whats a 9950X ? I get all my tech news from reputable Dawid sources, and not Linus the hate-filled shill \ PS Portal apologizer. And my news source tells me nothing about 9950X, which is likely fake news invented by Linus as a way to shill for the PS Portal some more. You fell for it, not me. Linus is also a lizard-person. When he laughs, his pupils turn jet black.
@@nasko235679And it's very similar scenario, because when 7700K launched AMD didn't really had anything to compete, and the only thing Intel had up to this point is basically killing itself, no competition, people will buy ryzen anyway.
Logitech's really missing a trick by not just sticking a sensor they already make into mice they already make and flogging them as an ergonomic gaming item. Perhaps they should get on that instead of trying to make their mice into a ****ing subscription service.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff Just putting some fresh leaded solder (best one with integrated flux) on the existing lead-free factory solder will make it flow a lot better. Even at lower temps.
For tough solder joint removal, if you use a soldering iron and add some low melt lead solder and some flux, it will make the solder removal waaaay easier. From factory, they tend to use high temp tin alloy solder.
I know several people who use the MX vertical to game, feels like there could be an actual market for this. I don’t think it would be super difficult for logitech to put their own gaming sensors and switches into an MX vertical.
@@_Dandy_S Vertical Gaming Mice are such an untapped market. Once you get used to the grip, it's actually far better for FPS games and even some osu. Gamers just don't wanna try it cause "nobody uses them", not realizing it's actually a superior grip even if you don't have carpal tunnel.
For real, there is a market for it and this video made me realize it. Now I'm curious to try it out, but there is no gaming vertical mouse that's wireless.
@@philtkaswahl2124 I'm not in tune with wha't'''s being alluded to here but the notion of a carved oar battle sounds pretty cool ... care to explain what it's all about and if it was video'd? :P
@@michaelrobinson9643 Miyamoto Musashi is an actual historical Japanese swordsman. We're just talking like he's a gamer and the things he did (like fighting someone who challenged him to a duel with an oar) like game feats.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff make sure you wear some breathing protection and ventilation if you plan on doing that since the carbon fibre in the lungs ain't fun
So, fun fact that a few 3d printing channels have gone over: Carbon fiber filament is not for ANYTHING you are going to be touching. it sheds the carbon fibers as you touch them and drives them into your skin or sheds them into the air where you can inhale them and they can mess up your lungs. If you clear coat it, its only fine until the coating wears away. To make matters worse, the structural benefits of Carbon-fiber are basically nothing in most cases - in actuality, it tends to make the plastics weaker while adding a little bit of stiffness that makes it seem stronger then it is to a casual user. So for most people, using this is exposing yourself to a health hazard for no reason.
Asbestos printer filament when. I wouldn't at all be surprised if there was some shady Chinese company making asbestos printer filament and passing it off as glass fiber or something else.
@GGigabiteM problem would likely be the melting point of asbestos, which is very high and kinda the point of it, why it was used so much. But then again, metal printers exist already... still, that won't hit the consumer market anytime soon. Thank goodness.
Side note, handling carbon fiber filament without gloves is not a great idea since it embeds micro fibers into your skin. Additionally, if you bothered to sand, prime, and paint the new mouse the it would probably feel a lot nicer & be more durable to hold then just the bare plastic.
A tip for future projects, if you cant remove the component because the solder is not melting, try putting some fresh new one on top, it helps removing the old solder
A tip for desoldering components is actually to *add* low melt (i.e. leaded) solder to it to mix and lower the overall melting point before removal. Companies can't use leaded so the solder they use has a really high melt point, which is what make desoldering a pain. Also your wood burning sized iron tip is the stuff of nightmares 😀
If you take on the process again get some low temperature solder and put a little bit on the hard to remove solder joints and then when you use your de-soldering gun it will be much easier to remove all of the solder from the joint. This is a trick we use in electronics repair for temp sensitive components, thin boards and stubborn joints.
or look up some videos on desoldering. using a thick gauge metall wire to spread the heat across all the pins, and then puling the part seems to be a very effective method, then the desolder gun helps pull out any solder left in the holes.
This is awesome! Combining several of my interests in a Dawid video. Very surprised your filament needed drying that badly. Also, surprisingly printing on a wobbly table like that generally has very little impact on print quality. Great stuff! Seems like you learned a lot.
yeah.. soldering is a skill takes so much practice. I remember changing my switches, once i found that one youtuber who said 'do it this way' (add soldering to the switches makes it easier to remove the old soldering ) that made getting those damns switches off 10000000000% easier.
Impressive stuff, Dawid! I really like the MX Vertical too. I get why it hasn't happened, but I'm still a little surprised no one's really gone for developing an official gamer vert mouse yet.
I switched to using a vertical mouse for work. Absolutely a great decision, it's just so comfortable to use! Not had any wrist or elbow pain since. I do still use a normal mouse for gaming though and I hate it.
Good video. Just a note, the X1 has a feature that you can use it as a filament dryer. You put the filament inside the printer and then use the feature to dry it out. After it's dry, you can put it in the AMS unit, and assuming you have desiccant int he AMS unit you should be good for the print.
No need to dream ... Logitech will give us a forever mouse that we will pay for forever with a subscription! My god ... what a stupid idea and really the culmination of this damned subscription craze all these companies are on now. I blame Adobe.
I think it's awesome that you built a custom mouse, but it did leave me wondering, is it possible to just replace the original sensor in that vertical mouse you had?
It was amusing to see you going straight to trying carbon reinforced filament. I tend to use PLA till I get a project how I want it, before switching to something more expensive,harder to print with, or abrasive for the final part/s. That said 3d printers are handy for case modding. I have a Thermaltake from 2007 that I like. I used my 3D printer and fusion 360 to make a new front panel connector bracket/clamp for it. Replaced the USB2 ports with USB3, and the Firewire port with a USB-C port. I'm planning to make some fan shrouds for it too, and RGB light holders.
i feel like taking out the standard sensor and putting in a gamer sensor, but otherwise keeping the original logitech vertical mouse stock: may have been the simplest and most effective solution. the 3D printing section was cool, but it all felt a little unnecessary
You'd likely have to modify the firmware for the microcontroller to account for the different sensor which is generally a non-trivial process, unless there's an otherwise identical mouse with firmware you can flash that contains the same hardware. It may also require different support hardware depending on what sensor you were going from and two. If you have an extensive software RI skillset it may be easier, but probably not.
The Great Linus? Well, Torvalds isn't really known as a hardware guy, AFAIK. If by "great" you instead mean "small, squeaky and annoying", then that guy hasn't really built anything, has he?
In addition to using dry filament, you probably need to re-run calibration if you changed the surface the printer is standing on - it has movement and vibration compensation built in that is defined largely during the calibration. It was probably trying to compensate for movement that stopped being there when you moved it to the floor as well.
the slicer software should have settings for exactly how much of a gap there is between the tree supports and the surface above them, so it seems your setting is too close, causing them to be bonded too well. set the gap slightly larger, and test it with a smaller print then adjust the size of the gap until it becomes easy to remove.
Don't listen to all the comments telling you to sand your mouse, chemical smoothing is a much better method. It actually fuses the surface print layers which cause the roughness in the first place, doesn't take ages of some *very* boring work (with sanding it's either that or risking flat spots/dents when you start with something a little more coarse) Keep in mind though for pla acetone doesn't work, but ethyl acetate is a good alternative as it's decently safe and has a high enough vapor pressure to do a vapor bath. If that sounds too complicated you can also just dunk your print into some diluted sodium hydroxide for a few seconds and still get better results than with sanding 🙃
Bambu printers are an excellent way to dive into 3D printing. I am not shilling. Also, I've been using vertical mouses for 14 years and I'd never switch back
Oh nice, got that Bambu Lab sponsorship! And you got their flagship printer. Awesome. I have a Bambu Lab A1 and love it. Just a tip for the printer, alot of people print feet for it and place it on paver stones or bricks, some with a rubber anti-vibration matt, to help keep it stabilized and subsequently improve print quality. Recalibrate it after doing this too. Would be worth looking into!
That was a really diff video. Bigups on ya for doing such a challenge lol Have a buddy who does some 3d printing and ye man, taking out those supports is REAL lmfao Must've learned alot over the weeks, growing is always good heh ~a random canadian subscriber dude
Looks like you were using glue on the print bed. Ive never once needed it with my Bambu printers. Just make sure the bed is clean and go, works for me every time.
In some instances you might use a short spray with stuff like 3DLAC. It also works wonders with print surfaces that are sticking way too hard in combination with certain materials (that is maybe unexpected but very handy). The 3DLAC spray is easy removable with some lukewarm water, so you won't end up with a messy print surface. And a one time short spray is enough for several prints in a row. I bought one can more than a year ago and it's still not empty. You can, of course, use any other brand. This is just the experience I have with this brand.
Oh and another thing ! You can spray and coat the mouse with Plasti Dip to give it a rubber texture. Watch out for the button joints though. You could also give it a last, distant short psst to get a slightly bumpy grip texture. If you dont like it then you can just peel it off. Do atleast 3 coats though.
4 месяца назад+1
Next time. Since you havre the dual filament addon, try using two different filaments for the supports and the model. PETG for the model and PLA for the supports. They dont bond to each other so they can be removed without a problem.
This was a super interesting video! I love seeing practical applications of additive printing. I had another interesting video suggestion for you Dawid: Can you create a setup that would allow you to fry an egg on the heat generated from a PC? I did some research and I think it would be possible but I think that only you could actually try something like this.
What I want is that MX vertical, but smaller. It's just too large for me and that's a pity, because I like the idea. I had the same issue with the MX Ergo trackball. Went for an M575 in the end.
Part 2 when?? Love to see you try wireless charging and rechargeable batteries!! Then when your done, just place it on a USB wireless charger. Also were you going with white? If not, reprint it in a different color filament, or sand it and paint it! Either way, love the custom mouse! I need to try this.. my hand also cramps after hours of Photoshop or video editing..
Awesomesauce video Dawid!! Your 2nd step to solve your puney carpal tunnel problem, get an arm support from Vivo. I tried one at work. OMG, so much less pain!!!
DUDE! This is rad! I have horrible wrists from working detail intensive labor work my whole life and have been looking for a vertical gaming mouse forever. I may have to copy this!
Awesome project! From the title I thought you had a crack at Bambulab's 3D-printed mouse kit, so it was a pleasant surprise to to see that you used an actual gaming mouse. Carbon Fibre based filament was definitely not a good choice for a mouse, a lot of tests show that most tend to shed microscopic carbon fibres and these get embedded in your skin - pretty inconvenient for a mouse.
Since you have an AMS on the printer, little trick: PLA and PETG don't like to bond, so if you use one for the part and the other for supports they separate REALLY easily. Or get a spool of PVA for supports, it dissolves in water. Oh, and I think gaming with "office" mice isn't that bad. I'm using an MX Ergo (a trackball) and it works fine. Though I have to say that I don't play shooters.
You have a 3d printer now, you can 3d print "helping hands" to hold the wires and PCB's while you solder. It makes life ALOT easier. Yes you can just buy them, but printing them is cheap and fun. It's also a good way to familiarise yourself with your slicer and level up your printing skill.
I'd recommend using ABS filament feels much nicer in the hand and it has higher temp resistance than PLA so you can also use it for computer parts. Only downside is that ABS get a little stinky and for bigger parts it might start to warp. Oh yeah you can also vapour smooth ABS parts in acetone it becomes well..... smooth :P If you want super easy support removal with PLA use PETG for the support material (and vice versa). Those materials are incompatible with each other and won't stick! ABS and PETG are very compatable so if you want to use them for color prints or multi material prints.
If you are getting wrist pain from mere mouse usage, your desk is too high. Consider a slideout under desk keyboard+mouse tray. Im in my early 40s I've never had carpal tunnel or any wrist or hand pain in my entire life unless literally had a recent biking tumble. I have to wreath things around at work, also as a cook and gardener by hobby. Back in the early 2000s noticed my wrists didnt like being much higher than my waist while using a mouse, it caused a dull ache. 20 years later seems they were telling me something important.
Well - you always can higher or lower your chair (if you have a bit good one). A rule of thumb is that when you place your elbow on the desk, and make a fist and let your chin rest on that fist, you should look straight forward. If you look up or down, your height has to be adjusted.
There's one thing to be said about 3D printing though: you will become INCREDIBLE at problem-solving. Particularly structural problems that aren't really problems.
A cool tip for 3d printing is to use petg as an interface for pla, and vice versa, it should break free a lot easer and you dont have to mess with dedicated support material just make sure to up your flush volumes co you dont get contamination. Alternatively there are also disolvable supports that can help with some of the more difficult prints.
having done some mouse modding, i know that you gotta love that feeling when it goes together and works! - this was a cool video, maybe a v2 follow up with different materials?
Well that was cool. We definitely need a part 2 on this. Fix the clicking issue and figure out a better(less sweaty) material for the shell, or maybe a simple paint job could remedy that. If all else fails you could just cover it in those mouse grip tape things lol.
Many RUclipsrs I watch put fresh flux and then solder on and only then remove the old solder point. This is supposed to help it flow better. Try that next time. Probably lead free from the factory so you need to use that as well.
Yup, learned this trick when I first started soldering. Leaded solder is best for this, modern PCBs don't use it and it's a higher melting point so a pain to remove.
If you want to smooth out the shell I suggest reprinting in a material similar to Polysmooth. Once it’s done you just suspend it in a box with some IPA at the bottom and have the fumes smooth it out. Also in your case while using the AMS you may want to consider getting a cheap spool of petg and using that as a support interface material. Reason being is pla can’t bind to petg so the supports just come right off.
I would definitely do some post-printing work on that mouse, at the minimum sanding and fixing it, best would be to also prime and (spray) paint it. That will increase the longevity of the mouse, and improve haptics. Also, painting would make it look pretty! And it's fun. ... This reminds me of the two projects I still have to perform some post printing work. *sighs*
I have found my Elegoo to be very resilient to vibrations on a table. Smarter software wizards than me have built quite a lot of on the fly compensation into it, as my workbench also will sometimes wobble about this violently underneath the printer. To my knowledge, any failed print I've ever had isn't because of the wobble it sometimes generates. Still, floor solution is best solution.
I use a Lift to play and is the best gaming mouse I always had. The "semi-infinite" wheel scroll almost makes me forget about my Hero G502. I'm left-handed, you can picture me using a mouse the wrong way since 2006.
@baronvonslambert ahh he'll naw , A1 mini cost just slightly more than 200€ and is far more superior than the dogpoo that creality makes. Seriously ender 3 ? This printer requires huge amount off care and upgrades and it might print well sometimes, with bambu just upload the file and wait and it's ready out of the box
I bought an Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo last year during Black Friday deals. 167.50€. Nice little printer, and they are routinely available for around 180. Shouldn't be much different in the US. Will need a little tuning the correct extruder head height to set up, but that's the case with all 3D printers...
Dawid I don’t think you’ve ever built a keeb before! You gotta do that someday and hit every budget like $50, $100, $500 or even higher. I’d love to see what kind of silliness you’d put together
Tip for 3d printing: the thing on top is for multiple materials. Colors are cool and all, buuuut… PLA and PETG don’t bond, meaning that you can make something with one material, and supports with the other and the removal will be easy peasy.
STL files are used in CAD, but contain no information but the mesh. I have used STLs to generate a model around them and that works great if the model is not that complex. It is good that you have entered the 3D printing world. And it is true that filament drying is important, even if the filament came sealed. You will have a better quality, less stringy print. I want to see part two or an update with the mouse "fixed", because I think it is a great idea to fit a good mouse hardware into other shapes, not the first time I have seen it, but it is the first time I see that Logitech ergonomic mouse shape being used for it.
nice build. though i think it would have been far better design to go with a "gun handle" shaped vertical mouse. The vertical mouse, while you can get used to it, it will pretty much always have the issue of mouse clicks causing the bod of the mouse to move slightly because of the way youre now clicking sideways, and not down into the mouse. which is fine for office work, but for gaming. Personally i think an even better solution is to off load all the buttons to your left hand with something like the azeron controller, which also gives you thumbstick based movement. and then youre just aiming with your right hand, so not pressing the fire button with your right hand prevents any mouse movement when pressing the fire button with your left hand.
Speaking of the Dark Ages!! You all still use Mice you have to pick up and slide around on a mat!! How Barbaric! LOL! Been using a Logi ERGO M575 for Years! Should try it sometime Dawid!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Other channels : 9950X/9900X launch
Dawid : 3D printed mouse
Keep at it, that's what we like !
whats a 9950X ?
I get all my tech news from reputable Dawid sources, and not Linus the hate-filled shill \ PS Portal apologizer.
And my news source tells me nothing about 9950X, which is likely fake news invented by Linus as a way to shill for the PS Portal some more. You fell for it, not me. Linus is also a lizard-person. When he laughs, his pupils turn jet black.
It's the most boring launch since the Intel 7700K so Dawid's made the right choice 😂
@@nasko235679 I'm really hoping we don't fall into a another quad core dark age.
@@nasko235679And it's very similar scenario, because when 7700K launched AMD didn't really had anything to compete, and the only thing Intel had up to this point is basically killing itself, no competition, people will buy ryzen anyway.
We wouldn't have it any other way
Logitech's really missing a trick by not just sticking a sensor they already make into mice they already make and flogging them as an ergonomic gaming item. Perhaps they should get on that instead of trying to make their mice into a ****ing subscription service.
Just buy bloody (brand name) mice
But but it has AI in it 😥
pay per click
He did the pony tail!!
It's not a PONY tail, silly boy. It's called a Pine Apple. Sorry my ex wife is a hairdresser, and I normally don't comment on men's looks
Pony fail
Hell yeah Dawid!!! You did it!
Watch out, Gamers Nexus!
Get the garden shears!!
Your solder iron could use a smaller wedge tip for such small components.
@@robson668 For sure. I thought I had one but when I whipped out the soldering iron I realized I need to get one.
I concur!
@@DawidDoesTechStuff Just putting some fresh leaded solder (best one with integrated flux) on the existing lead-free factory solder will make it flow a lot better. Even at lower temps.
Oh, don't be rude. All sizes are ok if you know how to handle them.
For tough solder joint removal, if you use a soldering iron and add some low melt lead solder and some flux, it will make the solder removal waaaay easier. From factory, they tend to use high temp tin alloy solder.
@@kulilin3104 That was what my wizard sensai suggested. I didn't have any flux but I ended up adding fresh solder and it helped.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff may I ask what model desoldering gun you are using? I've been on the lookout for a decent one.
@@kulilin3104 just reddit it, Google it or YT it
@@kulilin3104 You can try Anesty, Yihua, or the one most people use, Hakko. Goodluck!
@@kulilin3104 you need a Hakko FR-301
I know several people who use the MX vertical to game, feels like there could be an actual market for this. I don’t think it would be super difficult for logitech to put their own gaming sensors and switches into an MX vertical.
@@_Dandy_S Vertical Gaming Mice are such an untapped market. Once you get used to the grip, it's actually far better for FPS games and even some osu. Gamers just don't wanna try it cause "nobody uses them", not realizing it's actually a superior grip even if you don't have carpal tunnel.
In my case even with the mx ergo :P
For real, there is a market for it and this video made me realize it. Now I'm curious to try it out, but there is no gaming vertical mouse that's wireless.
Hopefully Keychron, who’s been pumping out no frills Razer and Logitech clones, makes a vertical mouse.
I didn't know Musashi Miyamoto was a gamer
Dude once beat another dude in a duel with a carved oar instead of a sword. Clearly unlocking a weapon challenge achievement.
Obviously a gamer.
@@philtkaswahl2124 Yeah that is some next level gamer behaviour.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff did somebody cast you for the kenzan remake?
@@philtkaswahl2124 I'm not in tune with wha't'''s being alluded to here but the notion of a carved oar battle sounds pretty cool ... care to explain what it's all about and if it was video'd? :P
@@michaelrobinson9643 Miyamoto Musashi is an actual historical Japanese swordsman. We're just talking like he's a gamer and the things he did (like fighting someone who challenged him to a duel with an oar) like game feats.
Sounds like everyone’s first experience with 3D printing. You should also get some fine grit sandpaper to polish the finished print to get it smooth.😂
@@hammersampson That's a good suggestion. It might be a good way to smooth out the PLA CF.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff Or use acetone.
Awesome video as always
@@Njazmothat’s for ABS not for PLA.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff make sure you wear some breathing protection and ventilation if you plan on doing that since the carbon fibre in the lungs ain't fun
So, fun fact that a few 3d printing channels have gone over: Carbon fiber filament is not for ANYTHING you are going to be touching. it sheds the carbon fibers as you touch them and drives them into your skin or sheds them into the air where you can inhale them and they can mess up your lungs. If you clear coat it, its only fine until the coating wears away.
To make matters worse, the structural benefits of Carbon-fiber are basically nothing in most cases - in actuality, it tends to make the plastics weaker while adding a little bit of stiffness that makes it seem stronger then it is to a casual user. So for most people, using this is exposing yourself to a health hazard for no reason.
its almost like fibered substances are sharp and dont like being in our lungs...I wonder if we've been down this route before
@@theq4602 Only at least twice before ;)
Try using PCCF from Průša. It's made differently so it won't kill you while you print it.
Asbestos printer filament when.
I wouldn't at all be surprised if there was some shady Chinese company making asbestos printer filament and passing it off as glass fiber or something else.
@GGigabiteM problem would likely be the melting point of asbestos, which is very high and kinda the point of it, why it was used so much. But then again, metal printers exist already... still, that won't hit the consumer market anytime soon. Thank goodness.
Side note, handling carbon fiber filament without gloves is not a great idea since it embeds micro fibers into your skin. Additionally, if you bothered to sand, prime, and paint the new mouse the it would probably feel a lot nicer & be more durable to hold then just the bare plastic.
or wrap them.
or dip it in epoxy
A tip for future projects, if you cant remove the component because the solder is not melting, try putting some fresh new one on top, it helps removing the old solder
Dawid like the most humble guy ever on youtube.
@@theicewitch9328 I'm actually super arrogant in real life.
Lol you can't even lie😂@@DawidDoesTechStuff
A tip for desoldering components is actually to *add* low melt (i.e. leaded) solder to it to mix and lower the overall melting point before removal. Companies can't use leaded so the solder they use has a really high melt point, which is what make desoldering a pain.
Also your wood burning sized iron tip is the stuff of nightmares 😀
If you take on the process again get some low temperature solder and put a little bit on the hard to remove solder joints and then when you use your de-soldering gun it will be much easier to remove all of the solder from the joint. This is a trick we use in electronics repair for temp sensitive components, thin boards and stubborn joints.
or look up some videos on desoldering. using a thick gauge metall wire to spread the heat across all the pins, and then puling the part seems to be a very effective method, then the desolder gun helps pull out any solder left in the holes.
This is awesome! Combining several of my interests in a Dawid video. Very surprised your filament needed drying that badly. Also, surprisingly printing on a wobbly table like that generally has very little impact on print quality. Great stuff! Seems like you learned a lot.
yeah.. soldering is a skill takes so much practice. I remember changing my switches, once i found that one youtuber who said 'do it this way' (add soldering to the switches makes it easier to remove the old soldering ) that made getting those damns switches off 10000000000% easier.
Lead solder makes it easier.
Really wish one of the peripheral brands made a proper vertical gaming mouse, been waiting a few years for it to happen
3:56
You truly do have a masterful way with words Dawid.
3:56 "jizzing out lines of hot plastic goo" is certainly one way to describe 3D printing.
Impressive stuff, Dawid! I really like the MX Vertical too. I get why it hasn't happened, but I'm still a little surprised no one's really gone for developing an official gamer vert mouse yet.
I switched to using a vertical mouse for work. Absolutely a great decision, it's just so comfortable to use! Not had any wrist or elbow pain since.
I do still use a normal mouse for gaming though and I hate it.
Good video. Just a note, the X1 has a feature that you can use it as a filament dryer. You put the filament inside the printer and then use the feature to dry it out. After it's dry, you can put it in the AMS unit, and assuming you have desiccant int he AMS unit you should be good for the print.
THERE IS PEOPLE DREAMING LAMBORGHINI AND FERRARI AND THERE IS PEOLPLE DREAMING A GAMING MOUSE
No need to dream ... Logitech will give us a forever mouse that we will pay for forever with a subscription! My god ... what a stupid idea and really the culmination of this damned subscription craze all these companies are on now. I blame Adobe.
@@EricLefebvrePhotography Adobe is the worst. I really wish bad stuff on that company.
WHY ARE YOU SCREAMING AT ME?!
@@Quryam I CANT HEAR YOU SPEAK UP!
There are also people dreaming you find the cap lock button!!
I think it's awesome that you built a custom mouse, but it did leave me wondering, is it possible to just replace the original sensor in that vertical mouse you had?
It was amusing to see you going straight to trying carbon reinforced filament.
I tend to use PLA till I get a project how I want it, before switching to something more expensive,harder to print with, or abrasive for the final part/s.
That said 3d printers are handy for case modding. I have a Thermaltake from 2007 that I like. I used my 3D printer and fusion 360 to make a new front panel connector bracket/clamp for it. Replaced the USB2 ports with USB3, and the Firewire port with a USB-C port.
I'm planning to make some fan shrouds for it too, and RGB light holders.
i feel like taking out the standard sensor and putting in a gamer sensor, but otherwise keeping the original logitech vertical mouse stock: may have been the simplest and most effective solution. the 3D printing section was cool, but it all felt a little unnecessary
You'd likely have to modify the firmware for the microcontroller to account for the different sensor which is generally a non-trivial process, unless there's an otherwise identical mouse with firmware you can flash that contains the same hardware. It may also require different support hardware depending on what sensor you were going from and two.
If you have an extensive software RI skillset it may be easier, but probably not.
Hey even the Great Linus never built his own mouse, well done Dawid.
The Great Linus? Well, Torvalds isn't really known as a hardware guy, AFAIK.
If by "great" you instead mean "small, squeaky and annoying", then that guy hasn't really built anything, has he?
I love random MacGyver projects. Keep them coming
You are lucky to have such a friend, very professional work he did.
In addition to using dry filament, you probably need to re-run calibration if you changed the surface the printer is standing on - it has movement and vibration compensation built in that is defined largely during the calibration. It was probably trying to compensate for movement that stopped being there when you moved it to the floor as well.
the slicer software should have settings for exactly how much of a gap there is between the tree supports and the surface above them, so it seems your setting is too close, causing them to be bonded too well. set the gap slightly larger, and test it with a smaller print then adjust the size of the gap until it becomes easy to remove.
Dawid Does Tech Stuff, amazing video you deserve more subscribers
Don't listen to all the comments telling you to sand your mouse, chemical smoothing is a much better method.
It actually fuses the surface print layers which cause the roughness in the first place, doesn't take ages of some *very* boring work (with sanding it's either that or risking flat spots/dents when you start with something a little more coarse)
Keep in mind though for pla acetone doesn't work, but ethyl acetate is a good alternative as it's decently safe and has a high enough vapor pressure to do a vapor bath.
If that sounds too complicated you can also just dunk your print into some diluted sodium hydroxide for a few seconds and still get better results than with sanding 🙃
Bambu printers are an excellent way to dive into 3D printing. I am not shilling. Also, I've been using vertical mouses for 14 years and I'd never switch back
Thanks for cranking out the content! My brand of humor and level of seriousness. I always look forward to your uploads
That is SO COOL!!! This was a GREAT IDEA!!!! I hope you do more videos like this where you create cool new stuff out of cool old stuff LOL
Oh nice, got that Bambu Lab sponsorship! And you got their flagship printer. Awesome. I have a Bambu Lab A1 and love it. Just a tip for the printer, alot of people print feet for it and place it on paver stones or bricks, some with a rubber anti-vibration matt, to help keep it stabilized and subsequently improve print quality. Recalibrate it after doing this too. Would be worth looking into!
That was a really diff video. Bigups on ya for doing such a challenge lol
Have a buddy who does some 3d printing and ye man, taking out those supports is REAL lmfao
Must've learned alot over the weeks, growing is always good heh
~a random canadian subscriber dude
Looks like you were using glue on the print bed. Ive never once needed it with my Bambu printers. Just make sure the bed is clean and go, works for me every time.
In some instances you might use a short spray with stuff like 3DLAC. It also works wonders with print surfaces that are sticking way too hard in combination with certain materials (that is maybe unexpected but very handy). The 3DLAC spray is easy removable with some lukewarm water, so you won't end up with a messy print surface. And a one time short spray is enough for several prints in a row. I bought one can more than a year ago and it's still not empty. You can, of course, use any other brand. This is just the experience I have with this brand.
HE ACTUALLY DID IT!!
Wait… shit I actually owe you $100 now don’t I….
Hahaha just for you. 😂😂😂
pay the man
What did you bet him? Hahaha.
Loll you have to pay him now
Hes actually looking for you. I saw his comment in a thread above
Oh and another thing ! You can spray and coat the mouse with Plasti Dip to give it a rubber texture. Watch out for the button joints though. You could also give it a last, distant short psst to get a slightly bumpy grip texture. If you dont like it then you can just peel it off. Do atleast 3 coats though.
Next time. Since you havre the dual filament addon, try using two different filaments for the supports and the model. PETG for the model and PLA for the supports. They dont bond to each other so they can be removed without a problem.
This was a super interesting video! I love seeing practical applications of additive printing.
I had another interesting video suggestion for you Dawid: Can you create a setup that would allow you to fry an egg on the heat generated from a PC? I did some research and I think it would be possible but I think that only you could actually try something like this.
What I want is that MX vertical, but smaller. It's just too large for me and that's a pity, because I like the idea.
I had the same issue with the MX Ergo trackball. Went for an M575 in the end.
I've been working on the same exact project for the past few months...what a coincidence!!! Great video!!
Part 2 when??
Love to see you try wireless charging and rechargeable batteries!! Then when your done, just place it on a USB wireless charger. Also were you going with white? If not, reprint it in a different color filament, or sand it and paint it!
Either way, love the custom mouse! I need to try this.. my hand also cramps after hours of Photoshop or video editing..
Welcome to the painful wonderful world that is 3d printing ❤ oh, I wanna try this with clear resin now
You should do more peripheral enthusiast stuff imo, loved this video :D
Awesomesauce video Dawid!! Your 2nd step to solve your puney carpal tunnel problem, get an arm support from Vivo. I tried one at work. OMG, so much less pain!!!
DUDE! This is rad! I have horrible wrists from working detail intensive labor work my whole life and have been looking for a vertical gaming mouse forever. I may have to copy this!
Keep at it Dawid. Love the video
Awesome project! From the title I thought you had a crack at Bambulab's 3D-printed mouse kit, so it was a pleasant surprise to to see that you used an actual gaming mouse. Carbon Fibre based filament was definitely not a good choice for a mouse, a lot of tests show that most tend to shed microscopic carbon fibres and these get embedded in your skin - pretty inconvenient for a mouse.
If you didn't already use 60/40 lead solder get some, when de soldering go and resolder the joints first with fresh solder it will help tremendously.
Loving the intros and new hair doo.
Need some speed holes for cooling on that mouse design in my opinion. Thank you david
Dawid, your struggle with soldering is exactly what I experience too. Great job sticking with it.
Since you have an AMS on the printer, little trick: PLA and PETG don't like to bond, so if you use one for the part and the other for supports they separate REALLY easily. Or get a spool of PVA for supports, it dissolves in water.
Oh, and I think gaming with "office" mice isn't that bad. I'm using an MX Ergo (a trackball) and it works fine. Though I have to say that I don't play shooters.
You have a 3d printer now, you can 3d print "helping hands" to hold the wires and PCB's while you solder. It makes life ALOT easier.
Yes you can just buy them, but printing them is cheap and fun. It's also a good way to familiarise yourself with your slicer and level up your printing skill.
Impressive piece of handiwork! 👌😉
Dawid!! I really appreciate the amount of work you put in this video. Must've took weeks to complete! ❤️❤️❤️ Keep up the awesome content.
crazy project, loved the vid!!
I'd recommend using ABS filament feels much nicer in the hand and it has higher temp resistance than PLA so you can also use it for computer parts. Only downside is that ABS get a little stinky and for bigger parts it might start to warp. Oh yeah you can also vapour smooth ABS parts in acetone it becomes well..... smooth :P
If you want super easy support removal with PLA use PETG for the support material (and vice versa). Those materials are incompatible with each other and won't stick!
ABS and PETG are very compatable so if you want to use them for color prints or multi material prints.
If you are getting wrist pain from mere mouse usage, your desk is too high. Consider a slideout under desk keyboard+mouse tray. Im in my early 40s I've never had carpal tunnel or any wrist or hand pain in my entire life unless literally had a recent biking tumble. I have to wreath things around at work, also as a cook and gardener by hobby. Back in the early 2000s noticed my wrists didnt like being much higher than my waist while using a mouse, it caused a dull ache. 20 years later seems they were telling me something important.
Well - you always can higher or lower your chair (if you have a bit good one). A rule of thumb is that when you place your elbow on the desk, and make a fist and let your chin rest on that fist, you should look straight forward. If you look up or down, your height has to be adjusted.
It's Dawid time & time for my morning coffee as well. What a blessing!
You hit it out of the park with this one bud
There's one thing to be said about 3D printing though: you will become INCREDIBLE at problem-solving. Particularly structural problems that aren't really problems.
@Denariio owes Dawid a $100 🤣
@@aprole87 He really does. 😂
A cool tip for 3d printing is to use petg as an interface for pla, and vice versa, it should break free a lot easer and you dont have to mess with dedicated support material just make sure to up your flush volumes co you dont get contamination. Alternatively there are also disolvable supports that can help with some of the more difficult prints.
Woah, I'm literally doing the same thing as your friend but planning on adding the numpad from the g600 on the side. Awesome vid as always
One of the best 3d printers out there
having done some mouse modding, i know that you gotta love that feeling when it goes together and works! - this was a cool video, maybe a v2 follow up with different materials?
Wouldn't it be easier to just use the shell of the Logitech vertical mouse, replacing just the PCB, instead of 3d printing it?
Nice Bagpuss reference at 7:55 :)
Well that was cool. We definitely need a part 2 on this. Fix the clicking issue and figure out a better(less sweaty) material for the shell, or maybe a simple paint job could remedy that. If all else fails you could just cover it in those mouse grip tape things lol.
Sanding it down will help as well.
Many RUclipsrs I watch put fresh flux and then solder on and only then remove the old solder point. This is supposed to help it flow better. Try that next time. Probably lead free from the factory so you need to use that as well.
Yup, learned this trick when I first started soldering. Leaded solder is best for this, modern PCBs don't use it and it's a higher melting point so a pain to remove.
Just started a 3d printing buisness and I understand ell the struggles Bambu is amazing
CF filament can be a health hazard, would not recommend using it if there is constant skin contact.
I'm actually afraid for him
3D printing is about as fun as completely the Honey-do-list.
This was interesting. More of this kind of stuff please! Cheers.
If you want to smooth out the shell I suggest reprinting in a material similar to Polysmooth. Once it’s done you just suspend it in a box with some IPA at the bottom and have the fumes smooth it out.
Also in your case while using the AMS you may want to consider getting a cheap spool of petg and using that as a support interface material. Reason being is pla can’t bind to petg so the supports just come right off.
Could dip the housing in silicone or something like that might help grip feel
I would definitely do some post-printing work on that mouse, at the minimum sanding and fixing it, best would be to also prime and (spray) paint it. That will increase the longevity of the mouse, and improve haptics. Also, painting would make it look pretty! And it's fun.
...
This reminds me of the two projects I still have to perform some post printing work. *sighs*
I have found my Elegoo to be very resilient to vibrations on a table. Smarter software wizards than me have built quite a lot of on the fly compensation into it, as my workbench also will sometimes wobble about this violently underneath the printer. To my knowledge, any failed print I've ever had isn't because of the wobble it sometimes generates. Still, floor solution is best solution.
Quick mention, you might want to get some dot ptfe, or whatever material feet for its for better glide
I use a Lift to play and is the best gaming mouse I always had. The "semi-infinite" wheel scroll almost makes me forget about my Hero G502. I'm left-handed, you can picture me using a mouse the wrong way since 2006.
This is why I want a 3d printer. Now I must watch this man live my dream.
@baronvonslambert ahh he'll naw , A1 mini cost just slightly more than 200€ and is far more superior than the dogpoo that creality makes. Seriously ender 3 ? This printer requires huge amount off care and upgrades and it might print well sometimes, with bambu just upload the file and wait and it's ready out of the box
I bought an Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo last year during Black Friday deals. 167.50€. Nice little printer, and they are routinely available for around 180. Shouldn't be much different in the US. Will need a little tuning the correct extruder head height to set up, but that's the case with all 3D printers...
Dude’s humor is unmatched
Oh no. dawid gonna be hooked on the 3d printing now
This was a really fun thing to design and build. I hope you enjoy your dream mouse once you manage to fully assemble it.
Dawid I don’t think you’ve ever built a keeb before! You gotta do that someday and hit every budget like $50, $100, $500 or even higher. I’d love to see what kind of silliness you’d put together
The only tech youtuber that does not spread toxicity or arrugancy all over, funny and good content, all relaxed even his pain 😅❤
Liked before started. This guy is just funny.
Resin printing might be best if you want a really smooth finish on this.
Vertical mice are amazing, and i'm mad that there aren't any decent gaming mice
Tip for 3d printing: the thing on top is for multiple materials. Colors are cool and all, buuuut… PLA and PETG don’t bond, meaning that you can make something with one material, and supports with the other and the removal will be easy peasy.
hey bud well done on your mouse project
Enjoyed the madness, sir!
STL files are used in CAD, but contain no information but the mesh. I have used STLs to generate a model around them and that works great if the model is not that complex. It is good that you have entered the 3D printing world. And it is true that filament drying is important, even if the filament came sealed. You will have a better quality, less stringy print. I want to see part two or an update with the mouse "fixed", because I think it is a great idea to fit a good mouse hardware into other shapes, not the first time I have seen it, but it is the first time I see that Logitech ergonomic mouse shape being used for it.
Everyone else in the techosphere : here's a thing and what you should think about it.
David : here is a thing, and it's cursed by Alma
nice build. though i think it would have been far better design to go with a "gun handle" shaped vertical mouse. The vertical mouse, while you can get used to it, it will pretty much always have the issue of mouse clicks causing the bod of the mouse to move slightly because of the way youre now clicking sideways, and not down into the mouse. which is fine for office work, but for gaming.
Personally i think an even better solution is to off load all the buttons to your left hand with something like the azeron controller, which also gives you thumbstick based movement. and then youre just aiming with your right hand, so not pressing the fire button with your right hand prevents any mouse movement when pressing the fire button with your left hand.
Speaking of the Dark Ages!! You all still use Mice you have to pick up and slide around on a mat!! How Barbaric! LOL! Been using a Logi ERGO M575 for Years! Should try it sometime Dawid!