2023 update: 8BitDo appears to have updated this stick, and it no longer uses torx/safety screws on the bottom. And there no longer seems seems to be any glue or resin used either
I got the xbox version and it seems the glue the screws holding the stick inside instead all my screws are destroyed and I haven't been able to install the sanwa stick because of this.
Can confirm, just bought one and the screws are phillips screws. They do have glue, not on the heads but at the bottom. I would recommend cleaning up the six screws before sealing it back up again, as the glue residue seems to be effecting the screws to fully tighten.
Every review complains about Torx screws, but I think the important point about Torx is that they don’t strip even a fraction as easily as Phillips (as you coincidentally experienced and commented on with the stick’s screws), so for something the manufacturer expects to be opened and closed numerous times, i.e. “Ultra Moddable,” Torx screws are actually a very thoughtful addition.
P.S. Awesome video. Haha. I also love concave buttons, and I wish I knew the practical differences between the Sanwa, Seimitsu, Hayabusa sticks and buttons.
Obviously can only speak for myself, but the reason I call it out (and assume others did as well) is because not a lot of people have them. This is also why I made a point of calling out the specific size. Or at least I think I did?? It's been a while since I made this.. You are right though, torx is better for longevity. And that's likely why 8Bit made the decision.
@@duaplex1 I got the stick and remapped them as R3 and L3. Definitely great. I guess you can use the 8bitdo software to remap buttons to your liking instead of xpadder?
@@shrewdsharpshooter xpadder is used so I can play all emulators on hyperspin. So it maps the hyperspin keyboard contols to the arcade stick. You definitely need the 8bitdo software for P1 and P2 otherwise it won't detect it. It all depends on how you use it.
Please keep the videos coming this was easily the best video on the 8BitDo Arcade Stick I've seen and really helped me understand the limits in terms of fitment. Amazing video!
Because of the nostalgia of concave buttons, I was a bit taken aback by no bat top. Concave buttons and a bat top stick is peanut butter and jelly to me. Anyway, Great Job!
I partially tailored the build for the video, I figured most people watching would be looking for a traditional Japanese balltop. I built a custom Happ/American arcade style stick for my own nostalgia fix
Hey everyone! I realized the audio becomes slightly desync'd during the "Closing thoughts" section. Sorry for the annoyance, it must have been an export issue; I'll keep an eye out for this in the future.
You didn't show the "glue" but I expect it's threadlocker (or you really wouldn't be able to get it open with a screwdriver). In that case it's actually pretty good that they have put that level of detail/care into protecting the screw threads!
Yeah, I notice a ton of rookie mistakes when I go back and watch this video; and I didn't get the camera to focus properly on the screws. "glue" may not be the right word; specifically it's a crumbly off white sort of resin. I've seen it used as a cost saving measure in place of a proper threadlocker, not just in arcade sticks. It does the job more-or-less, but it's not a proper threadlocker like Loctite.
went and bought some soldering kit, so I can just connect the connector to the board, after that, most of the stick will be a lot easier to plug in, including those 8 pin arcade joystick
Just ordered parts for mine. I mainly use it for shmups and I had Seimitsu on my Virtua Stick 2 etc. But then I had to order from Japan since most parts were sold out in the Uk (I live in Sweden) So I bought Sanwa Jlf and obsc-c buttons. Bought kowals actuator (For shorter throw) and a 4lb spring just in case and a bubble smoke top 😁
Nice picks! I've used a 4lb spring before on a jlf, the reset speed is great. If the tension is too much consider a bat top. I found the extra leverage made a nice middle ground between fast resets and resistance.
Yes that's exactly what they are! Thanks for letting me know I didn't make it clear enough. I really appreciate the constructive feedback while I'm still getting this channel of the ground. 👍
Thank you! Yes, the PXN 0082, to my knowledge, comes in two variants. One has the buttons soldered to a board, and the other uses some unusual wiring. I'll consider covering it in the future 👍
Great video, I got one of these recently and am thinking about transplanting my sanwa buttons and seimitsu LS-33 over to it. I like the concave button mod, I may have to try that and see how it feels.
For an NES-themed arcade stick controller, I would stick with 2 red buttons for B and A and 6 black buttons to represent nothing because back in the '80's, the NES controller had only two red action buttons.
thanks for the video. do you have the same for the xbox 8bitdo stick? because iam going to mod that one and would appreciate info regarding that. where did you get that gameboy tshirt? looks cool!
It looks like they have the same kind of plates in there.. Do you think it's possible to add more plates to make it heavier? To me the stick isn't heavy enough as when really fast movements to escape dizzy and grabbed states it comes off the desk and bangs up and down on the desk a lot.
Thanks for this video. I recently bought this stick (my first) for playing shmups and was looking to install a more responsive lever - the stock feels very loose to me. I found a lot of conflicting information out there though about which levers would fit, with some people saying that you’d have to cut holes in the bottom of the case to fit some Seimitsus. Watching a few videos though, I’ve realised there seem to be different models out there - your metal base plate had a large space in it, whereas others have just a small hole where the lever sits. Can I just, check, you didn’t do any routing or filing etc to get the LS-56 to fit? And if the 56 fits, do you think an LS-40 would?
Glad you enjoyed it! I believe the base plate with the small hole was from the original or a very early run. Mine is exactly as it came out of the box, no modification. For the LS-40 I can do you one better than guess. I have one and can verify it fits in without issue. Just tested it 👍
I have an early run with the smaller well for the lever and can confirm that an LS-56-01 bottoms out ever so slightly on the bottom of the case. Still trying to figure out a plan of action, as it can’t need more than a millimeter or so of space, as it performs fine until I put the screws back in the bottom.
Thank you! It's a Seimitsu LS-56-01, and the ball top is a Seimitsu "LB-39 Clear Bubble Top". The top is a standard threading, so it will work on most any joystick, not just Seimitsu ones. You can find them on any of the major arcade shops sites. I bought mine from Arcade Shock. The joystick: arcadeshock.com/collections/joysticks/products/seimitsu-ls-56-01-joystick The ball top: arcadeshock.com/collections/balltops/products/seimitsu-lb-39-clear-balltop-39mm-balltop-only-on-shaft-or-dust-cover
I don't mean this as a critism, I am just curious -- why replace the stock stick at all if you bought and installed an octagonal gate? Did you simply want a square gate?
Hey, no worries! I know octagonal gates are a very popular upgrade, so I wanted to show how to do it. But I was also trying to cover how to change the stick out completely, and make a 5pin connector work. But yes, typically I do use square gates.
You're welcome, and thank you! For LEDs, yes and no. Officially, no. There's no pin or spot to solder a wire for "VCC" to provide power to the lights. Unofficially, sort of. It's possible to piggyback off the battery (and direct power) by soldering wires onto the side of the board the pins stick up. I've also heard of adding in a Raspberry Pi Pico as another board to control the lights. I don't know much about this, but I did find a Reddit thread talking about both these options here: www.reddit.com/r/fightsticks/comments/r29or0/vcc5v_location_on_8bitdo_arcade_stick/ Hopefully that can get you headed down the right path.
Thank you! Do you mean the default 8BitDo stick? Yes, that stick is very loose, both in the sense that it has very soft actuation and it spins easily. Most levers have some amount of spin to them, but the default on this is particularly spinny
Yes, I'm searching like crazy for the concave button tops in yellow and I cant find any for the life of me. I've got a sanwa JLF stick and the sanwa buttons come with the stick, however?, the button tops are round and I want concave tops. Any help would be great. Thanks.
I assume you have standard 30mm Sanwa buttons, these are what you want: arcadeshock.com/collections/pushbuttons/products/classic-concave-solid-plungers-for-sanwa-denshi-30mm-pushbuttons On the off chance you have 24mm buttons those are also on the site, look under "pushbuttons"
Yup, OBSFE-30s will drop right in. For the joystick model do you mean the one that comes by default? It's not sold separately, so I'm not aware of what 8BitDo calls it. In the video I put in both a Sanwa JLF and a Seimitsu LS-56-01.
Was wondering if I could fit a couple Nintendo button assemblies in this (like on a VS cab)...how much space is there in terms of height inside for buttons?
Not as much as you'd imagine. The case is deceptively shallow, mostly due to the two heavy plates in the bottom half for weight. If you'd like exact measurements I can take them but off the cuff, if Nintendo arcade buttons are going to fit you'll likely need to remove the weights. And that might leave the stick weirdly light. They should still fit, but those old Nintendo buttons are 27mm iirc, so the fit might be a bit off in the 8Bit's 30mm holes. If you're open to other ideas and want an arcade stick with retro parts. I've built one of these with Happ style parts and a brook board, which came out very well: retroarcadecrafts.com/collections/case-panel/products/diy-happ-competition-arcade-fight-stick-joystick-metal-case-and-acrylic-panel-big-size?variant=29415268319255 It's a very roomy case, and has 28mm holes rather than 30mm which is better suited for retro parts. It's direct from China tho, so expect long shipping times
Damn, good video but I've been lookin everywhere for someone talkin about putting LED buttons in this. I've upgraded everything on mine except the new spring I'm waiting on and I want LED buttons but I'm startin to think this stick can't handle that.
Thank you! Questions about adding LEDs have come up before. The best information I've found so far is in this Reddit thread, but the solutions are very hack-y: www.reddit.com/r/fightsticks/comments/r29or0/vcc5v_location_on_8bitdo_arcade_stick/ It obviously has LEDs for the button indicators, so there's clearly a power source that can run them. Given it's come up a few times I'm going to look into this. If I get it figured out I'll obviously make a video about it!
@@Hops_fgc you're the best! I hope your research brings you better results than mine. I was thinking the same thing like splitting the power off of the ones going to the panels but haven't found the right cords to make it happen. Got that notification bell rang for you, can't wait to see that video!
If I completely gut it and put new stick, buttons and a brook Pcb, can I disregard all the internal components? And can I use the stock macro buttons with the new PCB?
Obviously haven't done it myself, but from my experience with brooks and the space inside it might be a tight fit, but I think it should work. Main issues I can imagine you running into are what to do with some of the smaller buttons and knobs in the upper left. They operate directly off of the 8Bit's board, so there's no prongs or anything to run over to the Brook. So I imagine they'd either end up as buttons that don't do anything, or they'd just be left empty. The macro buttons on the right could be repurposed, though brook boards don't have macro capability. I think they'd end up having to be your start and select buttons. Because again, I'm not sure how you'd keep the existing ones functional.
Weird note but they seem to have switched to PH1 screws, or at least the one I bought that arrived Monday does. I was confused why my TR10 wasn't working until I shined a flashlight in there. Sadly I stripped the head of one of the screws holding the joystick plate and don't have anything to help me remove it so I'm SOL.
Thanks for letting me know! I've gotten a bunch of comments letting me know about this. I've updated the pinned comment and put an update at the top of the video description as well.
@@oromain no no, didn't mean it that way at all! Multiple comments helped me know this wasn't some one-off production oddity; so thank you for the input
It's a LS-56, and it's Seimitsu's closest offering to Sanwa's JLF. Better is subjective, and mostly down to taste. They're both very well made. Main differences are the LS-56 has a slightly higher spring tension (~1.2lbs vs ~0.9lbs) and it uses hinged switches that are also just a little higher tension. The LS-56 doesn't actuate as smoothly as a JLF, people who don't like it tend to describe it as a bit "sandy" feeling. So it's a trade-off between a little stiffer and more intentional movement vs the JLFs softer, smoother movement.
Yup, you can find theme here at ArcadeShock: arcadeshock.com/collections/pushbuttons/products/classic-concave-solid-plungers-for-sanwa-denshi-30mm-pushbuttons
Hmm, I'm sorry but I don't completely follow the question. Are you asking if you can move the buttons and joystick out and put them in a different case?
@@Hops_fgc thanks for the answer, because of the small size of the arcade stick, I am afraid the stick size will not fit, I hope I can replace the shaft if it is too short
@@maximusZ09 totally understandable concern. While it won't leave any extra room like a JLF, the Hayabusa absolutely fits. And yes, the shaft is replaceable. Hayabusas use the same shaft design as JLFs. So you can swap in any extended JLF shaft
@@Hops_fgc that is really assuring, because I have planned to mod the arcade stick, especially the joystick, I feel the stock ver are quite loose for me
@maximusZ09 if that's your issue, you want to change the tension spring. Same story though, JLF springs will work. Default tension is a 1lb spring. Going up to a 1.5lb or 2lb spring is a good starting point. Pretty simple mod, remove the eclip on the bottom of the shaft. Do it over a box or something, those clips love to go flying off. Then the actuator should pop out on its own with the spring. Swap the default spring for your new one, put the actuator back over it. And lock it all back down with the eclip.
@@Hops_fgc You changed the gate on the generic stick. Fight stick noobs who see your video are more likely to go for this over the more expensive option of buying a new joystick. This is bad because an octagonal gate is just going to teach them to ride the gate, thus never learning to play properly.
@nucleon Ah, sorry. When you said, “ruin a stick” I thought you meant the *arcade* stick. I have to disagree, though. My preference is increasingly for k-levers, which are all (basically) circle gates. So, I don’t see square gates as inherently superior. And if a single ~20 sub RUclips channel not even recommending something, but just showing it is enough to convince someone; that person was going to do it no matter what. As for learning bad habits. Maybe a bit philosophical, but I see being wrong as a part of real growth. Correcting and contextualizing mistakes is important, and trying to skip every possible early mistake gets in the way of that. Disagreements aside. Thank you for commenting, I appreciate it all the same!
Fun fact! Officially it's now "do". But it was "dough" originally to sound like "Nintendo". They changed it over copyright concerns that their name was too similar, and Nintendo could sue for copying them.
![FUN is Wireless!｜8BitDo Arcade Stick [Nintendo Switch]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3Si1nnSus9o/mqdefault.jpg)
2023 update: 8BitDo appears to have updated this stick, and it no longer uses torx/safety screws on the bottom. And there no longer seems seems to be any glue or resin used either
Can confirm it uses philips screws.
Yep I was kinda confused that mine had normal screws and everyone was talking about torx :)
I got the xbox version and it seems the glue the screws holding the stick inside instead all my screws are destroyed and I haven't been able to install the sanwa stick because of this.
Are the updates only in the xbox verison? Or even in the switch version?
Can confirm, just bought one and the screws are phillips screws. They do have glue, not on the heads but at the bottom. I would recommend cleaning up the six screws before sealing it back up again, as the glue residue seems to be effecting the screws to fully tighten.
Every review complains about Torx screws, but I think the important point about Torx is that they don’t strip even a fraction as easily as Phillips (as you coincidentally experienced and commented on with the stick’s screws), so for something the manufacturer expects to be opened and closed numerous times, i.e. “Ultra Moddable,” Torx screws are actually a very thoughtful addition.
P.S. Awesome video. Haha. I also love concave buttons, and I wish I knew the practical differences between the Sanwa, Seimitsu, Hayabusa sticks and buttons.
They now come with Philips.
Obviously can only speak for myself, but the reason I call it out (and assume others did as well) is because not a lot of people have them. This is also why I made a point of calling out the specific size. Or at least I think I did?? It's been a while since I made this..
You are right though, torx is better for longevity. And that's likely why 8Bit made the decision.
For the macro buttons, I actually use the 8bitdo ultimate software to remap them to be Left stick click and Right stick click
Ooh, great idea. That's actually a clever use for them
You mean R3 and L3? It would be great if it is possible.
@@shrewdsharpshooter Yes, I have just done mine and it works. I use xpadder for configuring the stick.
@@duaplex1 I got the stick and remapped them as R3 and L3. Definitely great. I guess you can use the 8bitdo software to remap buttons to your liking instead of xpadder?
@@shrewdsharpshooter xpadder is used so I can play all emulators on hyperspin. So it maps the hyperspin keyboard contols to the arcade stick. You definitely need the 8bitdo software for P1 and P2 otherwise it won't detect it. It all depends on how you use it.
Please keep the videos coming this was easily the best video on the 8BitDo Arcade Stick I've seen and really helped me understand the limits in terms of fitment. Amazing video!
Thank you so much! It means a lot; I will for sure!
Because of the nostalgia of concave buttons, I was a bit taken aback by no bat top.
Concave buttons and a bat top stick is peanut butter and jelly to me.
Anyway, Great Job!
I partially tailored the build for the video, I figured most people watching would be looking for a traditional Japanese balltop.
I built a custom Happ/American arcade style stick for my own nostalgia fix
Nice vid! Very accessible mods and I like that you included some gameplay to round it out.
Glad you enjoyed it! 🙏
Great tips. I will follow these tips. Hated those buttons as a kid. They were used on everything in arcades n the UK.
Thank you, glad it was helpful!
Hey everyone!
I realized the audio becomes slightly desync'd during the "Closing thoughts" section. Sorry for the annoyance, it must have been an export issue; I'll keep an eye out for this in the future.
yo its that 4cm ball top ?
@@d0_nothing close, it's 3.5cm.
Here's the product: arcadeshock.com/collections/balltops/products/seimitsu-lb-39-clear-balltop-39mm-balltop-only-on-shaft-or-dust-cover
You didn't show the "glue" but I expect it's threadlocker (or you really wouldn't be able to get it open with a screwdriver). In that case it's actually pretty good that they have put that level of detail/care into protecting the screw threads!
Yeah, I notice a ton of rookie mistakes when I go back and watch this video; and I didn't get the camera to focus properly on the screws.
"glue" may not be the right word; specifically it's a crumbly off white sort of resin. I've seen it used as a cost saving measure in place of a proper threadlocker, not just in arcade sticks. It does the job more-or-less, but it's not a proper threadlocker like Loctite.
went and bought some soldering kit, so I can just connect the connector to the board, after that, most of the stick will be a lot easier to plug in, including those 8 pin arcade joystick
First video I watched of yours and I liked and subscribed, I hope you keep up the good work man!
Thank you so much 🙏
Just ordered parts for mine. I mainly use it for shmups and I had Seimitsu on my Virtua Stick 2 etc. But then I had to order from Japan since most parts were sold out in the Uk (I live in Sweden)
So I bought Sanwa Jlf and obsc-c buttons. Bought kowals actuator (For shorter throw) and a 4lb spring just in case and a bubble smoke top 😁
Nice picks! I've used a 4lb spring before on a jlf, the reset speed is great.
If the tension is too much consider a bat top. I found the extra leverage made a nice middle ground between fast resets and resistance.
Looks like those Concave caps are a third party addon from arcadestock "Classic Concave SOLID Caps for SANWA DENSHI 30mm Pushbuttons"
Yes that's exactly what they are! Thanks for letting me know I didn't make it clear enough. I really appreciate the constructive feedback while I'm still getting this channel of the ground. 👍
Awesome video - nice job ! Would love to see a PXN-0082 mod video. The buttons seem a bit trickier in that stick...
Thank you! Yes, the PXN 0082, to my knowledge, comes in two variants. One has the buttons soldered to a board, and the other uses some unusual wiring.
I'll consider covering it in the future 👍
Great video, I got one of these recently and am thinking about transplanting my sanwa buttons and seimitsu LS-33 over to it. I like the concave button mod, I may have to try that and see how it feels.
Thank you! An LS-33 should fit in there great, let me know how it turns out!
Awesome video, just bought one..
I bought mine the other day. They are using regular Phillips screws now. Also no glue at all.
same with mine :)
Thanks for letting me know! I've gotten a few comments like this so I think it's safe to say its a product wide change and not just variance
Nice work man!
Thank you so much!
For an NES-themed arcade stick controller, I would stick with 2 red buttons for B and A and 6 black buttons to represent nothing because back in the '80's, the NES controller had only two red action buttons.
Neat idea, I remember my NES. Good times
thanks for the video. do you have the same for the xbox 8bitdo stick?
because iam going to mod that one and would appreciate info regarding that.
where did you get that gameboy tshirt? looks cool!
Nice video. I've been building a couple of retro arcade sticks out of Oak. Great fun project. Where do you buy you buttons and joysticks from? Cheers
Thank you! There are three main shops to buy from in the US.
arcadeshock.com
focusattack.com
paradisearcadeshop.com
13:27 ~ 13:33 Hmm...I guess that IS something that someone would say after playing with their joystick...
It looks like they have the same kind of plates in there.. Do you think it's possible to add more plates to make it heavier? To me the stick isn't heavy enough as when really fast movements to escape dizzy and grabbed states it comes off the desk and bangs up and down on the desk a lot.
Mine was the same having excess material on the tabs holding the gate on. I didn't notice at first and almost broke a tab
Thanks for this video. I recently bought this stick (my first) for playing shmups and was looking to install a more responsive lever - the stock feels very loose to me. I found a lot of conflicting information out there though about which levers would fit, with some people saying that you’d have to cut holes in the bottom of the case to fit some Seimitsus.
Watching a few videos though, I’ve realised there seem to be different models out there - your metal base plate had a large space in it, whereas others have just a small hole where the lever sits. Can I just, check, you didn’t do any routing or filing etc to get the LS-56 to fit? And if the 56 fits, do you think an LS-40 would?
Glad you enjoyed it!
I believe the base plate with the small hole was from the original or a very early run. Mine is exactly as it came out of the box, no modification.
For the LS-40 I can do you one better than guess. I have one and can verify it fits in without issue. Just tested it 👍
I have an early run with the smaller well for the lever and can confirm that an LS-56-01 bottoms out ever so slightly on the bottom of the case. Still trying to figure out a plan of action, as it can’t need more than a millimeter or so of space, as it performs fine until I put the screws back in the bottom.
Great vid. What stick did you use instead and where did you get that ball top??
Thank you! It's a Seimitsu LS-56-01, and the ball top is a Seimitsu "LB-39 Clear Bubble Top". The top is a standard threading, so it will work on most any joystick, not just Seimitsu ones.
You can find them on any of the major arcade shops sites. I bought mine from Arcade Shock.
The joystick: arcadeshock.com/collections/joysticks/products/seimitsu-ls-56-01-joystick
The ball top: arcadeshock.com/collections/balltops/products/seimitsu-lb-39-clear-balltop-39mm-balltop-only-on-shaft-or-dust-cover
@@Hops_fgc thank you!
Where do I purchase the buttons you used, or at least the ones very similar, including the concave tops?
I don't mean this as a critism, I am just curious -- why replace the stock stick at all if you bought and installed an octagonal gate? Did you simply want a square gate?
Hey, no worries!
I know octagonal gates are a very popular upgrade, so I wanted to show how to do it. But I was also trying to cover how to change the stick out completely, and make a 5pin connector work.
But yes, typically I do use square gates.
hey man, thanks for the video very informative! any Idea if there's a way of running LED buttons on this?
You're welcome, and thank you!
For LEDs, yes and no.
Officially, no. There's no pin or spot to solder a wire for "VCC" to provide power to the lights.
Unofficially, sort of. It's possible to piggyback off the battery (and direct power) by soldering wires onto the side of the board the pins stick up. I've also heard of adding in a Raspberry Pi Pico as another board to control the lights. I don't know much about this, but I did find a Reddit thread talking about both these options here: www.reddit.com/r/fightsticks/comments/r29or0/vcc5v_location_on_8bitdo_arcade_stick/
Hopefully that can get you headed down the right path.
nice video, one question though..are the stick meant to be loose or tight? mine was kinda spin with the lever if i make a movement with the stick
Thank you! Do you mean the default 8BitDo stick? Yes, that stick is very loose, both in the sense that it has very soft actuation and it spins easily.
Most levers have some amount of spin to them, but the default on this is particularly spinny
Yes, I'm searching like crazy for the concave button tops in yellow and I cant find any for the life of me. I've got a sanwa JLF stick and the sanwa buttons come with the stick, however?, the button tops are round and I want concave tops. Any help would be great. Thanks.
I assume you have standard 30mm Sanwa buttons, these are what you want: arcadeshock.com/collections/pushbuttons/products/classic-concave-solid-plungers-for-sanwa-denshi-30mm-pushbuttons
On the off chance you have 24mm buttons those are also on the site, look under "pushbuttons"
Any decent knife will Spyderco is the way to go 😊
Can you use OBSFE-30 buttons? What's the model joystick?
Yup, OBSFE-30s will drop right in.
For the joystick model do you mean the one that comes by default? It's not sold separately, so I'm not aware of what 8BitDo calls it. In the video I put in both a Sanwa JLF and a Seimitsu LS-56-01.
Was wondering if I could fit a couple Nintendo button assemblies in this (like on a VS cab)...how much space is there in terms of height inside for buttons?
Not as much as you'd imagine. The case is deceptively shallow, mostly due to the two heavy plates in the bottom half for weight. If you'd like exact measurements I can take them but off the cuff, if Nintendo arcade buttons are going to fit you'll likely need to remove the weights. And that might leave the stick weirdly light.
They should still fit, but those old Nintendo buttons are 27mm iirc, so the fit might be a bit off in the 8Bit's 30mm holes.
If you're open to other ideas and want an arcade stick with retro parts. I've built one of these with Happ style parts and a brook board, which came out very well: retroarcadecrafts.com/collections/case-panel/products/diy-happ-competition-arcade-fight-stick-joystick-metal-case-and-acrylic-panel-big-size?variant=29415268319255
It's a very roomy case, and has 28mm holes rather than 30mm which is better suited for retro parts. It's direct from China tho, so expect long shipping times
@@Hops_fgc I ended up ordering an enclosurevfrom all fight sticks that worked.
Damn, good video but I've been lookin everywhere for someone talkin about putting LED buttons in this. I've upgraded everything on mine except the new spring I'm waiting on and I want LED buttons but I'm startin to think this stick can't handle that.
Thank you! Questions about adding LEDs have come up before. The best information I've found so far is in this Reddit thread, but the solutions are very hack-y: www.reddit.com/r/fightsticks/comments/r29or0/vcc5v_location_on_8bitdo_arcade_stick/
It obviously has LEDs for the button indicators, so there's clearly a power source that can run them.
Given it's come up a few times I'm going to look into this. If I get it figured out I'll obviously make a video about it!
@@Hops_fgc you're the best! I hope your research brings you better results than mine. I was thinking the same thing like splitting the power off of the ones going to the panels but haven't found the right cords to make it happen. Got that notification bell rang for you, can't wait to see that video!
spyderco para sweet!
If I completely gut it and put new stick, buttons and a brook Pcb, can I disregard all the internal components? And can I use the stock macro buttons with the new PCB?
Obviously haven't done it myself, but from my experience with brooks and the space inside it might be a tight fit, but I think it should work.
Main issues I can imagine you running into are what to do with some of the smaller buttons and knobs in the upper left. They operate directly off of the 8Bit's board, so there's no prongs or anything to run over to the Brook. So I imagine they'd either end up as buttons that don't do anything, or they'd just be left empty.
The macro buttons on the right could be repurposed, though brook boards don't have macro capability. I think they'd end up having to be your start and select buttons. Because again, I'm not sure how you'd keep the existing ones functional.
Weird note but they seem to have switched to PH1 screws, or at least the one I bought that arrived Monday does. I was confused why my TR10 wasn't working until I shined a flashlight in there.
Sadly I stripped the head of one of the screws holding the joystick plate and don't have anything to help me remove it so I'm SOL.
Thanks for letting me know! I've gotten a bunch of comments letting me know about this. I've updated the pinned comment and put an update at the top of the video description as well.
@@Hops_fgc Oops, sorry for the redundancy! Hopefully the pin will put a stop to that :)
@@oromain no no, didn't mean it that way at all! Multiple comments helped me know this wasn't some one-off production oddity; so thank you for the input
Weird. Mine had no glue.
@RationalRampage: oh, weird. Thanks for letting me know!
will the Seimitsu LS40 fit inside this
Yeah, the LS-40 fits just fine
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Is the older version, apart from the screws, no different from the new one?
Not that I'm aware of. Seems to be a minor manufacturing change.
Any one have any knowledge on the Seimitsu arcade stick used? Is it better than the Sanwa JLF?
It's a LS-56, and it's Seimitsu's closest offering to Sanwa's JLF. Better is subjective, and mostly down to taste. They're both very well made.
Main differences are the LS-56 has a slightly higher spring tension (~1.2lbs vs ~0.9lbs) and it uses hinged switches that are also just a little higher tension. The LS-56 doesn't actuate as smoothly as a JLF, people who don't like it tend to describe it as a bit "sandy" feeling.
So it's a trade-off between a little stiffer and more intentional movement vs the JLFs softer, smoother movement.
@@Hops_fgc Hi.... Many thanks! Great explanation.
Hi, Thanks for the video, do you have a link for the top part of the button or how do I find them? thanks
Yup, you can find theme here at ArcadeShock: arcadeshock.com/collections/pushbuttons/products/classic-concave-solid-plungers-for-sanwa-denshi-30mm-pushbuttons
Where did you get the concave button inserts? Are they made by sanwa?
They're made by Arcade Shock: arcadeshock.com/collections/pushbuttons/products/classic-concave-solid-plungers-for-sanwa-denshi-30mm-pushbuttons
@@Hops_fgc thanks! I'm buying some, I love the old school look
ls-56 gang!
Just wanted to ask if it was possible to change the case for the componenrs themselves
Hmm, I'm sorry but I don't completely follow the question. Are you asking if you can move the buttons and joystick out and put them in a different case?
@@Hops_fgc yeah
Yeah, you could put them into most anything else. The buttons are standard 30mm snap-ins. And the joystick even has a universal mounting plate.
@@Hops_fgc Ight! Thank you!
a question, does the arcade stick works with hayabusa?
cuz looking at the height and size, it looks just right
Yes, it fits. I've actually swapped one into mine since making this video.
@@Hops_fgc thanks for the answer, because of the small size of the arcade stick, I am afraid the stick size will not fit, I hope I can replace the shaft if it is too short
@@maximusZ09 totally understandable concern. While it won't leave any extra room like a JLF, the Hayabusa absolutely fits.
And yes, the shaft is replaceable. Hayabusas use the same shaft design as JLFs. So you can swap in any extended JLF shaft
@@Hops_fgc that is really assuring, because I have planned to mod the arcade stick, especially the joystick, I feel the stock ver are quite loose for me
@maximusZ09 if that's your issue, you want to change the tension spring. Same story though, JLF springs will work. Default tension is a 1lb spring. Going up to a 1.5lb or 2lb spring is a good starting point.
Pretty simple mod, remove the eclip on the bottom of the shaft. Do it over a box or something, those clips love to go flying off. Then the actuator should pop out on its own with the spring.
Swap the default spring for your new one, put the actuator back over it. And lock it all back down with the eclip.
why would you ruin a stick by taking out the square gate
Not sure I follow, the LS-56 has a square gate
@@Hops_fgc You changed the gate on the generic stick. Fight stick noobs who see your video are more likely to go for this over the more expensive option of buying a new joystick. This is bad because an octagonal gate is just going to teach them to ride the gate, thus never learning to play properly.
@nucleon Ah, sorry. When you said, “ruin a stick” I thought you meant the *arcade* stick.
I have to disagree, though. My preference is increasingly for k-levers, which are all (basically) circle gates. So, I don’t see square gates as inherently superior. And if a single ~20 sub RUclips channel not even recommending something, but just showing it is enough to convince someone; that person was going to do it no matter what.
As for learning bad habits. Maybe a bit philosophical, but I see being wrong as a part of real growth. Correcting and contextualizing mistakes is important, and trying to skip every possible early mistake gets in the way of that.
Disagreements aside. Thank you for commenting, I appreciate it all the same!
The real question is, is it pronounced 8bit “doo” or “dough”?
Fun fact! Officially it's now "do". But it was "dough" originally to sound like "Nintendo". They changed it over copyright concerns that their name was too similar, and Nintendo could sue for copying them.
"doo".
I got it from the 8bitdo speaker.