You are right on the money! 1. Completely strip the boat down, flip over and put on sawhorse supports 2. Inspect and repair all seams and welds on the outside (do the same inside and use a seam sealer inside) 3. Sand and repaint outside while you can turn boat upside down 4. Rebuild inside using a marine grade plywood that has three coats of polyurethane (be sure to seal edges) then a marine grade carpet 5. Be sure to check wood in transom. GREAT CHANNEL BY THE WAY!!!!!!
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground I said what I said based on experience. And, whether you use basic plywood or marine grade a boat cover is just common sense. But, I still highly recommend marine grade plywood for good reason. And although it's true there a million ways to skin a cat, why skin it if you don't have to?
Hey Joe, great work! A tip, if I may. When using the circular saw, set the depth of the blade just below the thickness of your wood, it’s easier on the tool and easier for cutting a radius. Love your content! Oh one more thing, the foam under the floors act as buoyancy control should you take on water.
Nice boat Joe! I am retired and owned a marine business. Don’t forget Black gets real hot on aluminum sitting in the sun. Just an FYI. Great project. 👍👍👍. 3M makes a good adhesive remover for old adhesive.
As a life long boater, strongly suggest you NOT paint the boat exterior BLACK. No boaters or fishermen like black or the heat it causes on small boats. Best exterior colors are very light, i.e. white or similar. Best wishes and congrats on your willingness to tackle new DIY project!
I agree. A lighter color is safer as it's easier to be seen by other boats which helps avoid possible collisions and in the event that the boat capsizes, it's easier for rescue vessels to spot you in the water.🚣
Just purchased a 2000 16ft Alumacraft...needed a little work, not to bad. Took it up to Fremont for the bass run. Yamaha 25hp ran great. Caught lots and lots of White Bass...this video is awesome. Tight lines!
Joe nice rejuvenation , I hope you used Stainless screws and staples as they will rust and stain. Also aluminum rivets. That black paint will be very hot in the sun. Aluminum absorbs heat from the sun quickly. You really should’ve reused the flotation foam. It is integral to the boat’s flotation if capsized or taking on water.
i am surprised you did not replace the foam its a safety issue as well dampens the noise while traveling in the water looks nice you have a lot of work still ahead you keep up the great work. PS when making long cuts try cutting a quarter way along and then go back to the other side and then make your final cut. thanks for sharing and i hope you have a wonderful day with the family
@eugenesbackyardrepair4593 I am currently refinishing a 1998 Tracker Pro Team 175 and the decals were so difficult to try to scrape. So I ended up buying a couple rubber wheels. It was still quite a process but much easier and quicker than scraping. Didn't mar up my boat either! Good Suggestion!
A quick way to remove the old graphics is to go to a big box store and pick up a half gallon of MEK in the paint aisle. I retired from a company that made that pressure-sensitive vinyl and we always used MEK to clean it up, it removed it really quickly.
you can also use one of those eraser wheels on an angle grinder, or drill i did that as well, and then used MEK to clean up the residue.. i used MEK daily in the air force when i painted jets, it is amazing.. but DO NOT leave it on your bare skin. use industrial strength neoprene gloves.. one use gloves will dissolve in MEK in about 30 seconds.
Have to admire your willingness to take on new projects like this. Some of the "you should have ... (enter recommendation here) " things are well intentioned, but everybody has to remember, nobody is born with this knowledge. We learn best by making some mistakes I think. These guys are correct in the type of plywood, and the screws to use. It is more expensive, by a LONG shot, but more permanent. Kudo's for doing all of this yourself, and being willing to just jump in outside your comfort zone and take it on.
Great job ! A few suggestions. Treated lumber contains copper which reacts with aluminum. That being said 2 part fiberglass resin and regular plywood is a good way to go. Also, you need to add a low density foam under that subfloor and anywhere else you can. Google reserve buoyancy formula and you’ll find a formula to help you figure out how much you will need . Without reserve buoyancy that boat is dangerous and all your hard work will be at the bottom of the lake should you take on water. Storm, big boat wake like a barge or yacht, pop up storm and wind, forget or lose your drain plug , hit a wake funny or spear your boat into a wave, park your boat on a beach at an angle and medium sized waves can make their way over the transom without it being obvious at first. ( I know this firsthand), Anyway, it sucks but taking the time to unscrew that floor and other components to put foam in could potentially save a life. You might want to check with your state laws and regulations on the liability or legality of even running a boat with no reserve buoyancy. To be honest I’m not sure about the laws on the matter but I know a water craft can’t be coast guard approved without it.
Great Comment. That is what I have learned so far after studying intensely these boat rebuilds. We all need to learn and that is what the comment section is for. I am taking all the paint off my 12ft aluminum that somebody else painted. Cheers.
Like others have mentioned, you should have either reused the foam blocks, or put new foam in! Hopefully you never take on water! That foam keeps boats buoyant if you swamp. Plus reduces noise. Aluminum boats are noisy
I've restored a lot of stuff in my day and to me the best way to go about it is to completely strip everything off and start from there, remove motor, that top piece in the front, all wiring/cables, console the whole ball of wax then get the hull cleaned up and one by one rebuild each item one at a time and when your done you have a brand new boat or what ever your working on essentially. Not saying your doing it wrong by any means but that is just how I have learned over the years is the best way to do any restoration, yes it takes a little longer and cost more money but the end product is always worth it, usually anyway lol. I live for this kind of stuff and enjoy it immensely. Always have and probably always will. I'm 61 and still do this type of stuff.
Hey, Bubba, we love the channel and have subscribed. We flip ATVs as well. But our mainstay is boats, outboards, etc. We noticed a couple things that might help you with such a project. 1) Goo-gone is not ideal. We recommend full strength acetone for those pesky stickers. They come right off with acetone. 2) Marine plywood is def the way to go as the waterproofing chemicals are much better than pressure-treated. But the biggest reason to use it is that is takes resin better than other wood. You really do need to glass-in the wood with epoxy resin. Water will get underneath the floor and rot it out surprisingly quickly. We would have put 4-5 coats of glass with chop-strand fiberglass cloth for added strength. 3) You also have to change the engine oil as well as the lower unit oil. 4) You would also have to change the water pump/impeller. Those are toast in about 3 years. Anyhow, keep producing content; we'll keep watching! Also, if you ever want to do a collab, let us know!
Great suggestions regarding glassing in the new plywood including the bottoms and edges. From an old guy that has done from14' to 45' power and sailboats..
Not sure if I missed it or if it was mentioned but good insurance on a newly acquired boat is to replace the impeller in the lower unit. It's a cheap and relatively easy job as a precaution to keep from getting stranded on the water. I've been there. I know yours was originally squirting water, but not knowing the condition of it, or how long it's been in there, they can go bad in a second. Looks great and starting to come together!!
That's why it's called a boat, bust out another thousand!! People buy boats new and enjoy for years and never take a lot of time to do maintenance. Next thing you know you don't have any more time, your old, or sick so the boat just sits and is pretty much forgotten. I guess just like anything else. All it takes is two by threes or two by fours laid across the boat from bow to stern, then two or three blue tarps and several ratchet straps around the top edge, and would have been protected for years. Or take it to a marina and have it shrink wrapped, then tarp it. Just my two cents worth. It's no fun doing this. Thanks for sharing buddy!!
Joe there is a reason the foam is inside the bottom of the rails it's to keep the boat floating if it gets filled with water I would replace the foam myself but it looks great and I agree with the other comments don't paint it black light blue is better. 😊
My tips for speeding up the process would be: Paint stripper and scraper would have made short work of the stickers and glue on the outside of the boat. (The way you did it looked like pretty hard!) 'Raptor' paint kit would have been good for painting inside and out (Same stuff used for bed liners in pick ups). Also wouldn't pick black for safety and a black deck can get pretty hot! A little bit of muratic acid and a scrubbing brush mounted on a mop handle might have been a better choice to clean and prep the inside of the boat for painting undercoat finishing with a pressure wash. Oh yeah, and perhaps you could have changed the impellar on the outboard as it's cheap and easy to do. Would have used marine grade ply and or would have primed and sealed the ply board to save it from rotting again straght away. Enjoying the project! Thank you!
Should have gotten the marine board, not pressure treated. Also, stainless steel screws would have been better than zinc coated because the heads will eventually rust and pop off the heads. Lastly, no foam was replaced to help with floatation? Oh my...
@@2vintage I know, but you don't want to do this again do you? Pressure treated isn't meant to be consistently wet like marine board and will come apart and rot and become weak within a couple of years. Maybe sooner with the carpet retaining moisture
I think you might have over filled the lower unit. There is a screw about halfway between the ones you have out. Ive seen a few lower units with additional vent screws. Not 100% sure on that motor but itd be worth looking into before all the gear oil push out the prop seal
looks great, the foam is for positive floatation all boats 22' and under are required to have some kind. they make a 2 part expanding foam you can pour in under the plywood it can make a mess if not done right.
@@2vintage Next time you have to cut plywood place the sawhorses further apart and place some 2x's on them to lay the plywood on. Set your saw depth to a little over the thickness of the ply and it won't bind up like that.
Looking good, I would definitely ditch the black paint though. I painted a boat black once and instantly regretted it… way to hot. Ended up repainting it with light gray which worked out nicely.
Did you use marine epoxy to seal the plywood before gluing the exterior carpet on it? I restored a Lund all alumnium fishing boat, my whole subfloor was completely rotted out where I didn't even have a template to use, I had to fabricate the templates from cardboard taped together lol. Fun project for sure. And rivet all the pieces back into the boat
It would be a very good idea to seal that wood with some sort of paint or varnish so that it doesnt become water logged and rot away like the old stuff did. maybe too late now, but hey time will tell. keep learning Joe, your doing a good job.
When I redid my boat floor many years ago I used the old wood for pattern. I laid them on the new wood and traced around them. Worked like a charm. When using staples, make sure they are Stainless or they will eventually rust away due to humidity.
I would recommend changing the impellor in the lower unit, The impellor pulls water up through your engine for cooling. Age hardens them, then they break.
I posted that last time. Change pump impeller and service the lower end. ( change oil,gaskets,seals). Bet he thinks it's working and the pisser is moving water so it's good. Gonna be one of those who learns when the motor seizes. Servicing that motor should be first on the list especially due to the time he knows it sat. I bet the lower end has never been done. He did the oil that's a start I guess.
In the future Joe they have a wheel that goes right in a drill that takes stickers and old paint off and doesn't hurt the metal under it and kinda preps it for new paint. All you need to do is clean surfaces b4 new paint. Great job tho! I did an 18foot open bow rider by 4winns
Considering the age of the motor, I would have liked to see you replace the impeller. That being said, looking forward to seeing this finished product!
Looking great! I would polish the aluminum on the outside instead of painting black. Might be a little more work, but a buffing wheel would speed it up.
Nice job! That’s going to be a great boat. I know others have said already but you should put that extra buoyancy back under the floor, It will stop your boat from sinking completely if you get swamped.
As you were power washing I was thinking Joe's making mouse poop soup again. I would o scrapped the boat and sold the motor and trailer. Good job though.
As a boat restoration guy I can say there’s much easier way to do carpet but it’s hard to explain over text easier shown in person but not bad using that method 👌🏽next time run the carpet up the hull further it helps with sound damping. Cheers mate
Well sir I am impressed! You've done a lot of work on it by yourself in 3 days. It's really a 2 person job especially when cutting the plywood. Looks pretty good so far. At this point it's a blank canvas and you can reconfigure it if you choose. Maybe more seating. Thanks again for your time today and good luck with this project.
If you are planning on selling, if use a buffer and aluminum polish on the outside, before adding striping or new decals. Definitely worth the investment to do, as more appealing to a buyer.
Did you put the foam back under the plywood? I wouldn't paint the exterior. If it were mine, I would polish that aluminum and put graphics, maybe clear over it. I know it's your boat, it's just what I would do. The resto is coming along nicely.
Your saw horses have notches in the top so you can slide 2x4’s into the notches and spread them out when u cut long plywood. You may know this already.
The styrofoam was there for a reason; you forgot to replace it. And the black interior is going to collect heat in the summer; it’ll feel like you’re riding in a frying pan. But your work is good. Great job
That's one mouse that did not get cold last winter. And i would still change the impeller pump since it sat and gotten brittle it might save you a tow back to shore.
You know that foam insulation that was under the floor was there for a reason you should have put it back in there even the old foam you took out would have been better than nothing helps the boat in many different ways
The foam should of been reinstalled. #1 buoyancy #2 sound dampening when walking #3 helps support wood flooring. I did a 14" boat restore yrs ago I made my mistakes and lost $$ on that project. Great vid
Turtle wax decal remover works really well for removing the adhesive glue. I had some bumper stickers on my truck bumper that were 30 years old, sprayed it down with the old turtle wax adhesive remover, bam, easy breezy lemon squeezy!!!
i would pull the floor out and pour some two part floatation foam where the styrofoam was when you gutted it. Its there for a reason and is likely necessary to stay afloat if the boat starts taking on water. You should also de-rig the moater and all of the through hull fittings when you paint so it doesn't look janky. Good luck!
How did you measure the arcs for the new floor since you didn’t save the old pieces for a template? Seems like that would have taken a while to get just right.
Aircraft stripper in a Aerisol can makes easy work with decals/ graphics that are burnt on fused on ..lol.. then hit it with the pressure washer..and done..been there done that. Restoring a boat can get expensive and quick....looking very good though 👌 UR carpet came out very nice 👌..
For decals they make a rubber wheel for drills, they work really well at getting it all off. It does make a mess of rubber but trust me it saves time scraping.
It's just my opinion but I spent twenty years on a lake,,,, Whatever you paint black on your boat is going to cause blisters and burns every time you touch
I wouldn't deter anyone from taking on a project just because it's a lot of work. Yes, what you did was a ot of work, bit look at what you accomplished in ONLY three days! And you took your time and did a great job! 👍🏽 I encourage people to be more proactive in the things they enjoy, especially if (1) it makes them solve problems/think, and (2) it gets them out of the house. I look forward to the results in the next video which I'm about to watch. Remember, you make these videos to inspire people. Don't ruin that by giving a negative message at the end. Great job kid!
I know foam isn't cheap but if your boat get's a leak your gonna wish you had it. Easiest way is to have someone spray foam the bottom for ya, something to look into and think about.
Lookin good Joe,, great progress.. I would have to agree with comment below, black is not a great color for boats,Maybe a light gray or a version of tan Black will really suck in the heat. I am from Georgia and dont think i have ever seen a black interior on a boat..keep up the good work.Looks great so far..
I see everyone has said what i would have done. Other then that it is a learning experience and you will now on your next one. One thing is keep restoring and you will keep getting better. Do a couple and you will look back and go wow! Its all a learning process. It came out nice. I'm on my 4 rebuild and look back at my first one and see all the stuff i should have done on the other ones. Keep it up and enjoy the boat!!!
Several viewers have commented about omitting the foam. If you are so inclined, you could still add it by drilling a few small holes and using spray cans of expandable foam.
A trick for cutting plywood spread saw horses apart. Use a sheet of plywood as a table. Then use foam board or 2x4's to block the sheet yor cutting. This will stop the wood binding up the blade. Check your depth on saw
i tell ya what,,,for a man that uses a carpenters hammer for automotive applications, a screw driver as a punch,,dropping the transmission fluid hand pump onto the dirt ,cutting curves with a circular hand saw ---I LOVE YOUR WORK!!!! :) ,,great channel ,,very inspiring ,,best wishes from australia
Great to see how many supporters you have. We all love your channel know matter what the build is. Very awesome. My smoker craft pro lodge is all black and looks awesome, yours will too.
Might have been wise to seal ALL hull seams. You did say that water was draining out. Goof Off might be better for adhesive Black is hot. You left a poor plywood edge on port side forward....does not conform...will rub and create a bulge in the aluminum. Good start, and hard work. Might be wise to work with experienced folks on the hull part of the job Marine grade ply, better fasteners. Rust will get you. Hope you can still run your electrics now the carpet is glued. Have fun and enjoy your boat. Hope this all helps. Cheers. 🤔😀
3M woodgrain and stripe remover makes taking the vinyl stripes super easy and the adhesive remover means you don't have to sand it. About 50 bucks for both.
You might want to try a "Decal Remover Eraser Wheel" in your drill to remove the stickers and the adhesive. Available many places on the internet, they work....good luck.
Black is a bad choice. In the sun you want to reflect light and heat. That will absorb heat. Get unbearably hot. Gotta put the foam in. On the water its gonna feel like your in a frying pan. Should have used marine plywood to.
Nice job. That boat should provide years of fun out on the lake. You’ll only have a couple thousand into it and the satisfaction that you rebuilt the whole thing yourself.
A tip for cutting plywood in half. Use sacroficial 2x4s between the saw horses set the depth of your cut just enough to get through the wood. Now you dont have to worry about the offcuts collapsing your horses and falling on the ground. The horses you have already have notches in them to hold the 2x4s.
Keep in mind this is my first time ever working on a boat. Keep the suggestions coming. I need all the help I can get for this project. Thanks!
I've been watching you for years mate it's cool now your branching out doing boats
Joe there are soft wheels you can get for a drill or grinder that will remove the decal . They do work well.
Great job!! I would probably try to polish the aluminum rather than paint it.
You're doing great . I love the variety of machines. Keep in mind the doggo's nose and kids skin with black paint could be be painful.
You might want to reconsider the black paint and go with a light color that reflexes the sun rays.
Those Styrofoam panels are in the bottom of a boat for a reason. It will keep the boat buoyant when you start to sink.
Yeah- I'm pretty surprised you didn't replace that foam. I suppose you could shoot spray foam in there...
Spray foam to fill the cavities, oh well !
There also to make floor more rigged..
Who says it's going to sink
You are right on the money!
1. Completely strip the boat down, flip over and put on sawhorse supports
2. Inspect and repair all seams and welds on the outside (do the same inside and use a seam sealer inside)
3. Sand and repaint outside while you can turn boat upside down
4. Rebuild inside using a marine grade plywood that has three coats of polyurethane (be sure to seal edges) then a marine grade carpet
5. Be sure to check wood in transom.
GREAT CHANNEL BY THE WAY!!!!!!
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground I said what I said based on experience. And, whether you use basic plywood or marine grade a boat cover is just common sense. But, I still highly recommend marine grade plywood for good reason. And although it's true there a million ways to skin a cat, why skin it if you don't have to?
Thank you for the suggestions! That is helpful! I appreciate you watching the videos! I am glad that you enjoy them!
Hey Joe, great work! A tip, if I may. When using the circular saw, set the depth of the blade just below the thickness of your wood, it’s easier on the tool and easier for cutting a radius. Love your content! Oh one more thing, the foam under the floors act as buoyancy control should you take on water.
Nice boat Joe! I am retired and owned a marine business. Don’t forget Black gets real hot on aluminum sitting in the sun. Just an FYI. Great project. 👍👍👍. 3M makes a good adhesive remover for old adhesive.
Yeah, black was probably not a good choice, I see owies in his future.
Thank you for the suggestions! That is very very helpful!
As a life long boater, strongly suggest you NOT paint the boat exterior BLACK. No boaters or fishermen like black or the heat it causes on small boats. Best exterior colors are very light, i.e. white or similar. Best wishes and congrats on your willingness to tackle new DIY project!
I’d keep the aluminum on the outside and gray interior
I agree. A lighter color is safer as it's easier to be seen by other boats which helps avoid possible collisions and in the event that the boat capsizes, it's easier for rescue vessels to spot you in the water.🚣
I have a boat that gets really hot in the summer with a white interior...I can't imagine what it would be like if it were black.
Thank you for the suggestion! I think that I will be using a gray. Thank you for watching!
His money his video.....let him ....🤭🤭🤭
Just purchased a 2000 16ft Alumacraft...needed a little work, not to bad. Took it up to Fremont for the bass run. Yamaha 25hp ran great. Caught lots and lots of White Bass...this video is awesome. Tight lines!
Joe nice rejuvenation , I hope you used Stainless screws and staples as they will rust and stain. Also aluminum rivets. That black paint will be very hot in the sun. Aluminum absorbs heat from the sun quickly. You really should’ve reused the flotation foam. It is integral to the boat’s flotation if capsized or taking on water.
Thank you for the suggestions! I appreciate it!
i am surprised you did not replace the foam its a safety issue as well dampens the noise while traveling in the water looks nice you have a lot of work still ahead you keep up the great work. PS when making long cuts try cutting a quarter way along and then go back to the other side and then make your final cut. thanks for sharing and i hope you have a wonderful day with the family
I agree with you on that but it is in. maybe spray foam to get the boyancy back
Rubber wheel for sticker removal would of probably made job easier
Thank you for the suggestions! This is my first time working on a boat, and I appreciate any thoughts and ideas! I appreciate you watching the video!
@eugenesbackyardrepair4593 I am currently refinishing a 1998 Tracker Pro Team 175 and the decals were so difficult to try to scrape. So I ended up buying a couple rubber wheels. It was still quite a process but much easier and quicker than scraping. Didn't mar up my boat either! Good Suggestion!
A quick way to remove the old graphics is to go to a big box store and pick up a half gallon of MEK in the paint aisle. I retired from a company that made that pressure-sensitive vinyl and we always used MEK to clean it up, it removed it really quickly.
you can also use one of those eraser wheels on an angle grinder, or drill i did that as well, and then used MEK to clean up the residue.. i used MEK daily in the air force when i painted jets, it is amazing.. but DO NOT leave it on your bare skin. use industrial strength neoprene gloves.. one use gloves will dissolve in MEK in about 30 seconds.
Thank you for the suggestions! I appreciate it!
MEK 🤮
Have to admire your willingness to take on new projects like this. Some of the "you should have ... (enter recommendation here) " things are well intentioned, but everybody has to remember, nobody is born with this knowledge. We learn best by making some mistakes I think. These guys are correct in the type of plywood, and the screws to use. It is more expensive, by a LONG shot, but more permanent. Kudo's for doing all of this yourself, and being willing to just jump in outside your comfort zone and take it on.
Thank you for your kindness and for your thoughtful comment! I appreciate your encouragement and suggestions! Thank you!
Great job ! A few suggestions. Treated lumber contains copper which reacts with aluminum. That being said 2 part fiberglass resin and regular plywood is a good way to go. Also, you need to add a low density foam under that subfloor and anywhere else you can. Google reserve buoyancy formula and you’ll find a formula to help you figure out how much you will need . Without reserve buoyancy that boat is dangerous and all your hard work will be at the bottom of the lake should you take on water. Storm, big boat wake like a barge or yacht, pop up storm and wind, forget or lose your drain plug , hit a wake funny or spear your boat into a wave, park your boat on a beach at an angle and medium sized waves can make their way over the transom without it being obvious at first. ( I know this firsthand), Anyway, it sucks but taking the time to unscrew that floor and other components to put foam in could potentially save a life. You might want to check with your state laws and regulations on the liability or legality of even running a boat with no reserve buoyancy. To be honest I’m not sure about the laws on the matter but I know a water craft can’t be coast guard approved without it.
Great Comment. That is what I have learned so far after studying intensely these boat rebuilds. We all need to learn and that is what the comment section is for. I am taking all the paint off my 12ft aluminum that somebody else painted. Cheers.
Like others have mentioned, you should have either reused the foam blocks, or put new foam in! Hopefully you never take on water! That foam keeps boats buoyant if you swamp. Plus reduces noise. Aluminum boats are noisy
Thank you for the suggestions! I appreciate it!
I've restored a lot of stuff in my day and to me the best way to go about it is to completely strip everything off and start from there, remove motor, that top piece in the front, all wiring/cables, console the whole ball of wax then get the hull cleaned up and one by one rebuild each item one at a time and when your done you have a brand new boat or what ever your working on essentially. Not saying your doing it wrong by any means but that is just how I have learned over the years is the best way to do any restoration, yes it takes a little longer and cost more money but the end product is always worth it, usually anyway lol. I live for this kind of stuff and enjoy it immensely. Always have and probably always will. I'm 61 and still do this type of stuff.
It is kind of wrong though. He didn't use the proper wood, screws, carpet glue, or replace the foam for floatation
It is rewarding! Thank you for the suggestions! I appreciate it!
Hey, Bubba, we love the channel and have subscribed. We flip ATVs as well. But our mainstay is boats, outboards, etc. We noticed a couple things that might help you with such a project. 1) Goo-gone is not ideal. We recommend full strength acetone for those pesky stickers. They come right off with acetone. 2) Marine plywood is def the way to go as the waterproofing chemicals are much better than pressure-treated. But the biggest reason to use it is that is takes resin better than other wood. You really do need to glass-in the wood with epoxy resin. Water will get underneath the floor and rot it out surprisingly quickly. We would have put 4-5 coats of glass with chop-strand fiberglass cloth for added strength. 3) You also have to change the engine oil as well as the lower unit oil. 4) You would also have to change the water pump/impeller. Those are toast in about 3 years.
Anyhow, keep producing content; we'll keep watching!
Also, if you ever want to do a collab, let us know!
Great suggestions regarding glassing in the new plywood including the bottoms and edges. From an old guy that has done from14' to 45' power and sailboats..
Thank you for the suggestions! I greatly appreciate it! I appreciate you watching the videos! Thank you!
You're doing great!. Black and Grey is pretty hot in direct sunlight. White is boring, but it hides everything and keeps you cool when fishing.
Not sure if I missed it or if it was mentioned but good insurance on a newly acquired boat is to replace the impeller in the lower unit. It's a cheap and relatively easy job as a precaution to keep from getting stranded on the water. I've been there. I know yours was originally squirting water, but not knowing the condition of it, or how long it's been in there, they can go bad in a second. Looks great and starting to come together!!
That's why it's called a boat, bust out another thousand!! People buy boats new and enjoy for years and never take a lot of time to do maintenance. Next thing you know you don't have any more time, your old, or sick so the boat just sits and is pretty much forgotten. I guess just like anything else. All it takes is two by threes or two by fours laid across the boat from bow to stern, then two or three blue tarps and several ratchet straps around the top edge, and would have been protected for years. Or take it to a marina and have it shrink wrapped, then tarp it. Just my two cents worth. It's no fun doing this. Thanks for sharing buddy!!
Joe there is a reason the foam is inside the bottom of the rails it's to keep the boat floating if it gets filled with water I would replace the foam myself but it looks great and I agree with the other comments don't paint it black light blue is better. 😊
Thank you for the suggestions! I appreciate it!
My tips for speeding up the process would be: Paint stripper and scraper would have made short work of the stickers and glue on the outside of the boat. (The way you did it looked like pretty hard!) 'Raptor' paint kit would have been good for painting inside and out (Same stuff used for bed liners in pick ups). Also wouldn't pick black for safety and a black deck can get pretty hot! A little bit of muratic acid and a scrubbing brush mounted on a mop handle might have been a better choice to clean and prep the inside of the boat for painting undercoat finishing with a pressure wash. Oh yeah, and perhaps you could have changed the impellar on the outboard as it's cheap and easy to do. Would have used marine grade ply and or would have primed and sealed the ply board to save it from rotting again straght away. Enjoying the project! Thank you!
Thank you for the suggestions! That is helpful! I am glad that you are enjoying the videos!
Should have gotten the marine board, not pressure treated. Also, stainless steel screws would have been better than zinc coated because the heads will eventually rust and pop off the heads. Lastly, no foam was replaced to help with floatation? Oh my...
It's $129 for one sheet.
pressure treated will delaminate if you get it wet....He should have let it dry in the sun for a few days, epoxy it and then glue carpet to it ..
@@2vintage I know, but you don't want to do this again do you? Pressure treated isn't meant to be consistently wet like marine board and will come apart and rot and become weak within a couple of years. Maybe sooner with the carpet retaining moisture
@@michaelschlup-c5o yeah, but with the time and money invested in epoxy, he could have made it simple and just bought the proper plywood
@@staind288 i just sent an email asking $$ and availability...
You may want to invest in an electric paint sprayer. They are relatively inexpensive and you could use it on many jobs! Love the boat content!
Thank you for the suggestions! I am glad that you are enjoying the videos!
Quick tip for removing the rivets use a 1/8th size drill bit 😊
Thank you for the suggestion! I appreciate it!
Looks awesome now mate you're doing an awesome job
I think you might have over filled the lower unit. There is a screw about halfway between the ones you have out. Ive seen a few lower units with additional vent screws. Not 100% sure on that motor but itd be worth looking into before all the gear oil push out the prop seal
Almost lost it when you were changing the lower unit oil..."Wow, must've been low"...well, you did just drain it, so...🤣🤣 Nice project boat.
Haha I pumped in a lot more than what came out
Doing the same thing right now! Got mine currently completed gutted and cleaned out. Now doing a makeover of the trailer.
looks great, the foam is for positive floatation all boats 22' and under are required to have some kind. they make a 2 part expanding foam you can pour in under the plywood it can make a mess if not done right.
You're a better mechanic than you are a carpenter Joe.
Backhanded compliment or insult?
Good enough for the average Joe 😂 see what I did there?
I agree
@@2vintage Next time you have to cut plywood place the sawhorses further apart and place some 2x's on them to lay the plywood on. Set your saw depth to a little over the thickness of the ply and it won't bind up like that.
@@livinglifeontheedge4261 he's using a battery saw with no arse. He needs a corded one for 5/8ths plywood
You have done a really good job you are a jack of all trades !Alan Northern Ireland. 👍
Looking good, I would definitely ditch the black paint though. I painted a boat black once and instantly regretted it… way to hot. Ended up repainting it with light gray which worked out nicely.
Did you use marine epoxy to seal the plywood before gluing the exterior carpet on it? I restored a Lund all alumnium fishing boat, my whole subfloor was completely rotted out where I didn't even have a template to use, I had to fabricate the templates from cardboard taped together lol. Fun project for sure. And rivet all the pieces back into the boat
It's a bit late, but eBay toffee wheel decal remover, amazing for removing glue and decals off metal or painted surfaces 👍👌
It would be a very good idea to seal that wood with some sort of paint or varnish so that it doesnt become water logged and rot away like the old stuff did. maybe too late now, but hey time will tell. keep learning Joe, your doing a good job.
Thank you for the suggestions! That is helpful!
When I redid my boat floor many years ago I used the old wood for pattern. I laid them on the new wood and traced around them. Worked like a charm. When using staples, make sure they are Stainless or they will eventually rust away due to humidity.
Thank you for the suggestions! I appreciate it!
I would recommend changing the impellor in the lower unit, The impellor pulls water up through your engine for cooling. Age hardens them, then they break.
I posted that last time. Change pump impeller and service the lower end. ( change oil,gaskets,seals). Bet he thinks it's working and the pisser is moving water so it's good. Gonna be one of those who learns when the motor seizes. Servicing that motor should be first on the list especially due to the time he knows it sat. I bet the lower end has never been done. He did the oil that's a start I guess.
transome i had same boat
If your not in a rush to get it on the water, a little project boat like that can be so much fun!! Love to see it 🤙🏼
It is fun, and quite a project! It is worth it to see the progress! Thank you for watching! I appreciate it!
You know it's amazing what a $50 air sprayer and a quart of paint with thinner will do! 😅
In the future Joe they have a wheel that goes right in a drill that takes stickers and old paint off and doesn't hurt the metal under it and kinda preps it for new paint. All you need to do is clean surfaces b4 new paint. Great job tho! I did an 18foot open bow rider by 4winns
Considering the age of the motor, I would have liked to see you replace the impeller. That being said, looking forward to seeing this finished product!
Looking great! I would polish the aluminum on the outside instead of painting black. Might be a little more work, but a buffing wheel would speed it up.
Nice job! That’s going to be a great boat. I know others have said already but you should put that extra buoyancy back under the floor, It will stop your boat from sinking completely if you get swamped.
Thank you for your kinds words! I appreciate it!
As you were power washing I was thinking Joe's making mouse poop soup again. I would o scrapped the boat and sold the motor and trailer. Good job though.
Yeah halfway through inwas thinking the same thing lol
As a boat restoration guy I can say there’s much easier way to do carpet but it’s hard to explain over text easier shown in person but not bad using that method 👌🏽next time run the carpet up the hull further it helps with sound damping. Cheers mate
Last boat i did i kept the wood floor pieces to trace outline on new wood. And i put carpet up to the top ridge of the hull. Came out awesome
Well sir I am impressed! You've done a lot of work on it by yourself in 3 days. It's really a 2 person job especially when cutting the plywood. Looks pretty good so far. At this point it's a blank canvas and you can reconfigure it if you choose. Maybe more seating. Thanks again for your time today and good luck with this project.
Thank you for your kind words! I appreciate your suggestion! Thank you for watching!
If you are planning on selling, if use a buffer and aluminum polish on the outside, before adding striping or new decals. Definitely worth the investment to do, as more appealing to a buyer.
Can't wait for the next video!! I'm looking forward to see the final product!!
Nice job so far!!! I think I like the color of the flat primer gray better than gloss black for the inside sides of the boat. Just my opinion
Love these videos you’ve inspired me to find a project fourwheeler keep the good work up
That means so much to me! Thank you! I am glad that you enjoy the videos! I hope that you find a cool project four wheeler!
I would've given the under floor area a coating of epoxy to seal any pinholes that might've been there, just to be sure.
I was thinking the same. Or that plastic decking material although $$$
Always test the boat by floating it in the water. Before putting the floor in. Let's you see where it might have any possible water comming in.
Did you put the foam back under the plywood? I wouldn't paint the exterior. If it were mine, I would polish that aluminum and put graphics, maybe clear over it. I know it's your boat, it's just what I would do. The resto is coming along nicely.
Your saw horses have notches in the top so you can slide 2x4’s into the notches and spread them out when u cut long plywood. You may know this already.
The styrofoam was there for a reason; you forgot to replace it. And the black interior is going to collect heat in the summer; it’ll feel like you’re riding in a frying pan. But your work is good. Great job
Awesome job joe..that boat is gonna be fun in the sun fishing..the time and patience u have def pays off..GREAT JOB.B safe.peace
Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video!
Did you think to save the old pieces to use as templates for the new floor
That's one mouse that did not get cold last winter. And i would still change the impeller pump since it sat and gotten brittle it might save you a tow back to shore.
Finally been waiting
You know that foam insulation that was under the floor was there for a reason you should have put it back in there even the old foam you took out would have been better than nothing helps the boat in many different ways
The foam should of been reinstalled. #1 buoyancy #2 sound dampening when walking #3 helps support wood flooring. I did a 14" boat restore yrs ago I made my mistakes and lost $$ on that project. Great vid
Turtle wax decal remover works really well for removing the adhesive glue. I had some bumper stickers on my truck bumper that were 30 years old, sprayed it down with the old turtle wax adhesive remover, bam, easy breezy lemon squeezy!!!
I would seal the sub floor. Like I do every house I build I always seal sub floor.
i would pull the floor out and pour some two part floatation foam where the styrofoam was when you gutted it. Its there for a reason and is likely necessary to stay afloat if the boat starts taking on water. You should also de-rig the moater and all of the through hull fittings when you paint so it doesn't look janky. Good luck!
In your own words. "That's rough!"
Looking much better already Joe.
How did you measure the arcs for the new floor since you didn’t save the old pieces for a template? Seems like that would have taken a while to get just right.
Man that was hard work! Labor of love. Crazy how nice that engine is!
It is a challenging project! It is rewarding to see some progress! Thank you for watching!
Aircraft stripper in a Aerisol can makes easy work with decals/ graphics that are burnt on fused on ..lol.. then hit it with the pressure washer..and done..been there done that. Restoring a boat can get expensive and quick....looking very good though 👌 UR carpet came out very nice 👌..
Tell you what, he sure does get the work done, learned a lot about working on my bike, thanks 2 vintage
For decals they make a rubber wheel for drills, they work really well at getting it all off. It does make a mess of rubber but trust me it saves time scraping.
It's a 3M products called a adhesive remover wheel..
Get yourself a rubber wheel that will get rid of glue graphics etc.....in minutes
It's just my opinion but I spent twenty years on a lake,,,,
Whatever you paint black on your boat is going to cause blisters and burns every time you touch
They sell a body eraser that you put on a drill and will take off all the decals and glue its made for automotive decals and works awesome
Am already looking forward to the first test ride on the field !!
I wouldn't deter anyone from taking on a project just because it's a lot of work. Yes, what you did was a ot of work, bit look at what you accomplished in ONLY three days! And you took your time and did a great job! 👍🏽
I encourage people to be more proactive in the things they enjoy, especially if (1) it makes them solve problems/think, and (2) it gets them out of the house.
I look forward to the results in the next video which I'm about to watch.
Remember, you make these videos to inspire people. Don't ruin that by giving a negative message at the end. Great job kid!
I know foam isn't cheap but if your boat get's a leak your gonna wish you had it. Easiest way is to have someone spray foam the bottom for ya, something to look into and think about.
My Lund I restored has like 6 inch thick foam going across most the bottom of the inner floor. Definitely agree you need the foam.
Use closed cell foam
@@bbrut3332 exactly
P.S. in some states it's also safety factor in boats and will not pass safety inspection without it.
Lookin good Joe,, great progress.. I would have to agree with comment below, black is not a great color for boats,Maybe a light gray or a version of tan Black will really suck in the heat. I am from Georgia and dont think i have ever seen a black interior on a boat..keep up the good work.Looks great so far..
I see everyone has said what i would have done. Other then that it is a learning experience and you will now on your next one. One thing is keep restoring and you will keep getting better. Do a couple and you will look back and go wow! Its all a learning process. It came out nice. I'm on my 4 rebuild and look back at my first one and see all the stuff i should have done on the other ones. Keep it up and enjoy the boat!!!
A nice tool to keep on hand for removing those decals instead of investing all the sweat equity is a Decal Remover Eraser Wheel
Several viewers have commented about omitting the foam. If you are so inclined, you could still add it by drilling a few small holes and using spray cans of expandable foam.
Awsome vid like the variety of machines you've been posting man also the easiest way I found to take off graphics is a rubber wheel
Thank you! That means so much to me! Thank you for the suggestion!
It's Content! Don't Rush through it!
I'm wondering how acetone would work on the graphics adhesive. Should be quicker, maybe?
A trick for cutting plywood spread saw horses apart. Use a sheet of plywood as a table. Then use foam board or 2x4's to block the sheet yor cutting. This will stop the wood binding up the blade. Check your depth on saw
tilt boat when washing would help. Cover engine with trash bag. Save plywood for templates. 2" XPS foam from Lowes. Save SS screws.
i tell ya what,,,for a man that uses a carpenters hammer for automotive applications, a screw driver as a punch,,dropping the transmission fluid hand pump onto the dirt ,cutting curves with a circular hand saw ---I LOVE YOUR WORK!!!! :) ,,great channel ,,very inspiring ,,best wishes from australia
Nice work brotha. Laquor thinner for the decal adhesive
Great to see how many supporters you have. We all love your channel know matter what the build is. Very awesome. My smoker craft pro lodge is all black and looks awesome, yours will too.
Thank you for your kind words! That means so much! I am glad that you enjoy the channel! I appreciate it!
If you would have found pitting corrosion under the floors how would you have treated it before paint?
Might have been wise to seal ALL hull seams. You did say that water was draining out.
Goof Off might be better for adhesive
Black is hot.
You left a poor plywood edge on port side forward....does not conform...will rub and create a bulge in the aluminum.
Good start, and hard work. Might be wise to work with experienced folks on the hull part of the job
Marine grade ply, better fasteners. Rust will get you.
Hope you can still run your electrics now the carpet is glued.
Have fun and enjoy your boat. Hope this all helps. Cheers. 🤔😀
Your patients is your strength. Very tedious work. Enjoy your videos very much.
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I’m loving this project. She’s really coming along brother. Keep up the great work
Thank you so much! I appreciate it! I am glad that you are enjoying the videos!
i ENVY YOU BECAUSE YOU ARE ALWAYS DOING A WONDERFUL JOB AND i CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE CONCLUSION OF THE BOAT. GOD BLESS
What a project! Very nice work. 🎉
Enjoying this project! Keep the great content coming 👌👌
Thank you for watching! I am glad that you are enjoying the videos!
3M woodgrain and stripe remover makes taking the vinyl stripes super easy and the adhesive remover means you don't have to sand it. About 50 bucks for both.
You might want to try a "Decal Remover Eraser Wheel" in your drill to remove the stickers and the adhesive. Available many places on the internet, they work....good luck.
So no floatation under the floor? mistake in my opinion unless I missed that step.
Right, he didn't put the foam back 🫨
Great job, Keep pushing your boundaries, make it your own.
Black is a bad choice. In the sun you want to reflect light and heat. That will absorb heat. Get unbearably hot. Gotta put the foam in. On the water its gonna feel like your in a frying pan. Should have used marine plywood to.
Nice job. That boat should provide years of fun out on the lake. You’ll only have a couple thousand into it and the satisfaction that you rebuilt the whole thing yourself.
Awesome build, coming along great. Can't wait to see it on the water.
Thank you so much! Hopefully it will be finished soon!
A tip for cutting plywood in half. Use sacroficial 2x4s between the saw horses set the depth of your cut just enough to get through the wood. Now you dont have to worry about the offcuts collapsing your horses and falling on the ground. The horses you have already have notches in them to hold the 2x4s.