Thank you for giving these master craftsman the spotlight they deserve. We cannot allow them to disappear as we devolve into the apathy of instant gratification culture. The greatness of humanity is contained in traditions, such as John Lobb. Its vital to share them, the first step to appreciation... and you are leading the way, Kirby. Cheers!
I appreciate your kind words and share your sentiment about preserving craftsmanship and tradition. Recognizing the value of artisans like John Lobb is indeed important, and I'm glad to contribute to fostering that appreciation. Thank you for your support! Cheers!
Rolls Royce did disappear. RR car making (as the finest car in the world, made in England on a no expense spared basis) finally disappeared at a deal on a golf course 20 years ago. BMW was given a license to use the Rolls Royce name and Radiator Grille, which are the property of Rolls Royce PLC who still make Jet engines in England. THAT Rolls Royce is still with us. The car division was lost though apathy, disregard for the stipulation that RR will always remain an English company, and a set of circumstances, whose seed was planted in 1971 when the car division was separated from the rest of Rolls Royce due to the bankruptcy over the underestimation of the development cost for the RB211 engine for the 747 aeroplane.. The car division of Rolls Royce Ltd. had always profitable, and that is why it separated when the bankruptcy happened, in order to save the car division from bankruptcy. This car division, still owned by the parent RR company. But then they sold the car division and it's factory in Crewe UK to Vickers, and gave Vickers the license to make RR and B cars and use the trademarks (but stipulated that the company MUST ALWAYS BE BRITISH OWNED AND THE TRADEMARKS MUST NEVER BE ALLOWED TO BE USED BY ANY NON BRITISH COMPANY). Vickers then sold to VW, who made RR cars in UK for 3 years. Then a deal was made which sold the license to use the RR name and grille to BMW, so they could start their own company called Rolls Royce. The engines and parts are prefabricated in Germany and then assembled in england at an assembly plant. They are German cars now. The RR dealers won't even service my real English RR, only the ones BMW makes. The whole concept upon which the brand was founded, was destroyed. That concept was that you could buy a RR and it would last 50 years or more and they would service it and provide parts. They just cut off that tradition and quality cold turkey. Sorry. @@Danutzz2010
My Grandfather and his brother made shoes in New Zealand for the New Zealand and Australian markets and dominated the Australaison shoes market in the 40''s, 50's, 60's, 70:s, 80's Italian/Croatian immigrants and my Grandfather in the 70's always use to tell me, the greatest shoe maker in the world was John Lobb and I say why? And he said "their last is their secret".....he use to travel to London, Paris, Milano, Naples especially during 60's, 70's and visited Lobb many times and made close friends, I still have a pair of John Lobb shoes from the 60's bespoke for my Grandfather.......an beautiful video that gives me goosebumps, many thanks❤
Kirby, this video is absolutely fascinating. To see the Lobb craftsmanship process from start to finish is so captivating. The lathes which are still being used today, just think how many famous and important people have had their lasts made over the years!!! Thank you!
Greetings from Toronto. Thank you Kirby for what appears to be the beginning of an informative series. I had never seen the process of how a bespoke shoe is made. Looking forward to the future installments.
Indeed! This is the beginning of what will be, up to now, our most complete examination of how a bespoke shoe is created! Massive project, so please support our work by joining Patreon.com/kirbyallison
A rare pleasure to be taken though the lasting process by one of the top fellows in the craft. A recording of a piece of social history if ever there was one.... I believe this recording might be seen as important beyond a bunch of guys who enjoy nice clothes. Well done indeed.
Loving these episodes Kirby. Hope all is well with you and your family. These craftsmen and women deserve to have their talents showcased and you do it brilliantly!
Dear Kirby, This in my opinion is one of best videos you have produced, it contains an in depth look at the craft of last making it gives a real appreciation and understanding the hours involved and of course the cost. You summed it with your comment - it's a steal !!!!!!
I'm not a rich man. Whenever I visit London I walk past John Lobb after accessing from the alley at the back St James' Place and I look in the window of this shop, always looking in amazement at the quality of stitching of the shoes in the window, the victorian decour and the obscure and antiquated hunting boots and I always want to see what goes on inside. This is probably the most comprehensive video on RUclips of what it takes to make arguably the best lasts in the world and for that I thank you Kirby. Cheers!
The same goes for me too. I’m just a huge fan of craftsmanship and the tradition behind classic menswear and handmade leather shoes, especially oxfords.
I did not, in my wildest dreams, think that there is so much effort that goes into making a proper pair of bespoke shoes. Thank you for sharing. I now have a different level of respect for these artisans.
This is absolutely incredible!! I must get over there to visit John Lobb. Most definitely on my bucket list. I started off 3 years ago painting sneakers. 2 years ago, i learned how to build sneakers. And now, I believe i have landed on the craft that i want to spend my life learning. Bespoke shoemaking is one of the most satisfying crafts i have ever witnessed and been a part of. I cant wait to get started on my 1st shell cordovan boot. Coming soon!!
just wanted to say what an amazing job documenting this craft. its very evident in your videos that you have a huge appreciation and love for all things hand made. i look forward to more in this series and many others
Thank you for noticing! This is indeed a crazy passion for me! Our obsession for documenting these stories in the highest-possible quality defies business rational. Please support our work by shopping online at KirbyAllison.com!
I love the “old English” style and way of life. I’ve always thought I should have been born in England 100 years ago. Guess that’s why I love James Bond 😂.
Oh yeah, I can absolutely see myself in that statement I guess one of my biggest dreams would be to somday be able to live in an. Old, Manor Somewhere in Great Britain with a 1960 Rolls-Royce, and a great old library
@@kirbyallison I really want everyone to do or to consume whatever he likes. I’m completely fine with other people, smoking cigars but I personally couldn’t imagine myself, just because I would be scared about the consequences. This consume might have on my lungs and my general body health.
Great Britain has taken a pummelling in the recent years but there are no craftsmen and woman like those in this Great Island of ours. British style in THE best look and we should be very proud of these skilled traditions
Thank you for this video. What an amazing experience watching it. I was fortunate many years ago just to walk into the infamous st James John Lobb shop just to have a look. I was stunned when I was given an impromptu tour. It was an incredible experience. I hope one day to have a pair of shoes made for me by these master craftsman
I hope Kirby takes this as a compliment. Mr. Roger taught a generation to be good neighbors. Kirby is reteaching the art of being a Gentleman and doing with grace kindness and respect. Just like Mr. Rogers
Hello Sir, an informative video as always. Please would you be good enough to do another video with Max Foulkes or other persons paying a visit to vintage shops in London. I enjoyed your visit to Hornets and offers a different way of doing things whilst maintaining tradition.
Church's and Barkers are two of the remaining Shoe makers from Northamptonshire...This small midlands town was the centre of the bespoke boot and shoe manufacturing in the world.
Kirby I so enjoy your quest for for the absolute in quality and craftsmanship. I share the same quest. The best knits I have found over many years are from John Smedley, England. You might check them out. JD
@@kirbyallison thank you. The only problem is now I can’t go back to my other shoes. I’ve wanted a pair since I can remember, sometime in the 80’s I saw them in the Robb Report. I finally bought a pair. More to come. I went to the store last year after watching one of your videos and the rest is history. The lasts are there and I’m ready. Thank you for all of your videos Eric 😃
@@scuba453 I paid just over £9.000 for Norwegian slippers with crocodile lakes on the tops and trees. The crocodile was a extra £2.000. The prices were listed on their site until recently. At the end of the day the number really doesn’t matter. They are that good.
@@kirbyallisonI went to the shop today and ordered another pair. This time I went for a basic calf skin Norwegian slipper £5260 and £1014 the trees before VAT. Today is 12 Sept 2023. This VAT thing is the only irritating part of the process.
Dear Kirby ! I’m so sorry to correct you but the best shoe maker in the world is from Austria. Since 1816, and for seven generations, the family Scheer has been making bespoke shoes by hand in Vienna. In the heart of the city centre, Markus Scheer and his team preserve and develop the craft of bespoke shoemaking in its primal form. As former purveyors to the Imperial and Royal Court of Austria-Hungary and holder of the Imperial and Royal Warrant of Appointment. Seven generations have gathered this wealth of know-how with great passion and pioneering spirit, handing it down from one generation to the next. Fewer than 300 pairs of bespoke shoes for men and women leave the historic premises each year. greats
There is a 92 years old man in Vietnam still making shoes for 70 years. His name is Trịnh Ngọc. If you love shoes, you should know about this man! He won’t let you down!
Well, As a joiner/furniture maker, I'm amazed as well, especially with the guy on the bandsaw and pillar drill! All it took was for that blade to snap or drill bit to break and anything could happen. it's still no less interesting though :-)
Well when its working and you have no company to do a new machine, why scrap it? It works perfectly fine, and with a good mental health and understanding, you can use those machines. Even the gentleman didn't follow 100% the safety rules....
I am wondering with these modern times, a 3 D scan of the foot can be taken, using a customised dedicated software and 3D print the lasts, so that bespoke shoes can be produced faster and cheaper.
works too. i guess they do it in mass production. and some very skilled lastmakers do it too. still they are craftspeople who learned to do it by hand and do bespoke work by hand. By that you develop a very good feeling and experience! some use this and create lasts digitally... but off course traditional craft is about soul and beauty not about efficiency and sales. and i say this as a bootmaker, not a posh rich guy^^
A perspective from England. This country has oh so many faults and has, I think, lost its way thanks to the selfish ambitions of politicians. Many over here do have trouble recognising and accepting that the Empire has long gone, we are no longer a super power but a country of 60 million on an island perched on the edge of a continent. To our credit, our long history has left us several invaluable legacies. Some are tangible, such as historic buildings and traditional trades whilst others are intangible such as courtesy and patience; although these two virtues seem to be disappearing. In my experience, countries which share the same language can be inclined to think that the cultures are the same. That’s not my experience. The way in which KA presents these series is clearly how he feels comfortable and suits his target audiences. The British, or English, way is different and the conversation between KA does highlight the different approaches. As an Englishman, I am more attuned to Mr Lobb but I’m sure that slightly reserved form of character is not to the liking of many more extroverted cultures. The preservation of old traditions, of old trades, of old buildings is important in that it should give us a footing into our past. However, it would be naive to believe that majority of the English population are avid visitors to country houses or keen monarchists or, indeed, buy bespoke clothing and footwear. Many don’t see the value in those things whilst many can’t afford the luxuries of those things. Now semi-retired, I did buy my suits made-to-measure (not bespoke) because I felt that this balance of cost and benefit was right for me. I have never had a pair of Lobbs but I did buy high quality ready-made shoes which, at times, stretched my budgets. It is a testament to the quality of those items that, some 30 years later, those shoes are still performing well and will outlast me. If traditions are to endure, they must be relevant to people; no need for it to be the majority but it needs to be a minority who can sustain that tradition. I suspect that firms like Lobb have a future whilst so many trades have disappeared because of changing times and customs.
Good afternoon Mr. Allison, I had a quick question for you that you may or may not have an answer for. If I was to go to Davidoff of London how much would i be looking at for one of those extremely exquisite 30+ year aged davidoff #2's? If they are even available to the average person. Thank you for your time,
They're currently in the works! Let's just say the commission was a little too short of notice to be completed by May 2023! But I do plan to take delivery!
I always respect Kirby's passion for always dressing well, but why the need to bring an umbrella when it's clearly not going to rain? It seems maybe a bit extra?
Haha. If you haven't spent significant time in London, it can seem ridiculous. But there have been too many beautiful, sunny mornings I left without an umbrella where it rained that I soon learned why an umbrella is considered an essential accessory for any gentleman in London.
Why can’t make the last in a 3D printer? Time to modernise what should be modernised, ie without loosing the handcraft. Making a last wearing a tie ?!! Interesting…
Great watch - I have been inside this premise a couple of times - alas, only to purchase shoe cream as I can barely afford John lobb ready made shoes! One question I’d have is, could modern technology made traditional last making redundant? Couldn’t you get a more accurate shoe and quicker process by using some sort of 3D imaging? I know it’s not the same experience but could it be done?
I don't understand why they use a wooden block for making a copy of the foot. Taking a cast from client's foot directly would be more accurate and quicker. That's how my custom orthotics were made. I was given the casts of both my feet for future reference.
From a practical perspective there are pros and cons for both methods. Firstly using a cast is not necessarily less work, quicker or more accurate. I'd say this depends to a very large extend on the preference and experience of the craftsperson. Once you've created the positive form from your mould you still have to build up and take away a lot of material and change the volume in different places to achieve a funcional shape to build a well fitting shoe on. The last is way more than just a simple copy of your foot! Then you have to make another cast, using the material for the final last and copy the shape you've created. And all that for both feet individually. So a lot of mould building, pouring casts with different synthetics and pretty dirty work there. For me this whole process takes away some of that simple, focused woodworking flow that enables you to feel the material and create dynamic shapes. Pros are that plastic won't change its shape over time, won't rot(which is also a bit of a con, i guess) and perhaps for beginners it can be an easier way to build adequate bespoke lasts and understand the anatomy of the foot. Making lasts for orthopaedic footwear is way more complex than 'standart' last making and you follow very different guidelines. So there it makes quite a difference too.
I think one of the most common misperceptions of bespoke shoemaking is that it is a SCIENCE and not an ART. It is true that a casting or 3D scan would be a more accurate representation of the foot. But that being “better” is predicated on the assumption that the last maker is attempting to create a last that is an exact facsimile of the foot, as well. And this just isn’t the case. The goal of the lastmaker isn’t to make foot-shaped shoes but to create beautiful, sculpted shoes that fit the feet as comfortably as possible. This is where the technical and artistic skill of a lastmaker show through. Where the human eye and artistic intuition still trump that of a computer or formula. And, most importantly, it is where experience matters. What I find most fascinating about this craft is how these two goals - (1) creating a beautiful pair of shoes and (2) creating a well-fitting pair of shoes - are at conflict with one another. In many ways, they compete against each other, with the lastmaker serving as the final arbiter. This is where the incredible beauty of the bespoke craft exists. That, ultimately, the product is the manifestation of an artist’s negotiation of these competing dynamics. And the fact that obsession is all over a pair of shoes, in many ways, makes it all the more magnificent.
works too. it's not lobbs style is what i caught from the video. but some very skilled lastmakers do it. still they are craftspeople and learned to do it by hand. By that you develop a very good feeling and experience! Also if you want to learn bootmaking as a beginner a block of wood and 2 or 3 rasps are a lot cheaper, more handy AND more stylish than all the gear you'd need for 3D print... maybe it can be done fully automatic, who knows... but off course traditional craft is about soul and beauty not about efficiency and sales. and i say this as a bootmaker, not a posh rich guy^^
NOT, repeat NOT, to be confused with John Lobb ready to wear shoes. They are just mass produced factory made shoes; over priced rubbish owned by the fashion clothing retailers Hermes in Paris.
YES! This has been filmed with the ORIGINAL John Lobb. Many do not realize that "John Lobb" (aka. johnlobb.com) is owned by Hermes. In the late 1980's they bought the rights to Lobb's French workshop, which apparently included a (deceptively) favorable licensing agreement for RTW. John Lobb - the John Lobb run by the original family - is located at No. 9 St. James's Street in London. There, the fifth generation of family members - Jonathan, William, and Nicholas - quietly go about carrying on their family's rich tradition of making some of the best bespoke shoes in the world! It has been a tremendous honor to have been allowed to document the complete construction of a pair of bespoke shoes from, arguably, the world's most famous and prestigious bespoke shoemaker has been, to say the least, a tremendous honor!
Why not make a silicone mould of the foot, that’s got to be more accurate than a chap, however skilled making an accurate representation of your foot from a block of wood
From a practical perspective there are pros and cons for both methods. Firstly using a cast is not necessarily less work, quicker or more accurate. I'd say this depends to a very large extend on the preference and experience of the craftsperson. Once you've created the positive form from your mould you still have to build up and take away a lot of material and change the volume in different places to achieve a funcional shape to build a well fitting shoe on. The last is way more than just a simple copy of your foot! Then you have to make another cast, using the material for the final last and copy the shape you've created. And all that for both feet individually. So a lot of mould building, pouring casts with different synthetics and pretty dirty work there. For me this whole process takes away some of that simple, focused woodworking flow that enables you to feel the material and create dynamic shapes. Pros are that plastic won't change its shape over time, won't rot(which is also a bit of a con, i guess) and perhaps for beginners it can be an easier way to build adequate bespoke lasts and understand the anatomy of the foot. Making lasts for orthopaedic footwear is way more complex than 'standart' last making and you follow very different guidelines. So there it makes quite a difference too.
Honestly john lobb london pales in quality against the best modern shoemakers like templeman, daniel wegan or the japanese… they only have the history and insane prices whithout the product
By commissioning a bespoke pair of shoes, one is supporting the living wages of actual people. The alternative is a cheap pair of shoes made at a sweatshop somewhere in India. It's a privilege enjoyed by few, but make no mistake, there is more social integrity in a pair of bespoke shoes than those worn by 99% of people. By focusing on the cost of these items, one completely overlooks what makes them incredible: the humanity. Shoes, made for someone, by real people. Yes, they are expensive, but that is because real wages are paid to real people. The alternative is an expensive pair of "fashion" shoes, where 99% of the value is taken as profits by large multi-national corporations. A place like John Lobb is still run by the family - now in it's fifth generation. Not only can they be found at No. 9 St. James's most days, but the money that a pair of shoes costs no only supports their families, but the families of countless other artisans who have dedicated their lives to craft.
@@kirbyallison let us also not forget the middle ways. in a lot of countrys you can also find footwear(especially boots) that is localy handmade with quality materials and so on, but in a way lower price range about 500-1000$. Often that is due to larger workshops, with more craftspeople working there, a range of standart lasts and designs and minus the perfection, attention to detail and the custom fit and design...
Why not make a silicone mould of the foot, that’s got to be more accurate than a chap, however skilled making an accurate representation of your foot from a block of wood
Thank you for giving these master craftsman the spotlight they deserve. We cannot allow them to disappear as we devolve into the apathy of instant gratification culture. The greatness of humanity is contained in traditions, such as John Lobb. Its vital to share them, the first step to appreciation... and you are leading the way, Kirby. Cheers!
I appreciate your kind words and share your sentiment about preserving craftsmanship and tradition. Recognizing the value of artisans like John Lobb is indeed important, and I'm glad to contribute to fostering that appreciation. Thank you for your support! Cheers!
@@kirbyallisonУспехов Вам❤
Saying John Lobb will disappear is like saying Rolls Royce will disappear.
Rolls Royce did disappear. RR car making (as the finest car in the world, made in England on a no expense spared basis) finally disappeared at a deal on a golf course 20 years ago. BMW was given a license to use the Rolls Royce name and Radiator Grille, which are the property of Rolls Royce PLC who still make Jet engines in England. THAT Rolls Royce is still with us. The car division was lost though apathy, disregard for the stipulation that RR will always remain an English company, and a set of circumstances, whose seed was planted in 1971 when the car division was separated from the rest of Rolls Royce due to the bankruptcy over the underestimation of the development cost for the RB211 engine for the 747 aeroplane.. The car division of Rolls Royce Ltd. had always profitable, and that is why it separated when the bankruptcy happened, in order to save the car division from bankruptcy. This car division, still owned by the parent RR company. But then they sold the car division and it's factory in Crewe UK to Vickers, and gave Vickers the license to make RR and B cars and use the trademarks (but stipulated that the company MUST ALWAYS BE BRITISH OWNED AND THE TRADEMARKS MUST NEVER BE ALLOWED TO BE USED BY ANY NON BRITISH COMPANY). Vickers then sold to VW, who made RR cars in UK for 3 years. Then a deal was made which sold the license to use the RR name and grille to BMW, so they could start their own company called Rolls Royce. The engines and parts are prefabricated in Germany and then assembled in england at an assembly plant. They are German cars now. The RR dealers won't even service my real English RR, only the ones BMW makes. The whole concept upon which the brand was founded, was destroyed. That concept was that you could buy a RR and it would last 50 years or more and they would service it and provide parts. They just cut off that tradition and quality cold turkey. Sorry. @@Danutzz2010
John Lobb: The Patek Philippe of bespoke shoe making. Tradition, passion and a family business. Great work, once again, Kirby.
So who is the Timex of shoe making? That's about all I can afford 😆
@@fredWaxBeans11111 crocs
@@TL.... 🤣🤣
My Grandfather and his brother made shoes in New Zealand for the New Zealand and Australian markets and dominated the Australaison shoes market in the 40''s, 50's, 60's, 70:s, 80's Italian/Croatian immigrants and my Grandfather in the 70's always use to tell me, the greatest shoe maker in the world was John Lobb and I say why? And he said "their last is their secret".....he use to travel to London, Paris, Milano, Naples especially during 60's, 70's and visited Lobb many times and made close friends, I still have a pair of John Lobb shoes from the 60's bespoke for my Grandfather.......an beautiful video that gives me goosebumps, many thanks❤
Amazing! If you ever get around to posting photographs on Instagram, please tag me or forward them!
Kiwi here who loves shoes!
Congratulation Kirby on adding your name and fit to the John Lobb house. I can't wait to see the final product.
Always enjoy these types of series, thank you Kirby!
My pleasure! Thank you for watching! Make sure you like, subscribe, and SHARE!!
Kirby, this video is absolutely fascinating. To see the Lobb craftsmanship process from start to finish is so captivating. The lathes which are still being used today, just think how many famous and important people have had their lasts made over the years!!! Thank you!
Just wait! The series is only going to get better!
If Kirby keeps this up, he is going to wind up with an OBE. 😊
Greetings from Toronto. Thank you Kirby for what appears to be the beginning of an informative series. I had never seen the process of how a bespoke shoe is made. Looking forward to the future installments.
Indeed! This is the beginning of what will be, up to now, our most complete examination of how a bespoke shoe is created! Massive project, so please support our work by joining Patreon.com/kirbyallison
Fascinating to see what goes into making a pair of bespoke shoes and the tradition attached to the trades.
A rare pleasure to be taken though the lasting process by one of the top fellows in the craft. A recording of a piece of social history if ever there was one.... I believe this recording might be seen as important beyond a bunch of guys who enjoy nice clothes. Well done indeed.
Loving these episodes Kirby. Hope all is well with you and your family. These craftsmen and women deserve to have their talents showcased and you do it brilliantly!
These videos are exposing me to local things I’d never otherwise know about! Turns out those rough lasts are made just 11 miles up the road!
Amazing!
Very interesting. The folks at Lobb are naturals at explaining their creative processes.
They sure are! They have literally grown up amongst the craft!
Just beautiful homage to the craft. Thank you!
More to come! We are just getting started!!
Dear Kirby, This in my opinion is one of best videos you have produced, it contains an in depth look at the craft of last making it gives a real appreciation and understanding the hours involved and of course the cost. You summed it with your comment - it's a steal !!!!!!
I'm not a rich man. Whenever I visit London I walk past John Lobb after accessing from the alley at the back St James' Place and I look in the window of this shop, always looking in amazement at the quality of stitching of the shoes in the window, the victorian decour and the obscure and antiquated hunting boots and I always want to see what goes on inside. This is probably the most comprehensive video on RUclips of what it takes to make arguably the best lasts in the world and for that I thank you Kirby. Cheers!
A commitment to appreciate the final piece; in its all glory, fit and aesthetic presence.
I had a pair of bespoke boots made once, but I think bespoke dress shoes are a future goal for me.
The same goes for me too. I’m just a huge fan of craftsmanship and the tradition behind classic menswear and handmade leather shoes, especially oxfords.
I did not, in my wildest dreams, think that there is so much effort that goes into making a proper pair of bespoke shoes. Thank you for sharing. I now have a different level of respect for these artisans.
And you've only seen 1/5th of the overall process! Just wait for our other episodes!
@@kirbyallison genuinely looking forward to it. So much there to see and learn.
come such a long way since your measuring video a few years ago, such an improvement all around within your videos Kirby!!!
Ha. Yeah. No more shaky tripods. Haha. Thanks!
This is absolutely incredible!! I must get over there to visit John Lobb. Most definitely on my bucket list. I started off 3 years ago painting sneakers. 2 years ago, i learned how to build sneakers. And now, I believe i have landed on the craft that i want to spend my life learning. Bespoke shoemaking is one of the most satisfying crafts i have ever witnessed and been a part of. I cant wait to get started on my 1st shell cordovan boot. Coming soon!!
Я очень хотел бы научиться пошиву обуви, но я далеко от вас, к сожалению.
@@user-vz8xg1nw1i I'm sorry but I'm unable to translate your comment.
This was such a beatiful video, great hard work. I truly lack the words to present what I admire in this production. Thank you so, so much.
Wow, thank you!
Magnificent video.... Big congratulación!!!! How I word like to photograh some momento of this process.. Thanks Kirby for sharing your Job.
I must say you constantly outdo yourself - here was I thinking your Suit to Shoot series would be your Magnum Opus and then this series begins!
Continuous improvement !
An absolutely incredible story. Thank you very much, Mr Allison!
Kirby my man! My hero
just wanted to say what an amazing job documenting this craft. its very evident in your videos that you have a huge appreciation and love for all things hand made.
i look forward to more in this series and many others
Thank you for noticing! This is indeed a crazy passion for me! Our obsession for documenting these stories in the highest-possible quality defies business rational. Please support our work by shopping online at KirbyAllison.com!
Thank you for the great video. from South Korea 🇰🇷
Another excellent video Kirby. Beautifully produced
Thank you!
Another absolutely top notch video!
Thank you, Professor!
I love it when Kirby has got a Lobb on…
I love the “old English” style and way of life. I’ve always thought I should have been born in England 100 years ago. Guess that’s why I love James Bond 😂.
Oh yeah, I can absolutely see myself in that statement
I guess one of my biggest dreams would be to somday be able to live in an. Old, Manor Somewhere in Great Britain with a 1960 Rolls-Royce, and a great old library
Don’t forget the cigars!
@@kirbyallison I really want everyone to do or to consume whatever he likes. I’m completely fine with other people, smoking cigars but I personally couldn’t imagine myself, just because I would be scared about the consequences. This consume might have on my lungs and my general body health.
I cant’ believe that craftsman at Peen’s making the rough last still has all his fingers!
That’s because you’ve omitted the word ‘Skilled’ 😉
Yet another top notch production, Kirby!
Winderful video for wonderful shoes
What a tour de force video
Great Britain has taken a pummelling in the recent years but there are no craftsmen and woman like those in this Great Island of ours. British style in THE best look and we should be very proud of these skilled traditions
Clzxx. Great job Kirby..whst an honor
Thank you for this video. What an amazing experience watching it. I was fortunate many years ago just to walk into the infamous st James John Lobb shop just to have a look. I was stunned when I was given an impromptu tour. It was an incredible experience. I hope one day to have a pair of shoes made for me by these master craftsman
Amazing! I find it so encouraging that these historic houses are so welcoming of interested people who walk in just to have a look!
The quality of this video is getting to the, "I think I watched it on television" stage. Impressive production.
Thank you! Hats off to our editors on their hard work!
I hope Kirby takes this as a compliment. Mr. Roger taught a generation to be good neighbors. Kirby is reteaching the art of being a Gentleman and doing with grace kindness and respect.
Just like Mr. Rogers
John Lobb! Finally. Thank you sir.
More to come! Let’s just say that we have taken a deep, deep dive!
Hello Sir, an informative video as always. Please would you be good enough to do another video with Max Foulkes or other persons paying a visit to vintage shops in London. I enjoyed your visit to Hornets and offers a different way of doing things whilst maintaining tradition.
Plus visits to Drake's of London and Anglo Italian please
Thanks
Church's and Barkers are two of the remaining Shoe makers from Northamptonshire...This small midlands town was the centre of the bespoke boot and shoe manufacturing in the world.
Excellent Kirby.. 💪🏼❤️
Forgive my crude language but that was fucking brilliant. What an insight! What a character!
Reportage exceptionnel. De plus je viens de découvrir le traducteur automatique, que du bonheur.
What a superb video. Thank you. Looking forward to the next installment
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Really enjoy these videos, super interesting seeing the full process as it goes along.
Glad you enjoy it! More to come! We have everything up through the fitting filmed!
Kirby I so enjoy your quest for for the absolute in quality and craftsmanship. I share the same quest. The best knits I have found over many years are from John Smedley, England. You might check them out. JD
Can you also do a video on the John Lobb Paris bespoke process?
I want a pair
Lovely video - when will we see a follow-up?
I got my first pair this year. Wow😍
Congratulations! You’re now part of history!
@@kirbyallison thank you. The only problem is now I can’t go back to my other shoes. I’ve wanted a pair since I can remember, sometime in the 80’s I saw them in the Robb Report.
I finally bought a pair. More to come. I went to the store last year after watching one of your videos and the rest is history. The lasts are there and I’m ready.
Thank you for all of your videos
Eric 😃
May I ask how much they charge for a pair?
@@scuba453 I paid just over £9.000 for Norwegian slippers with crocodile lakes on the tops and trees. The crocodile was a extra £2.000.
The prices were listed on their site until recently. At the end of the day the number really doesn’t matter. They are that good.
@@kirbyallisonI went to the shop today and ordered another pair. This time I went for a basic calf skin Norwegian slipper £5260 and £1014 the trees before VAT. Today is 12 Sept 2023.
This VAT thing is the only irritating part of the process.
Dear Kirby ! I’m so sorry to correct you but the best shoe maker in the world is from Austria.
Since 1816, and for seven generations, the family Scheer has been making bespoke shoes by hand in Vienna. In the heart of the city centre, Markus Scheer and his team preserve and develop the craft of bespoke shoemaking in its primal form. As former purveyors to the Imperial and Royal Court of Austria-Hungary and holder of the Imperial and Royal Warrant of Appointment. Seven generations have gathered this wealth of know-how with great passion and pioneering spirit, handing it down from one generation to the next. Fewer than 300 pairs of bespoke shoes for men and women leave the historic premises each year. greats
Thank you! One day I’d love to visit Austria!
Better than British made!!!?? Is that possible!!??? ;)
I'm sure you'll find one of the best shoe makers somewhere in Italy, after all they are worldly known for good shoes...
There is a 92 years old man in Vietnam still making shoes for 70 years. His name is Trịnh Ngọc. If you love shoes, you should know about this man! He won’t let you down!
I’m amazed how some of those machines in the workshop get passed health and safety 🤦♂️
Well, As a joiner/furniture maker, I'm amazed as well, especially with the guy on the bandsaw and pillar drill! All it took was for that blade to snap or drill bit to break and anything could happen. it's still no less interesting though :-)
Well when its working and you have no company to do a new machine, why scrap it? It works perfectly fine, and with a good mental health and understanding, you can use those machines. Even the gentleman didn't follow 100% the safety rules....
In Lobb’s defense, there may have been a few exceptions made for the sake of clean footage…
Kirby, will you please show us the final shoes when they're finished?
Of course!
Where’s the final shoe? I’m confused
I am wondering with these modern times, a 3 D scan of the foot can be taken, using a customised dedicated software and 3D print the lasts, so that bespoke shoes can be produced faster and cheaper.
Больших больших больших успехов вам.
I have no doubt that Kirby’s J.L. Shoes will be extremely well cared for…
Haha. This you can count on.
❤🇬🇧 from🇯🇵
Jolly good show, Guv'nor.
the tom scott of the bespoke world!
someone needs to create a Wikipedia page for me!
hey kirby. what was the background song when your foot was being measured? thanks
Interesting to see if this changes to 3D printing
works too. i guess they do it in mass production. and some very skilled lastmakers do it too. still they are craftspeople who learned to do it by hand and do bespoke work by hand. By that you develop a very good feeling and experience! some use this and create lasts digitally... but off course traditional craft is about soul and beauty not about efficiency and sales. and i say this as a bootmaker, not a posh rich guy^^
A perspective from England. This country has oh so many faults and has, I think, lost its way thanks to the selfish ambitions of politicians. Many over here do have trouble recognising and accepting that the Empire has long gone, we are no longer a super power but a country of 60 million on an island perched on the edge of a continent.
To our credit, our long history has left us several invaluable legacies. Some are tangible, such as historic buildings and traditional trades whilst others are intangible such as courtesy and patience; although these two virtues seem to be disappearing.
In my experience, countries which share the same language can be inclined to think that the cultures are the same. That’s not my experience. The way in which KA presents these series is clearly how he feels comfortable and suits his target audiences. The British, or English, way is different and the conversation between KA does highlight the different approaches. As an Englishman, I am more attuned to Mr Lobb but I’m sure that slightly reserved form of character is not to the liking of many more extroverted cultures.
The preservation of old traditions, of old trades, of old buildings is important in that it should give us a footing into our past. However, it would be naive to believe that majority of the English population are avid visitors to country houses or keen monarchists or, indeed, buy bespoke clothing and footwear. Many don’t see the value in those things whilst many can’t afford the luxuries of those things.
Now semi-retired, I did buy my suits made-to-measure (not bespoke) because I felt that this balance of cost and benefit was right for me. I have never had a pair of Lobbs but I did buy high quality ready-made shoes which, at times, stretched my budgets. It is a testament to the quality of those items that, some 30 years later, those shoes are still performing well and will outlast me.
If traditions are to endure, they must be relevant to people; no need for it to be the majority but it needs to be a minority who can sustain that tradition. I suspect that firms like Lobb have a future whilst so many trades have disappeared because of changing times and customs.
Insightful comment! Thank you for sharing. Our cultures are indeed very different, despite the shared language.
Couldn’t you get lasts now with a Lidar and 3D printers?
Of the tools used to make a shoe, I would not have expected a chainsaw to be on the list.
Haha. You and me both...
A bit of paint on shop door wouldn't hurt given how much these cost..
Iam beginning to think me Grandpa made shoes looking back he seems to have had all the tools
Good afternoon Mr. Allison,
I had a quick question for you that you may or may not have an answer for. If I was to go to Davidoff of London how much would i be looking at for one of those extremely exquisite 30+ year aged davidoff #2's? If they are even available to the average person.
Thank you for your time,
Also what would the cost of a pair of John lobb bespoke shoes run for a simple commission nothing fancy.
No idea about Davidoff’s pricing. He would refer you to them.
@@michaelJohnson_92around £7k upwards I think
Are these the opera pumps you commissioned earlier or something else?
They're currently in the works! Let's just say the commission was a little too short of notice to be completed by May 2023! But I do plan to take delivery!
@@kirbyallison I'm looking forward to it!
🥃🎩
I always respect Kirby's passion for always dressing well, but why the need to bring an umbrella when it's clearly not going to rain? It seems maybe a bit extra?
Always a good idea in London. Rain happens very unexpectedly here.
Haha. If you haven't spent significant time in London, it can seem ridiculous. But there have been too many beautiful, sunny mornings I left without an umbrella where it rained that I soon learned why an umbrella is considered an essential accessory for any gentleman in London.
🥳🎉🎂
Alternative title: Can a pair of 6 grand shoes help Kirby walk like a normal human? 😉🤪
Let's find out!
@@kirbyallison 👏🏼🥰 #bravo
When are the Cuba videos going to be released !? You have been keeping us waiting for too long!
We're hard at work! It's a massive project!
Anyone else have a pain in their foot when they were drilling into the last?😮
Take a shot every time he says "provenance"
It’s a shame he puts music over these videos. The entire thing would be perfect ASMR. Still great videos!
I’d be so nervous not to have sweaty feet
in all-leather shoes your feet are not half as sweaty. and the shoes can take it!
Custom-made shoes #kingsfootwear
Being named Johnathan Lobb? No pressure there. It is like Marvin Harrison Jr. or Lebron James Jr.
Why can’t make the last in a 3D printer? Time to modernise what should be modernised, ie without loosing the handcraft. Making a last wearing a tie ?!! Interesting…
Great watch - I have been inside this premise a couple of times - alas, only to purchase shoe cream as I can barely afford John lobb ready made shoes!
One question I’d have is, could modern technology made traditional last making redundant? Couldn’t you get a more accurate shoe and quicker process by using some sort of 3D imaging? I know it’s not the same experience but could it be done?
Haha. My first purchase at Lobb was some shoe cream as well! That and some of their shoe shine brushes, which I still have!
I don't understand why they use a wooden block for making a copy of the foot. Taking a cast from client's foot directly would be more accurate and quicker. That's how my custom orthotics were made. I was given the casts of both my feet for future reference.
From a practical perspective there are pros and cons for both methods.
Firstly using a cast is not necessarily less work, quicker or more accurate. I'd say this depends to a very large extend on the preference and experience of the craftsperson.
Once you've created the positive form from your mould you still have to build up and take away a lot of material and change the volume in different places to achieve a funcional shape to build a well fitting shoe on. The last is way more than just a simple copy of your foot! Then you have to make another cast, using the material for the final last and copy the shape you've created. And all that for both feet individually.
So a lot of mould building, pouring casts with different synthetics and pretty dirty work there. For me this whole process takes away some of that simple, focused woodworking flow that enables you to feel the material and create dynamic shapes.
Pros are that plastic won't change its shape over time, won't rot(which is also a bit of a con, i guess) and perhaps for beginners it can be an easier way to build adequate bespoke lasts and understand the anatomy of the foot.
Making lasts for orthopaedic footwear is way more complex than 'standart' last making and you follow very different guidelines. So there it makes quite a difference too.
@@klausbecker4745 Thank you very much for your detailed and enlightening explanation.
I think one of the most common misperceptions of bespoke shoemaking is that it is a SCIENCE and not an ART.
It is true that a casting or 3D scan would be a more accurate representation of the foot. But that being “better” is predicated on the assumption that the last maker is attempting to create a last that is an exact facsimile of the foot, as well. And this just isn’t the case.
The goal of the lastmaker isn’t to make foot-shaped shoes but to create beautiful, sculpted shoes that fit the feet as comfortably as possible. This is where the technical and artistic skill of a lastmaker show through. Where the human eye and artistic intuition still trump that of a computer or formula. And, most importantly, it is where experience matters.
What I find most fascinating about this craft is how these two goals - (1) creating a beautiful pair of shoes and (2) creating a well-fitting pair of shoes - are at conflict with one another. In many ways, they compete against each other, with the lastmaker serving as the final arbiter.
This is where the incredible beauty of the bespoke craft exists. That, ultimately, the product is the manifestation of an artist’s negotiation of these competing dynamics. And the fact that obsession is all over a pair of shoes, in many ways, makes it all the more magnificent.
God! Who is this wannabe?
Little tip... 3D can and 3D print 😅
works too. it's not lobbs style is what i caught from the video. but some very skilled lastmakers do it. still they are craftspeople and learned to do it by hand. By that you develop a very good feeling and experience! Also if you want to learn bootmaking as a beginner a block of wood and 2 or 3 rasps are a lot cheaper, more handy AND more stylish than all the gear you'd need for 3D print... maybe it can be done fully automatic, who knows... but off course traditional craft is about soul and beauty not about efficiency and sales. and i say this as a bootmaker, not a posh rich guy^^
To the best of my knowledge, nobody has yet gotten the 3D scanning and printing thing down yet.
I'm sorry, but I have to put my honesty forward this time -
This was a mistake, Kirby.
How so?
NOT, repeat NOT, to be confused with John Lobb ready to wear shoes. They are just mass produced factory made shoes; over priced rubbish owned by the fashion clothing retailers Hermes in Paris.
YES! This has been filmed with the ORIGINAL John Lobb. Many do not realize that "John Lobb" (aka. johnlobb.com) is owned by Hermes. In the late 1980's they bought the rights to Lobb's French workshop, which apparently included a (deceptively) favorable licensing agreement for RTW.
John Lobb - the John Lobb run by the original family - is located at No. 9 St. James's Street in London. There, the fifth generation of family members - Jonathan, William, and Nicholas - quietly go about carrying on their family's rich tradition of making some of the best bespoke shoes in the world!
It has been a tremendous honor to have been allowed to document the complete construction of a pair of bespoke shoes from, arguably, the world's most famous and prestigious bespoke shoemaker has been, to say the least, a tremendous honor!
Why not make a silicone mould of the foot, that’s got to be more accurate than a chap, however skilled making an accurate representation of your foot from a block of wood
From a practical perspective there are pros and cons for both methods.
Firstly using a cast is not necessarily less work, quicker or more accurate. I'd say this depends to a very large extend on the preference and experience of the craftsperson.
Once you've created the positive form from your mould you still have to build up and take away a lot of material and change the volume in different places to achieve a funcional shape to build a well fitting shoe on. The last is way more than just a simple copy of your foot! Then you have to make another cast, using the material for the final last and copy the shape you've created. And all that for both feet individually.
So a lot of mould building, pouring casts with different synthetics and pretty dirty work there. For me this whole process takes away some of that simple, focused woodworking flow that enables you to feel the material and create dynamic shapes.
Pros are that plastic won't change its shape over time, won't rot(which is also a bit of a con, i guess) and perhaps for beginners it can be an easier way to build adequate bespoke lasts and understand the anatomy of the foot.
Making lasts for orthopaedic footwear is way more complex than 'standart' last making and you follow very different guidelines. So there it makes quite a difference too.
Honestly john lobb london pales in quality against the best modern shoemakers like templeman, daniel wegan or the japanese… they only have the history and insane prices whithout the product
I think when we’re done with this series, many will realize how incorrect this misperception is.
John Lobb has been off the beaten path for a long time now.
You are only jealous that John Lobb sales bespoke shoes.
Says somebody who likely has none of the above listed makers products. Furthermore, a lot of those people listed, used to work for John Lobb.
What do you mean by insane prices?
Just a huge expense for the rich
Seems a silly amount of work
also huge fun and passion for the bootmakers!
By commissioning a bespoke pair of shoes, one is supporting the living wages of actual people. The alternative is a cheap pair of shoes made at a sweatshop somewhere in India. It's a privilege enjoyed by few, but make no mistake, there is more social integrity in a pair of bespoke shoes than those worn by 99% of people.
By focusing on the cost of these items, one completely overlooks what makes them incredible: the humanity. Shoes, made for someone, by real people. Yes, they are expensive, but that is because real wages are paid to real people.
The alternative is an expensive pair of "fashion" shoes, where 99% of the value is taken as profits by large multi-national corporations. A place like John Lobb is still run by the family - now in it's fifth generation. Not only can they be found at No. 9 St. James's most days, but the money that a pair of shoes costs no only supports their families, but the families of countless other artisans who have dedicated their lives to craft.
@@kirbyallison let us also not forget the middle ways. in a lot of countrys you can also find footwear(especially boots) that is localy handmade with quality materials and so on, but in a way lower price range about 500-1000$. Often that is due to larger workshops, with more craftspeople working there, a range of standart lasts and designs and minus the perfection, attention to detail and the custom fit and design...
Very interesting theme but the music disturbs
Why not make a silicone mould of the foot, that’s got to be more accurate than a chap, however skilled making an accurate representation of your foot from a block of wood