A Talk with Pierre Corthay, Shoemaker Extraordinaire
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- In this exceptional episode of Sartorial Talks, Hugo welcomes Pierre Corthay, one of the most acclaimed shoemakers in the world and a man who has been awarded the title of "Master of Arts" by the French government (the highest distinction granted to an artisan in France similar to the "living treasures" in Japan).
During this rare and in-depth discussion, you will discover the incredible path of a young man, who started in 1984 as an apprentice in the French League of Craftsmen "Les Compagnons du Devoir", who then won his stripes at John Lobb Paris and Berluti before spreading his own wings by buying an obscure small bespoke shoemaking workshop in Paris near Place Vendôme at the beginning of the 1990's.
Pierre’s solo beginnings are far from uncomplicated, especially in the early years. But things change in 1992, when world famous fashion columnist Suzy Menkes steps through the door of Pierre’s tiny workshop and becomes enamored with Corthay's shoes. A few days later she publishes in the Herald Tribune, an article about a young, obscure Parisian shoemaker unknown to the general public. Moments later, the telephone of the Rue Volney workshop starts to ring, and not long after, the Sultan of Brunei places an order for 140 pairs of bespoke shoes! At the same time, the iconic Parisian House of Lanvin signs Corthay for all its bespoke orders, turning his story into fairytale material.
This is the true story of an artisan who has inspired a whole generation of young shoemakers and who has been a driving force behind the renewed interest of many gentlemen for quality shoes and for traditional craftsmanship.
This is what mastery looks like ! May your Star continue to guide you and shine even brighter.
That's very kind of you ! Thank you, Hugo
Pure pleasure to watch; listen and learn!
Many thanks James! Hugo
An odyssey once more. Listening to Hugo has something romanesque (novelistic) ; the sensation is so strong. I admire how you naturally treat language sir, pure arts.
Thank you my friend ☺️. Hugo
What an extraordinary conversation. Thank you. A real artist and a real thinker about the art.
What a wonderful, relaxed and yet riveting interview. I loved it. I'll never own a pair of Corthay shoes but I think it's good for the soul to see and hear about beautiful things. Thank you Hugo!
Thank you very much. Very encouraging for us. Hugo
I mean this in the kindest, most light-hearted way: that shirt collar could poke an eye out!
All joking aside, it's nice to see such a sartorial guest. The art of shoemaking is still alive.
Yes sir, even if these are troubled times for many artisans. But the rain will eventually stop and the sun will come back one day or another. All my best, Hugo
@Adrian Bowie16 Minutes Later: "Took roughly 20 minutes".
Boy do I love me some internet scams. Such incompetency.
Enchanting! I have always wanted a pair of Corthay, and now, even more.
Hey Justin, I saw the photo of your new studio: it looks like you'll have a great space for composing! All mu best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks Hugo! Yes, I'm really pleased with the new studio, it's a really wonderful place to work. Can't wait to show you in person someday soon.
Such a treat to hear Pierre speak! I can listen to him for hours . Thanks Hugo.
Scandale ! C'est une incitation à le regarder dans les deux langues ! :) Merci infiniment pour cette discussion d'un niveau exceptionnel. God bless you !
Un grand merci Rémi pour votre enthousiasme . Amicalement, Hugo
Pierre Corthay is a artist..i am big fan...one day Hugo..one day...i hope...JUST WALKING...one day....
THESE IS NOT NEGOTIABLE...YOURS SHOES HAS TO BE IMPECCABLE
What a FANTASTIC video - 2 persons, experts in their own professions, discussing shoes at a macro-micro level. Just OUTSTANDING!!! This is EASILY the BEST shoe event/interview/seminar EVER. Was waiting for this since the French version was released & it was well worth the wait. Thank you, Hugo. Pierre CORTHAY should henceforth be called THE SHOE MAGICIAN (coined by you) - he really is. Rgds, David
Thank you so much David for your strong words of encouragement. All my best, Hugo
Fantastic interview, It really works when you have two people sharing the same passion.
Many thanks for your encouragements. Hugo
Thanks Hugo & Pierre I had a great evening listening to you guys teaching about shoes.
With pleasure my friend! Hugo
I love hearing Mr Sartorial talk! Quality content🙌🏽
Thanks Maran! Cheers, Hugo
It would be great if you could, once this situation ( pandemic )is all over, invite someone from Japan. Maybe Yohei Fukuda or some pther tailoring or shoemaking artisan from the Land of the Rising Sun. There are great and creative people over there and it would be fascinating to hear them.
Keep safe
Yes Kruno, it will happen one day or another, when things will loosen up. Cheers, Hugo
Mr. Hugo, Mr. Corthay- thank you so much for this wonderful insight.
This video is THE representation of what passion is really about.
There were shoes right in front of us for more than an hour but all I saw and heard were discussions of one's ideas and beliefs.
Please continue this journey just the way you do, as it encourages me and the young generation to continue to learn and appreciate the sartorial world.
Thank you so much Jiseok for your wonderful message of encouragement. All my very best, Hugo
Very interesting. At first, I thought, how can they talk about shoes for over an hour? Well, I found out how. Fascinating, educational, and entertaining. Thanks, Huge and Pierre.
Thank you for doing this in English. The most beautiful shoes! I love the casual shoes too, so refreshing to see in natural materials and not the hideous mass produced plastic the market is flooded with. Personally I cannot put my feet into synthetics unless I want to cultivate some terrible foot disease!
Hugo love for shoes is fascinating. Learning from the best
Yes my friend, I'm mesmerised by shoes (and artisans)! Cheers, Hugo
I've been very busy these past few days so I wasn't able to watch this on time but I'm very happy this long weekend to have finally enjoyed this. What a wonderful interview.
Awesome interview, thank to you Hugo I own a pair of Corthay Arca and I love him
I can relate to that my friend ! Cheers, Hugo
Agree that Bespoke Footwear, Suits, are an extraordinary craft. They should be supported just the same way Heritage Peices like homes, art have been. These craftsmen and women as you say are becoming rare. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for these kind words of support. Cheers, Hugo
Incredible interview and insight into the guild system and sharing of a life story. Thank you.
You are very welcome sir! Hugo
Mr Corthay , Brilliant shirt tie, jacket combo! Non chalance at it best! My compliments
Mr Corthay's english diction is poetical and definitely sublime ; it must be the first time i hear him speak english and i am pleasantly surprised. Dear Hugo there is absolute finesse in how you depict the emotions craft and art can carry and it makes Sartorial Talks unique. I don't have anything bespoke (😉😉😉, that demands corresponding ressources) but i have taken giant steps in my sensitivity when it comes to menswear since i discovered Parisian Gentleman some years ago. Don't be embarassed if i confess you coached me alot 😁 and it's unbeleivable i have my style now. I have the duty to give to Ceasar what is his' and i would say you are an artist, it's a metaphysical thing and you don't necessarily need to be a boot maker or i don't know what for that. The best is yet to come. God bless you, Sonia and Greg.
Wow, thank you so much Antoine for such a wonderful comment. I'm delighted to know this channel has helped you. All my best, Hugo
Such a great interview! And thank you hugo for all the work you and your family put in for the art of men's style, and this interview with Corthay was so insiteful as well as informative from the man behind such a wonderful piece of art.
Merci beaucoup JR! Hugo
Fantastic interview, Hugo. Real life experiences - and the influence of chance coupled with hard work - always make the best stories.
Thank you Russ! Hugo
It's fantastic! This charming gentleman was comparing shoes and cars and just ten minutes before I was thinking exactly the same. In fact those shoes reminded me of Marcello Gandini (the most brilliant, imaginative car designer ever) masterpieces.
I'm sure Pierre will enjoy your perspective on Gandini. Cheers, Hugo
I took French as a second language. This is the first time in my life I wish I could listen to the French version, and understand it. Merci!
Give it a try Eric! Hugo
Another!!! Great to see you two back in the swing of things. Amazing as usual, and what a brilliant story, makes me want to order a pair straight away. Keep it up, can't wait for the next one.
Thank you dear Alexander. Hugo
Fantastic interview. Huge Corthay fan
I really really enjoyed this talk Hugo. I have been planning to buy a pair of arcas for a while now....just have to save up the money..... hearing Pierre's story and seeing all the samples was fantastic - thank you!
I hope you have had the chance to realize those Arcas ! Cheers to you ! Hugo
Pierre honestly sounds like he's learned English from a Scotsman. I'm Scottish and spend a decent amount of time in France, and live in Canada with French Canadian friends. Pierre for sure sounds like a Scottish person trying to speak clearly.
Also, thank you very much both of you for having the discussion in English, same as your champagne video, even though you're both Frenchmen. We all appreciate it.
Haha, a Scottish accent? I never would have thought that. Anyway we do our best to produce English speaking content, even when we are two (or three) French persons. It probably sounds quite exotic to the ears of our (large) english speaking public, but I believe they appreciate the effort! Yours aye, Hugo
As with all their videos, a lovely educational gem! 🙏 Bart
Thank-you very much for this very interesting and insightful look into a shoe brand I have heard so much about.
Our pleasure Ian! Hugo
Pierre Corthay's shirt is unbelievably cool
Two giants of the sartorial field 🏑
You're very kind sir. Cheers! Hugo
Forty minutes in.... and we're looking at shoes. God bless these Frenchmen.
😂 we like to take our time and set the stage Eric! Cheers, Hugo
Totally fascinating - wow! Bravo, merci x
Merci beaucoup Tony ! Hugo
This was delightful! Greetings from Portugal.
Merci André! All the best, Hugo
Good talk with Hugo and piere courthay very knowledgeable
These conversations are entirely too short. I could listen for hours!!!
Thank you very much my friend, Hugo
The episode we’ve been waiting for!
Tell me about it ! Cheers my friend, Hugo
The french speaking community had it in french already.
@@peter7622 That's right, even if (as nothing is written not even scripted) it's not exactly the same content. Cheers, Hugo
Olga injected "dream and glamour" into the utilitarianism. Wonderful choice of words to make the point pop.
Thanks for that and cheers ! Hugo
I really enjoyed this conversation with Mr Corthay. Maybe one day I can afford a pair of his shoes. Thank you!
I hope you do Jack, you shouldn't be disappointed. Cheers ! Hugo
Quite interesting talk... Thank you for the efforts....
With joy my friend! Hugo
Now I know I am not crazy.. I love Beautifully made shoes. Thank You Gentleman.....
You're not crazy ! Hugo
Wonderful discussion...i enjoyed it 😀
Fascinating!!!
Many thanks Joseph! Hugo
Wow... Worth watching...
Yes! Merci!
Avec joie Bertrand ! Hugo
Fantasic interview!
Merci Peter! Hugo
Wow those collar points and tie are definitely different.
I have a pair and it's a stunning shoe.
Indeed Chris ! Cheers, Hugo
Properly fit shoe! That's what I thought at 44.40 min in. So, so important. I am so amazed. Frenchmen upholding the virtues of a "good and gentle man." I don't know the proper salutation?!? Bonjour!
Bonjour est parfait. Merci, Hugo
It's interesting that he's an artist. Shoes are in a way functional craft, but at his level it can border on the artistic. I can see though how he would need to make non-functional objects to fully be creative - artistic. My grandfather was a shoe maker. I spent many hours in his atelier when I was a child. Besides my father being an artist, perhaps I got my sculpture - object making inspiration from my grandfather.
Fantastic looking shoes! 👍🏻
Hard to deny that for sure ! Hugo
Great channel, thanks! Is there any equivalent for women shoes?
Corthay is legend in shoemaking.The Arca by Corthay is one of the most comfortable and most beautiful shoes in the world
I agree Abhilash, Arca is a staple in men's shoes. Cheers, Hugo
the tradition of traveling and working in germany you refer to is called "walz". traditionally a young craftsperson(from any trade) would do this right after their apprenticeship(which usually takes 3 years) and there are some rules: for instance the walz would last for at least 3 years and 1 day, you shouldn't come closer to your hometown than 50km, you must take nothing more than you can carry(so basically only your tools), no cellphone, traveling only by foot or hitchhiking, etc.... nowadays that is only if you like to do it very traditionally, but it's still relatively common. and there are more very traditional things about it, like some of the trade associations have their own secret mottos, symbols, etc....
the "costumes" you refer to are very oldschool, high quality, practical workwear traditionally made from corduroy or heavy cotton cloth and are still used a lot also on normal day to day work. But, like you said, mostly worn by carpenters, bricklayers, masons and roofers. the fabrics are coloured according to the trade. e.g. woodworking - black, stone work - white/grey/beige, metal work - blue, sewing work - red, food work - black and white. it is a very nice tradition!
But although it is declared "intangible cultural heritage" by the unesco, unfortunately it's not really an official government program, so when you meet some "wandergesellen" or "fremde" (-strangers) as they are also called you can be shure they are in love with their trade, pretty poor and pretty cool fellas! and if you have some place to stay it is nice to offer it. often they sleep outside or in barns.
Another great video! I saw another conversation on instagram with Masion Bonnet, an artist I appreciate and would like to know more about. Is the video subtitled in English?
Dear Rit, the video with the Bonnet family has been shot in French and in English.Stay tuned! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Great! Thank you for your reply. God Bless!
Have a pleasure of having 4 pairs of Corthay and i wouldn't change them with my other 16-20 pairs of other shoes.
I can relate to that my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS And do you know who i owe it to? You and your wonderful program. Thank you
You can still do that deal to buy a business. It's called (in U.S.) owner- financed. Owner is the lender to the buyer and buyer gradually pays owner back until they own it clear.
Happy to know it still exists (albeit less and less I suppose). Cheers, Hugo
Il Maestro di scarpe!
He was more "funky".. with highest praise and due respect 😀
Haha, he is unique for sure ! Hugo
This video is better than watching a movie. Informative as well as extremely entertaining! But if you wish to spend £1200 for some "pointy shoes" you might as well look at Japanese shoes directly which would be of much better quality and looks as acknowledged by the guest speaker himself or John Lobb or Edward Green and wont look as much flashy and tapering but ofcourse some customers may like it this way.
Good points but in the end, it's about balancing personal taste with quality and what one is able to afford. Cheers to you and thanks for the comment. Hugo
In your standard opening footage you are standing with an older gentleman with a mustache dressed in a dark tan suit. Do you know what type of suit he is wearing in terms of material and who makes the suit? It seems like a perfect summer suit.
Dear friend, the "older" gentleman with a moustache is Maestro Carlo Andreacchio (Sartorial A. Caraceni in Milano). He's wearing a cotton summer suit from the 1990s. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you. A similar looking suit is pictured on their website. It just has a wonderful look for a summer suit. I've really enjoyed your videos and learned a lot. Keep up the good work!
Excellent when could I order a piere courthey “ in Singapore
How can we do get a shoe from you sir if it's not a bespoke as from India people don't put money into classical traditional wear but onto brand name so if u can help me out trying out something for asian market where I can get help nd get into more over the service and educate people here in India
Dear friend, look at the work of CNES in Singapore. Excellent value. Cheers, Hugo
What are the stitches on the side of the arca derby?
Dear Alexander, I'm not sure I understand your question. But if you speak about the construction of the Arca, it is genuine Goodyear. Cheers, Hugo
Wow, "used car dealer" is an expression in French too???
Also, the English for the thing in the fireplace is very simple: fireplace grate. The kind that is just two posts are called andirons.
Thank you very much for this my friend, I just learned two new words (and we have 5 fireplaces at home!). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for providing these videos in English, as my French has gotten very rusty since I learned it in elementary school. Also, thank you for featuring my bespoke maker, Alexandru Maftei, in your book.
One can dream...
One needs to dream my friend. It's a vital need. Cheers, Hugo
Is there a possibility to make an interview with Silvano Lattanzi ? Thx 😊
We don't have a contact with them, but why not. Cheers, Hugo
140 pairs for one customer, wow
Yes Carl, but it was not what we call a "regular" customer, to say the least 😂! Cheers, Hugo
Good evening mr Jacomet
I think follow me , if i must choice five shoes in the world ...
There are alessandro from Berluti, double monk from john Lobb and finally phantomas, vandome and then arca from Pierre Corthay . Its very amazing création . Maybe i forget other shoes house i think about tlb, weston , ace marks ,bontoni, scarosso or again Stéphane jimenez but p. corthay is follow me the best of his génération . I dont you if you are agrée with me . But i can call this man ... master corthay for his many création and i forget his arca with V front .... so awsome .
Cheers
Sofian
Absolutely stellar list Sofian !! Thanks for taking the time to reply so thoroughly. Hugo
Let him talk for god sake! You kept interrupting the hell out of him
It's a discussion my friend, not an interview. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, this is a very annoying interview. You cut in too much. You should let the shoe legend Mr P Corthay to complete his sentences. We want to hear what he says and learn from him. Please be mindful of these small comments. Thank you!
Is is safe to assume that the expert shoe maker will also be an expert or very informed amateur of men's fashion. I think his tie color is way off. Anyone else?
Dear friends, seriously, is that all you take away from more than an hour of discussion with a genius of shoemaking? Off or not off, this is not the question, but I personally don't dislike his vintage 70s look (quite fun actually). Cheers, Hugo
Exotic skiing shoes
Funny I moved from sneakers into leather and I'm honestly thinking I will never go back to that world... let's not let a virus dictate how we dress, let won't a bug win the battle against elegance!!!
I understand you Mauro, once you've stepped into "real" shoes, it's difficult to go back. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo is talking way too much and not letting Pierre tell us his story.
Exotic skin shoes
I wish the arca had less of a chisel toe. I love the shoe but it’s too edgy for me. I don’t think I could pull it off. I love the monk straps but that blue shoe is awful unless you’re a pimp.
Well it's all a matter of taste my friend (thank God!). Cheers, Hugo
Hi Mr Corthay give me free Corthay please.
Hugo as a gentleman you are, you should allow to speak your guest. Ask the questions, egocentrism is not good for an anchor.
Dear Alejandro, it's not a matter of "egocentrism" as you say, it's a matter of format (which is the identity of this channel): it's not an interview, it's a talk, a discussion, an exchange and not a simple (and mechanical) interview. Believe me, the same show with only questions and answers would have an entirely different flavour. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, you give a very little credit to a person that is a genius...don't forget your opinion as aesthet matters but you are far away from understanding the skill of a master....