That was super easy and helpful. I had already cut my felt not knowing the trick of having it face the dirsction the arrow would fly so Ill have to re-do that. I didnt know abot some of the tools so it looks like i need to do a bit more shopping. I just bought this as my first ever bow to try and get into the hobby. Thanks for the help. Cheers.
I'm so glad this video helped you on your journey! For a nocking point you can also Google for "how to tie a nocking point" that way you won't need the nocking point pliers and the brass ring, a bit of floss will work. A bow square and bow wax however will go a long way in your archery kit 🙂
Some archers claim that BH uses dacron. It doesn't, but M.Duck uses low stretch, low creep D1200 or D1600 dyneema string material; they are similar to BCY D97. All junxing/mandarin duck recurve bows use dyneema, not dacron polyester.
Always nice to learn about the string material. We have been informed by Black Hunter, which make the Mandarin Duck branded bows, that it is Dyneema indeed. Our comparisons still show that a speed gain and quieter bow with more advanced string material used in a flemish twist can be gained. On a side note Junxing and Mandarin Duck are not the same bow, the look nearly identical and are compatible but are easy to differentiate on 4 key elements. This is because there are 2 companies that copied from one another. We are planning a video on that, so stay tuned. Possibly one manufacturer also uses a different string material, which could create confusion.
It would not fit. The shape for the top and bottom limb match the shape on the riser. It would look wrong and more importantly the tiller would be off as the weaker limb would end up on the top that way. Have a look at 2:30mins and 10:08mins and you will note that the riser is shaped different on top and bottom and the limbs match that shape. Also in the general agreed way between all manufacturers, writing goes on the bottom (so it's the right way up for reading), and the decal (if any) on the outside at the top limb. The only difference would be for ILF limbs which are identical in form, shape and information but they always state which limb is top and which one is bottom.
@@ArcheryParkNZ I understand. Is it the new version that is uniform? The limbs with flat edges on both top and bottom? So the newer version has the writing at the top and the older one at the bottom?
@@idhcustomtoys The new version has square ends on riser and limbs. Still general convention is that the limb with the writing goes on the bottom, so that it can be read the correct way (letters right way up and facing the archer when held in bow hand). We used to have that version also and when we measured the draw weights of the individual limbs the weaker ones (which needs to go on top) was the one without writing. There are however many copy cats, so without knowing exactly where you got yours from it might be an exception. The only way to find out for sure in that case would be to measure the limbs individually to find the weaker one, or next best approach is to check tiller when strung one way and then the other way, and to go with what measures best. Black Hunter also doesn't pack instructions, so it might be the resellers opinion, which could be wrong as many on Ali, Wish etc. are not archers. You may also refer to Kramer's video instructions here: ruclips.net/video/zVyTkbvL6cI/видео.htmlsi=K8ICts8bpCufJdg1&t=368
@@ArcheryParkNZ It's the video on the Amazon page that states it. It is confusing for beginners as one image is the old style with the shaped limbs, and the next is the new style with the flat limb ends. I think the video has it incorrect after your instruction. In some of the other photos you can seen the writing on the bottom. Thanks for the replies and explanations. Really appreciate it.
@@idhcustomtoys You're welcome. Glad we could help. It's always best to buy directly from an archery shop, that way you support the sport and will ensure to get good advice in the future.
My black hunter recurve limbs are both the same shape. So there's know indicator of which is meant to be the top or bottom. There is a serial number on the bottom right side of each limb. With a 7A precursor of the serial number on one limb and a 7B on the other. I strung it up when I first got it, with the 7A on top. Since my bow doesn't have a unique shape on the limbs or riser. Does it matter where the 7A or 7B goes? Or do I just need to make sure that I mount them the same way every time?
Hi. You have a slightly different model to this one, it's a version that is parallel produced but simpler in it's shape and nowadays sold more often as the profit margin is higher for resellers. It's strange that you have no draw weight info written on one of the limbs - that would be the lower one. It actually matters, as you don't draw your bow at the centre but higher from it. You can measure the tiller which will tell you which limb is slightly stronger, that one should go at the bottom of your bow as it bends a little less than the top one. The serial numbers won't help. Good luck!
Primarily you should twist or detwist your string when you have the need to adjust your brace height. A twisted string also keeps the strands tighter together, in my opinion this leads to a longer life span. A completely untwisted string would also have less flex than a twisted one and might cause issues on the bow. However I have not heard that you must twist your string.
Complete newbie here... I keep seeing all these videos about how to install the point but I don't really understand where you get the measurement from? I think you said 11mm above 0? Is that what you should always set it at because I see different things on different videos
Hi. 11mm is a good place to start and is solely based on our experience over the years. For many bows and archers this generally gives a good result. Some tuning once you have developed your technique may improve your shooting. Things to look for to spot issues are: 1) A riding arrow flight: this points to nocking point to be either too high or too low 2) Getting hit or even small cuts from the arrow on the bow hand: This means that the nocking point is set too low.
As a shop we have decided to keep ordering the original model due to the bigger sight window compared to the version with the straight limb ends. Black Hunter keeps making both versions, but the original is more expensive, and the new version makes them more profit. You can find our shop here www.archerypark.nz, just note that we're in NZ. But I'm looking to offer this version in Europe eventually also, as we get a lot of questions about the original.
Get a premium string. Otherwise replace the factory string every 1000,1500 shots, alway check brace Hight if you got cheap strings, don't matter what the fuck they made from they stretch. I dare anyone to drop their brace height half too low and see if the limbs survive.. it's a dry fire 😮😮😮😊
@@compacteconomycar5300 think mine is at 6.5 on my Bh longbow, never had a problem, either . I'm guessing you don't let it drop an inch to 5? Did you pre stretch your string, Point is cheap strings will stretch over an inch I less than 100 shots, if brace height is too low it's bad for the bow and shit will 💔🙏💘🏹🇭🇲
@krownedklown420klik9 I make d97 strings at 6" unstretched and shoot 100-300 shots, then twist a couple until it's at 6" again. These bows are pretty resilient. My 60lb recurve will shoot a 385 grain arrow at 215fps all day. It's loud, but arrow weight plays more into bow breakage than brace height. I normally shoot a 590 grain arrow at around 190fps
You'll add a big variable if you don't use a nocking point. In my opinion the art of archery is to reduce variables as much as you can for maximum consistency. You could tie one, instead of using a brass ring. And yes you could use a ruler for the brace height, but you would struggle with it for a nocking point I think. A T-square is a great and very affordable tuning tool to own for any archer.
Thanks for noticing your currency error. If you ask around in the New Zealand archery community you would be delighted to hear from them how much we support them, sponsor tournaments, provide targets at near costs to clubs and more. We also offer a voluntary 2 year warranty on all products we sell.
I appreciate you making this video, my bow will be here this weekend and thanks to you i realized ahead of time that i was not fully prepared for it.
That was super easy and helpful. I had already cut my felt not knowing the trick of having it face the dirsction the arrow would fly so Ill have to re-do that. I didnt know abot some of the tools so it looks like i need to do a bit more shopping. I just bought this as my first ever bow to try and get into the hobby. Thanks for the help. Cheers.
I'm so glad this video helped you on your journey! For a nocking point you can also Google for "how to tie a nocking point" that way you won't need the nocking point pliers and the brass ring, a bit of floss will work. A bow square and bow wax however will go a long way in your archery kit 🙂
nice helping set video thanks good job 🤠
Cheers mate!
@@ArcheryParkNZ thanks👍
Some archers claim that BH uses dacron. It doesn't, but M.Duck uses low stretch, low creep D1200 or D1600 dyneema string material; they are similar to BCY D97. All junxing/mandarin duck recurve bows use dyneema, not dacron polyester.
Always nice to learn about the string material. We have been informed by Black Hunter, which make the Mandarin Duck branded bows, that it is Dyneema indeed. Our comparisons still show that a speed gain and quieter bow with more advanced string material used in a flemish twist can be gained. On a side note Junxing and Mandarin Duck are not the same bow, the look nearly identical and are compatible but are easy to differentiate on 4 key elements. This is because there are 2 companies that copied from one another. We are planning a video on that, so stay tuned. Possibly one manufacturer also uses a different string material, which could create confusion.
It says on the manufacturer notes that the limb with the writing goes on top.
It would not fit. The shape for the top and bottom limb match the shape on the riser. It would look wrong and more importantly the tiller would be off as the weaker limb would end up on the top that way. Have a look at 2:30mins and 10:08mins and you will note that the riser is shaped different on top and bottom and the limbs match that shape. Also in the general agreed way between all manufacturers, writing goes on the bottom (so it's the right way up for reading), and the decal (if any) on the outside at the top limb. The only difference would be for ILF limbs which are identical in form, shape and information but they always state which limb is top and which one is bottom.
@@ArcheryParkNZ I understand. Is it the new version that is uniform? The limbs with flat edges on both top and bottom? So the newer version has the writing at the top and the older one at the bottom?
@@idhcustomtoys The new version has square ends on riser and limbs. Still general convention is that the limb with the writing goes on the bottom, so that it can be read the correct way (letters right way up and facing the archer when held in bow hand). We used to have that version also and when we measured the draw weights of the individual limbs the weaker ones (which needs to go on top) was the one without writing. There are however many copy cats, so without knowing exactly where you got yours from it might be an exception. The only way to find out for sure in that case would be to measure the limbs individually to find the weaker one, or next best approach is to check tiller when strung one way and then the other way, and to go with what measures best. Black Hunter also doesn't pack instructions, so it might be the resellers opinion, which could be wrong as many on Ali, Wish etc. are not archers. You may also refer to Kramer's video instructions here: ruclips.net/video/zVyTkbvL6cI/видео.htmlsi=K8ICts8bpCufJdg1&t=368
@@ArcheryParkNZ It's the video on the Amazon page that states it. It is confusing for beginners as one image is the old style with the shaped limbs, and the next is the new style with the flat limb ends.
I think the video has it incorrect after your instruction. In some of the other photos you can seen the writing on the bottom.
Thanks for the replies and explanations. Really appreciate it.
@@idhcustomtoys You're welcome. Glad we could help. It's always best to buy directly from an archery shop, that way you support the sport and will ensure to get good advice in the future.
Is there space between shelf and side felt ? you seem to have butted them together .
I leave no space.
My black hunter recurve limbs are both the same shape. So there's know indicator of which is meant to be the top or bottom. There is a serial number on the bottom right side of each limb. With a 7A precursor of the serial number on one limb and a 7B on the other. I strung it up when I first got it, with the 7A on top. Since my bow doesn't have a unique shape on the limbs or riser. Does it matter where the 7A or 7B goes? Or do I just need to make sure that I mount them the same way every time?
Hi. You have a slightly different model to this one, it's a version that is parallel produced but simpler in it's shape and nowadays sold more often as the profit margin is higher for resellers. It's strange that you have no draw weight info written on one of the limbs - that would be the lower one. It actually matters, as you don't draw your bow at the centre but higher from it. You can measure the tiller which will tell you which limb is slightly stronger, that one should go at the bottom of your bow as it bends a little less than the top one. The serial numbers won't help. Good luck!
Is there a need to twist your string
Primarily you should twist or detwist your string when you have the need to adjust your brace height. A twisted string also keeps the strands tighter together, in my opinion this leads to a longer life span. A completely untwisted string would also have less flex than a twisted one and might cause issues on the bow. However I have not heard that you must twist your string.
Nock point height 11mm for split finger or 3 below
11mm works well for split finger. For 3 below I'd try a little higher and would suggest a 2nd nocking point as arrows often slide down using 3 below.
Complete newbie here... I keep seeing all these videos about how to install the point but I don't really understand where you get the measurement from? I think you said 11mm above 0? Is that what you should always set it at because I see different things on different videos
Hi. 11mm is a good place to start and is solely based on our experience over the years. For many bows and archers this generally gives a good result. Some tuning once you have developed your technique may improve your shooting. Things to look for to spot issues are: 1) A riding arrow flight: this points to nocking point to be either too high or too low 2) Getting hit or even small cuts from the arrow on the bow hand: This means that the nocking point is set too low.
Where would you order the original black hunter recurve exactly like the one in video?
As a shop we have decided to keep ordering the original model due to the bigger sight window compared to the version with the straight limb ends. Black Hunter keeps making both versions, but the original is more expensive, and the new version makes them more profit. You can find our shop here www.archerypark.nz, just note that we're in NZ. But I'm looking to offer this version in Europe eventually also, as we get a lot of questions about the original.
@@ArcheryParkNZ My bad... it's NZ dollar
The string is junk get a flemish twist. Mine shoots great with a bit of tuning
Get a premium string. Otherwise replace the factory string every 1000,1500 shots, alway check brace Hight if you got cheap strings, don't matter what the fuck they made from they stretch. I dare anyone to drop their brace height half too low and see if the limbs survive.. it's a dry fire 😮😮😮😊
I have a black hunter and made my own string at a 6" brace height. I've had it a year and shoot 2-300 aŕows a week and have never had a problem.
@@compacteconomycar5300 think mine is at 6.5 on my Bh longbow, never had a problem, either . I'm guessing you don't let it drop an inch to 5? Did you pre stretch your string,
Point is cheap strings will stretch over an inch I less than 100 shots, if brace height is too low it's bad for the bow and shit will 💔🙏💘🏹🇭🇲
@krownedklown420klik9 I make d97 strings at 6" unstretched and shoot 100-300 shots, then twist a couple until it's at 6" again. These bows are pretty resilient. My 60lb recurve will shoot a 385 grain arrow at 215fps all day. It's loud, but arrow weight plays more into bow breakage than brace height. I normally shoot a 590 grain arrow at around 190fps
At 20 yards you don't need a knock point😮, imho, and a normal ruler is fine too, not like your trying to instinctively hit a rabbit at 80 yards😂😂😂🎉
You'll add a big variable if you don't use a nocking point. In my opinion the art of archery is to reduce variables as much as you can for maximum consistency. You could tie one, instead of using a brass ring. And yes you could use a ruler for the brace height, but you would struggle with it for a nocking point I think. A T-square is a great and very affordable tuning tool to own for any archer.
oh NZ dollar my bad
Thanks for noticing your currency error. If you ask around in the New Zealand archery community you would be delighted to hear from them how much we support them, sponsor tournaments, provide targets at near costs to clubs and more. We also offer a voluntary 2 year warranty on all products we sell.