Just got done changing mine in a gas station. I did it entirely from the top, no jacking it up or taking any wheels off. My wife helped me - she watched. I took water tank put of the way, disconnected the fuel sensor device from the firewall to help with clearance getting it out. Forgot to take deep 15mm so it was tricky getting alternator nuts off. Took studs out with small 1/4 inch 12 point ratchet, rotated alternator to get wire and plug off - plug is a ' squeeze ' release. Jockeyed the alternator over towards the battery and out the top. I had also removed the top heat shield of exhaust for extra clearance. Luckily I had been there before and all those bolts came out good for me. I already had an extra alternator as I was going to replace the brush contact assembly - the part on the rotor. Now I will have to do that with the original alternator. Then I will get to have this fun all over again.
1. This is the best replacement video out there. 2. If you own one of these absolutely get the lifetime warranty on the alternator. Ford mis-specced these alternators so they are a common failure, had mine since 07' and done it 5 times. Solid car otherwise. 3. Everyone else pretty much recommends pulling it from the bottom after removing rear engine mount and pivoting engine forward, you hit the key by removing the mounting bolts and jostling it from the top. It's possible without removing the bolts but you have to remove the heat shielding. Your way is fastest. 4. Thanks for making the video, it was a great refresher for the 5th alternator I've put in this thing ha ha
This video really is a great video. You left nothing out, which alot of ppl skip around and leave stuff out. To me, every detail is important! One thing to let you know and other ppl know is, the belt tensioner has a little bolt shaped thing built into the tensioner itself to put a socket on. It's silver like the rest of the silver that it's made out of. This way you don't put the socket/wrench on the pulley bolt. This little bolt shaped thing is right below the pulley. Hope this makes sense. Thank you for your video!!!
All these mechanics are charging bout $500 both for parts n labor wen all it takes is an early day wake up and sum elbow grease and buying the alternator online cheaper n saving bout $400!! Good shit man!!
@@benhajdu4040 that’s you’re problem and that goes wit the territory.. wat I’m saying if u can do it urself and save $$$ then do it!! I’m sure u can read and understand
Very informative, thanks. I like that you did it step by step and even showed everything from top and bottom. I learned more from your video then others. I like how you explained why two ppl is preferred but not necessarily needed.
Great video. My tensioner had a 15 mm adapter to make the adjustment of the belt easier. Great detsils, i wa able to get alternator out from the top. Focus 2006 Zx4.2l
FYI....BAT light on the dash means a problem with the charging system. We assume it means the ALT is not charging. It also means the ALT is over-charging and this will begin burning out things like blower fan resistor and ECM. Ask me how I know.....
Thanks for video,best way to do replacement I think.... I might add when replacing,use OEM or good quality....made in China you'll be replacing after 3 months!!
The problem these alternators have is the built in voltage regulator. When you buy a rebuilt the regulator may not have been replaced or just cheap electronics. If you're going to replace one of these in a Focus BUY NEW ! Don't buy a rebuilt. Stick with name brand for a new one like Motorcraft or AC Delco.
I'm going on my third alternator 😢thanks for video. I wonder why ford is having problems with focus alternators ?! The least they could have done was to design it up top! Buy one with lifetime warranty!
0:50 I did try this on my Sisters car that i did suspect a faulty or about to fail alternator it did not die with light and radio off then I put low beam and radio on it still worked but as soon I put high beam on car died so I did then go on with changing the alternator :)
My car has the same charging issue with the battery light constantly turning on and off. Will this affect the performance of my car because when my ac is on my car runs super sluggish and sometimes it doesn’t with the ac on. Very strange.
What to do to remove the 15mm nuts? The one nut on top is now nearly rounded. Please help. The nut is not coming off and have applied the wd 40 and other lubricant.
@AndreychukAndrey I have to try removing the stud as I haven't tried yet. To confirm, there is another stud underneath and that'll take ¼ as well it looks like. I don't understand the mechanics behind this and why it couldn't be bolts all uniform and throughout.
Pig of a job. There is a number of videos like this but my 2007 2.0 petrol was different from all of them. My alternator is at the front behind the radiator not by the firewall. A video on the 2008 1.8 was close but still not quite the same. I had to remove the front headlamp, tensioner, water reservoir remove the bolts to the chassis for the top engine mount and push the engine back...and undo the fixings for the main power lead to the alternator so that I could drop it far enough to undo the clip (it came out the bottom). On the plus side the alternator was held in with bolts (no nuts and studs).
never ever dis connect battery with eng . on you will destroy computer use volt meter never remove battery with key on 50 year mechanic never never ever !!!!!
147k miles on my 2006 Focus, never needed any work done until the alternator went out recently. Ford's are like any other vehicle, if you take care of them they will last. You want to talk about shit designs, try changing the alternator on my wife's 2009 Audi.. That was a 2 day job and lots of alcohol to recover from the trauma lol.
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Nice work, you are the first I have seen to pull the alternator from the top.
Just got done changing mine in a gas station. I did it entirely from the top, no jacking it up or taking any wheels off.
My wife helped me - she watched.
I took water tank put of the way, disconnected the fuel sensor device from the firewall to help with clearance getting it out. Forgot to take deep 15mm so it was tricky getting alternator nuts off. Took studs out with small 1/4 inch 12 point ratchet, rotated alternator to get wire and plug off - plug is a ' squeeze ' release. Jockeyed the alternator over towards the battery and out the top. I had also removed the top heat shield of exhaust for extra clearance. Luckily I had been there before and all those bolts came out good for me.
I already had an extra alternator as I was going to replace the brush contact assembly - the part on the rotor. Now I will have to do that with the original alternator.
Then I will get to have this fun all over again.
1. This is the best replacement video out there.
2. If you own one of these absolutely get the lifetime warranty on the alternator. Ford mis-specced these alternators so they are a common failure, had mine since 07' and done it 5 times. Solid car otherwise.
3. Everyone else pretty much recommends pulling it from the bottom after removing rear engine mount and pivoting engine forward, you hit the key by removing the mounting bolts and jostling it from the top. It's possible without removing the bolts but you have to remove the heat shielding. Your way is fastest.
4. Thanks for making the video, it was a great refresher for the 5th alternator I've put in this thing ha ha
This video really is a great video. You left nothing out, which alot of ppl skip around and leave stuff out. To me, every detail is important! One thing to let you know and other ppl know is, the belt tensioner has a little bolt shaped thing built into the tensioner itself to put a socket on. It's silver like the rest of the silver that it's made out of. This way you don't put the socket/wrench on the pulley bolt. This little bolt shaped thing is right below the pulley. Hope this makes sense. Thank you for your video!!!
This video would of helped me so much the first time I changed the alternator. Good job explaining it man.
All these mechanics are charging bout $500 both for parts n labor wen all it takes is an early day wake up and sum elbow grease and buying the alternator online cheaper n saving bout $400!! Good shit man!!
Just pay for my 10k hoist, my 600k shop, and my 50k in tools. But I should do it for free right? You are cheap. It's OK.
@@benhajdu4040 that’s you’re problem and that goes wit the territory.. wat I’m saying if u can do it urself and save $$$ then do it!! I’m sure u can read and understand
@@mr.sinister1279 sure
@@benhajdu4040 I do all my own work
Very informative, thanks. I like that you did it step by step and even showed everything from top and bottom. I learned more from your video then others. I like how you explained why two ppl is preferred but not necessarily needed.
Great video. I should have watched it through first and then removed my alternator and not just follow along- but it worked.
Great video. My tensioner had a 15 mm adapter to make the adjustment of the belt easier. Great detsils, i wa able to get alternator out from the top. Focus 2006 Zx4.2l
Thank you, glad I found your video. VERY helpful.
I am at awe how you actually got it to come out of the Top I have found that if you remove the drive shaft you will be able to get it done..
you are an absolute legend mate. many thanks!
This helped but I had to move my engine to make it easier to take it out from the top, woulda loved to see that part
FYI....BAT light on the dash means a problem with the charging system. We assume it means the ALT is not charging. It also means the ALT is over-charging and this will begin burning out things like blower fan resistor and ECM. Ask me how I know.....
But it was the alternator.
Tip…. Loosen the nuts on the studs and then take the studs out
Thanks for video,best way to do replacement I think.... I might add when replacing,use OEM or good quality....made in China you'll be replacing after 3 months!!
The problem these alternators have is the built in voltage regulator. When you buy a rebuilt the regulator may not have been replaced or just cheap electronics. If you're going to replace one of these in a Focus BUY NEW ! Don't buy a rebuilt. Stick with name brand for a new one like Motorcraft or AC Delco.
Is it possible to run wires out to a separate one?
Andrey Great video! This video helped me out a lot!
I'm going on my third alternator 😢thanks for video. I wonder why ford is having problems with focus alternators ?! The least they could have done was to design it up top! Buy one with lifetime warranty!
I think it was a mistake to bury it and right next to the exhaust manifold 😐 it’s probably overheated 90% of its lifetime
Best video by far. Thanks.
Great video, it helped me soooo much, thank you…🙂
E plastic shields behind the Alternator and elbow have to back on? Make me wonder if they hold heat and reduce the life of the Alternator?
0:50 I did try this on my Sisters car that i did suspect a faulty or about to fail alternator it did not die with light and radio off then I put low beam and radio on it still worked but as soon I put high beam on car died so I did then go on with changing the alternator :)
May god bless you br❤🎉
Good job 👌⚒️
Really shouldn’t pull terminals off the battery while it’s running. Could fry some computers.
Thanks!
My car has the same charging issue with the battery light constantly turning on and off. Will this affect the performance of my car because when my ac is on my car runs super sluggish and sometimes it doesn’t with the ac on. Very strange.
Probably the alternator going out.
What to do to remove the 15mm nuts? The one nut on top is now nearly rounded. Please help. The nut is not coming off and have applied the wd 40 and other lubricant.
Can you give me a time stamp in the video.
@@AndreychukAndrey 8:30 thank you.
Can you remove the stud? Instead of the nut?
@@AndreychukAndrey I will definitely try. The vehicle I'm working on is a 2009.
@AndreychukAndrey I have to try removing the stud as I haven't tried yet. To confirm, there is another stud underneath and that'll take ¼ as well it looks like. I don't understand the mechanics behind this and why it couldn't be bolts all uniform and throughout.
Pig of a job. There is a number of videos like this but my 2007 2.0 petrol was different from all of them. My alternator is at the front behind the radiator not by the firewall. A video on the 2008 1.8 was close but still not quite the same. I had to remove the front headlamp, tensioner, water reservoir remove the bolts to the chassis for the top engine mount and push the engine back...and undo the fixings for the main power lead to the alternator so that I could drop it far enough to undo the clip (it came out the bottom). On the plus side the alternator was held in with bolts (no nuts and studs).
Dad gave me a set just like that
does it need that cover back on
Are you talking about that cover behind the alternator?
You didn't show the actual removal
Can't get the shielding off. Anyone else have this issue? I'm squeezing both tabs and pulling but it will not move.
Try wiggling hard?
Even with channel locks and two other people pressing in on the tabs it will not release.
Try position crowbar somehow and hit with hammer?
never ever dis connect battery with eng . on you will destroy computer use volt meter never remove battery with key on 50 year mechanic never never ever !!!!!
Ok
lol
Thank you, what a mess.
Dumb design. Ford really doesn't know what they're doing. Good video thanks.
Ford engineers were abused by mechanics in their previous lives. They have personal vendetta for mechanics. The way they design things.. unbelievable.
Do not unhook battery while running on modern cars. That trick died in the 70's/ early 80's when computers replaced carburators
Wrong
Wrong!
Idk worked for me.
No sir trick still works
Depends on the vehicle, some wont run even with a good alternator without the battery
My old truck - three bolts, right on top. This sucks.
Ok is this also ford focus 2009
Sorry not sure.
Now i know why ford stopped selling cars, what a pile of shit by design
147k miles on my 2006 Focus, never needed any work done until the alternator went out recently. Ford's are like any other vehicle, if you take care of them they will last. You want to talk about shit designs, try changing the alternator on my wife's 2009 Audi.. That was a 2 day job and lots of alcohol to recover from the trauma lol.
2.0?
Yes