Many wonder what happened to this engine. Did he finally work? Yes, friends, it worked. I invite everyone to the premiere of the video, where I finally launch it. 02/19/2022 12:00 GMT+1 ruclips.net/video/1EP49XuejVM/видео.html
Hell yes. Unlike a lot of people that only post the stuff that makes them (supposedly) look better, this man left it all on the floor and posted the good, the bad and the ugly. I admire a man that is that confident. Awesome
I think you may have taken a lot of assumptions for valve size, intake duration, shape of inlet and outlet, etc. Check out the Coates Spherical Rotary Valve system. It is a similar idea of what you're trying to do here.
I’d say you are right! This idea would most like work with some tweaking of intake and exhaust ports. And timing who knows what kind of power it would have though, I’d say it would run.
Sir, I really enjoyed watching this video. The amount of work and effort put into making this engine was truly inspiring. I was captivated during every minute. Even if the end result was an engine that didn’t run, the skills that went into machining parts and fitting them together was truly inspiring. I am a journeyman diesel mechanic by trade, so now I too am wondering why this engine didn’t run, and what could be done to fix it. (It’s literally in my nature) So I have a suggestion for you sir. The spacing between “valves” or intake and exhaust ports may be too close or even too big. It just might be that the engine is dumping it’s compression through the exhaust port too soon. One thing I’ve learned during my career working on engines is timing is everything. Your little engine wanted to run, but most likely couldn’t because it was forced to dump its compression before complete combustion could take place. Again, only a suggestion. Maybe a 2nd look at your invention is warranted ? I look forward to seeing it run !!! And am definitely going to subscribe in hopes you do revisit this idea in the future. Stay safe my friend. God Bless and good luck !
17:48 - That is me almost every time I have a machining project. Marvelous video and project! Not only was your creativity in fabricating wonderful, your perseverance and attitude taught me so much.
Mate , you should cut piston ring grooves in the rotary valve ends and install wear sleeves in the head or completely sleeve the head and run piston rings to seal the head to valve . It may need two or three each side. But like people here have already said , recheck the ignition timing to make sure its correct. Use a timing light and a protractor to check the ignition timing , its very simple and it will remove any doubt. And its here I think the main problem lies. A simple engine like this will run on quite low compression as long as everything else is in parameters. Do a compression check and see , again it will give you a good idea. I've had simple engines like this run happily all day on 60 or so PSI. I remember as an apprentice 50 or so years ago an old Holden six cylinder ran like a top with only 70 PSI on all cylinders but I think the secret there was all six cylinders were all the same. Please don't give up on this engine, you have come too far to give up. The engine will probably never run anything useful but would be a good model to show and display. and be proud of. I love your work and I was transfixed to the monitor the whole time . Brilliant , just brilliant
It's amazing. But... your cylinder head need an upgrade about the position of the spark plug. The geometry of the head is more important than anything else. Sorry for my bad English. Good luck : )
Exactly he needs sleeves, on both sides for head to valve , and probably two between side to side like apex seals from a rotary madza or something like that
It's either valve or ignituion timing. At least it looks and sounds that way. Even with very little compression it should still be able to run with no load. I think it should run with some more adjustment. If you need a drill that big to turn it, it's probably not compression. It was absolutely amazing watching the whole process of the motor being built. Great work!
Completely agree, also some oil porting of some sort or coating to reduce friction on the valve shaft will be something nice to look into. I noticed that the resistance to rotate the engine increased as it warmed up, may have something to do with tolerances and differences in expansion coefficient in materials. I hope he doesn't give up his work
@@MrDanto2041 well absolutely, did you see how tight the Piston fit in the cylinder???? It should never be that tight! He needs a few more thousands removed from the bore. Absolutely way too tight! He didn't give any room for piston to wall clearance.
This is true. Either a tricky 2-part valve that's adjustable for timing or 2 rotary valves in that head. On initial start, engines "like" different timing and you'll need to adjust.
Love it. I,m a retired tool & die maker. But I was in racing my entire life. Drag racing, kart racing, on & on. I love watching guys as you. Experiment why your still have the drive you do. God l can connect with what your doing, just questing it seems like intake & exhaust Timing along with ignition. You get the three working together I think it will work. Take Normal internal combustion engine & a degree wheel , record each opening closing and The ignition timing & balance your engine to the one you recorded there degrees at. Keep Us posted my friend. It was trying, to start, I think your close, do not give up.
This is so much more than I ever saw being done in a 'garage'. Great engineering with heart & soul! No matter wether it worked or not , man, you are my hero! 🤗
С каким удовольствием я смотрел это видео! Не бросайте проект! Очень здорово, что Вы не растянули проект на миллион маленьких видео и выпустили все одним роликом!
Пылесос. лол Это чертовски смешно. Но при этом очень дорогой, а смотреть гораздо интереснее. Если это плохо переведено, вы можете обвинить Google в этом. Спасибо, Альфредо из Техаса. ✌️ I hope he does not abandon this project, it still might work, with some shims or better bearings with the Cylindrical Intake shaft manifold. I think, that's his major problem, he needs better bearings to seal the upper cylinder head.
Я тоже залип на этом видео и смотрел его без перекуров. Вот основные причины по которым ваш двигатель не завелся: 1. вы сделали 4-х тактный двигатель у которого все такты происходят за 1 оборот коленвала, в четырехтактниках все такты проходят за два оборота коленвала. За один оборот коленвала все такты проходят только в двутактных двигателях и в роторно - поршневых, а в вашев двигателе я не увидел продувочных каналов. 2. вы крутили против часовой стрелкисвой двигатель, попробуйте покрутить свой двигатель в другую сторону, т.е. по часовой стрелке. 3. в системе зажигания на вашем моторе нет возможности регулировки угла опережения зажигания, искра должна быть не в верхней мертвой точке, а чуть раньше в.м.т. 4. передача от коленвала на вал фаз газораспределения должна быть 1:1, а у вас одна звездочка чуть больше другой, сделайте звездочки одинаковыми. Кроме этого, попробуйте немного сместить в.м.т. относительно вала фаз газораспределения в ту или другую сторону. Удачи вам в ваших экспериментах!
Your craftsmanship is amazing. my heartfelt congratulation to you. I strongly believe you should continue this project and this will definitely succeed. I suggest 3 modifications: 1.about the compression issue use rotary seal on both side intake and exhaust between the pipe and body. 2. in IC Engine valve timing is very very important to run a engine. i suggest instead of a single pipe inlet/exhaust. make it seperate and then fasten it face to face, by that you can change inlet vs outlet angle(which is now fixed). also timing with respect to crank rotation can be managed by usual timing chain shift as we do in conventional ic engine. 3. you have to manage the spark timing, which can be managed by making the pick up coil adjustable. degree forward or backward. cause you know spark is not at TDC , you need to adjust that. i strongly believe you will definitely succeed in this. i am ready to volunteer help in this project to make it success. feel free to reply. i will clarify.
I invent things and have 3 patents, this was so familiar, most ideas are like this, however when you have a win, it makes up for the losses. Keep going, you will have your victories!
Your face when you make a mistake is priceless! I am just a layman but even I can see many advantages. No cam needed, no tappets/pushrods, no valve clearance issues, less weight, potential higher rpm, no loss due to valve springs and easy to change characteristics of inlet/exhaust timing. Brilliant concept and I admire your dedication and that you can still laugh afterwards. SUBBED
Something very similar was done on a 5 litre Ford V-8 in early 2000's. It could rev to 10,000 rpm as it didn't have poppet valves .It didn't have any oil feed to top end either using carbon ceramic bearings which also acted as seals. A few years earlier I came up with something very similar as well but couldn't figure out how to make it work on more than a single cylinder (designed around a Honda 90 engine)
I came here after seeing the video of it running! Awesome! Now I understand why it burns/exhausts/intakes so much oil,though. The oiling tube,besides oiling the 'cam' (for lack of a better term) is probably pushing oil into the intake/exhaust ports in the 'cam' on every cycle..so it smokes a lot and has oil coming from the exhaust. I assume it is also pushing oil into the intake port on every cycle,which might eventually fill the cylinder and 'hydrolock' the engine..or maybe just blow out the rings. (also, you probably don't need the 2-stroke mix for fuel,it's already got oil everywhere.) My initial thought is,instead of perforating the oiling tube along the whole length,maybe just perforate it where the ports _aren't_ ,and keep the area over the ports solid,so less oil can get in there.
You are my hero, attempting to do what most would call the impossible without a computer. Saying that it also seems like it is an issue with timing or fuel starvation, I honestly have no idea it is just a thought from someone who knows nothing about the build of engines. Keep going with this project as my pop used to say ya gonna find the solution. Brilliant Video.
This engine will work. Ignition needs to be advanced on low compression engines. I would try radiussing the flutes on cam. Possibly advancing cam to open intake before TDC. Keep playing with it and it will purr like a kitten...
I was going to say exactly that. You can tell the timing isn't right because there's exhaust blowing out the carb. Like when he got sprayed in the eyes towards the end. Watch the mist coming out of the can of starter fluid. Plus, if compression is the issue, make a little bit longer rod. Or make/find/buy a new piston. Probably, it's easier to just make a rod for it.
Plenty of compression for that to run, especially with the starting juice. I'm going to guess timing is very critical but I have no experience with rotary valve engines. You are one hell of a machinist and should keep going with this idea. I am definitely subscribing. Fantastic work!
I agree! And also agree he should try getting the port size and timing right! He needs to make another video doing it! He's definitely got plenty of attention for the views!!
There are many things to admire in this video! But what I admire the most is the fact that You manage to laugh after having to extinguish a fire on Your engine using a powder extinguisher... That really takes a special kind of mindset :)
It has to be an issue of intake and exhaust timing. This was SO cool to watch while eating my morning breakfast. Whether it worked or not you are very skilled with your lathes. Subscribing for sure!
You can not give up on this! Double check "valve" overlap timing and also ignition timing (5-10deg BTDC) and get a static compression ratio number (IE 8.3:1) to see where you are in the design. And of course do a compression test(800-1000kPa preferred)
Definitely ignition timing when it backfired through the carburetor 180° out. Also your first mag coil was grounded out on the case it was arcing by the intake flange.
@@LionHeartOG I noticed the arc at around 3 o'clock on the intake flange, but it appears to be the work light on the drill shining thru the cooling fins on flywheel. I also believe that U need some sort of timing adjustment, as well as some way to advance it a higher RPM. Once U get the compression leak around the camshaft fixed. Keep plugging, U will get it!
Its seems as if the timing is off just fractionally, not sure how much compression you are getting but if that is close to enough, I think with different timing it could run.
When he first tried, it was definitely too far advanced, hence the kick-back. You are correct, with the timing retarded slightly it will run. Good work and good video in all.
You are very good! I am a retired tool die and mold maker. You have a lot of experience from what little supplies you have. It is fun watching your videos. You don't waste any time. You get to the point and you even show mistakes which happens to everybody! Did you go to school for Machining or did you pick this up yourself? I watch every move you make. You have a lot of experience.
@@mwigmedia you're welcome for the kind words! I have built over 90 internal-combustion engines for racing, stock, and custom cars. I understand all the processes that you went through. I would seriously continue on trying different timing, volume combinations, stroke increase to get this motor to run. You're not far off.
I will give you an "E" for effort. The way it was shooting flames out the exhaust I will say it's in the timing, most likely between the valves and your design of intake. KEEP TRYING ! don't ever give up. Lots of luck to you my friend.
As a machinist this is really nice to see someone knowing how to make due with what he has and creating something beautiful. Btw, one small piece of advice start your threads on the milling machine. Just put the tap in the chuck, Realesse the quill and turn it by hand. That way they are going to come out straight every time. A shame it didn't end up working
love your work. First we must try, then try again. Your idea of rotary valve is a great idea. sealing between each phase, intake and Exhaust maybe where you are loosing compression. keep going, you are almost there :) Dave from Australia
I love that you were confident enough to spend weeks of extra time making it look great and having enough cooling design with fins etc. when you were trying to test whether your concept idea would work or not, and then tried to immediately start it without measuring the compression or timing hahaha. Definitely enjoyed this.
Wow this is a very impressive achievement. And I watched your second video with it running, will done. But there is some significant improvement to do for the valve port timing. I would mill the ports at an angle so they twist slightly round the shaft. And then considering the opening of the cylinder head you should have a small overlap of exhaust open as intake opens, only a few degrees. Plus some way to adjust spark timing by rotating the coil around the flywheel to get the optimal timing, should be 8-12 degrees before TDC. I think your engine could be very successful with some fine tuning but very well done to achieve this already.
As a mechanic I really appreciate people who are like yourself because without people who try to do something new we wouldn't have any modern engines you kind of reminded me about the story of the man who broke the land speed record back on an old Harley or Indian but without people who try we wouldn't have powered flight and to be honest you have some nice engineering machines but its the humans that get everything right i mean seriously your engine would start no problem if you wanted to make it O.H.C or 2stroke but the idea itself was really quite clever,the idea of the Rotary probably had issues at the start..
The man who created the rotary engine also created most of the curse words we use today, true story lol..j/k, but yea much respect for people who take on challenges like this, definitely a rare breed
I feel your "valve tube" may beneffit from the use of piston rings running in groves to separte the inlet and outlet and tre outside and keep in compression. Should be a "simple" thing to machine a few groves and find some small engine rings. Well anyway. Fantastic work ! Fantastic video! Amazing entertainment.
Its so amazing seeing a design process and seeing all the steps. I think its awesome that you shared this journey through this project even though it didnt work. Stuff like this is what we can use to learn the most.
I’ve been working on trying to eliminate the valves for over 25 years. Tried rotating plates, sliders, reed valves, all with problems. Good luck. Hope your a better man than me.
Look at the cylinder head at 21:12. If he had just put the camshaft completely inside the bore, and just cut ports out for the camshaft channels, the engine would have ran after being dialed in. Trust me.
@@Cat-fy5lw this is the reason why that engine will never work. The cam rotates 1/2 the speed of the engine. Therefore the cam will rotate 90 deg. with 1 stroke of the engine. Now say you have a 1/2 port and you have a 3.5 stroke. With a rotating port, the port starts to open at 0 deg. It won’t start to close until 90 deg. So let’s say you have a 3 in. cam with a 1/5 in. port. The cam will have to rotate another 19 deg. to close the port. the port will still be open on the up stroke. It will take another 19 deg. to close it. That’s about 3/4 in. on the up stroke. If it don’t work on paper it don’t work in the real world.
There is another issue you may not have thought about, heat from exhaust affecting intake since they are on the same valve and heat transfer is imminent. But really good idea overall, I am impressed.
Have been knocking this idea around for decades. Couldn't come up with a way to positively seal rotary valves, intake and exhaust probably must be seperate or firing engine could ignite intake charge (or at least cancel intake vacuum) . Also firing pressure is much higher than static pressure so good seals essential. Glad to see it this close to working, eager to see your next iteration. 10👍/10👍
Yamaha built a rotary valve engine many years ago. I don't know what they used for valve seals but it ran and had a very flat power curve. My brother and I were considering to build a rotary valve V8 but still have to contend with seals. Other than low compression, maybe your valve timing is off, with both intake and exhaust being open.
The intake and exhaust ports should probably be neuraled so they can also act slightly as flow pumps, adjust duration and allow for a closer machine fit without edge to edge binding, shaft should also be sleeved. I think timing should be advanced a tooth or two and intake needs a better seal. His ignition timing may also be to far advanced.
The system I describe above solved that problem with extremely minute tolerances, the valves were circular with circular edges across the depth, that fit exactly into a rounded groove, each side had a valve through it and then for some reason out the flat side instead of straight through, I mean if they were straight it would eliminate the poppet valve and it being directly in the way of air flow, just an "X" through it and offset on the shaft so that the timing was correct. Their website said the shaft with the valves was gear driven, directly connected to the crankshaft. Which I think is Brilliant and will attempt to engineer a set for the performance car build I'm working on, possibly a little transmission for VVT to adjust maybe a CVT for a bicycle....
It almost started several times, I do believe the problem is that you needed a way to adjust your coil around the flywheel so you can advance or retard the spark timing in reference to top dead center (TDC) of the piston, that would allow for easier start-up of the motor. Most engines fire at 8 deg. Before TDC, but if you could adjust your coil position it will change your TDC firing position.
This is the ONLY instance where I watched a 57:05 video an it's entirety. Love everything about this video. The fact that you kept all the mishaps in the video speaks volumes about your character and more specifically your ego. Sub'd, Liked Shared 🙏🏻👊🏻
More important than the machine itself is your dedication to finish your mechanical machined idea. All inventions of machinery are a 3 dimensional question "Will this idea work", and "Does it do what I think it will"??? good job. I designed a steam engine with a rotary valve in the head. If there is not enough speed control in your system of 2:1 you might consider driving a cam shaft and operating rotary valves off of it. Good job!
This is awesome…. i have been talking about this type of camshaft or port shaft to my friends for several years. Very cool to see someone trying to develop it!
It may be that the timing is off a few degrees. Most cams open the valves up to 15 degrees or more before TDC since it takes time to get the air flowing.
It seems to me like a timing issue, either with ignition or cam timing or both. I would double check the ignition timing events, otherwise you might be opening the exhaust too early or closing the intake too late, bleeding off your dynamic compression.
@@Anonymous-oy6rj The huge slot exposing the entire side of the camshaft at 21:12. The space between the camshaft and bore is letting compression escape like a corrupt jailhouse warden. To fix that, I would move the camshaft up by a couple centimeters and have two small elliptical ports leading into the combustion chamber. Another guy suggested that it could also be the timing. I'm thinking he might be right.
Such a beautiful build! And it seems just on the edge of running... I can't wait to see the next video, apparently you have it running there! I am watching this over a year late, but thanks for the hard work designing, machining, recording, editing this video (and more I am sure). Yours is a top-notch channel!
Yes!...a fantastic piece of work, and exactly the kind of pioneering spirit that got us to where we are today. About one hundred years ago, an American manufacturer tried to market a car using a similar style of tubular valve. As ever, the problem of sealing was not solved. Somewhere, I have an article on this car which was written-up by the magazine, "Automobile Quarterly". I can't remember the name!...However, I will do a little research and report on any findings.
It doesn’t SOUND like a compression issue to me. I’ve seen old engines that had 30psi compression (I consider 90psi and less to be low on most engines) fire right up and ring great. Sounds to me like timing. Try advancing your ignition timing a little, maybe slowing it. If that doesn’t work try messing with the rotary valve timing a little. You’re definitely on to something though. Considering that it’s a 65mm (or whatever it was) bore that looks to be fair compression.
My thoughts exactly. Backfiring and the flames from the exhaust side suggest late ignition. The fuel is igniting after the exhaust is open. Ignition system did not look adjustable from what i could see when he assembled it.
with this intake-exhaust design, you could build a variable timing engine by using a split shaft, a second chain and some levers to change the phase of the intake bore. if i'm not wrong, a variable timing setup can save your engine from being a fail project. good luck!
If I remember correctly your theory is correct. I remember reading about a gentleman who made the same type of engine for formula one. It was quite a while ago and I don't know if it ever made it into production, but it does work. Also, I didn't see a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder sleeve. Rings will not seal properly without that. Try hoeing the sleeve. And from what I see it looks like maybe a timing issue. I could be wrong but might be something to look into. Please don't give up on this. I am routing for you. I do believe you will make it work.
Norton also tried that in the 60s, main issues were sealing (no joke 🤣) and mixture motion not adequate ( low charge motion leads to slower combustion ) I think Apfelbeck tried it also but not sure.
Great job! Heard the rotary's Achilles heel is the compression and exhaust escaping. One rotary pin design I saw had 6 seals on the pin. 3 on the left and 3 on the right. It looked similar to seals and o ring designs I've seen on diesel hydraulics and tubes/pipes. This presumably to correct the compression/exhaust issue.
It might not have worked, but it's a beautiful work of art. It deserves to be on display at the Museum of Ideas. Don't give up on your projects and crazy things. Perseverance is the spring that drives success. Greetings from Brazil.
Слишком много непонятного, так что тут долго можно угадывать почему он не запустился. В частности: что за канал на 29:12 и для чего, не известно какая степень сжатия, нет перекрытия фаз газораспределения. Так что даже если запустится, работать будет не стабильно.
@@mwigmedia здравствуйте. Я тут давно. Люди очень часто ищут всего одну причину неисправности: если один мотор не запускается, значит этому есть одна причина. Заблуждение, из-за которого мои клиенты неделями крутили карбюратор при отсутствии компрессии, а потом тащили всё это счастье ко мне. Гильза из чего сделана? Хон на ней есть? Насчёт перекрытия фаз: с этой проблемой сталкивался Виктор Синельников, когда строил свой первый мотор т40.
Мне кажется, но это не точно! Первое на, что нужно обратить внимание это фазы ГРМ, так как воздух в карб дует. Второе нужно с распредвалом разобраться, что-то придумать, типа какие-то манжеты либо как на моторном двигателе "апексы", тогда должно поехать, но это не точно
Фазы впуска - выпуска не отрегулированы. Момент искры тоже, при этом искра бьёт два раза за четыре такта вместо одного. Карбюратор не соответствует объёму двигателя, камера сгорания не имеет нужной степени сжатия. Задумка отличная, осталось довести до ума. Хочется увидеть продолжение. С меня подписка.
Даная система газораспределения не даёт надёного сжатия горючей смеси. Нет плотности. Распредвал пропускает газы. Вот поэтому в первый раз загорелся карбюратор. Надо переделывать только на клапана. Чтоб распредвал держал компрессию надо, чтоб он плотно сидел в скользящих подшипниках. При сильно плотности распредвал не сможет вращался, его заклинит. Вот всё одно с другим связано. Надо делать класическе клапана.
@@papa58857 Ну Вам-то конечно виднее о плотности узла распредвал - головка, ведь вы принимали участие в проекте и сделали все необходимые замеры и расчёты... В случае плохого уплотнения этот двигатель должен постоянно "чихать" , при чём в обе стороны одновременно. Могу сказать лишь одно, что двигатель с обычной системой работает и с не притертыми, и с зажатыми клапанами. Не идеально конечно, но всё-же работает. И если всё дело в уплотнении, то человеку надо всего лишь проточить пазы под резиновые уплотнения - колечки, и убедиться в этом. Узел будет не вечным, но времени на выяснение причины хватит. И если всё-же причина в отвратительном уплотнении, то можно подумать об реализации уплотнения, использующегося в роторных двигателях.
I've been a mechanic, machinist, racer, and fabricator for about 55 years, and this is the best video on this subject, and this guy is a very good machinist, at the very least, but a brilliant creator. The bragging out of the way, the small flywheel would have been a big mistake. I did a little engine design for a company called Wisconsin\Robin.
Here's a suggestion. Make the intake and exhaust slots in a slight helix around the tube. By increasing or decreasing the twist, you can change the duration of intake/exhaust timing during the intake and exhaust stroke.
Чтобы деталь крутилась в детали, нужно иметь между ними зазор не менее 0.05 мм. Это не герметично для газов. Есть другой способ убрать этот зазор полностью. На одной детали нужно сделать канавку и утопить в неё на пружинке шторку, которая будет всегда притираться с движущимся валом, стенкой корпуса. Такая деталь уплотнения стоит в воздушных высокооборотистых шуруповертах, которые работают безотказно 20 000 часов (проверенно мною) и им хоть бы что. И сделать их можно не из металла, а высокотемпературного пластика, текстолита. Всего то делов, прострогать канавку и вставить на пружинке текстолит. Это будет герметичнее и надёжнее клапанов. С компрессией можно справиться. Другое дело нагар и его воздействие на стенки как абразив. Смазка движущихся частей, которые на сухую не должны работать. И это тоже легко решается, если перед компрессионной пластиной из текстолита поставить одно или два компрессионных пластины из твёрдого металла, как у обычных компрессионных колец, с дополнительной маслосъемный пластиной. Без них компрессию не создать. Но пластины на пружинке будут работать 100 лет в отличии от колец поршней, срок работы которых ограничен конструкцией поршня. Так что это очень хорошая идея, создать двигатель облегчённый, надёжный, без громоздкой ГРМ. Это двигатель будущего, для самолётов, планеров, ЛЛА, мотоциклов и машин. Продолжайте дорабатывать !
@@RealBlackFalcon Это элементарно Ватсон ! У поршневого кольца упругость колец падает в квадрате от выработке колец и стенок цилиндра и зазор в кольцах - основная потеря компрессии двигателя. Нагар под кольцами - основная причина выхода их из строя из за залипания. Какое бы качественное топливо не было использовано. От масла моторного ни куда не денешься. Упругость кольца ограничена её конструкцией, больше не сделать при всём желании. У шторок никакого зазора нет и не может быть, а усилие прижатия может регулироваться не ограничено, как механическим способом, пружиной и регулировочной пластиной, эксцентриком, так и пневматическим, гидравлическим способами. Множество вариантов. Всегда можно держать компрессию под контролем. Ресурс мотора напрямую зависит от выработки поршневой группы. Салфетка нужна для другого дела. Тесла (без салфетки) ни сделал ни одного письменного расчёта, а его изобретения до сих пор никто не повторил. Мотор Кавасаки сделан был чисто экспериментальным путём, по интуиции, и его двигатель считается не превзойдённым шедевром мирового моторостроения до сих пор. Это было время безотказных двигателей миллионников. Практика, опыт - фундамент науки, но никак не наоборот.
Что скажете насчет роторного двс от Liquid Piston? Вот это как по мне реально двигатель будущего. Повышенный значительно кпд, возможность изготовления под разные виды топлива вплоть до дизеля! При этом малые габариты вкупе с большой производительностью.
I love all of the engineering in this video. I also really like that you kept your mistakes, as it always helps to see that no engineer is perfect all of the time.
I haven't viewed much of this yet, but I assume it is a 2 stroke motor where the pressures in the bottom end are vented (transferred) through the cylinder ports.
I theorized the rotating valves 50 years ago but never came up with a functional sealing system for lubricant and engine hot gases. I applaud your effort to build your prototype.
If valve installing was made as a split head it would be possible to use sealing rings on valve tube. It would greatly improve sealing of combustion games and allow use of seals for tube lubrication. I know just boring holes for valve shafts seems direct but making top and bottom to assembly allows more control of overall sealing. Very similar to put to case halves together. Intake valving could also be improved by using a Reed valve to prevent back flow on poor sealing of rotating shaft as some clearance is needed to prevent shaft from grinding against housing. When thinking about my solution, thing of how multi cylinder. 2 strokes seal individual crankcase spaces to isolats each cyl.
I had the same idea back in the 1970's. Good to see someone actually attempt it. I also enjoyed the effort. My idea was to spin the camshaft at 1/4 crankshaft speed and use isolated thru-shaft ports that sent the that opened every cycle but in opposite direction through the shaft. Idea you had is similar, but the ports open to the ends. Mine would have opened straight across to a manifold or similar collection part. Good luck, and look at that piece you placedin the intake and bent down. it may not be doing what you thought.
This design is called a rotary valve. The design has a long and very interesting history dating back to 1919, and going so far as use in Formula 1. A quick Wikipedia search will provide some history, and there are RUclips videos on the WGN W12 Formula 1 effort.
Rotary valve engines have been around for a long time, well over 100 years. They always come up against the same two problems, lubrication of the mating rotary surfaces and sealing. Nobody, even very experienced developers like Cosworth have been able to solve these issues. The nearest solution was sleeve valves as used in the Napier Sabre and Bristol Centaurus and Hercules engines. However if you watch a video of one of these engines starting, you will immediately see the problem in today's pollution conscious world. A Bristol Centaurus when starting, can cover a whole airport with burnt oil smoke.
Don't forget the Coates Spherical Rotary Valve, they've been trying to get that thing working for decades now. It probably had the most promise out of all of them but after 30 years they still haven't been able to get anything on the road beyond a few prototypes.
with fire in the intake i think spark was too advanced (firing when intake was still open). unless that was fire from the overly rich mixture still burning in the cylinder past the exhaust stroke
@@thebluelunarmonkey There was a few little issues and ignition timing did seem to be too far advanced. Even if it requires that advance to run, it may require heavy retard to be started.
@@thebluelunarmonkey I'd tend to think too much spark advance would've made it try to fire but kick back on most every combustion stroke that had an ignitable mixture in the cylinder. Your 2nd thought is likely correct, that carb fire was from excessive fuel that got puked all over the thing, IMHO.
as you mentioned about low compression, cylinder leak down has always been one of the main problems with that type head design. great job though don't ever quit exploring and creating your ideas.
As somebody who makes software, I'm incredibly impressed by the skill of this man. One mistake and all his previous work is ruined - with software it's just edit and recompile.
Really enjoyed this. I have seen a similar system that DID work. It was done by someone in the Netherlands on a Zündapp two stroke moped who turned it into a four stroke this way. My idea is you need to use cast iron for the cilinder and last finish should by done by 'honing'. That should improve the compression. Stainless steel also expands too much when hot so even if the engine would have fired up, compression would soon drop. As for the in- and outlet, you could try to seperate the channels with an O-ring. I get the impression that when you try to start it, it wants to backfire into the carburettor, in fact that's what probably caused your little fire there. I wouldn't just throw this project away. Give it some more thinking and I'm sure you will succeed in the end. Good luck!!
I agree on all your suggestions except the o rings which would degrade quickly because of heat. i would suggest sealing ring similarly use in automatic transmission along the intake/exhaust shaft to isolate each port and eliminate compression lost.
@@tverrettsr It's the heat (and how to handle it) which is the most determining factor in this proces. using any sort of rubber based sealing is hard to combine close to where the combustion proces occurs. I mean: look at exhaust valves used on two-stroke MX-bikes which involve any kind of rubber sealings... that's where it always goes wrong. Still... I do believe this concept can work; still trying to find my copy of that magazine 'Bromfiets' which covered that Zündapp using a similar system. 🙂
51:56 this engine has two ignition points: one is on combustion stroke and the other one is on intake stroke, because the flywheel touches the coil twice during the 4 cycles instead of once. that's why you get flame out of carburator -- it ignites leftover fuel when intake is about to happen. the easiest solution might be to put the flywheel on the valve shaft rather than the crankshaft.
There is merit to your deductions and some science to go along with it but in small motor industry practice the waste spark magneto coil engine is common practice and runs off the crank timing. Briggs and straton run this type of spark system and the second spark happens on the exhaust stroke. The spark timing should be before top dead center by about 20 to 30 degrees on a coil magnet ignition system. So when the other spark fires it is firing early in the exhaust stroke. In a briggs and stratton style engine the spark plug is offset to the combustion chamber, this is to do with flame front timing and operating window improvements in part due to the lack of a distributor and the advanced low engine speed timing. But to further explore the idea and eliminate the second wasted spark a crude way to kill one of the two sparks would be to bypass it to earth by having a very close gap and a lobe on the cam gear that wipes past the a peg at less than 2 thou away or even in spring contact. the spark at that time will jump that gap rather than the 10 thou gap at the plug. thus on that phase it would not fire in cylinder.The down side is aggressive bearing wear on the cam shaft. The reason I mention there is science behind your observation is in the large more costly single cylinder engines a contact point set is used to control spark timing or a timing controller with a Electronic CDI unit is used that helps eliminate either waste spark or dynamically change the spark timing to suit engine speed to predicted flame front speed.
@@shanewilson3653 I agree that if the engine works correctly then the extra ignition can't really ignite anything as there'll be only exhaust gasses in the cylinder when it fires. However, with engines like these it's common to not have ignition on some strokes (because of fuel mixture or a weak spark) and then misfiring on the intake stroke is dangerous because it fires through the carburetor that's really not amazing as it's pretty much guaranteed to cause a fire. Btw the offset angle of the distributor does not have to be electronically controlled, it can be offset hydraulically or mechanically driven by the engine RPM. I don't think it's relevant for a small engine like this though.
If your objective was to produce a working rotary-valve engine, be prepared to endure a thousand more iterations. If your objective was to become an even-more-competent machinist, designer and thinker, you've succeeded. Again. If your objective was to create another hour of uniquely compelling content ... well, I can't wait until your next installment!
I don't know, the Bristol Centaurus was used in British aircraft and Norton designed a two cyl race engine but it was plagued by the companies failing sales so no Capitol was available for newer designs.
@@terjeoseberg990 People already have figured out how to make them work. A lot of experimental stuff with internal combustion around the turn of the century. But for whatever reason they fell out of favor or production in the 1920's. (I'd guess issues with keeping a seal on the valve drum due to wear or scoring?) His best bet would be to look for historical examples and archival blueprints. Having a modern take on such a design would still be fun to get working.
Maybe run the intake and exhaust on two separate shafts, with it popping back through the intake it’s definitely a timing issue. Definitely on to something, don’t give up.
Scrapers on the the cam walls, think of them like compression rings on the piston. If it works the motor will 100% lock up in the cam section due to heat from the exhaust. Loved 😍 this video. Look forward to more
Rotary valve, 4-stroke engines have been successfully built. I recall seeing an article in Mechanics Illustrated on one when I was a kid, and there are currently a few videos on the web that show various owner builds operating. I wonder if your compression problem is with the fit of the rotary valve within its bore? This is a very critical fit; too tight and it could easily bind and gall. Too loose and you could lose pressure on compression plus back fire through the carb and out the exhaust on ignition. You get an A+ for effort and the beautiful machining work that you performed. I am also very disappointed that it didn't work!
All I could think the entire time watching is that you have amazing tools and the incredible skill and knowledge to use them and an amazing ability to imagine and see your vision. Even if it doesn’t work out it is a beautiful work of art and you should be very proud of what you produced! Congratulations and bravo!
49:04 Always have to appreciate a man who puts in several hours of work, fails, and then laughs about it and moves on to succeed. You should earn a million subscribers for that positive attitude alone.
The valveless concept has been done before and successfully so. Once you get your port timing and ignition timing figured out I'm sure it will run. Maybe need more adjustability with the ignition timing, looked to be firing too soon and then too late later on in your video.
Yep. It's called a rotary valve engine. Companies that have made them include Roton Engine, Bishop Innovation, Mercedes-Ilmor, Coates International and National Engine Company.
Привет, очень хорошее видео. Как вариант чтобы увеличить компрессию нужно проточить на поршне ещё одну канавку для третьего компрессионного кольца, так же в место где вращается вал сделать проточку для сальника. Ещё можно применить другой вид топлива например: 1 часть эфира + 1 часть керосина+ 1 часть касторового масла.Такой вид топлива можно использовать для авиационных моделей,этот вид топлива можно использовать без свечей зажигания. Ещё один способ для увеличения компрессии - можно сделать регулируемую камеру сгорания путем затяжки сверху болта( это второй поршень который находится в верхней мёртвой точке и регулировочный болт давит на этот поршень) Так происходит регулировка камеры сгорания. По отношению к валу для впуска и выпуска: окно для выпуска должно быть немного больше чем для впуска - за счёт этого улучшается продувка камеры сгорания , тем самым улучшается коэффициент полезного действия. Если интересно то я ещё могу много рассказать про это. Удачи.!
А ещё можно взять уже готовый дигатель с нормальной компрессией, хоном, степенью сжатия, карбюратором, зажиганием и просто сделать кастомную головку как здесь. ПС. Последние попытки пуска двигателя сделали мой день, 50 минут технонаслаждения и в конце 5 минут неудержимого смеха
Плохая компрессия здесь как раз из-за системы впуска-выпуска. Соединение распределительный вал - головка не обеспечивает достаточной герметичности. Эфир с керосином и касторкой здесь не помогут так как не обеспечена достаточная герметичность камеры сгорания и невозможно добиться необходимого давления и соответственно температуры для вспышки такого топлива.
После каждой попытки доработать, устройство не работало всё лучше и лучше. ) Ты молодец! Руки у тебя золотые и голова светлая. Не торопись, подумай как следует, поймёшь, что улучшить. Удачи!
Вот парень устроил элемент газораспределения. А не учёл такой момент - Размер входного и выходного отверстий. Клапана на двигателях имеют разный диаметр. А это не спроста так устроено.
I designed this same engine when I was child. I am 63 now. I sent it to a company called Sarich orbital engine research department and the engineers explained that the friction on the rotating valve would be a issue and cause too much drag. Also when the rotary valve wears it would leak around the cylinder under compression. It was a valuable lesson for me being a child. Also even though I filed a provisional patent before I sent the idea to be assessed, it is likely that hundreds of people had thought of the idea before me. Good luck. Also never never start a small engine with a drill. If the piston does not reach top dead centre and fires then the engine will spin in reverse this taking out your wrist bones.
Автор видео достоин уважения за упорство и большой объем проделанной работы. Идея впуска через вал не новая. Это принцип реализован в ранних авиамодельных двигателях внутреннего сгорания. Там чрезвычайно важно точно выдержать угол впрыска топлива. Желаю автору удачи в решении проблем с мотором и успешного запуска.
Идея рабочая, надо просто довести. Можно подать жидкость в зазор (масло или вода), тем самым компрессия будет 100%. Чем больше зазор тем гуще жижа подойдёт.
@@gremuare а как по твоему достигается герметичность между поршнем и цилиндром? - правильно, с помощью масленой плёнки. Таким же образом можно обеспечить отсутствие зазора в таком клапане
First, I applaud your initiative to design and build this engine. I too had an idea of using the same design for an integrated cam shaft valve system. My plan was to modify an existing motor, as to remove as many variables as possible. I got as far as making the shaft with the aperture for exhaust only, since the expansion coefficients are different for steel and aluminum, there would be too much leakage when the motor warmed up to temperature. I gave up there. I would enjoy seeing how you remedy this. BTW- Have you thought about using a ringed piston as a valve? Imagine instead of an overhead cam that you have an overhead crank that operates two pistons for the intake and exhaust.
Дело не в степени сжатия, на мой взгляд - даже сильно изношенные двигатели заводятся, хоть и не имеют прежней мощности. Мне показалась странной система смазки распределительного вала - масло просто потоком хлещет в камеру сгорания и выхлопное отверстие. У вас просто "заливает" свечу и воспламенения топлива не происходит. Попробуйте не короткое время запустить двигатель без масла в картере двигателя - должно заработать.
Your craftsman, ingenuity, and dedication are top notch! At least you are attempting to create something new and innovative, which is admirable. Thanks for taking us with you on this journey!!
There have been many attempts over the decades to perfect the in-head rotary valve 4-stroke cycle engine, generally referred to as "Aspen valve" type engines. The problems have been many including getting the valve to seal properly to the cylinder head-especially when the engine comes up to temperature and the metals expand. Several Aspen valve engines have been sold commercially over the years for use in model airplanes. Although they run, none have been able to produce the power of conventional designs.
No one seems to consider using multiple technologies in this kind of engine, for example it would help to seal the inlet using reed valves similar to a two stroke.
Many wonder what happened to this engine.
Did he finally work?
Yes, friends, it worked.
I invite everyone to the premiere of the video, where I finally launch it.
02/19/2022 12:00 GMT+1
ruclips.net/video/1EP49XuejVM/видео.html
Can I get a blueprint for this engine?
Amazing work dude, well done.
I was thinking some kind of piston style ring ,like on the rotary have an apex seal .or some kind of labyrinth seal
Congratulations.
I still believe that you are an absolutely genius! You've gotta be an engineer or some kind of highly intelligent machinist or something! 👏
Anyone on gods green earth that gets this far in building a new engine design has my subscription. Don't stop.
Hell yes. Unlike a lot of people that only post the stuff that makes them (supposedly) look better, this man left it all on the floor and posted the good, the bad and the ugly. I admire a man that is that confident. Awesome
As a Mechanical Designer (>38yrs),.. this was GREAT!... bcuz, this was honest and what happens when you experiment! Keep at it, cheers!
Just shut up
what type of valve was that?
I think you may have taken a lot of assumptions for valve size, intake duration, shape of inlet and outlet, etc. Check out the Coates Spherical Rotary Valve system. It is a similar idea of what you're trying to do here.
I’d say you are right! This idea would most like work with some tweaking of intake and exhaust ports. And timing who knows what kind of power it would have though, I’d say it would run.
Yeah ..ford did a bunch of stuff with Coates
Believing that this is an invention in any way, that nobody else has tried this before, really shows how arrogant the creator is.
Exactly what I came to say
@@xaytana ignorant maybe but arrogant i dont believe, regardless his ignorance is more respectful than your etiquette or critique
Sir, I really enjoyed watching this video.
The amount of work and effort put into making this engine was truly inspiring. I was captivated during every minute.
Even if the end result was an engine that didn’t run, the skills that went into machining parts and fitting them together was truly inspiring.
I am a journeyman diesel mechanic by trade, so now I too am wondering why this engine didn’t run, and what could be done to fix it. (It’s literally in my nature)
So I have a suggestion for you sir.
The spacing between “valves” or intake and exhaust ports may be too close or even too big. It just might be that the engine is dumping it’s compression through the exhaust port too soon. One thing I’ve learned during my career working on engines is timing is everything.
Your little engine wanted to run, but most likely couldn’t because it was forced to dump its compression before complete combustion could take place.
Again, only a suggestion. Maybe a 2nd look at your invention is warranted ?
I look forward to seeing it run !!!
And am definitely going to subscribe in hopes you do revisit this idea in the future.
Stay safe my friend. God Bless and good luck !
17:48 - That is me almost every time I have a machining project. Marvelous video and project! Not only was your creativity in fabricating wonderful, your perseverance and attitude taught me so much.
สวัสดีค่ะพี่
Mate , you should cut piston ring grooves in the rotary valve ends and install wear sleeves in the head or completely sleeve the head and run piston rings to seal the head to valve .
It may need two or three each side.
But like people here have already said , recheck the ignition timing to make sure its correct.
Use a timing light and a protractor to check the ignition timing , its very simple and it will remove any doubt. And its here I think the main problem lies.
A simple engine like this will run on quite low compression as long as everything else is in parameters.
Do a compression check and see , again it will give you a good idea.
I've had simple engines like this run happily all day on 60 or so PSI.
I remember as an apprentice 50 or so years ago an old Holden six cylinder ran like a top with only 70 PSI on all cylinders but I think the secret there was all six cylinders were all the same.
Please don't give up on this engine, you have come too far to give up.
The engine will probably never run anything useful but would be a good model to show and display. and be proud of.
I love your work and I was transfixed to the monitor the whole time .
Brilliant , just brilliant
It's amazing.
But... your cylinder head need an upgrade about the position of the spark plug. The geometry of the head is more important than anything else. Sorry for my bad English.
Good luck : )
Exactly he needs sleeves, on both sides for head to valve , and probably two between side to side like apex seals from a rotary madza or something like that
Yes please try adding rings to each end of your rotary valve. Also one on a slant between the intake and the exhaust. Like a rotary engine seal.
Great idea, one in middle and ones on either side, probably even multiples for good seal
Funny you should mention the Holden six as Dunston made a rotary valve head for the grey motor in the 1950s
It's either valve or ignituion timing. At least it looks and sounds that way. Even with very little compression it should still be able to run with no load. I think it should run with some more adjustment.
If you need a drill that big to turn it, it's probably not compression.
It was absolutely amazing watching the whole process of the motor being built. Great work!
Yeah, even a small amount of compression it should turn over. I also agree the timing could be to far out.
Completely agree, also some oil porting of some sort or coating to reduce friction on the valve shaft will be something nice to look into. I noticed that the resistance to rotate the engine increased as it warmed up, may have something to do with tolerances and differences in expansion coefficient in materials. I hope he doesn't give up his work
I agree.
@@MrDanto2041 well absolutely, did you see how tight the Piston fit in the cylinder???? It should never be that tight! He needs a few more thousands removed from the bore. Absolutely way too tight! He didn't give any room for piston to wall clearance.
This is true. Either a tricky 2-part valve that's adjustable for timing or 2 rotary valves in that head. On initial start, engines "like" different timing and you'll need to adjust.
Love it. I,m a retired tool & die maker. But I was in racing my entire life. Drag racing, kart racing, on & on. I love watching guys as you. Experiment why your still have the drive you
do. God l can connect with what your doing, just questing it seems like intake & exhaust
Timing along with ignition. You get the three working together I think it will work. Take
Normal internal combustion engine & a degree wheel , record each opening closing and
The ignition timing & balance your engine to the one you recorded there degrees at. Keep
Us posted my friend. It was trying, to start, I think your close, do not give up.
This is so much more than I ever saw being done in a 'garage'. Great engineering with heart & soul! No matter wether it worked or not , man, you are my hero! 🤗
С каким удовольствием я смотрел это видео! Не бросайте проект! Очень здорово, что Вы не растянули проект на миллион маленьких видео и выпустили все одним роликом!
И наконец понял, что этот пылесос не работает!!!
Пылесос. лол Это чертовски смешно. Но при этом очень дорогой, а смотреть гораздо интереснее. Если это плохо переведено, вы можете обвинить Google в этом. Спасибо, Альфредо из Техаса. ✌️
I hope he does not abandon this project, it still might work, with some shims or better bearings with the Cylindrical Intake shaft manifold. I think, that's his major problem, he needs better bearings to seal the upper cylinder head.
Я тоже залип на этом видео и смотрел его без перекуров.
Вот основные причины по которым ваш двигатель не завелся:
1. вы сделали 4-х тактный двигатель у которого все такты происходят за 1 оборот коленвала, в четырехтактниках все такты проходят за два оборота коленвала. За один оборот коленвала все такты проходят только в двутактных двигателях и в роторно - поршневых, а в вашев двигателе я не увидел продувочных каналов.
2. вы крутили против часовой стрелкисвой двигатель, попробуйте покрутить свой двигатель в другую сторону, т.е. по часовой стрелке.
3. в системе зажигания на вашем моторе нет возможности регулировки угла опережения зажигания, искра должна быть не в верхней мертвой точке, а чуть раньше в.м.т.
4. передача от коленвала на вал фаз газораспределения должна быть 1:1, а у вас одна звездочка чуть больше другой, сделайте звездочки одинаковыми. Кроме этого, попробуйте немного сместить в.м.т. относительно вала фаз газораспределения в ту или другую сторону.
Удачи вам в ваших экспериментах!
@@АлександрШевцов-е1ъ если бы был 2тактный возможно бы завёлся
@@АлександрШевцов-е1ъ тоже заметил что крутит в обратную сторону и звёздочки разные . А герой водопад похож на кавказца .
Your craftsmanship is amazing. my heartfelt congratulation to you. I strongly believe you should continue this project and this will definitely succeed. I suggest 3 modifications:
1.about the compression issue use rotary seal on both side intake and exhaust between the pipe and body.
2. in IC Engine valve timing is very very important to run a engine. i suggest instead of a single pipe inlet/exhaust. make it seperate and then fasten it face to face, by that you can change inlet vs outlet angle(which is now fixed). also timing with respect to crank rotation can be managed by usual timing chain shift as we do in conventional ic engine.
3. you have to manage the spark timing, which can be managed by making the pick up coil adjustable. degree forward or backward. cause you know spark is not at TDC , you need to adjust that.
i strongly believe you will definitely succeed in this.
i am ready to volunteer help in this project to make it success.
feel free to reply. i will clarify.
Generous offer 👍
I invent things and have 3 patents, this was so familiar, most ideas are like this, however when you have a win, it makes up for the losses. Keep going, you will have your victories!
Ну а что, неудачный опыт - тоже опыт! с этим сталкиваются многие изобретатели, и в итоге доводили дело до идеала.
И вы доведёте! Удачи вам!
Your face when you make a mistake is priceless! I am just a layman but even I can see many advantages. No cam needed, no tappets/pushrods, no valve clearance issues, less weight, potential higher rpm, no loss due to valve springs and easy to change characteristics of inlet/exhaust timing. Brilliant concept and I admire your dedication and that you can still laugh afterwards. SUBBED
Yeah, I had trouble to sub, I couldn't stop watching!
Honestly, I enjoyed every minute of this video, the end result doesn't even matter, your craftsmanship and ambition are admirable!
I second that, was a awesome video.
me too !!
The same is my opinion.
AGREED!!!!!
Something very similar was done on a 5 litre Ford V-8 in early 2000's. It could rev to 10,000 rpm as it didn't have poppet valves .It didn't have any oil feed to top end either using carbon ceramic bearings which also acted as seals. A few years earlier I came up with something very similar as well but couldn't figure out how to make it work on more than a single cylinder (designed around a Honda 90 engine)
I came here after seeing the video of it running! Awesome! Now I understand why it burns/exhausts/intakes so much oil,though. The oiling tube,besides oiling the 'cam' (for lack of a better term) is probably pushing oil into the intake/exhaust ports in the 'cam' on every cycle..so it smokes a lot and has oil coming from the exhaust. I assume it is also pushing oil into the intake port on every cycle,which might eventually fill the cylinder and 'hydrolock' the engine..or maybe just blow out the rings. (also, you probably don't need the 2-stroke mix for fuel,it's already got oil everywhere.)
My initial thought is,instead of perforating the oiling tube along the whole length,maybe just perforate it where the ports _aren't_ ,and keep the area over the ports solid,so less oil can get in there.
You are my hero, attempting to do what most would call the impossible without a computer. Saying that it also seems like it is an issue with timing or fuel starvation, I honestly have no idea it is just a thought from someone who knows nothing about the build of engines. Keep going with this project as my pop used to say ya gonna find the solution. Brilliant Video.
This engine will work. Ignition needs to be advanced on low compression engines. I would try radiussing the flutes on cam. Possibly advancing cam to open intake before TDC. Keep playing with it and it will purr like a kitten...
I was going to say exactly that. You can tell the timing isn't right because there's exhaust blowing out the carb. Like when he got sprayed in the eyes towards the end. Watch the mist coming out of the can of starter fluid.
Plus, if compression is the issue, make a little bit longer rod. Or make/find/buy a new piston. Probably, it's easier to just make a rod for it.
It’s not cam control didn’t you watch the video ?
Prendi due camere dei due tempi una la usi per alloggio del pistone, altra camera per albero del aspiracione e motore funzionera da dio🤣🤣🤣🤣👋
@@pufango4059 what do you call it?
Plenty of compression for that to run, especially with the starting juice. I'm going to guess timing is very critical but I have no experience with rotary valve engines. You are one hell of a machinist and should keep going with this idea. I am definitely subscribing. Fantastic work!
I agree! And also agree he should try getting the port size and timing right! He needs to make another video doing it! He's definitely got plenty of attention for the views!!
There are many things to admire in this video! But what I admire the most is the fact that You manage to laugh after having to extinguish a fire on Your engine using a powder extinguisher... That really takes a special kind of mindset :)
I really liked that you showed everything, not just the things that went well. My favourite was the pot part :)
Same here. A round peace of wood in the pod would have prevented the sides from collapsing inwards. :-)
It has to be an issue of intake and exhaust timing. This was SO cool to watch while eating my morning breakfast. Whether it worked or not you are very skilled with your lathes. Subscribing for sure!
Agreed! For Real some great follow through. Subscribed!
You spend an entire hour on breakfast?
@@davidreynolds731 Doesn’t everyone?
yep definatly a timing issue
@@ryanintopeka I would if I was watching this video, really entertaining. Well done, hope you fix it.
You can not give up on this! Double check "valve" overlap timing and also ignition timing (5-10deg BTDC) and get a static compression ratio number (IE 8.3:1) to see where you are in the design.
And of course do a compression test(800-1000kPa preferred)
Definitely ignition timing when it backfired through the carburetor 180° out. Also your first mag coil was grounded out on the case it was arcing by the intake flange.
@@LionHeartOG I noticed the arc at around 3 o'clock on the intake flange, but it appears to be the work light on the drill shining thru the cooling fins on flywheel. I also believe that U need some sort of timing adjustment, as well as some way to advance it a higher RPM. Once U get the compression leak around the camshaft fixed. Keep plugging, U will get it!
@@LionHeartOG Yes this engine will run, we need redemption! :D
I so wanted to see it work.
Time, effort, cost and skill, you put everything into it.
I laughed with you, and almost cried for you.
Loved it
Its seems as if the timing is off just fractionally, not sure how much compression you are getting but if that is close to enough, I think with different timing it could run.
When he first tried, it was definitely too far advanced, hence the kick-back. You are correct, with the timing retarded slightly it will run. Good work and good video in all.
yeah ignition timing needs to have some slots so he can adjust it.who knows what advance that type of system needs.
You are very good! I am a retired tool die and mold maker. You have a lot of experience from what little supplies you have. It is fun watching your videos. You don't waste any time. You get to the point and you even show mistakes which happens to everybody! Did you go to school for Machining or did you pick this up yourself? I watch every move you make. You have a lot of experience.
Thank you for the kind words, yes I have a degree in metal Processing as CNC operator with 15 years of experience
@@mwigmedia you're welcome for the kind words! I have built over 90 internal-combustion engines for racing, stock, and custom cars. I understand all the processes that you went through. I would seriously continue on trying different timing, volume combinations, stroke increase to get this motor to run. You're not far off.
Thank you so much Robert.
That is so much machining. What a freaking legend. I really liked how he made a self tapping spark plug. That was very clever
I will give you an "E" for effort. The way it was shooting flames out the exhaust I will say it's in the timing, most likely between the valves and your design of intake. KEEP TRYING ! don't ever give up. Lots of luck to you my friend.
I also was thinking that timing is an issue. The timing, duration, and overlap could also be contributing to the low compression.
it turns the wrong direction
@@sam_s_ SxS%¢¢
As a machinist this is really nice to see someone knowing how to make due with what he has and creating something beautiful.
Btw, one small piece of advice start your threads on the milling machine. Just put the tap in the chuck, Realesse the quill and turn it by hand. That way they are going to come out straight every time.
A shame it didn't end up working
How cool was that tap made from a spark plugs, haha!
Looked like a timing issue to me. Your talent and craftsmanship is amazing!! Keep up the good work!!
I think the timing chain tensioner is on the wrong side, and the gas inlet and outlet clearances
love your work. First we must try, then try again. Your idea of rotary valve is a great idea. sealing between each phase, intake and Exhaust maybe where you are loosing compression. keep going, you are almost there :) Dave from Australia
I love that you were confident enough to spend weeks of extra time making it look great and having enough cooling design with fins etc. when you were trying to test whether your concept idea would work or not, and then tried to immediately start it without measuring the compression or timing hahaha. Definitely enjoyed this.
Wow this is a very impressive achievement. And I watched your second video with it running, will done.
But there is some significant improvement to do for the valve port timing. I would mill the ports at an angle so they twist slightly round the shaft. And then considering the opening of the cylinder head you should have a small overlap of exhaust open as intake opens, only a few degrees.
Plus some way to adjust spark timing by rotating the coil around the flywheel to get the optimal timing, should be 8-12 degrees before TDC.
I think your engine could be very successful with some fine tuning but very well done to achieve this already.
Agreed and it seems it would be really robust
I was also thinking spark timing could be the issue
How about an extra idler sprocket on the "other side" of the timing chain to adjust the valve timing??
Despite it did not start, all the machining and conception you did is no small feat!
Keep up the good work!!
As a mechanic I really appreciate people who are like yourself because without people who try to do something new we wouldn't have any modern engines you kind of reminded me about the story of the man who broke the land speed record back on an old Harley or Indian but without people who try we wouldn't have powered flight and to be honest you have some nice engineering machines but its the humans that get everything right i mean seriously your engine would start no problem if you wanted to make it O.H.C or 2stroke but the idea itself was really quite clever,the idea of the Rotary probably had issues at the start..
The man who created the rotary engine also created most of the curse words we use today, true story lol..j/k, but yea much respect for people who take on challenges like this, definitely a rare breed
I feel your "valve tube" may beneffit from the use of piston rings running in groves to separte the inlet and outlet and tre outside and keep in compression. Should be a "simple" thing to machine a few groves and find some small engine rings. Well anyway. Fantastic work ! Fantastic video! Amazing entertainment.
Its so amazing seeing a design process and seeing all the steps. I think its awesome that you shared this journey through this project even though it didnt work. Stuff like this is what we can use to learn the most.
I’ve been working on trying to eliminate the valves for over 25 years. Tried rotating plates, sliders, reed valves, all with problems. Good luck. Hope your a better man than me.
Look at the cylinder head at 21:12.
If he had just put the camshaft completely inside the bore, and just cut ports out for the camshaft channels, the engine would have ran after being dialed in. Trust me.
@@Cat-fy5lw this is the reason why that engine will never work. The cam rotates 1/2 the speed of the engine. Therefore the cam will rotate 90 deg. with 1 stroke of the engine. Now say you have a 1/2 port and you have a 3.5 stroke. With a rotating port, the port starts to open at 0 deg. It won’t start to close until 90 deg. So let’s say you have a 3 in. cam with a 1/5 in. port. The cam will have to rotate another 19 deg. to close the port. the port will still be open on the up stroke. It will take another 19 deg. to close it. That’s about 3/4 in. on the up stroke. If it don’t work on paper it don’t work in the real world.
@@attackcatt So, then, he just needs to redesign the camshaft. That'll be easy.
I really liked the video, at least you tried to make it work. Waiting for the next video. good luck !!!
There is another issue you may not have thought about, heat from exhaust affecting intake since they are on the same valve and heat transfer is imminent. But really good idea overall, I am impressed.
Have been knocking this idea around for decades. Couldn't come up with a way to positively seal rotary valves, intake and exhaust probably must be seperate or firing engine could ignite intake charge (or at least cancel intake vacuum) . Also firing pressure is much higher than static pressure so good seals essential. Glad to see it this close to working, eager to see your next iteration. 10👍/10👍
Yamaha built a rotary valve engine many years ago. I don't know what they used for valve seals but it ran and had a very flat power curve. My brother and I were considering to build a rotary valve V8 but still have to contend with seals. Other than low compression, maybe your valve timing is off, with both intake and exhaust being open.
The intake and exhaust ports should probably be neuraled so they can also act slightly as flow pumps, adjust duration and allow for a closer machine fit without edge to edge binding, shaft should also be sleeved.
I think timing should be advanced a tooth or two and intake needs a better seal.
His ignition timing may also be to far advanced.
The system I describe above solved that problem with extremely minute tolerances, the valves were circular with circular edges across the depth, that fit exactly into a rounded groove, each side had a valve through it and then for some reason out the flat side instead of straight through, I mean if they were straight it would eliminate the poppet valve and it being directly in the way of air flow, just an "X" through it and offset on the shaft so that the timing was correct. Their website said the shaft with the valves was gear driven, directly connected to the crankshaft. Which I think is Brilliant and will attempt to engineer a set for the performance car build I'm working on, possibly a little transmission for VVT to adjust maybe a CVT for a bicycle....
The cooling fins are done exceptionally well especially in the oil sump area!!
Very exeptional build thank you!
_+1 SUB_
It almost started several times, I do believe the problem is that you needed a way to adjust your coil around the flywheel so you can advance or retard the spark timing in reference to top dead center (TDC) of the piston, that would allow for easier start-up of the motor. Most engines fire at 8 deg. Before TDC, but if you could adjust your coil position it will change your TDC firing position.
I like his concept i would like it to run just out of curiosity
Your ingenuity and persistence is inspiring. Great job not only on the project but on the video itself. Brilliant... Awesome..
Like the FAD (finger assisted drawing) on this. Hard too imagine how much work and effort its put in too this. Thanks for sharing :)
This is the ONLY instance where I watched a 57:05 video an it's entirety. Love everything about this video. The fact that you kept all the mishaps in the video speaks volumes about your character and more specifically your ego. Sub'd, Liked Shared 🙏🏻👊🏻
More important than the machine itself is your dedication to finish your mechanical machined idea. All inventions of machinery are a 3 dimensional question "Will this idea work", and "Does it do what I think it will"??? good job. I designed a steam engine with a rotary valve in the head. If there is not enough speed control in your system of 2:1 you might consider driving a cam shaft and operating rotary valves off of it. Good job!
Thanks Nathan, it finally worked, 😁 check out my next video
This is awesome…. i have been talking about this type of camshaft or port shaft to my friends for several years. Very cool to see someone trying to develop it!
It may be that the timing is off a few degrees. Most cams open the valves up to 15 degrees or more before TDC since it takes time to get the air flowing.
It seems to me like a timing issue, either with ignition or cam timing or both. I would double check the ignition timing events, otherwise you might be opening the exhaust too early or closing the intake too late, bleeding off your dynamic compression.
I've said it before and I'll say it again.
The main problem is that the cylinder head/ camshaft assembly has a design flaw.
@@Cat-fy5lw And what is the flaw?
@@Anonymous-oy6rj The huge slot exposing the entire side of the camshaft at 21:12. The space between the camshaft and bore is letting compression escape like a corrupt jailhouse warden.
To fix that, I would move the camshaft up by a couple centimeters and have two small elliptical ports leading into the combustion chamber.
Another guy suggested that it could also be the timing. I'm thinking he might be right.
@@Cat-fy5lw I agree
I’d say look more at timing. Wouldn’t compression issues go out the window with enough speed starting it? Look at old rotary engines with worn tips.
Such a beautiful build! And it seems just on the edge of running... I can't wait to see the next video, apparently you have it running there!
I am watching this over a year late, but thanks for the hard work designing, machining, recording, editing this video (and more I am sure). Yours is a top-notch channel!
There is also next video, you should watch it:-)
Yes!...a fantastic piece of work, and exactly the kind of pioneering spirit that got us to where we are today. About one hundred years ago, an American manufacturer tried to market a car using a similar style of tubular valve. As ever, the problem of sealing was not solved. Somewhere, I have an article on this car which was written-up by the magazine, "Automobile Quarterly". I can't remember the name!...However, I will do a little research and report on any findings.
It doesn’t SOUND like a compression issue to me. I’ve seen old engines that had 30psi compression (I consider 90psi and less to be low on most engines) fire right up and ring great. Sounds to me like timing. Try advancing your ignition timing a little, maybe slowing it. If that doesn’t work try messing with the rotary valve timing a little. You’re definitely on to something though. Considering that it’s a 65mm (or whatever it was) bore that looks to be fair compression.
My thoughts exactly. Backfiring and the flames from the exhaust side suggest late ignition. The fuel is igniting after the exhaust is open. Ignition system did not look adjustable from what i could see when he assembled it.
@@drickles37306 Bingo. If you can't light ether, you can't light anything.
Also a Hotter plug may help as well but, these where my thoughts as well
He didn't hook up a gauge to confirm compression. I'm also thinking timing the way it would back fire through the exhaust.
Compression seemed fine to me too, I thought timing too, though there was smoke from the exhaust, which suggests something else!
with this intake-exhaust design, you could build a variable timing engine by using a split shaft, a second chain and some levers to change the phase of the intake bore. if i'm not wrong, a variable timing setup can save your engine from being a fail project. good luck!
If I remember correctly your theory is correct. I remember reading about a gentleman who made the same type of engine for formula one. It was quite a while ago and I don't know if it ever made it into production, but it does work. Also, I didn't see a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder sleeve. Rings will not seal properly without that. Try hoeing the sleeve. And from what I see it looks like maybe a timing issue. I could be wrong but might be something to look into.
Please don't give up on this. I am routing for you. I do believe you will make it work.
honing. hoeing is best kept to the garden.
This was Guy Nègre. But it was a bit different. MGN w12.
Norton also tried that in the 60s, main issues were sealing (no joke 🤣) and mixture motion not adequate ( low charge motion leads to slower combustion )
I think Apfelbeck tried it also but not sure.
Great job! Heard the rotary's Achilles heel is the compression and exhaust escaping. One rotary pin design I saw had 6 seals on the pin. 3 on the left and 3 on the right. It looked similar to seals and o ring designs I've seen on diesel hydraulics and tubes/pipes. This presumably to correct the compression/exhaust issue.
It might not have worked, but it's a beautiful work of art. It deserves to be on display at the Museum of Ideas. Don't give up on your projects and crazy things. Perseverance is the spring that drives success. Greetings from Brazil.
Слишком много непонятного, так что тут долго можно угадывать почему он не запустился. В частности: что за канал на 29:12 и для чего, не известно какая степень сжатия, нет перекрытия фаз газораспределения. Так что даже если запустится, работать будет не стабильно.
Евгений я вас от души приветствую, вот такого гостя не ожидал в нашем гараже:-) Этот канал смазывает распредвал. Да и охлаждает.
@@mwigmedia здравствуйте. Я тут давно. Люди очень часто ищут всего одну причину неисправности: если один мотор не запускается, значит этому есть одна причина. Заблуждение, из-за которого мои клиенты неделями крутили карбюратор при отсутствии компрессии, а потом тащили всё это счастье ко мне. Гильза из чего сделана? Хон на ней есть? Насчёт перекрытия фаз: с этой проблемой сталкивался Виктор Синельников, когда строил свой первый мотор т40.
Ещё и время находится на такие длинные просмотры, ещё и вдумчиво, вас там точно клонируют уже)
Мне кажется, но это не точно! Первое на, что нужно обратить внимание это фазы ГРМ, так как воздух в карб дует. Второе нужно с распредвалом разобраться, что-то придумать, типа какие-то манжеты либо как на моторном двигателе "апексы", тогда должно поехать, но это не точно
*на роторном двигателе
Фазы впуска - выпуска не отрегулированы. Момент искры тоже, при этом искра бьёт два раза за четыре такта вместо одного. Карбюратор не соответствует объёму двигателя, камера сгорания не имеет нужной степени сжатия. Задумка отличная, осталось довести до ума. Хочется увидеть продолжение. С меня подписка.
поддерживаю!
в автомобильных двигателях с модулем зажигания искра тоже бьет два раза за четыре такта
@@Lissopen Не будем забывать, что только с модулем, и что там стоят всё-таки клапана.
Даная система газораспределения не даёт надёного сжатия горючей смеси. Нет плотности. Распредвал пропускает газы. Вот поэтому в первый раз загорелся карбюратор. Надо переделывать только на клапана. Чтоб распредвал держал компрессию надо, чтоб он плотно сидел в скользящих подшипниках. При сильно плотности распредвал не сможет вращался, его заклинит. Вот всё одно с другим связано. Надо делать класическе клапана.
@@papa58857 Ну Вам-то конечно виднее о плотности узла распредвал - головка, ведь вы принимали участие в проекте и сделали все необходимые замеры и расчёты... В случае плохого уплотнения этот двигатель должен постоянно "чихать" , при чём в обе стороны одновременно. Могу сказать лишь одно, что двигатель с обычной системой работает и с не притертыми, и с зажатыми клапанами. Не идеально конечно, но всё-же работает. И если всё дело в уплотнении, то человеку надо всего лишь проточить пазы под резиновые уплотнения - колечки, и убедиться в этом. Узел будет не вечным, но времени на выяснение причины хватит. И если всё-же причина в отвратительном уплотнении, то можно подумать об реализации уплотнения, использующегося в роторных двигателях.
I've been a mechanic, machinist, racer, and fabricator for about 55 years, and this is the best video on this subject, and this guy is a very good machinist, at the very least, but a brilliant creator. The bragging out of the way, the small flywheel would have been a big mistake. I did a little engine design for a company called Wisconsin\Robin.
*You’re doing great! You’ve done a great job!*
You deserve a tremendous amount of credit for the attempt, on that-extremely well done! My hat’s off to you✅👍
Here's a suggestion. Make the intake and exhaust slots in a slight helix around the tube. By increasing or decreasing the twist, you can change the duration of intake/exhaust timing during the intake and exhaust stroke.
I like that idea, the port area may be OK but the timing is off with too little time/duration
Чтобы деталь крутилась в детали, нужно иметь между ними зазор не менее 0.05 мм. Это не герметично для газов. Есть другой способ убрать этот зазор полностью. На одной детали нужно сделать канавку и утопить в неё на пружинке шторку, которая будет всегда притираться с движущимся валом, стенкой корпуса. Такая деталь уплотнения стоит в воздушных высокооборотистых шуруповертах, которые работают безотказно 20 000 часов (проверенно мною) и им хоть бы что. И сделать их можно не из металла, а высокотемпературного пластика, текстолита. Всего то делов, прострогать канавку и вставить на пружинке текстолит. Это будет герметичнее и надёжнее клапанов. С компрессией можно справиться. Другое дело нагар и его воздействие на стенки как абразив. Смазка движущихся частей, которые на сухую не должны работать. И это тоже легко решается, если перед компрессионной пластиной из текстолита поставить одно или два компрессионных пластины из твёрдого металла, как у обычных компрессионных колец, с дополнительной маслосъемный пластиной. Без них компрессию не создать. Но пластины на пружинке будут работать 100 лет в отличии от колец поршней, срок работы которых ограничен конструкцией поршня. Так что это очень хорошая идея, создать двигатель облегчённый, надёжный, без громоздкой ГРМ. Это двигатель будущего, для самолётов, планеров, ЛЛА, мотоциклов и машин. Продолжайте дорабатывать !
Салфеточку бы посмотреть... С расчётами...
@@RealBlackFalcon Это элементарно Ватсон ! У поршневого кольца упругость колец падает в квадрате от выработке колец и стенок цилиндра и зазор в кольцах - основная потеря компрессии двигателя. Нагар под кольцами - основная причина выхода их из строя из за залипания. Какое бы качественное топливо не было использовано. От масла моторного ни куда не денешься. Упругость кольца ограничена её конструкцией, больше не сделать при всём желании. У шторок никакого зазора нет и не может быть, а усилие прижатия может регулироваться не ограничено, как механическим способом, пружиной и регулировочной пластиной, эксцентриком, так и пневматическим, гидравлическим способами. Множество вариантов. Всегда можно держать компрессию под контролем. Ресурс мотора напрямую зависит от выработки поршневой группы. Салфетка нужна для другого дела. Тесла (без салфетки) ни сделал ни одного письменного расчёта, а его изобретения до сих пор никто не повторил. Мотор Кавасаки сделан был чисто экспериментальным путём, по интуиции, и его двигатель считается не превзойдённым шедевром мирового моторостроения до сих пор. Это было время безотказных двигателей миллионников. Практика, опыт - фундамент науки, но никак не наоборот.
If you use two shaft controlled intake and exhaust，maybe better
Make same size. Heat one freeze other
Что скажете насчет роторного двс от Liquid Piston? Вот это как по мне реально двигатель будущего. Повышенный значительно кпд, возможность изготовления под разные виды топлива вплоть до дизеля! При этом малые габариты вкупе с большой производительностью.
Ugh. This is the coolest video on the internet. Such amazing creativity!
Respect. You went all the way there and back.
Thanks for sharing too. It’s a lovely adventure to watch.
I love all of the engineering in this video. I also really like that you kept your mistakes, as it always helps to see that no engineer is perfect all of the time.
. 😀😉😉😉😉😉
PS: you must vent the crankcase to prevent reverse compression against the piston.
Especially in a single cylinder
Мы не обсуждаем нюансы, обсуждаем концептуальность.
Yes 🙂.
Solid advice
I haven't viewed much of this yet, but I assume it is a 2 stroke motor where the pressures in the bottom end are vented (transferred) through the cylinder ports.
I theorized the rotating valves 50 years ago but never came up with a functional sealing system for lubricant and engine hot gases. I applaud your effort to build your prototype.
If valve installing was made as a split head it would be possible to use sealing rings on valve tube. It would greatly improve sealing of combustion games and allow use of seals for tube lubrication. I know just boring holes for valve shafts seems direct but making top and bottom to assembly allows more control of overall sealing. Very similar to put to case halves together. Intake valving could also be improved by using a Reed valve to prevent back flow on poor sealing of rotating shaft as some clearance is needed to prevent shaft from grinding against housing. When thinking about my solution, thing of how multi cylinder. 2 strokes seal individual crankcase spaces to isolats each cyl.
I had the same idea back in the 1970's. Good to see someone actually attempt it. I also enjoyed the effort. My idea was to spin the camshaft at 1/4 crankshaft speed and use isolated thru-shaft ports that sent the that opened every cycle but in opposite direction through the shaft. Idea you had is similar, but the ports open to the ends. Mine would have opened straight across to a manifold or similar collection part. Good luck, and look at that piece you placedin the intake and bent down. it may not be doing what you thought.
This design is called a rotary valve. The design has a long and very interesting history dating back to 1919, and going so far as use in Formula 1. A quick Wikipedia search will provide some history, and there are RUclips videos on the WGN W12 Formula 1 effort.
Rotary valve engines have been around for a long time, well over 100 years. They always come up against the same two problems, lubrication of the mating rotary surfaces and sealing. Nobody, even very experienced developers like Cosworth have been able to solve these issues. The nearest solution was sleeve valves as used in the Napier Sabre and Bristol Centaurus and Hercules engines. However if you watch a video of one of these engines starting, you will immediately see the problem in today's pollution conscious world. A Bristol Centaurus when starting, can cover a whole airport with burnt oil smoke.
Ya I was going to bring up sleeve valves too but the idea of a rotary valve is cool… too bad they have so many issues.
Ничто не делается без проб,ошибок и последующей доводки до УМА.
Don't forget the Coates Spherical Rotary Valve, they've been trying to get that thing working for decades now. It probably had the most promise out of all of them but after 30 years they still haven't been able to get anything on the road beyond a few prototypes.
Make the coil position adjustable so you can adjust the spark timing and advance it a bit from where you have it and it might just fire up.
with fire in the intake i think spark was too advanced (firing when intake was still open). unless that was fire from the overly rich mixture still burning in the cylinder past the exhaust stroke
@@thebluelunarmonkey There was a few little issues and ignition timing did seem to be too far advanced. Even if it requires that advance to run, it may require heavy retard to be started.
@@thebluelunarmonkey I'd tend to think too much spark advance would've made it try to fire but kick back on most every combustion stroke that had an ignitable mixture in the cylinder. Your 2nd thought is likely correct, that carb fire was from excessive fuel that got puked all over the thing, IMHO.
Thnx 4 the video from your build, love the honest representation with the successes and failures!! Cool, really enjoyed watching the build
Even if your engine is not working "YET" a standing ovation for you. Very enjoyed the video;) all the best
Yeah! Here here😃!
as you mentioned about low compression, cylinder leak down has always been one of the main problems with that type head design. great job though don't ever quit exploring and creating your ideas.
As somebody who makes software, I'm incredibly impressed by the skill of this man. One mistake and all his previous work is ruined - with software it's just edit and recompile.
Exactly I also work in Software but I do some mechanical work like this just to keep in touch with real world toughness.
The shape of the piston needs to match the shape of the combustion chamber. Increase the compression ratio by removing the valve shaft clearance.
Really enjoyed this. I have seen a similar system that DID work. It was done by someone in the Netherlands on a Zündapp two stroke moped who turned it into a four stroke this way. My idea is you need to use cast iron for the cilinder and last finish should by done by 'honing'. That should improve the compression. Stainless steel also expands too much when hot so even if the engine would have fired up, compression would soon drop. As for the in- and outlet, you could try to seperate the channels with an O-ring. I get the impression that when you try to start it, it wants to backfire into the carburettor, in fact that's what probably caused your little fire there. I wouldn't just throw this project away. Give it some more thinking and I'm sure you will succeed in the end. Good luck!!
I agree on all your suggestions except the o rings which would degrade quickly because of heat. i would suggest sealing ring similarly use in automatic transmission along the intake/exhaust shaft to isolate each port and eliminate compression lost.
@@tverrettsr It's the heat (and how to handle it) which is the most determining factor in this proces. using any sort of rubber based sealing is hard to combine close to where the combustion proces occurs. I mean: look at exhaust valves used on two-stroke MX-bikes which involve any kind of rubber sealings... that's where it always goes wrong. Still... I do believe this concept can work; still trying to find my copy of that magazine 'Bromfiets' which covered that Zündapp using a similar system. 🙂
@@phillarsson8253 the sealing rings I am referring to in automatic transmissions are made of metal and have hooked ends. You may want to research it.
@@tverrettsr I see. Interesting, thx for that! ;-) ;-)
51:56 this engine has two ignition points: one is on combustion stroke and the other one is on intake stroke, because the flywheel touches the coil twice during the 4 cycles instead of once. that's why you get flame out of carburator -- it ignites leftover fuel when intake is about to happen.
the easiest solution might be to put the flywheel on the valve shaft rather than the crankshaft.
There is merit to your deductions and some science to go along with it but in small motor industry practice the waste spark magneto coil engine is common practice and runs off the crank timing.
Briggs and straton run this type of spark system and the second spark happens on the exhaust stroke. The spark timing should be before top dead center by about 20 to 30 degrees on a coil magnet ignition system. So when the other spark fires it is firing early in the exhaust stroke.
In a briggs and stratton style engine the spark plug is offset to the combustion chamber, this is to do with flame front timing and operating window improvements in part due to the lack of a distributor and the advanced low engine speed timing.
But to further explore the idea and eliminate the second wasted spark a crude way to kill one of the two sparks would be to bypass it to earth by having a very close gap and a lobe on the cam gear that wipes past the a peg at less than 2 thou away or even in spring contact. the spark at that time will jump that gap rather than the 10 thou gap at the plug. thus on that phase it would not fire in cylinder.The down side is aggressive bearing wear on the cam shaft.
The reason I mention there is science behind your observation is in the large more costly single cylinder engines a contact point set is used to control spark timing or a timing controller with a Electronic CDI unit is used that helps eliminate either waste spark or dynamically change the spark timing to suit engine speed to predicted flame front speed.
@@shanewilson3653 I agree that if the engine works correctly then the extra ignition can't really ignite anything as there'll be only exhaust gasses in the cylinder when it fires.
However, with engines like these it's common to not have ignition on some strokes (because of fuel mixture or a weak spark) and then misfiring on the intake stroke is dangerous because it fires through the carburetor that's really not amazing as it's pretty much guaranteed to cause a fire.
Btw the offset angle of the distributor does not have to be electronically controlled, it can be offset hydraulically or mechanically driven by the engine RPM. I don't think it's relevant for a small engine like this though.
If your objective was to produce a working rotary-valve engine, be prepared to endure a thousand more iterations. If your objective was to become an even-more-competent machinist, designer and thinker, you've succeeded. Again. If your objective was to create another hour of uniquely compelling content ... well, I can't wait until your next installment!
I don't know, the Bristol Centaurus was used in British aircraft and Norton designed a two cyl race engine but it was plagued by the companies failing sales so no Capitol was available for newer designs.
I want to see him figure out how to make it work. I posted my idea, and now I’m reading all the comments to see everyone else’s.
@@terjeoseberg990 People already have figured out how to make them work. A lot of experimental stuff with internal combustion around the turn of the century. But for whatever reason they fell out of favor or production in the 1920's. (I'd guess issues with keeping a seal on the valve drum due to wear or scoring?) His best bet would be to look for historical examples and archival blueprints. Having a modern take on such a design would still be fun to get working.
As a small engine mechanic for 25 years, it looks like the timing is off. Other than that I believe you have a great idea for a good engine.
Maybe run the intake and exhaust on two separate shafts, with it popping back through the intake it’s definitely a timing issue. Definitely on to something, don’t give up.
Scrapers on the the cam walls, think of them like compression rings on the piston. If it works the motor will 100% lock up in the cam section due to heat from the exhaust. Loved 😍 this video. Look forward to more
Looks like timing issue. since the exhaust is coming out of the carburetor
Nice build!
Valve timing not spark :)
Are you an artist !
I like the quality of the editing of your video. Just what you need to follow this project with passion. 🤩
Rotary valve, 4-stroke engines have been successfully built. I recall seeing an article in Mechanics Illustrated on one when I was a kid, and there are currently a few videos on the web that show various owner builds operating. I wonder if your compression problem is with the fit of the rotary valve within its bore? This is a very critical fit; too tight and it could easily bind and gall. Too loose and you could lose pressure on compression plus back fire through the carb and out the exhaust on ignition. You get an A+ for effort and the beautiful machining work that you performed. I am also very disappointed that it didn't work!
Ну ты Самоделкин так и на заводе делают а ты дома и так профессионально вот что значит человек зародился идеей и доводит до конца Сто лайков тебе
All I could think the entire time watching is that you have amazing tools and the incredible skill and knowledge to use them and an amazing ability to imagine and see your vision. Even if it doesn’t work out it is a beautiful work of art and you should be very proud of what you produced! Congratulations and bravo!
49:04 Always have to appreciate a man who puts in several hours of work, fails, and then laughs about it and moves on to succeed. You should earn a million subscribers for that positive attitude alone.
The valveless concept has been done before and successfully so. Once you get your port timing and ignition timing figured out I'm sure it will run. Maybe need more adjustability with the ignition timing, looked to be firing too soon and then too late later on in your video.
I was thinking the same thing. timing was off. Compression for such a small engine should be fairly low.
Kohler uses an adjustable cam timing(mainly to reduce start up compression).Which engine?I forget.
@@genehunsinger3981 Honda does this with all of their small engines, china clones copy this design.
its definitely a timing issue
Yep. It's called a rotary valve engine. Companies that have made them include Roton Engine, Bishop Innovation, Mercedes-Ilmor, Coates International and National Engine Company.
Привет, очень хорошее видео. Как вариант чтобы увеличить компрессию нужно проточить на поршне ещё одну канавку для третьего компрессионного кольца, так же в место где вращается вал сделать проточку для сальника. Ещё можно применить другой вид топлива например: 1 часть эфира + 1 часть керосина+ 1 часть касторового масла.Такой вид топлива можно использовать для авиационных моделей,этот вид топлива можно использовать без свечей зажигания.
Ещё один способ для увеличения компрессии - можно сделать регулируемую камеру сгорания путем затяжки сверху болта( это второй поршень который находится в верхней мёртвой точке и регулировочный болт давит на этот поршень) Так происходит регулировка камеры сгорания.
По отношению к валу для впуска и выпуска: окно для выпуска должно быть немного больше чем для впуска - за счёт этого улучшается продувка камеры сгорания , тем самым улучшается коэффициент полезного действия.
Если интересно то я ещё могу много рассказать про это.
Удачи.!
Ещё как вариант нужно набить хон на цилиндре
А ещё можно взять уже готовый дигатель с нормальной компрессией, хоном, степенью сжатия, карбюратором, зажиганием и просто сделать кастомную головку как здесь.
ПС. Последние попытки пуска двигателя сделали мой день, 50 минут технонаслаждения и в конце 5 минут неудержимого смеха
Плохая компрессия здесь как раз из-за системы впуска-выпуска. Соединение распределительный вал - головка не обеспечивает достаточной герметичности. Эфир с керосином и касторкой здесь не помогут так как не обеспечена достаточная герметичность камеры сгорания и невозможно добиться необходимого давления и соответственно температуры для вспышки такого топлива.
I agree! Try a different fuel type! Awesome video!!!
Сальник не годиться, он быстро сгорит и сточиться.
После каждой попытки доработать, устройство не работало всё лучше и лучше. )
Ты молодец! Руки у тебя золотые и голова светлая. Не торопись, подумай как следует, поймёшь, что улучшить. Удачи!
Вот парень устроил элемент газораспределения.
А не учёл такой момент - Размер входного и выходного отверстий.
Клапана на двигателях имеют разный диаметр.
А это не спроста так устроено.
I designed this same engine when I was child. I am 63 now. I sent it to a company called Sarich orbital engine research department and the engineers explained that the friction on the rotating valve would be a issue and cause too much drag. Also when the rotary valve wears it would leak around the cylinder under compression.
It was a valuable lesson for me being a child.
Also even though I filed a provisional patent before I sent the idea to be assessed, it is likely that hundreds of people had thought of the idea before me. Good luck.
Also never never start a small engine with a drill. If the piston does not reach top dead centre and fires then the engine will spin in reverse this taking out your wrist bones.
Автор видео достоин уважения за упорство и большой объем проделанной работы. Идея впуска через вал не новая. Это принцип реализован в ранних авиамодельных двигателях внутреннего сгорания. Там чрезвычайно важно точно выдержать угол впрыска топлива. Желаю автору удачи в решении проблем с мотором и успешного запуска.
Вставной гильзой с окошком и регулятором угла можно регулировать угол впуска
Идея рабочая, надо просто довести. Можно подать жидкость в зазор (масло или вода), тем самым компрессия будет 100%. Чем больше зазор тем гуще жижа подойдёт.
Could you tell me what these types of engines are called? I'd like to look into them more.
@@БорисЛаневскийтак либо жидкость в цилиндр давить будет, либо газы в жидкость
Или и то и другое попеременно
@@gremuare а как по твоему достигается герметичность между поршнем и цилиндром? - правильно, с помощью масленой плёнки. Таким же образом можно обеспечить отсутствие зазора в таком клапане
First, I applaud your initiative to design and build this engine. I too had an idea of using the same design for an integrated cam shaft valve system. My plan was to modify an existing motor, as to remove as many variables as possible. I got as far as making the shaft with the aperture for exhaust only, since the expansion coefficients are different for steel and aluminum, there would be too much leakage when the motor warmed up to temperature. I gave up there. I would enjoy seeing how you remedy this. BTW- Have you thought about using a ringed piston as a valve? Imagine instead of an overhead cam that you have an overhead crank that operates two pistons for the intake and exhaust.
Дело не в степени сжатия, на мой взгляд - даже сильно изношенные двигатели заводятся, хоть и не имеют прежней мощности.
Мне показалась странной система смазки распределительного вала - масло просто потоком хлещет в камеру сгорания и выхлопное отверстие. У вас просто "заливает" свечу и воспламенения топлива не происходит.
Попробуйте не короткое время запустить двигатель без масла в картере двигателя - должно заработать.
ХернЁй он страдает.
Титанический труд
Your craftsman, ingenuity, and dedication are top notch! At least you are attempting to create something new and innovative, which is admirable. Thanks for taking us with you on this journey!!
you need a high pressure seal around the cam shaft in order to get higher compression
There have been many attempts over the decades to perfect the in-head rotary valve 4-stroke cycle engine, generally referred to as "Aspen valve" type engines. The problems have been many including getting the valve to seal properly to the cylinder head-especially when the engine comes up to temperature and the metals expand. Several Aspen valve engines have been sold commercially over the years for use in model airplanes. Although they run, none have been able to produce the power of conventional designs.
No one seems to consider using multiple technologies in this kind of engine, for example it would help to seal the inlet using reed valves similar to a two stroke.
This man just built an engine of his own design from a lump of metal in his garage.. I mean really.
It’s a workshop full of equipment , it’s not a garage is it ?