2 25 engine. Fitting the crank
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
Quebec
J1M2A3
Canada
Absolutely billiant video, made by a true master. I feel so much more confident tomorrow fitting the crankshaft atter watching this video.
You can do it!
Fantastic Mike.
Great to see a master at work rebuilding the good old 2.25 petrol.
For many of us older Land Rover enthusiasts, the 2.25 petrol was where it all began.
Like the Cavern Club to the Beatles or Marylebone to cricket - that’s where the LR love affair began for me. 👍
Years ago I used Wynns or STP oil additive - thick treacly stuff - when assembling bearings
That will work!
Great memories come flooding back watching you do this rebuild Mike. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
Thanks Rob!
" Stick around " - you been watching Fitzee doing his body panels ?
lol! Nope!
Can't wait to see the the rear main seal fitment. Oh no, Its a 5 main engine, would love a video on 3 main rear main seal fiment.
Woohoo. Expert at work. Fantastic. Thanks Mike. 😃
Thanks again!
Good video😁👍
Thanks for the visit
Always slow and patient. 😉 Cheers King Mike 🥃
“Wish you could touch it, and the crank” 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
Beautiful fit up
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
The very best engine Land Rover ever made, 200 & 300 Tdi engines were great engines but nowhere near as robust and easy to work on. Just wish 2.25 blocks were as hard wearing though but a different time back then. Have both & love them both but if I had to choose it would always be the 2.25.
Hi Mike your right the Lucas is a great product. I used to use a product called Lubraplate it is a very thin lithium grease that coats the bearings for start up and will mix with the break in oil.
My father-in-law used it on in frames on heavy equipment.
Thanks for the info!
Hi Mike. Great video - did a three bearing one and had to use modern materials as end seal - they must of leaked like mad when they left the factory
Great tip!
If I remember correctly the military version of the 2 1/4 petrol used the diesel crankshaft as it was drop forged steel instead of cast iron made it more Squaddie proof !
Very interesting watch mike.👍
Glad you enjoyed it
you must trust your machine shop....I normally sneek up on the max torque, rotating the crank as I go, normally in three stages....30, 70, 100 and STOP if it starts binding at any point.
Crank was STD and not machined
You have made rebuilding a 2.25 less scary thank you for sharing Mike 😊 🙏
Aha very good stuff ! I’ve been saying for ages I should get a new torque wrench even after I have I still always go for my old britool must be habit
Right on
If your looking for a new torque wrench you can't go past Warren and Brown from Australia I prefer their beam type 👍🏻
Yes I was looking at those
Great as usual, just one question on the crank bolts, do you oil the bolts or dry, cylinder head bolts are usually oiled slightly, it would alter the torque applied i think?
Thought you might do a radial "plasti-gage" clearance check on the main bearings before boxing them up, it was a used crank, new shells wasn't it Mike?
Is there a difference to the 3 bearing engine? I could not get the front top seal retainer in with the crankshaft in place.
Yes the rear seal is a lot better being a regular oil seal
Hi Mike, I followed this method using the Loctite SI5980 then realised I should have fitted the rear oil seal with the spring first. When I stripped the rear bearing out again I noticed that the Loctite had not set (even after a month). Granted its winter in the UK and the temperature hasnt been in double figures for a while so is this the reason why it hasn't set ? Cheers Ant
Could be old stock - I know it does not keep even unopened
Hmmm I'm doing a 3 bearing petro 2.25L. Bearings in and torqued. I can rotate the crank but not in a nice lazy fashion. The machine shop took all the measurements, I'm just doing assembly. Concerned.
Have you tried plastigauge to measure the bearing clearance?
www.plastigaugeusa.com/
@@BritannicaRestorations I was hoping that this check was already done. But I can easily disassemble and check.
Ordered two set of Plastigauge. Looks like tolerance should be (0.0006 - 0.002).
With heavy oil on the crank, it should turn by hand smoothly (without rods naturally!)
the 3 bearing should be quite easy to turn
what type of digital indicator is that?
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C9MZ858/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@BritannicaRestorations
Thank you for replying so quickly
how well do these match up with mitutoyo's.
You trust this 100%?
Also this pretty much does all the guess work of parallax with the old conventional dial indicators out of the guess work instead which means 100% win win with the digital versions, right?
You can hypothetically attach these to a bore gauge and this should also work?
Can those thrust washers spin?
No they are held in by the bearing cap which his wider
Ow ok thank you
Please give me your mauval book
Hip to be square….or perhaps just orthogonal.