strain due to a delay in boost control from the loose gate linkage. Good stuff.
They would also shut it down for an EVAP code...I'm guessing lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics now that is weird. That would be a hell of a question and intriguing to figure out why. Only thing I could think of is the demand of a perfect fuel recirculation because of the demand of fuel because it’s a turbo engine. The thought of if the evap system is out of tolerance, it would trigger a fuel system fault. (Even though it would be an evap system recirculating fault.) Darn emissions systems.
Honda is not the only one to do this. It has nothing specifically to do with turbo. An evap code can disable awd, stability/traction control, cruise control, grade braking etc..
By taking the slack with the adjustment you closed the wastegate and allow the turbo to build required boost. BUT now the system can’t open the wastegate all the way when needed, especially with leaking actuator. This is why the test failed after adjustment. On sustained high load operation it will throw overboost code. Over time this damages the turbo.
I think you will get that one back at some point. That diaphragm is leaking bad, it will not work at all when the hole in it gets bigger.
I agree the diaphragm leaking will cause an over boost, thats why it didn't pass the diagnostic test on the scanner. It will probably go into a limp mode accelerating hard up a long hill.
2nd that
Interesting. Was not sure if that leak was part of the design...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics never worked on one but I wouldn't have thought so. It's basically the original way of controlling boost pressure using the boost pressure to open the waste gate with the solenoid valve to allow the ECU to control it. Plus you are loosing metered air through the diaphragm upsetting the air fuel mixture.
@@roberthouston594 I completely agree. A part of the scantool test was to “reject” boost pressure with the wastegate open. Due to the big leak the diaphragm doesn’t respond to the only little flow/pressure of the control side.
Jamming it shut with the adjustment will help to build the boost obviously, so the car is happy but I think in a longer periode WOT it will still malfunction.
But the customer is happy and this is a good catch in terms of low expenses.
My 97 Accord has heat shield rattle. I tried to fix using silver solder but eventually replaced 3 of them. They are no longer available.
That little ring linkage end is obviously a design problem and as such, replacement units are available on Ebay $19.99.
How many times are you willing to replace it for free at that price?
I suspect even slight wear keeps the wastegate from quickly reacting in a linear manner like it's supposed to.
This kind of linkage wear is common on wastegate actuators from many different manufacturers. It's an extremely harsh operating condition, very high temperatures means the bush can't be lubricated so has to run dry.
The OEM part from Honda was oval, and down to about 1mm on the bottom when I replaced it with a hardened steel one. Planned obsolescence from Honda. And Honda will only sell a complete new turbo for 4K. Sometimes you have to go aftermarket.
Another weird case gets a great diagnostic. Only doubt I have is if you don't' have a leak in the diaphragm (it leaked when you applied pressure, but it could be so by design, if over-pressured).
That problem starting could also be worn brushes, but I guess you don't replace brushes in the US, just go for the whole starter motor. Great video, as always 🙂
Crappy starter is lifetime warranty so you just have to replace it every couple years haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics OK. Good to know 🙂
Thanks Ivan, and I did replace the Starter after you got the car back to me. Good thing it’s only a 30 minute job!
@@aharbis Great that you fixed it!
Actually kind of neat how Honda did this turbocharger set up. It is actually using two different ways to control boost on the hot side of the turbo. Your typical common WG actuator and a valve to bypass gases from the turbine and a variable flap to control what channel the exhaust gases to flow through. With the variable flap keeping closed during light throttle and normal driving to have the turbocharger act as a small turbo to dramatically reduce turbo lag, and opening the flap to have the exhaust gases flow through the big channel and smaller one to act as a higher volume hot side to flow more exhaust gases during high load events and WOT.
Also, that WG actuator is starting to fail, shouldn't have that much air escaping, One of the test I do is apply vacuum to it with my hand pump and make sure it can hold a vacuum. Anyways its never good to have a flopping WG actuator rod like that, HOLY SMOKES... Surprised that thing even made boost at all!
Explanation was not confusing to me but then I have a turbo car. Actually, two of them. Most of the waste gate actuators need a little pre-load in them.
Ivzn, if the waste gate doesn't close fully you will not get the boost build up quick enough it cam also be sluggish responding if corrosion exists.
So which way u turned on 19:38. I cant even go 40miles without it coming on. Before I replaced it it was once last yr on. Helpful video for sure.
so the light bulbs on the starter was like doing a voltage drop test right?i was thinking do people ever hook up test lights power to power or ground to ground and look for voltage drops this way if they suspect a massive vd?maybe use a led to be able to spot a small voltage drop this way?just curious.because a led would light if you had a few volts of drop right?
Are you able to help me point out the location of the boost pressure sensor? I really thought you were going to deal with it during this video but my waste gate was also loose and making the same noise that you fixed on this vehicle so thank you so much for covering that and helping with that but I am still getting a code for the boost pressure sensor, but I have no idea where it’s located. Can you help me with locating it and showing me where the boost pressure sensor is located at?
I like how you explain everything step by step . I have a question for you. I gave 2008 Acura RDX and it takes a while for it to start . After I get hom I shut off the car and fry to start right away it starts no problem, but if I let it sit for 20 minutes it takes 5 seconds to start what can this possibly be?
And also it drains my battery over night 🤷♂️
For the Battery Drain, check the Bluetooth control module (HFL). It was draining my battery too. Especially on these older cars (mines an '07). If you don't use the Hands Free Link, just disconnect it. It's a 5 minute fix. The access panel is on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. pop the cover, and pull the plug. it should be directly below the cup holder. It fixed my parasitic drain instantly.
Nice diagnostic my friend. Never had a chance to work on a turbo system. The Astra was back Driver side power window regulator and window came off track. 5 hours later it is fixed. I am going to send you an email personal question. for you.
Good vid! Waste gate dumps excess boost to the atmosphere and can sound like a huge air leak.
What they've done is use a very small turbo so that they can get great throttle response with no turbo lag. That works very good but over-driving the turbo is easy to do so they've used three different ways of controlling it. Very sophisticated!
Waste gate dumps exhaust pressure before it can get to the turbine housing, preventing more boost from being created. (Hot side regulation)
Blow-off valve vents excess boost to atmosphere. (Cold side regulation)
@@mattmanyam I had forgotten that - been a long time since I looked at mine. It dumps drive pressure.
Hello! I have the exact same RDX except mine is a 2012. I'm also having the exact same issue. I too can hear the waste gate rattle when in neutral and reving my engine. Both nuts on top of the center long nut above the actuator nut look secure. Any advice would be appreciated! I would love to have AWD for the winter ❄️
Put the picoscope current camp on the starter cable an monitor the waveform. You may see 1 commutator drop out as it rotates. Thank you Ivan!
These starters have four commutators.
Nice! That K23 is a weird engine, I'm not sure why they didn't just use the K24 they used in the Accord, CRV, Element, TSX, etc. Developing an entirely different engine for one vehicle for a 0.1L difference in displacement seems ridiculous to me, but I'm sure they had their reasons.
It's the same 86mm bore as the K20 and the same 99mm stroke as the K24. So K20 block with K24 crank? Guessing the cylinder heads are similar to the K20.
@@tyloughThe K23 block also has the same deck height as the K24 at 231.5 mm. I know the K23 block won't bolt to the regular K20/K24 transmissions because the bell housing is different. The cylinder head has the economy iVTEC system with VTEC only on the intake cam like the K20A3 and the same size intake and exhaust valves as the K24A2. Overall, the K23 doesn't seem nearly as impressive as the K20A2, K20Z1, K24A2, etc since those engines all make 200+ HP stock all motor while the K23 only makes 240 HP with 13.5 PSI of boost, which regular K20/K24 will easily make or exceed with just basic bolt ons and a decent tune. With a proper turbo setup making the same amount of boost, any performance K20/K24 will easily be well over 400HP.
Don't forget this was the first turbo engine honda put on the market and they were very conservative with the tune! A simple hondata reflash wakes up the engine a lot! Also the transmission is build a lot stronger I believe, mine is at 200k miles and doesn't show any signs of fatigue with over 300hp at the motor, best vehicle Ive ever own
@@speedymicky correct sir, intake, down pipe, ug injectors and hondata tune made all the difference.
Ivan: It's not really related, but I thought I would tell you: The "SH-AWD" systems (super handling all wheel drive) -- on these are actually more unique than most other AWD systems in that: The torque vectoring axle has dual clutch packs on each side (one on each wheel), that can engage or not, at will, by the computer, actuated by electric motors. BUT ALSO- each side also has a planetary gear set on each wheel, that can Overdrive that wheel past 100% speed of the other wheels. It's like there is a 2 speed transmission on each wheel. So when you're going around a corner, the planetary gear will engage on the outer rear wheel and that will cause it to be Powered faster than the other wheels- which will help PUSH you around the corner better. Where as, most other torque vectoring" cars only use the ABS system to slow your inner rear wheel when cornering. So instead of braking the inner wheel, these Honda's are over-Powering the outer wheel. pretty cool
I believe Honda did this over drive axle first... but I heard more recently that VW has a little car that just has a slightly higher gear ratio in their rear end differential--- so when the AWD system kicks in, it's pushing the rear wheels a little faster than the fronts, so that causes most of your power to go towards the rear wheels, to give it a rear wheel bias. Obviously it can't stay on very long, since it would cause binding. But all of these systems only kick in when it sees wheel slippage from your speed sensors, or when you are cornering. So MOST of the time, it's just a front wheel drive car.... I just thought it was interesting when I learned these things.
Thank you for sharing that info, that system is quite interesting
The Ford Focus RS has the overdriven rear axle. There's no differential, just a slightly overdriven hypoid gear and a clutch on each side. When both clutches are fully locked (drift mode) the rear wheels spin faster than the front.
Wow... that's really cool.
I'm 4 min in, not sure what actually set the code, but one thing to consider is the after cooler, they get holes in them, and leak boost, I often hear it on commercial trucks struggling to get up mountains....
I had a similar starter issue with my 2006 Accord. I replaced the starter and upon inspecting the old sarter I found that honda starter had two pairs of brushes, one pair was worn and I guess that causes the intermittent starter issue or the weak battery impression. I think honda sells the starter brush assembly only too.
Had to rescue my daughter from the beer distributor. Kind of hard to bang on the starter and turn the key at the same time lol
Did the car come back for the turbo performance issue? That's quite a gap in the wastegate linkage. I replaced mine and the code no longer appeared. It was hell to replace the worn linkage. The gap on mine was a lot less than this one and I haven't had any more problems.
I need to follow this issue as I have an 08.
What about this problem with the same car model?
(p0234,p0117,p0365,p1131)
engine very hard to start and runns rough
I've make a test drive and had a late start, then worked good but sometimes rpm or misfire lose.
Where is located the camshaft sensor?
Seems like all the internal-wastegate turbos have this issue with the wastegates getting sloppy, from all the heat cycling. The K04’s are pretty bad about it.
Hello friend, I have replace the turbo charger part on my rdx 2010. I bought a re manufactured one... but error p2263 still on. What do you think I should focus next ??
I need to know if this SUV has overheating due to having a damaged turbo? I have one 2007
Thank you for this video! I've had the same problem. I replaced the waste gate actuator and it eliminated the buzz sound, but the sh-awd turns itself off still.
I've been erasing the error code for the sh-awd and the emission code every time I start the car, and the awd stays on until I turn the engine off again. Rinse and repeat sh-awd.
I've been driving her this way for about 20k miles, and it runs as well as the day it was built. She's got 220k miles, and I love her.
If anyone has any suggestions aside from replacing the whole turbo for $7.5k, please let me know.
Thank you all!
Another repair and diagnosis CRANKED out by PHAD!😎✔🇨🇦
This turbo consumes more in gas,
65 L full tank gives only about 290 km in the city.
Is it normal ?
I have changed spark plugs, air filter oil changed on time .
well done!
I have a 2012 rdx and am having a skip or miss at high boost. No codes and still has power thru boost range. Can you give me advice where to look first? I feel like its something stupid
Helo sir, I'd like to know where are you located cause I want bring my 2007 Acura RDX so you can fix my car. It's got the code P2263 and also has a flashing D drive light. Have you give it dianostic test to see if any other codes pop up that you can fix for me.
sometimes inside the actuator the membrane is busted to.
actuators have a max and min opening,sometimes needs a machine to adjust it.
Umm, I'm not certain about the test you did on the diaphragm. In the video, you can hear a rush of air when the diaphragm actuated. But the diaphragm itself should NOT leak any air. Was that sound we heard coming from the test equipment? Or was that the diaphragm leaking Ivan? Also, a little high temp grease on the linkage end goes a long way between adjustment intervals.
The wastegate arm gets extremely hot under load and regular high temperature grease will just boil off, that's why the linkage bush is dry straight from the factory.
can you tell me if there is any code reader that can read obd1 on 1989 bmw please regards stev
I changed the turbo that pice came on it with both actuator all connected and adjusted I'm still getting the same code any suggestions
Good job
That was one cramped engine compartment. WOW!
The wastegate actuator cannister should not leak. If it does metered air escapes via the solenoid, via the cannister whenever boost is demanded.
And boost can't be properly controlled.
And yes, there should be a pre-load on the WG actuator rod.
Another issue with older high mileage turbo's is possible cracked wastegate port or WG valve. It causes slow spool-up.
I would love to bench-test a new actuator and see if it leaks air or not...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I got a rdx 2008 with a spare turbo assembly and assure you the actuator with o to 14 psi air pressure from my compressor is not leaking at all
@@chrisland169 ok that is good to know. I'll reach out to the owner and recommend a new actuator 👍
information is power
Nice fix Ivan. Was that starter made by Dorman? Cause their junk don`t last. Smack that junk with a hammer.
You made a helpful and informative video out of nothing. Nice vid.
So BMW has this same issue. Even though the fix is ok my advice is to replace the wastegate actuator rod and flap if possible. Often times the flap and rod are integral to the turbo. But the fix used in this video will likely be temporary. The flap on the turbocharger turbine side is likely worn. And the linkage along with it. So it will just wear again until the same problem resurfaces. You'll get away with it a couple of times. But eventually the turbocharger will likely have to be replaced. To be clear I'm not saying Ivan's solution is wrong. I do this often on BMW's. Adjust the rod. Do a relearn for the wastegate actuator stops. And send it. It's just that the reason this happens is wear. So the temporary solution is to make an adjustment. But the longterm solution is to replace the worn parts. Unfortunately in the these cases the wastegate and linkage is usuallu integral. Which means the entire turbocharger has to be replaced. Whenever I get one of these, wether it's a BMW or an Acura, I advise the customer that it's a temporary solution. They're usually ok with it when they see the parts and labor for a turbocharger replacement. But the idea is to make that clear.
If it lasts another 3 years the owner will be happy 😁
What do I do if check sh awd light turns on
Hey they helped
Does that cause the sound of an exhaust leak? Cause she putting a little bit
Confused by which direction you went to tighten the waste gate actuator. Appears in video you started going counterclockwise which appeared to loosen it and then went clockwise which appeared to tighten it. Then later in the video it appears you used a wrench in a clockwise motion followed by using the wrench in a counterclockwise rotation. How many net rotations did it take to get the waste gate to work properly?
Just go in the direction that takes out the slack, then add one full turn :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I replaced my Variable Flow Actuator Eye Bolt & Nut VGT Rod End Link with one from EBay. Mine was worn and elongated. Unfortunately after replacing I was still getting the P2263 error code. After watching your video I tightened the linkage by going clockwise with the tall adjustable nut until I felt tension on the nut from the waste gate being in the full upright position. Then held the tall nut in place with one wrench and went counterclockwise with the small lock nut with another wrench to lock the rod link in place. Reset the codes and took car for a 10 mile drive. Boost on turbo gauge easily spooled up when accelerating quickly and no codes!!! Thanks for the educational video.
I NEED SOME SERIOUS HELP ON MY 2011 RDX SH-AWD PLEASE 😢
210k miles for a turbo 4 sounds good to me. Do you see a lot of high mileage turbos? I'm in the market for a new car and the current trend is to put a turbo 4 in CUVs/SUVs nowadays. I worry the engine life will be comprised.
My 07 rdx has 370k
I have the same problem same code I replace the turbo and I still have the same code. I replace the wastegate solenoids, but I don’t know what’s going on with the car.
Make sure your oil pressure is good lol
What pico kit would u recommend the Standard r the advanced
Depends on your budget! I would start with the standard kit and then add custom probes as needed 👍
How much cost?
all data saying blow off valve controls boost pressure i think is wrong,its purpose is to evacuate excess air when throttle plate closes otherwise it has knowere to go and goes back into compressor wheel causing surge and has nothing to do with boost control.if it was stuck shut it would just cause compressor surge and boost pressure would stay the same.
Imagine taking that to the dealer for the turbo problem. They would have quoted $800 for new actuator but first, $500 for starter R&R.
Honda won’t sell the actuator, $4k for a new turbo.
Spring getting weak or losing range of motion
Probably contacts in the starter worn out change them myself on my own car. Reman starters are hit and miss
I got 07 acura rdx too and sounds like someone ran that regular gas for a long time